Ricoh 500 MXL User manual

www.butkus.us


           (9) Rapid rewind crank

          (10) Accessory Shoe

          (11) Cordless flash contact (hot
          shoe)

          (12) Shutter release button

          (13) Film counter

          (14) Shutter speed setting ring

          (15) Light value figures

          (16) Diaphragm setting ring
        window

(17) Light value adjusting ring

(18) Distance scale

(19) Depth-of-field scale

(20) Rewinding spindle slot

(21) View-and-rangefinder eyepiece

(22) Film rail

(23) Rewinding release

(24) Sprocket

(25) Take-up spool

(26) Take-up spool slot

www.butkus.us




Turn back cover locking discs so that the red dots come in line
with the black C. (See Figure 5.)

( 3 ) Place your new film cartridge in the chamber below the
rewinding spindle. (See Figure 6.)

( 4 ) Engage the end of your unexposed film firmly in the inner
take-up spool slot. (See Figure 7.)



                                              ( 5 ) Make sure the perforations on the film are properly
                                 engaged on the teeth of the sprocket, and that the film is
                                    properly centered. Taking care that the film cartridge does not
                              jump or fall out of the chamber turn the flange in the direction
                                      indicated by the white arrow. If it refuses to turn any more, it
                              means the shutter is wound; so do not force it on any account.
                                       Just release the shutter and it will go on turning. (See Figure 8
                                              )

                                              ( 6 ) Make sure that the film end is properly engaged in the
                                    take-up spool slot, and then wipe off any particles of dust or
                                       finger marks on the film pressure plate with a soft brush or
                                     piece of gauze. When you have done this, put on the cover
                                     gently and firmly, taking good care that the film pressure
                                        plate does not get caught on the edge of the film, and turn the
                                 back cover locking discs, in the direction indicated by black
                                    arrow, so that the red dots come in line with C.

                                              ( 7 ) At the bottom of the camera, and on one of the back
                                   cover locking discs, you will find your film type indicator
                                   with ASA numbers. These ASA numbers stand for degrees of
                                      sensitiveness of films to light, so that when the ASA figure is
                                      high, less exposure or faster shutter speeds are required, while
                                        in case of a film with a low sensitivity the ASA figure is also
                                   low, so that greater exposure or slower shutter speeds become
                                     necessary.

This ASA exposure index is indicated on the packet in which your film is sold and probably in the
Directions printed and enclosed in the packet. Bring this figure in line with the red dot by turning the
dial with the tip of your nail on the tiny metal catch. This is done so that you might remember what
the film speed is, a matter of utmost importance when taking pictures. If your film is a color film use
the portion marked COLOR on a white base. If the film is a, daylight type, use the portion marked
color on- a black base if me film is manufactured for use with artificial light. When the camera is
empty, bring the catch (where there is no number) in line with the red dot. (See Figure 9.)

( 8 ) Bring out the triggermatic-action lever. (See Figure 10.)

( 9 ) You will note that the film counter shows "S" (Start). (See : Figure 11.) Release the shutter, or
at least press the button I to ensure that it is released, and turn the triggermatic-action I lover with
your left index or middle finger as far as it will go I to the left. This advances the film by one frame
and winds the shutter at the same time. If the lever will not advance, never force it; because it
means the shutter has not been released. Release the shutter again and advance the film once more,
and you will find that the arrow in the film counter is opposite a point closer to " I " than to " S "
When the film is advanced for the 3rd time, the arrow points at " 1 ". Then set the LIGHT VALUE
required and take your first picture. Anything taken on a frame before the arrow points at "1" is
likely to be on an exposed part of the film, and therefore to be useless.




EXPOSURE AND LIGHT VALUE

www.butkus.us


In taking a picture a certain amount of light must pass through the lens and reach the film. This is
what is called an exposure. If the amount of exposure is too great or too little, the picture will be no
good. In the conventional type of camera one has to set the shutter speed and the required f stop
separately. The LIGHT VALUE device eliminates all this trouble, since any change in the shutter
speed due to any change in the f stop or any change in the f stop due to any change in the shutter
speed is done AUTOMATICALLY. It must of course be understood that the amount of light is
about the same.

This is the first Japanese camera which makes AUTOMATIC the giving and ensuring of the correct
exposure by simply setting the LIGHT VALUE indicator. This is a mechanical brain that computes
the correct exposure for you, provided you know what the LIGHT VALUE is.

                              Light                              Among
           Snow,                          Subjects in    Dark subjects,
                                 subject,                                             trees or
ASA/Index  mountain and                   shade, folks in  folks in shade,
                               Distant                                            in light
             sea scenery                  open           building
                              scenes                                 room

50         14             13          12           11             10

100        15             14          13           12             11

200        16             15          14           13             12


a. For October to March subtract I from figures indicated.
b, For mornings and evenings subtract 2 from figures indicated whatever the time of year.
c. Your light exposure meter gives readings that tally with the figures given here.
d. For color film you are strongly advised to use an electric exposure meter.
e. Fit your electric exposure meter into the accessory shoe of the camera.

1. Set your light value by referring to the light-value table' or
                               by taking a reading from an electric exposure meter.

                                         2. Turn the light value adjusting ring and bring it into the
                                     required position. (See Figure 13, which shows that the light
                                    value is " 11 "). Disregard all shutter speeds and the relative
                                  openings in setting the light value. Just shoot.

                                         3. If either shutter speed or opening (which affects depth of
                                          field of focus shown on a chart on another page) is not what
                               you want, turn the shutter speed setting ring until your desired
                                  speed or opening is indicated. (Set Figure 14.)

                          When you want to have everything in sharp focus, turn the
                                        shutter speed setting ring to the left. If on the other hand you
                                 wish to have things on the far and near side of your subject
                                    out of focus, turn the ring to the right.





The extent to Which things are in sharp focus may be found by reading the depth of field scale.
(See Figure 15 and 16.)

The f stops must be interpreted on the scale in such readings of depths of held as being a rough guide.

When the required shutter speed is a fast one, turn the shutter speed setting ring to the right until the required
speed is brought in line with the red mark arrow V.

When the required shutter speed is a slow one, turn the ring to the left until the required speed is brought in line
with the same red arrow V

Make sure that the shutter speeds are brought exactly in line with the click stop, since no intermediate speeds
are obtainable.

So long as there is no change in the light value, the required exposure is constantly arid automatically ensured,
whatever the shutter speed or f stop you set. However, at f/2.8 the f stop window stops moving any farther, so
that if you move the shutter speed setting ring beyond this point, the light value figure will get out of line, and
the result will be underexposure.

Similarly, when a slower shutter speed is required, moving the shutter speed ring beyond the f/22 point will
result in the light value figure getting out of line, and this will result in overexposure.

www.butkus.us


                                 Medial points just between the light values may be used,
                                  such as 3.5, 4.5 16.5.

                              The only case in which the light value cannot be used is
                             when the shutter speed is 1/500.

                          When the shutter speed is set to " B " the shutter will remain
                                open so long as the shutter release button is pressed. The
                                        figures stand for fractions of a second, so that I means I
                                    second, 2 means 1/2 second, 5 means 1/5 second, and 500
                               means 1/500 second. The aperture or opening is bigger in
                                     proportion to the smallness of the f stop number and is
                                     smaller in proportion to the largeness of the f stop number;
                                 and the opening itself is a 5-sided hole as illustrated in Figure
                                      17.


MAKING THE BEST USE OF DEPTH OF FIELD

As illustrated in the following chart (Figure 18), the depth of field of focus increases in proportion to the
smallness of the opening or f stop, and decreases in proportion to its largeness. It is this range that is commonly
referred to as the depth of field.

Consequently, apart from the fact that you will have to make sure your subject is in sharp focus, give full
consideration to this important factor. For instance, in taking a picture of a person, the blurring of the
background by using a wide opening will make the person stand out. On the other hand, when taking a group
picture where people are standing in rows a small opening becomes necessary to ensure that the focus is sharp
on every subject.

Thus, if you set the opening at f/8 and the distance scale at the red dot, everything will be in sharp focus
from 10 feet to infinity. (See Figure 18.) For taking sequence shots referred to in a subsequent section this
will prove of immense advantage.



FOCUSING THE CAMERA





1. As illustrated in Figure 19, place your right index finger lightly on the shutter release button and with both
hands turn the Duo-lever focusing control.

2. Usually the image as seen through the view-and-rangefinder will appear " double " in the center tinted square,
which means that the subject is not in focus. When this is the case, move the lever so that the two images
merge, or, in other avoids, become superimposed. The subject is now in sharp focus.


TAKING YOUR PICTURE

To muddle means the possibility of missing a shot; so let us do things systematically so as not to miss our
chance.

1. Get your light value set.

2. Decide on your depth of field and shatter speed.

3. Wind your film, which winds the shutter, too.

4. Focus your subject.

5. Release the button and take your picture.

www.butkus.us


    Steady your camera when you shoot by resting the camera
     against a part of your face and hold your breath for a moment
     as you shoot. (See Figures 23 and 24.)

    The camera is built in such a way as to prevent the taking of
    double exposures and the skipping of a frame. In other
    words, there is no danger of DOUBLE EXPOSURES or
   BLANKS.

   Do not advance the film until the shutter has been fully
     released. This is particularly important when using the bulb
     or slow shutter speeds.

     After you have advanced your film, which winds your shutter
     automatically. it is highly advisable not to change shutter
     speeds between l/l0 and 1/25 and between 1/250 and l/500.
   Do not keep pulling the triggermatic-action lever when the
    camera is unloaded as it may put the camera out of order.

    The only absolute guarantee against taking shots that are
     spoilt owing to any jolting of the camera is the use of the
     tripod. For any speed slower than 1/25 we recommend the
     use of RICOH " CINE " TRIPOD. When you use a self-timer
     a tripod is a necessity; and you will find your RICOH " CINE
     " TRIPOD ideal, as you can direct your camera toward any
     direction while it rests fitted on to it. It always pays to make
    sure that your important group and other pictures are
    not spoiled.



When using a self-timer or a shutter release, screw it on to the
shutter release button groove. The RICOH SELF TIMER, which
may be procured from your dealer, gives a wide margin of 7 to 15
seconds before the shutter is released. The length of time depends
on the extent to which it is wound; so that you could experiment
with it when the camera is unloaded and remember just how far
you should wind it.


The RICOH SELF-TIMER is your answer for the family group
picture and other pictures in which you wish to have everyone in,
including yourself. (See Figure 25.)

TAKING SEQUENCE SHOTS WITH THE TRIGGERMATIC-ACTION LEVER

The Triggermatic-action lever is an outstanding feature of this miniature camera, adding further to the
maneuverability of an already maneuverable camera. ( Only a full pull on the triggermatic-action lever, which
takes but a fraction of a second, and the film is advanced by a frame and the shutter set.

This LEVER-PULLING AND) SHUTTER-RELEASING ACTION is so rapid and smooth as to be a feature
unequalled bi other cameras. If you bring the red dot on the distance scale to the center and set the lens opening
f/8, its versatility is greatly increased, ENABLING THE TAKING OF PICTURES AT A RATE OF10 IN 10
SECONDS.

WHEN YOU HAVE FINISHED TAKING PICTURES ON ALL YOUR FRAMES
When you have come to the end of your film, it will refuse to advance any farther. If you pull your lever against
this resistance, the perforations will tear and you may even spoil the last part of your film. In order to prevent
such a mishap it is wise to go a little easy on your lever after your 20th exposure or 36th exposure, depending
on the number of exposures your film is expected to take. With most films 1 to 3 extra pictures can be taken
than indicated on the film package.





In rewinding the film--to not open the back of the camera until this is completed--flip up the rewinding
crank fully, shift the rewinding release button on the back-side of the top toward the letter "R" as indicated, and
rewind in the direction of the arrow on the crank. Do not let go the rewinding release button referred to,
while you rewind the films already exposed, because if you do, the film will tear owing to the locking of the
sprocket. (See Figure 27.)

www.butkus.us

When the film has been fully wound back into the film cartridge, the crank will become extremely light. Open
the back of the camera and take out the cartridge carefully. The taking off of the back cover will cause the film
counter to return n automatically to S (Start). On noaccount open the back of the camera until you feel
assured the film has been fully rewound. Neither should it be opened in direct sunlight, as strong light call
pierce into the cartridge through the narrow slot.


YOUR RICOH FLASH GUN
The flash gun is your answer to taking pictures at night, especially of subjects that are in motion, to taking a
portrait against the light, and to softening the too-sharp contrast in strong sunlight.

We have flash bulbs of various kinds, such as F. M, or Strobe. On an ordinary camera there is no course but to
choose the kind of bulb for which the synchro mechanism is made. The Ricoh De Luxe L, however, is provided
with M, F. and X settings, making it possible to use all brands of flash bulbs. Set the synchro lever to M, F,
or Strobe, according to the kind of flash bulb as indicated on the wrapper or box, and you will be ensured of
your flash light and shutter opening fully synchronizing from 1 to 1/500, according to the conditions indicated
in the following table, which illustrates the relation between the kind of bulb and synchro setting.





There are many kinds of flash gun; but RICOH 500 is provided with a CORDLESS FLASH CONTACT on the
ACCESSORY SHOE, so that if you slip on your RICOH FLASH GUN BC-605, it will save you the trouble of
attaching a flash cord on to the flash terminal. No dangling cord, and no failure in charging the bulb
through faulty connection is your gift that comes to you in your RICOH FLASH GU N BC--605.

In taking pictures with flash, it is vital that the exposure is correct. Otherwise, underexposure or overexposure
will result, the danger being even greater in most cases than in day light conditions whet e the light is even. Any
variation in the distance from the source of flash light to the subject results in a proportionate and great
difference in the amount of light. Thus, it is extremely important to set the correct F stop according to the
distance from the subjects

To put it simply, granting that different types of bulb
differ in their luminosity, the closer the subject the
smaller must the opening be and vice versa.

With any packet of flash bulbs you bay you will find a
table of what are technically referred to as GUIDE
NUMBERS. If you divide the number which fits your
case by the distance in-feet, the figure you get shows the
f stop opening which is required for your shot. For
example, if your film has ASA 100 Exposure Index, you
look for your GUIDE NUMBER that is given for this
Index. If you wish to find out the distance-in-feet for a
given f stop, divide the GUIDE NUMBER by the number
that stands for the f stop.



ACCESSORIES

A number of accessories for this camera have already been mentioned in the foregoing pages, besides which we
are happy try offer you the f allowing, manufactured specially by our Am.

RICOH LENS HOOD (43 mm)





Our lens holed dues the important job of cutting off
unnecessary light or glare that may damage a picture. It is
for this reason that the inner side of the hood is coated
with black. Our hood is handsomely made and fits snug
into an equally handsome leather case.

www.butkus.us

RICOH FILTER (34 mm)


                                        You, Ricoh filters ensure the taking Of pictures
                                            with the right tone arid texture, and are a
                              NECESSARY PART of your picture-taking
                                            equipment. The most greatly used of the various
                                                           filters are the UV arid Y1 and Y2 filters. The
                                           yellow filters help to bring out red and yellow tints
                                         and to tone down the blues, so that clouds are made
                                                  to stand out against a filter-darkened sky. The
                                            degree to which a sky may be darkened will depend
                                       on the darkness of the filter and amount of
                                             exposure. When no filter is used, the sky is more
                                             than likely to come out flat.




THE CARE OF THE CAMERA
The camera is a precision-built instrument that requires the greatest care and attention.

1. The lens is the life of the camera, so that it requires the most delicate handling. Consequently, do not touch it
unless it is dusty or smudged. In removing dust or grit An not wipe, but first use a soft lens brush and, if
necessary, wipe gently with a silicone cloth. When a camera is brought into a warm place from a cold place
suddenly, it will get clouded. So wait until the camera and lens temperature reaches the room temperature, and
the lens will clear up.

2. When you have taken pictures by the seaside or on wet weather, see that it is clean before putting your
camera away, and wipe it, if necessary, with a piece of' soft cloth.

3. Do not leave the shutter wound over a period of days, as this will weaken the shutter spring.

4. When not in use, place the syncro setting at X and the shutterAt 1/25. This is important in preserving the life
of the camera.

5. When putting the camera in the case, set the distance at infinity.

6. In order to keep the camera from getting damaged through exposure to moist atmospheric, put it in a box arid
in a dry, cool place. A chemical substance that will keep the air dry may be obtained.

YOUR MARK OF QUALITY

RIKEN OPTICAL INDUSTRIES, LTD`

TOKYO-NEW YORK

Tokyo Office No. 1, 3-chome, Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo

New York Office 521 Fifth Avenue, New York 17, New York