Photography reference
Cyko Product booklet
Product booklet for Cyko. 22 pages in English. Read the original PDF, download or print a copy without registration.
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- Cyko
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- Cyko
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- Product booklet
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- English
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- 22
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Page 3 · Read text
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Cyko Manual
HEN in 1895 Dr. Leo Baekland
succeeded in introducing a gelati-
no-chloride emulsion paper which,
instead of having to be manipulated
in a dark room lighted by ruby light like bro-
mide developing paper, would produce satisfac-
tory prints by development,and could be handled
in subduedlight, most photographerswere scep-
tical as to the results,and would not admit the
artistic possibilities of the new product. The
prints were too contrasty. They lacked trans-
parenciesin the shadowsanil details in the high
lights. In other words, the paper would not
reproduce the delicate middle tints of the nega-
tive. However, the fault was not altogether in
the paper,for the photographersthen,like many
to-day, produced contrasty negativesto suit the
peculiar printing qualities of the collodion print-
ing-out papers - the kind of paper they were
using.
Cyko the Stepping-Stone
It was apparent to many that a gaslight paper
which had so many obvious advantages over
t ,View original page 3Page 5 · Read text
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The Selection of the Light vary, for with the Welsbach light the intensity
depends, to a large extent, on the condition of
Cyko prints may be made by using daylight the mantle. Ordinary gaslight is very satisfac-
for exposure. Select a north window, if possible, tory and convenient for printing especially small
as the light from this direction will be more negatives up to and including 4 x 5. Largeruniform. The paper being very sensitive to negatives, particularly if they be at all dense,
daylight, should be handled in subdued light, require too long an exposure.
as otherwise it might fog. Proper precaution
should be taken to pull down the window shades The light from a kerosene lamp is also satis-
and darken the room sufficiently during manipu- factory, and a large, round wick kerosene lamp
lation. If the light is too strong for printing, it gives nearly as much light as a flat flame gas-
should be diffused or subdued bi the use of burner. The wick must be well trimmed, and the
several thicknessesof white tissue paper. Day- flame should be kept always at the same height
light is extremely variable, and for that reason when printing.
the use of artificial light is recommended, as it
For the professional who has a large numbervaries less in intensity.
of prints to make daily, especially the corn-
The Welsbach light is usually preferred to mercial photographer, the Cooper-Hewitt light
other illuminants on account of its great inten- (mercury vapor) possessesdecided advantages.
sity. The mantle should be in good condition The Cooper-Hewitt Company sell a set of lamps
and the gas pressure uniform, so that the light for this purpose. When using the Cooper-Hewitt
may vary in intensity as little as possible. lamp it is a good method to partition the room
When gaslight is used for printing, a very so as to have the lamp enclosed, cutting out a
convenient arrangement is a by-passvalve which square opening in the partition, which opening,
controls the supply of gas to the burner. When by means of a carriage arrangement, can be
this valve is closed only enough gas passes to coveredwith a piece of postoffice paper or orange
keep the burners lighted, and the exposure is glass of the same dimensions as the opening,
made by opening the by-passwhen the exposure when development is in progress' and uncovered
is to be made. This arrangement can be still when an exposure is to be made.
further simplified by having a spring to close The arc light is alsg used, but it must be verythe by-pass,and a cord to open it when ready to steady. An arc light that frequently flickers andmake an exposure. goesout for a secondor more at a time will cause
Ordinary gaslight, while not as strong as the the loss of many sheets of paper. (The light is
Welsbach light, has the advantage of being so intense that unless it is diffused by interposing
more uniform if the qualiry of the gas does not a pieceof ground glass,theprinting mustbe doneView original page 5Page 7 · Read text
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Place the three trays on the worktable in the Open the package of paper in subdued light
following order: only. Hold the printing frame far enough from
the light source to prevent any possibility of
fogging. Ten feet distant from the ordinary gas
jet or lamp should afford a safe light, or if space
is limited,the printing frame maybe loaded in the
shadow of a newspaper or a piece of cardboard. Tow If there be any question as to the light being
E safe, a simple test will solve the problem. Take
L a small strip of the paper, cover part of it, leav-
ing the balance exposed to the light in which the
frame is to be loaded, and allow it to stand for
about thirty seconds. The paper is then de'
In the centre of the above space is indicated veloped, and should the strip of paper which was
the solution which each tray should contain for covered show any difference in color on develop-
developing Blue Label Cyko (Contrast). If Yel- ing from that which was exposed, it will bc
low Label Cyko (Normal) or Brown Label Cyko obvious that the light is too strong. So either
(Professional)be used,double the quantity of move further away or use a shade to screen the
water should be added to the developer (Tray light. Place the sensitized side of the sheet of
No. r). Do not be too sparing with the amount Cyko against the film side of the negative.
of solution used,especiallythe fixing bath (Tray The paper curls slighty, the sensitized side of
No. g). For making three or four dozen prints the paper appearing concave. An absolute test
4 x 5 size,use a full pint, and do not keep it after of the sensitized side is to bite the corner of
using, as a fresh bath will give the best results. a sheet. The sensitized side u;ill adhere to the
The temperature is important. For the best re- teeth.
sults the developershouldbe 7ooFahrenheit, and
the fixing bath and wash water 5oo Fahrenheit. In order to secure an even illumination it is
necessary that the printing frame be placed at
the proper distance from the light. A large nega-
Printing tive should be printed at a greater distance from
the light than a small one, so that its greater
We will assumethat the printing is to be done area may be properly illuminated. The usual
at night, as artificial light is the light we recom- rule is to print at a distance at least as gteat as
mend, and the light that is generally used for the diagonal of the negative. Thus, a 4 xS nega-
Cyko. tive should not be printed nearer than6ft inchesView original page 7Page 8 · Read text
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from the light; an8x ro should not be printed f'It is made of a piece of. /-inch deal board, 3
nearer than 13inches. When possible,place the feet in length. At one end an ordinary incandes-
printing frame on a level with the light rather cent gas-burner is fixed, and this should be pro- +
than below it, as in so doing you secure the full I vided with a by-pass, so as to enable the lightbenefit of the light and a more even illumination. i to be turned up or down as required. If house-
1 gas is not available,an oil lamp may be used; but A very convenient method for exposing by gas-
light and a useful pSce of apparatus,known as an t in that casea fillet of wood should be screwed to
exposureboard,arEdescribedby JohnA. Hodges the board, and care taken that the base of the
in Amateur Photographer. Mr. Hodges says: lamp always touchesit before commencing work.
Parallel lines should be ruled across the bottom
"In my own practice I employ an incandescent of the exposure board at intervals of 6 inches
gas-burner of the ordinary type, which takes a apart, and numbered6//rtzltrt8'tretc. The ap
No. 3 mantle for exposing, and always fill the paratus will stand upon a table,and if gas is used,
frames and develop by the light of a candle, the connection is made with a piece of India rub-
using the white light unscreened,and working ber tube to the nearest gas-bracket.
at a distance of about a couple of feet away.
"AA is a drawing board about r r inches by t+
"Now, if uniformity of results is desired, the inches,supportedon a foot-piece,DD, r r inches
ordinary practice of exposing by holding the by 6 inches, at the edge of which, at FF, two
frame up to the source of light must not be fol- brass plates are screwed, to enable the whole to
lowed, for however much care be taken to be shifted up and down the board to and from
preserve the same distance between light and the source of light. CC are made of two fillets
frame, the method will inevitably allow of a of wood nailed together at right angles, and are
sufficient margin of error to account for a few intended to clutch and hold the printing frame
spoiled prints. in position at right angles to the light. The up
"The apparatus is very simple, as shown by per C is not screwed to the backboard,but slides
the following diagram. stifily in a vertical slot, so as to accommodate
printing frames of various sizes."
It is not possible to specify any given time for
exposure. The time necessary to print depends
on the kind of light, the density of the negative
and the distance from the source of light. (See
comparative table on page 8). An exposure of
ten to twenty seconds is usually sufficient for an
average4 x5 negative,on the Normal grade. WeView original page 8Page 9 · Read text
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developer used would make a difference in therecommendthatbefore making the fi rstexposure,
time.a sheet of Cyko be cut into strips about an inch
wide, and one of them placed over an important
With our prepared liquid and dry developerspart of the negative. Make the exposure, using
good judgmentbased upon the information given the addition of bromide of potassium is unnec-
essary, the solution containing the correct pro.herein as to the distance from the light and the
portion; that is to say, the correct proportiontime of printing. Develop, and if not satisfac-
provided the paperis fresh. The amount of bro-tory, try another strip, varying the time as indi-
mide depends on the age of the paper and thecated by the first result. When the desired effect
purity of the water and chemicals. The properis secured, any number of prints may be made
amount can be easily ascertained by making afrom the same negative, and if the time of expo.
trial test. Immerse a small strip of Cyko in thesure, the distance from the light, as well as the
developer, and if the whites remain clear aftertime of developing are identical, all the prints
being immersed about fifteen seconds for Blueshould be equally good. By comparing the other
Label and twenty seconds for Yellow Label andnegatives with the one which has been tested, it
Brown Label Cyko, the amount of bromide inwill be possible to make a fairly accurate esti-
the developer is sufficient. Should.the whitesmate of the time of exposure required by any
appear fogged, add a few drops of the bromidenegative.
solution. If, on the other hand, after developing
After the exposed piece of paper is taken from an exposed sheet, the blacks have a greenish
the printing frame, in a safe place previously se- tinge, that is an indication that there is too much
lected, it is ready for development. Prints are bromide in the developer.
usually developed by immersion. The dryprint
should be immersed face up in the developer As soon as the image has reached the desired
(Tray No. r ), and quickly and evenly covered depth, remove the print from the developer to
with the solution. A good way is to put one end Tray No. z, and rinse for a moment, then place
of the paper into the developer, and giving the it in the acid fixing bath, (Tray No. 3), keeping
other end a quick push with the finger, slide it the print moving for a few seconds, so as to
into the developer. The developer will instantly insure an even and thorough fixing. Leave the
cover the whole print, no air bubbles forming on print in the solution until thoroughlyfixed. This
the surface. will take about fifteen minutes. When fixed,
Blue Label Cyko should be developedin a time remove from the fixing bath and wash
not exceedingtwenty seconds;Yellow Label and thoroughly for about an hour in running water.
Brown Label Cyko in about thirty seconds. No Then dry. After being dried, the prints may be
exact time can be given, as the strength of the trimmed and mounted.
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One of the most essential factors in photo- YFe recommend the following formula for
graphic successis cleanliness. The various trays those who prefer to prepare their own solution:
should always be kept scrupulously clean and Formula No. I
the trays used for,the developer and fixing bath * Water, soft or distilled, . g2 ounces
should never be used for any other purpose. Metol . r5 grains
Care must be taken to pi'event the hypo (in the Sodium Sulphite (dried, powdered) . r ounce
Hydrochinon grainr 6o fixing bath) from getting into the tray contain- Sodium Carbonate (granular) f ing the developer. Have a clean towel when Potassium Bromide ounce
beginning to work, wash and wipe your hands Dissolve the chemicals in the order named,
each time after handling the prints in the and remember that while the above amount of hypo solution. bromide is usually sufficient, it may at times be
found that more of the bromide solutionmustbe
added in order to produce clear whites. These
Notes chemicals will dissolve in cold water, but more
on Developing readily in warm water. If warm water be used, the solution should be allowed to cool before
Thcre are several developing agents used for using, about 7o" Fahrenheit being the proper
developing Cyko prints. They are marketed temperature. This developer is suited for Blue
under different trade names, such as Amidol, Label Cyko (Contrastgrade). ForYellow Label
Ortol, Edinol, Metol, Hydrochinon, etc. Amidol Cyko (Normal grade) or Brown Label Cyko
(Professionalgrade), it should be diluted withproduces a very blue-black tone, but owing to an equal quantity of water.rapid oxidation a fresh solution should be mixed
each time. Metol and Hydrochinon in combi- Professionil photographers who use devel-
nation yield the best results on Cyko when they opers in large quantities will prefer the following
formula, which we will call Formula No. z.are used i,n the proportions given in our
formula. , Formula No.2
In view of the difficulty which many have in Stock Developer
obtaining pure chemicals and of the experience Warm Water (soft or distilled) . . reE ounces /
necessaryto compound developers properly, we Metol . ro8 ounces ]
recommend the use of our prepared developers, Sulphite Soda (dried, powdered) . 12 ounces
viz.: Cyko H. M. Developer, and Cyko Concen- SodiumHydrochinonCarbonate (granular) . rl{9 ouncesounces
'trated Non-Abrasion Liquid I)eveloper. Bromide of Potassium 33 gratns
t6 ry NOTICE
I ormula No. p on this page should read:
Meror- . r8o grains.View original page 10Page 11 · Read text
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Mix in the order named. Keep in well stop black tones and platinum efiects, avoid over-
pered bottles. This developer will keep for a exposure. Use less water in the develope.r and
long time after dissolving if placed in bottles a minimum quantity of bromide.
which it fills to the neck. Unlbss the bottles are .
completely filled the developer will not'keep, as * The contrast or the soft effect of the prints
there will be sufficient air in the bottle between will also be varied according to the quantity of
the developer and the stopper to spoil it. bromide of potassium used. If an excess of t
For Blue Label Cyko (Contrast grade) mix bromide is used and the exposure is shorter, the
as follows: contrast will increase. If, on the other hand,
the quantity of bromide is decreased and the
StockDcveloper.. .r ounce developer diluted with water, while at the same
Water 2 ounces time the e*posure is increased, the prints will
be softer. This applies to any grade of Cyko,
For Yellow Label Cyko (Normal grade) and whether Blue Label, Yellow Label, or Brown
for Brown Label Cyko (Professional grade) use Label.
n
StdckDeveloper.. .r ounce t W a t e r : , . . 3 o u n c e s Cyko
To both of the above formula it marybe nec- t Liquid Non-Abrasion Developeressary to add a f ew drops of Bromide of
Potassium ro!( Solution. This developer has unique qualities which
will appeal to the amateur. It is adapted to any It should be borne in mind that the tones of grade of Cyko, but especially to Glossy CykoCyko prints will vary according to the quantity No. 3, for the reason that it prevents abrasionof bromide. used. When just enough bromide marks, also called friction marks, to which allhas been added to keep the white high lights glossy developing-out papers are more or lessclear, the blacks take a bluish tinge. If more susceptible.bromide is added and a test made after such
addition, the tone will change gradually from There is still another feature which is of great
blue-black to pure blackn and upon addition of moment, viz.: It serves as a guide to thorough
a still greater amount of bromide, it will turn to fixing. The print is not absolutely fixed until
greenish or brownish blacks. Hence, for olive the canary yellow color entirely disappears by
and brownish tones, increase the quantity of fixing in a correctly prepared acid hypo bath.
bromide and lengthen the exposure. If neces- This developer should be used as explained on
sary, use more water in the developer. For blue- following page.
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For Yellow Label (Normal) Cyko- fixing bath to causebhsters and even stains. Our
formula for preparing the acld hypo fixing bath Cyko Concentrated Liquid Developer . r ounce
is as follows: W a t e r . . . , ! 4 o u n c e s
For Blue Label (Contrast)Cyko- Solution A
Hypo . . . .r2ounces
Cyko Concentrated Liquid'Developer. z ounces Water 64 ounces Water noor""",, tI
'solution Dissolve and then add It is important that this developing
while in use should be kept at a temperature of Solution B (Hardener)
between 65" and 7oo Fahrenheit. Water S ounccs
Sodium Sulphite (powdered) I ounce
Acetic Acid No.8. . Souncei
- Alum (powdered) )d ounce
Fixing
This part of the photographic process is very We recommend the amateur, however, to use
the Cyko Acid Fixing Hypo. A fifteen-cent important. Its purpose is to reduce the silver t
salts which have not yet been acted upon by package of Cyko Acid Fixing Hypo Salts will
light. Notwithstanding its importance, however, * make one pint of solution that will fix about fifty
very little attention is given to the proper prep 4 r 5 prints.
aration of the fixing bath and to the proper The acid fixing bath can be used repeatedly.
fixing of the prints. Sodium Hyposulphite, or It keeps well, but will by degrees become alka-
Hypo, as commercially termed, which is the line through the gradual addition of developer,
main ingredient, may be obtained for use in which adheres to the prints and is carried into
either agranular or a crystal form. When Hypo the fixing bath. The bath should be discarded
is first dissolved in water, the temperature of the entirely when it becomes muddy. If the fixing
solution is reduced. It is necessarythat the tem- bath becomes exhausted, it will be frothy, or
perature of the fixing bath should be maintained suds will remain on the surface when it is vio-
as near 5oo Fahrenheit as possible. More prints lently agitated.
probably fade from insufficient fixing than frorn
lack of washing. A sufficient amount of solu-
tion, which should be of the right strength to fix Washing '
the prints thoroughly in fifteen minutes, should It is essential that the finished prints be
be used,and the acid hardener should always be washed entirely free from hypo. To wash a
added, as it will overcome the tendency of the batch of one hundred 4 x 5 prints, using two
tl
l
*r, ,View original page 12Page 13 · Read text
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trays of suitable size, and transferring each print from hypo, the following test formula may be
separately from one tray to the other, changing successfully employed.
the water at least twelve times, will require a Permanganateof Potassium., . . 8grains
full hour for the process. If running water is ' CausticSoda. .T gr ainsused, where the prints can be kept constantly I Water, distilled .. .. . 8 ounces
moving so that each individual print has a I
thorough washing, from one-half to one hour, F'ill a glass with pure water, adding three or
according to the number of prints, will be re' four drops of the potassium solution. Then take
quired. Prints are not washed if they are piled a couple of prints from the wash water and allow
in a bunch in a tray, and the water simply runs the water from the prints to drip into the glass.
in at one end and out at the other. In some If hypo is present, the violet color of the water
localities where there is an excessiveamount of in the glass will change to a slightly greenish
iron or impurities in the water, the whites in the tint. In such case,return the prints to the wash
prints may have a slight yellowish tone. The water until similar tests show that the hypo has
prints should not be allowed to wash longer than been entirely eliminated.
an hour, and should never soak in water over-
night, as this tends to soften the gelatine film *
and entirely spoil the print. Drying
The temperature of the wash water is very After washing the prints as directed, remove
important. It should be kept as uniform as them from the wash water and lay them face up
possible. If the water is ice-cold, it will cause on clean lintless blotters, care being taken to
blisters. If running water is used for washing, blot off the superfluous moisture. Another way,
the stream from the tap should not be allowed to which is to be preferred when a large number
fall directly on the prints, as this also will cause of prints are to be dried, is to place them on a
blisters. A good way to avoid this is to place a clean glass in a pile, face down. Cover,them
tumbler or small graduate in the tray used for with a blotter and with a squeegeeroller, press
washing, allowingthe water to flow intothis firsf out all superfluous water. Then lay them out
and then over the side into the tray. separately,face down, on cheese-clothstretchers"
which may be constructed by making a frame-
Cyko prints are absolutely permanent, pro work of light wood, and tacking bleached
vided they be washed thoroughly I otherwise' cheese-clothtightly over it.
they will fade after a time, owing to the chemical Prints dried in this rnanner will curl but
action of the fixing salts remaining in the paper. slightly. If after being dried they have a slight
To determine when a print is thoroughly free tendency to curl, they can be made to lie flat by
.View original page 13Page 14 · Read text
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placing face down on some smooth surface and Mounting
then drawing a ruler overthe back of the print
with a slight pressure, lifting the print as the When prints have been handled with care, so
that broken edges have been avoided, they may ruler passesover it. When this is being done,
be mounted; that is, pasted to a card or in ancare should be taken not to bend any portion of album, directly after the final washing. If it is the print too sharply, as by so doing the gelatine necessaryto trim the prints after washing, theysurface might crack. should be allowed to dry thoroughly and be
made perfectly flat before trimming. For the Enameled Surface purpose of trimming, use a trimming-board in-
Glossy or Semi-Matte Cyko prints can be stead of a knife or ruler, for by doing so,
burnished or squeegeed. Take the prints from absolutely true edges will be obtained.
the wash water and place them face down on a Before being mounted, the prints should beferrotype tin. Squeegee into absolute contact wet again and laid face down, one on top of theand allow them to become bone-dry, when the other, on a piece of glass or other smooth surface.prints will peel off with the desired lustre. If The superfluous water should then be removed
the tin has been in use for some time, a portion with a blotter and a good paste applied to the
of the print may stick. To prevent this, prepare topmost prints and well spread. Then raise
the tins as follows: Dissolve ten grains of bees. the print by lifting it by the two diagonally
wax in one ounce of benzine. Allow this to opposite corners with the thumb and forefinger
stand for a few hours, in which time a precipi- of each hand. Turn the print over and place it
tate will be formed. The clear solution thus in position on the card. Remove any remaining
obtained should be used for polishing the tin, moisture on the face of the print with a sponge.
being applied to the surface of the tins (ferrotype Lay a blotter over the print and with the hand
plates) with a soft cloth, such as Canton flannel. or with a roller rub it into perfect contact with
When the surface of the tin has been thoroughly the card. Use only chemically pure blotters,
covered with this preparation, the tin should be which may be obtained from any reliable dealer
polished with a piece of dry Canton flannel, to in photographic supplies. Lintless blotters are
remove as much of the beeswax as possible. preferable, as the ordinary blotter is liable to
As beeswax varies, to a certain extent in its contain hypo and other impurities which would
be deleterious to the print.composition, the solution may vary somewhat
in consistency,so that the addition of benzine Double-weight papers may be mounted silid,
may be necessaryto permit of polishing the tins but are best used for folder effects. A very
easily. attistic way of making prints with double-weight
4
-&View original page 14Page 15 · Read text
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paper is to use a sheet of .paper considerably 'posing, developing and fixing the card, the same
larger than the negatives to be printed from. result is obtained as with an ordinary sheet of
This will necessitate the use of a larger frame. Cyko paper, viz,: a picture surrounded with an
Have a piece of clear glass the full size of the edge of the part which was protected by the
frame, and fasten the negative to the center of opaque mask.
the glass with strips of gummed paper. Cut a Cyko postal cards are furnished in three sur-
mask of opaque paper the full size of the glass, faces: Glossy, Semi-Matte and Studio (velvet
and from the center cut an opening at least one- surface).
quarter of an inch smaller than the size of the There are many ways of making the Cyko
negative. Place the mask in the printing frame cards lie absolutely flat after drying. One
between the paper and the negative. Then print method is as follows: After removing the super-
and develop the exposed paper in the usual 'fluous water, place the postal cards, face up, on
way. This will produce a print with a very wide a sheet of blotting paper; then place on this
white margin, and when it has been thoroughly layer ofcards a piece of cheese-cloth; and so ondried and straightened, an imprinted or counter- alternately. Then put them all under pressure
sunk margin about half an inch around the until dry. Another way is to sponge the cards,edges of the print may be obtained by using an after drying, with wood alcohol, and then to
embossing board, and thus a fine etching or en-
graving effect produced. The print, enclosed ,.allow them to dry under pressure.
in a folder mount made of cover paper of de-
sirable tone, will have a very artistic appearance. Double Printing
Artistic work may be done on Cyko postal
Cyko Postal Cards cards by double printing, By this method gray
borders and ground may be produced. For the The manipulation of Cyko postal cards is purpose masks are necessary,which should be
similar to that for making Cyko prints. The cut with great exactness. Adcurate registering
cards are sensitized on one side only, and the of the cards when printing is essential. Secureother side is printed to conform to the postal a number of pieces of clear glass. Cut to size
regulations. The negatives should be selected S x 7. (Old negativesfrom which the emulsionthe same as when printing with Cyko paper. has been thoroughly cleansed by soaking in aA printing frame and glass a size larger than solution of hot water and sal soda are suitable.)the negatives should be used, and a mask e.m- Secure also a few sheets of opaque paper of theployed to produce a white edge on the print. same size, viz.: 5 x 7. With one of these papersThe mask is placed between the negative and make a mask as. shown in Figure r, on thethe sensitized side of the postal card. On ex- following page.
z6View original page 15Page 16 · Read text
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N o r .
u'hich the negative and card are to be exposed.
Fasten the negative with strips of adhesive
paper to one of the piecesof clearglass,placing
the portion to be printed directly under the open-
ing in the mask Adjust the glass, negative and
mask in the printing frame. Lay on the Cyko
postal card, sensitized side down, so that one
end covers the opening in the mask. Take care
that the edges A and B of the glass, mask and
card fit flush against the corresponding sides of
the printing frame. Expose in the usual way,
allowing the proper time required for a perfect
print. Remove the entire outfit from the print-
ing frame and insert the glass and mask No. z,
portion Shaded represents opague paper. White portioa which has been previously prepared, as shown partshows cut out.
in Figure z.
n No. z. From another piece of opaque paper S//x7/r
cut an opening 3" x 5", Measure with exact-
ness, so as to leave a margin of a quarter of an
inch on the side A B. Then gum this mask
securely to another glass. Cut a piece of opaque
paper z%" x3%'/, and gum this in the clear space
at a distance of precisely one-half of an inch
from edgesA and B. Then place the entire out-
fit in the printing frame,laying on the postal card
previously exposed under No. r mat. Fit the
edges flush into the corner of the frame and ex-
pose. This second exposure should be just long
enough to produce the desired tint. Be guided in
the time of exposure according to the grade of
Cyko used. In case of over-exposrlre,the border
Shaded portion represents opaque paper. White portion is dark. In case of under-exposure,the border
shows part cut out. tint is light. To secure the tint desired, a little
Measure from edgesA and B a space l{ of. an practice is necessary. If all measurementshave
inchwide. Thencut an opening 2ttx3'trthrough been made with exactnessand the exposure and
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developing have been correct, the result will be a then be removed and rinsed thoroughly in fresh
finished postal card, with a picture zlt x 3/t in water, and placed in the re-developing solution.
size, having a white margin and surrounded by In thissolution the faint image will immediately
a gray border-one quarter of an inch wide on commence to turn to a warm brown tone, or
top and on one side, one-half inch wide at the sepia, gradually deepening until it regains its
bottom, and one and one-half inch wide on the former strength and brilliancy, only that the
other side. The tint of this border should be a black and white has turned to a sepia tone. A
slate gray, and should harmonize with the black final washing is then given the print for at least
tone of the print. Other forms, such as ovals half an hour. The whole process requires only
and circles, may be made, the process being a short time, and the results are absolutely per.
exactly the same as that already described. manent which is not the case with other
methods of producing sepia tones.
Cyko Re-Developer
The general effect of many subjects is con-
siderably improved by producing prints in sepia How to Make Prints from
instead of black and white. By this means the Wet Negatives
print securesthe appearance of an old etching.
Sepia and brown tints may be readily produced Sometimes it is necessary to make a Cyko
with Cyko paper, by using Cyko re-developer. print immediately after the negative has been
The Cyko re-developer consists of a box of developed, or while still wet. This happens
fifteen white and fifteen yellow tablets, and a quite frequently in newspaper work.
bottle of solution. Dissolve one each of the
tablets in four ounces of water, and add three In order to make a Cyko print from a wet
drops of ammonia (not household ammonia). negative soak the paper in water for a few
This will make the bleaching solution. Take seconds,and then place it carefully on the film
one-half ounce of re-developing liquid, and mix side of the wet negative. Smooth it down with
with sixteen ounces of water. This will make a squeegee to insure perfect contact. Make
the re-developing solution. the print without the use of the printing frame.
Cyko print for re-development should be Expose in the regular way. Then soak both
made a shade darker than for black and white, negative and paper in water long enough for the
and after havingfirstbeen fixed and thoroughly paper to separate from the negative. Develop
washed, is placed in the bleaching solution, and and fix the negative, and then wash it carefully,
allowed to remain in it until the deepestshadows so as to remove all hypo remaining from the
have turned to light brown. The print should fixing bath.
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A Word to the Users of Cyko If the brown tone appears after immersion in
the fixing bath, it may be traceable to impure
By carefully following the foregoing direc- sulphite of sodium,or to too warm.a fixing bath.tions you will secure a beautiful Cyko print; but
if now and then you fail to attain success,you Contrasty Prints (Lacking in Detail)
may be able to locate the cause by the foilowing If negatives are too harsh, use Normal orlist of reasons for failing to make good Cyko ProfessionalCyko, which works softer than theprints.
Contrast grade. A softer effect may be obtained
with any grade of Cyko by increasing the expo- fmpure or Grayish Whites sure or using a more dilute developer, or both.
Lack of bromide in the developer.
'Weak Add a few drops of.a1ofr solution of bromide Prints (Lacking in Detail)
to the developer. Under-exposure (indicated by the necessity of
Under-timed prints which have been forced forcing development).
in the development.
Or possibly the paper has been fogged by Flat, Muddy Prints
having been brought too near the light while II Over-exposure. Negatives too thin or too
the printing frame was being loaded, or while weak. Use Contrast Cyko, which is more con- Ithe paper was developing. trasty than Normal or Professional Cyko.
The trouble may be due in some cases to the
Greenish Tones cleveloperbeing too weak.
Too weak or too old a developer. Too much
bromide in the developer. Oxidized developer. Prints that are Too Dark
Or over-exposure. Over-developed. (See also Grayish-Itthites.)
Use a more concentrated developer, or add Remove prints from the developer sooner.
less bromide. A strong and fresh developer per-
mits of the use of more bromide than a weak Yellow or Brown Stains
one, without producing greenish black. The developerhas not covered the print uni-
formly, or too long a time has elapsed between
Brown Tones developing and fixing, or the prints were not kept
When the brown tones show while the print is in motion when first immersed in the fixing bath,
in the developer, it may be due to over-exposure Staining all over the print is the result of try-
and an excessiveamount of bromide, or an old ing to force the development of under-timed
or incorrectly compounded developer. prints, or too weak or too old a developer. The
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print may not have been fixed thoroughly enough It must be borne in mind that each print that
or not washed sufficiently goes from the developer into the fixing bath
In some cases it is due to the fact that the carries a certain amount of the alkali contained
water contains too great a proportion of iron. in the developer,which in time will neutralize
It is easy to determine when the trouble is due the acid.
to incomplete fixing, because the printwill have
a sweet taste. fmpure Chemicals
Always rinse prints before fixing. It is easy to ascertain when the fixing bath
We may here remark that one of the most is not in proper condition, by wetting the thumb
common troubles met with in printing with gas- and index finger in the fixing solution. If the
light paper is staining; but this trouble is seldom two fingers do not slip easily when rubbed
present when making Cyko prints, unless the together, the fixing solution is right.
worker is obviously careless. Prints will sometimesblister when not allowed
to remain in the fixing bath long enough to
Round Dark SpoO harden the film. The surface of the print when
Air bells on print while in the fxing bath. removed from this bath should not feel slippery
The print should be completely immersed in the to the touch.
acid hypo bath and kept in motion during the
first few seconds after immersion. Discoloration Around Edge of Prints
If the centre of the print is clear, it indicates
Blisiers that the paper has been kept in a place exposed
to chemical emanations-such as ammonia va- The printing f4ame has been placed too near
pors, illuminating gas, or gas from a furnace orthe source of light. This would be indicated
stove, or fumes from turpentine or sewer gas. if the negative felt rather warm to the touch
The package of paper must be kept tightly closedwhen taking the print out. In this event, the
when not in use.print should be allowed to cool off before de-
veloping. Prints may have been creased or
broken while washing. Do not allow the water Curling and Cracking of the Surface
to rui directly on the print from the tap. Too The paper has become too dry. It should not
great a variation in temperature between the be kept in a hot, dry place. The trouble may
different solutions and the wash water may also be overcome by soaking the prints for a few
be responsible for this trouble. It may also be minutes in a bath consisting of one ounce of
due to an insufficient quantity of acid in the glycerine and twelve ounces of water. Then dry
fixing bath. The fixing bath must be kept acid. the prints without washing them again.
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paper which have never been coated. It is an'
Round White Spots noying td the photographer, because he feels
Air bubbles remaining on the surface of the sure that the fault is in the paper, which is not
paper while in the developing solution. The so. These freaks occur most frequently in warm
bubbles should have been removed with the weather when the humidity is great, and are due
finger during development. Some opaque sub- to the fact that the paper absorbs moisture un-
stancebetweenthe paper and the negative when evenly, and becomes repellant in certain spots to
printing. the action of an incorrect developer.
White deposit all over the surface of the prints
is caused by milky hypo bath. If washed thor- Permanency
oughly, it can be removed. Cyko prints are absolutely permanent, pro-
vided the manipulation has been thorough. Cyko
Black Surface Marks or Scratches prints made eight years ago which liave been
This occurs mostly with glossy paper, and is exposed to the action of the sun are as excellent
the result of pressure or friction before devel- to-day as they were at the time that they were
opment. made. While Cyko paper is only guaranteed to
These marks can be removed from the dry keep in good condition for a year before using,
print by rubbing it with a tuft of cotton dipped photographers have sent us prints made on paper
in wood alcohol. three or four years old that are absolutely per-
This trouble can be made absolutely im- fect. Moreover, Cyko paper was then made on
possible by using Cyko Liquid Developer domestic stock, whereas since r9o5 it has been
(Non-Abrasion). coated on the best imported photographic raw
paper. All Cyko paper is stamped with a guar-
'When antee date. Canary Yellow Color Produced
Cyko Liquid Non-Abrasion Developer
Has Been Used
A sign that the print has not been fixed suft-
ciently. The canary color should disappear
entirely when properly fixed in a correctly pre-
pared acid hypo bath.
Freaks
Picture developed irregularly, and appears to
be covered with greasy streaks and finger marks,
giving the impression that they are spots on the 3l
36
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