Film cameras
Ensign Carbine No. 5 User manual
User manual for Ensign Carbine No. 5. 29 pages in English. Read the original PDF, download or print a copy without registration.
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Document details
- Brand
- Ensign
- Model / document
- Ensign Carbine No. 5
- Document type
- User manual
- Language
- English
- Pages
- 29
- File size
- 2.9 MB
- Category
- Film cameras
- Document date
- Not specified in catalog
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Page 1 · Read text
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FilOW TO IJSE
6he
ENSNGN
CTnEIHH
ffiOIn]TD. rtrl lErt*tr\jt ilXm. L,fl]ffi€tr0
-:
No. 5
] MADE IN GREAT BRITAIN.
i{OUcHTon.BUTCHER (Great Britain), LTD.
LO}IDON :: ENGLAND
r;
Price Twobence.
'View original page 1Page 2 · Read text
ALL ENSIGN CAMERAS {1 ARE GUARANTEED TO GIVE
GOOD RESULTS.
-1ri
IF FOR ANY REASON YOUR
CAMERA IS NOT DOING AS
WELL AS YOU THINK IT
SHOULD, ASK ABOUT IT- EITHER OF THE DEALER j FROM WHOM YOU BOUGHT
THE CAMERA OR DIREC'I'
OF US.
WE ARE HERE TO MAKE YOUR
PHOTOGRAPHY A PLEASURE
A WORRY. -NOT l
DOI.i.T BE SATISFIED TILL
YOU GET SIX GOOD RLSULTS I
FROM EVERY FILM.
H oughton- Butcher (uc,iA1il, Ltd.,
ENSIGN HOUSE,
1 88/89, High Holborn,
London, W.C. IView original page 2Page 5 · Read text
,..f V{
I
can subsequently be turned into the most pleasing
results by means of a simple enlarger. The Ensign
Carbine is complete in every detail, unrivalled in
design, worl<manship and finish, and will commend
itself to that large section of the public to whom picture
making is their pleasure.
The Camnena Descni,hedl
The camera con-
sists of a metal body
rounded at the ends.
This body contains
two chambers for the
film, and a winding
key is fitted at one .l
end which engages in
the film spool. The
bellows of the camera
connecting the lens II plate and body are
made of leather. The Fig. t
front of the camera is I
I
board which, when open, is r"ij',TX"|;Ii"jrln'; J
struts. When closed, the baseboard i, ,.",rr"d by a
catch. Two runners are fitted to the baseboard on I
*lri"lt the U shaped front travels. The lens plate,
which carries the lens and shutter, is part of thelront.
This plate carries the reflex view finder, "ollapsibl.also the wire frame of the direct vision finder. The
cariage is fitted with two finger erips.View original page 5Page 6 · Read text
,{ \;, www.butkus.us
[-,oadlimg t]he Camena
Digitally signed by Mike Butkus Before loading,
manuals, ou=butkus.org,
email=mike@butkus.org, c=US read these direct- Mike Butkus DN: cn=Mike Butkus, o=Butkus camera
Date: 2021.05.08 16:59:07 -04'00' ions carefully, ex-
amining everypart
thoroughly to un-
, derstand whyit is
\ there (fig. l). Re-
7) member that once
" the film is in posi-
tion it cannot be
removed without
spoiling, even in
the"dark"room.
Test the shutter, and make sure you understand the
various movements.
iLoading.-Re-
move the back of
the camera, hold-
ing it in the left
hand and pressing
the two catches on
the sides of the
body with the right hand. Tal<e care not to press
the sides of the back together-only the roughened
part of the catches need be held, and the back eased
off with the tips of the fingers (tig. 2). Two film
chambers are revealed, the upper chamber having
two centre bearing studs upon which the film turns,View original page 6Page 7 · Read text
mounted on hinged brackets of novel design (Prov.
Patent 23500/1926), the lower chamber having only
one -stud, the opposite side being occupied by the winder, the key of which enters the side of the loose
spool through the chamber, but can be withdrawn
by pulling the winding handle outwards.
Each chamber is
also provided \4iith
a guide roller over
which the film runs,
and a tension spring,
while an empty spool
bobbin should be in
the lower or windine
chamber.
Fig. 4
. Take_a spool of _" Ensign Speedy " film, size 2!8, break the seal and remove all the label, insert the
spo-ol in the upper spool chamber on the studs,
with the end of the paper leadin3 towards the lower
chamber ({igs. 3 and 4). Keep the spool-pin brackets
pressed into the camera by grasping the Lody at that
point, lead the free end of the paper across both
guide rollers and
thread it through
the slot in the
empty spool inthe
winder chamber
(fig. 5). This slot
is cut wider
on one side than
the other to take
the paper; see
that you start
the paper in the
wider side.
4
i_ ----.&-View original page 7Page 8 · Read text
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Give the winder two or
three turns, and replace the
back. This should be done
by putting it on winder end
first, then press until the
catches indicate that it is ) F==-6i.
securely fastened (fig. 6).
At this point pull up the Fie.7
little catch (which also forms a foot) and open the
baseboard (fig. l0). Turn the cover of the ruby
window to " WIND " (fig. 7), this will release the
spring pressure plate (Patent 280352). Give the
winder about ten turns until a " hand " sign appears
in the ruby window. This is a warning of the
approach of No. l, which will appear after a few
more tums. Do not turn quickly or the number will
pass the window unnoticed, and once past, there
is no bringing it back. If the camera is not required
for use at once it is advisable to leave the film at sa[eti'.
thatisto say,with
. the hand show-
ing at the win-
dow.thenshould
the shutterbe in-
advertently re-
leased no harm
will result. AI-
u)aus.-i-- turn the
film before clos-
i@
and uith the rubg
uindou coler
Fig. 6 frView original page 8Page 10 · Read text
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moved forward. This
is accomplished by
depressing the whole
plate on whichfigures
are marked. The front
should then be moved
. Fig 10.
into position so that
the number of feet Gishown on the scale
coriesponds with the
distance of the object
away.
Viea Finders.-Two
are fitted (a) fig. ll.
The standard type of
brilliant finder is re-
Fie. 1r
versible for horizontal
pictures; (6) fig. 12. Direct
vision with sight.ng
plate. When using, the
camera should be held
at eve level close to the
f.... th" subject being
observed through the
sight hole, the sides of
which should correspond
with the wire finder. Fie. L2View original page 10Page 11 · Read text
The Shutter.-This is the " exposer," o, method
by which an exposure is made. It carries the lens and
is fitted to the front of the camera.
T.B.I Type. 3-spe.ed 'Iype.
Time Bulb.-lnstantaneous. A reliable shutter
giving a speed of about l/30th on instantaneous.
6-speed Type.
Snapshots holding camera in the hand :
l/25th sec. Slow snapshots ; fair light,
l/50th ,, Medium fast snapshots ; good lieht.
l/l00th ,, Fast snapshots in brilliant light.-
Beachpictures. Clouds.
l/250th ,, Sports pictures.
Exposures where the camera should be used on
a stand:
l/2 sec. P_ortraits and close up. In dull light
(Winter).
l/5th ,, Portraits and close up. In' moderate
light (Winter).
l/l0th ,, Close ups. In moderate light (Winter). B. Short Time Exposures.
Portraits in open in dull light.
T. Long Time Exposures. Interiors.
:':
UView original page 11Page 12 · Read text
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. The lris Diaphragm is used to control the light for various subjects, and the following should s.rv" .t
a guide :-f63, f7 .7 orl8, for portraits and near obiects;
/f l, for average views ; Jl6, for distant views ;
f22 and 132, sea and cloud pictures and interiors
where long exposures can be given.
It rnust always be remembered that each smaller
stop doubles the exposure. For instance, a vierv
at/l I requires an exposure of l/50th sec. The same
view atl16 would require l/25th.
The Ensign Release is supplied with all these
cameras.
Nfiaking a]n JExposrure
The camera being loaded and No. I in position,
t examine the subject carefully, and having referred to
the exposure table (see last page), decide what expos-
ure and stop to use ; having done this, judge, or in
close pictures actually pace out, the distance of your
subject from the camera, and set the front accordingly.
Then havrng as-
sured yourself that
all you wish to in-
clude is shown in
the {inder, look at
your subject and
press the release
with a steady pres-
sure. Do n:-t jerk or
the picture will be
blurred. The €x-
posure being made,
immediatelg uind l'rg'Fig. i3i3 another f ilm into
positidn: make a habit of doing this immediately
after exposure. It is very annoying to find that twl
pictures have been made on one film.View original page 12Page 13 · Read text
First attempts should be made in the open aic
in a good light, with the shutter set at l/25, and tne
diaphragm scale at the largest aperture. Make two
exposures under these conditions, then close the dia-
phraem to /l I and make two more. Again close
it to/16 and expose the last two sections of the spool.
The development of this film will serve as an example
of the difference made by using different sizes of the
diaphragm.
Horizontal Prctures (fig. l4).-Hold the camera
on its side, turn over the finder and operate in the
usual manner. If a time or bulb .*porrr." is being
made, rest the camera on some suitable support and
turn the leg completely round until it forms a support
for the front of the camera (fig. l4).
To close the Camera.-Take hold of the finger
grips, depress the focussing scale and push the front
Fi r. 14
along the runners into the body of the camera, close
up the foot, place both thumbs on the side struts near
the body, the fingers behind the body, and press down
the struts (fig. l3). The baseboard may then be folded
up and finally closed.
To unload Spoo/.-The sixth film having been
exposed, tum the winder about a dozen timls and
remove the back. Pull the winder outwards and
remove spool holder. Transfer empty spool from
the other holder and replace in winder Lnd. Re-
load as described in " Loading."
t0View original page 13Page 14 · Read text
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lPicc'rme Composition
Anybody
with ordinary
common sense
can take a
photograph,
but it is not
everyone who
without a
thought can
" make a pic-
ture." We
have only to
look at pictures produced by serious workers to know
that photography u" -u.rr" of producing pictures is anything but automatic" and mechanical. We often
hear our friends, the budding and would-be artists,
denouncing with all the vigour of their ignorance
the lack of r.al art in phlotography, that a camera is a thing without a soul. So is".rJthe palette
and brush before the soul gets behind it. It is the
same with a camera; it gets its soul from the photo-
grapher. As we see the painter's masterpiece and the
wooden, stiff photograph, so also do we see the beauti-
ful photograph anJth. wooden soulless painting. In
other words.
the brush or
the camera is
only the outlet
for the artist's
inspiration, be
he painter or
humblephoto-
grapher. The
composition of
a picture re-
qurres more
care than any,View original page 14Page 15 · Read text
thing else. The photo-
graph is either made or
marred by composition,
and a little extra patience
and thought beforehand
will often turn a dull sub-
ject into a pictorial success
The particular points to
be studied in landscapes
are :.-1. Foreground
2. Bactr<ground.
3. Lighting.
4. Position of
objects.
5. Position of
photographer.
T'he.general fault with No. I is that too much foreground
is. given, paking^objects unnecessarily frat Jra ;"-distinct. In No. 2 the background J;rrance canvery often be improved bv slight".1 in theposition of the camera. Ar r"g.rJr" tighu"g"lLoti"n
is most important and has .ff;"t;; a s!e"1 ,l*"ii"J;r"lri; ;i;i;:grap.b.. Heavy shadows ,h"""ld .rroid"d b. ;;-f.;;.possible.
Portroits and GrouDs.-As everyone knows snapshot
portraits are nearly always
rrore pleasine a.rd truer to
Iife than the studio type,
and much can be donl by
the _enterprising amateur
in obtaining striking like-
nesses. A.,y attempt at
posing is to be avoiled:
a . Iittle. patience, _ dis-
crrmination as regards the
b9r! moment, study
of the lighting "ndconditions
prevailing, will generally
rep-ay _the photographer with the admiration the
resulting portrait receives.View original page 15Page 16 · Read text
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N N
DEVELOPING
a"??4PRINTING
t,* NI NNI
lReq'cliremenfs
I-IRST of all you must arrange a room.that can be f{ made ouite dark. It does not in tholeast matter r what room it is. but absolute darkness is essential.
Naturally a Bath Room is convenient because there is a
water supply, and also a little splashing on the floor will
not do any damage. Still, if this is not convenient you
may quite easily use a Sitting Room in the evening, taking
the natural precaution to spread two or three newspapers
on the table. I suggest this is natural because I hope
you realise that any success withPhotographymust start
with cleanliness and end with cleanliness. and cleanli-
ness must environ you all through. There is another
important factor to be observed in all your operations
-do not hurry. The next requisite is a Ruby Lamp; you can buy
one from 2/- upwards. You must, however, be rather
careful, as all Ruby Lamps are not what they seem.
The best plan is to pay a fair price to begin with and
obtain a good one-it is cheaper in the long run. It is
important that it is light-tight, or rather " white " light-
tight ; you will easily see the first time you try it if any
white light leaks out, and if so, you must stop the Ieaks
or discard the lamp. The remaining requirements are
two or three developing dishes, a glass measure and a
washing tank. The size of the dishes should conform
to the size of the plates in use, those intended for the
developer are preferably of xylonite, but a large one
of porcelain is the most convenient for the Fixing
Solution. If you are using small plates this dish may
very well be large enough to take four of them.
13View original page 16Page 17 · Read text
ffis1l'*'/\I EFI / L.F,FI j
i E,l \t F'/ 1
<)^{Fl}{P
-.'g
dishes one porcelain dish. and l.-Procne tuo xglonite II shade. choose ailjustable a lamp uith an 2.-Aluass
3.-Ensisn " Euerseett " measures are oisible in the dimmest light.' ,+I
A Thermometer will be found of great service to
test the temperature of the solution.
A Dish Cover of some kind should also be provided
This may consist of the lid of a card-board box, a little
larger than the Developing Dish. It is really important
to have a Dish Cover so as to prevent the plate being
exposed to the full rays of the Ruby Lamp all the time
the development is taking place.
Develotpers
There is a bewildering variety of developers. The
action of all is similar and the results pretty much the
same. The most popular are Pyro Soda (P.S.), Metol
Quinol (M.Q.) and Azol. It is best to commence with
Pyro Soda and later on you may try the others. These
developers may all be purchased ready mixed, requir-
ing only the addition of water. The " Primus " Pyro
Soda is supplied in two bottles, and full directions for
the mixing is printed on them. Metol Quinol is sup-
plied in the same form, whereas Azol is in a single
l1solution, and all will keep almost indefinitely.
The two fgrmer developers are also supplied in I,,
powder form in packets, but beginners are advised to
commence with the liquids-they are very economical
and save a lot of trouble.View original page 17Page 18 · Read text
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.-Ns ryvs
4.-Aluaus hanille plates, uel or ihs, bu the eilees.
S.-Alu'a,r poui' on the deteloper uith one sueep.
Fixing Sonucion
Is made with Hypo and water. Thqe are two
varieties of Hypo, Oiditt.ty Hypo and Acid Hvpo-the
Iatter is th. besi for all purposes (except for Self-toning
papers). The Solution is made by -mixing 4.ozs. of Acid
Hypo *ith 20 ozs. water. It dissolves readily in warm
*"ier b"t the solution must not be used warm. You
must allow it to cool down. In very cold weather it may
be slightly warmed above the tap-water temperature
but do ,rot ,r". it above 60' or 70" Fahr. .
Frocedurre
You will already know that the side of the plate that
the picture will be on is the one with the creamy film on
it *ii"h is called the " Emulsion " side.
The plate must be placed in the dish with this side
uppermost.
First of all prepare the developer and have it ready
in the measutl. Mi" up sufficient, don't be mean with
it, about lL or 2 ott. ure necessary for a I plate.
Then pour the Fixing Solution into the china dish
and have it ready at the side.
Place the exposed plate in the- develoPing dish,
taking care all the time io keep it as far f rom theJight asI you p"ossibly can, only iust near enough to enable you
to see what you are doing.
r5View original page 18Page 19 · Read text
Q.-Pqur on det;eloper anil cooer uF, lhen uait the estimated time,
7.-The result aill be a sparllling negatioe, correctlg ileoelopeil.
Then pour the developer on carefully but quickly,
and be sure that it covers the whole surface of the plate
at once, or irregular marl<ings may result.
Place the cover over the dish and rock it gently
underneath. Ii the cover is Iarge enough you will find
this quite easy-don't rock violently or you will upset
the developer, just gently so as to keep the liquid in
motion. After about one minute look at it and see if
there is any sign oi darkening. The image soon
appears, and if you are satisfied that something really
is coming on, replace the dish cover and continue the
gentle rocking.
The time occupied to develop a negative greatly
vades. It depends on-
l. The speed of the plates (rapid plates take longer
than slow ones).
2. The temperature o{ the solution. In warm
weather it acts more rapidly than in cold.
'3. There is also a variation in the time occur:ied
by different developers.
On again examining the plate, watch carefully to see
if the image is coming out fairly clear and then turn the J
plate so that you can look at the back, and when the
image shows clearlg through, take the plate out and put
it in the Fixing Solution.View original page 19Page 20 · Read text
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8.-F x uour plates in a l:ad-lined tank lor prelerence.
9.-Wasi under the tab until all traces ol hspo d.isapqear.
Densi'cy
One of the little difficulties that beginners experience
is to judge when a negative is sufficiently dense. The
different makes of plates vary very much in respect to
showing the image through the emulsion, and the only
sure guide is " Experience." After you have develcped
a few plates you will soon see how long you shoulcl give
them, and do not be mislead if you see the whole
surface covered. In most subjects it should be covered
all over. Incline to rather over than under develop.
Most beginners are in too much hurry and thinl< the
density is sufficient before it really is so, and then rvhen
they take it out of the fixing are horribly disappointed
to find their negative very thin and miserable.
Fixing
When the developcd plate is placed in the fixing
solution any remains of the creamy film will rapidly
disappear. It is dissolved out. But again. do not be in
a hurry-let the plate remain in the solution not less
than 15 minutes to mal<e quite sure-longer will not
matter, and may be an advantage particularly in cold
weather, because although you may not be able to see
any of the unexposed emulsion, a little will still bel there. If you remcve the plate too quickly you will be
sorry afterwards, so again err on the sideof caution and
rl l:ave the plate in {or at least l5 minutes or more.View original page 20Page 21 · Read text
10, ll, l?.-Klinax Plate DetseloFing Tanh.
Washingl
The negative must be carefully washed either in
several changes of water or in one of the " Useful "
washers. About half an hour will suffice in summer
but in cold weather efficient washing will take longer.
The object is to remove all traces of the Hypo, and this
is less soluble in cold water.
Dnyimg
The negative must then be carefully driedaou can
accelerate this by wiping the glass side quite dry and
standing it upon edge on a piece of blotting paper and
then place it in a rack in a current of air. Do not try
and dry it in front of the fire or you will melt the
emulsion.
Develloping Films
Undoubtedly the easiest way is with the Carbine 1
Davlight Developing Tank, the simplest, cleanest and
best tank on the market to-day. All operations are
carried out in daylight from beginning to end. If youhave not procured such a tank procedure is as follows : l
The method of dealing with films varies slightly
the whole plates, same, theory is the but as thefrom ,l obvious ordinary an be dealt with has tostrip it is
dish is not suitable. Recourse must therefore be made
to a special appliance, such as a Trident Weight. This
consists of a rather heavy tridenl made of china, which IView original page 21Page 22 · Read text
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; re\le lM rT, .l m,
13, 14, 15.-The Catbine FiIm Deoeloping Tanli.
I must be placed in the dgveloping- dish before the
developer-is poured in. The iilms should have a clip? fixed on e."h ettd to make it easier to hold and should
be introduced into the developer underneath the
centre prons of the trident. It can then be drawn back
..rd foi*"rl through its whole length until develop'
ment is complete. You must remember that as only
part of the film is in the developer it will take much
iong". than a plate, as you will be developing- say-six
exDosures at once, ..td .o you must allow for this.
In^dealing with films, the side with-the emulsion on
mn"t b" pi.""d downwards, so.that-there is no chance
of rbr.iing it by contact with the surface of the
trident weight.
The fixing is conducted in the same manner as
plates, .*""ft that you-require either a larger dish or
vou rrnrst c,tt the negatives off at their margins with a
puir of scissors.
Films are dried by pinning them along the edge of
a shelf with glass push Pins.
I Frf,ncing \Mf,ah Senfa'conimg lPapen
'A printing frame is required, an! if you are using t;t-.'li-t"""I have a piece of glass in it to.suqPort the that is, theimaget i;i*- Sat-t"rrirrg p.p.-r " prints out,"
U".i"".lv It must be printed rather dee-per
as it will lose consider- i[""""" v"" rrig"ht "J*.'think necessary' .ftv i" thelixing. In all printing operations gieatView original page 22Page 23 · Read text
\V16 tu" % M,l
16.-Separute lilm lrom the paper baching.
17.-Deoelop roll lilms in the length bs using a Triilent ueight.
18.-Or a Carbine Film Dish.
cleanliness is again a desid.eratum. dirty or greasy
fingers will mark the prints and ruin the results. The
prints should be washed in a few charrges of water
and then transferred to a Hypo bath, which should
always be quite fresh. Make up a new dose of solution
for each batch of prints. For Self-toning paper do not
use Acid Hypo. The bath should be composed of :
Hypo ordinary, 4 ozs.
Plain water, 20 ozs.
About 15 minutes will suffice for fixing, but do not
allow the prints to stick together. Keep them moving
and wash well in a few changes of water. It is even
more necessary to well wash the prints than the nega-
tives, as if any traces of Hypo is left in them they will
soon fade. At least a half-dozen changes of water
are necessary and the time consumed should be about
half an hour. They may be dried on special blotting
paper which is sold for the purpose, or they may be
squeeged down on to a Primus Glazer or Ferrotype
plate, and left till they are bone dry, when they will
easily come off.
Gasnigh'a lPrinrting
The next important process is called Gaslight, and
it is one of the most satisfactory as the prints can be
rapidly made and, more important, the work can be
done in the evening, as the exposures are made by
2Q
't - , ,;,.,,,,*., " . .n,. . ,.,-,. ..iView original page 23From the M. Butkus archive. Original publisher and archive notices are retained.
Check the model and edition against your equipment.
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