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Amateur photo - seneca cameras Product booklet
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THE ANIATEUR,
PI{OTOGRAPHBR'S
MANI]AL
Photo€,raphy
Self TauS ht
;l !
ff,'"i i-' .."-'.{.:
Prioe 5O Gentc
Publishcd by
Seneca Carnera Mfg. Co.
LlBeraT r^.cDrPrt.DrlfT GAUrll .xlnrl. rlt TII ryor.L[
ROGEESTER. NEW YORK, U. S. A.View original page 3Page 4 · Read text
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Trrn Sror,sECA
Hxp$sunro MBTn:I€
Junt tho.Thln8.ftir lhe Seilnner as l* !.qr &FsrldJ
lf,'cll as Belnt o' Glreat EeIp io iihc Advcnoed Aorteul or dl@h ' ProfesrEloaal
Ta op*rate the -Seneca Expoeur+
Mcter it is only necessrry to turn the dirk
until the pointers or index letters indicatc
the condiltionr of lighU subject, platc, dia-
phragm siop, etc. Tlrc figuree ir, the s€@6llq
margin corresponding then indicete the affiCGd.raqi'.cocorrcct .cxposure. The meter measures 'rM.i-r*Fia_
4s/ax272in"h"t. Just fits the poclet.
Tellr whut diaphngra orstop to use UMIR Al"[ 00illHTi0NS,
- Tclls what length of time to maLe thc cxposure UIDIR Atl
00f{D[lnils.
Use eny ol thc lee<iing maker of plater or film-fast plates,
rlow plates. irochrometic plates. orthcchromatic plates, non-
halation plater. The prcper expolure is noted for all you
can't miss e picture if the exposura meter is ured. Thinl- what
that meanr !
The Seneca Erporure Meter lreats Tfff $UBJI0T, u'hich
nay include Sea Viewr, Open Landscaper(without loreground)
averagc Landscapcs (with foreground). Street Sccnes, Buildingr,
Groups, Portraits in shaCe. Indoor Por.raits end lntericrs.
1,10ffi
dull. vc_ry-d-t,l.|,.-- latensc-- -- .-suulighL bright, faint chadow cart by sua" Mffi{m Al{D ilouR"
Int fouf; stAs0ills.
Iilf nATf USfD-lt i= aH given in a {er,t'rimple trbles thar
rnf cfrild can undcntand and succersftilly operate r camera by
tt3rng:t,
Price, Foatpaid, 25 Centr
SENECACAMERA MFG:CO.
Rochester, N. Y., U. S. AView original page 4Page 7 · Read text
THE AMATEUR PIIOTOGRAPHER'S MANUAL
PRBFACE
l:-lE have issued this little book for the information of
I W I those who desire to become acquainted with the| * | processe.s of photography, from the time the plate
lHHrtf or film is exposed, thr-ough the variorrs. steps,-t6 theI itiiiiiffi | hnal_mountrng of the photograph on the card.i-=l It is obvious that the ability required to press a
button, then send a bundle of plates or film to a develop- -and ing establishment is of no high order. A person whose ac-
quaintance with photography has been limited to this childish
operation is.not an.ama.teur,.but p mere machine; he can
uever experience the absorbing interest and keen satis-
faction which the real amateur feels. He bears about the
same relation to the latter that the press feeder of a print-
ing office does_ to the cultivated artist whose skilled fihgers
have engraved the plate !
Moreover, the photographer whose knowledge has been
confined to pressing the button, can never hofe to make
good picture-s, excepting through an occasionally lucky
chance, and he can neaer know to ulrct e.rtent the boor
results he gets may be due to his own def ective knowlidse.
On the other hand, a practice in the develoDment bfpictures improves the owner's knolvledge of hij camera.
Every. picture taken reveals some new possibility, shows
some important detail with which he_can relrew his expe-
rience. He soon learns to feel that love and interest ior
his subject_yhiqh only personal effort and personal success
can give. He discovers new mysteries dailv. and learns to
understand his instrument and its possihiiiiies. His pic-
tures soon begin to show the thought and handiwork of
the artist, and he becomes a membef of the Guild of Ama-
teur Ph-otographers-a charmed circle which th,e presslhe-
bu,tton-fiend can nez)er hope to enter.
There are few branches of industry which have not in I
3 II
{
I
il)IView original page 7Page 8 · Read text
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THE AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHER'S MAI{UAL
recent years called on photography for aid. There is, tfiere.
lore, a commercial value in the knowledge of this fascinat.
ing subject which an intelligent man cann'ot afford to ignore.
M-any _recent improvement.s have been made by ama-teurs,who discovered them while learning the praitice of thti
art, and there i.s no limit to the rich possibilities, whether
of aesthetic enjoyment or of practical advancement. that
the earnest learner may himself hope to achieve.
The volume begins by-giv.ing the reader a short descrip.
tion of the essentials of photography; the cafir€fdi tia
plate holder, and the dry plates, the-film pack adaptei and
the film pack, with a word as to the lens.- He is then told
how to arrange a dark room and to Drepare the olates for
exposure. The method of using the cimera is-then ex-
plained, and important directions-are given for taking land.
scapes.
The amateur is advised to begin with landscafes, Not
only are the restdts very pleasing, but the chancei of suc-
Jess for the begirrner are greatest, aud the lack of €Ipg--of,rience is not so keenly felt in this as in other classes
work.
Following the directions for exposure in taking land-
scapes, are concise and clear suggestions and explanations
for developing, printing, toning and mounting.
Having thtrs accustonred himself to prepare ftis ohoto-
graphs, the operator will then be prepaicd- to advance to
those processes d.emanding greater knowle.dge and experi-
ence, viz.:-interiors, portraits, and flashlights. Coupled
qith the.practice,lle will..alrcady have gail"--d in prepaiing
his out-door work, he will obtain very satisfactory results-,
The book eoncludes with a number of suggestive hints
and a collection of formtrlas whose intrinsic and economic
value will at onee be recognized by practised arnateurs, and
which beginners will do welt to cir-efully note.
In conclusion, the reader is requested to remembef
that no uflnecessary directions have been given. Indeed
we are frank to adrnit that we have necessarily been unable
to treat the subject at strfficient length becauje of the lim-
ited s_pace at our disposal. We trust many of our readersmay become so interested in photographv that thev will
desire further to investigate this a6soibing subject. To
such we would recommend the excellent series of. Photo.
Il[iniature publications, and we know of no bettefliterature on photographic subjects.,View original page 8Page 10 · Read text
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THE AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPIIER'S MANUAL
of cameras, or the pneumatic shutter, which is generally
found on those of a higher grade.
These latter shutteis arJ usually adjustable to sptreds
varving from one one-hundredth part of a second to one sec-ondl aid to time exposures. All pneumatic shutters are
fitted with either iris or revolving diaphragms, generally
the former. The newest type of shutter is automatic in
its action, and does not require to be set before being
released.
The Finctef, assists the operator in properly locating
the view on the plate, and is generally attached to the
bed of the camera. Focusing Scale. If the object to be photographed be
near at hand, judge the distance as nearly- as possible and
secure the fiont io that the pointer is directly over the
feet. scale, which indicates on the figureDroDer' ^If one hundred than distant-more object is far thi
feet-bring the arrow to the point on the scale marked G,
which means "general focus." On some -focusing-scales,where there is nb G mark, 100 is its equivalent, and is used
for all objects one hundred feet or more distant.
THE LENS
Ifowever the prospective purchaser ffiay suit his fancy,
he must recognize- this as a fact : Without a good lens he
can never hope to be successful.
The exterior of a camera may prove very deceptive.
Many of the unfortunate victims of cheap cameras whose
appearance was similar to those of a high grade have dis-
covered, too late, that the lens, the soul of the camera, has
been sacrificed to other parts relatively of much less im-
portance. A customer will be best secured in this matter
by depending on the guarantee of a reputable manufacturer.
Two kinds of lenses may be necessary: One, the Rec-
tilinear, which is a double lens, best answers general
requirements, and can be obtained at moderate cost. In
confined positions, such as interiors, narrow streets, or in
photographing high buildings, this lens will not answer,because the field which it covers, about 50 degrees, is not
great enough. For such work it will be necessary to use a
Wide Angle lens, which generally has an angle of from 80
to 90 degrees..
A perfectly clean lens is essential to the best results,and it is therefore advisable occasionally to examine theView original page 10Page 11 · Read text
THE AMATEUR PIIOTOGRAPHER'S MANUAL
objective. Should it require-aery clearring, this should be done with a soft linen cloth, slightly"'moistened with alco-
Itol. The lens may be unscr-ewed' fr5m the to facil- itate the work. Both surfaces of each combination"u-eri should
be cleaned. This method is- pre{erable to using chamois.
Lenses should never be kept rn a temDerature of
unusual warmth or left exposed io the direct rays of the
sun' as this may cause the cement between the combinations
to soften or deteriorate.
THE PLATE HOLDERS
Plate holders should be strong and absolutely imper-
vious t9 light. They are cases which protect the drv plates
frorn the light- while being conveyed tb and from tlie^carn_ era to the dark room.
A number of extra plate holders, at least six, will be found convenient, as they obviate frequent changing
THE DRY PLATES
These are the prepared sensitive plates on which the
picture is taken, and which are afterward develoo"a- ittto negatives. Fo-r instantaneous work a rapid plate is-r,"..s- - sa.ry, landscapes but for and plate work i slower general-will better it will give results, as allow more latitud'e in exposure.
. .$rv reliable brand o{ dry plates may be used, but bestot all are the color-sensitive plates, known variouslv as
Orthochromatic and Isochromitic, which in combi"i,-ion
with the Ray Filter, render the color values of nature-'
THE FILM PACK ADAPTER
There is- only one adapter to be used no matter what
Seneca- Light Tight (hinge_ l1-,"t1 you havg-that is theless) Ad_apter. Th_is adapter is daintily fashionda of alum-
inum and cherry. Interchangeable- witli the plate holdeii; itrs easily loaded and manipulated and is ibsolutely lighitight.
.fHE FILM PACK , I
This is a well-known device for holdine 12 sheets"a"aof film .in a package, each - sheet being 'fo,arrarged so -that th-ey _can be successiv-ely"u,if.r-aprese.nt.agxposure. This is the best method yet d6viied I'or-;.i;;film.View original page 11Page 12 · Read text
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TIIE AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHER'S MANUAL
shourd ,n" ,1IP'3f55"fr3P,5 artinciar right,-dry other than that from the ruby lamp, strike the sensitive
plate -previous. to its development, it will be rendered unfil for photographic purposes.
The first essential, therefore, is absolute freedom from
any- light excepting the rays from the ruby lamp. A closet
witF 4 tightly fitting door (felt can be plac-ed over the edges and the keyhole) will be found to make an excellent dark
r99mr bu! as running water is desirable, though not essen-
tial the bath-room makes a very good substltute for the
dark room of the professional studio. If the room has a
window, extraordinary precautions should be taken.
- The operator is now ready to begin work. After enter- ing he should first close the <ioor an-d wait a few moments
until the eyes have become accustomed to the darkness; if any light enters it can then be readily detected and
excluded.
FILLING THE PLATE HOLDER
One of the first steps in making a photograph is to filt - the plate holder with dry plates. Enter the dark room,
close the door and dust the plate holders thoroughly with
a brush. Then light the ruby lamp, and lock the door to
avoid interruption.
Place the lamp before you, and, holding the plate by
the edges, carefully and slowly brush it withl cambl's hai-r
brush. Do not brush the plates briskly, for this will create
el,:ctrical action, and will attract dust,-which results in pin-
. holed negatives.
Hold the plate so that the rays of light from the lamp
will fall acroSs it. It will be observed- that one side ii glossy, the other dull. The dull side is the sensitive side
and should _alyays be placed outward. Having filled the holder, carefully replace the slides of the holder-and cover
the box of plates before opening the dark room door.
\ OPERATING TI{E CAMERA If a tripod -camera, or a hand camera with tripod attachment is being used, first set up the tripod and then
secure the camera to it by means of the screw-which passes
through the tripod into ihe tripod plate on the bott6m of
the camera.
See that the front of the camera comes directlv over
one leg of the tripod, and place the legs as nearly eiuidis-
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THE AMATEUR PIIOTOGRAPHER'S MANUAL
tant. as possible; this affords the operator plenty of room at
the bacll.
Care must be taken that the camera is leael, otherwisc
larallel ztertical lines zpill not be reproduced as such on the
ground glass, ercept zaith the oid of the swing bach.
By attaching a level to the camera, a true level may be
quickly and accurately obtained.
THE SWING BACK
fn certain confined situations, the operator will some- times find it impossible to include all that he desires on
the upper portion of his plate, even by taking advantage of
the rising front movement. It then becomes necessary to tilt the camera upward. It will be noted that when this
is done, the parallel vertical lines in the object appear con-
vergent on the ground glass.
This can be corrected only by the use of the swing
glass must be brouglii!".k, by means of which the giouidinto the perpendicular position. Onlv when the sround
glags. (and consequently the plate) is in a perpendicular-beposition, will converging or pylamidal effects avoided.
important that the focus be secured after adjust- - It ising the swing back, and great care must be irercisia in
lroferly dividing the focus. It is advisable, and in some
cases essential, to use the small stops in the shutter in con-nection with the swing back. w 5 !44y: .'' CHOOSING THE POINT OF VIEW
Laudscapes. Much of the success of a landscape
photograph depends upon the proper choice of the point bf
view. Before deciding upon this, look well at the-subjectas it appears Jrom all-points -available, and study carefullythe vierv as it appears on the ground glass. Remembe-r
that the photograph will show eiactly what is seen there I
therefore pay particular attention to the avoidance of anv
features that will detract from the beautv of the pictur6.
Observe especially the foreground, as this is thi most
p.rominent part of the picture, and should always be attrac-
tlve.
exercise of
log into anjudicious- Theretasteis much; thus,- opportunitythe.introductionhereofforantheold
otherwise barren and uninteresting foreground miy trans-
form the scene into a very pretty bit oI landscape photo-
graphy.
The introduction of human figures adds strength andView original page 13Page 15 · Read text
THE AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHER'S MANUAL
achromatic lenses have a curved field with the larger open-
1qss,,.and..tha! the best results are therefore seiured by dividiug the Focusi that is, by focusing, not on the center
of the plate, bLi on that part-of the ground glass lying mid- . Way between the center-and the edge. Th"is is imp"ortant,j;^,f ag it brings out the best results thaiare to be had'from i '': t given These instructions lens portfaits. not apply do to
STOPS OR DIAPHRAGMS
Jocus The correct having - - -' the fiext step decide is to stop on the to b"e been_used.obtained,'
Here the novice. mirst rely on a few simple rrrles, until
experience has taught him the opening besi suited io the subject in hand, and those at which t-he lens woit i-risi under varying conditions of lieht. It is obvious that the smaller the opening through
passes, which the light the less liglrt will ,"iit, tfi. ti;;;:; given hence time; the smaller stop, the must the longer f be the exposurg and vice versa.
For landscapes arrd.interiors a smail stop will give the
best. results;^!6 o\.12 is .a very goo{ stop-f;;-i;dr.;p;,.: work, while for a ligh-ted interior,? is noie tob ,-;tt;;i co.u.rse, in a -dimly-lighted interior, a larger stop than 64. wil! be found necessarv.
portrait work i.large stop, or even the full opening _. .,Fqr ot the lens, m'st be uscd and a short exposrlre given,btherl
wise. the subject is apt to move before the "exposure is finished.
Depth of rocus is evidenced when objects in the field of view which are close by t_h.- camera, u"d oiiti"i"t;..ii as lvell, af! appe$ sharply- defin-ed on'the ground gi"i. ii the same time. Depth-of focus is sometimei desira6le, and
often equ{{v-undesirable. The smaUer the stap iseri,Ttri
g-reater- will be the resulting dcpth of focus. When'it is desired to subordi'ate all but one or ieveral objecis ir the picture,-focus on the objects to be emphasized-;rrd expose with a large opening. . Ag instances oi this iind, portiaits
and gro.ups might be cited. . Do not get the impr&s'ion that everlzffu1ng on your negative mtrst be sharp. The best
artists of the day secure "atmosphere,, in iheir work- Iandscape as well.-as other classes-by the judici,ols use of tlre targe stops.
decided'upon-and_ adjusted stop, the close, \!.fenthe shutt.eryou. have(or- place cap the plat6. the lens) ;'-'''holde-r-in'position. camerai Moit patt.tn are laie bt-thenaView original page 15Page 16 · Read text
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TIIE AMATEUR PIIOTOGRAPIIER'S MANUAL
rvith spring-actuated ground_glass .a frame; T1d" be this if the case, simplv fo.rce.the ground_gli;;-ir;;';ui' *ougn "iv.* pl-ate to inserr the horder, aTloiling-it to spilni nJ.t carefully draw the pla.te.'hoid"i-.iii. nearest the front of the camera. As an-additionql safetu.ard against any light entering round the prate horder, i; is ;;fi*io"til'iz, tne
focusing .cloth oaer .tke boch of tirc-camera, and allow it to f1!l o1 either partiiuiaily side,'urebeing oiti..t ilr" -#";--;;;;;..at.iut-io side.from which irife- h;; ''di"l' ur" required exposure, and carefuiiy r.jta.. the slide. *iti, il.," reverse side outrvard. The ot6er- ptute-- in tni t 6ta.i'-uynow be exposed *uy. in the ."-.
THE UNIFORM SYSTEM
, Ih.g diaph.ragms_of most shutters are graduated accord- trg to the uniform system of the photog"riphi. s".i.i"Great_pritain. The graduations-"na-irt?ii-iqi,iiJr*ii "ri"the "F" value system"are as followi:
11. 9. No. 4-F-;- 8 U. S. No. &:F._32 u. s. No. 8_F:_11.31 U. s. N;: ris_F+41.2+ p. S. No. 16-F--16 U. S. ryo. ZSO-f'+64- U. S. No. 32-F+22.62
In the Uniform System each successive smaller stop
requires twice as long an exposrlr", iinrii.o"ai^-tions, as-the ne_xt largrr, in order to ""a"iiu-"proAu.. it. ii-. ,trfton the.plate. relative values of'the .*po.rr"i i.quit"dwrtn the drtterent-The stops are therefore indicated by thegraduation.
, lxamgles: -(a). With the 16 stop, two seconds wasround to De correct exposure. Supposing that the stop i. lg be used, the proper.exposur"'wlttr"ttris tp;"; iiFtour trmes that require{ wjth the larger, this 6eing -eigi.,ithequotient of. 64 diviiled by Exposrire'requireJ: 16.
seconds.(b.) With the 32 stop, four seconds was the correct
exposure. Supposingthat the stop 8 is to be used, the cor-rect -exp-osure rrnder the same conditions would tien be rlof the first, this .being the quotient of S Oiviaid by 5i..L.xposure requrred: one second.
EXPOSURE
- Landscapes. One of the most difficult oroblems ofphotography is_to determine the propei ti-. i5i-.*porrr..It rs a,-ge-neral rule that the time of exposure must be
gol-erned by the intensity and actinism oi the light and
t2View original page 16Page 18 · Read text
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THE AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHER'S MANUAL
the optician to make a lens embracing a wide-angle that
will produce a sharp image with a large aperatuic. No
definite statement can be made as to the siZe of opening
necessary to secure good defrnition, as this depends largely I
on the nature of the subiect and whether it includes obiects q
situated in more or less separated planes.
Exposure Meters. Several devices of this class are
I offered under different names, and are of varying degrees
of conrplexity. They will be found very helpful to the .n
beginner, for whom the process of "getting experience" is
often very costly. See front inside cover for description
and price of the Seneca Exposure Metef
DEVELOPING i
Have the following articles ready 2
The Ruby Lamp,
The Developing Mixture,
The "Hypo" Solution.
The last is a solution of hyposulphite of soda, I lb. to a pint of water.
- Have trays for each of these. Each tray shorrld at all times be used exclusively for its proper solution, and be so
marked for identification that there is no possibility of con-
fttsion. If there is no running water have a large pitcher of
cgol (not very cold water, and a tub or pail for waste.
The water should be not over 70 degrees.
Having lighted the lamp and locked the door, the
worker is now re:rdy to proceed. Remember that although
plates are safe from harmful effects in dim ruby light, too
bright a light will produce fog. It is therefore advisable
to cover the developing tray with a box or covef which
can be removed when you wish to examine the negative.
Orthochrcmatic or Isochromatic Plates should be
loaded in almost total darkness, and developed by a very
feeble light.
Take the plate from the holder, and place it in the
tray film side up; now pour out sufficient developer to
cover every part of the plate at once.
Rock the tray gently, meanwhile watching the plate closely. If the exposrlre has been correctly timed, the
image should appear in from one-half to three minutes.
If the image appears immediately after applying the
developer, this shows over exposur,e, and the action of the
ll
! *,-sirrs*ii$*i.,*;:.*iig"-trlr4* ' '.'.':,. .4View original page 18Page 19 · Read text
THE AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPIIER'S MANUAL
developer should be restrained by adding a few drops of a
ten per cent. bromide of poiassium soluiion.
image _appears very slowly, with great contrast. If thebetween the high lights and shadows,-the platd has not been
sufficiently gxposed; in such a case ihe developing solution
should be diluted, or more alkali added if a-tw"o-solution
develop.er is -being used. The alkali solution is usually thej'No. 2," and generally contains sodium or potassiuni car-
bonate.
Continue the development until tke hi,gh li.ghts kazte
become aery dork. Corrcct developmerrt cainot 6e judged
b_y merely rratching for the image tb appear on the back-of
the plate, as the time for this vlries with the thickness of
the plate coating, the temperature of the solution and the
kind of developer used. The surest and safest wav is to
hold the plate between the eye and the light, and when the
image has almost or entirely disappeared, and the negative
has become so dark that the ol;siiver cannot see thiough
the high lights, the development must be stopped.
Instantaneous exposrrres usually require longer devel-
opment than time exposllres.
Now rinse the plate thoroughly with running water for
about thirty seconds, and proceed to the next operation.
FIXING
- We may repeat here the caution as to the danger ofmixing trays. Whenever the fixing solr-rtion has been pre-
pared, the photographer must thoroughly wash his hands
and be careful to allow no other chemical to touch the hypo.
A drop of hypo would ruin the developing solution.
Place the developed and washed plate, or negative, in
the hypo solution, face up. Examine it from time to time
and you will see that the white or grey color on the glass
side or back of the plate will gradually disappear. It is
advisable to leave the negative in the hypo a few minutes
after the last trace of milkiness has disappeared. It is then
safe to admit white lisht.
The sarne h1'po solution may be used for a whole batch
of plates, and, if it does not become mnddy, for more. It
is well, however, to run no risks, especially as the solution
ls lnexpenslve.
WASHING THE NEGATIVE
The negatives mnst now be thorouqhly washed to re-move all traces of the hypo. It may be done by soaking
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THE AMATEUR PIIOTOGRAPIIER'S MA1VUAL
them in dishes for one or two hotrrs, ckanging the uater abowt every.ten,minutes. A rnuch tetter way would be to
use. a washing b_o>r, such as is described on'pnc"'-ZS. l" such a box a' hour's washi'g will suffice. 'D; not usewarm water.
After washing, the negative_should be placed in a neg_ { _,, atrve rack quick. ,g verl- drl.ing If is- desired, may it 9ry. De lmmersed rnurrrtes (Drrre tew lor a grain alcoJrol ln or I 'hour, "o,wood), when dry about one-half it will in eu.n.
less. t
Do not flace the nega-tizte-neer a,window or in a dusty
(oom to.-drg, nor _force the drying by artificial heut. Th:e Iatter will cause tke gelatine fiim 1o inelt.
PRINTING
General Dlrections. place the printin g frame face
down on the table and remove the back.' ptace-tt e-"e.nt;u"
to be printed from, film .side trp in the frame, arrd on it-place 'a sheet of sensitized printing-but paper face down.
prece of . . ..Fefore replacing-the back, it is well to put in ablotting sheets or a few newspapir of ctrt the to fit ISpe{lrame. 'l his improves the contact between negative the andthe paper.
Replace the back and set the frame out to print.
If tlte..n.egative is dense the print should be made in ..Clrect sultllgllt.
. A,weah ar thin negatizte gives better results if the printis made in the shade.
Sometirnes it is desirable to make a quiclr orint from
a negative-which reallyrequires shade prinfi'g; i'this case€over the front of the fraine with orre-or mo-r" thicknessesof white tisstre -paper, depending upon the density of thenegative. Printing can thEn be done in the sun.
Prints shoutrd in all cases be examined occasionallv dur-
r1S the prgcggs of .printing, but always in a subdired"tgfrt,
Open one-half of the frarne only, and-take care not to m'u.rethe paper.
. P_rinting on "Aristo" and silver papers shotrld be con-tinued until the shaelows have a bronZed appearance and
the picture is two or three shades darker thhn is desiredin the finished photograplr.
\Vhcn finished, rernove the print and store it in a box(a dry-plate box is good), until a number have accumu-
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THE AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHER'S MANUAL
Printing in Clouds. It very often happens that agood landscape negative is lacking in cloud effects. If the-ky of your negative does not print yhite, but gives a gray
tint, it should be masked.
MASKING
Hold your negative up to the light, place a sheet of any
transparent paper over the film side, and trace on it the out-
line of the sky. Lay this paper on a sheet of black paper
the same size as the-negative, and follow the outline with a
sharp knife. Place this black mask over the sky part ofthe negative, and place it in the printing frame, printing
as usual. Now select a suitable cloud negative, which may
have been made for the purpose, and place it in the printing
frame, using the other part of the black paper to mask the
landscape pbrtion which has been already printed. Then
put in the partly printed picture and print the sky. Print
considerably darker than you wish the finished picture to
aDDear.- - In making cloud negatives use a small stop and give a
short exposure, from a fiftieth to a fifth second. IJse adeveloper weak in alkali. The Bay Tilter gives the best
cloud negatives, however.
Cut-Outs. Vcry pretty effects may be secured by tak-
ing a piece of black paper, the size of the negative, and cut-
ting in it an opening of any desired shape and size. Circles,
ovals, rectangles and other figures can be used to cut out
all but the distinctive features of a negative. Place the cut-
out between the negative and the paper in printing, and the
results will amply repay you.
FAULTY NEGATIVES; INTENSIFICATION
The print may sometimes be found to be flat, i. e.,
devoid of contrasts. This is because the negative is too thin
on account of over-exposure or under-development.
Such negatives can usually be improved by the follow-
ing---- treatment: Ft"d;-ih.r" solutions , p a''/Kq5 'ttj
L oz Bromide of no,"rlll;t Water ... t6 "
No. 2.
Bichloride of rnercury I oz.
Water 16"
No. 3.
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THE AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHER'S MANUAL
Sulphite of soda 1 oz.
Water
Soak the plate well in water and then immerse for
about five minutes in No. 1. Then pour this off, and flow
plate with No. 2, until the film is entirely whitened. Washthe plate well and immerse in No. 3 until it resumes its
natural color, then wash thoroughly, and place in rack to
ory.
Intensifying may be done immediately after fixing and
washing, or at any'later time. The deg?ee of intenlifica-
tion depends upon the length of time the negative is left
in the No. 2 solution. Unless negatives have been thor-
oughly fixed, they will turn yellow from this treatment.
OVER-DEVELOPMENT; REDUCTION
Sometimes when development is carried too far, the
resulting negative is so opaque, that even several hours are
required to print from it. In this case reduction must be
resorted to, using this formula:
No. 1.
Red prussiate of potash
Water ... 16 "
No. 2.
Hyposulphite of soda . I oz.
Water
Immerse the negatirre it the hypo solution, to every
ounce of which have been added five or six drops of No. 1.
When sufficiently reduced, remove and wash the negative
thoroughly. No. 1 is the reducing agent, and the action on
the negative depends upon the quantity used.
Very ofterr only part of the negative needs reduction,
the other parts being of the right density. In this case
soak the plate well in the hypo solution, then remove it,
and apply the red prussiate to the parts where needed, with
a small brush.
The above formulas will be found very valuable, but
donit depend, uport them to correct errors in exposure. If
the exposure is found to be at fault, make another negative
rather than resort to these artifices to remedy the first.
TRIMMING AND TONING THE PRINTS
Always trim before the prints are toned. Although the
paper is not so sensitive as the dry plate, trimming should
always be done in a weak light.
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THE AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHER'S MANUAL
Baper to remove any excess of water, and apply a coat of
mounting paste to the back. A bristle brush should be used
Ior thls prlrpose.
Adjust the print in the center of the card mount, and,
placing a piece of manila paper over the face of the print,
rgb quickly from the center towards the edges, to expel all
air bubbles.
Nezter mount prints while dry. If you do not wish to
mount them immediately after washing, allow them to Cry,
and when ready to mount place them in water until they
lie flat; then mount as usual-.
GLACE FINISH
It you do not want to mount Aristotype prints, they
1ray be given a high polish by means of a ferrotype plate. Rub them in contact with the latter under watei to avoid
air-bubbles, and then sclueegee as much as possible of the water from between plate and print. Then dry, and do not
att9mpt to peel off the print before it is bone dry. Should
prints show a tendency to stick to the plates, rub the latter
with powdered French chalk, and then dust off. The ferro-
type must always be clean.
INTERIORS
After the amateur has become in a degree successful in
taking ogt-door pictures, he naturally tuins to something
more difficult, and in interior photographv he will finrl a field for exercising his ingenuity. prolt-enis and difficulties
which had not confronted him in landscape work will atford
ample scope for experiment and originality
In almost all interior work a Wide Angle lens of relia-
ble manufacture will be found indispensabl6.
It is often necessary, on account of lack of room, to set
the camera in a hall or passage, pointing through the open
door, or perhaps on a porch, pointing the camera through . an open wlndow.
possible, do not include any windows. If, however, . If it is necessary to include a window, draw the shade and
proceed with exposure until nearly complete, then cap the
lens or close the shutter and raise the curtain, after wtrich
expose a half second more. By the use of non-halation or
"backed" plates, however, the necessity for th;s method is
obviated. An excellent method of baiking plates is given
under our "Formulas."
m
- * 3- -.-..L\ .;4..,A,- -"-.--..--.-,, .,;;.View original page 24Page 25 · Read text
TIIE AIIATEUR PHOTOGRAPIIER'S MANUAL
The exoosure varies greatly; some rooms are very wellI !!S!rt"q, while others are very climlr iiEil;; J' i ; ; ;;i, ;' ; iil ;;;,i n"'.' #;.., ;' J;ilt it; l"T'i* ff small stop. tt ii r"it.i on the t"-.rr over side of Ii!!exposure."
If the interior is very dimly lighted, an exposure of half an hour *u'y tr.--ti..".rury. This would be or -ot. alt extreme case, however.
Sclect a dull.,clou.dy, rather than a aerg bright day f.or interiors, as the iigtrt ii"mor.-r"ii"i*.
PORTRAITS
This is bv far the most difficult branch of photography; it should be-attempted ;;lt ;ii.r ha1 quar- ified himse_lf bv experi""ce iir il'.-"tti.i't..amatenrr;;;;; oiir;ru l ake portrarts out_-of-doors when possibre, a" ttre ligirt"rt. is-much better than.indootr.--b"'o por.n or in the shade of a housc give good.ligthing, r"orriing-#i"i.?t"r-
noon are the best hours for "ttaportraiti."ott-y The eipos"i"itoura
be about one-half to one se&nd, .iring a m_ediirrn-iLi.' ny
y:'_rc a targe window shade a#"ylr'tii.-r..r'.troii'o, , Japanese screen for backgrorrnd,-spreading a rug 6n the perhaps g'ou'd and placiirg..a pit-'"i oiii.r-piutit ii on" side, an interior may be i"pr.r"rrr"o.
. Pose the sitterTarcfuily,'.o"iiitv ir t" illn harmonv with the surroundi'gs, a'd to g.t th.;.ii ugrj'p#i'di.'.', '
UT INDOOR PORTRAITS 94K,: . A room having a north light is best for indoor oor_ traits, as it can be-used,u,t u'y-ii-;d;;;4"'iJrl'ii u north room is avairabre, use a west rodm in ih6'morrr- ing, and an_east'otroom in the iiLirrob".
. Nea9ry Have suilight enter the- wl'dow which vou are using. Place the sittei .o,pie oi i;;-f;;- Iir"^rii,rto*, and an equal dlstance to."orre iide, the camera b;ir.g'orr" tlr" Stlposite side. Never point the camera toward'the window. shade le enti"ty-;;J';; Let the -- -" as to actmit as much Iight as possible frorn th6 tbo.
-A white screen (a. sh_eei will do) placed about three or four from the'window iiiJ i".i"dl;, :h";,fi ile used -feet as a- reflector to equalize trre righting,ltderwi."-trr. iia" of the sitter neareit the *ira.i"--*ourd be weil lighted, while the other sid_e woulJ b; i; A".p-.h;o*" ii-o'"o, too much light on thershad-ow ,ii"-oiiire'f"i"to*- ;;ff:tView original page 25Page 26 · Read text
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THE AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHER'S MANUAL
Back Ground. For this the wall will very often
answer, but if too far away' or not desirable for any other
;;;;;;.'usi the window sh-ade spoken of before, supporting
it on a rough wooden frame made for that purpose'
Excellent shacled and clouded backgrounds for home
,rr. now offtrecl at a merely nominal pricg. By their -. and with tl-re exercise of discretion in lighting the sub- iid,
jeci, satisfactory results can be secured.
Exposure. On a bright day, when using a large -stop (8) or the full opening of the !e1s, a1 exposure of trom thiee to four seconds will probably suffice; but-.ap no two portraits are taken under exactly the same condltlon-s, lt ls
imoossible to give absolute directions I the amateur's own
experience will- be the best guide.
FLASHLIGHTS
This branch of photograpby is be.coming more and more
popular among amateurs, a-nd especially.among those who
lei tittle oppdrtunity .for f-ollowing their favorite pursuit iuring the^day. It-also allows one to make-.pictures of
friends and family among the home surroundings, which
cannot well be obtained in any other way.
Magnesium Powder to furnish light for the expos-
ure. put up in small cartridges ready for instant light-
ing, are sold by all dealers in photographic supplies.
If you have a flash lamp, use only,p,ure rnagnes.ium in it. Th6 cartridge flash compounds would explode with dis-
astrous results.
Focusing must be done by the aid of a lamp or a can-
dle. Move the light to the top, bottom, and both sides of
the group or object that you wish to photograph, so that you
can -see whether all of the desired view is included on the
ground-glass.
Place the magnesium cartridge on a tin pan or a small
shovel above the level of the camera and a littlc to one side.
Set this on some object, and do not hold it, otherwise you
are apt to be severely burned.
Always leave some light burning in the room back of
the camera during the exposure.
Do not open the shutter until just before the flash is set
off; there is a risk of fogging the negative.
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THE AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHER'S MANUAL
POINTS FOR THE AMATEUR
EXPOSURE
XPOSE to suit the da_rk portions of the picture, ignoring the balance. Nev^er attempt to take'a tim6
ptcture while holding the camera in your hand or
on yo.ur lap; the camera must be on a trrpod or something that will not jar while makirig the
exposure.
. Never point the camera toward the sun when expos- tn-g, as the source of light should be behind or to one side
of the camera. If, however, it is necessary to havi th.-."--
e.ra point towards the. sun, the difficulty may be obviated by
shading the lens with your hat or plate tiolder slide, bul
care must be taken that the angle of-the lens does not take
in the object.with which you lre shading ih. 1.";. _ If, in taking an interior, there is not"sufficient lisht to
m?.kg the objects fairly distinct on the ground-glass,-apply
a lrght coat of glycerine to the ground side; this will mak-ett more transparent.
In photographing machinery or objects that give bril-
Irant and undeslrable reflections, better results can be had_
and halation avoided-if the brightly reflecting parts are
touched with a bit of- soft putty bifoie the expo-sure. This
dulls their lustre to the Droper-poirrt.
_ When using smallef plites ihan the camera is intendedfor, mark on the ground glass the size and position which
t-he small plate will assume. If this is not done it will be
found difficult to tell whether the part of the view which is
particularly wanted will appear properly on the small plate.
DEVELOPING AND PRINTING
Always label your various solutions.
,. . .K."p your printing paper in a drawer away from theilgnt.
. ]Vh.en developer.-it has hecome too weak for ordinarydeveloping., place in a bottle labelled "Old Developert'an(l save tor over-exDosures.
A matt surface may be obtained on any glossy surface
print face down on-the sidePfler -wet ground"untilof a sh_eet^-bV Olacingof ground-glais,the rubbing and lightly lies itperfectly flat. Let it dry on the glass, when it-can be easily
removed.View original page 27Page 28 · Read text
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THE AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHER'S MANUAL
All brands of gelatine paper should be placed in a bath
or hardening soluiion for paPer, immediately af.tgr toning
and fixing, and before the final washes; tltis-wtll prevent
the paper-'from getting soft and sticky (see hardener. for -ti ttre n-egativ.es are immersed in a bath ofpaper, page 27 ).h"i'Aenins solution (see folnrula for hardening plates, qage
27), bef.o"re the finai washing,. and-immediately after. their
removal from the hypo bath, it wiU clear them and insure
them against frilling.
Do not develop plates in winter with cold d.eveloper, as An and brilliancy. detail lacking risult, will^thin negatives -your developer will greatly to added water o"f warmourr..
i" the development, and- wili give much more satisfac-ioiv"ia i.i"ttJ. In^.r--"r always-mix the deve-loper with.oit *ot"t. Often ice must be irsed to prevent frilling and
melting of the film.
SOME GENER.AL HINTS
Examine your camera and outfit- thoroughly, so as to
become perfecily acquainted with all the working parts'
Do not allow the camera or the lens to remain in the
sun when not in use.
If the carnera has a pneumatic shutter, try working it
at all the different speeds.
Before attempting any photographs set u-p th.e appara-
tus,.and go carefully and thoroughly through all the suc-
cessrve operatlons.
Dust out the inside of the camera and plate holders
occasionally, to prevent dust from settlit-lg on the plates'
When'" ieplatin,g the slid,e in the h,olde.r, do not insert
ort'io'rni, fiist, bu"t push the entire ed'ge. iy, a-t once. .Dis' itiora of th,is'esserriiol point zuilt certainly lead' to lisht'
plates. struck- use silk or cotton in cleaning the lens; linen is W.'".i
better,--- gliot.moistenedstartingwithonalcohol.a trip with the camera' see that
e""ty1tti"g is in g6od workirig order and that nothing is
forgotten.- -Bv using "backed" plates, halation will be avoided.,. and "improved a geni:rally clearnbss in -your negatives.--will be ilt""v amateurs believe the results on "backed" them for. the troul-rle of preparing their "uia.trr--pi;;; ;.*ptv l-"p"y plates thus. 5ee our f ormulas.
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