Film cameras
BLAIR Folding Hawk-Eye No 3 Models 1 and 2 User manual
User manual for BLAIR Folding Hawk-Eye No 3 Models 1 and 2. 19 pages in English. Read the original PDF, download or print a copy without registration.
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- Brand
- Blair
- Model / document
- BLAIR Folding Hawk-Eye No 3 Models 1 and 2
- Document type
- User manual
- Language
- English
- Pages
- 19
- File size
- 2.3 MB
- Category
- Film cameras
- Document date
- Not specified in catalog
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Page 1 · Read text
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PICTURE
TAKING
Vith No.3
Folding Hawk-Eye
Models Nos. 1 and 2
Publlshcd by
Blair Camera Company
Rochestcr, N. Y.View original page 1Page 2 · Read text
Model No. I
Model No. 2
No. 3 Folding Hawk-Eye
For Pictures 3% x 4%View original page 2Page 3 · Read text
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a
No. 3 Folding Hawk-Eye
Models Nos. I and 2 - For Pictures 3'/ x 4'/,
Before loading or attempting to take any pictures with
the Hawk-Eye read the following directions carefully and
become thoroughly familiar with the instrument, taking
special care to learn the construction of the shutter ; workit f or both time and instantaneous exposures, before
threading up the film.
A most important thing to be remembered is that no
white light (including gas or lamp light) should reach
the film for a fractional part of a second until it has been
developed and fixed. Therefore extreme care must be
used to keep the black paper wound tightly on the spool
so as to protect the film rvhile loading and unloading the
Hawk-Eye. It is best to select some place where the
light is not too bright to insure safety.
To Load.
Before loadlng, try the shutter a,nd see
tha,t it'works prolrerl5z. The film for the No I
Folding Hawk-Eye, Models Nos. r and z, is known as No. 3
F. P. K. cartridge, size t% x 4% , and is put up in light-proof
cartridges so that the camera can be loaded and unloaded in
daylight. It is best that the operation be performed in
subdued light, not in bright sunlight. After the seal is
broken, it must be borne in mind that care must be taken
to keep the black paper tight so no light can reach the
film.
To insure against all dangers, it is advisable to select a
place where the light is not strong, and this work should
never be performed in the glare of bright sunlight.
First, press the hidden button on the top, which will
release a spring and allow the front bed to open.View original page 3Page 4 · Read text
Venmo @mike-butkus-camera Ph. 2083 PayPal Name Lynn@butkus.org www.PayPal.me/lynnbutkusView original page 4
Page 5 · Read text
Next, push the lever to one side that projects from the
top of the interior of the Hawk-Eye, which will allow the
back cover to be removed and give access to the film
chambers.
Place the film roll in the receptacle opposite the winding
reel with the index hand on top and pointing toward the
opposite end of the Hawk-Eye. Unfisten t[e paper end,
pass this end through the slot in the opposite spool and
turn the winding key to secure.
Be careful that the end is started straight ; sl-rould oneedge bear harder on the head of the spoof than the other,
adjust it evenly in the slot and see that it is started true
upon the reel. Close the Hawk-Eye and see that every-
thing is secure.
Throughout the foregoing from the time the seal is
broken until the camera is closed, see that the black paper
is wound tightly on the spool. If the paper is allow:ed to
loosen the fllm will be fogged.
Turn the winding key slowly until the figure r appears
opposite the red window, which signifies that the iilm is in'
position for the first exposure.
SPECIAL-If your camera has a tally in the back it is
arranged for both Perforated and Cartridge film. When
using Perforated film proceed to load as follows:
The indicator and tally for registering exposures are
located on the back cover. The tally should be set upon
12. This can be done by pushing-back and forth'the
finger piece which engages the film.
Turn the winding key slowly, at the same time watch
the indicator. When the indicator registers and the tally
moves to r, it shows that the first section of film is in
position for making an exposure.
Shutter Used on Model No. I
The disc at the bottom of the shutter indicates the
opening of the iris diaphragm, according to the uniform
system. The graduated disc at tl-re top of the shutterindicates different methods of making exposures, as
desired.View original page 5Page 6 · Read text
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Opposite " T "-Time exposure of any duration isobtained by pressing the bulb to open the shutter and
pressing it again to close it.
Mike Butkus Digitally DN:email=mike@butkus.org,Date:cn=Mike2023.12.18signedButkus,by21:18:32Mikeo=ButkusButkusc=US-05'00'camera manuals, ou=butkus.org,
Bulb exposures are obtained by placing the pointer
opposite " 8," pressing the bulb, when the shutter ri:mains
open as long as pressure is applied to the bulb.
Instantaneous exposures are made by placing the pointer ttuDon-This I.tt
shutter works automatically and is alwavs set and
ready for making an exposure.
Stops or Diaphragms
The stop or diaphragm is the opening which regulates
the amount of light passing through the lens.
The opening for the lens aperture can be reduced or
enlarged in accordance with the strength of light when
maKlng an exposure.
Under ordinary conditions the 8 opening should be used.
If the light be very strong, 16. 3i and 64 are for use in amaking time exposures.
NoTE.-lf camera is fitted with single lens 16 should be I
used under ordinary conditions. If the light be strong, 32.View original page 6Page 7 · Read text
' To Focus with Film
. W\..n preparing for an exposure the lens must first be placed In tocus.
-When-Let dovi'n the front bed and pull out standard. fi.tted rvith single acnroriiatie lerrs
the standard should be clampeil when it reaches the stoo
pin located in the bed. Objects wilt then ne in ioiul ii I distance of eight feet or mor-e.
\Vhen fitted'wiilr R. R. Iens, Model No. r, the
standard should be clamped when the pointer reached ihe
rnark on the scale reprebenting the estimated numUi. oi' {_ee_!J.hat the _object to'b-e takenls from the Haw[-Eve.r$When fitted with extr:r, R,. R,. iensl'tvtbOet
l{o. ,, and extension bellows flre standard shouiI b;
drawn outpractically to the end of flre bed until the shifi screw Itead.engages detent. After clamping -uniilstandard, the tocus is adjusted by rack and pinion the poi'nter
reaches the mark on the scale which represents ttre isti-
mated number of feet the object is from the Hawk-Eye.
To Focus with Glass Plates
When using the plate attachmcnt with Hawk-Eve fitted
with single or R. R. lens the standard should be ilamoed
seventeen tlrirty-seconds of an inch farther back thanwhen using film. An extra scale is furnished with each
attachment which should be attached to the bed. When
gsilg.plate.attacl-rment with Hawk-Eye fitted with extra
R. R. lens (Model No. z) and extension bellows no extra
scale is required, and when focusing for glass plates the
standard should be cl.4mped at the marli upon the bed
plate marked " plates," when focusing can be done in the
same manner as with film.
Instantaneous Exposures or Snap Shots
Never use diarphragm srnaller tha,n 16.
LTsua,lly No. 8 _is lrreferable especially forphort rang'e pictures. Instantaneous exposures,
better known as ",snap shot:r', are usually made with
the camera held in the hand. The light flreiefore should
5View original page 7Page 8 · Read text
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be bright sunshine and exposures made from about three
hours after sunrise to three hours before sunset. Earlier
or later than these hours tinte exposures should be made.
See " Time Exposures in Open Air," page 7.
Ahvays photograph from the sun, never toward it ; that
is, tl-re sun should come from behind the operator or-over
the shoulder, shining directly on the object to be pttolo-
graphed. If it shines into the lens the picture will be
blurred.
Do not try to photograph moving objects at- less dis-
tance than twentylfive feet, and endeavor to catch them at
an angle or coming toward the camera. In photographing -building at close range and pointing the camera up' a tall
ward, the lines in the photo will be found verv irregulrr
greater from the distance a top being account of the on as { you possible, a position obtain should camera. When
near as you can to the l-rorizontal line of the center.
The same rule applies to small objects, such as a dog,
when the camera should be lorvered to the center of the
object to be taken.
When ready for making the exposure hold the camera
firmly, and ad nearly level as possible so the picture will
be true. Locate the object in the finder by looking
squarely down into it, and release the shutter, -using care nirt to ierk the camera. This will uncover the lens afrac'
tional bart of a second, thereby making the impression
upon-Aftertl.re sensitive surface of the film. making the exposure, turn the winding key to the
right until the next number appears to view through the
red window in the back of the camera. It is a,clvisa,ble to get lnto the ha,bit of 'winding the fi.hn as soon a,s an exposure is
rna,<le,'wtrictr will a,r.oid the possibility of 1 rnaking t'wo exposures on the sarne surfaee.
Time Exposures Irf
In making time exposures some judgment must be used
as to the ten-gth of time the lens shbuld remain uncovered. Itl This is goveined by the amount of light upon the object
to be photographed and varies at different times. j
6 ,'i
U
L: llj.View original page 8Page 9 · Read text
--
The following rule should be observed : Place the camera
upon a tripod, table or some firm support where there will
be no danger of moving it during the time the exposure is
made; center the object in the finder, set the shutter on
time as described on page 4, then one pressure to open
and when sufficient time has elapsed on6 to close,-using
care, of course, not to jar the camera either in opi:ning oi
closing the shutter.
Time Exposures in Open Air
ln making time exposures out of doors the shutter can
hardly be worked too quicklv.
With sunshine-smhllest diaphragm, open and
close-as quickly as possible
lyith light clduds-smallest diaphragm, one-half
second to one second.
With hea,vy cloutls-Smallest diaphragms, two to - seconds.five
The foregoing is calculated for open air exposures ; forobjects in shadows or under porches no accurate directions
can be given, only experience can teach the proper
exposure.
_ Ngver. try t<> nra,ke a, tirne exposure-whileholding4 the eamera, in the ha,nd. B,s it isin'rpossi lrle. www.butkus.us
Time Needed for Interior Exposures
The follo_wing table is for the largest opening or dia-
phragm. When the second size is used twice as mucl'r
time should be given, and with the smallest one eight
times the time of the table:
White walls and more than one window: Bright sun outside, trvo seconds.
Hazy sun, live seconds.
Cloudy bright, ten seconds.
Cloudy dull, twenty seconds.
and one White walls onlv window : I sun Bright outside, fhree seconds.
Hazy sun, eight seconds. I Cloudy bright, fifteen seconds.
I . Cloudy dull, thirty seconds,
7 I
AView original page 9Page 10 · Read text
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Medium colored walls and hangings and more than one
window:
Bright sun outside, four seconds.
Hary sun, ten seconds,
Cloudy bright, twenty seconds.
Cloudy dull, forty seconds.
Medium colored walls and hangings and only one
window:
Bright sun outside, six seconds,
Hazy sun, fifteen seconds.
CIoudy bright, thirty seconds.
Cloudy dull, sixty seconds.
Dark colored walls and hangings and more ttlan one
window: Bright sun outside, ten seconds. I
Hazy sun, twenty seconds.
Ctoudy t'right. fbrty secorrds. CIoudy dull, one minute, twenty seconds. I
Dark colored walis and hangings and only one window:
Bright sun outside, twenty seconds.
Hazy sun, forty seconds.
Cloudy bright, eighty seconds.
Cloudy dull, two minutes, forty seconds.
The foregoing is calculated for rooms whose windorvs
get the direct liglrt frorn the sky and for hours from three
hours after sunrise until three hours before sunset.
Flash Light Exposures
In making flash light exposures with this Hawk'Eye it
is not necessary to even procure a flash lamp or any appa-
ratus, as the Hub Flash Light Powder isall that is required
and is supplied for twenty-five cents per box, each box
containing material for seven exposures.
Many interiors can be photographed by this process
that would be found very difficult during the day owing
to the lack of light, or windows so located that it is impos- 1
sible to darken them sufficiently. The camera should be 'placed on a tripod, table or some other secure supporl
Locate the object in the finder and place the powder, .fl
removing it from the box, on a small tin or saucer about
three feet to one side and back of the camera so that the
flash will not strike the lens, which would ruin the picture.
When everything is in readiness open the shutter the
8
rl iView original page 10Page 11 · Read text
saine as when making time exposures, using a large dia-
phragm. lnsert one end of the fuse provided, into the
powder and ignite the other end. A reflector should be
placed behind the powder so as to throw the light on to
the subject which is to be photographed. As the fuse
burns there will be a bright flash, which serves to make
the impression. Then close the shutter and wind the film
until the next number appears to view through the red
window.
When making flash lights one box will be found suffici-
ent quantity in all rooms of ordinary size, but in making
exposures where the object is at a greater distance than
fifteen feet a double quantity will be required.
Removing the Film
The danger of light reaching the sensitive surface of the
film when unloading is the same as at the loading, and to
insure against any possibility of fogging the edges, it had
best be done in a subducd light.
When No. rz has been exposed, continue to turn the
winding key until the black paper leaves the supply spool
and is all wound on to the winding spool. This you can
tell as the spool will turn very much easier after the paper
has left the supply spool.
Next, open i6e-cainera, the same as when loading and
take hold of the end of the black paper with thumb and
finger of the left hand, turning the winding key to the
right so as to draw the paper evenly down around the
spool. Use the sticker furnished with each spool for
fastening the end of this paper. After this is done, tl.re
spool may be taken out by pushing down on the bottom
flange, which will allow it to be released from its position.
The empty spool should then be adjusted in position for
winding the next film.
After all the exposures have been made and the film
removed, the negatives must next be made and the pictures
finished.
We recommend that the amateur do the work complete
as !t will be found very interesting and the process is very
simple.View original page 11Page 12 · Read text
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Developing the Film
Secure a room or closet in which no rvhite lightcan enter.
It is imperative that not the least ray should enter, for
should the sensitive surface of the film be lishted for a
fraction of a second it.vould be completely ruintd. Light
the ruby lantern, which produces a subdu6d light thatriill
not injure the film, unless held very closely.
Arrange two trays in a position where they can be
easily found and pour enough developer in one tray so that it will flow over the film. Place the fixing b:rth in
the_othertray, composed of 4 oz. Water and q oZ. Hypo. Unroll the-filnr slowly, being very careful nirt to t<iuch
the enrulsion or coated side, and cut with shears as
designated by the figures 6n the back. Immerse a section of the film in the developer, dull side down,
and be careful that the developer covers the film entirely. When first placed in the tray it will have a
tendency to curl slightly, but as soon as wet thoroughly
will lie flat beneatl-r the surface of the solution.
We recommend soaking the film in clear waterfor about
three minutes, which will prevent any curling when im-
mersed in the developer.
Rock the tray gently, which will prevent air bubbles and
also allow the development to continue evenly ; dark spots
will soon appear whiih are termed "the lighis'" and sbon
the objects will be discernible. The progress of develop-
ment can be ascertained by removing the negative occa-
sionally from the developer and holding it in range of the
rubv lisht.
Wfrei sufficient density has been attained, wash the
negative thoroughly in water and place in the Hypo-usuallybath until the light appearance has disappeared; this
requires about 5 or ro minutes, then remove and wash
thoroughly in clear, cold water, with at least 5 or 6 changes.
This is very important, as all traces of the Hypo musf be
removed or the stains willappear after drying and ruin the
negative. After washing, place the negative for about five
minutes in a soaking solution composed of I oz. Glycer- ine to 20 oz. Water. Remove and pin to a flat surface by
the four corners with emulsion or dull side out, with nb t I
IO 1,
,1vt
IrView original page 12Page 13 · Read text
further washing, to dry. When using non-curling film see
directions for handling same.
By following the foregoing directions, good results
should be obtained.
Use all cold solutions. Employ ice in extremely hot
weather.
Developing in Daylight
We recommend the Kodak Developing Machine, as the entire process can then be accomplished in daylight and
the work of developing is very much simplified.
The general results obtained by the Developing Machine
are beiter than when done in a dark room.
All films are put up with instructions how to prepare
thern for development in the Developing Machine.
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The Common Causes of Failures . Ifnder-exposrres are caused by making instantan-
eous sl'rots in the shade, indoors, early or late in the day,
or when the light is not sufficiently strong to fully impress
the object or view upon the sensitive surface of the film.
An under'exposure is easily detected in development by
the image appearing very slowly; while it is impossible to
obtain great detail, the negative can be improved by add-
ing a quantity of fresh developer.
Over-exposures are caused by too much light.
An over'timed exposure is easily detected by the plate
darkening evenly as soon as placed in the developer, with
no contra-st or d6ep shadows.' The negative can be im-
I' proved by weakening the developer with water or adding
a small quantity ten per cent. solution of Bromide of
Potassium; should the Bromide be used the developer is
ruined for other negatives, unless they are known to be
over-exposed.
Ilnder- developrnent. A n under-developed nega-
tive is very thin and full of - detaii ; the difference can readily be seen from one under-exposed.
TIView original page 13Page 14 · Read text
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An.under-develop.ed.negative can be improved to quite
an extent by intensifying asfollows: Place in a solutidn of
% oz.Bichloride oJ Mercurv.
/z- oz. Bromide of Potassium,
16 ozs. Water.
Let the negative remain until it evenlv whitens. thenwash and apply a solution of r oz. Sulphite Soda to r oz.
Water. The negative willthen darken.. when it should be
thoroughly_washed and placed to dry.
Ov_er-developrnent is caused by allowing the
negative toremain in the developer longei than it sFould.
. An over-developed negative will appeir very strong and lntense, aud requires a long time to nrint.
For reducing use the follbwins foimula: No. r. % oz. Red Prussiate of Potash.
ro ozs. Water.
No. z. % ot. Hyposulphite of Soda,
ro ozs. Water.
Mix Nos. r and z, and allow the negative to remain' in
the above solution until sufficiently reduced. Wash and
place to dry.
Fogged nega,tives are caused by leakage of the
dark-room, or by holding the negative too long in therubvrubyruDy llgnt.lisht.light. ThisThisI nts caus€causescauses the film to darken soon after
-placing in the developer. Air tmbbles b6neath the film while developing or
fixing cause spots, and streaks are produced by ajloriine
apart of the material to remain uncovered in s<ime of thE
solutions.
When sending film to us for finishing pack securely and
mark as follcws :
BLAIR CAMERA Rochester, N. Y.
.. Do not neglect to put your own hame a.nd address upon
the wrapper ; also write us under separdte-you cover staiinswhat you are sending, advising if wish the filri
developed, or developed and printed. For price list of this
work, see last page.
Should you decide to do the finishing, we provide an
outfit containing all the articles needed and thc chemicals
already compounded, ready for use.
I2View original page 14Page 15 · Read text
The outfit consists of
rCandle,La.mp,_ - $.25 | 4xS Pr.inting Frame, - .25
I tT 5 ( ilass, .o5 r Glass Beaker, .rz r Stirring Rgd, - .o5
.qo 4lf 5 D^eveloping lrays, %. doz. _Developing P_orn'ders, .zj %.lb. Hypo-sulp}ite Soda, .oZ % oz. Bromide Potassium, - . ro z doz. 4 x 5 Printing Paper, .zs
z oz. Toning Solution, . ri r oz. Glvcerine, - .o\ Directions, . ro
fiz'og Price complete, gr.5o.
'Printing on Kloro and Solio Paper
Kloro and Solio Paper give prints having beautiful
war-m, brown_ lones, and which are usually mounted on cardboard and highly burnished.
Method of Printing
. Op.en the printing frame of the outfit and Iay the nega- tive back down upon the glass (the back is the shinv
side). Place_upon-this a pilce of Kloro or Solio Papei, face down. Replace the back of the frame and secure-th6
springs. The back is hinged to permit of uncovering
part of. the print at a time to inspect-it without destroyin[
its register with the negative. The operation of putiini
+ in the sensitive paper must be perforined in a sirbdueii i light, that is to say, in an ordinary room, as far as possi-
I ble from. any window. The paper not used must bd kept
I covered in its envelone.
L The printing frami:, r,vhen filled as directed, is to be laid
glass side up, in the strongest light possible (sunlight pre-
ferred), until the light, passing through the negative into
the sensitiye paper, has impressed the image sufficiently upon it. The progress of the printing can-be examined
r7 Itltl
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from time to time by removing the frame from the strong
liglrt and opening one-half oT the hinged back. keepinl
the other half fastened to hold the pa-per from'shiffini
The printing should be continued unfil the print is a litt-le
darker tint than the finished print should be. Place prints without previous washing in the following combined
toning and fixing bath :
2 ozs. Kloro or Solio Toning Solution.
4 ozs. Cold Water.
. Pour the toning solution into one of tl-re trays and immerse the prints, one after the other, in the toning bath.
Five or six prints can betoned together if they are iiept in
motion and not allowed to lie in cbntact. Turn the piints
all face down and then face up, and repeat this all thbtime
they are toning. The printj will be'gin to chanse color
almost immediately from reddish brown to reddish vellow.
then brown to purple. The change will be graduil froni
one shade to another, and the toning should be stooped
when the print reaches the shade desiied.
Six ounces of the diluted toning solution rvill tone two
dozen prints; after that a new solution should be made
the same as before.
When the pruper shade has been attained in toninE
bath, the prints should be transferred for five minutes t6
the following salt solution to stop the toning:
Salt, r oz, Water, j2 ozs.
Then transfer the prints to the wishing tray and wash
on.g..hour-in running water, or in sixteen changi:s of water.
. .Th. prints are then ready for mounting, or-they can be laid out and dried between-blotting papers.
Printing on_.Developing-Our Paper
Velox and Azo
. These. papgrs. may be safely,handled for the purpose of
placing in printin-g frame 4nddeveloping, eight io t'en feet
away from an ordinary full flame of a-rtifiiiallight, or three
gr f-oul feet away if the light is turned low. Witn Wels- bach light or daylight it ls necessary to reduce the lieht
somewhet by shading-the Iight or window with one thick-
ness oI orange post-otfice paper.
r4
LView original page 16Page 17 · Read text
Place the paper in an ordinary printing frame, in the
same manner as when using printing-out paper, having
the emulsion side of the paper toward the dull side of the
negative. After the paper is placed in theframe in perfect
contact with negative, expose by holding the frame close
to gas, lamp or incandescent light, or subdued daylight.
Artificial light is recommended in preference to daylight
because of its uniformity and being in consequence easier
to judge the proper length of time to expose.
The amount of exposure varies according to the strength
of the light. It takes about the sarne time with an ordin-
ary gas burner as an incandescent light. The Welsbach
requires about only one-half as much time as the ordinary
gas burner and kerosene light of ordinary size about three
times as much as an ordinary gas burner. If daylight is
used the window should be covered with post-office paper
in which a sub-window about one foot square for making
the exposure may be made. Cover this sub-window oi
opening with two or three sheets of tissue paper so as to
diffuse the light, then have a piece of black-cloth or post-
otfice paper to put over the opening when the whitelieht
is not wanted for making exposure. The printing frame
should be kept from one to two feet away from the open-
ing covered with tissue paper when making an exposure.
The time necesmry for exposing is regulated by the
density of negative and strengftr of [gnt. The furth6r the
negative is from the source of light at the time of exposure-expos- the weaker the light, hence, to secure uniformity in
ure it is desirable always to make the exposure at a given
distance from the light used. With a negative of me-dium
density exposed one foot from an orCinary gas burner
about two minutes exposure is required.
Th. temperat-ure of the developer should be 65o and 7oo -Fah_renheit, and the propcr developer to use is the one put
yp by the company who manufactures the paper, as the
best results will always be obtained when usirig their
i developers, as substitutes very often are not propoitioned
I correctly and naturally the prints do not turn-out as thev
sho.uld. Always follow closely the directions as giveir
with the developer.
l r5
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To Develop
Immerse the paper in the developer, using care that it
flows evenlv over the surface and leaves no air bells.
Tire image 3hould appear in about eight or ten seconds
and when the print is developed sufficiently remove quickly
from the developer and rinse in clear water before placing
in the acid fixing bath.
The fixing bath should be in accordance with formula
given with the paper and should be kept fresh, and prints
should be kept in mntion or not allowed to lie on top of
one another whiie in this bath. After becoming thoroughly
fixed, which takes abcut ten minutes, they should- be
removed and washed for about one hour in running water,
or ten or tweive changes of clear water.
The prints should then be removed from the water and
placed on a glass, face down, and the water squeezed out
of them by placing a blotter on the back and running a
roller over the blotter, and then they may be placed
betrveen blotting paper to dry, after which they can be
trimmed and mounted.
More explicit directions are given with each kind of
paper.
Price List
No. 3 Folding Hawk-Eye, Model No. r, double R.
R. lens, not loaded, $r 5.oo
No. 3 Folding Hawk-Eye, Model No. z, extra R. R.
lens, not loaded, 22.50
No. 3 Folding Hawk-Eye, Model No. r, single lens, r3.50
Blair TransparentCartridge Film, 6 exp., V4.x+%., .v5 3( jt/+ x 1% t .7o '( '( 12
Black Sole Leather Carrying Case, with strap, r.25
Sliding Tripod, 9o
Hawk-Eye Folding Tripod, I. 6o
Developing and Printing Outfit, r.5oDeveloping only, each, - .o6Printing only, each, .o8Developing and Printing, each, .r2%
To insure best results insist arpon ha,ving
Bla,ir Transparent Ca,rtrid,ge Film.s.View original page 18From the M. Butkus archive. Original publisher and archive notices are retained.
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