Kodak Film Pack Tank User manual

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  Development
      '      with rre No. 1
Kodak Film Pack Tank





                   Published bY
  EASTMAN KODAK COMPANY
          Rocnnsrnn, N. Y., U. S. A.

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      c(Kodak"
            TRADE N{ARK
                           1888

    EASTMAN KODAK COMPANY
            Rocunsrpn, N. Y.
Mamtfacturers of
       Kodak Cameras,
        Brownie Cameras,
       Hawk-Eye Camcras,
       Kodak Film,
       Kodak Film Pack,
       Kodak Film Pack Tanks,
       Kodak Film Tanks,
        Velox Paper,
         Solio Paper,
       Eastman Velvet Bromide Paper,
       Eastman Brilliant Velvet Bromide Paper,
     .   Eastman Royal Bromide Paper,
       Eastman Standard Bromide Paper,
       Eastman Enanreled Bromide Paper,
       Eastman N'Iatte-Enamel Bromide Paper,
       Kodak Dry Mounting Tissue,
       Eastman Tested Chemicals,
         Tripods and Other Specialties.


            Trade Marks Res. U. S. Pat. Of.

Maa,7925.

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                   Dezteloping  fnsftuctions for
  Kodak Film Pack Films
              in the No. I
  Kodak Film Pack Tank





                             Fig. I

           Kodak Film pack Tank is used forTHE No. I
    developing one dozen l% x 2sA or 2r/ x Brz4, _r-
Film Pack Films. Developer po*:d""s, especially
prepared for use in these tanks, are put up in
packages of six pairs, and labeled No. 1 for use in
the No. I Kodak Film pack Tank. Each pair of
         is wrapped in a single package with.p?*-dul.label of instructions.

To Prepare the Developer
  We iecommend Pyro developer. The Kodak
Film Pack Tank Developer Powders, are Pyro
developer powders prepared especially for use
with our film and the Kodak Film Pack Tank.
They are made from Eastman Tested Chemicals.
   Norp: Failure may result if prepared powders other
than Kodak Filrn Pack Tank Developer Powders are
used in these Tanks.
  Remove the cover of the tank by turning  it to
the left and take out the cage or film holder.
   Fill the solution cup with water (not ex-
ceeding 70 degrees Fahr.) to the embossed
ring-not to the top. Test the temperature
of the water with a thermometer. Pour
four to eight ounces of the water out of the
solution cup into a graduate or glass and
dissolve in it the contents oI the red pack-
age, containing Sodium Sulphite and Sod-
ium Carbonate. When this powder is dis-
solued, add the contents of the blue pachage,
containing Pyro. When this is dissolved,
pour it back into the solution cup and stir
thoroughly. The deueloper is now ready
for use.
  Develop the film for the time given in the
table according to the temperature of the devel-
oper. (See table on page 4).

                             2

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   If some of the Pyro in the blue package sticks
to the paper, dip the paper into the solution so
that all the Pyro is added to the developer.
  The developer must always be mixed fresh and
used for only one pack of films.
  Temperature of the developer must not exceed
70 degrees Fahr., as above this point there is
danger of the emulsion loosening from its support.
   It is not advisable to use water colder than 50
degrees Fahr., as below this temperature the
chemicals dissolve too slowly and the time of
development is too long for practical work, and
even at this temperature the powder must be
finely crushed and added slowly to the water.

      Time and Temperature for
          Tank Development
  After the developer has been properly pre-
pared, test the temperature with a thermometer.
Best results are obtained when the temperature
of the developer is between 60 and 70 degrees
Fahr.
 When the temperature of the developer is
exactly 70 degrees Fahr., develop the film fifteen
minutes; then for every degree colder than 70
degrees, add one minute to the time for develop-
ment. For example: If the developer is 65
degrees, develop the film 20 minutes; if 62
degrees, develop 23 minutes, etc.

i-

    Table of Time and Ternperature for
          Tank Development
        Tplrppnetunq
            70 Degrees....
              69
             68
              67
              66
             65
              64
             63
                 6261     "
             60
              59
              58
                        ol7a4
          55              56    n   ....          54    n   ....
              53
              52
              51
             50

           Short Development
  The time of development can be shortened one-
half by using  l'^r.,o powders or double the quantity
of chemicals given in the formula on page 9.
  To Prepare the Fixing Solution
. Kodak Film must always be fixed in an acid
fixing bath.
  Provide a paekage of Kodak Acid Fixing
Powder which should be prepared according to
the directions on the carton. Put this into a tray
or wash-bowl. When the powder in the large
package is thoroughly dissolved, add to the solu-

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    tion as much of the Acidifier, which is in a small
   box inside the large package, as directions call
    for. When dissolved, the Fixing Bath is ready for
   use. The temperature of the Fixing Bath must
    not exceed 65 degrees Fahr.
     At this point all light should be excluded from
    the room except a safe ruby light, which will not
    affect the films when removed from the pack.
   For this purpose we recommend either the
   Kodak Candle Lamp or No. 2 Kodak Dark-room
   Lamp, or if electricity is available the Brownie or
   Kodak Safelight Lamp. This work can be done
   at night in any room in which there is running
   water, care being taken that there is no white
    light in the room during the few minutes while
   the films are being transferred from the pack to
   the cage.
     To Load the Films into Cage
    Remove the films from the pack as shown in
    Fig. II, by first breaking the two seals at the sides
   and pulling down bottom flap. Load each film



                               cn=Mike                                              Butkus,                                              o=ButkusMike                       DigitallyDN:camera signed by Mike Butkus                                      manuals,                                               ou=butkus.org,
Butkus             email=mike@butkus.org,Date: 2021.06.30 17:22:12c=US-04'00'




                                Fig. II
                                 5

I

into a compartment of the cage without detaching
the blaclc paper. This is readily done by holding
the film between the thumb and fingers with the
black paper towards the hand and doubling the
edges together as shown in Fig. I, (page 1).
Slide them carefully down to the bottom of each
compartment, with torn edge up, and see that
the center piece protrudes between the edges of
the film, preventing them from coming together
during development.
  To remove one or more films for development
before the entire pack is exposed:
  Take the camera or film pack adapter to the
dark-room, remove the pack and break the seals
as described on page 5. After removing the ex-
posed film, the pack can be replaced without
sealing in the camera or adapter before leaving
the dark-room and the remaining films in the
pack are then ready for additional exposures.

  frnportant-When removing any films for development
before all are exposed, do not remove papers of safety cover
but leave them to protect top film after all have been
exposed and the pack removed in daylight.
  When developing the contents of a 124 x 28/s
Kodak FiIm Pack, the films should be loaded
into the compartments of the cage and pushed
down until they are within about /a of an inch of
the bottom of the cage, then slid over until one
edge comes into contact with the center of cage,
as shown in Fig. III.

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           Development
  When the cage is loaded, place it  in the
 developing tank and raise and lower it slightly
 below the surface of the developer, two or three
 times, to expel air bubbles. Replace the cover
 on the tank, putting lugs on cover into the
 grooves and tighten by turning it to the right as
 far as possible.





                           Fig. III
  The white light should now be turned on and
the time noted.
  During the time of development the tank
should be turned end for end every three minutes
until the total time for development has elapsed.
See table giving the proper time for development,
page 4.  Turning the solution cup produces
uniform and even development. WhLn develop_
ment is completed, remove the cover from the
tank in the dark-room or a very subdued light
and pour off the developer. When removing
cover, hold the tank in palm of hand to obtain a

firm grip on the bottom; then grip cover with
other hand and turn slowly to left when cover
will loosen readily. After the developer has been
poured off, the film must be rinsed, either by
holding the tank for a few seconds under a tap
of running cold water or by immersing it for a few
seconds in a vessel of clear water. The films are
no'w ready for fixing. The fixing bath should
have been previously prepared in a tray or other
vessel (page 4). Remove the cage from the tank
      metal hook being intended for this purpose,-theand take the films from the cage, the black
papers must be torn off and films placed in the
fixing bath.
  The films should be moved about occasionally,
in the fixing bath, to insure evenness of fixing.
  After the films have been fixed a sufficient
length of time so that all the shadows are clear
and transparent and no yellowish spots remain
 (it is advisable to leave them in the fixing solu-
tion ten or fifteen minutes after the yellow or
milky appearance has disappeared, to insure
complete fixation) they should be placed in a
tray under running water and washed for half-
an-hour. If running water is not available, they
should be put through six changes of water (five
minutes to each change) to remove all traces of
Hypo, which would discolor the negatives if they
were not thoroughly washed and all Hypo
eliminated. Keep the films separated part of the
time to insure thorough washing.

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   I      When thoroughly washed, remove the films
       from the tray and pin each one up by a corner,
        to the edge of a shelf or some projecting surface
        which will not allow either side to come in contact
        with any object, or the film will stick and ruin the
         negative.

                 Formulae
         For those who wish to mix their own solutions.
      we give the following formulae:

                   Developer Formula
         Care should be taken to secure pure chemicals
       and correct weights.
         Avoirdupois weight is the standard used in the
      United States for compounding photographic
        formulae.
$
             No. 1 Koner Frr,u Pacr Te.wr
               Sodium Sulphite (E.K.Co.) .    60 grains
               Sodium Carbonate (E.K.Co.) 75 "
            Pyro                 22 "
                  Water, sufficient to fill the eolution cup to
                     the embossed rins.

            Dissolve the chemieals in the order given above, and in
         the manner described on page 2.

         For the best results, temperature of the developer
       should be between 60 and 7O degrees Faht.  See
         1>ages 3 and 4.

t,
           Fixing Bath Formula          *
  Kodak Acid Fixing Powder is supplied in
convenient packages containing all the chemicals
necessary to prepare a correct acid fixing bath,
but the following formula may be used if desired:
     ACID HYPO FIXING BATH (FormulaF-l)
       W'ater                                           . 64 ozs.     Hypo                        16 ozs.
  When thoroughly dissolved, and the bath is
no longer a milky color, add 4 ounces Velox
Liquid Hardener, or the following hardening
solution, dissolving the chemicals separately, and
in the order given:
     W-ater                       . 5 ozs.   .     Sodium Sulphite (E.K.Co.) .      I oz.          Acetic Acid (E.K.Co. 28/6 pute) 3 ozs.        Potassium Alum. Powdered .      I oz.
  This bath may be made up at any time in ad-
vance and can be used so long as it will fix films in
twenty minutes, and is not sufficiently discolored
by developer carried into it to stain the negatives.
  The temperature of the fixing bath, when ready
for use, must not exceed 65 degrees Fahr.
        Over-development
  Over-development may be caused by leaving
film in the developer too long, by using the solu-
tion too warm, or (by those who mix their own
chemicals) getting the developing agent too
strong.
   If the negative is over-developed,  it is very
strong and intense by transmitted light, and
requires a long time to print.

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  The remedy is to reduee it by the use of East-
man Reducer, or by the following method:
   First soak the negative in water for twenty
minutes, then immerse  it in:
          REDUCER (Formula R-3)
      Water                    .'.Sozs.      Hypo                          Ye oz.
         Potassium Ferricyanide (10lo
         solution)poison          .1dram
  Rock the tray gently until the negative has
been reduced to the desired density, then wash
for ten minutes in running water or in four
changes of water.
   Negatives may be reduced locally by applying
this solution to those dense parts with a camel's
hair brush, rinsing off the reducer with clean
water frequently to prevent it running onto the
parts of the negative that do not require reduc-
rng.                                                    /
  Should any yellowness or staining appear in
the reduced negative,  it may be removed by
placing the negative in an Acid Fixing Bath for a
few minutes, then the negative must be thor-
oughly washed according to directions on page 8.
       Under-development
  Under-development  is caused by removing the
film from the developer too soon, by using the
solution too cold, or by an error in compounding
chemicals.
 An under.-developed negative that had been
properly exposed, differs from an under-exposed
one in that it is thin but full of detail, instead of
being contrasty and lacking in detail.

                               11

{
  Over-development or under-development  will
not occur if the previous instructions for tank
development are carefully followed.
   If a mistake has been made in developing and
the negative does not appear contrasty enough,
although it seems to have plenty of detail (this
can be judged only by experience), it can be im-
proved by:
  Intensification: After fixing and thorough
washing, lay the negative while wet, in an empty
tray and pour over it sufficient intensifier to fully
cover it; allow it to act until the negative is all
of one even color and then pour the intensifier
back into the bottle and wash the negative for
fifteen minutes in five changes of water.
  Use Eastman fntensifier prepared according to
instructions on the tube, or if desired the amateur
may make an intensifier, using the following
formula:
 .        INTENSIFIER (Formula I-3)
1. Dissolve 60 grains Bichloride of Mercury      (corrosive sublimate) poison, in .      , 4 ozs. water
2. Dissolve 90 grains Potassium Iodide, in . 2 ozs. water
3. Dissolve 120 grains Hypo, in .   .       2 ozs. water
  Each solution must be dissolved separately, then pour
solution No. 1 into No. 2, and the resulting mixture into
No. 3.

  Ceurrou: Do nol pour solution No. 2 into No. 1, as if this
should be done a red precipitate will form, which is practi-
cally impossible to remove from the film.

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        Iv
             I           Intensification by Re-development

               I           Velox or Royal Re-developer for Sepia tones on
                                                   effective and                                  a most                                prints is                  Bromide             and  "     Velox                                              negatives.                                           film                          of intensifying              means          simple  I   f.         t           V"lo* or Royal Re-developer may be used in S'
  |       .exactly the same manner as for producing Sepia   I       tones on Velox or Bromide Papers.
   I       Negatives intensified by re-development are
         built up evenly, without undue contrast and
         without staining.
       '     The advantage of being able to use the chemi-
         cals for two different purposes (Sepia toning
     '      prints or intensifying negatives) is obvious,, the
          results in either case being all that could be
    ,       desired.
        When re-developing negatives be sure that
        they have been thoroughly fixed and washed
          before re-developing.

         Kodak Film negatives yield beautiful, black.
        and white effects when printed on Velox paper.
  r        Velox paper is made in four degrees of contrast,
                     as follows:   I      designated
   I        Contrast No. 1 should be used when printing
   I      from negatives of extreme contrast or when soft     '       effects are desired.
           Contrast No. 2 for use with average or normal
       /  negatives that'have good contrast between the      (  highlishts and shadows (dark and light por-
            tions).
                                        l3

Contrast No. 3 to be used when printing from
weak, thin and flat negatives that have little
contrast.
  Contrast No. 4 should be used with extremely                                 qflat, and very thin, weak negatives, or when
much contrast is desired in the print.  The different degrees of contrast make it pos-    I
sible to obtain a good print from almost any
negative.
             Manipulation
  Velox prints can be made by using daylight,
but we strongly recommend that artificial light
be used, as it is much more uniform, and it will
therefore be easier to obtain satisfactory prints.
If daylight is used, select a north window, if
possible, as the light from this direction will be
more uniform. Owing to its sensitiaeness the paper
should be handleil in subdued light, otherwise it
tnill fog. Proper precautions should be taken to
draw down the shades and darken the room
sufficiently during manipulation.  If the light is
too strong for printing it should be subdued or
diffused by the use of several thicknesses of white
tissue paper. In the following instructions for
making Velox prints, it must be understood that
artificial light will be the light used. A kerosene
lamp fitted with.a round burner (known as a
Rochester burner) may be used, but owing to its
decidedly yellow light, a considerably longer
exposure will be necessary than when using an
electric lamp.
                            t4

www.butkus.usf      The comparative exposures using Contrast No.
       2 Velox with an average negative, using various
        sources of light, are as follows:
 ul                        0)

                              'bu        F
                            q)z       O  bI)       F1         Fl         Fl             6d
                                                                                          ori il                        cdH                                         b{H
                     Na          an                                 I                       clI

            BL,4xbrl
            and       10       4        6       12             50
           Smaller    Inches    Sec.      Sec.      Sec.              Sec.
         Norn: This table is approximate owing to the various
           densities of negatives; when using Contrast No. 1 Velox
        make a slightly shorter exposure and when using Contrast
         No. 3 or Contrast No. 4 Velox increase the exposure.
        With a suitable light and a convenient place,
       arrange three trays on the work table in this
         order:

          Nepera Solu-     Short Stop             Fixing Bath             tion diluted      Bath as                as directed
        as directed        given on     Towel   on pages          on the label      pase 18         4 and 10
                      I                2
        Notn-Do not allow the direct rays of light used for t        printing to strike tray No. 1, which is used for the developer.
 I       Placeand traya pieceNo. of1, toyellowobtainor aorangesubduedpaperandbetweensafe light.the lightThis
 I          will prevent the light fogging the paper during development.         Proper temperature is important and for the
       best results the developer should be 70 degrees
        Fahr. and the fixing bath and wash water should
       not exceed 65 degrees Fahr.  If the developer
        exceeds 70 degrees the prints are liable to fog and

                                      15

1

 the emulsion soften. If  too cold, chemical
 action is retarded, resulting in flat, weak prints.
 If the fixing bath is too warm it will not harden
 the prints properly and it may turn milky.
       '        Making the Print
  Have everything ready, open the printing
frame and lay the negative, face up, upon the
glass-(the face is the dull side). *
  Examine the negative; if it is of average quality
with good contrast between the highJights and
shadows (dark and light portions) use the Con-
trast No. 2 Velox paper. If the negative is flat
with little contrast, or if it is thin and weak, then
use the Contrast No. 3 Yelox paper.
  Place a sheet of Velox/ace down upon the nega-
tive. The face is the sensitive or emulsion side,
it curls in slightly; a practical test is to bite one
corner of the sheet, the emulsion side will stick to
the teeth.
  Unused paper must be kept covered in its
envelope.
  Hold the printing frame away from the ligh' a
distance equal to the diagonal of the negative.
See exposure table, page 15.
 We suggest before making the first €xposur€,
the cutting of a piece of Velox paper into strips
about an inch wide and placing one of them over
  *The strips of gummed paper which are ineluded with
the Developing and Printing Outfits are to be used for
fastening the nega-tive in place on the glass of the printing
frame,-or to attach_ the negative to a mask, to prevent  it
from slipping,.which-would cause a dark streak to appear-between the edge of the picture and the white margin.-
                            l6

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      an important part of the negative, make the ex-
       posure, using your best judgment as to the time
       of printing. Develop  it, and if not satisfactory,
        try another strip, varying the time as indicated                             'W'hent     by the first result.       the desired effect is
       secured, you can make any number of prints
      from the same negative, and if the time of ex-
        posure, distance from light as well as the time of
lE      developing are the same as for the satisfactory
        test print, all succeeding prints will be equally
      good. By comparing other negatives with the
       one you have tested, you will be able to make a
         fairly accurate estimate of the exposure required
        for any negative.
        To develop, the dry print should be immersed
        face up in the developer (tray No. 1) and quickly
       and evenly covered with the solution.
               '' Velon o! all grades and degrees o! contrast should,
        be erposed so as to deaelop to the proper depth in
        about forty-fi.ue seconds. No exact time can be
        given, as the strength of developer used would
      make a difference in the time.
        As soon as the image has reaehed the desired
   I      depth remove the print from the developer to
        the second tray and rinse it for a moment in the
+      short stop bath, turning the print once or twice,
        then place it in the acid fixing bath (tray No' 3),
       keeping the print moving for three or four
       seconds the same as was done when rinsing.
       Separate the prints and move them about
        occasionally to secure even and thorough fixing,
        preventing stains and other troubles. Leave the
        prints in this solution f'fteen m'inutes. When
        h"ed, remove them from the fixing bath and wash
                                      t7

them thoroughly for about an hour in running
  water, then dry.  ff running water is not avail_
  able, the prints may be placed in a tray or wash-
 bowl of cold water, and left for five minutes
 each in ten or twelve changes of water. Move the
 prints about occasionally to insure the water
 acting evenly on the surface of the prints, and to
 make sure that all the Hypo is entirely removed.
   To dry the prints, lay them face down on elean,
 uncolored cloths, or towels free from lint. Do
 not dry the prints between blotters or on papers;
 they will stick and may be damaged. After
 drying, the prints should be trimmed and
 mounted.
             Short Stop Bath
  We strongly recommend rinsing prints, be-
 tween developing and fixing, in an acid short
 stop as its action instantly checks development,
 and prevents uneven spots and streaks when the
 prints are immersed in the fixing bath. Use a
 fresh bath for each batch of prints, as the acid
 will become neutralized by the alkali from the
developer.
         SHORT STOP (Formula SB-t)
     Water                   .82 ozs.
          Acetic Acid (E.K.Co. 2g/e pure) I%-ouu.
                   Details
  Clean Dishes; Clean Hands: The least trace
of Hypo will spoil the prints if it comes in contact
rvith them before the proper time. Great care
should be used to keep hands and trays clean.
                            18