Photography reference
Amateur Photo Booklet Product booklet
Product booklet for Amateur Photo Booklet. 66 pages in English. Read the original PDF, download or print a copy without registration.
66 pagesEnglish2.9 MB PDF

Loading your manual…Open PDF directly
Document details
- Brand
- Various brands
- Model / document
- Amateur Photo Booklet
- Document type
- Product booklet
- Language
- English
- Pages
- 66
- File size
- 2.9 MB
- Category
- Photography reference
- Document date
- Not specified in catalog
Search available document text
Find a term, then jump to its page in the original PDF. Image-only pages may not be searchable; check the PDF for exact wording and diagrams.
Page 4 · Read text
www.orphancameras.com
INTRODUCTION.
. *
pUOTOGRAPHY offers more attractions than any
I of the Arts heretofore introduced in popular form,
for vyhile it answers fu11y the requirements of mechanical
taste, it offers constant opportunity for the exercise of
higher intellectual qualities.
The simplification of Photographic processes mad.e
within the past few years, the extensive preparation, com-
gnercially, of Gelatine Dry Plates, make the successful
pursuit of this most pleasing occupation, especially in its
application to landscape and tourists' purposes generally,
within the comprehension of any person of average
ability.
Arna'teur Photogra,phq is growing more and.
more in favor throughout the civilized world,. Formerly,
lovers of the beautiful tried to garner up the choice
views of nature by sketches with the pencil. Now they
save not only the outlines, but the detail as we1l, with
the Camera,
The love of the beautiful is innate in the human mind,
and this fact will make photography grow stil1 more, for
what can be more beautiful than a Photograph ?View original page 4Page 5 · Read text
lV. INTRODUCTION.
Photogra,phgl i,s al,rnost enti,rel'g the product
of amateur effort and experiment. Experiment and-
investip;ation of phenomena, when intelligently pursued,
are commendable and, generally fruitful of good results,
and.Photography tends rnore than any other art to stimu-
late observation of both common and uncommon things
and events.
It is not within the province of this book to go into
abstruse demonstrations of optical, chemical or mechan-
ical facts, but by the simplest known processes to d.irect
beginners in the steps necessary to success,leaving to the
final master of all crafts-experience-the d.etermination
of the measure of success.
The formule given are the simplest and best known,
and are selected with especial reference to their use by
amateurs.
' The author does not claim originality in the formule
or.processes described ; but he has experimented very
largely with many formule and with different results,
and has selected the ones given as being the simplest
and. giving the best results.
In concl,usConrhe begs to impress upon the read'er's
mind the imperative necessity for constant, earnest,
watchful attention to all details. He has d.oneall in his
power to make Photography simple and popular; the
result must remain with the amateur.
THE AUTHOR.View original page 5Page 6 · Read text
www.orphancameras.com
i
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.
T H E D A R K R O O M .
The dark room is used for unpacking the Dry plates,
placing them in the plate-Hold.ers anc1 for developing
them after exposufq
The Dark Roorn does not mean a room u,ith the
door closed and light coming in the transom, or through
cracks in the door, but one absorrrtely dark; the red light
from the Ruby Lantern is the only light used.
A Speei,al Rootn for a dark room is not necessary,
as all the operations can be performed at night in an
ordinary room, in which case the curtain should be drawn
and the gas or lamp extinguishecl, using the Ruby L,an_
tern only
An Orddnary ltoottt, can be used by day by draw-
ing the curtains and hanging some heavy opaque cloth
over the entire window, so that no light enters.
A Cornmon l)ark Cl,oset, however, is the most
practicable rn'herethe amateur has no special room for the
purpose, as a closet is so much more easily made dark.
orden artil ctea'nr,c,ness are absolutely necessary
in the Dark Room. I{ave a convenient p1ac" fo, every_View original page 6Page 7 · Read text
FF
INSTRUCTIONS.
thing, have everything in its place, and neuer use tlte
same bottle or dish for dffirent purposes. By observing
these directions you will avoid a long list of failures,
which .would otherwise be difficult to account for.
I)o not q,ll,oetsthe Hgypo to come in contact with
any other solution. After using, it, thoroughly wash the
hands before putting them in any other solution.
While it is perfectly harmless to handle, it will prove
f.atal to the other solutions. IIave a place for your Hypo
tray and another for your Developing tray; instead of
moving the trays to the light, move the light to the trays.
When not in use they should be kept in separate places,
and as a further precaution it will be we1l, when the
developing and fixing trays are similar, to mark on the + under side of each the initials of the solutions used.: as D tI on one and tI on the other.
INSTRUCTIONS.
ft i,s earnestl'g recornrnended that the beginner
become thoroughly familiar with the several parts of his
outfit before attempting photographic work.
If the Carnera be a Trdpod, Irustrurnent, set
the Camera in position on the Tripod, fit the Plate-Holder
to the Camera, attach the lens; focus o11some object and
note the difference in the image on the ground-g1ass with
the different Diaphragms in the Lens.View original page 7Page 8 · Read text
www.orphancameras.com
INSTRUCTIONS.
If i,t be a Ha,nd Carnera, examine the shutter,
operate it a few times both for instantaneous and time
exposures, fit the hold.ers in position, and it will be well
to see if the Focus Scale is correct, which you can d'o by
focusing at different d.istances,and also observe the image
on the View-Find.er.
Dtt st the ,ln si,d,,e of the Pl,ate-Holder before
putting in the Dry-Plate, as dust on the Plate will make
sma1l transparent spots in the negative and consequent
black spots in the finished photograph.
EdU the Bu'by Larnp with astral or any good kero-
sene oil, and light it. Now go into your previously
arranged. Dark Room, locking the door beltind. you to
avoid. interruption, having with you the plates and
Plate-Holder.
To Ei,AA the Pl'ate-Holdar-Carefully open the
sealed package of Dry Plates by cutting along the lower
edge of the box to al1ow the removal of the cover; take a
Plate by the edges, and by holding it so that the light is
reflected, from the Plate to the eye, you rn'ill notice one
side is bright and glossy, while the other sid.eis more or
less d.u11. The du11 side is tlne face or film sid.e,while the
glossy or glass side is tlne bach.
Place the Plates in the Holder with the face or dull
side out, so as to be next to the slide, as this is the side
which is next to the lens during the exposure and on
which the impression is made.View original page 8Page 9 · Read text
MANIPULATION OF INSTRUMI]NT.
Having placed a plate in one side of the Holder, re-
place the slide and reverse the Holder, placing a plate in
the other side in a similar manner.
Having filled your holders, be sure to replace the cover
on the box of Plates beforeyou open the door ofyour Dark
Roonz.
rt is desirable to brush the face of the plate very lightly
with a camel's Hair brush to remove any dust; be care-
fu1 not to touch the face of the plate with your fingers,
as it will be liable to show the marks in the picture.
MnNtPULATtoN oF InsTRUMENT.
Betti,ng up the Carnera-Attach the Camera
firmly to the Tripod, and open ready for use ; spread out
the legs of the Tripod, having one leg under the front of
the camera, and the three legs nearly equal distance
apart; by this mea11snone of the legs will be at the back
of the Camera, as they would. be in the way of the
operator.
Leael, the Cannera ; this you can do with the eye;
if one side of the camera be lower than the other, the
lines of the view will not correspond to the lines of the
Plate, and objects'which are upright in the view will be
taken diagonally on the plate.
Ground-Glaes-The Ground-G1ass at the back of
Camera is for focusing; the Lens forms an image on the
Ground-Glass of whatever view is before it.
www.orphancameras.comView original page 9Page 10 · Read text
www.orphancameras.com
MANIPULATION OF INSTRUMENT.
Eocusdng Cloth-To see the image on the ground-
glass perfectly, a F'ocusing Cloth is necessary to shut out
all the light possible, as you cannot focus sharp if
strong light strikes the ground-g1ass from any other
direction than through the lens. The F'ocusing Cloth
should be of some quite opaque material; the best is rub-
ber cloth or dark velvet.F Eoeusi,ng-The Camera being ready for work, cover
your head and the Camera at the same time with the
Focusing Cloth, and rn'ith one hand gather the ends of
the cloth around the bed of Camera to exclude as much
light as possible, that the image may be more distinctly
seen.
Do not try to look through tlne ground-glass, but on it,
keeping your eyes eight or ten inches from the Camera.
Move the Camera-back toward you or the front frame
with lens from you, rvhichever way the Camera may be
constructed, watching the ground-glass all the time.
You r,l'i11see the image of the view on the ground-glass
inverted, and rvhen the image is most distinct, you have
obtained the correct focus, and should clamp the Camera
at that point so that your after-manipulation will not
move it.
The nearer the Camera is to the object photographed.,
the farther the Camera-back rvil1 need to be drawn out to
get it in focus; thus it is difficult to get two objects in
perfect focus at the same time, when one is near theView original page 10Page 11 · Read text
I O MANIPULATION OF INSTRUMENT.
Camera and the other remote, though it ismuch improved
by using a smal1 diaphragm in the 1ens. The near object
is said to be in the fore-ground, while the remote object
is in the back-ground.
Tq,ke Ti,me for fuocusi,ng-It will amply repay
you ; it is quite evident that clear definition cannot be
obtained without accurate focusing.
In focusing where instantaneous pictures are to be
made with the Drop Shutter, always focus upon the point
to be occupied by the coming object, and drop the Shutter
when the object is in range. In Photographing moaing
objects the Drop Shutter is indispensable, but the author
recommends a time exposure by the Cap, for ail stationary
objects.
Ddaphra,gtns or Stops-The focus having been
obtained, insert the largest Diaphragm in the Lens and
note the result; you will observe that while less amount
of light enters the Lens, the d.etail is clearer.
Remove this Diaphragm and insert a smaller one, and.
you will observe the picture is sharper still, but more
difficult to see on account of the lessened amount of light
admitted throug!'- the 1ens.
It is evident tfien that the Photograph will be sharper
by using the smaller Diaphragms, but as a less amount
of light is adrnitted, the exposure must be lengthened. in
proportion.View original page 11Page 12 · Read text
www.orphancameras.com
MANIPULA']IION OF INSTRUMENT. I I
ft nequdres a Certai,m Atnount of Ldght to
make the picture, and it is evident that it takes longer
for the required amount to enter through a sma11than
a large aperture.
In Photographi'ng Groups or in Portraiture, it
is aclvisable to use a large Diaphragm, which will permit
of much shorter exposure, and thus avoid the blur caused,
by the movement of the sitters, rn'hich is liable to occur
in long exposures.
The proper focus ha,ai,ng been obtq,i,ned,
and the Diaphragm you have d.ecided to use is in the
Lens, place the Cap on the Irens to cover it.
Now unlatch the ground-g1ass frame and place the
Plate-Holder in position on the Camera and carefully
latch it. Some Cameras have a spring actuated ground-
g1ass,which reced.esfor the insertion of the plate holder.
The plate now occupies exactly the same position that
the ground-glass did in focusing, and it is evident that
the same view will be taken on the plate that you saw
on the ground.-g1ass. The Camera is now ready for the
exposure.
flnposu,ra-Success in obtaining a good negative
depends largely upon the proper exposure of the plate,
and care and judgment must, therefore, be used in this
opefation.
NBw, everything being ready, the proper Diaphragm
inserted and cap on end o1ftube, draw the slide of the
holder nearest tlze lens, which is always the slide to be
drawn.View original page 12Page 13 · Read text
l 2 MANIPULATION OF INSTRUMENT. Clasp the cap with the thumb and finger and draw it from the tube with a slightly spiral motion, removing it as quickly as possible and entirefu out o.1frange of lens, and, u'atch in hand, count off the seconds, replacing the cap at the end of the time allowed for the exposure; replace tlte slide in t/ze holder,. reverse the holder and expose the other plate in a similar manner. Most people, in trying to count seconds, will count much too rapidly; the author recommends, that you practice counting seconds by holding a watch before you; this is va1uab1e,for while you intend giving a stated num- ber of seconds of exposure, you rvi11not a1low fu1l time. The different sides of your plate-holders should be . , nurnbered consecutively, with Roman Capitals or figures, and exposures alzaays be made in the order of numbers. Keep a niemorandum book, and make notes of the length of exposure and other conditions 1ikel1' to affect each plate, to which you may refer during development, Length of Enposure-On the subject of length of exposure it is impossible to 1ay down any hard-and.-fast rule, or to give any directions rn'hich can be blindly fo1- lorved, as the variation in the power of light and in the character of the object to be photographed, form important factors u'hich are beyond the control of the operator. Experience alone can give the needful judgment. When that is gained, a knorn'ledge of the sensitiveness of the plate used, enables the operator to estimate his exposure with tolerable accuracy, under any conditions of light.View original page 13
Page 14 · Read text
www.orphancameras.com
MANIPULATION OF INSTRUMENT. r 3
A few suggestions, however, will perhaps be found. of use:
For a landscape view in brilliant sunlight, with smallest
Diaphragm, one to five seconds rvill suffice, while for a
dull light with sun under cloud", it will require from five
to ten seconds. With the next larger Diaphragm the
exposure will be about one-half as 1ong. If very rapid
plates are used, the above figures must be reduced one-
half.
Eron| el,eaen unti,l, two otclock is the brightest
portion of the day, the sun having more actinic power at
that time. For an early morning view or late in the
afternoon the exposure must be longer than at noon.
As a useful experiment, make three exposures on the
same view and plate as follows: after focusing and having
attached the holder to the camera, draw the slide about
one-third out, and. expose, gir,'ing, say one second; draw
the slide one-half the remaining distance, and expose
again, giving the same length of time. Now draw the
slide entirely from the holder and expose again, exactly
as before ; thus you will have three seconds for the first
part of p1ate, two seconds for the second part and one
second for the 1ast, and the development will tel1 which
time was nearest right.
It is perhaps unnecessary to state that every operation
after focusing should be conducted with care to avoid,
moving the camera 1n the slightest degree.View original page 14Page 15 · Read text
r+ HAND CAMERAS.
HAND CAMERAS.
The foregodng dnstrueti,ons are written with
especial reference to Cameras using tripod, called View-
Cameras orTripod Cameras, as distinguished from Hand-
Cameras, which are designed primarlly for using in the
hand for making instantaneous views.
Of course the same principle is used and the most of
the foregoing will apply to a Hand Camera, but as one
cannot focus while holding the Camera in the hand, this
class of Camera has a Focus Scale showing where to place
the lens for photographing at any distance.
This Focus Scale is mad.e by focusing very carefully at
difierent distances, and the proper distance marked.
As a, Hand, Carnero is used almost who11y for
instantaneous exposures, it is well to bear in mind., as
mentioned previously, that a certain arnount of light is
required to make the impression on the plate, and rn'hen
you shorten the exposure to a fraction of a second. you
will expect to make up for the brevity by enlarging the
aperture in the diaphragm.
Do not enpect to u,se u stna,ll, Di,aphragnu
for instantaneous exposures, even in strong light, and
do not attempt to make instantaneous exposures at all in
very dull light.View original page 15Page 16 · Read text
www.orphancameras.com
DEVELOPMENT. r 5
DEVELOPMENT.
Deael.oper-Nearly all manufacturers of Cameras
and. Plates have developer put up in a concentrated form,
and usually with special directions for its use.
About three ounces of Developer, when mixed, will be
sufficient for a 4 x 5 plate, while four ounces will be
required. for a S x 7 plate, though if several plates are
to be developed.at one time, a larger quantity should. be
made. Prepare the developer read.y for use, before clos-
ing the door of your dark room, using a gradaated glass
for the purpose.
Process of l)eaeloprnent-Light the Ruby l.an-
tern, after which you will enter and close the door of the
Dark Room. Remove plate No. r from the Holder and
place it in the Developing Tray, face up.
Now apply the Developer to the plate in the Tray,
taking care to cover tt at one sweep; rock the Tray
gently to keep the Der,'eloper moving in waves across the
plate.
Now watch closely. The development of an exposed.
Dry Plate is a process which cannot fail to deeply interest
the most careless person. As the fir.st faint outlines
appear, und.er the influence of the Developer, wonder
gTows into amazement at the change going on under
one's very eyes. Outlines of familiar objects come out,View original page 16Page 17 · Read text
I 6 DEVELOPMENT.
as first the mast, then the hull, then the rigging and the
cords of a great vessel colnes to us from out the dimness
of a fog.
If there were no other compensations in Photography
than the development of an exposed Plate, it wou1d. be
amply sufficient to repay all the labor, care and. taste
required to produce it.
Durq,ti,oTt of DeaeloTttn ent-The image should
begin to appear upon a properly exposed plate in tzuenty
to tlzirty seconds, but instantaneous exposures usually
require longer, and the development should be continued
unti1, upon examination of the plate before the light, the
sky or high lights seem quite b1ack, and the image begins
to fade from its bright yellow appearance. At this stage
the image call usually be dimly seen from the back of the
plate. This operation rn'ill occupy but a few minutes, if
the Plate has had fu11exposure, though for some instan-
taneous exposures it will require much longer. Do not
check the development too soon, as detail will be lost and
the negative will be void of contrast, weak and flat;
neither continue it too long, as fog and flatness will result.
It usually requires a longer time to develop instantane-
ous exposures, as they are rarely ful1y tirned, and a plate
which has not had full exposure requires longer time for
development.
As soon as the development is complete, the plate (it is
a negative now) should be well rinsed in cold water
before fixing.View original page 17Page 18 · Read text
www.orphancameras.com
rixrwc. r 7
FIXINC.
Make a saturated solution of Hypo and keep it in a
bottle ready for use and 1abel it Hypo. This should.
be done previous to development.
Take a quantity of the saturated solution of Hypo
for a fixing bath.
Place a suffi.cient amount of the Fixing Bath to cover
the plate in a second tray, and into this lay the negative,
after development .and washing; the tray should be
rocked, same as when developing; a1low the plate to
remain in the Fixing Bath at least one minute after
the opaque yellowness seen from the back has erctirery
disappeared, when it should be thoroug/zry washed in
clean water.
rt is perhaps unnecessary to say that the plate should
always be kept face or rtbt. side up, in both the Develop-
ing and F^ixing Trays.
After Eindng, the plate being no longer sensitive to
light, you may go out into the light, first being sure J/our
remaining plates are securely couered.
rt is not necessary that the whole fixing operation
should be done in the dark, but you can open the door
of the dark room as soon as the plate is once in the Hypo
bath, though it is best not to remove it to strong light
until the fixing is nearly or quite complete.View original page 18Page 19 · Read text
I 8 PRINTING.
Dspecl,al,Pa,i,nsshouldbetakentowashthenega-
tive thoroughly after fixing, so as to remove the Hypo
from the film. This is best done by holding the negative
under a tap of running water, but where this is not
readily obtained., lay the negative in a tray of clean
water and change the water many times; at least a d'ozen
times, and two dozet will be better.
Place your negative in a negative rack until th'oroughly
dried. I{eat must tzot be used in drying'
Develop any other plates you may have exposed, watch-
ing carefully the treatment required. for the different con-
ditions und.er which they were exposed"
After using the fixing bath it may be put in a separate
bottle properly labeled.,and can be used until it has grown
a dark color, when it should be thrown away, but as it
costs but 1ittle many d.iscard.it after fixing each batch of
negatives.
PRINTING.
It is evident that if a piece of paper with surface made
sensitive to light is placed und.er a negative and exposed'
to the light, the surface will und.ergo a change in exact
proportion as the negative shield.s from or exposes it to
ln"1ight. This is the principal involved. in the process
of Printing.
DC,recti,ons for Pri,nti'ng'-Place the Printing
Frarne with its springs upward. on the table. Loosen the
springs and. take out the back-board. I.ay a negative,View original page 19Page 20 · Read text
www.orphancameras.com
PRINTING. I 9
film side up, in the frame, and upon the negative place a
piece of sensitized paper, Jace dou,n, beinglareful not to
scratch the delicate film.
Now place the back-board. in position, latch carefulry
to avoid breaking the negative. Turn the frame over and
see if the paper covers the negative properly, and if any
spots appear on the grass, moisten it and rub crean and
bright with a cloth; as any spots on the glass will more
or less mar the print.
These operations may be performed in moderate light,
as the sensitized paper is not so extremely sensitive to
light as is the Dry plate.
flnarni,ne the pri,nts Oecasionallgtr to see
when they are printed. deep enough, but do ,r'ot ao this
in the strong light of the window, but step to one side
of the window where the light is more subJued.
To Dnarndn,e the pri,nts_Loosen one of the
springs of the printing frame and. raise one end of the
back-board; by bending back the paper from the nega_
tive the face of the print may be .t""n, and if not suffi-
ciently printed replace the back_board.
By loosenitrg but one end. of the back-board the paper
will fall back into exactly the same register, after raising
for examination, for it is evident it will not do to shift
the paper on the negative in the slightest degree.
when the print is complete, it may be placed in a dark
box or drawer until a number are ready for toning; they
will not change zf kept in the dark.View original page 20Page 21 · Read text
2 0 TRIMMING.
As the tendency of toning and fixing is to bleach the
prints, always print somewhat darker than you wish the
finished Photograph to appear.
Di,rect or Diffused, Lig1ht-Printing may be
efiected by the d.irect rays of the sun or in the shade'
Printing in the shade brings out strong constrasts, while
printing in the sun produces softness. A thin negative
should be printed in the shade while a d,ense one should
be printed by direct rays of the sun.
If a negative is aery thin and transparent, place one or
more folds of r,r'hite tissue paper over the front of the
printing frame, thus diffusing the light thoroughly.
If, in sun printing, the whites d.arken before the
shadows are bronzed, it is proof of a weak negative, and
the recourse is to shade Printing.
If, in shad.eprinting, shadows are ful1y printed before
d.etail in the high lights come, it is proof that sun print-
ing is needed.
TRIMMING.
The prints should be neatly trimmed before toning,
taking off the blank edges caused by the printing frame-
The Maiori,tA of Tieetss are improved by trim-
ming off a liberal margin; especially is this true of views
where some central object really comprises the picture.
The best guide for trimming is the Glass Form, as by
its use you can see where to trim to best advantage.View original page 21Page 22 · Read text
www.orphancameras.com
ARISTOTYPE PAPER. 2 T
Place the print, with face up, on a clean sheet of glass,
and on the print place the glass form. Press down firmly
on the form vyith the left hand, and with the right hand
cut along each edge of the form with a sharp knife.
An ordinary pocket-knife will answer, but a shoe-
maker's knife, which costs but a trifle, is best. The
knife should be kept well sharpened.
If it is desired to trim the print smaller than usual,
the glass form can be used equaily we1l, but, of course,
must be moved on the print.
ARISTOTYPE PAPER.
Albumen Paperrwtil the past three years was the
most popular process for printing, but now it is crowded,
almost entirely out by Aristotype Paper.
The n,arne Aristot?lpe is' a very broad one and
covers several brands of paper in the narket, all of which
are made after different formule and some are totally
different, each maker having a distinctive name, as peer-
less, So1io, Aristo, Ilo, etc.
On account of the difference noted above, it is difficult
to give specific directions which will apply to ail. For
instance, one manufacturer advises several changes of
water before toning, while another ad,vises no washing
before toning.View original page 22Page 23 · Read text
7
2 2 WASIIING.
The manufacturers of Aristotype Paper enclose rvith
each package specific instructions, which it wifl be well
to fo11ow,as these instructions are but general.
Toni,ng-Aristotype Paper can be toned. and fixed in
separate baths, or it may be toned. and fixed at the same
time by using a combined fixing and. toning bath. For
the purposes of the amateur, the combined bath will be
preferred
Formule for making toning baths for Aristotype Paper
are given by each maker, but for the ord.inary amateur,
who does not want to take the trouble to make these
solutions, it is better to purchase it ready prepared and
he will usually get better results.
WASHINC.
After toning, prints should be washed.very thoroughly
in clean water to remove every trace of Hypo.
IJnless thoroughly washed out, the Hypo will ca'usea
yellow tinge on the white portion of the picture, and
finally cause the print to fade, a very vexatious and' annoy-
ing occurrence, as well as an entirely unnecessary one.
Th,e lem,gth of ti,tne required to thoroughly wash
a batch of prints depends somewhat on how frequently
the water is changed ; the water should be changed at
least a dozen times, at intervals of from fifteen minutes
to a half hour.View original page 23From the M. Butkus archive. Original publisher and archive notices are retained.
Check the model and edition against your equipment.
PDF verified 2026-10-10.