Kodak Retina Automatic I User manual

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Dear Photo Fan!
In your RETINA automatic I you own a fully automatic miniature camera a truly happy combination of
RETINA precision and RETINA progress.
Hold your RETINA automatic I to your eye, sight your subject and press the shutter release - that is all. Your
friends will be amazed at the results.
Your RETINA automatic I just will not allow you to make any mistakes in exposure. The exposure release
"thinks" for you, and locks itself when the light is too poor for taking a picture. This is indicated by a "STOP"
signal in the finder.
The distance setting is indicated in the finder by light signals. A radically new three-point system tells you at a
glance: close, medium or distant range.
And what you own is not just "any" automatic camera. It is the Kodak RETINA automatic I.
This means all that is best in camera design, and offers the utmost in precision, reliability and beauty.

It is easy to take pictures with your RETINA automatic I

Sight your subject  - The brilliant frame in the large-image viewfinder shows you the correct field
of view.

Check the distance - Check the light signals (dots in the finder to see whether the required
focusing range is set: • close range, in the finder   •   • medium range, • • • for range.

Shoot - Slowly depress the release button. See page 7 for information on the appearance of the
luminous STOP signal, at the finder frame.

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Sighting the camera
Hold the camera in the picture-taking position and look
through the eyepiece of the large image viewfinder. You will
see the subject outlined by the bright line frame.
Depending on the subject you may sight the picture with the
camera held in either the horizontal or vertical position. The
two illustrations on this page are meant as examples. When
sighting a picture take special care not to get your fingers in
front of the honeycomb cell window of the exposure meter.
The index finger should be lightly rested on the release button
without, however, depressing the button. Hold the camera
steady when sighting a picture. Also make sure that part of
your ever-ready case gets in front of the lens.

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Checking the distance in the finder

The close, medium and far ranges
are in the RETINA automatic I
indicated by light signals in the
large-image viewfinder. Hold the
camera in front of your eye, look
through the finder eyepiece, and turn
the lens focusing ring (a) until the
required light signal appears:
signal identification:
• close range • • medium range • • •
far range

The individual zones are indicated by click stops when the lens focusing ring is turned. The arrows engraved in
the front of the shutter are the limits to the individual zones. In the illustration below, the camera is, for
instance, set to the medium range (• • ) - from 8 ft. to 16 ft. - The snapshot zone for each lens setting is at the
same time automatically indicated in the finder by a light signal (dots). You are thus always able to check the
focusing You can, of course, also focus your subject on the usual distance scale engraved in black zone in use.
This is a special advantage for snapshots.
or red and set opposite the I mark.

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Releasing the shutter

When you have your subject nicely framed in the finder, slowly
press the release button (b). (Naturally, the rapid wind lever has to
be operated before the shutter can be released).

Be ready for action

It is advisable to operate the rapid wind' lever (c) immediately a
picture has been taken. Your RETINA automatic will then always
be ready for action. It will not harm the shutter if it remains set for
even an extended period of time.

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Preventing under exposure

If, for instance, the light is too poor for automatic exposure, the
release button is automatically locked, i. e. it cannot be pressed
down to release and a STOP signal appears in the finder. You will
have to use flash is you still want to take the picture.

Automatic exposure control
For taking pictures with fully automatic exposure control, the word AUTO (automatic) on the shutter ring
should always be opposite the setting mark. If it is not just turn the shutter ring until the word AUTO clicks in
place opposite the setting mark.
For strongly back-lighted subjects aim the camera first at the dark portion of the subject and depress the release
button just far enough until the first resistance is felt. Only then should the camera be aimed at the subject and
the release button be fully depressed. This will assure correct exposure of shots into the light.

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Loading the camera with film

l. Always load your RETINA automatic I in the shade
or at least in the shadow of your body.
2. Turn the safety lever (d) on the camera base, press
the opening
button and the camera back will spring open.
3. Pull out the rewind knob (f) as far as it will go.

4. Drop the cassette of film into the film chamber, with the tongue of the film pointing towards the built-in take-
up spool (g).
5. Turn the take-up spool with your thumb until one of the slots faces upwards.
6. Insert the end of the film into the slot in the take-up spool so that the tooth projecting from one side of the
slot engages one of the perforations of the film. Make sure that the per forated edge of the film is parallel with
the bottom edge of the camera.
7. With your thumb turn the take-up spool until the teeth of the film transport sprocket are engaged in BOTH
rows of film perforations.
8. Close the camera back and make certain you hear the catch engage.
9. Push back the rewind knob (f) to its normal position and turn it in the direction of the engraved arrow until a
slight resistance is felt. This takes up the slack film inside the cassette.

d. Safety lever

e. Opening button

f. Rewind knob

g. Built-in take-up spool

h. film transport socket

Digitally signed by Mike Butkus
DN: cn=Mike Butkus, o=Butkus camera
manuals, ou=butkus.org, email=mike@butkus. Mike Butkus org, c=US
Date: 2023.01.28 13:00:26 -05'00'

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Having loaded the camera remember to
• Set the film counter
• Set the film speed
• Set the film type indicator

This is how to set the film counter
The film counter operates from No. 36 back to No. 1 and thus shows you at any time how many exposures you
have left on your film.
Press and hold down the film transport release button (i); then, at the same time, press the film counter setting
button (k) in the direction of the arrow as many times as necessary to bring the diamond-shaped $ mark between
1 and 36 opposite the notch in the upper edge of the film counter window (I). When using a 20-exposure
cassette set to the diamond $ mark at No. 23.
Operate the rapid wind lever now to the limit of its travel. Press the film transport release button (i); then swing
out and release the rapid wind lever again. Repeat this as often as required to bring the film counter to 36 or 20,
depending on the number of exposures in your cassette.

As you operate the rapid-wind lever, the rewind knob should turn against the direction of its arrow. This is your
guarantee that the film is being correctly advanced.

Very important: the film speed

Correct exposure depends on the right film speed
setting. Film speeds are usually rated in ASA
indices or (in some European countries) in DIN
degrees. Press the button (m) and, at the same time,
turn it until the ASA or DIN exposure index (as for
instance 18- DIN) is opposite the V mark in the
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The film type indicator - a useful memory aid
The rewind knob is provided with an indicator to remind you of the type of film you have loaded in your
camera. To set the indicator dial, hold the rewind knob and turn the inner serrated ring until the black dot is
opposite the symbol for the type of film in the camera.
The position of the film type indicator has no effect on the exposure itself.

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When your film comes to an end

After the last exposure the film must be rewound into its cassette. To do this, press the reversing button (n) in
the camera base and turn the rewind knob (f) in the direction of the arrow until the reversing button ceases to
rotate. (Watch the black dot on the reversing button.) Then open the camera back in subdued light, pull out the
rewind knob, and remove the cassette.
If you forgot to set the film counter, it may happen that you reach a point where the rapid wind lever cannot be
fully wound. This indicates that the film is finished. In this case press the reversing button to allow you to
complete the winding operation. Rewind the film and unload as described above.

Films for colour
Kodacolor Film: Makes colour negatives, which are then printed on paper to provide natural-colour prints.
Faster than Kodachrome Film, it allows good pictures in lighting hitherto considered unsuitable for colour
photography
(ASA 32 • BS 26 ).

Kodachrome Film: There are two kinds - Daylight Type, and for Photoflood light, Type A. Both give
miniature colour slides at no extra processing charge, from which prints and enlargements in colour or black-
and-white can be made subsequently. Can be use with flash (ASA 10 . BS 21 ').

Ektachrome Film: Intermediate in speed, gives similar results to Kodachrome Film but can be processed at
home. It is sold at prices not including processing. In Britain it is available only as a daylight type film. Can be
used for flash
(ASA 32 BS 26 ').

High-Speed Ektachrome: Very high speed reversal colour film for exposure in daylight especially useful for
dull-light sports and action photography. Primarily for processing by user (ASA 160 • BS 33 ').

Films for black-and-white
Plus-X Pan Film: An excellent film for both daylight and artificial light photography. Fast but fine-grain
emulsion ensures negatives from which big enlargements can be made (ASA 80 . BS 30 °).

Panatomic-X Film: A high-definition panchromatic film giving exceptional image sharpness by virtue of its
thin coating, very fine grain, and freedom from halation and light-scatter. Ideal for negatives permitting a high
degree of enlargement, especially when developed in Kodak High Definition Developer (ASA 25 . BS 25 ").

Tri-X Pan Film: A panchromatic film of very high speed. It is ideal for snapshots in very poor light outdoors,
forlash snaps in large rooms, for taking pictures by Photo flood light, and for "available-light" photography
(ASA 200 • BS 34 ").

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Flash shots with the RETINA automatic I

Slide your flashgun, for instance the KODABLITZ, into
the accessory shoe of your camera, plug the flash cable
into the flash socket (o), and set the required distance.
Disconnect the automatic exposure control and set the
aperture (F/no.) as required. The aperture is dependent on
the guide number of the flash bulb or electronic flash unit
used and the distance set.

The guide number is specified on the packages of flash bulbs and in the operating instructions for electronic
flash units. The following rule applies:
Guide number divided by distance aperture

If, for instance, your guide number is 72 and your distance 6.5 ft., 72 6.5 = approximately 11.

This means that you have to turn the shutter ring (p) until the red aperture figure 11 of the flash scale (marked in
red) is opposite the setting mark (q). The shutter speed in the flash range is always 1/30 second. You are now
ready to take a flash shot.

Time exposures are possible too

For time exposures turn the shutter ring (p) until the required aperture is opposite the setting mark (q) on the
green scale for time exposures. The automatic control is now disengaged. The shutter remains open for as long
as you keep the release button pressed. You are thus able to expose your pictures as long as you want.
For time exposures the camera should be mounted on a tripod. A cable release - which screws into the socket (r)
- should also be used.

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Close-ups between 3 and 8 feet

When taking pictures of subjects closer than 8
feet you must watch for parallax error. This is
caused by the viewfinder being about an inch or
so above the camera lens, so that at close
distances the viewfinder will not show exactly
what will appear on the film.

To indicate the amount of parallax error at 3
feet, the "bright line" of the finder has a small
mark on each side near the top. You must
imagine a line running across the finder joining
these two marks (the broken line in the
illustration), and keep the top of your subject
below it. Of course there will be a little more of
the subject included at the bottom of the picture
to compensate for the loss at the top. With
subjects farther away than 3 feet the error
decreases, and beyond 8 feet you don't need to
worry at all.

Changing partly exposed films
If you want to change a film that you have only partly exposed, first rewind that film into the cassette (page 12).
Rewind only as long as the reversing button rotates then stop. This will leave the trimmed film leader outside
the cassette. Remove the film from the camera and mark on the cassette the number read off the film counter.
When reloading the partly exposed film at a later date, first load it in the usual way and set the film counter to
the diamond, then operate the rapid-wind lever with the film release button depressed until the number that you
have marked on the film cassette reappears in the film counter window.

Eyesight correction
If you use spectacles but do not wear them while taking pictures and so cannot see the finder image clearly, you
can order a special correction lens from your photo dealer. This lens screws into the finder eyepieces mount.
When ordering please state the exact power required in dioptres + or -. No correction lenses can be supplied for
correcting astigmatism.

Care of the camera
Protect your lens against damage and avoid finger prints on the lens surface and the finder windows. For
cleaning outer glass surfaces preferably use a soft sable brush or special lens tissues. From time to time also
dust the film track and cassette chamber with a brush.

Filters
Filters are used with black-and-white films to obtain correct tone rendering and for special effects. With colour
films, used in a camera such as the RETINA automatic, filters are used to change the colour of the light to suit
the particular colour film in use.
Most filters have what is called a filter factor. This is the factor by which the exposure must be increased to
compensate for the light absorbed by the filter. With the RETINA automatic I, this is best allowed for by
reducing the film speed setting
as follows:

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Reduce the film speed setting by the following number of divisions
Kodak Filters for Black-and-White Films
Light yellow (F 1)  - 2
Medium yellow IF II), yellow-green IF 111) -  3
Blue (F VI)  - 4
Orange IF IV)  - 5
Red (F V)  - 4
The above filters must NEVER be used with colour films.

Kodak Wratten Filters for Colour Films
Wratten No. 1 A Skylight (ultra-violet)   0
Wratten No. 85 (amber) for using Kodachrome Film TypeA for daylight exposures   2
Wratten No. 85 B (amber) for using Ektachrome Film Type B for daylight exposures     2 Wratten Nr. 85C
(amber) for using Ektachrome Film Type F and Kodachrome Film Type F
for daylight exposures   2 Wratten No. 80B (light blue) for using Kodachrome and Ektachrome Films,
Daylight Type for Photoflood exposures   3
Kodak Polo Screen for reflection control and sky darkening with colour film   4




                        Example
                      You want to use a yellow-green filter (F III) for a shot on
                             black-and-white film. On the film speed scale you have
                                      set, for instance, 50 ASA (graduation before 64). The
                              opposite table indicates that the film speed setting must
                           be reduced by 3 divisions if a yellow-green filter is used.
                         Your new setting on the ASA scale therefore becomes 25
                   ASA (see illustration).
                     When the filter is removed again, remember also to reset
                               the film speed accordingly - in our example - back to 50
                       ASA.

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