Film cameras
Kowa KALLOFLEX Automat K2 User manual
User manual for Kowa KALLOFLEX Automat K2. 16 pages in English. Read the original PDF, download or print a copy without registration.
16 pagesEnglish1.1 MB PDF
Loading your manual…Open PDF directly
Document details
- Brand
- Kowa
- Model / document
- Kowa KALLOFLEX Automat K2
- Document type
- User manual
- Language
- English
- Pages
- 16
- File size
- 1.1 MB
- Category
- Film cameras
- Document date
- Not specified in catalog
Search available document text
Find a term, then jump to its page in the original PDF. Image-only pages may not be searchable; check the PDF for exact wording and diagrams.
Page 2 · Read text
1. Hood lifting button. 2. Exposure counter. 3. Film advance and shutter tensioning crank. 4. Depth of field scale. 5. Focusing knob. 6. Film indicator. 7. Distance scale. 8. Lever for shutter speed control. 9. Synchro M-X lever. 10. Direct view finder panel. 11. Indication window for shutter and diaphragm lever.View original page 2
Page 3 · Read text
12. Flash cable socket.
13. Lever for diaphragm control.
14. Shutter release button.
15. Shutter release guard.
16. Tripod socket. Back lock.
17. Winding key for take-up spool.
18. Eyelet slot for neck strap.
19. Take-up spool knob.
20. Red mark for loading film.
21. Accessory clip.
22. Film spool knob.
23. Film pressure plate.
24. Anti-reflection baffle.
KALLOFLEX INSTRUCTIONS MANUAL FOR PRACTICAL USE
Your KALLO FLEX CAMERA is a precision-engineered
instrument that will give you many years of plea sure. You
will find that your KALLO FLEX is faster to operate (a
single lever stroke advances and counts your film, winds
and winds the shutter), easier to operate (all your settings
are viewed from the top,,, you never have to remove the
camera from its shooting position.
Your KALLO FLEX CAMERA contains the finest optical
system... highly color corrected, 4-element, 75 mm f 3.5
Taking-Lens with an amazing resolving power of 125
Lines per millimeter wide open.
The exclusive, KALLO FLEX convex ground glass makes
your picture simpler and surer.., the focusing screen
actually gives you up, to 50% brighter center image and 5
times brighter image at the edges.View original page 3Page 5 · Read text
B. Taking the picture
1) Remove the lens cap by
lifting it away from the
bottom lens with your finger
nail and then turn counter
clock wise about a quarter
turn to release the upper part
from the upper lens bayonet.
2) Erect the focusing hood
by moving button (1) in the
direction of the arrow.
3) Raise the magnifier to assist critical focusing by use of the finger nail. To close the magnifier, push it down
until it snaps into position. Do not touch the lens itself in these operations since it is difficult to focus the camera
if the magnifier lens is dirty. Always clean loses with optical lens tissue.
4) To use the Direct view sports finder at eye level, push in panel (10) until it snaps into place. Be sure to raise
the magnifier before you attempt to push in panel. To close the sports finder, press the back release located
behind the viewing hood to your right.
5) To focus the camera, turn the
focusing knob (5) forward or
backward. You will observe
that the image becomes sharp
and unsharp as you do this.
When image appears sharpest
on the ground glass, the camera
is in focus.
The magnifier enables you to
get the sharpest possible
focus. Since the two lenses
operate together, the taking lens
is properly focused when the
ground glass image is sharp.
The Kallo flex camera
incorporate an exclusive
focusing design in its ground
glass.
The glass has a convex slope that permits the photographer to view his subjects without bending over the
camera or tilting it. This convex glass also provides a brighter picture area.
6) Center your subject in ground glass, using hairlines on the ground glass to center and compose your picture.
What you see on the ground glass will be on the film. Hairlines will enable you to compose your picture eitherView original page 5Page 6 · Read text
for horizontal or vertical format in enlarging.
Center square made by hairlines also makes it possible for you to compose the picture for 2,X 2" slide.
Inexpensive paper mounts for 2" X 2" slide from 120 Roll film can be obtained at any photographic store.
7) The Kalloflex does not require any mechanical compensation for Parallax adjustment. The slope of the
Ground Glass and the design of the viewing system eliminate the possibility of cutting off heads in closeups of
people. This is accomplished by our taking off a very small area from the part of the Ground Glass where this
difficulty would ordinarily occur.
8) Setting the Diaphragm - The maximum lens
opening of the picture taking lens on this camera
is F3.5. This is a measure of the ratio of the
diameter of the lens to the focal length of the
lens. It is a measure of the amount of light that
can pass through the lens. The lens openings can
also be set to F 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22 each setting
closes down the lens opening by about half the
amount. F/11 permits half the light allowed by
F8 to pass through the lens. The diaphragm lever
(13) sets the lens openings. You will notice that
there is a click stop for each setting, permitting
you to change lens settings in dim light or
without looking at the window (11) where the
setting is shown.
9) Setting the Shutter Speeds - The Seikosha MFX shutter permits a full range of shutter - speeds to be used. It
also has click stops that will show the setting in the window (11).
The shutter speeds are B. 1, 2, 5, 10, 25, 50, 100, 250 and 500. To change from one speed to another, move
lever (8).
10) To snap the picture, hold the camera so that
it sits snugly in the palm of your left hand with
your left forefinger or thumb over the Shutter
Release Button (14). Using your right hand to
turn your Focusing Knob (5) you're ready to
take your picture instantly. Merely press gently
on the shutter release button. If the button does
not depress, check to see whether the shutter
release guard (15) has been set to prevent
accidental exposures. Move it to the other side
in that case. If the film has not been wound, then
the shutter is not set and the picture cannot be
taken until the film is wound by moving crank
(3) forward until it stops and then back until it
stops.View original page 6Page 7 · Read text
| Summary of operating procedures |
1. Set the lens opening and shutter speeds for the proper exposure
2. Focus the camera
3. Take the picture
4.- Wind the film, setting the shutter
If the film has been wound, the shutter can be
released, If the shutter cannot be released, the film
has not been advanced. When winding the shutter
and advancing the film the operation is a motion
forward of crank (3) until it stops and then a motion
back again until it stops. With each exposure, the
amount of crank travel decreases gradually to about
half a turn.
After the 12th and last exposure, several complete
forward turns will wind off the paper backing of the
film and the number "O", will appear in the exposure
counter window.
C. Setting the Aperture & Shutter Speed
1) The correct exposure is achieved by the proper setting of the lens opening (diaphragm) and the shutter
speeds. A good basic exposure to use in outdoor pictures in sunlight is at 1/50 second. The use of an exposure
meter or following the instructions that come with your film will be helpful in getting properly exposed
negatives. If the light is less bright, as on the shaded side of a street, open the lens one stop to F8 leaving the
shutter at 1/50 second. If the light is brighter than average, as at the beach or in the mountains or on the water,
close down the lens one stop to F 16 with the shutter left at 1/50 second.
In very dim light, pictures can be obtained with the new fast films at f3.5 and 1/50 second. An exposure meter is
needed for such dim light conditions.
2) Shutter speeds of 1/100, 1/250 and 1/500 are used to stop fast action if pictures are taken of fast moving
objects or sporting events. Since the amount of light is cut clown by faster shutter speeds, the lens opening has
to be opened to obtain equivalent exposures.
Shutter speeds can be changed even after the film has been wound and the shutter set.
The exception to this is the speed of 1/500 second. You cannot move to this speed after the shutter has been
wound.
Diaphragm 3.5 4 5.6 8 11 16 22
Exposure 3/8 1/2 1 2 4 8 16View original page 7Page 8 · Read text
3) The Kallo flex camera can
be used with a Leica type
cable release which fits over
the shutter release button
(14). To take a time exposure,
set the shutter to B (Bulb)
which causes the shutter to
remain open as long as
pressure is maintained on the
shutter release, press the
shutter release and swing the
safeguard release to locked
position. To close the shutter,
swing the release guard down
to the inside position.
4) Intentional double exposures are possible. To
reset the shutter without advancing the film,
push down the release button at the back of
Focusing knob and turn the crank
counterclockwise (backward) one full turn.
5) To take your own picture, attach a separate Self-Timer
to the shutter release, using a Leica type adapter. The
model with the curved stem will not get in the way of the
lens.
The Self Timer lets you get into the picture even if taken
by flash or strobe lighting.View original page 8Page 9 · Read text
6) To remove the front hood of case hold camera in a picture-taking position, with hood open. Grasping hood near the Metal hinge, pull to the left so that the hinge disengages. To replace hood, engage hinge at the right side, pull toward the left so that you can engage left side of hinge. (see illustration)View original page 9
Page 10 · Read text
D. Depth of Field Scale
The purpose of a diaphragm is not only
to adjust the amount of light that
passes through the lens but also to
control the depth of field. When a
certain point is focused upon, a certain
area before that point and behind that
point will also be in sharp focus.
The zone of sharp focus depends upon
the distance from the point focused
upon and the F stop used for the
exposure. The smaller the F stop the
greater the depth of field. The further
the distance focused upon the greater
depth of field. The 2 diaphragm scales
above the focusing knob indicate the
extent of the depth of field for any
focused distance or desired stop.View original page 10Page 11 · Read text
Hyper focal Distance When
your camera is set for infinity,
what the nearest distance that
is sharp ? Hyperfocal distance
for this camera is as follows:
F 3.5 108.7'
F 4 101.3'
F 5.6 71.8'
F 8 50.4'
F 11 36.8'
F 16 25.3'
F 22 18.5'
If you focus your camera on the Hyper focal distance, everything from half of the distance to infinity will be
sharp.
For example, we are taking pictures outdoors at F 8. The Hyperfocal distance is 50'. Set your camera for 50' at
F 8, now everything will be in sharp focus from 25' to infinity. At F 16, set your camera for 25', the distance
from 12' to infinity will be sharp.
E. FLASH PHOTOGRAPHY
In modern flash photography the camera shutter takes over the task of firing the bulb electrically at the right
moment. The Seikosha-MX shutter in the KALLOFLEX is for this purpose, equipped with MFX contacts. This
enables adjustment to the required delay of the flash lamps should be synchronized to all shutter speeds by
means of changing lever.View original page 11Page 12 · Read text
1. X- Contact This is used for an electronic or strobe flash unit with zero delay. The flash goes off as soon as the shutter blades reach full opening. Since the duration of the flash itself is actually shorter than and shutter setting, any shutter speed may be selected, but it is advisable to use a speed of 1/100 second. 2. F-Contact This is applicable to F-Class bulb, and is made approximately 5 milliseconds, before the shutter blades are fully opened. F-Class bulb is comparatively low in its illumination power so it is most suitable to use in ordinary room or in your home at about 15 feet. 3. M-Contact This is applicable to M-Class bulb which has a considerably higher power illumination and a long light duration as illustrated. The contact is made approximately 20 milk-seconds before the shutter blades reach full opening. The intensity of flash illumination decreases according to the square of the distance, therefore the distance from flash to subject must be carefully measured in selecting diaphragm opening. Lamp manufacturers will supply guide numbers to use which are divided by the distance in feet to get the required diaphragm opening. The last but not least. Never forget to attach a lens hood in flash photography.View original page 12
Page 13 · Read text
F. TO USE FILM REMINDER DIAL ON FOCUSING KNOB
Center scale indicates type of film you cite using, and is adjusted by turning protruding pins on dial face. To set
the proper ASA film speed on the outer dial, press knurled rim down, by pushing at opposite edges of the rim,
which turning to the film speed desired.
The film speed in ASA shown in numbers on the disk, 8, 10, 12, 16,
25, 32, 40, 50, 100, 160, 200, and 400. While the type of film is
classified in Ortho, Pan, D. Col, T Col, and I.R.
D. Col. - Daylight color film.
T. Col. - Tungsten color film.
I. R. - Infrared film.
COMPARISON TABLE OF FILM SPEEDS
ASA 8 10 12 16 25 32 40 50 100 125 160 200
WESTON 6 8 10 12 20 24 32 40 80 100 125 160
DIN 11 12 13 14 16 17 18 19 22 23 24 25
Exposure Ratio 6.5 5 4 3.5 2 1 2/3 1 1/3 1 1/2 3/5 1/3 1/4View original page 13Page 15 · Read text
Kallo 2 way electronic flash 1 ) KALLO Lens Hood; which is fixed securely by means of its bayonet mount, and prevents stray light from reaching the lens. Especially it will be essential for your synchroflash takings. 2) KALLO Filters; which is attached by means of its bayonet mount, and will insure you to take better pictures. They are classified as follows: Yellow Filter Absorb ultra-violet and some blue-violet rays. It is suitable for landscape or portrait use outdoors. Especially never fail to use it for such as a scenery of beach, a landscape of snow etc. that reflection of the light is particularly strong. ( Exposure factor: 1.5 x~2 x) Orange Filter Absorbing ultra-violet, violet, blue, and green rays it is used far darkening the blue sky to emphasize cloud effects, as sometimes called a ''contrast filter''. Moreover, it will exhibit much remarkable effects in the case of taking pictures with infrared films. (Exposure factor: 2.5 x~3 x)View original page 15
Page 16 · Read text
Ultra Violet Filter Absorbing the greater part of the ultra-violet and some blue-violet rays, it is sometimes called " haze filter''. When photographed without this filter, the haze--a large amount of ultra-violet rays--hides same of the detail visible in the original scene. In using color film, this filter will bring out the most natural color rendition. (Exposure factor: 1 x~1.2 x) Kowa Optical Works - Kofuku Sangyo Co, LDT.View original page 16
From the M. Butkus archive. Original publisher and archive notices are retained.
Check the model and edition against your equipment.
PDF verified 2026-10-10.