C. A. Wood “Philadelphia Singer” — User manual

INSTRUCTION BOOK

                FOR THE

   HIGH ARM


 Philadelphia Singer

   SEWING MACHINE.




          MANUFAOTURED BY

  THE C A WOOD CO.


17 North 10th Street,              15 East 14th Street,

 PHILADELPHIA, PA.              NEW YORK.

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS.





    Every machine before leaving the factory has been carefully adjusted

and minutely inspected, its sewing qualities have been tested on all kinds

of work and found perfect in every respect.

    After using the machine see that it is always well cleaned before put-

ting it away.

    Before commencing to sew, be certain to oil and clean it according to

instructions.

    Do not tamper with the adjustments of the machine; serious trouble is
almost sure to result from any unnecessary meddling with the working

parts.

     Attention to the instructions here given, and a little practice, will soon

enable the learner to successfully operate the machine and attachments.

    Do not attempt to use the attachments until you can manage the ma-
chine with ease on plain sewing.

    The cause of a machine not working properly will almost invariably be

found in the improper setting of the needle, or on account of the needle
being bent a trifle; by the use of poor thread, or because the operator has
not been particular to choose the right number of needle for the size of
thread required.
   Do not neglect to carefully read all of the following instructions, or
consider it time wasted to do so, even if you are perfectly familiar with
operating the machine.
   Do not run the machine when it is threaded up, unless there is cloth
 underneath the presser foot; if you do, the thread will snarl and tangle, and
 perhaps bend or break the needle.
     If for special manufacturing or tailoring work, a throat plate with a

 larger hole is desired, it will be furnished free of charge on application.
   When ordering needles, shuttles, or parts of any kind, always give the
 plate number of machine, which will be found stamped in the iron bed un-
 derneath the front slide-plate.
    The presser foot must never be let down on the feed when the machine
 is running unless there is cloth between, as the sharp teeth of the feed
 would injure the bottom of the foot.

     Toturn a corner stop the machine without raising the needle more than
half way out of the work.Raise the presser foot and turn the work in the
 manner desired, using the needle as a pivot.

TO OIL THE MACHINE.



                       (See Figure 1, opposite page.)



    There is nothing more important to insure the satisfactory working of

 the machine than to keep it thoroughly cleaned and well oiled.
   Use nothing but the best quality of oil. Turn the machine a little as
the oil is put on, to distribute it in the bearings.Always clean the machine
 well before putting on fresh oil.
      If the oil is poor, or the machine is allowed to stand a long time with-
out using, the oil may dry out or get thick andgummy, which will cause
the machine to run very hard. When this is the case flood all the bearings
with kerosene, run the machine a few moments, and wipe perfectly dry,
then be careful to oil every bearing plentifully. This is very important; if
a place is missed the kerosene will evaporate, leaving the bearing dry.
 After oiling wipe off any superfluity, to prevent soiling the work.
    Oil daily, or as often as there is any indication of dryness.If the ma-
chine runs hard it is a sure indication that oil is needed.
   The places for oiling are indicated by the figures 1, 2, 3, &c. and the
letter O. This distinction is made to call particular attention to the most
important bearings, which are indicated by the figures. Great harm is often
done by the operator overlooking a bearing, and neglecting to oil it, hence
we emphasize the important places. No. I is the small oil hole in the back
part of the face plate, near the top. Turn the machine so that the needle-
bar is at its highest point.  Insert the spout of the oil can in this hole, put-
ting in a few drops of oil each time.  This oils the heart cam and roll. No.
"2" is left main shaft bearing.  No. "3" eccentric bearings.  No. "4" is
 right main shaft bearing. No. " 5" is for oiling the stitch block. Insert the
 spout of the oil can through the slot in the stitch index at this point, and
oil just above the screw head found there. No. "6" is presser bar lifter and
presser bar gib at the back of face plate. Do not neglect the oil hole in
the side of the loose pulley No. "y" or No. "8", which is the small hole in the
front of the face plate. Besides this, oil at the points marked "O", and by
 recollecting that every place should be carefully oiled where there is any
friction caused by one part moving on another, you will have no trouble.
A drop on the shuttle race once a day, against which the face of the shuttle
rubs, will be sufficient when the machine is in use. The needle-bar works
 in a felt packing, which absorbs and retains the oil, so that very little is re-
quired. Do not put on so much that it will run down through the needle-
 slot and soil the thread. Oil a little and often is a good motto, and be care-
 ful to keep the machine wiped clean, so that the thread or work will not be
 soiled.

Ng. 8.

                TO OIL THE STAND.

     The stand should be oiled in six places, which are indicated by the let-

ters A, B, C, D, E and F, as shown on the engraving. A and B mark the

points to center screws on each side of the wheel crank; C the upper end

and D the lower end ofpitman; E and F mark the treadle center screws.
      If, after long use, lost motion is noticed in the stand wheel or treadle,
it can be taken up on the former by loosening the lock nut on the inside
wheel center, and screwing the center in enough to take up the wear, after
which the lock nut should be screwed down again. On the treadle the
wear should be taken up equally with both centers.

TO CHANGE THE SELF-SETTING NEEDLE.
    To take the needle out, raise the needle-bar to its highest point, loosen
 the needle clamp screw by a slight turn towards you, and slip the needle
down until it is free.
    To set the needle, take it in the left hand, placing the point through
the hole in needle plate, and pass it up into the bar, and be sure you push
 it up as far as it will go, with the long groove of the needle to your left, and
 the short groove and the flattened shank to the right.



             TO THREAD THE SHUTTLE.

    Hold the shuttle in the left hand with the point towards you.Drop
the bobbin into the shuttle so that the thread in sewing will draw from the
upper side, then draw the thread into the open slot towards you, at the
same time putting a little pressure with your finger upon the end of the
bobbin so it cannot turn, the thread will be forced under the lip at the
shuttle spring; the shuttle is then threaded ready for use.





                                        F1g. 8


                    (selF-THrEADINg SHUTTLe.)

     Place the shuttle in the carrier point first and toward you, and hold the

end of the upper thread loosely by the left hand, turn the fly wheel once
around, when the two threads will have become locked and can be drawn
through the needle plate by an upward movement of the hand. Pass the
two thread ends back from you, put the slides into their places over the
shuttle, turn the fly wheel until the needle is raised to the highest point,
then put the goods under the presser foot, and drop it down. Now see
that the shuttle slides are both closed over the shuttle and the machine is
ready to commence sewing.



            TO REMOVE THE SHUTTLE.

    Draw out the front slide plate, turn the machine until the shuttle in
nearest the operator, and then carefully remove it from its carrier. Do

not try to pry it out with the point of a screw driver or anything that will

be apt to injure or bend the ahuttle spring.

TO WIND WITH THE AUTOMATIC BOBBIN WINDER.

     To place the bobbin winder in position for filling the bobbin, pull it out
 until the little pulley wheel of the winder presses against the belt. Take
 the bobbin in the left hand and the thread in the right. Place the left hand

 center of the bobbin in the little depression for it in the end of the spooler

 spindle, and by pressing to the left the spindle will move back and allow

 the head of the bobbin to enter the friction cavity or cup. As it enters this

 cavity see that the end of the thread goes with it, and that it is held in the
 cup by the pressure of the bobbin head.This will hold the thread securely
when the winder starts. Unless this is done, it will be necessary to wrap
 the thread several times around the shank of the bobbin, or else tie it, in
 order to get it started. Draw the thread in the notch at the top of the dis-

 tributing bar, then down under the notch at lower end of the distributing

bar.
     Start the balance wheel from you; this will operate the loose pulley
 and the bobbin winder. After you are through winding, swing the winder
 around where it will be out of the way of belt and stitch regulator
     NoTE.-The end of bobbin that turns in the cavity at the left should

 be oiled at every winding. The end of bobbin resting in the friction cavity

 should never be oiled, but kept dry and clean. Never over-fill the bobbin.

               THE PRESSER FOOT.
    The pressure of the foot is presumed to be right for ordinary sewing,
 but can be graduated by the presser bar screw (See P., Fig. 5, Page 10),
 turning it to the right or downward for more pressure, or to the left or up-
 ward for less pressure. For very thick or heavy goods it may be necessary
 to increase the pressure, and for the very lightest work to decrease it. If
there is not pressure enough on the goods they will not feed properly; if
 too much, thin goods will be cut.
     NoTE.-The presser foot must be set so that the needle passes midway

 between the two prongs. If the foot is set a little to one side or the other

 it is likely to push the needle out of its proper path, so that it will strike

 the needle plate or cut the upper thread.

     The presser foot is raised by the little lever at the back of the face plate,

 which is called the presser bar lifter. When turned to the left it raises the
 presser foot to its highest position. When turned to the rigbt it gives a

 medium position, which is the best for all ordinary sewing, especially for

 hemming, felling, etc.
    Avoid pushing and pulling the goods through while stitching, particu.
 tarly the latter.   This is usually the cause of needles breaking.The
 operator will grasp the goods after they have passed over the feed and pull
them with the idea of aiding the feed.If the goods stretch or slip a little
 they will be apt to carry the needle with them, that is, bend it a trifle out of
 its right position, so that it will either strike the needle plate or be drawn

 out into the shuttle race and struck by the sbuttle.

Fig. 5

            TO THREAD THE MACHINE.

    Place the spool on the spool pin A, pass the thread under the curved

point of the upper tension spring B, drawing it between the two springs

into the little notch in the center of the under spring at C. By holding back

on the thread with the right hand while drawing it between the springs with
the left, the pressure of the springs will readily be overcome.if you at-
tempt to draw the thread through the springs with one hand you will be
apt to break it.Always have the thread pass back of the tension screw D.
Next pass it under the little spring thread guide marked E on top of the
arm, then through the slot in the top of the needle bar F.Pass a loop of
the thread through the take-up staple G from the back towards you, slip-
ping the loop over the end of the take-up H, then carry the thread through
 the eye of the needle from left to right, leaving two or three inches
extended, and, lastly, with the finger slip the thread through the thread
guide on needle clamp marked I.

                 SEWING GUIDE.

    This is fastened to the bed of the machine by the thumb screw S (See

 Fig. 5,) and enables the operator to sew at a given distance from the edg.

 at the goods.
                                   (10)

TO REGULATE THE TENSION-(Lower Thread).

    For most all ordinary work this does not require changing, the stitch
being governed by the upper thread. If the shuttle thread draws easily

and smoothly, but with a firm feeling, it is probably right, and the stitch
should be perfected by the upper tension. The shuttle tension is obtained

by means of the screw near the point of the shuttle. Turn it to the right

to increase, and to the left to diminish the pressure of the thread. This

change can be accomplished without removing the shuttle from its carrier.


     TO REGULATE THE TENSION-(Upper Thread).

    Turn the tension thumb screw to the right until the thread seems to
draw through  with about the same tenacity as it did from the shuttle, for
the purpose of making a stitch alike on both sides.
     If the under thread lies straight or is not drawn sufficiently into the
goods, turn the tension screw more to the right. If such is the case with
the upper thread, turn to the left, or increase shuttle tension.
    Soft and thin goods require but little tension, bat on thick and heavy
goods the tension should be heavier.
    NOTE.-Too little tension will make looped stitches.

    Proper adjustment of the tension is one of the most important requi-

sites for neat stitching.
   Loop stitches sometimes occur from using needles too fine for the
thread; but generally from the thread feeding off too freely, which is cor-
rected by increasing the tension. If the upper thread loops, increase the
upper tension; if the lower, increase the shuttle tension.
     If you have too much tension on both threads, it will be shown by the
constant breaking of the upper thread or the gathering of the work.
     If you wish to sew with a view to ravel easily, leave the upper tension
so light that the under thread will not be drawn into the goods, but lie
straight.
    For sewing flannel or "bias"seams, use a fine stitch and as light a
tension as possible, so as to cave the thread loose enough to stand the
strain of stretching the goods.


       TO GET REQUIRED LENGTH OF STITCH.

    On the bed in front of the upright arm will be found the stitch index.

Unfasten the thumb screw (See R., Fig. 5, Page 10) by turning it slightly
to the left, then slide it to the right for longer, and to the left for a shorter
stitch, turning the thumb screw up firm, so it will not jar loose while oper.
ating the machine.
    The stitch index is marked with figures corresponding with the number
of stitches to the inch the machine will make when the thumb screw is
 set opposite.
                             11

NEEDLES AND THREAD.

    It is highly important that you should use the best quality of needles

and thread, then you will insure the satisfactory working of the machine

Cheap needles and thread are dear at any price.
    We would request our customers to buy their needles from us, then they

will get the best. Select the thread to suit the goods, then a needle suited

to both thread and goods.
    Number 4 and 5 needles are used for all ordinary family sewing. Or-
dinarily use the same sized thread above and below. A larger size can be
used in the shuttle if preferred.
    Machine sewing does not require so large a thread as hand sewing. It
is not necessary to use a coarser cotton than number 40.
    In sewing heavy thick goods increase the pressure of the presser foot,
and do not use a larger needle than the thread you have picked out re-
quires.  If the needle is unnecessarily large, or is dull, it will be difficult to
force the point into goods of a close, firm texture.
   Be certain that the needle you are using is always perfectly straight,
and if you have any doubts about it, change it for another one. The ma-
chine is adjusted so that the needle does not pass directly through the center

of the needle hole, but instead, it goes a little to the right of the center, the
object being to have the edge of the needle plate act as a guide to prevent
the needle from being bent or drawn out into the shuttle race and struck
by the shuttle. The needles have flattened shanks, and the amount of flat-
tening varies so that whether a fine or a coarse needle is used, the blade of
the needle always occupies the same position with relation to the needle
hole and shuttle.
      Cotton.    Silk.  Needles.
    300 to 500 0000          For the very finest work.
    120 to 200  000           For the finest work that ordinarily occurs.
                                  For fine underclothing, etc.    90 to 110  00       23    70 to 80
                               For unbleached coco or in en fabrics, etc.    40to 60 O&AB       45     12 to 36         6    For heavy work.
    0 to 10 D&E    7    For very heavy work.
                 8    The coarsest soft goods.
    For the convenience of the operator we have stamped on the front
 shuttle slide a scale for selecting thread and needles, which we trust will
 frequently be referred to.

            TO REMOVE THE WORK.

     Allow the needle to rest at its highest point, raise the presser foot and
with the right handpress down the tension liberator which is formed by
 an extension of the lower tension spring on the arm. This releases the
 tension on the upper thread, and with the left hand draw the goods from
 the left side backward and bring both threads over from the back between
 the discs of the thread cutter, so they will be drawn across the little knife
and cut. The thread cutter is illustrated on page 24.
                             12

THE BELT.

    The machine works the best with as loose a belt as will serve to wind
the bobbin. If too loose, disconnect the coupling and cut off from one end

say half an inch.
   To run on the belt after it has been taken off the pulley wheels to be
shortened, or to allow the head to turn back for oiling or cleaning, it is only
necessary to lay the belt in the groove of the hand wheel, and then turn the
drive wheel of the stand towards you and draw the belt across the inside
edge of the pulley rim on which there is a little finger or projection that
acts as a belt replacer. As the wheel revolves toward you this finger will
catch the belt and run it into its proper place in the groove.

               SKIPPED STITCHES.

    These are sometimes caused by the needle being too small for the
thread, or not being set up as high in the bar as it will go.  Also by the
needle being bent, or by dirt or lint collecting in the groove cut for the
needle in the face of the shuttle race.

          BREAKING THE UPPER THREAD.

    May be caused by the needle not being properly set, the machine not
threaded correctly, the upper tension too tight, the threaduneven
and the needle too small for it, the eye of the needle being too sharp, the

 presser foot attached to the machine so that the needle rubs against it, or
by a sharp place or burr being formed on the needle plate around the
needle hole, by needles being allowed to strike it.

          BREAKING THE LOWER THREAD.

     May be caused by having too much tension in the shuttle, by the bob-
bin being wound too full so that the thread at the ends slip over the bob
bin in the shuttle, or by the thread, being caught in the slide plates.  Ac-
cordingly the latter should always be kept tightly closed when operating
the machine. The bobbin should never be wound so full as to prevent its
 turning freely in the shuttle.

            TO REGULATE THE FEED.

    For ordinary work, the feed requires no change and should remain as
when received. In sewing very thick and soft spongy goods it may be
necessary to raise it a little.  This is done veryeasily with this machine
by loosening the little set screw in feed vertical lever adjustment marked
 F on cut showing the working parts of the sewing machine on Page 4, and
  sliding down a trifle, the piece thus loosened, with the effect of lowering
 one end of the horizontal lever, which of course raises the other, and with
 it the feed.  This method of adjustment prevents the feed getting out of
 level.

                              13

NARROW HEMMING.

    Remove the presser foot and insert in its place the foot hemmer.
 Raise the presser bar lifter to the right, clip off the right hand corner of the
cloth and turn up the edge about one-quarter of an inch, so as to enable it
to pass easily into the scroll of the hemmer, push it forward to the needle,
let the hemmer down and start the machine, gently holding back on the
 work to keep it smooth, and allowing the edge of the goods to pass between
 the thumb and forefinger of the right hand while it is being hemmed, keep-
                                                 The lat-
                                    If too much cloth passes in it will make a rough
insandtheclumsyode rolehem,itoruptheongoodsthe cageswill beclosecrowdedpasseoutinofitthewillhemmer.er,      It too
 little the raw edge will not be turned in.
     In hemming a curve on flannel or very elastic goods, draw gently on the
 edge being hemmed, resisting the feed slightly, and guide the work care-
 fully. The stitch may be made close to the edge, or away from it by loos-
 ening the screw at back of the attachment holder and turning it to the
 right or leit
                             14

FELLING.

    The hemmer and feller are the same. If the hemmer is attached it can
be used in place of the presser foot in running up a seam.  Sew together
two pieces of cloth with the under edge projecting between one-eighth
to one-quarter of an inch beyond the upper edge, then trim the edges if
necessary, leaving enough goods between the row of stitching
edges to fill the hemmer and turn in nicely, open the work flat, wrong-
side up, and trim the corner of the same slightly, then push the goods into
the feller until the needle is reached. Lower the feller on the feed and
start the machine. The feed will carry the seam through without assist-
ance, making a complete fell from the beginning.  There is no necessity
of touching the goods at all, but it is just as well to keep them smoothed
out nice and flat.
   The positive double feed makes its variety of work a special feature of

the machine.

                       10

HEMMING AND SEWING ON LACE. - (One Operation.)

    The hemmer and feller which accompany this machine is made with

a slot for the needle to pass through instead of a round hole as in most of

the attachments. This slot is to enable the operator to make a hem and

sew on lace at the same time. Proceed as follows: First start a narrow

 hem, and when the goods are well under control and passing smoothly into

 the hemmer, stop the machine, raise the hemmer with the presser bar lifter

to medium lift, raise the needle to its highest point, and then carefully pass

 the end of the lace through the slot in the side of the hemmer, carrying it

under the back of the hemmer and on top of the hem. Then proceed
as in ordinary hemming. Guide the lace over the front of the hemmer,
 keeping it well in the slot so that the needle will catch it every time it
 passes into the goods.


                              16

TUCKING.

    Fasten the tucker to the bed of the machine firmly by means of the

thumb screw, and be sure that the neck of the needle clamp will strike in

the hollow portion of the tucker lever nearest the end.
    Setting the tucker gauge and tucker plate at corresponding figures
will give tucks without any space between them.  Example: By setting
the gauge and plate at Fig. 2 will give you tucks one-quarter of an inch
wide without any space between.If space is required, for a one-quarter-
inch tuck loosen the adjusting screw of the tucker, retaining the gauge in
its position, and move the tucker plate as far to the left as the space desired.
    Fold the cloth for the first tuck, and place it under the creaser bar and
presser foot, with the folded edge against the guide. The creaser marks the
cloth as it passes over the creaser blade; after the first tuck is completed
fold the cloth by the mark made by the creaser and place again as before.

WIDE HEMMING.

    With each machine is furnished four plate hemmers of assorted widths.

They are called plate hemmers because they are fastened to the bed plate
of the machine with the thumb of guide screw. Select the width of hem-
mer you desire to use, and attach it to the machine as shown above. You
will readily see that it can be adjusted to the right or the left a little, so as
to stitch as close to the edge as desired.Take the cloth in both hands,
the right hand in front of the hemmer and the left behind. Insert the edge
of the goods in the scroll of the hemmer and draw it back and forth a few
 times while gradually feeding the cloth into the hemmer, so as to fill the
scroll completely. When you have the hemmer full, draw the cloth back
toward you to start the hem near the end. Let down the presser foot and
proceed as in narrow hemming.


                             18

BINDING.

    The plate binder resembles the plate hemmers, except that it has a

double scroll. First, be certain that it is firmly secured to the bed of the

machine by means of the thumb screw, and if possible, always use binding

cut on the bias seven-eighths of an inch wide. For straight binding it is
not necessary to have the materialcut on the bias, but for appearance
sake the latter is preferable. The material to be bound is placed between
the folds or scrolls of the binder, and the operator has only to keep the

edge of the goods well inside the scrolls, and the binding, so it will feed

without twisting.
    IN BINDING SCALLOPs, after binding around the curve of the scallop,

stop the machine with the needle in the goods, and then fold the elbow or the

angle of the following scallop so as to form as nearly as possible a straight

line, and then continue the binding, being particular to hold the goods be-

ing bound a little firmer than the binding, which will prevent its being

drawn.

RUFFLING OR GATHERING.
   The ruffler is fastened to the presser bar in the same manner as the
ordinary sewing fodt, and is mainly composed of a frame or foot part, lever,
blade carrier or crimper slide, and separator plate, the latter being fastened
to the frame of the ruffler by the little thumb screw seen in the illustration
underneath and on the right hand side of the lever.

    For plain or single ruffling, insert the cloth to be ruffled between the
blades and into the gauge seen on the blade carrier or crimper slide.
     If full gathers are desired, turn the adjusting screw to the left, or to
the right for scant gathers. For the latter it is always best to have the feed
regulator set so as to give a very short stitch.
    For ruffling on a band, insert the band in the ruflle gauge and under
the separator blade next to the feed, andplace the cloth for the ruffle tbr
same as for a single ruffle. This work is illustrated above.


                         20

RUFFLING BETWEEN BANDS, AS FOR MAKING APRONS.

    Place the lower band in the ruffler, having the right side of the goods

up, place the apron into the ruffler gauge, then place the top band over or

on top of the ruffler gauge and under the ruler foot. This operation will
blind stitch the band on each side of the apron.
     If you desire to edge stitch the band on each side, it is necessary to
use the shirring plate for the lower band and run the apron through the
ruffler from the right side or under the arm of the machine, then place the
top band with the edge folded, through the gauge shown on the ruffler
nearest to the needle.  For this work it is desirable to have the feed or
stitch set at Figure 12.

         RUFFLING AND SEWING IN PIPING.
      It is most convenient to do this work from the upper side. although it
can be done from the lower also by using the shirring plate. Place the
goods for the ruffle into the ruffler the same as for plain ruffling, then in-
sert the piping into the gauge nearest the ruffle gauge, drawing it through
under the foot, insert the folded edge of the band into the gauge nearest
the needle, drawing it also under the foot,You will notice that the band
and piping gauge is made adjustable to the right or left, so you may stitch
as close to the edge as desired.

                  REMARKS.

    Should the crimping blade need to be sharpened, never file or grind it
from the bottom side, but always from the top. It should be filed or
stoned on an angle, like the edge of a chisel.
   The best work can be done when the crimping blade carries the cloth
just beyond the needle, as each crimp or pleat is formed.
     If, after longuse, adjustment becomes necessary, loosen the little
screw which holds the.cam or eccentric on the lowerend of the ruffler
lever and turn the cam forward a little.

    Oil is only necessary in the two oblong slots in wbich the crimping
slide moves.

          HEMSTITCHING.
    Fold blottingpaper (or other soft paper), which can be readily torn,
until you get thickness corresponding to the opening desired in the hem-
stitching; put one of the pieces of goods under the
above, then place all under the presser foot and sew through them.  After
being sewed, both pieces will be doubled back and forth, to crease them
well exactly on the line of stitches. Then fold all four edges in the same
direction, and hold firmly while you tear out the paper. Remove the other
half of the paper and open the hemstitching one edge of each, or either
piece may be cut and passed through the hemmer, or a row of stitching can
be passed alongside the hemstitch and the double edge finished off as you
choose.

PUFFING.
    To make puffing insert the band into the gauge or slot in the separator
plate below the crimper blade, and the cloth to be puffed between the
blades the same as for a single ruffle and gather one side. Then reverse
the puffing commencing at the opposite end and let it run through a sec-
ond time.  This stitches the band on both sides the ruffle, making a hand-
some piece of puffing, as shown above. Continue until you have the num-
ber of puffs required.
   FOR SCALLOPING it requires muslin cut lengthwise of the cloth one inch

wide, then folded or doubled, leaving a strip just one-half inch in width.Insert the cloth or band you wish to sew the scalloping on, the same as for
pufhing. Set the index so as to give a long stitch, and adjust the ruffler
very full so as to form pleats. Then swing the strip from side to side,
keeping time with the machine as the scalloping is made. About eight or

Dine pleats to each scallop makes a nice size.

SHIRRING.

   To do this kind of work, first loosen the separator post screw, remov-
ing the separator frame and blade from the ruffler, and supply in its place
the shirring slide, which is that piece in the attachment set that fits into
the machine in place of the front slide plate. The shirring plate has a
gauge on it which takes the place of the separator blade.. The object of

having the shirring slide is to do away with all side obstructions so that the

operator can gather in the middle of a wide piece of goods instead of on

one edge only.
   In shirring, it is always best to run asmall tape underneath
the goods to be shirred, the same as you would a band in ordinary

ruffling. This forms a stay and greatly strengthens the work.

    The tape is run through one of the gauges in the slide and requires no
attention