Minox camera User manual

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Opening the camera * Telescopic Rapid Wind * Holding the MINOX * Distance setting * Zone of sharpness *
Setting the shutter * Built-in exposure meter * MINOX always works at f/3.s * Viewfinder Exposure counter *
Loading ASA film speeds * Un-loading * Filters * Measuring chain * Take care of your MINOX ........2

Tips for best results

The "best" film * Correct exposure measurement * Steady * Longer exposures Frame your subject * Close-ups of
small things * How to stop moving subjects Flash is easy * It's a colorful world * Copying Changing the film type . . .
28

What happened? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

The MINOX Camera Clamp . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

The MINOX Pocket Tripod . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44

The MINOX Slide Projector . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45

The MINOX Enlarger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45

Other MINOX Accessories . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 - 47

Subject size and depth of field tables . . . . . . . . Inside Back Cover

Congratulations--with your MINOX B you are embarking on a new, un-burdened kind of picture taking: Your
MINOX B is not only exceptionally small, precise and modern, it is also far easier to use than almost any other
camera. It will give you lots of pleasure!
It's easy to get fine pictures with the MINOX B but, naturally, the more you know about the camera, the better, more
certain, will be the results. This little book wants to show you the way.4www.butkus.org
Read the various sections carefully--it's time well spent, and will pay off generously in fine MINOX pictures!

The first section explains the best way to hold the MINOX, how to load it and unload it, how to set it.
Part two will help you select the proper kind of film for best results, and tells about color photography, flash, filters,
close-ups, and about some special uses for your MINOX.
The final pages come in handy if something goes wrong; there you will find the cause - usually a minor mistake
which may occur if you have not read the first two sections carefully! And it's so easy to avoid such mistakes.

But NOW--why not get acquainted with the ease of MINOX photography?

HERE'S HOW

You are, naturally, anxious to put the first film into your MINOX and to
start shooting pictures. P I e a s e hold on for little while, and get to know
the most important features of the camera while it is still unloaded.

You'll be much more confident and sure of success when you know more
about the "HOW".

Opening the camera
The camera is closed when you take it out of its leather case. To open it for picture taking, grasp it with both hands as

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shown here, and pull it open as far as it will go. This brings out the viewfinder and lens window, and makes the
MINOX ready for shooting.

Telescopic rapid wind

After you have taken a picture, 'close' the camera. Then, for the
next picture, you pull it open again. That's the secret of the
telescopic rapid winding mechanism of the MINOX: Each time
the camera is closed and re-opened, the film is advanced for the
next picture, the shutter is re-cocked, and the exposure counter
moves to the next number, all automatically!4www.butkus.org

In a hurry? ONE-TWO-your MINOX is ready for the next
picture. But it's important to close and open all the way every
time!

The small circle in the lens window :indicates that the shutter is
wound ready for the next picture. The circle disappears after you
have released the shutter. That's your signal that you must 'push-
pull' before you take the next picture. Clear and simple, isn't it?

Hold it steady

A steady and firm hold is the best assurance for good pictures with your
MINOX. If the camera moves while you are taking a picture, you are bound to
get blurred results. Hold the camera firmly, yet relaxed, with your hands
steadied against the face. Keep both thumbs under the camera, other fingers on
top or at the side so that the lens and exposure meter window are unobstructed.
The illustrations on this and the next page show the most practical way of
holding your MINOX; it's a firm and steady hold, and nothing covers the lens,
viewfinder, or exposure meter window.

It's a good idea to practice this hold in front of a mirror to check yourself, You'll
notice that the same hold is used for horizontal and vertical pictures.

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Taking the picture

Now that you know the proper hold, look into the viewfinder and frame your
picture in the luminous rectangle; when you're all set, squeeze the shutter release
button gently. A little counter-pressure from the thumb underneath the camera
helps to keep the MINOX steady. The shutter operates so smoothly and quietly--
the picture is taken without effort!

The MINOX B requires a minimum of operating steps: Setting distance and
exposure is all that's needed--and easy, too.

Above: Correct hold for horizontal pictures

Right: Similar hold for vertical pictures.

Distance setting

There are two engraved discs on the control panel of your MINOX; the smaller one is
the distance scale. It is calibrated from infinity (oo) to 8 inches, with additional
markings 6: 3, 2, 11/2, 1 ft., and 10 inches. A red dot indicates 12 ft., and also serves as
a general "snapshot" setting.

To set a given camera-to-subject distance, rotate the distance dial with your finger on the knurled centre until the
desired distance number is at the black dot of the 'sharpness zone' bracket.

This little bracket is more important than the black dot in its centre:4www.butkus.org

Let's say you are taking pictures at a picnic, with the distance setting at 12 feet that's (that's the red dot between
and 6'). The campfire is 12 feet away, some of the guests are sitting at a table 8 feet from the camera, while one of the
youngsters is just bringing an extra log and is now l5 feet away from you. You'll get them all perfectly sharp in your
MINOX picture, because it gives you a sharpness 'bonus' in front and beyond the focused distance. The zone of
sharpness from nearest to farthest distance is also called "depth-of-field". The bracket along the distance scale tells
you the extent of the zone of sharpness for every distance setting.

For most of your pictures, you don't have to set the distance critically. It is sufficient if the main object of your picture
is within the zone of sharpness. The MINOX has exceptionally great depth of field and makes focusing very simple.

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You get the greatest zone of sharpness with the red dot (Snapshot Setting); from 6
feet to infinity (a). This is your ideal choice for all pictures which require quick
readiness, fast shooting. You can shoot groups, games, travel pictures, races --
whatever comes before your camera--as long as the main point of interest is at least
6 feet from the camera.

This snapshot setting (see illustration at top will take care of most of your pictures.

Use the snapshot setting for scenery only if an important part of the foreground is
closer than 12 ft. Otherwise, always use the infinity (00) setting for landscape
pictures (sharpness reaches from 12 ft. to infinity).

Two other settings with zones of sharpness from 4 ft. to 11 ft., and from 3 ft. to 6 ft., respectively, are shown in the
illustrations on the previous page. Complete tables showing the depth of field ranges and subject sizes at various
distance settings are shown on page 51. (inside back cover).

As you can see, the zone of sharpness gets smaller at closer distances, and at very close distances it amounts to inches
and less. Therefore, close distances must be set carefully on the distance scale, but that is easy because the safety
chain of your MINOX has small beads for distances corresponding exactly with the close distance settings engraved
on the distance scale. With the chain locked in the camera sod et, held taut and at right angles from the camera to the
subject, the beads are placed at 8,10,12, and 18 inches; the full length of the chain is 24 inches.

To sum up:
You need not set distances beyond 3 feet too critically - make the "sharpness zone" bracket do the work for you.4www.butkus.org

Set the distance scale so that the important part of the picture is safely within the sharpness zone.

For extreme close-ups always use the measuring chain.

The shutter

To produce a well defined, correctly exposed picture, the film must absorb a definite
amount of light. The less light comes from the picture area, the longer this light must
act on the film -- the shutter must stay open for a longer time. Very bright scenes
require only a short shutter speed. This length of "exposure" is regulated with the
larger dial on the control panel of your MINOX. You can set the shutter while the
camera is still closed, or after it has been opened, whether the shutter is cocked nor
not.

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To set the shutter speed, place the thumb on the knurled centre of the shutter speed dial while holding the forefinger
under the camera and, with the other hand, turn the camera. (See illustration). It's really very easy. The engraved
figures represent fractions of a second: 2 indicates l/2 second, 1000 is 1/1000 second, etc.

But, don't let these figures worry you--you need not even look at them! Yours is a MINOX B--the built-in coupled
exposure meter does the thinking for you. (See page 29 for some helpful hints on exposure measurement!)

The built-in coupled exposure meter

The coupled exposure meter distinguishes the MINOX B from the MINOX A camera. You need not estimate shutter
speeds, you don't even have to refer to a table or scale, and then transfer shutter speeds from l/2 to 1/1000 second to
the shutter speed dial. The exposure meter is coupled with the shutter speed dial. You simply match a pointer with an
indicator needle --that's all: You have already set the correct shutter speed! Only once-- when you put the first film
into the camera --do you set the exposure meter for the 'speed' of the film, and couple it with the shutter. (see page
20). You need never touch the meter setting again until you use film of a different speed.

Using the exposure meter is child's play:

Before you take a picture, look at the scene through the viewfinder - just be careful not to cover the front window of
the meter with your finger - and hold down the meter button with the forefinger or third finger of your left hand. After
two or three seconds, let the button go and take the camera from your eye.

Look at the scene through the Turn shutter speed dial until open
viewfinder; hold down the meter triangle (upper left arrow) points to
Yare are now ready to take the picture.
button for two or three seconds: indicator needle (upper right arrow)
Hold the camera correctly!
release the button and take the along connection line. This sets
camera from your eye exposure automatically

At one end of the camera you will see the curved indicator window of the exposure meter, and next to it--surrounding
the meter button--a flat disc with an open triangle mark and a green dot. The rotating disc and indicator window are
connected by thin black lines. When you turn the shutter speed dial, the meter disc with the triangle mark also turns:
both are coupled. Now turn the shutter speed dial until the open triangle is set to the black line that connects with the
indicator needle. If the needle is between two lines, set the open triangle between the two lines also.
By thus pointing the open triangle to the line leading to the indicator needle, you have automatically set the correct
shutter speed. If the shutter speed dial happens to be set between engraved numbers, don't worry: The shutter speed
scale of the MINOX B is matched with the exposure meter, providing an infinite range of speeds between 1/2 and
1/000 second.

If you are using the green filter with black and white film (see page 24), turn the green dot - instead of the open
triangle - to the indicator needle. This setting automatically compensates for the exposure difference required by the

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green filter.

The second measuring range

Outdoor exposure with ASA as and ASA so film are usually
somewhere between 1/50 and 1/1000 second. However, with faster
films, and for very bright scenes (beach in brilliant sun, glaciers,
snow in high mountain areas, etc.) even 1/000 second may produce
overexposure.

To switch to second measuring range: push filter slide all the way in.

The shutter speed dial cannot be turned past the '1000' mark to line up the meter disc with indicator needle. Therefore,
a second measuring range has been provided.

If you cannot line up the open triangle with the indicator needle, push the filter slide above the viewfinder window all
the way in (see illustration). This puts a neutral density (grey) filter in front of the lens, and switches the exposure
meter automatically to compensate for the exposure difference imposed by the filter.4www.butkus.org

After this "switch", proceed as usual: Look at the scene through the viewfinder - hold down the meter button two or
three seconds - turn open triangle to indicator needle. The neutral density filter now puts the exposure into the normal
speed scale.

Whenever the resulting shutter speed is slower than 1/50 second (1/20, 1/10, etc.), remember to brace your hands with
the camera against a wall, tree, or other firm support. Otherwise a blurred picture may result. Of course, the MINOX
Tripod (page 44) is ideal for this purpose; in fact, it is indispensable for longer (B and T) exposures.

B and T exposures

In addition to speeds of 1/2 to 1/1000 second, the shutter speed dial has the letters B and T engraved. What do they
meant

B: The shutter opens when the shutter release button is pressed down and closes again when you let the button go;

T: The shutter opens when the shutter release button is pressed down and stays open until the button is pressed a
second time.

Both settings are designed for longer exposures: 'B' for exposures from one to several seconds, 'T' for still longer
exposures. For such extended exposure, the MINOX must be placed on a solid support, or mounted on a tripod with

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the camera clamp (page44), and released with a cable release. The MINOX Tripod (page44) comes already equipped
with a cable release.

The exposure meter does not automatically set exposures of more than 1/2 second,
but it indicates exposures up to 2 seconds.

If, after using the meter, the shutter speed scale is set to the left '2' (1/2 second) this
indicates an exposure longer than ah second which must be obtained by using the B
or T settings.

If the shutter speed dial points to the blue dot between '2' and B (see illustration at left), the indicated exposure is 1
second; if the dial points to B. the indicated exposure is 2 seconds. (see illustration at right). Exposures indicated by
intermediate positions can be estimated. After you have determined these longer exposures, turn the shutter speed dial
to B or T and hold the shutter open for the required time.

The illustrations show: top -- positions of speed dial after setting meter triangle mark to indicator needle; middle -
setting of dial for making the exposure; bottom - a reminder to use a tripod or other firm support.

Flash Pictures

The shutter of the MINOX B is synchronized for flash; you can attach any type of
flash unit to the MINOX B: Electronic flash units or flash guns which use flash
bulbs. Attach the end of the flash cable to the flash plug of your MINOX. The flash
unit is actuated when you press the shutter release button. The built-in exposure
meter is not used for flash exposure; the shutter speed scale is set: for flash bulbs --
to 1/20th second or slower;4www.butkus.org

For electronic flash units: to 1/500th second or slower.

Small flash units are attached to the MINOX by means of the flash adapter; for
larger units use the MINOX camera clamp and a flash bracket, which is often
supplied as standard equipment with flash units.

For more complete information on flash light photography, see page 34.

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To sum up:

The MINOX B has a built-in exposure meter coupled to the shutter speed dial which regulates shutter speeds from 1/2
to 1/1000 second; you simply point a triangle mark to the indicator needle of the exposure meter.

When the scene is so bright that even 1/1000 second would produce over-exposure, slide the neutral density filter in
front of the lens. The exposure meter switches automatically to its second measuring range. Shutter speeds fall within
the normal speed range. Exposures of more than 1/2, second are not automatically set on the shutter speed dial.
However, the position of the shutter speed dial after 'matching' the indicator needle indicates up to 2 seconds exposure
which must be obtained by using the B or T setting.

#o F-stop setting - an important MI#OX advantage

If you are an advanced amateur photographer, you may wonder why there has not yet been any mention of f-stops. It's
simply because the MINOX has no f-stops! The 15mm Complan lens of your MINOX yields such extreme depth of
field and, together with the slightly spherical curved design of the film gate, gives such outstanding definition over the
entire film area that an adjustable lens diaphragm could be omitted --saving you an extra operation necessary with
other cameras. That's another reason why the MINOX is so easy to use!

The MI#OX always works at full f/3.5 lens opening.

The viewfinder
The luminous white frame within the large MINOX viewfinder shows you the exact picture area that will appear on
the film. The viewfinder image is automatically corrected, at all distances, to agree with the film image. (Parallax
Compensation). For extreme close-ups (8 -10 inches), the picture area lies a frame-width within the luminous frame.

The viewfinder eyepiece is so large that even spectacle wearers can observe the full viewfinder area; furthermore,
they may use the MINOX viewfinder without special correction lens.

The exposure counter

The curved window next to the distance scale tells you how many exposures you
have already made on a film. Before you insert a fresh film, the exposure counter
must be set at the red dot between 50 and 0 (see illustration).

If you have just finished a complete 50-exposure film, the counter will already be at
this setting. However, if you finished a 36-exposure film, or if the counter is at any
other setting, you must set the counter by repeating a 1/4-inch 'push-pull' of the
camera until it is set at the red dot.

Loading with film

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Film cassettes should be shielded from bright sunlight. Always load - or un-load
- the MINOX in subdued light, or in the shade. (If there is no other shade within
reach, turn your back towards the sun!)

The built-in exposure meter must be set to the speed of the film when you load
your first film into the camera, and if you change to a film of different speed.
The necessary steps are printed in blue on these pages.

If, after completing the first film, you again use film of the same speed, you can
ignore the instructions printed in blue. Just make sure that the shutter speed dial
is not turned while you are changing films.4www.butkus.org

Set exposure counter at red dot (see previous page).

Set the exposure meter - while the camera is still closed - by turning the
camera shutter speed dial until the ASA film speed pointer (solid triangles) of
the meter disc points to the ASA number of the fill to be used: 25-50- 100, etc.
(See page 22 for intermediate ASA numbers).

Pull the camera 'out'. Press town on crescent-shaped snap lock (white arrow in
illustration 2) ant slide open the back cover until both film compartment are
free.

Turn camera shutter speed dial to '100' which is marked with a red dot.
(Illustration 3).

''Close'' the camera about 1/8 inch to spread the film gate open; this occurs when the snap lock almost disappears in
the camera (illustration 4). You can feel a definite resistance and see the gate open.

The film can be inserter--and taken out-- O#LY with an open film gate!

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Drop the cassette into the film compartments. (see illustration 5). (There is
only ONE way to insert the cassette--you can't make a mistake!)

Close the back cover until it snaps shut, and push the camera closed. 'Pull-
push' camera once to advance the exposed film frame into take-up end of
cassette. (illustration 6). If the back cover cannot be closed--this is a rare
occurrence when the film take-up core is resting on the teeth of the transport
wheel in the film compartment -- lift out the cassette, pull the camera open all
the way, and close again until the film gate opens. This advances the film
transport wheel. Re-insert the cassette, and proceed as described on page 21.

Intermediate ASA film speeds can also be set on the exposure meter by using the short lines on either side of the
solid ASA triangle. as follows:

Engraved numbers: 25 50 100 200 400

LEFT LINE set on engraved number gives correct reading for: 16 32 64 125 250

RIGHT LINE set on engraved number gives correct reading for: 40 80 160 320 640

(Example: To set meter for ASA 32 -- set LEFT LINE on '50').

Un-loading
Watch the exposure counter--so is the last exposures Push-and-pull the camera twice. The exposure counter should
now be at the red dot. Now open the back cover and spread the film gate open (as if to load). See page 21.

The film cassette will drop out the camera with slight tapping, or it may be lifted out by its bridge. Store the cassette
in a film box, or wrap it in black paper until it is developed.

If the next film has a different ASA number, set the exposure meter for the new ASA number before opening the
camera to remove the previous film. This saves you another step later on. (See page 20 about setting the meter).

* Some films have only 36 exposures -- see film package. After the 36th exposure, push-pull twice until film counter
is at the red line between 37 and 38; then remove cassette. Advance exposure counter to the red dot between 50 and 0
before inserting a new cassette.
CAUTIO#: Do not advance films beyond the numbers indicated above, as the film end may be pulled
completely into the take-up side; this may result in light entering through the cassette slit during un-loading.

To sum up:
Exposure counter must be at the red dot before a new film is inserted. Film gate must be open when film is inserted or
taken out. The exposure meter is properly coupled with the shutter speed dial, if the black triangle of the meter disc
points to the correct ASA number when the camera shutter speed dial it is '100'.

What film is in the camera?

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If you have forgotten the speed of the film you have in the camera--simply turn the camera shutter speed dial to '100'
and read the position of the solid black triangle on the meter disc!

Built-in filter
The MINOX B has two built-in filters which can be placed before the lens by means of the filter slide: a grey (neutral
density) filter, and a green filter.

Both filters have basically different tasks. The grey filter cuts down the light
when even 1/1000 second would produce over-exposure in brilliant sunshine
with fast film. With the grey filter before the lens, the exposure meter is
automatically switched to its second measuring range. You may use the grey
filter with black-and-white or color film.

The green filter, on the other hand, is intended to improve the tonal
reproduction of natural colors in black and white pictures -- regardless of
light conditions. You will find it particularly helpful in sunny landscapes:
Green foliage, lawns, meadows, etc. will show better modulation in the print,
the sky will be slightly darkened so that clouds stand out better. But, don't use
the green filter with color film; it will turn the whole scene green!

Filter slide pushed half-way in: green
filter in place.

The green filter absorbs some light and calls for slightly longer than normal exposure: Simply turn the green dot of
the meter disc (instead of the open triangle) to the meter indicator needle; that takes care of correcting the exposure
when you use the green filter.

Make sure that the filter you use fills the lens window completely.

Remember to push back the filter slide after use, if you want to take the next picture without a filter!

To sum up:
The grey filter prolongs exposure if the normal shutter speed range is insufficient. You may use it with black-and-
white or color films.
The green filter is used with black and white film for better landscape and cloud pictures. It must not be used with
color film.

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Attaching the measuring chain

To protect your MINOX against accidental falls, always keep it on its chain.
Insert the rectangular plug at the end of the chain into the corresponding
chain socket of the camera. The spring-loaded dust cover will recede into
the camera. Use the D-ring at the end of the chain in the manner of a
screwdriver, inserting it into the slot of the plug disc, turn the plug one-
quarter turn to the right. (See illustration). To detach the chain, reverse these
steps; insert D-ring in the slot, turn one quarter to the left--the plug will
jump out of the socket.4www.butkus.org

It pays to take care of your MI#OX!

The optical glass window of the lens should always be spotless; finger
marks and dirt impair the sharpness and brilliance of your pictures. From
time to time- wipe the window gently with a soft linen cloth wrapped
around a small wooden stick or tooth pick.

Keep the film compartments free from dust which may scratch the film;
before inserting a fresh film cassette, blow into the compartment to dislodge
and remove small dust particles.

Beware of sand and salt water! Only a few drops of salt water suffice to corrode the delicate mechanism of the
camera. Should it ever drop into the water, you may perhaps save the camera if you open it and rinse it immediately
after the salt water has entered, under running warm fresh water; then dry it at once near a heater an open fire. Rush
your MINOX to our Repair Department with the notation: SALT WATER DAMAGE. If sand gets into the camera,
try to blow it out before you operate the 'push-pull' rapid wind, if there is the least "grating", STOP, leave the camera
as it is and send it to for cleaning with the notation: CAUTION, SAND IN CAMERA!

Your MINOX was carefully tested and checked before leaving the factory, and provided with long life lubricants. Do
not attempt to disassemble it, and, above all, do not lubricate any part of it. The facilities of our Service Department
are at your disposal if the camera should ever require adjustment or repairs.4www .butkus.org

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TIPS FOR BEST RESULTS

The "best" film
MINOX films are available in several different types for black-and-white photography, and for color pictures. The
black-and-white films vary in sensitivity (speed) and grain characteristics. The sensitivity is expressed in American
Standard Association exposure index numbers: ASA 25, ASA 80, ASA 100 and ASA 200, etc. These numbers are
stated on the film package and should be used in setting the exposure meter. (See page 20). ASA 200 film is twice as
sensitive to light as ASA 100, ASA 100 twice as sensitive as ASA 50o, and so on. Thus, under any given conditions.
ASA 80 film, for instance, would require only half the shutter speed needed for ASA 28.

The lower the film sensitivity, the finer the detail it is capable of reproducing in the final print. Therefore, the fast
films--ASA 100 and ASA 200--should be used only when there is not enough illumination for slower films, or when
flash exposures are not feasible (stage photography, candid shots, etc.)

For 90°/o of your pictures, you will find ASA 25 the ideal choice; it has ultra-fine grain and thus gives you clear,
sharp, crisp pictures; it has ample speed for all outdoor pictures and for flash shots. For copying of books, documents,
etc. a special fine-grain film ASA 5 is available. (See page 38).

ASA 200 film and Color film is supplied in 36-exposure cassettes; all other black-and white films are in 50-exposure
cassettes. For information about color film, see page 36.

Correct exposure measurement

You will always get correct exposures with your MINOX B Automatic camera, if you observe a few basic rules.
The front window (cell) of the meter must be completely unobstructed to give a correct reading. Don't let a finger
cover the window--check the correct camera hold on page 4 and s.
Give the meter 2 to 3 seconds to measure the light while you hold down the button. Letting the button go too quickly
may cause the needle to lock before it has reached full reading.

Always measure the important part of a scene. In a landscape, for instance, the sky which is usually much
brighter than the principal parts of the scene, should not be included in the viewfinder while you are holding down the
meter button. Point the viewfinder downward until most of the sky is no longer visible. Thus, you will get a correct
reading for the fields, trees, houses, etc. which are important for the picture. Of course, when you take the picture, you
may include the sky.

Similarly, when you take snapshots of people in the snow or in front of a light-colored wall, remember that the people
are important, not the background. To get correct exposure, approach with your camera until you see in the viewfinder
only the person or group which you want to snap. Only then should you press down the meter button to get your
reading. After you have thus determined correct exposure, you may step back to include the background in the actual
picture.

If it is inconvenient to make such a close-up measurement, you can use the "substitution" method of measuring the
brightness of your hand or some object that is similar to, and receives the same light, as the actual subject of your
picture.

Close-up measurement is also used in back-lighted (against-the-light) shots. Measure only the important subjects
which are actually in the shade. Where this is impractical -- mountain scenery, for instance -- use this rule of thumb:
Take the reading by pointing the camera at the full scene; then move the shutter speed scale one step to the right for
taking the picture. (Example: The reading is 1/200. Move the shutter scale to 1/100 second.) The rules for back-

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lighted subjects also apply to color pictures. In fact, very judicious measuring is essential for all color pictures.
Whenever possible, use the close-up measuring method for pictures of people. Where this is not possible, the
following modification will be helpful:

Principal subject in the shade . . . use one-half step longer exposure

People in snow pictures . . . . . use full step longer exposure

Scenes with much green foliage
(except in open landscapes) . ., use one-half step longer exposure

Dull, overcast day . . . . . . . use l/2 to full step longer exposure

Always remember:
Don't cover the exposure meter cell window. Give the meter needle 2 to 3 seconds for correct reading. Measure the
important part of the picture. Use close-up measurement whenever possible. Modify exposure times under certain
conditions.

S-t-e-a-d-y!
Even the best photo-finisher can't give you a sharp print from a blurred film! Therefore, get used to a comfortable and
steady hold of your MINOX during exposure. Some people can hold the camera perfectly still for 1/5 second; others
have trouble even with 1/50 second. Experience will tell you whether you can get steady pictures at the slower shutter
speeds. Generally, you will find it advisable to use a tripod or other firm support for l/20 second and slower. For all
snapshots, use the hold suggested on pages 4 and 5, and make sure that you "squeeze" the shutter to avoid jarring the
camera.

How about longer exposures?
In a pinch, try holding your MINOX steady by leaning your elbows on a table or other firm surface, or against a wall;
better still, place the camera on a support, ledge, etc. It is best, however, to attach the MINOX with the MINOX
camera clamp to a tripod. You will find the MINOX pocket tripod a particularly fine and versatile accessory. Little
larger than a pencil, it opens up into a rock-steady tripod complete with a swivel top; you can use it on a table, chair,
window sill, or lean it against a wall. You can also brace it against your shoulders. As an extra precaution against
jarring the camera, always use a cable release for tripod exposures. The MINOX tripod comes with its own cable
release!4www.butkus.org

"Frame" your subject
Advance planning of composition saves extra work in enlarging, and gives you precisely the picture you want every
time. Since the MINOX viewfinder shows you the exact picture area, you can easily compose each picture before you
actually take it, you can omit unimportant or disturbing details right at the start, and fill the picture area to best
advantage.

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Close-ups of small things

There is a special fascination in a big close-up. A frame-filling picture of a
single blossom showing the delicate details of each petal can be more
rewarding than a whole acre of flowers. Therefore: Get CLOSE to the
subject! Your MINOX offers you the great advantage that you can get as
close as 8 inches without any supplementary equipment or extra lenses. Make
the most of this excellent feature. Always use the measuring beads of the
chain to determine the correct distance, and set the distance scale of the
camera accordingly; this is important because, at close range, the zone of
sharpness is very limited.

For instance, when the distance scale is set at 1 ft. the sharpness extends only
from 11 inches to 13 inches. Now you know why accurate distance setting is
a must for extreme close-ups. Remember also that, at distances between 8
and 10 inches, the picture area lies a frame-width within the luminous frame
of the viewfinder.

Hot Weather Precaution

Films are sensitive to high temperatures.

Do not store MINOX films or your loaded MINOX in the glove compartment
or window-shelf of your car, where the film may be affected by excessive
heat.

How to stop moving subjects
Sports and other fast action call for high shutter speeds -- otherwise your pictures may be blurred. But even under
unfavorable light conditions requiring slower shutter speeds, you can stop motion by using some professional tricks.
For example, it is easier to stop motion of a subject moving straight toward the camera, or at a slight angle, than it is
to "freeze" a subject moving at right angles to the camera. Or, watch for the moment of "suspense" such as is reaches
by a swing at its highest point just before it moves down again, or by a tennis player during the serve when the ball is

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at the peak of the toss, and the racquet is about to be swung. Even 1/20 second will "stop" such shots. Here is another
well-known professional trick that will help you get fine results with very fast motion--automobile races, speed boats,
skiing, etc.: Keep the car, boat, or skier centered in the MINOX viewfinder and follow the motion with the camera,
releasing the. shutter at any instant during this panoraming. The background will be blurred, adding to the impression
of speed, but the subject stays sharp even at 1/50 second.

Flash Pictures
The MINOX has built-in flash synchronization, which actuates the flash when the shutter button is pressed. Any flash
unit may be used with the MINOX. There are two basically different types of flash units: Electronic flash units and
units using expendable flash bulbs. Electronic units are equipped with a flash tube. The initial cost of such units is
higher but, generally speaking, the operating expense in negligible. Because of the extremely high speed of electronic
flash, even fastest motion can be "frozen". The MINOX B/C Flashgun is particularly convenient. This uses AG1
Bulbs. Small flash units may be attached to the chain socket of the MINOX B by means of the flash adapter. For use
with large flash units the MINOX B may be attached to a flash bracket by means of the MINOX camera clamp (see
page 44).

Electronic Flash can be used with any shutter speed up to 1/500 second. The shorter the shutter speed, the greater
the influence of the flash upon the illumination and character of the picture. For electronic flash units of medium
brightness, use films of 13 or 14 DIN. All pictures to about 18 - 25 feet will be well exposed. The differences in the
negative quality are so slight that they do not affect the enlarging ability. For short distances (less than aft) the effect
of the flash can be cut in half by using the green filter (neutral density grey filter should not be used). Since electronic
flash units usually emit very harsh light, the following suggestions will be helpful in reducing the extreme brilliance:

1. Detach the flash unit from the camera and use it at a greater distance and to the side of the camera. An extension
cord for this purpose is available at your MINOX dealer. Be careful however that the shadow of the camera does not
show in the picture. 2. Hold white paper or thin white fabric (handkerchief, for instance) in front of flash reflectors;
this not only reduces the intensity of the light, but makes it considerably softer.

Flash bulbs can be used at shutter speeds up to 1/20 second. The usual capless bulbs may be used as readily as the
larger types. Flash unite with built-in condensers (B/C) such as the MINOX Flashgun are preferable because they
assure perfect flash timing even after many months use of the same battery.
To reduce the flash intensity with flash bulbs at closer distances, you can use the same methods recommended for
electronic flash above.

It's a colorful world
The 15 mm f/3.5 Complan lens of your MINOX is fully color corrected, and has an anti-reflection coating -- in other
words it is ideally suited for color photography.4www.butkus.org

If you have never taken color pictures before, keep in mind the following points to help you get fine results:

Color film yields the best results in bright or hazy sunlight; on overcast days, results are usually disappointing.

The best time for color pictures is mid-morning and mid-afternoon. Around noon, the light is usually bluish, resulting
in very 'cold' colors or an over-all bluish tinge. During the hours just after sunrise, or before sunset, the light is more
reddish, resulting in very 'warm' colors.

Watch for the possibility of color reflections (which may not be noticeable to the eye): A white dress on a green lawn
is never pure white, but faintly green! Color film requires careful exposure measurement; even slight deviation from
the correct exposure may result in false color reproduction. (Read the suggestions about exposure on page 29).

Under-exposure results in dark colors, over-exposure produces pale pictures with washed-out colors.

As a general rule, color pictures are best taken with the sun slightly to one side behind the photographers back.

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Avoid deep shadows on faces, and strong contrasts between light and dark portions of a scene.

If you are seriously interested in all phases of color photography, you will find it worthwhile to read one of the many
comprehensive books covering this field.

For more fun with your MI#OX - - read "Small MINOX--Big Pictures" the entertainingly written complete
guide to MINOX photography which explains and illustrates every use of your MINOX and its accessories.
Beautifully printed on coated paper, and bound in linen, this pocket-size book tells the full MINOX story. You will
enjoy reading it, and it will help you improve your own MINOX technique. "Small MINOX--Big Pictures" is for sale
at your MINOX dealer's.

Copying of documents, drawings, books, etc. is no problem for your
MINOX. By using a tripod, MINOX Copying Stand (see page 46), MINOX
Copying Arm, or other means of support, you can conveniently copy such
material, getting as close as 8 inches for largest possible reproduction.

Use the special MINOX ASA 5 Micro Copy (Doku-Ortho) film, except when
copying illustrations or photographs containing half-tones for which the
regular ASA 25 film should be used. (See back flap of this manual for areas
covered at various distances).

Left MI%OX copy of an engraving by Marltin Schongauer. Micro Copy -
ASA 5 film.

Changing the film type
Some day you may want to take color pictures just when your MINOX is
loaded with black-and-white film -- or vice versa.
When you want to change cassettes, pull-push the camera once to transport
the last-exposed film frame into the take-up end of the cassette. Change the
ASA setting of the meter for the next film (s. p. 20) before you open the
back of the camera. Remove the cassette from the camera (seepage 23); note
the number showing on the exposure counter, and write this number on the
cassette for future reference.
Insert the new cassette after you have set the exposure counter to the red dot,
(see page 19), and proceed in the usual manner.
When you re-load the "started" cassette: Change the ASA setting of the
meter; then set the exposure counter three numbers back from the number
which you noted when you originally removed the cassette. Example, if you
removed the cassette at "28", set counter at "25". Now insert cassette in the
usual manner. Pull-push the camera three times. This takes up any slack in
the cassette and gets your MINOX ready for the next picture.

Right: Snapshot with electronic flash by Dr. G. Busch ASA 25 film.

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WHAT HAPPE#ED?
You'll find it easy to get the "feel" of your MINOX within a short time, and to get a succession of fine pictures. If you
should have a failure at one time or another, check it against these possible errors and learn to avoid repetition:

. . . IF the principal subject is not sharp:

The distance scale was not set correctly. Always set the distance carefully, especially for close-ups. (Use the
measuring chain for extreme close-ups). OR

The motion of the principal subject (car, boat, skier) was too fast for the shutter speed used.

. . . IF there are blurted or double outlines:

The camera moved during exposure; (hold camera steady or use tripod for longer exposures; sometimes a table, chair
or a wall will support the camera adequately.

. . . IF your pictures have a blurred shadow at the right, or at the bottom:

Your finger got in front of the lens! Watch your camera holds check it against the illustrations on pages 4 and 5.

. . . IF your pictures look cruddy and out of focus:

There's probably a fingerprint or smudge on the lens window of your MINOX Clean the window carefully (see page
26).4www.butkus.org

. . . IF your film shows irregular spacing or overlapping:

Either you forgot to set exposure counter at the red dot (page 19) when you started the film, or you did not pull and
push the camera ALL THE WAY between exposures (page 3).

. . . IF some of your negatives are very thin or almost black:

(a) Exposure meter was set to wrong ASA number (page20);

(b) Exposure meter window was partly obscured during measurement (page 4);

(c) Exposure meter button was not held down for several seconds (page10).

. . . . . . If some prints show more "grain" than others from the same film:

Badly over-exposed pictures have coarser grain. Over-exposure is as undesirable as under-exposure. Make sure you
use the exposure meter properly.

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. . . IF film has thin horizontal scratches (telephone wires):

Dust is the enemy of your MINOX films. Never carry a film cassette in your pocket without a wrapper. Before
loading the camera, blow out any dust particles which may have lodged in the film compartments (page 27).

. . . IF the film cassette won't drop easily into the camera when loading:

The film gate must be open when the film is dropped into the camera. Be sure to push the camera (with open back
cover) together about 1/8" to open the film gate (see page 21).

. . . IF the film cassette cannot be pulled out of the camera:

It's the film gate again! See previous paragraph.4www.butkus.org

. . . IF the film cassette does not lie flush in the camera, so that the back cover
cannot be easily closed:

This is not your fault. It may happen on rare occasions when the film take-up core
rests on the teeth of the transport wheel in the film compartment of the camera.
Simply lift out the cassette, pull camera open all the way, and close again just
enough to open the film gate. Re-insert the cassette. Close cover.

. . . IF the film shows dark areas at intervals along the edges:

Either the cassette was handled in very bright light before or after loading; or the
film was advanced beyond the red dot before un-loading which may result in light
entering through the film slit of the cassette.

A pleasant MI%OX snapshot by Werner Schmolcke: ASA 25 film, l/200 Sac.
MINOX Camera Clamp

The Camera Clamp is used to attach the MINOX to a tripod, or to the bracket of a
flash unit. It has a socket for a cable release which should be used for all tripod shots.

MINOX Pocket Tripod

Here is your best insurance for perfect pictures with the slower shutter speeds!
Extremely compact, yet sturdy and versatile, the MINOX tripod even has an
adjustable swivel head, The legs slide all into one so that the whole unit can be
carried like a pencil, and a cable release is included, hidden and protected inside the
tripod legs.

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MINOX Slide Projector

There is no greater thrill than seeing your fine MINOX color slides projected on a
screen. All the subtleties of color are brought out in projection.

The MINOX Slide Projector is designed especially for MINOX slides. It has an
efficient light system with a 100 Watt projection bulb, silvered concave glass
reflector, and aspherical condenser lens. Triple wan construction of the all-metal
housing assures free air circulation for constant ventilation of the lighting system. A
heat absorbing filter gives added protection to the transparencies during projection.
The projection lamp can tee adjusted for perfect illumination over the entire picture
area.4www.butkus.org

Built-in front elevating micrometer screw permits height adjustment to centre the
projected image on the screen.

MINOX transparencies for projection in the MINOX Slide Projector should be mounted In MINOX 30 x 30 mm
transparency mounts. The Projector is supplied complete with projection bulb, slide changer, and plastic carrying
case.
It is fitted with either the bright f/1.6 as mm "MINOLUX" lens or the f/2.7 MINOSTAR.

Other useful accessories for the MI#OX B

The MINOX Binocular Attachment permits taking tale-photographs through most better
binoculars.

With the MINOX Finder Mirror true-to-life, you can take candid snapshots "around the corner"!
You stand at a right angle to the subject.

The MINOX Adjustable Copy Stand makes easy work of copying letters, documents, books, etc.
It folds for easy pocket carrying.

You can examine your negatives with the MINOX Negative Viewer without removing them
from the transparent MINOX Negative Wallet.

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