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Holga 4 camera User manual

User manual for Holga 4 camera. 21 pages in English. Read the original PDF, download or print a copy without registration.

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Brand
Holga
Model / document
Holga 4 camera
Document type
User manual
Language
English
Pages
21
File size
5.0 MB
Category
Film cameras
Document date
Not specified in catalog

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Page 2 · Read text
EI:TATIdHEIFf,              I  i...r  .rl . E!!lllINTFODUCTIOil
     Holga cameras have a near fanatical
      following of professionals, educators
     and artists. But, for those not familiar
    with the brand and its unique
     properties, a Holga is largely an
    enigma. This does not dissuade
     people from buying the camera. In
     fact, the Holga mystique draws
     people to it.
      ln this guide, we will  lift the veil that  Apatuerchip:Thecamen&phownpher    shrouds the camera and give you   bofficontibutedsmehingtottisimage.
                                                            Photo bv Michette Eates and her Hotsa.     SpeCial inSight intO the HOlga. We will
     explore the camera's inner workings, show you how to use  it, and discuss that
     special photographic "sensibility" the Holga is known for.
  HOLGA SENSIBILITY
   A Holga is a study in plastic imperfection, and to use it is an exercise in
    breaking free from dependence on technology, precision, and uber-
     sharpness. The slight softness of the images, uncontrollable vignetting and
     peculiar light leaks create a partnership between you and your Holga. These
     "flaws", accompanied by your creative choices, result in a quasi-
     serendipitous form of art.
   A Holga stretches our visual perception. Using a Holga adds another facet to
     the way we see the world. We notice more things, and thus we examine and
     evaluate their status.
   A Holga is an educator teaching us a new visual vocabulary with which to
     describe our world.
   A Holga is a rule breaker. To use a Holga is to utterly change the terms of
     reference most people use to interpret photography.
  HOLGA HISTORV
     Holga's history is the stuff of myth and legend. Some say that the camera is
    made by the same people who brought us the original Diana plastic camera.
    0thers say the Holga was designed specifically to fill the gap left by the
     Diana's temporary departure.
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_,E!i?                            - L.                                    lll
The truth is something very different. Holga is not related to Diana, and the
Holga was not designed with the Diana in mind. ln fact, the people who
manufacture the Holga were not even familiar with the Diana nor its
substantial following.
Designed and engineered in a factory in China, the Holga was initially
introduced  to the Chinese public in 1981 as an inexpensive camera using the
most popular film format in the country at the time-l20 size film. At that
point, China was just beginning to open its doors to the world, and
photography was skyrocketing in popularity. Unfortunately for the Holga, no
one could have predicted the enormous impact 35mm film would have on the
Chinese market, and after only a few short years the Holga was ovenun by ib
smaller format competitors.
But by then, word of this special all-plastic camera had spread west, and ib
popularity was growing. Tens of thousands of cameras were sold in twenty
different countries with almost no change in its original design - a remakable
achievement of design stability. Then in 2000, the original Holga 120S was
joined by the 120SF version which featured a built-in flash.
By 2001, the Holga's 20th anniversary, over half a million cameras had been
sold worldwide. Since then, photographers have purchased tens of
thousands more. In the same year, research found over one hundred Internet
pages supporting, discussing and displaying photos from the Holga. A micro
industry had sprung up, and people began making a living modifying and
accessorizing Holga cameras.
Today, the affay of cameras and
accessories available from Holga
reflects ib continued popularity among
photographers. Joining the latest
models, including the 120N, FN and
CFN are the famous colored Holgas that
make up the "Holgawood" collection,
the fantastically wide-angled Holga 120
WPC, and the Holga 3-D Stereo
Cameras.
What's in a name? Ouite a lot,  it seems,      Wiflt ib plastic, low-contast lens, ffie Holga
because many people still wonder     can change how we interpret what we see
                                                                           in a photognph. Photo by Sherry Lee.
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. --         Gf  Ftqnglgf    . *:-E-.I                                             E8L,lq:atlry\l

H()LGA SPEGIFICATICDNS

 Gamera Name                        Hot  Bulb      II                   Flash Shoe Exposure
 120 FORMAT

 Holga 120N                     Hot Shoe     Yes      Yes

 Holga 120FN                             Built-ln      No       Yes

Holga 120CFN                          Built-ln.      No       Yes

Holga 120PC Pinhole              None       No       Yes

Holga 120WPC Pinhole            None       No       Yes

Holga 120-3D Stereo                  Built-ln      No       Yes

Holga 120PC-3D Stereo Pinhole     None       No       Yes

 Classic Holga 120S               Hot Shoe     Yes      No

Classic Holga 120SF                  Built-ln      No       No

35MM FORMAT

Holga 135                      Hot Shoe     Yes       Yes
Holga 135 BC                   Hot Shoe     Yes      Yes

Holga 135PC Pinhole              None       No       Yes

Holga 35MF                             Built-ln      No       No

Holga 35AFX                           Built-ln      No       No

.Holga     CFN has a color wheel allowing the flash to be red, yellow, blue or white.
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I
I   tripod      Masks'   Mount    (cm)     Batteries     Gonstruction

  Brass 6x4.5, 6x6     None           Plastic          Active
  Brass 6x4.5,6x6    Two M          Plastic          Active
 . Brass 6x4.5,6x6    Two M          Plastic          Active
  Brass  None       None           Plastic          Active
  Brass 6x7,6x9      None           Plastic          Active
  Brass Dual 6x6      Four M          Plastic          Active
  Brass Dual 6x6      None           Plastic          Active
  None  6x4.5       None           Plastic         Inactive
  None  6x4.5      Two M          Plastic         Inactive



    Brass       None       None           Plastic          Active"
    s,.rr*      Soft filter      None           Plastic          ActiveI
    Brass       None       None           Plastic          ActiveI{
    Brass       None      Two AA Plastic (Glass Lens) Inactive
    Brass       None      Two M  Plastic (Glass Lens) Inactive
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fT.i-
                                                           lIlll.,fq:QIIH{

where the name "Holga" came from. The answer is related to the Holga's Far
Eastern heritage. The name is derived from the Cantonese term "h0 gwong",
which translates into English as "very bright". A nip and a tuck and a Western
twist, and you get the Western name: Holga.
SUMMAIIY C,F FEATI.'IIES
All versions of the Holga camera are essentially made entirely from plastic, with
the exception of the shutter assembly. The original models accept 120-size
film and are capable of shooting in either 6x4.5cm or 6x6cm format, while the
35mm and pinhole versions produce anywhere from standard 35mm to huge
6x12cm ultra-wide images, depending on the model. The plastic lens on the
original Holga has an approximate focal length of 60mm, and has a switch
designed to change the aperture from roughly f/8 to about f/11. (Note:
According t0 some, the two f-stops are so close that they are indistinguishable
from one another. We leave it up to you to decide.) The shutter speed is fixed
at approximately 1/1 00th of a second and operates on a spring. The depth of
field ranges from 3 feet to infini$. 0f course, being a Holga, these statistics
can vary from camera to camera, as no two Holgas are exactly alike.
Since its introduction in 1981, a total of ten medium format variations have
been released. The manufacturer has ceased production of the Classic
and Woca glass-lens models, but with a little searching, they can still be
found. There were also two limited-edition 35mm film models, which have
been similarly phased out and replaced with newer versions described in
a later chapter.
CHOOSING FILn,t
Because a Holga's two approximate aperture settings are identified as
"sunny" and "not s0 sunny", much of the Holga's speed flexibility  is in the
film. You can shoot under almost any lighting condition by choosing the
closest speed film beforehand and pushing or pulling it as necessary.
Black and white C-41 films are a good choice because they have excellent
latitude and can be conveniently developed at any color photo finishing
location. But, conventional black and white films allow you to use your
own favorite processing methods.  lf you have never processed film
before, this is a great opportunity for you to try...it's not as hard as you
might think. Easy, step-by-step instructions can be found online at
www.f reestylephoto. bizlf   i  I m processinghowto. ph p.
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0n a sunny day, use a '160, 200 or 400 lS0 B&W or color negative film. 0n
 gloomy days or late in the afternoon, an 800 speed film might be necessary
 and near sunset or indoors, look for a 1600 or 3200 lS0 film.
 slide films are much less forgiving when pushed, but you can get great results
 in the right situation. 200 lsO slide film usually works in bright sunny
 weather, but for average conditions a 400 speed film is still best. Tungsten
 slide film has more latitude and suffers less from reciprocity failure than
 daylight balanced film; it can also provide an interesting blue tint  if you choose
 not to filter-correct for daylight.
FOIIMAT
 Out of the box, a standard medium format Holga has
 the 6x6cm (12 frames) mask in place. This mask will
 produce square images with sharply defined borders.
The    camera             also              comes with                        a 6x4.5cm                                        (16 frames)
 mask,      which                 will produce                       a vertical                                    rectangular                                        image  -
 with the same sharp border. But, to get the most out
 of the Holga's (in)famous vignetting, light leaks and
edge distortion features, we recommend removing the
mask entirely, so that the image goes out to nearly the
 very edge of the film. (Note: when removing the mask,     Str'a"t & Di""n-l                                                                 I it is a good idea to carefully examine the area that themask covered for any small protruding edges of ffiFe  =3reet(1m)                                                      I plastic that may scratch or damage the film. While this                                                                    6 reet (2m)  |                                             l+f =occurs very rarely,  it's a quick fix with a hobby or nail   I                                          |
                                                                       ,,rlr* = 18 reet (6m)
                                                                                                                                                            |file, or some tape to cover up the offending edge.)           |
                                                                 =30feet(10m)lWith firm downward pressure, move the format arrow  l1\       to infinity
                                                                                                                                                                               Ion the camera back from 16 to 12 so that the frame   I
count on the film will be accurate. Particularly in earlier models, this can
require some coaxing and a screwdriver or other tool may help the transition,
but be careful not to damage the red window Be sure to remember to move
the arrow back to the 16 position if you wish to use the vertical 6x4.5cm mask.
FOCUSING A HOLGA
A Holga has four focus marks on the lens banel. simply rotate the banel to
the setting that most closely corresponds to your situation. Feel free to use
your own setting that might fall between these icons.
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t{ri Er -E                                          lISl,Gll.y1r311s

ETPOSURE TIFS
The lens 0n a Holga is fairly low contast (it is plastic, after all) and tends to
lose dehil in fie shadow areas. For B&W negative film, fie rule of ftumb is
to expose for he shadows and develop for fie highlighb. Even color negative
film can benefit from fie habit of over exposing slighfly. Witt slide film  it is
best to be as accurate as possible, so use a light meter.
I.OADING A HOT.GA
lf you own a "Classic" Holga 1205 or Woca series camera, you will want to
have ready a folded-up piece of thin cardboard, maybe an inch square. Part
of a film box works well.

*,f,,r;,;nI
As witr all film, load and unload out of direct sunlight preferably in subdued light.
   1. Remove the back by sliding down fie metal clamps on eifter side of
      fie camera. Looking in from fie back side of the camera, new film is
     loaded on he left side. Make sure that fie take up spool is on fte
       right side.
   2. Place fie spool of film into the left side of the camera witt the leading
     edge pointing to fie right.
   3. Break and remove the seal securing the film.
   4. Wifi your left humb resting lightly on fie film, pull out the paper film
      leader until you can insert $e tapered edge into the take-up spool.
   5. Spool the film wifi a couple of tums of fie take-up knob. Keep your
     thumb lightly on the film to prevent slack.
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6. lf your camera does not have foam padding behind the spools, keep
     your thumb on the film and insed the piece of cardboard between the
     bottom of the film spool and the camera.
   7. Replace the camera back and slide the clips back into place. You may
     want to use some tape to keep the back in place. See the section on
     Taping Up A Holga, below for tips.
UNLOADING A HOLGA
   1. After shooting the last frame (16 frames in 6x4.5 format, 12 frames  in
    6xO format), turn the take-up knob until the film and paper have
     completely rolled onto the spool.
   2. Open the camera back in subdued light and remove the film. Be sure
      that the film is wound tightly around the take-up spool, then moisten
     the tape and wrap it around the film.
   3. Switch the empty spool to the right side of the camera for the next roll
     you shoot.
TAPING UP A HOLGA
Many Holga owners look forward to the
light leak feature of the camera, as the
streaks of light can change{r even
reinterpret-a photograph. The most
notorious light leak on the camera
comes from the film counter window,
since the red color is not suited to
today's panchromatic films. Some
people don't mind, but for the rest of us,         The Holga's optical impertecilons
a piece of opaque tape used as a flap         enhance lens effects like flare.
solves this problem easily.                              Photo by Michelle Bates.
There are those of us who prefer to expel the pesky light leaks altogether
by taping up the entire camera. Howevet the judicious application  of tape
at key positions can nearly eliminate unwanted exposure and make film
loading much easier. (l,lote: there is no guarantee that even the total
mummification  of a Holga will eliminate every light leak. There are reports
of leaking Holgas that were taped everywhere but on the lens.)
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'.r .r   :           f rIilllrFWgEI:ELr{dl-SlFEIl        t -                                                    G,.I'-F.-\.--L
I--f-     lrr-
    The best tape for this job is a black gaffer's tape or black photographer's
    masking tape. Both of these are found in most well-stocked photo retailers,
     studio lighting providers, and even good hardware stores. These tapes stay
      in place, are re-positionable, pull off cleanly, and do not leave a sticky mess
                                 0n warm days.
                       LEAI( REIU|EDTATICDN
                                   There are no guarantees, but if you are
                                        lucky, your Holga will leak light like a
                                  sieve. Should you prefer to stem your
                                   good fortune, we have six ways to do  it.
                              Camera Back
                                Run pieces of black tape along the seam
                                 where the back fits onto the body.
                                  MetalClips
         The Hotga can be ideatfor producng COVer the metal ClipS that SeCUre the
      #:#:':;#i:tr'#I:,",1#il, cameraback. This wirr prevent them from
                                                falling off of the camera-especially when
    you use the camera strap. Some have used Velcro strips instead of tape to
     hold the clips in place, resulting in easier access while changing film and less
    tape residue  left on fingers.
    Behind the 6x4.5 Mask
         lf you have a standard 120 Holga camera, removing the 6x4.5 mask reveals
    two holes above the lens that can cause light leaks. A single piece of tape
    can cover them both.
     Film Gounter Window
    Cover the window with a piece of tape. Fold the tape at the end to create a
    convenient pullflap.
    Bag the Camera
    Keep the camera  in your camera bag to minimize the impact of unwanted light.
     Painting the Inside of the Gamera
    Although the inside of the camera is black, it is a semi-shiny, almost lustrous
     black, which can reflect any unwanted light that manages to make  it inside.
    This can be countered by painting the interior of the camera matte black,
    which cuts down on reflections.
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lJltL-    a    -r.rr-r"        ----+                      lI     Loose Film
     Unlike 35mm film, 120 film spools have no
     lighttight canister to protect them from
     exposure; the only guard against the sun is
       its thin paper backing. lf your film is not
      rolled tightly as you shoot, light can sneak in
     under the loose paper. lf you have an older
     Holga, or if your newer model is not rolling
     the film tightly, refer to the section Loading A
     Holga on page 8.                                  A luclE break: buckled film
                                                                          created  ffiis serendipitious dynamic.
                                                                          Photo bv PeniNsuven   Fl-AsHEs & sruDlo srFoBEs
     The Holga 120S, 120N and 35mm Holgas all have standard hot shoes, so any
     simple non-dedicated standard mount camera flash will work. Because of the
      Holga's limited exposure adjustment,  it is best to use an adjustable automatic
      flash. Simply set your flash to match your film's lS0 at f/8 and shoot away.
     To shoot with studio strobes, we recommend using an on-camera flash and
     equipping your strobes with photo slaves. You can also use a hot shoeto-PC
      adapter which allows you to hook up directly to an off-camera flash or strobe
     pack with a sync cord.
                                                       the                                                            flash                                                    triggers                  version                             of                             the Holga                                camera      (Note: Every
                                                                    to pause                                                                 twice -in betweenonce at                                           Be                                                         sure                                           release!                      and                        once                                      at shutter            depression      shutter
      or you risk damaging the flash or strobes.)
                                   Holga Manual Electonic Flash
                          The perfect accessory for your Holga
                             camera. This manual flash features a
                                      guide number ol22, recycling time of 6 to
                                    8 seconds, includes a PC cord for use with
                                      other cameras and a locking ring on the
                                        hot shoe mount.
                                 Holgon MF Flash
                                         fur Holgas with a bulb setting, the Holgon
                          MF is a cool little strobe that fits 0n any
                                        hot shoe.  lt acts as a regular flash (guide
                                          gel on          Multiple                 exposure                            a                                   colored                                   wiffi                                 number 21 at 100 lS0) until you switch to            Holga                                   to                                   create                   Flash work                                 dynamic         the
               imagery. Photo: M. Tullberg.      MF mode. Then, each time you press the
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.f   -''.lr[.     fTil                                                  tlll,frl:aq-rir

shutter it keeps popping about twice a second for as long as you hold the
shutter down. lmagine the multiple image possibilities. There is also a
bounce head which tilts up to soften shadows.
MULTIPLE ETPOSURES
The Holga shutter works independently from the film advance, which allows
you to press the shutter as many times as you like on the same frame.
Besides the creative door this opens, a key technical benefit is that you can
build up exposures  in low light situations. Be sure to use a tripod to minimize
camera shake.





 Yw can advance the film a liftle at a tine to create multiple-image panoranas. Photo by Kit Frost

Long exposures are easily achieved when using the bulb setting built into the
Holga 120N, FN, CFN, 120-3D, WPC and 35mm cameras. Simply mount the
camera on a tripod and set the exposure switch to the "8" position. Push
down the shutter release button and keep  it down as long as desired. Then,
release the button to close the shutter to complete the picture taking cycle.
(l{ob: use of a tripod and the Holga Cable Release is highly recommended to
reduce camera shake and blur. When finished, remember to set the "8"
exposure switch back to the "N" position or you may end up witt a roll of
pictures  full of motion.)
TODIFYINO & PERSONALTZING YOUR HOI.GA
There are many things you can do to modify a Holga. Among other things,
      heard                       of                   a "Holgablad"we've           rumor
                 more                              practical -changes3 Holgayoumatedcan make.to a Hasselblad Planar            are             a fewlens. Here

Lens Hood
This is an easy and cheap mod to reduce lens flare. Just get some tape and
dark paper, and fashion a ring that you fit snugly on to your lens barrel.
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F a TrllilFJr.rt..  -\.rr-D,..r-r.--                                                                                                                          Itlllrl
                            There are also custom-designed hood        Ia
                                    patterns that you can download from the   H
           tsI                                    Internet.
    q
                              Gustom Masks
        13                          This is another simple mod: making a
     6                          custom mask to create your own unique
        hs                              border for your images. Again, take some
                                dark paper (or thin cardboard) measuring       8:
       =t                              about 8x7cm, fold it down to about 6x7cm,
          Low-tech success: An art student    cut or rip out the center in whatever pattern
          used a Holga in a place where   | 20   you wish, and then tape the whole thing to
                fitm and fancy bafteries were the interiOr Of the Camera where the plaStiC
       scace.fhefitmwasprocexedand maSk nOrmally gOeS. (t{Ote: lf yOU haVe a              printed in a janitoiatctose'                                  Holga 120FN ortrru, you will need to tape
      the batteries down to keep them in place without the plastic mask.)
     Wide-Angle Lenses
      Coincidentally, some inexpensive wide-angle lenses originally designed as
     add-on accessories for compact digital cameras can be mated to a Holga
      as well.  lf the lens attachment  is almost identical in diameter to the Holga's
       lens barrel, the lens can usually be taped to the front
       of the banel quite easily. You will need to examine
     the lens attachment and your Holga beforehand to
     see if they match up... in fact, if you're lucky you
    may discover that the lens attachment can screw
      directly onto the barrel itself, no tape necessary!
                                                       a       (l{ote: since the Holga is -                                       technically, at least -
      rangefinder camera, you will not be able to see exactly
    what the wide-angle image looks like through the
      viewfinder. Therefore, some practice and guesswork    Holga 1205 wih a wide-                                                                           angle accessry onginaily
      are in order when first starting out.)                       fu a digibl point-and-shnt.
     Adding Tnditional Photographic Filters to your Holga
      Even though there are various Holga filters to choose from, you may want to
        utilize traditional photographic filters that you already own. Holgas do not
     have filter threads so you will need to make a mild modification to fie lens.
     The diameter of a Holga lens is 46mm. Find a 46-49mm step-up ring. Hold
     your Holga tightly and in a forceful motion, twist the 46mm ring into the
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pliable lens plastic. Keep the ring as straight as possible and twist  it in as far
as you can. Apply a seal 0f hot glue, and you have a permanent 49mm filter
thread. Feel free to add more filter rings on top in various sizes to
accommodate any filter or lens adapter you already own. Again, this
modification is permanent and will not allow you to use the various sets of
Holga-specific filters, so have more than one Holga handy.
Stereoscopic
Mounting two Holgas a few hand widths apart on a board can add new
                                   Set your board witt a 1/4-20 tripoddimension to your photos - literally!
mount (also called a "quarter-twenty" mount)and shoot everything twice, once
with each camera. Seen together under a stereoscopic viewer, your double
photos willjump  off the table in 3-D. Parallax has never been more fun! This
works with both color and black and white film, and  if you have a light table,
fien slide film works, too.
How far apart your cameras need to be depends on how far away your subject
is. The furfter away it is, fie further apart your cameras need to be. Use large
rubber bands to mount your cameras so that you can easily adjust fie distance
between ftem. 0r,  if you don't want to deal witt such a setup, you can always
pick up fte Holga 120-3D stereo camera, s0 you can explore fie world of
stereo photography  with a single convenient (albeit very wide) camera body.
Holgas Adapted to Accept 35mm Film
The beauty of using 35mm film in your medium format Holga is twofold. First,
you get an image much longer than the standard 35mm area. Second, you
expose the entire section of film, including the sprocket holes.  lt is a type of
                     image unlike any other, instantly recognizable upon
                       viewing. There are two ways to adapt your medium
                      format Holga for 35mm use. One is the following
                       simple modification. First, cut foam inserts to center
                  and secure the cartridge of a roll of 35mm film
                    where the roll of 120 film normally goes. The idea is
                      to make sure the film stays centered and travels
                           straight across the film plane behind the lens.
                  Now, pull the leader of the 35mm film out and
                          stretch  it across to the 120mm take-up spool. Tape
                        the film securely to the spool. Wind the film, making
                    sure the film is centered on the take-up spool.     Photo by 0liver Tan
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t-I'-D   F'--           ---:
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      Replace the camera back and shoot. Now come the interesting parts...
      With your film loaded, you must completely tape up the film counter window
     because there is no protective paper backing on 35mm film. lf you
i     accidentally leave the film counter window uncovered, you will expose your     film-and usually not in a good way.
      0bviously, there are no numbers for you to count exposures with. You will
     have to estimate how far to advance the film after each shot. lt involves
      counting the clicks as you wind the film: about 34 clicks per each 6x6cm
     frame. After you process your own film you will notice an increasingly wider
     gap between frames. lf you feel like compensating, you can reduce the
     number of clicks by 1 for every three exposures.
    The second method is to simply buy the Holga 35mm Conversion  Kit.
     Howeve6 the kit differs from the modification just listed in a very significant
     way: it makes thc camera shoot in a standard 35mm frame-in other words,
      the sprocket holes and panorama effects will not happen with the kit.
     Whether you're using the kit or making your own mod, after you are done
      shooting (i.e. when the film will no longer advance), you will need to extract
      your creation. For this we have two words for you: total darkness. You need
     a changing bag or a darkroom because your film is outside of its canister.  lf
      you plan to process the film yourself, simply cut the film from both ends (the
      canister and the spool). Load the film directly onto a 35mm developing reel
     and drop it into your tank. Lid on? 0K, lights on.  lf you don't plan on
      processing the film yourself, then retract  it back into the film canister before
      taking  it to your local lab.
      Personalizing the Chassis
       Until recently, the popular saying was that "Holgas come in any color you
      want, as long as it's black", The "Holgawood"  line of colored cameras has
     changed that, but this hasn't stopped people from further personalizing their
      Holgas in fun and eclectic ways. After all, your Holga is not a temple,  it is a
     work in progress! So, fear no glue stains and go all out in your quest for
      unique photo fashion.
      Limitations? Your own imagination and the inventory of your local supply
       stores, hardware stores or swap meets. Standard equipment? Spray paint,
      fingernail polish, stickers, fake fur, bits of plastic, swap meet jewelry, Kewpie
       doll hair... the possibilities are endless, Three words of advice: Hot-Glue-Gun.
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HOLGA PO]AIIOID BAGK
For many, this is the next step towards becoming a full-fledged Holgamaniac.
Long sought after by Holga users, the aesthetic values of instant film
matches that of the Holga camera perfectly. The Polaroid back for the Holga
was designed for Polaroid 3.25x4.24 pack films, and currently takes Fuji's
FP line of instant films.  lt exposes an approximate 3" x 3" image area, and
is custom built to fit all Holga standard medium format cameras, installing
easily onto each of them within seconds. The Polaroid back comes with a
6xG film mask, a .3x diopter (which adjusts the Holga's film plane to
accommodate the Polaroid back) and an external viewfinder for precise
composition within the frame. When used properly and with imagination,  it
becomes an amazing way to take instant pictures.
Instant Films lhat Arc Holga-Gompatible
 Film              Speed
   Polaroid 664 B&W        (rsO 100)
   Polaroid 667 B&W        (rso 3000)
   Polaroid 672 B&W        (rso 400)
   Polaroid 669 Color        (rso 80)
   Polaroid 690 Color        (rso 100)
    Fuji FP 100C Color        (rso 100)
    Fuji FP 1008 B&W        (rso 100)               (tularoidThe slyleanaingback)Holgarcidfor the ftolga
    Fuji FP 30008 B&W       (rsO 3000)                                     ... a pertM painng.
HOLGA LENS & FTLTEH ATTAGHME]UTS
Expand your Holga universe and spur your creativity with the Holga Filter
Holder. The holder fits like a cowling over the lens banel.  lt slips on easily,
stays on firmly and is removable...no  glue, hooks or tape needed. There are
a lot of complex do-it-yourself solutions out there, but why make your life
more complex? That's so un-Holga.
0nce you have your filter holder in place, new possibilities become available:
Color Filter Set
The color filter set includes red, yellow, blue and green filters and can be used
to create bold, vibrant images. They can also adjust the contrast of black and
white photographs. In true Holga fashion, there are n0 contrast or color-
 conection numbers on the filters.
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       Split lmage Filbr Lens Set
     The Split lmage lens set features three prism-like inserb fiat create
      remarkable abstract multiples.
     Each lens in this set will surprise and please any photographer as it splib,
     repeab and blends in tohlly unique ways. The set includes a four-facet lens
      with center focus, a three-facet vertical lens and a three-facet pyramid lens.
      Soft Sunound Fifter Set
      Wifi a clear center, each of fiese four filters has a specially designed pattem
     hat enhances he Holga's natural "focus vignetting". Drawing the eye toward
      fie center of an image, trese filters are excellent for unique documenhry
       porfrait or fine art style images. Set comes wi$ a red, yellow, blue and
      neutal density filter in soft-sunound.
   HOLGA CABLE RELEASE
     A must have for every Holga! This custom adapter fib snugly over fte lens of
      your camera allowing you to use a cable release.  tt also does not interfere
        wittr the fripod mount and Bulb setting switch on the Holga 120N, FN, CFN,
     120-3D and Holga pinholes. In addition, the cable release can be used
      separately from the adapter on fie Holga 35mm camera.
    HOI..GA FTSHEYE LENSES
      Yes, you read conectly: two real fisheye lens athchmenb  for the Holga-in
      boft glass and plastic! The glass lens is a three-element item fiat fib over
     the lens banel of your Holga, providing nearly 180 degrees of view in a
      circulal heavily distorted image. The lens
       includes two mounting rings - one for regular
      shooting, and one for use with fie Polaroid
     back. Mounting ftreads on the front of the
      lens allow filters to be used as well, although
       this reduces the image area slightly. Focusing
       is from as close as 1 cm to as far away as
       infinity. Since this lens is a glass one, it
    produces images that some Holga
     connoisseurs might consider to be "too
      sharp", which is why Holga has also come out                                                            Afblga Fsheye Lens changa
      with a plastic lens that works much the same        the entire nature of the inage.
      as fie glas one, only with a softer image.           Hntu by MillnelTullberg.
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    47mm. The 135BC version adds even more: an internal mask that
         partially covers the shutter, which makes the resulting image even softer
      than normal. The 135PC is the pinhole version of this camera, which is
       described below.
   THE HOI-GA PINHOLE CA|UIEIIAS
                                  The easiest way for anyone to get into
                                pinhole photography, the Holga
                                           pinholes are essentially a Holga 120 or
                                            '135                                       body with the lens removed and
                                          replaced with a pinhole. The lensless
                                   body produces infinite depth of field,
                                  meaning that under most conditions,
                                         everything is reasonably sharp and
                                         detailed. And, with the addition of the
                                   Holga 120WPC and 120PC-3D models,
      you can make super-wide and stereo pinhole images that go far beyond
       anything shot with a standard camera. Since pinhole is literally the starting
        point for all photography that followed, the Holga Pinhole is a great (and
        inexpensive!)tool  for stripping photography down to its absolute basics. A
        tripod and cable release are highly recommended when using the Holga
       Pinhole, as exposure times will be much longer than those used in
        "regular"





         HOLGA CAIf,ERAS    photography.flSTEIIEO
          It's back to the future as Holga taps the cutting edge photo technology of
       the century... the 19th century! Recalling the days before movies and radio
      became the rage, the 120-3D Holga produces analog stereo images that
      pop out in true 3-D when looked at through Holga's special viewer. lt's a
       great way to see your images move beyond the two-dimensional confines
        of paper, as well as stop people in their tracks when they see you with this
       wide-body monster! Available in both standard and pinhole models.
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  GIUOTES
     "Take your Holga out for a ride. Stop often. Play."
       -  Kit Frost, Professional Photographer
    "Mechanically the Holga is simplicity itself. The nature of the Holga
    places emphasis on seeing, thinking, and intencting with the
     environment  at hand."
       - Joe Ostraff. Professor. BYU
    "The Holga summons up Dadaist traditions of chance, surprise, and
     willingness to see what can happen."
          Robert Hirsch, Photographic Historian, in his book Photographic Possibilities      -
           (with J. Valentino. Focal Press 200'l)
    "As for the Holga, I like using  it and making my students use  it, because
        it encounges the photognpher to concentrate on his/her relationship
     with the subject wifrrout technology getting in the way. The resulting
    images depend on the photognpher's presence (of mind and body)."
      - Lesley Krane, educator at California State University, Northridge
    'As the Koordinator of the kappy Kamera Competition,  l've seen thou
    sands of images produced with this camen.  I am always awed by the
     variety of images that can be produced with such minimal equipment."
      - Sandy Carrion, Coordinator  of the Krappy Kamera Competition.
    "lstillhave the first Holga  I ever
    bought back in 1988.  I loved  it then
    and still do, especially with black
    and white film."
       - Julia Dean. founder of the Julia Dean
          Photographic Workshops.
      "l love my Holgas and I have eight of
    them. As a designer and aft director;
        I have used Holga cameras on many
    photo shoob and clients love the
     different effecE!"
         Randy Thomas, Founder,      -                                                            Both detail and saturation are well within         Randy Thomas Design Agency.                                                          a Holga's abilities. Photo by Kit Frost.
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   I  HOLGA HELP (FAGI)
       0:  Can I use slide film in my Holga?
       A:   Sure. You just need to be more careful with your exposure estimates as slide film is
a            less forgiving than print film. Feeling adventurous? Cross-process  your slide film.
         What is the easiest film to use as a beginner Holga owner?,0:
       A:   C-41 type B&W film is great for beginners.  lt is more forgiving, comes in lS0 400
           speed, and you can take  it to a 1 -hour lab so you can see your results right away,

       0:  Can I choose a focusing range other than what is shown?
       A:    Yes, by placing your focus point somewhere between the distance icons.
          However, the options available cover most of the bases. The minimum focus range
              will always be about three feet.
       0:  My pictures are dark in the corners. What am I doing wrong?
       A:   Nothing. This effect is called vignetting and is a natural parl of a Holga's optics.
                    lf you prefer to minimize this effect, make sure to use the 6x4.5 mask.
      0:  My pictures are more than fuzzy, they are blurry. What happened?
       A:   Your film may be loose and not flush with the film plane. Check to make sure that
           your cardboard wedge is in place and working properly.

I
      0:  Can I use my Holga FN or CFN with studio strobes?
       A:   Yes. Set up your lighting with a photo slave.  lt triggers your strobes when the
          camera's built-in flash goes off. Just make sure that the slaves are close enough
            to pick up the camera's flash,

      0:  Can I use infrared film in a Holga?
      A:    Yes, but the impact of light leaks can be more pronounced on infrared films,
          You should make sure your Holga doesn't leak light by taping up all the seams.
      0:    I've had my Holga for a long time, but now my pictures are way overexposed.
          What's wrong?
         Fl.A.   Your Holga's shutter spring may have finally worn out...time for a new Holga!
I
           But don't throw away your old one-feel free to tinker with it and come up with
           exciting new mods of your own!
        Can I enter my Holga pictures in photo contesb?
           Absolutely. Holga images have become increasingly accepted in photo
          competitions. The most prolific is probably the annual Krappy Kamera competition,ili   held by the Soho Gallery in New York, For details visit www.sohophoto.com.
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