Kodak Brownie Six-20Junior Super Model(Portrait) User manual

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      How
     to Succeed
      with you r
    slx-20
 "BROWNIE''
   JUNIOR
    SUPER MODEL
            (PORTRATT)

KODAK LIMITED, KINGSWAY, W.C.2,

The first thing to do

You can get good pictures from the start-
eight out of eight, on your first spool-if you
make real friends with your camera at once.
So don't be like so many new camera owners,
who waste their first roll by making silly little
mistakes.
Before you load up your first spool, get to knorv
your " Brownie." Glance through this booklet
and practise " working " the Exposure lever and
 ' Time' lever, and become generally used to the
camera. Practise using it without any film inside;
it will only take a few minutes, after which you
rvill be ready to go ahead with making real
pictures.


Have you done that ? Good. Now that you
know the movements of your camera, you are
ready to load up with film.
(Note :  After practising with the camera empty
be sure to replace the Time Lever at the letter
' I'.  This ensures that the shutter will not be
open when you put in the film.)

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    Always use KODAK Film in the Six-20
     " Brownie " Junior Super Model
    The correct films to use are the following. The
    use of any other films may seriously damage
     the camera.*
        Kodak Regular                   620                                          l"         Koclak " Verichrome           v620
        Kodak " Panatomic "              tr620
        Kodak SS. Panchrornatic    55620
                   " 620 "  'is a trade marh of Kodah Litt.ited.
     For descriptions of these films see below.





   KODAK REGULAR FILM
      Still the standard eight-exposure I /- film, un-     beatable for snapshotting on sunny days and
    Time exposures in any weather.
    *New Kodak films will be marketed after this
     booklet goes to press; those which are suitable
      for your Six-20 " Brownie " will bear the trade
\   mark " 620."
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KODAK " VERICHROME '' FILM
When you have taken a ferv ordinary portraits,
Slroups and vier'vs, you rvill want to go on to
something even better. So we advise you to try
" Verichrome " Filrn.  Not because  it costsld. more per spool (it is amply r,vorth it) but
because it really does give you better pictures-
rvith added sparkle and life. It is better for all
subjects and lights, but you will find it par-
ticularly useful when the light is not so good as
it might fs-sn  dull days, in the rain, even.
" Verichrome," in effect, helps your " Brownie "
to  ' see' more clearly.
So don't forget the rule-" Verichrome "  for
better, brighter, clearer snapshots.

Venmo @mike-butkus-camera  Ph. 2083
PayPal Name  Lynn@butkus.org      www.PayPal.me/lynnbutkus

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KODAK SUPER SENSITIVE PANCHRO.
MATIC AND " PANATOMIC '' FILMS
When you have had some practice at using
Kodak Re$ular or  " Verichrorne "  FiIm
 ("Verichrome" for preference) you wiII be ready
to try Kodak Super Sensitive Panchrornatic
and " Panatornic " Fikns.  These films aresensitive to all colours, including red, and they
give pictures of brilliant quality. With them
you can even take indoor pictures at night with
wonderfully short time exposures, by using one
or more " Photoflood " lamps. But like all
high-grade materials they require skilled hand-
ling at every stage-taking, developing, printing
     before going on to Super Sensitive and-so" Panatomic," practise with the less advanced
films first.

How to Load
  Of course this camera can be loaded and un-
 oaded in daylight. But don't do either in the
full glare of the sun. Always get into the shade
before you start to load or unload.
 Any Kodak dealer will supply you with the
proper film for your camera. FIe will also load it
for you if you like, but learn to load it for yourself
as soon as possible.
  Let's suppose you have your film and are
sure it  is the right size. Norv follow these
pictures :-





   Lift up the metal catch on top of the camera,
as it shows you in the first picture, and open the
back.
  Draw out the winding key on the side as far as
it wiil come, turning  it slightly at the same time.
This will allow you to take out the inside portion
of the camera (roll-holder) from the main part
                                7

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(body), like this :--





                        Break the gum-
                      med paper that goes
                       round the spool of
                            film, and put the
                        spool in the top
                              spool - chamber, as
                     shown on left, so
                          that the blach side
                         of the paper faces
                           down. The topspool
                        chamber is the one
                           furthest from the
                      words 'Key Side.'
      www.butkus.us       The easiest way to
                             insert the spool is
to press the side spring outrvards slightly r,vith

one end of the spool so that the slot in the other
end can be fi.tted over the fixed pin.
  Take out the empty spool from the other
spool-chamber at the bottom of the roll-holder.
  Draw the paper over the two rollers, like
this :-





                   Mike Butkus     DigitallyDN:org,Date:cn=Mikec=US2026.05.04signedButkus,by21:34:24Mikeo, ou=Butkus.org,Butkus-04'00'      email=mike@butkus.
and thread the tapered end into the longer slot in
the empty spool. Give this spool two or three
forward turns to make sure that the paper has
been caught securely and is running smoothly
and squarely on to the spool.
  Don't unroll too much of the paper, otherwise
the light might get through to the film itself and
' fog' (spoit)  it.
  Now put the spool back into the spool-chamber.
Replace the roll-holder in the body of the camera
so that the words  ' KEY SIDE' come on the
same side as the winding key.

                                       )

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  Then close the back, making sure that the metal
catch fastens securely.
  Press in the winding key and turn it slowly
until you feel it catch in the end of the spool
inside the camera. Go on turning and watch the
little red window at the back of the camera. After
a few turns a warning hand will appear; then
turn slowly until the figure I comes into the
centre of the window. Nor.v you are ready to take
the first snapshot.
  Press in the winding key as you turn it. Don't
wind too fast because as you have already found
out, the winding key winds only one way, so if
you wind too far you cannot wind back again and
you will waste the film.
  As soon as you have taken a picture, wind the
fiIm on until the next number appears in the red
window. Remember to do this euery time, other-
wise you may take two pictures on the same piece
of film and, of course, spoil them both.

How to
Hold a
Camera
  This is the way
to hold a camera.
Press it gently a-
gainst your body
and, at the moment
you snap, hold it
quite steady. If you
shake the camera as
vou snap the whole
picture  will   be      www.butkus.us
blurred.
How to Aim
  Point the camera. holding  it level, as shown in
thepicture, atwhat-
ever you want to
photograph. Your
eye should be direct-
ly above the vier.v-
fi.nder so that you
will see the picture
properly 'framed'                               " e i,t:t'l::,1!:6ttn          #,tt;:rttin it.
  Yow ncust not stand closey to yowr swbject than
8 lo 10./aal, unless you pull out the slide marked
" Pull for Portraits."  How to take  ' close-ups'
                                                                     It

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'lvith this slide pulled out is explained on page 15.
  You can take upright or horizontal pictures.
  Move the camera very slightly from side to side,
still holding  it firmly against the body, until you
see your picture level in the view-finder.
  The picture is taken by operating the Exposure
Lever, which, as you aim the camera for an upright
picture, is the bottom lever on the right. Press the
lever slowly and smoothly, either up or dswn-
rvhicheverway may be necessary. This makes the
pictule. Don't move the Exposure Lever tp and
do$'n-only one movement is necessary to rvork
the shutter.
Snap in Good Light
  Snapihots are 'light pictures': When you click
                                                                                     I ight cornes through the
                          the Exposure Lever the
                          lens of the camera and
                   makes the picture on
                         the film. The lens is the
                        camera's 'eye', and the
                        shutter is like a little
                       door, or eyelid, inside
                          the front of the camera,
                      which opens and shuts
                            'in a wink' when you
                  press the  exposure
                      lever.  In dull light
                   your camera cannot
                                'see' much in that little
   Hout the light  entcrs the   'wink' which the shut- carne/a and makes the picturc. ter gives when you
                                       t'2

I
snap. So.until ylu have ptenty of experien
snap only i.n a good bright li.ght.
  Note. " Verichrome " Film-Kodak's Faster
Film-will increase your camera's power to 'see'
quickly, and so enable you to snap in fairly duli
light.
  One more hint:  Sta,nd, wi.th the sun to one
side of you or half-behind you. This gets nice
shadows and lights in th.e picture, particularly the
little shadows which show the shape of the face
in a portrait.
  Don't stand with the sun directly behind you if
you can help it, because that kind of  ' lighting'
produces a less interesting picture ; and in por-
traits the sun rnay dazzle the eyes of your friend
and make him  ' screw up' his face.
  And don't point the camera towards the sun
(until you have experience) because that is apt to
dazzle the 'eye' of the camera and spoil the film.
How to Unload
  After you have taken the last picture (No. 8)
turn the winding key until you see the end of the
paper go past the window.
  The film can no\!'be taken out from the camera.
Open the back of the camera, as described on
page 7. This, of course, Iike the loading of the
camera, should be done in the shade and not in
direct sunlight. Take out the roll-holder. Hold
the end of the protecting-paper and the white
gummed sticker together to prevent the paper
from becoming loose. If the sticker has been
wound underneath the spool, turn the spool to
                              l3

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bring it up. Then lift out the roll of exposed film.
  Fold under the paper to the guiding line and
Jasten it down with the sticker.
  After you have taken out the film from the
camera do not wind it tightly with a twisting
motion, or the film might get scratched.
  The film should be developed as soon as possible
after exposure.
   It is a good plan to reload the camera as soon
as you have taken out the exposed film, so that
you are ready for the next picture.
     PART  II
Getting More out of
You r Camera
  In the next few pages you rvill find some
interesting notes about
   CLOSE-UP PORTRAITS,
   FAST MOVING SUBJECTS,
   PICTURES INDOORS and
   LOOKING AFTER YOUR CAMERA.
  Note. If this is your first camera we strongly
    advise you to use your fi.rst roll of film on
    landscapes and groups of people. You should,
     of course, keep this book with you, and refer
     to it when you get your first fiIms back from
    your Kodak Dealer, so that if any of the
     pictures are not successful you will be able to
     see why.
         If they are all successful (as they will be if

you follow the instructions so far) youwill, we
           expect, like to read the second half of this book
        and try some of the more advanced kinds
          of pictures discussed there.
  How to Take Good
   Close-u p Portraits
      The Six-20 " Brownie " Junior Super Model     has its own portrait lens attachment built into
     the camera, ready for use at any time.
      To take a  ' close-up' first draw out the slide
     adjacent to the wording " Pull for Portraits " to
        its full extent. The camera is now ready to takef    pictures of subjects 3 to 4 feet arvay.
          It is always best to rneasure this distance care-
      fully. A good plan is to get a piece of string
I





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     Camera  set          Camera set for  groups         close-ups. Portrait          and uieus. Portrait slide
              OUT,                        IN.

www.butkus.usmeasuring about 3] feet long and carry it in your
pocket or handbag when you go out with your
camera.
  The things to remember r,vhen taking close-up
portraits are: to be particularly careful about
holding the camera level-don't  tilt it up-and to
get a fairly  ' high view-point '-that  is to say it is
usually better to take your friend s'tttr,ng, with the
camera at the level of his neck. Thirdly, it is best
to avoid posing your friend in profile, because
close-up photographs are inclined to exaggerate
the size of rvhatever is nearest the camera, which
in this case r.vould be your friend's shoulder. If
you particularly want a profiIe picture ask your
friend to sit almost facing the camera and then
turn his head to one side.
  Don't forget to press the portrait slide back
again into the body of the camera after taking a
close-up. If you omit to do this, the remaining
pictures of subjects more than 4 feet away will
come out blurred.
Taking Th ings Moving





                                l6

As a rule, if you want to take snapshots of very
 restless children or pets, or of people walking or
running, or of motor cars and other things which
travel quickly, you will have to use one of the
more advanced " Kodaks " with a shutter which
will give a quick exposur:e-say l/l00th of a
second.
  This is four times quicker than the exposure
you can get with your " Brownie," which has a
speed of about I l25th of a second.   All the same, it is often possible to take good
snaps of moving subjects with l/25th second ex-
posure, that is to say, even with the simplest
cameras.
  Two things work in your favour. First, the
further away the moving subject is, the less effect
its movement has in blurring the picture  ; so that
it is often possible to get your picture by keeping
at a distance and afterwards having part of the
picture enlarged until the subject is seen clearly.
Any Kodak dealerwill havean enlargement made
of any of your pictures, or of any part of one of
your pictures. Secondly, if the subject is moving
touards you or away froru-not across-you, thisalso reduces the blurring effect.

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lndoors, or whenever
the Light is bad,
Make Time Exposures
What a Time Exposure is.
  When you  ' click' the shutter for a snapshot
the shutter opens and light acts on the film for
I l2Sthpart of a second and then the shutter closes.
  When you rnake a Tirne Exposure you your-
self control the amount of time during which the
shutter is open and light is acting on the film.
  To set your " Brownie " for a Time Exposure,
move the Time Lever (the upper lever on the right
of the camera, just above the Exposure Lever) to
the letter  ' T' by pressing the lever bach (towards
the back of the camera) and sliding it along.
Then put the camera on a firm support such as a
tripod and aim it carefully. Press the Exposure
Lever to the other end of the siot ; this opens theshutter. I-eave it open for as long as you decide
will be correct, then move the Exposure Lever
back again. This closes the shutter. Thus two
movements of the Exposure Lever are needed for
a Time Exposure ; only ome for a snapshot.
  After making a Time Exposure, don't forget to
move the Time Lever back again to the other end
of the slot before you make another snapshot.
  The longer the Time Exposure, the more light
will reach the film ;  the shorter the Time

                                1S

Exposure, the less light will reach the film. So
 it is obvious that if the light is only rather dull-
say, in the open at 8 o'clock on a summer even-
ing-you will only need a Short Time Exposure
(probably just as long as it takes you to open and
close the shutter quickly and steadily), while if
the light is very bad for photographing-such  as
indoors on a dull day-you will have to give a
Long Time Exposure (10 or 20 seconds or more)  .
Tips about
Time Exposu res
  Both the calnercr. and the swbject rnust be hept
dead slill dwring a Time Exposure.
   (l)  So for Time Exposures you must put the
camera on some firm support, such as a tripod.
There are two tripod sockets in the camera, one
for horizontal, the other for vertical pictures.
  You must be careful not to shake or jar the
carrlera during the exposure.
  Of course, you must never try to make a Time
Exposure with the camera held in your hands.
  (2) If  the subject tnones at all during the
Time Exposure the part which has moved will be
blurred in the picture because there will really be
two or more pictures of the part that moved on
the one piece of film.
  So it  i,s useless to try to tahe Time Exposures
of restless subjecls such as animals (except when
they are asleep) or restless children. Even grown-

                                                             -rl

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up people will have to take particular care to keep
quite still.
  There is always a certain amonnt of dilliculty in
deciding how manv seconds to keep the shutter
open when making a Time Exposure, because it
all depends on the amount of light available.
After one or trvo experiments you r.vill gain
sufficient experience to enable you to judge
roughly how long the e:;posure should be.
lf You Want
to Know
  The time will soon come rn'hen you will rvant to
try new kinds of pictures, out-of-the-ordinary
photographs.
  The use of a Colowr Fi,lter, Fictures Indoovs
with " Photoflood " Lamps, Si,lhowette pictures,
Pictures At N'ight out of doors, Colowring, your
own prints, Enlargins from your negatives-
these are some of the things you rvill want to
knorv about.
  Then is the time to buy the book " How to
Make Good Pictures" (f /-), of which over amillion copies have been sold, from your Kodak
Dealer.
Look After You r
Camera
  Kodak made your " Brou'nie "  lvith the
                            20