Ansco No. 3 User manual

THE No. s ANSCO
  Before loading the camera it is a good plan to look' it
over carefully and. become familiar as to the uses of the
different parts. The film used in this camera contains
twelve or six exposures to the ro1l.
  T$e amateur should always bear in mind that white
hght should. never reach the sensitive surface of the film
until it has been d.eveloped and. fixed, so be very careful
and keep the black paper wound around the film to in-
sure safetY
            ro L'AD.
 To insure against all d.angers, it  is advisable to
select a place where the light is not strong, and. this
work should never be performed. in the glare of bright
sunlight.
' Access to the film chamber is obtained by releasing
a spring locaced on trr'e top of the carnera which lets
down the door. Then lift the rrinding key. This will

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allow the film chamber to be removed for the adjust-
ment of the film.
  Place the film ro11 in the receptacle opposite the wind-
ing reel with the paper unwinding from the upper side
of the ro11.
 THIS IS IMPORTANT: Be sure the fi1m is started
correctly, otherwise the sensitized film will unwind to-
wards the little red window instead, of the nurrrbers,
which will result in total faitrure. Unroll the black
paper from the UPPER SIDE, not from underneath.
  Unfasten the paper end by cutting the label on film;
pass the film around the film chamber, and attach to the
receiving spool by passing through the slot; turn the
spool until the end is secure.
  Be careful that the end is started straight; should one
edge bear harder on the head of the spool than the
cther adjust  it evenly in the slot and see that it is started
true upon the reel. Replace the fi1m chamber, then
close the camera, and see that everything is secure.
  Turn the winding key slowly, at the same time watch
the red. window in the back. When the figure No. r
registers it shows that the first section of film is in posi-
tion for making alr exposure.
         DIAPHRAGMS.
  This camera is supplied with a set of three stops or
openings for the lens aperture. This enables the opeiator
to regulate the volume of light in accordance with     cthe circumstances at the time of making exposures.
The diaphra€fms are operated by the milled-metai wheel          /1
on totr) or camera.
  - The larger op,ening should be used for making snap-shots under ordinary conditions. Should the li-ght be
very strong, the medium stop cao be used to ad-
vantage. The smaller stop is Tor use in making time
exposures when the light is such that it will not lermitsnap-shots.

SNAP-SHOTS.
  'When it has been decided as to the view or object to
be photographed, let down the front bed. and pull out
the front of the camera  till  it stops against the extreme
end of the metal guide rail clamp at this point' the,n
turn the milled- focusing head. until the pointer is
over the mark on the graduated scale representing
the estimated. number of feet that the object to be
taken is from the camera. Objects to be photo-
graphed. which are at a distance of 25 or 50 feet do
not require absolute accuracy in estimating the d-istance,
                                                          25but if ihe object to be photographed' is nearer than
feet it requires more caie. The-best rule to follow in
this case is to pace off the required. distance from the
object to be photographed. and. make your exPosure from
that spot.
  The average person's pace or step is about 3 feet, and
one can very-r"^ad.i1y d.etermine almost the exact dis-
tance if this is praciiced., or so near that the imag,e will
be perfectly sharp. See that the Diaphragm indicator
is placed. at the desired. mark.
  bo not try to photograph any object at less than six
feet away tiom ihe camera' nor moving objects at less
than twlnty-five feet from the camera' and - err-
deavor to calch them at an angle, 91com!1g toward.the         In photographing a  tall building at. close
"^-"i".range, and. pointi"glht6 camera-upward'' the lines in the
phoTo will be found'.rery irregular on accollnt of the top
feing a greater d,istance from the camera' When pos-
*itt"l yoiu should. obtain a position as near as you can to
the horizontal line of the center'
  The same rule applies to small objects, such as a -do,g'
when the camera shbuld. be lowered to the center of the
object to be taken.
                                           tozaard                                                                            it;                                neaer                     from         photograph  it*uy.                                      your side                                 or at                              -the-sun,you                       behind                  slould' be       is, ih"^ronthat                                                                                                                                                       '
and not shining upon the lens'

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ft is aduisable to get zVtlo the habit o1f zuinding'  l/re
f.lm as soon a.s an e.qbosure is ruade, zuhic/z zuil/ aztoid
the possibzlity of mahing tzuo erlbosures olt the same
surjf dce.
  Good instantaneous  pictures can be made when it is
slightly cloudy or hazy, but the best general results are
obtained when strong, bright sunlight is shining upon
the object or view, with the exception of pictures of
groups or still life subjects where softness is desired,
which may be made to better advantage in light, cloudy
weather"  If the sun is entirely obscured. instantaneous
exposures will develop more or less weak and thin, and
a short time exposure is preferable.
       TIME EXPOSURES.
  In making titne exposures some judgment must be
used. as to the length of time the lens should remain un-
covered. This is governed by the amount of light upon
the object to be photographed, and varies at difrerent
times.
 The following rule should be observed: Place the
camera upon a tripod., table or some firm support where
there will be no danger of moving it during the time the
exposure is made. Never hold the camera in the hands
when making time exposures, as it  is impossible to
obtain good results. Center the object in the finder,
pull out the small metal catch located. on top of camera
totheleftof finder; then press the buttonprojecting;
this opens the shutter; when it is d.ecided that sufficient
time has elapsed for making the exposure, press the
othor button which will close the shutter.
   It is equally as important when making time expos-
ures as rvhen making snap-shots that the light should be

shining from behind the camera, and in no way sirould
its rays shine upon the lens. When making an interior
where windows are so located. that they are included in
the picture, always draw the shade.
  The following estimate will be found of benefir to the
beginner, and. the length of time to be given is figured
on making the exposures from ro a. m. to 3 p. m'
  Light walls and more than one window:
          Bright sun                        4 seconds                           ('                       -         Dull                                     7"
          Cloudy,                                r5
           Dull,                            20       tt
  Light walls and onewindow:
           Bright sun                       6 seconds
         Dull       r'                                to        l(
           CloudY'                             18*
           Duli,                             30       t:
  Dark walls and. more than one window:
           Bright snn                          rz seconds
          Dull       rl                          20
                                                                                                                                                                       ll     .      CloudY'                                   40
           Du11,                                      60             t'
  Dark walls and. one window:
           Bright Sun                      r8 seconds
         Dull    "                          3o         r(          Cloudy,                               5u
           Dull,                             r min. 3o      ((
  Time exposures in the open air should never be made
unless the light is very weak and the sun entirely ob-
scured, the smallest stop should. be used and the shutter
can hardly be worked too quickly, and with heavy clouds
or deep shade not over four seconds at the longest.
    FLASH LIGHT EXPOSURES.
  In making flash light exposures with this camera a
flash lamp is desirable.
  p'*huS,' /)
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Many interiors can be photographed by this process
  that will be found very difficult during the day, owing
   to lack of light or windows so located. that it  is impos-
   sible to darken them sufficiently.
    The camera should be prepared. the same as for time
  exposures, placed upon some stationary support. Place
  the flash lamp to one side and back of the lens, so that
  the light will not enter it, as this would ruin the picture.
   When everything is in readiness adjust the shutter
   for a time exposure, open the shutter, then operate the
   flash lamp
   As the powder burns there will be a bright flash which
  serves to make the impression. Then press button
  again to close the shutter. Wind. the film until it shows
  that it is read.y for another exposure
      REMOVING THE FILM.
   The danger of light reaching the sensitive surface of
  the film when unloading is the same as at the loading,
  and to insure against any possibility of fogging the
.  edges, it had best be done in a subdued light.
   When the number rz has been reached. and the
  picture taken, it signifies that the last exposure has been
  made. Continue winding, giving at least rz complete
  turns with winding key. Open the camera, the same as
  when preparing to load.. then hold the thumb of the left
  hand against the roll, which prevents the paper from
  loosening; turn the winding key until all the paper is on
  the spooland fasten the end. securely with any convenient
  sticking substance or with a rubber band.  Remove
  thefilm, then take the empty spool from the opposite side
  of the camera. and transfer to the winding side, placing
  spool so that the slotted end fits snugly against the
  metal racthet wheel.

i*"

          After the exposures have been made and the film re'
        moved., the negatives must be made and' the pictures
         finished.
      We recommend. that the amateur d.o this work. as it
          will be found. very interesting and the process is very
         simple.
         'We provid.e an outfit containing all the articles needed
       and the chemicals already compounded, ready for use.
        The 4 x 5 outfit consists of
                                                                                                                  . .$ .+o        r Little Giant Ruby Lamp.                           ..
                                                                    .84       3 Developing Trays, at z8c.
                                                                         .oB          | 2 oz Tumbier Graduate.
                                                                    .3o         r 4 x 5 Printing Frame and G1ass.
           doz. Developing Powders....'                     .25          I         r pkg. Bromide Potassium                         .ro
         r lb. HyposulPhite Soda.
          t doz, Cyko Paper ............                    -  'r5
           r doz. Mantello Card. Mounts  . .                      .       ' ro
          r Paste Tube                                                 'o5
          r Pkg. Cyko DeveloPer                             'ro
      One Instruction Book                                                  . .. .  'ro
                                                                    2.54
           ,     This complete outfit in paper box, $r.5o
         DEVELOPING THE FILM.
         Secure a room or closet in which no white light can
      enter  It is imperative that not the least ray should' en-
          ter, for should. the sensitive surface of the fi1m be light-
t       ed for a fraction of a second it would be completely
        ruined.. Light the ruby lantern, which produces a sub-
          ttued.light that witl not injure the film unless held very
         close to the light.
i         Arrange two trays in a position where they can easily
        be found. and. pour enough developer in one tray so that


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it will {iow over the fiim.  Place in the other tray the
 fixing bath.
  An acid fixing bath must be used and can be pur-
 chased. at your d.ealer's all ready prepared except for
 the addition of water.
              DEVELOPING.
  Ansco Non-Curling Film may be developed either in
 the strip or cut into one or more exposure lengths.
  To develop in the strip remove the Film from the
 black paper, allowing Film to ro11 up loosely. tlold
 this roll by the end with thumb and second finger of the
 left hand, and. take hold of the free end with the right.
 Place the Film in the developer, which has been previ-
ously prepared, and at once begin to pu1l the Film from
                          the roll, holding the Film down
                       in the developer with theindex
                          finger of tne left hand. When
                        the whole length has been un-
                               rolled. take hold of the last end
                           of the Film with the left hand
                and pass it back and forth
                      through the developer until the
                       devetopmentiscompleted.  (See
                      Fig.  r. )
                 To avoid transparent spots
                     as soon as the Film has been
                     passed through the developer
        Fig. l.          the firsttime, face down. reverse
it face up, and, holding the Film down in the tray, draw
the Film through the developer under the hand-. This
breaks all the aii bubbles and. a perfect negative will             liesult.       Tpnlq3rentspots-aru".o"eail,""i;8;;;;r;;:
hering to          the Film during development.                    {
  When fully developed rinse in water and immerse in
the Fixing Bath, or if a small tray is used, pass Film

th;'ougn Fixing Bath in the same manner, as in develop-
       ment until the white appearance has disappeared. The
        Film strip may now be washed and hung up to dry ac-
        cording to special directions for drying.
        Much time and trouble is saved. by this method. andI      the results even with widely different exposures compare
         separately, although the most exacting results are to beI      favorably with those obtained by developing the Film        obtained by developing the F ilms separately.
        To                        in one or more exposure lengths, separate               -deveiop             -        the Film into lengths by cutting through the pointi indi-
                                         cated. on the black
                                  paper. (See Figs. z
                              and 3.)  Place the
                                          Films in the develop-
                                       erone at a time. face
                                             dorvn and moveeach
                             one about so that
                                                        all air bubbles may
                             be broken, before
          Fig.2, wrong
       another Film is ad.-
      ded. In this man-
      ner six or more
        pieces may be de-
     veloped at one
        time.
        'When develop-'frt
it     ment is completecl,       wash in twochanges  Fig. 3,  right
         of water and fix the same as in strip devel-
      opment. Wash half an hour in runningt       waler or in eight or ten changes of water and hang up
        to dry as recommended  in special directions for drying.

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/
                                                                                                              .       MACHINE DEVELOPMEN
  The Ansco Film Cartridges are the only Films sold
ready prepared for machine developmentr bymeans of a
p","na"a device. This device consists of a lock cut rn "heend of the Film and longitudinal slots in the black paper'
The slots a1low the Film to rnove freely enough to prevent
bunching in the Camera and. yet hold'the Film sufficient-
ly securJ to the black paper for machine development'
ihis method of fastening the Film to the black paper
obviates the necessity of unwinding the black paper after
exposure to fasten the free end of the Film' which is one
oe tne serious inconveniences of machine development;
for the Film is apt to become fogged' or light struck in
the operation of fastening.
       DRYING NON.CURLING FILM.
  Attach an Ansco Film Clip to each end' of
the Film and hang it up on a line being
careful that neither sid-e comes in contact
 with anythidg.
   In practice it is found. d'esirable to remove
 the surplus water from the emulsion side of
 the Film.  This may be done with a squee-
 gee or by d.rawing the emulsion side of the
 Film across the smooth edge of a ttay or any
 other rounded. surface.
   In drying Non-Curiing Films they should                                                d'l
 be cut up into strips of not more than six
 exposures in length.
    If the Film has been cut uP, Pin bY one            J
 corner to the edge of a shelf or hang the
 negatives on a stretched string by means of
 a bent pin, running the pin through the corner of Film    {., to the head then hooking it over the string'

Always keep finished negatives flat.  Do. not roll
      them up.
       Although any good developer will give good results
      on Ansco Film, we recommend the following formula:
                 METOL HYDRO
          zooo C C......                        ... Water......6o oz.
                                                                                                                   . ... .. ...11","r ......6o Gr.        4 Gramm""  .....' ....:.......
        rz1   "      .       ..Soda Sulphite (gran). ...:. 4 Oz.          6o       rt          '.      ..SodaCarbonate   ,.    .....,  zOz.
           2
             r-3                                ..'t     Potass ....Hydrochinon....Bromide                    .......-S,..aoGr.Gr.
        Add chemicals in the order given.
                  No. r     PYRO         No. a
        Water              ...24 Oz. Water.              ..24 Oz.
         Soda Suiphite (crys). . z Oz. Soda Sulphite (crys). . z Oz.
           Citric Acid.               . . . .6o Gr. Potash Carbonate  ...,  z Oz.                   ' Bromide Ammonium.zo Gr.
           Pyrogallic Acid.......  r Oz.
          For exposures correctly timed, mix No. r, r draml No. z,
                    r draml Water, z oz.
      water     ......:i:l): :i::              ..n oz.
          Hyposulphito Soda                                    .... .. r Oz.
           Sulphite Soda (anhydrous).                      ....8o Gr.
        When ful1y dissolved add the following hardener.
         Powdered Alum.                                     .t-8 Oz.
          CitricAcid.                                       .......t-8 Oz.
             If a plain hypo bath be used the negatives must be
      rinsed in three changes of water and transferred to a
       saturated solution of common alum for full five minutes,
      then washed.
      THE COMMON CAUSES OF
                FAILURE.
        Lfxonn-ExposuRrs are caused. by making instantaneous
      shots in the shade, indoors, early or late in the day. or
 {   when the light js not sufficiently strong to fully impress      the object or view upon the sensitive surface of the film.
      An utrder-exposure  is easily detected in d.evelopment

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by the image appearing very slowly and lack of detail in
the shadows. Prolonged d.evelopment in a weak devel-
oper is advisable.
 An over-timed exposure is easily detected by the film
darkening evenly as soon as placed in the developer,
with no contrast or deep shadows. The negative can
usually be saved byadding a ro per cent. solution of Bro-
mid.e of Potassium; should, the Bromicle be used, the
developer is ruined for other negatives, unless they are
known to be over-exPosed.
 UNDER-DEVELOPMENT.-An  under-devel oped
negative is very thin, and having d.etail in the shadows,
but yielding weak prints; the difference can readily be
seen from one under-exPosed.
 An uncler-developed negative canbeimproved  to quite
an extent by intensifying as follows: Place in a solution
of      % ot. Brchlorid'e of MercurY,
       % oz. Bromide of Potassium,
            t6 ozs. 'Water,
  Let the negative remain until it evenly whitens; then
wash, and apply a solution of r oz, Sulphite Soda to r
oz. water. The negative will then darken, when it
shoulc1. bethoroughly washed and placed to dry.  Bichlo-
rid.e of Mercury is a deadly poison, and care should' be
used to keep it in a safe P1ace.
  Oven-onvnlopMENT is caused by allowing the negative
to remain in the developer longer than it should.
  An over-d.eveloped negative wr1l appear very strong
and. intense, afld requires a long time to print.
  For reducing use the following formula:
  No. r, % or. Red Prussiate of Potash,
              Water.         to oz.                            of Sod'a,                   {           or. HyposulPhite  No. z %                'Water.         ro oz,

Mix Nos. r and z, and,allor,v the negative to remain in
       the above solution until sufficiently reduced. Wash in
       running water for one houi, and piace to d.ry. Red.
        Prussiate of Potash is also a deadly poison; use care in
       handling.
         Irogged Negatiacs are caused. by leakage of the dark-
       room, or by holding the negative to long in the ruby
       light. This causes the film to darken soon after placing
        in the developer.
         Clear white spots are caused. by air bells not being re-
        tnoved. when film is being d.eveloped. or fixed.,
         Streaks result from allowing parts of fi1m to remain
       uncovered while developing.
     ALWAYS DEVELOP THE FILM, EMULSION
     SIDE DOWN"
                 B-{Kv;  'i'>'
     Method of Printing on Royal Gelatine paper
         In the outfit will be found what is known as a printing
     frame. Open the back of the printing frame, place the
       negative on the glass with the dull side up, then place
       the paper facing the dull side of the negative, replace
       the back of the frame and secure with the springs.
         After adjusting the printing frame as directed, place
     same with the glass side up in the strongest light possi_
      ble, (Sunlight preferred). Allow the frame to remain
o l*     in this light until the image is sufficiently impressed. on
       the sensitive paper.
       The process of printing may be examined by opening
      one half of the frame. The back of the frame is hinged.
                                                   and*     one-halfexpressly offorthethe printingpurpose offrameexaminingshould theremainprint,secure
     when the examination is taking place.  If the entire
      back were to be taken off after the printing had pro_
       gressed, it would. be impossible to replace the papei on
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the negative and obtain the correct register' Allow the
printing to continue until same is a shade darker than
you wish the finished. print to be.  After making one or
irvo prints the operator will readily be able to determine
as to the depth the printing should be carried'
  complete d.irections for toning the prints are furnished
with each package of paper, but the simplest and easiest
method for the beginner is by 1e1i11g his prints with a
combined. bath. We prepare a combined toning and
fixing bath, viz. Anthony's Aristotype Toning and Fix-
ing Solution, which may be purchased at any photo-
graphic dealers for 25 cents per eight ounce bottle' -  Place a small quantiLy of this  solution in a tray
sufficient to cover the prints prepared for toning and
allow them to remain in this bath, at the same time
keeping the prints in motion, until the desired tone is
ottainea.  Sepia and brown tones are obtained by
allowing the prints to remain a greater iength of time
in this solution.
  After the operator has obtained the tone which is
most pleasing in his estimation, then remove the prints
and wash completely in at least sixteen changes of
 water or allow same to remain in a tray of running
 water for at least one hour.                   .l
  The prints are then read-y for mounting or may be
 laid out bet"r-een biotlers to dry.
      Printing on DeveloPing Out PaPer
             CYKO
  Cyko is a paper of the developing class which may be
 printed at any time, by anv light and from all classes of
 negatives. This paper is easily manipulated and much
 more satisfactory prints can be obtained with CYKO                         t t6an any  other paper manufactured'

.4-


  The most successful prints are obtained with this
paper by artificial light, the printing being carried. on
by exposing the paper with lamp, gas or electric light.
  This paper is especially intended for making prints at
night and fills that long felt want for the amateur pho-
tographsr, who does not have time to do his printing by
dayJight.
  'We publish the Cyko manual which gives full and.
complete instructions for the manipulation of this paper.
We will furnish same gratis on application.
  These papers can always be obtained from your d.ealer
or through The Anthony & Scovili Co., Binghamton,
N. Y.  Price list on next page.





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