Kodak Weno Hawk-Eye No. 2 User manual

PICTUNN TAKIITO

                     WITTI
      No. 2
lfeno Hawk=Dye
    w




                    Publisheil by
   EASTMAN KODAK COMPANY
                       Successor lo
BTAIR CAMERA COMPANY
           Rochester, N. Y.

No. 2 Veno Hawk-Eye
              For 3% x 3% Pictures
  Before loacling or attempting to take any pictures with
the Hawk-Eye read the  f ollowing directions carefully
and become thoroughly  f amiliar with the instrument,
taking special care to learn the construction of  the
shutter; work it   f or both time and instantaneous ex-
posures, bef ore threading up the fiim.
 A most important thing to be remembered is that no
white light (including gas or lamp light) should reach
the film- for a fractional part of a second until it has
been developed and fixed. Therefore extreme care must
be used to keep the Duplex paper (black on one side
and red on the other) wound tightly on the spool so
as 'to protect the film while loading and unloading the,
Hawk-Eye.  It is best to select some place where the
light is not too bright to insure' saf ety.
            To Load
 Before    tr oa,d.ing, try the strutter a,nd. seeChat it 'works properly.
  The film for the No. 2 Weno llawk-Eye is known as
No. 2 Rull's-Eye, size 3tl * 3tl, and is put up in light-
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proof cartridges so that the camera can be loaded and
 unloaded in daylight. It  is best that the operation be
 perf ormed in subdued light, not in bright sunlight"
 Af ter the seal is broken, it must be borne in mind
 that care must be taken to keep the Duplex paper tight,
 so no light can reach the film.
  Open ,the llawk-Eye by grasping the handle with the
 right hand, pressing the hidden button on the top near
 the back with the thumb, at the same time taking hold of
 the sides at the back with the left hand. The side sec-
 tion may then be slipped back as shown in Fig. 1, giving
 access to the film chambers.





                          Frc.  I
  Place the spool on the carrier spring opposite the
rn'inding reel, at the bottom of the Hawk-Eye, and bear
down until the top will pass into position  ( the word
"Top" on a Kodak spool should be at the bottom of the
camera), using care that the centers engage in the holes
in the end of the spool. The film cartridge should be
placed in the carnera so that the paper unwinds from the
outside or off the top, ?S it were. Break the seal and
pass the Duplex pape? under the section which is drawn
back, then over the rolls at back of camera and thread
into the slot in the winding ree1. Turn the key to secure.
  Be careful that it is started straight, for should one
edge bear against the flange harder than the other, it
will not wind evenly and will cause trouble. See that  it

is perfectly centereci. Close the camera and be sure that
the catch goes back into position, holding the back in
place.
  Throughout the  f oregoing  f rom the time the seal is
brol<en until the camera is closed, see that the Duplex
paper is wound tightly on the spool. If the paper is
allowed to loosen the film will be fogged.
  Turn the winding key slowly until the figure r ap-
pears opposite the red rn'indow, which signifies that the
trlm is in position for the first exposure.
             The Shutter
  The shutter on the No. 2 Weno l{awk-Eye is auto-
matic, being always set, requiring pressure of lever "A,"
Fig. 2, from right to left, or vice versa to make the
exposure.  It is set  f or time by drawing out the slide
"8," Fig.2. Then one pressure to open and one to close.





                         Frc. 2

           Stops or Diaphragms
 The stop or diaphragm is the opening which regulates
the amount of light passing through the lens. There
are three:
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No. r-LARGEST-tror snap shot exposures in
bright sunlight.
 No. z-TH.E MEDIUNI-For interior time ex-
posures; table given  f or same on page 6.
  No. S-THE SN{ALLEST-tror time exposures oqtof doors on cloudy days. NEVER FOR SNAP SHOTS.
Time required for out of door exposures varies from
one-half lecond to five seconds, according to the light.
 When using stops see that the slide "C," Fig.  r,
centers over the lens. This you can tell by the dedents
engaging in a spring.
   Instantaneous Exposures or Snap Shots
  Alwa,ys use the la,rgest stop or dia,phra,grnt
No. r, page 4.
  Instantaneous exposures, better known as "snap
shots," are usually made with the camera held in the
hand. 'Ihe light therefore should be bright suushiue and
exposures made from about three holtrs after sutlrise to
three hours before stttrset. Earlier or later than these
hours time exposures should be made. See "Tiue
Exposures in Open Air," page 5.
  Always photograph  f rom the sun, never toward it;
that is, the sun should come from behind operator or
over the shoulder, shining directly on object to be photo-
graphed. If  it shines into lens the picture will be blurred.
 Do not try to photograph moviug objects at less dis-
tance than tr'venty-five feet, and endeavor to catch them
at an angie or comiug torvard camera. In photographing
a tail buiiding at close range and pointing camera up-
ward, lines in photo rvil1 be found very irregular on
account of top being a greater distance from the camera.
When possible, you should obtain a position as near as
you can to the horizontal line of the center. The same
rule applies to small objects, such as a dog, u'hen the
camera should be lowered to center of object to be taken.
  When ready for making the exposure hold the camera

firmly, and as nearly level as possible so the picture rvill
 be true.  Locate the object in the finder by looking
 squarely down into it, and push the shutter release "A "  .ho.o,,r t'  pag" s-, tiii. 2,-ir;i;g ;"r" ;;t 6 j"ir. 1-ri. camera. This u'ill uncover the lens a fractional oart of
 a second, thereby making the impression upon the sensi-
 tive surface of the film.
   After making the exposure, turn the winding key to
 the right until the next'number appears to vierv through
 the red lr,indow in the back of the camera.
    It  is a,d.visa,ble to get  into  the  ha,bit of
 wincling  the fi.hn a,s soon a,s a,tr exposure  is rna,dor 'which  'will  a,rroid the  possibility  of
 m.a,king t'wo exposures on the sa,me surfa,ee.
            Time Exposures
   In making time exposures some judgment must be
 used as to the length of time the lens should remain un-
 covered. This is governed by the amount of light upon,the object to be photographed and varies at different
 trmes.
  The following rule should be observed: Place the
 camera upon a tripod, table or some firm support where
 there will be no danger of moving it during the time the
 exposllre is made; center the object in the fincler, set
 the shutter on time as described on page 3, then one pressrlre to open and rn'hen sr,tfficient time has elapsed
 olre to close,-usiug care, of course, not to jar  the
 camera either in opening or closing the shutter            n".

                                                                                                                                                                                   _:,             '                                      g'f       Time Exposures in Open Air
   In making time exposures out of doors the shutter
 can hardly be worked too quickly.
  WITH SUNSHINE-Smallest diaphragm, open and
 close as quickly as possible.
  WITH LIGHT CLOUDS-Smallest diaphragm, one-
 half second to one second.
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WITH HEAVY CLOUDS-Smallest  diaphragm, two
to five seconds.
  The foregoing is calculated for open air exposures;
for objects in shadows or under porches no accurate
directions can be given, only experience can teach the
proper exposure.
 Never try to rna,ke a, tirne exposure whileholding the ca,rnera, in the  lr.a,nd, a,s it  is
lm.possible.
                                                                 L-,
   Time Needed for Interior Exposures
   Tlr.  following  table is  for  the largest opening or
diaphragm. When the second size is used, twicE as
much time shor.rld be given, and with the smallest one
eight times the time of the table:
  White walls and irore than one window:
      Bright sun outside, trvo seconds.     Hazy sun, flve seconds.      Cloudy bright, ten seconds.      Cloudy dull, twenty seconds
  White walls and only one window:
       Bi'ight sun outside, three seconds.     Hazy sun, eight seconds. .    Cloudy brig:ht, flfteen seconds.      Cloudy dull, thirty  seconds.
  Medium colored walls and hangings and more than
one window:
      Bright sun outside, four seconds.     Hazy sun, ten seconds.     Cloudy bright, twenty seconds.     Cloudy dull, forty  seconds.
  Medium colored walls and hangings and only one
window:
      Bright sun outside, six seconds.     Hazy sun, flfteen seconds.     Cloudy bright,  thirty  seconds.     Cloudy dull, sixty seconds.
  Dark colored walls and hangings and more than one
window:Bright sun outside, ten seconds.     Hazy sun, twenty seconds.     Cloudy bright,  forty  seconds.     Cloudy dull, one minute, twenty seconds.
                           6

I)ark colored walls and hangings and only onc
  window:Bright sun outside, twenty seconds.       F{azy sun, forty seconds.       Cloudy bright, eighty seconds.       Cloudy dull, two minutes, forty seconds.
   The foregoing is calculated for rooms whose windows'  get the direct light from the sky and for hours from
  rhree hours after sunrise until three hours before sunset
            Flash Light Exposures
   In makirrg flash light exposrlres with the Hawk-Eye
   it is not necessary to procure a flash lamp, or any ap-
  paratus, zr.s the Eastmatr flash sheets are all that is re-
  cluirecl ancl they .are- supplied for 25 cents per package  co1lta1l]1ng materlal lor slx exposllres.
   Many interiors can be photographed by this process
  that would be very diffrcult to photograph during the
  day owing to lack of light, or windows so located that
   it is impossible to darken them sufficiently.
   The camera shonld be placed on a tripotl, table or
  some other sectlre support. Pin the flash sheet by one
  corner to a piece of white cardboard, which will act as
 a reflector, and 'which has previously been fixed in a
  perper-rdicular position. Place this about two feet be-
  l.ind, and two to three feet to oue side of the camera,
  rvith an extra piece of cardboard under the flash sheet
  to prevent sparks from falling and doing damage.
   When everything is in readiness locate the object in
  the finder and opeu the shutter the same as when mak-
  ing time exposures, using the largest diaphragm. Ignite
  the lower corner of the flash sheet, which will burn
  brightly, and make the exposure; then close the shut-
  ter and wind the film to the next trumber which appears
  to view through the red wiudow
    Orre sheet is sufficient for exposttre with subject ten
  feet away, in atr ordinary room with light walls; two
  sheets r'vhen the subject is fifteen feet ar,vay; three sheets
 when subject is fifteen feet away, with dark walls
 and hangings.
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When one or more sheets are used they should be
oinned to the cardboard, one over-lapping the other
itigtrtty at the corner.
           Removing the Film
  The danger of light reaching the sensitive surface of
the film *Eett unlo-adirrg is the same as at the loading,
and to insure against 1ny possibility of  - fogging the
edges, it had besibe done in a subdued light.
 When No. rz has been exposed, continue to turn the
wincling lic], ttntil thc DLrplex paper lea'n'es the supply
spool a"ncl is all woutrd onto the winding- spoo.l. This
.,'on .ntr tell as the key r,r'ill tttrn very mttch easier after
ihe paper l-ras left the supply spool.
  Next, open the camera' the same as when -loading, andtake hoirl bt th" cncl of the Duplex paper with thumb and
finger of the left hand, turniug the winding key to the
rieit so as to drarv the paper evenly dorvtt around the
so"ool. ITse the sticl<er iurnished with each spool for
fisteniug the end of this papel.. Af ter this is. done, the
soool rrrit' bc taken out by ptl:hillg down on the bottom
fl'angc, *ii.h   uill  allorn' it io be released.-from. its posi-      'fhe         empty spooi should then be adjusted in posi-tionl
tior-r for winding the next {rlm.
  After all the exposures have been made and the film
removed, the negatives must next be made and the
pictures finished.
 We recommend that the amateur do the work com-
olete as it will be found very interesting and the process
is very simple.
            Developing the Film
  Provicle a Developing and Printing Outfit, also a pair
of shears, pitcher of cotd water (preferably-ice water),
a oail for- sloDs, dark-room having a shelf or table
By "dark-rooro" is meatlt a room or closet in whichtro white light can enter. It  is imperative that not
                            8

the least ray should enter,  for should the sensitive
           surface of the film be lighted
           for a fraction of a second  it
         would be completely ruined.
      A light from the ruby lamp
           furnished with the Develop-
          ing and Printing Outht, will
          not affect the film if  it is not
          held closer than 18 inches.
          Arrange three trays-one
          of them filled with water, the
         second fi1led with  sufficient
         amount of Developer to flow
          over the film, and placing in
          the third l-ixing Bath made
                          f rom Kodak Acid  Fixing
          Powder.
                                                                                                                  tg,       .       Unr.oll the film.carefull1',  r.ro.t allowing. the fingers-         come ln contact with the emulsion side, which is the dull
             side, and detach the entire strip from the Dr-rplex paper.
          Pass the film through the tray of clean cold water, hold-
           ing one end in each hand, as shown in the cut. Pass it
         through the water several times so there will be no
           bubbles remaining on the surface of the film. When it
           is thoroughly wet development may be commenced.
         Now pass the film through the Developer in the same
         manner as described for wetting it, keeping it constantly
           in motion. Dark spots will soo1l appear, which are
         termed "highlights" and soon the objects will be dis-
             cernible.
         The process of development can be ascertained by
          removing the Iilm occasionally and holding it in range
           with the ruby light. If the negatives are all of the same
           exposure development can be completed without cutting
  '         the negatives apart. If, however, one or more of the
           negatives flash up more quickly than others, they should
          be cut out of the strip with a pair of shears and trans-
           ferred back to the tray of clear cold water where they
       may remain until the balance of the strip has been
           developed, and then they can be developed one at a time.
hr9
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It takes usually from 5 to ro minutes for development,according to the amount of exposure.
  When sufficient density has been obtained, wash the
 negatives thoroughly and place them in the Acid Fix-
 ing Bath made from l(odal< Acid Fixing Powder, until
the white appearance has disappeared. This usually
requires from g to ro minutes. Then remove and wash
them thoroughly in clear cold running water f.rom zo
to 30 minutes.  It is very irnportant that all traces of
hypo be removed or stains will appear after drying and
ruin the negatives.
  Use all cold solutions and employ  ice in extremely
hot weather. The temoerature of the develooer should
be from 65" to 68'.
 When thoroughll' washed, snap an Eastman Fi|l
Developing Clip on each end of the strip and hang it
up to  cl ry or pin it up. Be snre, however, that it slvirgs
clear of the wal1 so that there wiil be no oossibilitv of
either side of the film coming in contact with the laiter.
In drying, N. C. Film shoulcl be cut up into strips of
not ntot:e than six exposures in length.
  In tray development  if  the film has been cut up
pin by one conrer to the edge of a shelf or hang the
negatives on a stretched string by means of a bent pin,
runnirrg the pir-r throrrgh the corncr of film to the head,
then hooking it over the string.
          Developing in Daylight
 We recommend the Kodak Film Tank. as the entire
process can be accomplished in daylight and the rvork
of developing is much more simplified.
  The generai results ol;tained by the Film Tank are
far better than the work done in dark-room.
  A11 films are put up with instructions how to prepare
them for development in the Tank Developer.
     The Common Causes of Failure
 UNDER-EXPOSURES are caused by making in-
stantaneous shots in the shade. indoors. earlv or late in
                               10

the day, or when the light is not suffrciently strotrg_to
           fully impress the object or view upotr the sensitive
          surface of the film.
        An under-exposure is easily detected irt development
        by the image appearing very slowly; while it is impos-
           sible to obtain great detail, the negative can be im-
         proved by adding a quantity of fresh developer.
        OVER-EXPOSURES are caused by too much light.
        An over-timed exposure is easily detected by the film
I        darkeningwith no contrasteveniy oras deepsoon shadows.as placed Thein  tl-renegativedeveloper.can
         be improved by weakening the developer with water or
I        by adding a small quantity of a ten per cent. solution of
         Bromide of Potassium; but should the Bromide be used
         the developer is ruined for other negatives, unless they
          are known to be over-exposed.
        UNDER-DEVELOPX{ENT.  An  urtder-developed          negative is very thin and full of-  detail; the difference
         can readily be seen from one under-exposed.
        An under-developed negative can be improved to quite
        an extetrt by intensifying with llastmatr iutensilier, fol-
         lowing directions given ou each tttbe.
        OVER-DEVELOPMENT is caused by allowing the
           negative to remain in the developer longer than it should.
       An over-developed uegative rvill appear very strong
         and intense, and requires a long time to print.
         For reducing use Eastmatr reducer. Explicit direc-
           tions on each tttbe.
        FOGGED NEGATI\IES are caused by leakage of the
          darl<-room, or by holding the negative too long in the
           rubl- light. This causes the film to darkerr soou after
I           plaiing--       in the developer.            ,\IR BUBBLES berreath the film rvhile dcveloping or
           fixing cause spots, ancl streaks are procluced by allowing
I       a Dart of the material to remait-t uucovered in some of
          the solutions.
          Wherr sending film to us -for finishing pack securely
           ancl mark as  f ollou,s:
       BLAIR CA\IERA DIVISION, EesrueN Korex Co.
                              Rochester, \. Y.
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Do not neglect to put your own lrame and address
upon the wrapper; also write us under separate cover
 stating r,vhat you are sending, advising if you wish the
 lilm developed, or developed and printed. For price list
of this work, see last page.
  Should you decide to do the finishing, w€ provide an
 outiit containing all the articles needed and the chemi-
cals already compounded, ready for use.
  The 3l'z x 3l   outfi,t 'consists of
1 Candle Lamp                                  .....$  .25
4 Developing Trays                                          .4A
  1-oz. Graduate                                          .10
 3%x3% Printing Frame                                          .2-\
   3)/, x 3'l Glass                                           .05
1 Stirring Rod. .                                               .05
r/a doz. Developing Powders                           .15
% lb.Kodak Acid trixing Powder                      .10
I doz. Sheets Velox Paper.                               .15
1 Bottle Nepera Developer                              .10
1 Pkg. Bromide Potassium                              .10
Directions                                                     .10
               Price complete, $1.50                $ 1.80
          Printing on Solio Paper
  Solio paper gives prints having beautiful warm, brown
tones, and r,vhich are usually mounted on cardboard and
highly burnished.
                            F'            tJ           Method of printing
  Open the printing frame of the outfit and lay the
negative back dorvn upon the glass (the back is the shiny
side). Place upon this a piece of Solio paper, face
down. Replace the back of the frame and secure the
springs. The back is hinged to permit of uncovering
parc of the print at a time to ir-rspect  it without destroy-
ing its register with the negative. The operation of
                               1)

aoutting in the setrsitive paper mttst be performed in
                                                             asiubdLrld light, that is to say, in an ordinary room'
i;;  ;r potJibl. from any rvirrdow. The paper not usedmust be kept covered in its envelope.
                                                 js to be  The printing frame, when filled a.s directed,
laid glass sidJ up, in the strortgest light possible .(sun-lisht-preferred)- until the 1ight, passing through tFe
nFsative irrto the serrsitive paper' has impressed lhe
i;;;"   sufficiently upon it.  Tfie progres.s of the printing.un-t" examined from time to time by rernoving theframe  f rom the strong light artd operring oue-helf 9l tlehinged.back, keeping tLe. other h.alf fastetted to hold the
Daper trom sntrtr,,gl The printing should be continued
 i"iil    tt . ptint is i  tittte d^arker iirrt than the finished
orint shouid b". Place prints without previous washing
in the following combiried toning and fixing bath:
     2 ozs. Solio Toning Solutior-r.
    4 ozs. COLD Water.
  Pour the toning solution into one of- the trays. and im-
 *"ti.  the prints,lne after the other,, in the -toning bath' F.iu" ot six prinis can be tot-red logether  if they-are kept in motion ancl not allowed to lie-in contact. Turn the
 rii"i.  ult ti." down arrd thert face up, and repeat. this
 itt tn. time they are totring' -Tb" prints..will.begin  to change color almost immediately from reddish browtr to
 i.aaftn 1'ellow, therr brown to purple. The-change will
 i"-gi"a.iol from one shade to-arrother, and the to.ning it-rnitta be stopped when the print reaches the shade
 desired.
   Six ounces of the diluted toning solution will tone two
 do),en prints ; after that a new solution should be made
 the same as before.
  When the proper shade has been attained in toning bath, the prints ihould be transferred for five mintttes
 to the foliowing salt solution to stop the toning:
        Salt, t oz.; water, 32 ozs.
  Then transfer the prints to the washing tray. and wash
 o". trori in runr-ring water, or in sixteen changes of
 water.
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The prints are then ready for mounting, or they can
be laid out and dried between blotting papers.
      Printing on Developing-Out Paper
                   Velox and Azo
  These papers may be safely handled for the purpose
of placing in printing frame and developing, eight to ten
 feet away from an orditrary full flame of artificial light,
or three or four feet away if the light is turned low.
 \Vith \Velsbach light or daylight  it is necessary to re-
duce the light somewhat by shading the light or window
 '"r'ith one thickness of orange post-office paper.
  Place the paper in an ordinary printing frame, in the
same manner as when using printing-out paper, having
the ernulsion side of the paper toward the dull side of
the negative. After the paper is placed in the frame in
perfect contact with negative, expose by holding the
frame close to gas, lamp or incandescent  light, or sub-
dued daylight. Artificial light is recommended in pref-
erence to daylight because of its uniformity  ar-rd -be.ingin consequence easier to judge the proper length of time
to expose.                         I
 The amount of Exposure varies according to  the
strength of the light.  It takes about the same time wrth
arr ordirrary gas burrer as all irrcandescent light. The
Welsbach recuires about onlv one-half as much time as
the ordinary gas bumer and- l<erosene light of ordinary
size about three times as much as an ordinary gas burn-
er.  If daylight is used the window should be covered
with post-office paper in which a sub-window about one
foot square for making the exposure may be made.
Cover this sub-window or opening with two or three
sheets of tissue paper so as to diffuse the light, then
have a piece of black cloth or post-office paper to put
over the opening when the white light is not warrterl
for makirg exposure. The printing frame should be
kept from one to trvo feet away from the opening cov-
ered with tissue papern'hen making an exposure.
  The time necessary for exposing is regulated by the
                               L4

densitv of negative arrd strength of light. The further
the negative is from the source of light at the trme qr                                           to                             tlre            weaker         the                               -light,..hence,                                         to,secure-unl-make the                                alwavs                          is desirable                               it          exposure"*pot#.foimity inexpostlre at a grven altttr." ttom the light.used- With
a negative of medium density exposed olle toot trom an
ordiiary gas burtter about t'rvo minutes exposure ls
required.
  The temoerature of the developer should be from 65"                                                use                                                                                    .is,o ]o;   r'"-tt'*tiri"it, attd the proper develope-r to
the otte put up by the compally. who manutactures tne
;;;";:  is'the besf results will alwavs be obtained when
;;i"c'their developers' as substitute.s very of.ten a,re 19t                                           printspiop-ortiottecl                  and nattlrally              correctly                                    go l,ot                                      -the                                                            tne                                             closely                      Always tollow                should. irrrrl out as they
directions as given with the developer'
            To DeveloP
  Immerse the paper in the developer, using ca.re, that
 it flows evenly over the surface atrd leaves no alr Dells'
 Th;il";;-ihould   appear in about.eighj 9r l9n seconds ,na *n"?  ttt" prini- is developed sufficiently remove ouicklv from the developer and rinse in clear water be-
 f=or" placitrg  irr the Kodak acid fixing bath'
  The fixing bath should be in acc,ordance with formula
 ei;;-   *ittt-ttt"  pip.t and should be kept fresh,. and irints should be l<ept in motion or,ot  allowed to lle on i;;';j   ori.'"toitter'while in this bath. After becoming
 i[[r"tgttiv  n""d, which takes about ten minutes, they should"bi removed and washed for about one hour in
 i"""i"g  water, or ten or twelve changes.of clear water'  The prints should then be removed trom the water      ptl..a on a glass,  f ace dowt-t, and thq water
 "tta;;;.;;A;;t    o1 it'ei' bv placing a blotter on the back           a roller over the blo1ter, and then they may
 6e-placed"iri-it."i"g 6etrveen l;iotting paper- to dry, after rvhich
 thev can be trimmed and mounted'
  More explicit directions are given with each kind of
 Pa'er'
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Price List
 No. 2 Weno Hawk-Eye. not loaded...  . .       .. $ 5.00
 Leather Carrying Case, rvith shoulder strap. . . . . .    1.25
 Eastman N. C. Cartridge Film, 6 exp., 3% x 3%    .30
 Eastman N. C. Cartriclge Film, 12 exp.,3%x3%  .60
 \\'-eno Sliding Tripod                                      .90
Hau,k-Eye Folding Tripod                              1.60
 Developing and Prir.rting Outfit                        I.25
 Developing, printing and mounting on Velox,   3rr/zx3l5, per roll of 12 exposures
Do., unmounted                                       1.38
Developing, printing and mounting on \re1ox,  3rlx3rl, per roll of 6 exposures..
Do., unmounted                                          .69
Developing only,3l x3tl, per roll of 12 exposures  .70
Do., per roll of 6 exposures....                     .35
Printirrg only, unmounted on Velox                     .07
Do., mounted                                              .08
     No orders erecuted,  f or less than 25 cents.
 B x 10 Bromide Enlargements, mounted on card        ./J
10 x 12 Bromide Enlargements, mounted on card    1.00
   If, in onr opinion, the print will be improved by double
mounting, we will do so at an adclitional charge of 10
cents, or triple mounted at 15 cents.
  The following supplies may be used with the No. 2
Weno Hawk-Eye and can be obtained from your dealer
or the Eastman Kodak Co., Rochester, N. Y.:
Kodak Fiirn Tank, 3/z inch                $ s.00
Duplicating Outfit for same                            2.50
Kodak Tank Developer Powders for 3% inch  Tank, per rl  doz.   .                                         .20
                              t6

THE KODAK
CORRESPONDENCE
    COLLEGE

A course which will increase your
   photographic pleasure with a
     Hawk-Eye Camera
by helping you to make better pictures


Tuition, two dollars, which includes
  a handsome cloth bound copy
       of the School Text Book
" The Modern Vay
       in Picture Making "

                   www.butkus.us