Film cameras
ICA "IDEAL" CAMERAS BOOKLET Product booklet
Product booklet for ICA "IDEAL" CAMERAS BOOKLET. 17 pages in German. Read the original PDF, download or print a copy without registration.
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- Brand
- Ica
- Model / document
- ICA "IDEAL" CAMERAS BOOKLET
- Document type
- Product booklet
- Language
- German
- Pages
- 17
- File size
- 1.2 MB
- Category
- Film cameras
- Document date
- Not specified in catalog
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Page 2 · Read text
Instructions
for using the
((IDEAL"
CAMERAS
No. lll
for plates 6,5 ><9 cm
No.246
for plates 9 x 12 cm
and film packs
9ca
Company Dresden-A.
Germany ':-Jl__View original page 2Page 4 · Read text
The
Ica"Ide al"Carneras
I D E A L l l l . F o r 6 t l r x . 9 c m p l a t e s
(approximately 2t[x5 r/.2inches) and 2t ta><Jttu
inch film packs.
I D E A L 246. For 9 x. 12 cm plates
( approximately 3 rl2 x 4.et, inches ) and film
'''rcks 3rl4 x 4t r inch plates and film packs
may be used if preferred, by ineans of kits.
S=i-'fe I Ioin- sr 'r-2ITlera
----flSe-rtl .o uf ltc w
- yourself j ust
a rcI r read the first
Dar nsii ..ilons ("s far as ,,General
Sugg,.-, L :ti "e you load the holders
or attempt any pictures. Become familiar
r,:,tiththe vcri,\rrs movements and adjustments,
with rh: i:ing of the sh utter and the
nnders and the operation of focusing, etc.,
-,:fore loading or exposing any plates or film,
and it is more than likery thai your actual
progress in picturermaking will be more rapid,
and that you will waste less material.
Don't use force. In working any of the
movements of the camera or shutter it is not
necessary to use force. The mechanism of
the instrument is adj usted and tested so tha t
all parts work smoothly and easiry. If this
doesn't seem to be so when you first take
hold of the camera, the chances are you areView original page 4Page 5 · Read text
not "taking hold" in the right way. The
camera is strongly made, but forcing is apt to
cause damage.
To open the front of the eamera, presson
the concealed button, under the handle of
Ideal 1ll, and on the side of the camerajust
below end of handle in the'caseof the ldeal246.
The front then springs out, and should be
drawn clear down until it catcheswith a click.
The standard, bearing lens and shutter, is ex,
tended by grasping the two knobs'sg" (page9).
Press the two knobs toward each other and
pull the standard out on its track until the
front locks.
Focusing. The lens is now in position
for photographing objects at a-distance of
100 feet or more, and if you look ai thb--_..-.
pointer over the focusing scale, you will see
that i lb. letters- "r-f " -'hich
ffiiil-Er',r;8ffi---ocu'srrrf*er"* ob;."i
nearer than 100 feet is accomplished by
turning the focusing screw "z". This focusing,
screw is locked when the camera is first
opened, and before it can be turned mutf
be released by pulling out the focusing lock
"!". This may also be accomplished by
pushing the fbcusing scale itself toward
the track on which the standard slides. The
focusing screw is turned until the pointer
over scale indicates the number of feet which
the object is distant from the camera,or until
the image as viewed on the ground glass
shows the focus to be as desired. The focus,
ing screw can then be locked by pushing in
the focusing lock. When the lens has been
racked out as far at it will go, starting from
the infinity mark on the scale, as before
mentioned, it may be extended still farther
by pulling outh the focusing lock '),", then
www.orphancameras.comView original page 5Page 6 · Read text
grasping the two knobs .,g", under the lens,
pressing them toward each other and pulling
out the standard as far as it will go, or by
turning the focusing screw ,.2",'
The bellows extension of the Ideal is
sufficient to permit objects being photoz
graphed slightly larger than natural size.
In the case of convertible lenses which
, admit of the use of the single combination,
the bellows extensions is sufficient to admit of
focusing on objects only a few feet away
with the single combination. There is a
' pointer on the side opposite the focusing
scale to facilitate focusing with the single
element of the convertible lens. On the
right hand side of the bed of the camera there
is a mark ever which this pointer rests when
the single lens is focused for infinity (oo).
The ground-g1ass focusing screen is fittedir**.'.*
with a collapsible hood which opens by
pressing down on a spring latch at one side.
The focusing screen is held in position by
the back catch and is released by pressing
in on button "&". The plateholder or film
pack adapter fits in place of the focusing
screen and is held in position in the same 'When
manner. inserting either holder or
focusing screen, be sure that both sides of the
holder or screen are secured,
The shutter. As you look squarely at the
front of the shutter (page6), you will seea little
dial "f" bearingthe letters"T. B. I." (,,2.8.M.")
signifying respectively,,Time", .,Bulb,, and
"Instantaneous". At the side of the shutter
is the trigger or {inger release ,,A,,, the
socket ".8", into which is screwed the end
of wire release (also called ,,cable" or ,,antiz
nous" release) which may be used inter,
changeably with the trigger. The shutterView original page 6Page 7 · Read text
does not require to be set for "time" or
"bulb" exposures. When the letter "T" is
at the top, opposite white mark on body of
shutter, one pressureon trigger or wire release
opens the shutter, and a second pressure
closes it. When the letter "B" is opposite
the white mark, pressure on either trigger or
cable will open the shutter, which will remain
open as long as the pressure is maintained,
closing again when the pressureis withdrawn
or released. For an instantaneous exposure,
the procedure is to set the dial al "^/", press
the setting lever "C", down until it catches,
set the speed dial "D" So, that the figure
denoting the required exposure is opposite
the notch at top of dial; and make the ex,
posure by a single pressure on either release.
On the speed dial the figure "1" stands for
one second| "2" means one, half second;
"5" means one,{ifth second, etc. When dial
at left of lens is at "I" or "8" the setting
lever "C" is locked and cannot be turned down.
'When setting lever is down, this dial "I" is
locked and cannot be turned. r
Tfie s/ops. Lens openings are called "stops"
'diaphragms.or They are regulated by a
lever, one end of which is at the lower edge
of the shutter and the other end of which
is at the top, back of the speed dial. Either
end of this lever may be moved to regulate
the lens opening, whichever end may be
reached more conveniently. The figures on
the top rim of shutter, "6.3", "9", "L2.5",
etc., or "8", "11", "1a" etc., as the case may
be, are so calculated that each number,
starting with the lowest, denotes a stop that
requires half the exposure of that bearing
the next higher number. For instance,stop 9
is enough smaller than 6.5 so that it allows
www.orphancameras.comView original page 7Page 8 · Read text
E
only half as m u ch light to pass through it
in a given time-therefore stop 9 necessitates
an exposure twice as long as stop 6.j to
allow the sarne amount of light to reach the
film. (A.r exception to what has just been
said in regard to doubling the exposure for
each successively higher numbered stop, is
rvhen the largest is 6.8 and the next is g
Stop 8 requires only fifty per cent. longer
exposure than stop 6.8 ). These are ,,F" stop
numbers. That is to say, th e numbers are
denominators of fractions of which the focal
length of the lens is the numerator. perhaps
that is enough to say about stops at present.
They will be referred to again later. Lever (.E"
regulates the stops.
The finder. Th e wcll , known "brilliant"
gt reflecting type of finder needs no special
description or explanation. when the camera
is first opened the finder is in position for
making a vertical view. It turns on a pivot
for horizontal views. Ttrke care tlmt it zb
returned to lhc vrrticar position b{ore attempting
to close the camera.
Ideal No. 246 has also, i' addition to the
reflecting finder above referred to, a direct
vision finder, which consists of a wire frameView original page 8Page 9 · Read text
at the front and a peep, sight at the back
of the camera. The u'ire frame, when the
camera is first opened, iies flat against the
front of the shutter. It is hinged at one
side, and to be used rnust be swung half
way around to the position. At the rear of
the camera, oh the side directly behind the
u'ire frame as extended, is the sight. In use,
the camera is held so that the eve is directly
back of and as close as possible to the peepz
hole. Then what is seen through the wire
frame is the vierv that will be included in
the picture.
The rising front. This molrement is coltz
trolled by the knob " h" . Turn this knob
and cbserve that by so doing the lens is
raised or lowered. This adjustment is used
to eliminate foreground or to include more
of a high object like a building or a tree,
without tilting the camera. It is employed
principally in photographing buildings and
architectural subjects where tilting the camera
would result in distortion of parallel vertical
lines in the picture. The lens is in normal
position when a rvhite dot on the front of
standard which bears the risin g front scre\r'
is directly opposite a sinrilar rvhite dot on
the edge of the lens,"board", in the case
of Ideal 1 I l, and a pointer in the case of
Ideal No. 246.
Sldewlse movement of the fronf in the
case of Ideal No.216 is g;overned by the
action of the knob " /r". In the Ideal 111
there is no screw, the front moving sidewise
merely by exerting pressure. The lateral
movement of the front serves in place of the
rising front when the camera is being used
for horizontal viervs. In both models of the i.
www.orphancameras.comView original page 9Page 10 · Read text
?tt
:
o'.\ g
Ideal there are white dots on standard which
are opposite each other when the lens is in
normal position.
ft rs importanl that the lens should be in normar
positiort, both verlically and horizontatty, witlt dots,
or dot and poinler, ae the case ma! be, opposite
eaclt other, before closing. the catnerA.
Closing the camera. There are two things
to look out for particularly when closing
the camera. Compactness is a paramount
virtue of the Ideal and this is possible only
by placing each part in the smallest possible
space. Before closing the camera, be sure
that the reflecting finder is in position for
vertical views, and that the lens is at normal
irosition both vertically and horizontally.
Then, after releasing the standard on its
slide by disengaging the pawl from focusing
screw and loosening the struts "s", press
the two knobs "gg" , toward each other and
push the lens standard back into the bodvView original page 10Page 11 · Read text
of the camera as far as it will $o. Press
down on the bed braces"s" at each side of bed
and the camera will close readily. If it does
not do so, do not force it, but look again
and make sure that all parts are in their
proper position - if they are, there will be
no difficulty in closing the camera.
Loading the plateholders. Single metal
Iplateholders are provided for the Ideal.
Actual loading of plates, of course, has to
4i
be done in a darkroom, but it is well to I
become familiar with the method of pro,
eedure in the light. The plate is held in
position in the holder by two projections at
the end opposite that at which the slide is
withdrawn, the projections being moved in
and out by a sliding knob at the back of
the holder. Insert the plate by putting one
end of it under the flange at the slotted endqr.
of the holder. The other end of the plate
is then pressed into position against the
springs that bear against the back of it. Do
not allow the fingers to touch the face of
the plate.
General Suggestions
What has been said up to this point has
special referenceto the operation of the Ideal
Camera. These further suggestionsapply not
only to the Ideal, but generally to all small
plate cameras.
Keep camera and /ens free from dusf.
Dirt and dust are enemies of the photographer,
especially dust, and especially to the user of
a small camera. Dust is particularly annoying, {r
not to say disastrous to good results, in the
l0 I
www.orphancameras.comView original page 11Page 12 · Read text
case of small cameranegatives. For where in
contact prints a few dust marks on the negative
may do no harm, r,l'henan enlargementis made
every dust mark is enlarged, and makes an
ugly blemish on the print. Be careful, there,
fore, frequently to dust out the inside of the
camera with a clean, lintless cloth or camels,
hair brush, or both. The lenses should also
be kept clean, and should be unscrewedfrom
their mounting occasionally,and carefully and
gently wiped off with a soft cloth (an old
but clean linen handkerchief is good) and
afterward dusted with a camel's,hair brush.
Be very careful not to scratch the lenses.
'to Important focus correetly, It is a
good plan to train one's ability at focusing
before depending on the scale in actually 'S7ith
making exposures. the camera on a
tripod or other firm support, open the lens
and focus for various distances. Select some
object that you judge to be ten feet from the
camera, set the focus by scale at ten feet, and
then see by looking at the ground glass
whether your guess was a good one. Do this
for longer and shorter distances,verifying your
judgment with a tape measure; and after a
little practice of this kind your ability to judge
distances will be greatly improved.
Using single combination of lens. Some
lenses admit of the front or rear half of the
lens being used alone at approximately twice
the focal length of the complete lens. This
results in an image of any particular object
twice as large as that given by the double
lens. If the single lens is twice the focal
length ol the doublet, it will have only one,
fourth the speed at the same actual lens,
opening. For instance, if the lens,opening is
1 lView original page 12Page 13 · Read text
marked F 8 for the doublet, the same opening
becomes F 16 at twice the focal length.
Use of the fiLm pack. The pack provides
perhaps the most convenient form of daylight
loading film. It is certainly more quickly loaded
than roll film, and the changing of film between .
exposures is at least as quickly effected. Then
above all is the advantage,the pack affords of
ground glass focusing when desired - this
being particularly valuable in such cameras
as the Ideal whose long bellows extension
can be used for close range work only when
the operator can focus on the ground glass.
Certain characteristicsof film pack must be
borne in mind, however, and certain prez
cautions observed, to get best results. Film
does not and cannot be expected, becauseof
its flexible nature, to present such a perfectly
flat, plane surface as does a glass plate"Jher€,<>*
fore, it. is advisable,when using film pack, to
employ a rather smaller lens opening than
would be used with a plate - the added depth
thus obtained compensating to a large degree
for any slight unevennessin the film surface.
It is well, also, not to leave the slide out of
the film pack holder any longer than neces'
sary, for this allows more air to reach the
film. If the air is warm and damp, the film
that is exposed to it will absorb moisture and
swell, thus causing it to bulge out. This may
be overcome to a certain extent by changing
the film, that is, drawing a new section into
position, just before instead of just after the
€xposure. If the film pack holder slide is
withdrawn before the bellows is extended,
the suction caused by extending the bellows
is apt to cause the film to bulge.
L2
www.orphancameras.comView original page 13Page 14 · Read text
Exposure Suggestions
Right exposure lies at the very foundation
of all successfulphotography. The following
are exposures for common subjects that will
probably be not far out of the way. Thev
are calculated for a lens opening of F l5.i
and should give fairly fuil light action on
fast film or plates.
Outdoors
Intense sunlight, no shadow detail required,
such as open landscapes or views on the
water, 1,/1ggsecond.
Bright sunlight, open view, but someshadow
detail required, 1/50second.
Open view in light that would be called
"clorrdy hright". or yi€r&..with near objects
lighted by sun, but containing more or less
shadow detail which should be plainly shown,
1/roto 1/25second.
Under trees or on porch, where principal
part of view is in shadow, whether partly
illuminated by direct sunlight or not, t/s to
1/16second.
Indoors
Portrait near window, well lighted and
using reflector or having light from windows
on two sides, l/s to 1 second.
Intetior view, well lighted by two or more
windowd, light not shut off by trees or other
objects, 2 to 10 seconds.
In the case of interior views it is usually
advisable for the sake of depth (securing both
near and distant objects sharply focussed)to
use a stop not larger than F 16 and lengthen
I 3
IView original page 14Page 15 · Read text
the exposureaccordingly. Rememberthat each
successivelysmaller stop requires a doubling
of the exposure, so that with F 16 a well
lighted room would require an exposure of
12 secondsto I minute. Mos.t interiors require
much longer exposure than that.
Overexposure isn't nearly so much to be
feared as underexposure in the great majority
of subjects.
Fortunately for the photographer who cannot ,
always determine the absolulely correct ex,
posure for the particular subject, the plate or
film provides considerablelatiiude. If tle right
exposure for a given subject were, let us say,
one second, probably anything from half a
second to four seconds would give a very
satisfactorv result.
Camera should4e
the amateur photogra pher's trouble can be
traced to an unsteadinessof the cameraat the
instant of exposure. This results inevitably in
a blurring of the details of the picture. It
is especially important in the case of small
negatives from which enlargements may be
desired, that the camera be very steady when
the exposure is made. The use of the wire
or antinous release is less likely to jar the
camera than the trigger, and the reflecting
finder is usually better to use than the direct
vision finder for comparatively slow exposures
with the camera held in.the hand. Steady,
handed people are readily able to make as
slow an exposure as 1/ro or even 1/5 second
without jarring the camera, but t/zr is about
as slow as most people are sure of without
a firm support for the camera.
The Compur shutter fitted to Ideal Cameras
is thoroughly reliable, and can be depended
t4
www.orphancameras.comView original page 15Page 16 · Read text
upon for the very useful slow "snaps" like
i/16second and anything between that andlf 25.
Use a tripod whenever you can. There
is now law against using a hand camera on a
tripod. It is really best to use a tripod or
other firm support for even a very small
camera when it is at all possible or con'
venient. While it would not be advisable
for any photographer to attempt to "do" a
football match with his camera on a tripod,
yet it is undeniably true that the great ma,
jority of amateur work, including quick in,
stantaneous exposures, would be much better
than it is if there were a more general em,
ployment of the tripod.
fn conclusion Instructions and sugges'
tions such as the foregoing must necessarily
be brie{ or they are likely to defeat their
own object. There are manymatters, therefore,
that have to do with everyday camera work
which are not herein mentioned at all. In
closing let us wish you the best of succe$s
with the Ideal Camera. Success with it will
be measured by the care and skill with which
it is used.
l 5View original page 16From the M. Butkus archive. Original publisher and archive notices are retained.
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