Promaster MC Automatic Lenses User manual

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Your MC lens is fully automatic and incorporate not only the
optimum in computer optical design but also the very latest in
optical multi-coating techniques. The process of multi-coating
assures virtually flare free photographs even under the most
adverse lighting conditions, resulting in crisp, full color fidelity,
good contrast pictu res.
MOUNTING THE LENS
Your MC automatic lens mount is sirnilar in design to that of
your standard automatic lens (50mm, 55mm, etc.) with which
your camera is equipped, and are mounted and dismounted in
the same manner as the 'standard' lens.
AUTO DIAPHRAGM-MANUAL CONTROL
Some lens models have an A-M ring next to the diaphragm ring.
This functions as a preview (stop down) mechanism on the lens
itself. For normal automatic operation, the ring shou.ld be set to
"^". Only to preview the scene at the shooting aperture should
it be moved to the "M" position. Many cameras have the preview
function built-in and do not require use of the A-M ring feature.
SETTING THE F STOP
Rotate the diaphragm ring to the proper f stop as indicated by
the camera's behind-the-lens meter or an independent meter. The
diaphragm can be set to full stops or at any position in-between.
METER COUPLING
The meter coupling is automatic as the lens is inserted into the
camera body.
EE MARK
For the Canon EF and Konica Autoreflex series, rotate the
diaphragm ring all the way and align the E E mark with the
aperture index. Then, your lens will couple to the shutter
priority EE system of these cameras. Some lenses manually stop
down to f22 but, while coupling to the EE system, will go to  f 16
on ly.
INFRA-RED FOCUS
For infrared photography, correction of the distance scale  is
necessary because the infra-red rays are shorter than the light
rays of the visual spectrum. Focus first in the ordinary manner,
and then - before exposure -  reset the distance indicated on thefocusing ring to the appropriate R-index (red lines). For proper
exposure and filtration with infra-red materials, follow the film
manufactu  rer's recommendations.
DEPTH OF FIELD
Depth of field is indicated for any distance and f-setting on the
depth of  field scale which is the double scale of f-numbers

engraved on both sides of the center reference line. The distance
settings opposite the f-number being used (shown on the left and
right hand parts of the depth of field scale) indicate the range of
sharpness (depth of field) at that distance and f stop.
FOCUSING THE LENS
Look through the viewfinder of your camera and rotate the
focusing ring to get a sharp and clear image in the viewfinder.
Due to the wider depth of field, it is more difficult to see the
image 'snap' into focus with wideangle lenses than it is with
telephoto lenses. This depth of field makes wideangle lenses
desirable for quick, prefocused shooting. For example, at f16,
the depth of field on your 28mm lens extends from less than 3
feet to infinity.
The distance scale indicates the distance between the focused
subject and the film plane. The scale is necessary for checking
the depth of field, exposure with flash, and infra-red photo-
graphs.
ZOOMING THE ZOOM tENS
When using a zoom lens, you can get any desired focal point in
the entire zoom range with just 'a quarter' of a rotation of the
zoom ring. For most critical focus, your lens should first be set
to the longest focal point of the zoom range, focused for the
sharpest image in the viewfinder, and then zoomed back for the
desired composition. The larger image and shallower depth of
field at the longest focal setting in the zoom range will help you
to get more critical focus. Naturally, your lens may be focused at
any point within the zoom range, but focusing at the shortest
focal setting and zooming up should be avoided unless focus is
re-checked before shooting.
HOW TO USE THE MACRO-FOCUSING SYSTEM
When using a zoom lens with macro-focusing capability, turn the
macro-focusing  ring to the right, disengaging the 'click-stop' at
NORMAL position (marked with 'red dot'). The moment the
macro ring is moved off the NORMAL ('red dot') setting, your
lens works only for close-up photography in a reduction ratio
from 1 :10 to 1 :4 as scaled on the ring.
The reduction ratio will remain unchanged at any focal setting of
the zoom range.
First set the focusing ring at the minimum focusing distance.
Then locate the zoom ring at the shortest focal setting. Frame
the desired size of the close-up photograph by turning the macro
focus ring. While the macro focusing system is engaged, focusing
is done by means of the zoom ring. Best results may be obtained
at the shortest focal setting of the zoom range with small
aperture used, at which the depth-of-field gets deepest for an
edge-to-edge sharp close-up photograph. Also, use of a sturdy
tripod is recommended to minimize the motion of camera.
When the macro ring is returned to the NORMAL position
(make sure to turn the ring to the left until  it stops at'red dot'),
the macro focusing system is automatically disengaged, and the
lens will operate in its normal zoom and focusing ranges again.

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USING THE VIEW.FINDER WITH TELEPHOTO
LENSES
The effectiveness of different types of focusing screens varies
with the focal length and speed of the lens. The rangefinder or
microgrid prisms built into the groundglass do not work as well
with longer focal length lenses as they do with the normal
camera lens and most wideangle lenses and may black out
partially or fully. When such a condition exists, focusing is best
done on the groundglass portion of the viewing screen. On some
SLR cameras, long telephoto lenses appear to produce a cut-off
in the upper corners or along the entire upper edge of the
viewfinder. Actually, such viewing cut-off is caused by the size
of the camera's mirror which is adequate for the shorter focal
length lenses only. The exposed slide or negative will be
unaffected by this viewing deticiency
PROPER CARE OF YOUR MC LENS
Your MC lens should always be capped to protect  it when not in
use. Like other precision optics, it should never be simply wiped
with tissue since such tissue may abrade the surface with any
dust which might be on it or on the lens.
Any accummulated dust should occasionally be blown off with a
syringe or one of the available pressurized air products. To
remove a finger-print or smear, shred the edge of a lens tissue
and roll it to make a swab; dampen it with a lens cleaner
specially made for photograqhic optics and gently wipe the
surface without exercising any pressure. lf repeating the pro-
cedure is necessary, use a new swab.
Close examination of a multi-coated lens may reveal some
'beauty defects.'These  in no way affect the performance of your
MC lens.





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