Film cameras
Rolleiflex Automat User manual
User manual for Rolleiflex Automat. 38 pages in English. Read the original PDF, download or print a copy without registration.
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Document details
- Brand
- Rollei
- Model / document
- Rolleiflex Automat
- Document type
- User manual
- Language
- English
- Pages
- 38
- File size
- 6.8 MB
- Category
- Film cameras
- Document date
- Not specified in catalog
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Page 2 · Read text
The Automatic Rolleiflex is a precision camera of the most advanced modern design. Equipped with lenses of superior optical quality, Schneider Xenar3.5 or Zeiss Tessar 3.5, it offers superb performance. Even more astonishing to first-time-users is Rollei's extreme handling ease, due entirely to the many exclusive, automatic features incorporated in its design. The correct methods of holding and handling the camera should be learned from the very start. The following pages contain a fully detailed description, with illustrations, of the construction and functioning of the camera. Helpful rules and hints, fundamental to the practice of Rollei-photography, are also included. We hope that this book will help each new Rolleiflex owner to achieve the most complete success with the camera and, of course, in the shortest possible time. FRANKE & HEIDECKE BRAUNSCHWEIGView original page 2
Page 5 · Read text
www.butkus.us 34. Automatic film feeler mechanism rollers 35. Anti-reflection baffles 36. Winding key for take-up spool 37. Combination back for No. 120 (B 118) and 35 mm film 38. Adjustable film pressure plate 39. Back locking lever 40. Tripod socketView original page 5
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TO LOCATE THE MOST IMPORTANT PARAGRAPHS QUICKLY
40 V. Tips on Picture-Taking
6 I. A Brief Rolleiflex-Anatomy
40 Landscapes 42 Portraits
10 The Automatic Film Transport Mechanism
43 Children
12 II. Rolleiflex in Operation
43 Animals
12 Ever Ready Case
44 Snapshots
12 Lens Cap
45 Sports
14 Holding the Camera
46 Theatre and Music-Hall
16 Focusing Hood
46 Night
16 Focusing Magnifier
47 Copying
17 Direct View Finder
48 Reflecting Surfaces
18 Focusing
49 Plants
18 Diaphragm
49 Color Pictures
19 Depth of Field
50 Panoramas
24 Shutter and Shutter Release
50 Rolleigrid Lens
26 Self-Timer
52 Micro Photography
26 Exposure
53 Care of Camera
27 Auxiliary Focusing Knob
53 In Case of Damage to the Camera
28 III. Loading and Film Transport
Tables:
28 Back
21 Depth of Field
30 Inserting the Film Spool
23 Speed of Moving Objects and Shutter Speeds
32 Threading the Film Leader
36 Flash-Contact and Shutter Speeds
32 Film Transport
51 Practical Accessories
35 IV. Flashlight Technique
54 Rollei Filters
38 Flash Photography Tips
55 RolleinorsView original page 6Page 7 · Read text
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This Rolleiflex instruction book offers you the basic information necessary for the use of the camera. Practical
matters of technique are adequately discussed, usually in the form of concise tips covering the most important
phases of picture-taking. Easy to use, highly informative tables are also included. It will, therefore, remain a
source of information of permanent value to you.
Important: Before attempting to use or handle the camera we urge you to read carefully pages 12, 16, 24 and 28.
CLICK ON IMAGE TO ENLARGE PICTURE
I. A BRIEF ROLLEIFLEX-ANATOMY
The Automatic Rolleiflex is a camera characterized above all by two
special design features: the rigid construction of the twin lens reflex
and the automatic film transport mechanism. These technical
advantages do not form merely a basis for very high performance but
at the same time contribute materially to the simplicity and ease of use
for which the Rollei is justly famous.
It takes but a glance at the construction of the camera to recognize the
simple elements of its practical operation.
Construction of the Twin Lens Reflex
In the Rolleiflex two separate cameras are joined in a twin-camera
with a common sturdy die-cast body: the bottom half is the
taking-camera, in which the film is exposed, and the upper half is the
viewing-camera, which is designed on the mirror-reflex principle. Its
special task is to make the focusing visible on the ground glass and to
supply a control image essentially similar to that of the prospective
picture.
The image forming rays are transmitted by the fully open
viewing lens, projected on to the ground glass screen via the
mirror and the result is a right-side-up, but laterally reversed
ground glass image, in the full size of the original picture.
This viewing image is visible at all times and every detail of
composition and framing may be watched even during
exposure.
The ground glass screen is ruled with a number of vertical
and horizontal lines making it possible to detect errors, such
as lines which converge but should be-parallel or a slanting
horizon, in time to notice and correct them. It is easy to
straighten or level the camera by means of the lines on the
ground glass screen.
Above all, the ground glass screen provides the means for focusing
the camera. This is accomplished by rotating the focusing knob.
Both lenses, which are inflexibly coupled to each other by means
of a sturdy common front plate, are thereby adjusted
simultaneously: a sharp viewing image, therefore, guarantees an
equally sharp picture. Since the Rolleiflex is equipped with a fast
viewing lens and an optically prepared ground glass screen, the
viewing image is extremely bright and clear and focusing can be
done very critically.View original page 7Page 8 · Read text
The focusing hood, which is designed for one-hand
operation, is kept in both open and closed positions by
spring tension. It is equipped with a magnifier offering
approximately 2.5 times magnification for critical focusing.
The rectangular magnifier flap also acts as a shield for the
focusing hood and prevents extraneous light from above
reaching the viewing image.
If the front panel of the focusing hood is pushed inward, it is
transformed into a direct view finder through which the
subject may be seen in natural size making it particularly
easy to follow fast action. In this case it is still possible at all
times to maintain control over focus: this is made possible
by means of a second magnifier in the back f the focusing
hood, and a diagonally mounted mirror. A slight raising or
lowering of the Rolleiflex is all that is required to alternate
between the right-side-up open view in the direct finder, and
the reversed center portion of the ground glass focusing
image. The fact that the two finder openings are located so
www.butkus.us close together, enables quick framing of the subject after
focusing. The usefulness f the open direct view finder is
thereby enhanced for sports pictures.
Focusing the front lens panel throughout the range
from 22/3 ft - v (infinity) is accomplished by one full
turn of the focusing knob. The special design of the
focusing mechanism (a cam-drive based on the
principle f the Archimedes spiral) insures uniform
movement f the lens panel in both directions without
play or backlash.
Tied in with the movement of the lenses is a simple
sliding mechanism, located beneath the ground glass,
providing completely automatic parallax
compensation. Consequently, the final picture is
always framed exactly as originally viewed on the
ground glass screen. Similarly complete control can
be had even when using supplementary Rolleinar
lenses for close-up work merely by adding the
Rolleipar.
Diaphragm openings and shutter speeds are regulated
by means of the small knurled wheels located on each
side of the lens panel, and the control scales are
visible in the single window seen at the top of the
panel. Thus, all manipulations take place with the
camera in operating position and are easily checked
with but a single glance.
Since the two lenses are f identical focal length (f -75
mm) it follows that the image in both sections of the
camera will always be critically focused on the same
portion f the subject simultaneously.View original page 8Page 9 · Read text
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The f : 3.5 taking lens is a four glass construction with two cemented elements (modified Taylor-type) and
features outstanding correction for black and white- and color pictures, while the three-element viewing-lens f :
2.8 meets with the special requirements for best ground glass focusing. Both lenses are treated with abrasion
resistant coating. The bayonet receptacles circling the mounts are intended for attaching the lens hood and
supplementary optical accessories, which in this way will be held in optically correct position and form a solid
unit with the camera.
The removable combination back is attached to the camera by means of hinges fitted with locking clips, and at
the bottom it contains the tripod socket and the safety back lock. Its adaptability for the two picture sizes 21/4 X
21/4", and 24 X 36 mm is the result of the adjustable film pressure plate which can be set for 120 (B II 8)-film
(with paper backing), or for 35 mm film (without paper backing) when used in conjunction with the Rolleikin 2
attachment. In both cases a film channel is created with a width that corresponds to the thickness of the film
being used. Thus the film can be properly held in the focal plane, and also can slide through without undue
friction when advanced.
The Automatic Film Transport Mechanism
The constant readiness f the Rolleiflex, a natural result of its advantageous twin-lens design, is further enhanced
by the automatic film transport mechanism. The quick acting crank coupled with an automatic gear mechanism
performs six important functions with each pendulum swing:
1. Advances film to next frame
2. Advances film frame counter 3. Tensions the shutter
4. Resets the self-timer mechanism 5. Releases shutter lock 6. Engages film lock.
The shutter release and film advance crank are locked and unlocked alternately, thereby offering full insurance
against double exposures or skipped frames.
Automatic stops limit the extent of crank swing. With the increasing thickness of the film on the take-up spool
the crank swing decreases from 3/4 of a turn in the beginning to just under 1/2 turn at the end of the roll. Thus
the film is always advanced exactly one full frame.
In addition to this, each swing of the crank automatically brings
up the next number in the film counter window.
The positioning of the film so that the first frame is correctly
placed also is accomplished automatically. After inserting the
full film spool in the bottom chamber, the paper leader must be
passed through the two feeler rollers and drawn up on to the
empty take-up spool. The feeler rollers will allow uninterrupted
passage of the thin backing paper. Only when the increased
thickness (at the point where film joins paper) goes through the
rollers, does the automatic tripping mechanism allow the counter
to go into action. The crank continues briefly and then stops,
firmly - the film has reached the position for exposure. No. 1
The pressure of the rollers is released immediately after the
passage of the film's beginning so that the rest of the roll will
slip through freely.
After the twelfth exposure, the counter mechanism automatically
disengages and the crank turns freely, permitting the complete
winding up of the fully exposed film.View original page 9Page 10 · Read text
II. THE ROLLEIFLEX IN OPERATION The Ever Ready Case deserves mention here since it is so often used with the camera. The case may also be used with the Rolleikin 2 attachment merely by removing the leather insert to permit passage of the larger counter knob. In order to assure solid contact when working with a tripod, do not use the ever ready case. To Open: lift the top by grasping the snap catch buttons at the rear and fold forward and down (1). To Close: pull the top over the camera and push down to engage the snaps. (Simultaneous folding of the focusing hood is also possible with this movement.) Always return focusing knob to infinity position since the extended front may otherwise interfere with closing the case. To Remove Camera From Case: pull up the metal clips located at the top of the sides of the case (2). Lift the crank a little way from the case, spread the sides and lift the camera forward and out (3). Putting the Camera in the Case: pull up the clips and spread the case apart; then slip the crank through the large opening from the inside and lower the camera backwards into the case. Push the clips down through the chrome plated strap holder slots. For Cameras with Rolleikin 2: straighten out toe five metal tabs of the leather insert on the inside of the case with a knife (4) and then push out the row superfluous disc.View original page 10
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www.butkus.us The Lens Cap is foldable. The upper part is attached in front of the viewing lens by bayonet mounting and the lower part through friction fit. Removal of Lens Cap: lift the lower part by the tab at the lower edge and fold it against the upper part (5). Remove cap from the bayonet by turning it counter-clockwise 1/4 of a turn (6). Attaching Lens Cap: fit the folded cap into the bayonet of the viewing lens - hinge pointing to the right (focusing knob) - and fasten it with a 1/4 turn clockwise. Fold down the lower part and snap into place. Basic rule: camera hanging around the neck with taut strap and the camera held firmly by both hands. The right hand grasps the camera at the bottom, the index finger on the shutter release, the thumb supporting the uplifted crank (quick handling of the film transport: p.34). The left hand does the focusing (1). In this position diaphragm and shutter controls may be operated comfortably with two fingers. The Carrying Strap is adjusted to a comfortable length, so that the camera may be carried on the shoulder when not in use. In order that the shutter may be released with taut strap to avoid camera movement, loop the strap around the right hand, thus shortening it to achieve normal viewing distance (2). Further shortening of the strap when using the magnifier can easily be effected by making use of the left hand in the same way (3). Holding the Camera Caution: a wrong or uncomfortable "grip" may cause you to lift inadvertently the hanging top of the ever ready case.View original page 11
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A leather neck strap is also available for working without the ever ready case. To attach: slip both ends through
the strap holder slots and fasten to the strop holder buttons. The strap holders can be swung backwards at an
angle, so that the camera hangs comfortably in front of the body (4).
Waist-level or eye-level positions for the camera are considered normal for most pictures. The extremely
flexible Rollei, however, readily permits exposures at or near floor level, overhead, shooting straight up or
down, and occasionally, surprise snaps "around the corner". The illustrations (5-8) show a few possibilities for
such pictures with the camera in different positions.
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Focusing Hood
To Open: lift the rear edge of the focusing hood cover - Spring tension keeps it open (1). To Close: pull back
focusing hood (2).
Note: the focusing hood may be closed only with the magnifier in folded position.
The focusing hood may also be closed with the same hand movement that closes the ever ready case (see page
12). The push-button at the rear of the focusing hood serves to hold the Rolleikin ground glass screen mask or
the Rolleigrid lens.
Focusing Magnifier
To Raise: pull release lever in the open focusing hood upwards - the magnifier springs into position (3).
To Lower (before closing the focusing hood): push down magnifier flap until it snaps into position. Avoid
touching the lens itself (4).
Use of the Magnifier: use the magnifier as close to the eye as possible.
The mar r is interchangeable and may be replaced for the convenience of near or far sighted people. Strengths
from minus three to plus three diopters are available.View original page 12Page 13 · Read text
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Direct View Finder
To Open (after raising the magnifier): push the direct view finder flap inwards until it snaps into place (5).
To Close: depress magnifier flap slightly - the direct view finder panel immediately returns to normal position
(6).
The subject is viewed at eye-level through the direct view finder and focusing may be checked by means of the
second (also interchangeable) magnifier.
The two pin sockets and small knob on the front of
the hood permit attachment of the Rolleikin direct view finder mask.
Changing Magnifier (if eyesight demands)
To Remove: pull back ring mount against retaining spring and lift out. To insert: put into position (back first),
pull back against spring and snap down.
Rear Magnifier: to remove: push in slightly at top and lift out. To insert: slip magnifier (white dot uppermost)
between retaining springs - push down until it snaps into place.
Focusing
Focus the Rolleiflex by turning the focusing knob,
at the same time critically observing the sharpness
of the ground glass screen image. The footage scale
serves also to indicate the depth of field, a matter
which need not concern you too much at first. The
magnifier facilitates the most critical focusing.
Important:
Focus so that the greatest degree of sharpness
prevails at main subject distance.
The diaphragm controls the amount of
light passing through the lens. It has a
double effect: Stopping down
increases the depth of field and reduces
the effective amount of light.
Therefore, the exposure must be
increased correspondingly at smaller
diaphragm openingsView original page 13Page 14 · Read text
The following table gives the ratio of exposure at the different openings:
Diaphragm 3.5 4 5.6 8 11 16 22
Exposure 3/4 1 2 4 8 16 32
Notice that each succeeding smaller stop requires exactly double the exposure of the preceding one. Only
exception - the relation between f:3.5 and f.4.
The diaphragm scale itself is easily seen, black figures, in the peep window above the viewing lens. The dot
before f : 22 indicates the position for f : 16.
Setting the Diaphragm: with camera in operating position, turn the small knurled wheel on the left side, between
the lenses.
Depth of Field
Most picture subjects require that acceptable
sharpness extend somewhat before and behind
the exact distance focused on. Landscapes, for
instance, require considerable "depth of field".
Two factors influence the extent of the sharp
zone: distance actually focused on and
diaphragm opening.
In contrast to close-up focusing the sharp zone is
many times greater when the lens is focused on
long distance:
1. The depth of field increases with the taking distance.
In any case, however, the sharp zone of the picture may be increased considerably by stopping down the
diaphragm:
2. The depth of field increases when stopping down.
As a practical rule the second alternative is preferable and only in emergency cases should the taking distance
be increased because of loss in image size.
The extent of the depth of field at any distance may be read off on the focusing knob.
Depth of Field Scale
On and next to the focusing knob two scales are visible: the movable focusing scale with figures indicating feet
and the fixed depth of field scale with the diaphragm values. The diaphragm figures are arranged in pairs
symmetrically on both sides of the central focusing point; the diaphragm openings f : 5.6 and f : 11 are
represented by black sections below the scale.
The center of each footage figure indicates the correct setting for that distance.View original page 14Page 15 · Read text
www.butkus.us In Practice After focusing, the near and far limits of the depth of field may be read off directly below the pair of figures indicating the diaphragm opening chosen. The section of the footage scale bracketed between the identical figures representing the diaphragm opening indicates the exact zone of sharp focus. 1. Example: focusing to 10 ft. with diaphragm opening 8 gives a depth of field 8 ft. to 13 ft. Focusing to 10 ft. with diaphragm opening f : 16 gives on the other hand a depth of field from 7 ft. to 20 ft. (Stopping down improves the depth of field!) Considerable stopping down necessitates greatly increased exposure time. To obtain depth of field with the largest possible diaphragm opening, a different method of focusing must be employed: 2. Example: the subject requires sharpness from 7 ft. to 10 ft. (Other distances, if unknown, can be read directly off the scale after focusing separately to the limits required.) Procedure: the focusing knob is turned until both footage values are located opposite identical diaphragm openings, and in this way the most favorable diaphragm opening is obtained, in this case f : 8.View original page 15
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Since the sharp zone in the picture does not end abruptly, but gradually changes to something less sharp, it is generally sufficient to read the depth of field in round figures. With this in mind the scale on the focusing knob has been calibrated for quick and practical use. If exact figures are desired, these may be found in the table on page 21. The Depth of Field Table for normal use the upper of the double row of diaphragm figures is used as in the case when an enlargement is to be made later from the entire 21/4 X 21/4 negative. (These diaphragm openings are based on a circle confusion of 1/1400 of the focal length.) On the other hand if enlargements are to be made from a small portion of the negative (or Rolleikin negatives), it is advisable to go by the lower row of diaphragm openings (circle of confusion = f/2000). Explanation: the degree of sharpness required from a negative is exclusively dependent on the magnification of the prospective enlargement and its subsequent viewing distance. In order to obtain a correct perspective impression at 10" (a comfortable viewing distance) a whole Rollei negative would hove to be enlarged 3.3 X to 7/2X71/2". Enlargements of this size, viewed at 10", determine the basis for the minimum acceptable sharpness. With this in mind the size of the circle of confusion is computed and the limits of the depth of field ascertained. Negatives made in this way will permit enlargements also to larger sizes, while still retaining the same impression of sharpness. This is because the viewing distance is always correspondingly increased.View original page 16
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www.butkus.us With enlargements from portions of Rollei negatives or from Rolleikin negatives, the requirements with regard to sharpness are more critical. In this case depth of field is calculated using a smaller circle of confusion. In practical use the required depth is obtained through the use of a smaller diaphragm opening. The effectiveness of the scale on the camera itself may be extended in the same manner merely by using the next smaller diaphragm opening than the one indicated for the desired zone. If enlargements of very great size are to be made use a diaphragm opening two stops smaller than the one indicated. Moving Objects require short shutter speeds in order to be reproduced sharply. For this purpose the table contains accurately computed minimum values, depending on the factors: speed, distance and direction. Taking distance: the yard-column on the left stands for sufficient sharpness (f/1400), the yard column on the right for increased sharpness (f/2000). In spite of these normally correct figures, it is often possible in actual photography to use longer shutter speeds. This is because the eye interprets slight unsharpness as giving an added impression of speed. Long arrow => direction movement. A short arrow -taking direction (=> up to 10°, 45° arrow up to 30 and (up arrow) up to 90° to the direction of movement).View original page 17
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Shutter and Shutter Release
The Synchro - Compur - shutter is a between - the - lens shutter and operates with the above mentioned speeds.
1/50th sec. stands as the most commonly used instantaneous shutter speed with little risk of camera movement.
Shutter speeds longer than 1/25th sec. are in general possible only with a tripod.
The shutter speed values appear in the peep window as red figures - read them as denominators of the fraction
values, i. e. 25 = 1/25th sec. Intermediate speeds may be set at any points between 1 sec. and 1/10th sec. and
between 1/25th and 1/250th sec. Due to a supplementary spring, added resistance will be felt when setting to
1/500th sec. The shutter should be set to or changed from this highest speed before winding by means of crank
action.
In the selection of shutter speed the movement in the picture must be considered, in order to avoid unsharpness
due to movement. The table on page 23 contains the practically permissible speeds.
The shutter release is safeguarded with a release guard against accidental exposures. A cable release may be
screwed into the release button, and can be used regardless of the position of the safety guard. - The edge of the
knob and the open side of the safety guard have engaging threads for locking the release button during long
time exposures.
The camera may be attached to a tripod by means of the threaded socket on the bottom. Caution : the length of
the tripod screw must not exceed 3/16". If longer, employ a washer or spacer to avoid damage to camera. For
cameras with continental tripod sockets a reducing bushing is available.
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Setting the Shutter Speed: turn the small knurled wheel next to the lenses on the right (with camera in
operating position) (1).
Winding: automatically done through crank action (page 32).
Releasing Shutter:
Instantaneous Exposures: swing the release guard down, press the release (2) with the right index finger
gently with a single continuous movement until it stops!View original page 18Page 19 · Read text
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Time Exposures: set shutter to B. It remains open as long as the release button is kept depressed. For
exposures free from camera movement: use a cable release!
Long Time Exposures: as above, however, employ a cable release with a locking device. Also the
depressed release button may be locked for the duration of the exposure by means of the safety guard
lever (3).
Self-Timer
If the photographer himself wants to appear in the picture, the self-timer is employed instead of the shutter
release button. It is wound automatically by crank action (and is always ready for use). With the exception of B
all shutter speeds from 1 to 1;500 sec. may be used. The action of the self-timer allows the photographer
approximately 10 seconds before the shutter opens for the previously selected exposure time.
If the shutter has just been released by hand it is perhaps needless to say that the crank must be wound before
either a self-timed or any other kind of picture can be taken.
To Release the Self-Timer: push the self-timer release button in the direction of the arrow.
The shutter and self-timer may be left wound even when the camera is laid away for short periods of time
without weakening the power of the springs. A good habit to develop, however, is to leave the winding of the
shutter until shortly before the exposure, so that 1/500th sec. may be used, if required.
The Exposure
The correct exposure is dependent upon existing illumination (more exactly: subject brightness) and results
from the selection of the proper diaphragm opening and shutter speed. Consequently the following relationship
exists:
With the Rolleiflex, various settings of diaphragm openings and speeds may be combined as required for
normal picture-taking. Only under unfavorable shooting conditions are these possibilities limited, so that a
compromise solution is sometimes necessary. Nevertheless the following must be kept in mind: under-exposure
results in hopelessly lost shadow detail, whereas over-exposure may be compensated for to a great extent by
proper processing.
A golden rule for safe exposure:
Always expose for the shadows, rather a bit
more than too little!
The Exposure Table (There are a number of free or paid light meter Apps)
The table on the back of the camera is based on the speeds of the two most commonly used types of film: the
upper scale is used with films rated at 100 ASA (21/10° DIN), and the lower scale is used with film rated at 50
ASA (18!10° DIN). Conversion of the table for use with other film speeds is possible, if it is remembered that
half the ASA rating (or minus 3/10° DIN) means that double the exposure is required.
For the two months immediately bracketing the summer months or if the sun is lower in the sky or if the sky is
overcast, double the indicated exposure. If more than one of these conditions prevail, double the exposure for
each factor.View original page 19Page 20 · Read text
Exposure in the wintertime around noon: with snow -use the normal values f the table, without snow - multiply
exposure by 4.
The table, although not always exact, has nevertheless proved itself so good that serious exposure errors are
generally avoided. In difficult cases or for greatest accuracy, it is advisable to use a photoelectric exposure
meter.
Auxiliary Focusing Knob with Film Indicator
A really practical aid towards obtaining correct
exposures, the auxiliary focusing knob (p.51)
contains two adjustable discs, variable
according to film type and speed. Thus it is
always possible to know what kind of material
was last loaded in the camera. Furthermore, the
larger, easier-to-grip shape and large footage
scale facilitates accurate focusing under
specially difficult working conditions, such as
when using gloves in cold weather.
III. LOADING AND FILM TRANSPORT -
The Rolleiflex is loaded with 2/4 X 31/2 roll-film 120 or B II 8 (620 not usable) and delivers 12 exposures 2/4
X 21/4. (See page 29.)
The loading of the camera is confined to a few simple operations: open the back - insert the full film spool -
thread the film - close the back. From now on the film transport follows automatically through crank action.
Back
To Open: swing aside the back locking lever at the bottom of the camera (1), lift the clip (2), open back
(3), using the clip as a handle.
To Close: with the flat of the hand push the back closed, fold down the clip and return locking lever to
full forward position.
The back is generally removed only when replaced by the plate adapter.-View original page 20Page 21 · Read text
www.butkus.us To Remove: push both back hinge clips upwards (4) and open back fully (5). Press back sideways against the hinge and at the same time remove it from the free end (6). To Attach: insert the detached back's hinge pins first in one and then in the other hinge, press the hinges against the camera and secure them with the clips. Protect the open camera against prevailing dust and dirt and clean it occasionally with a soft camel's hair brush! Ne Never change film in direct sunlight, utilize at least your own body's shadow! Note: for the Rolleifex the following adapter accessories are also available: Rolleikin 2 Attachment for 36 exposures 24 X 36 mm on 35 mm film, Plate Back Adapter for separate exposures 21/4 X21/4" on plates or cut films 2 1/2X3 1/2". Film Pressure Plate Must be Positioned Correctly! - When roll-film is employed, the inscription 21/4x21/4" must be visible below the film pressure plate. When changing from 120 roll film to 35 mm film, or the reverse, an adjustment must be made according to the film type being used. To adjust the film pressure plate (1): Press the plate against the back and push it up or down until it stops. When released it must spring forward completely into the normal plane! Inserting the Film Spool In the factory-new camera the empty spool (take-up spool) is already in position. After removal of the exposedView original page 21
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film the just emptied spool becomes a take-up spool, and must be transferred to the upper spool-chamber. The end with the slot goes to the right engaging the winding key of the film transport mechanism (2). Both spools are held on the left hand side by spool knobs. The bearing pins are withdrawn when changing spools by pulling out the knobs. The pulled out upper knob (take-up-spool) may be held in that position by turning it slightly; turning it a little more permits it to snap back by itself. To Insert the Empty Spool: first fit the spool over the winding key on the right (crank side) and pull out the guide knob (3). Push the spool down on the left applying slight pressure, so that the knob may snap back into place fully (4). It is then necessary to turn the crank until the long slot in the empty spool comes uppermost (5). Note: when using the adapter the empty 120 (or B 2) spool is removed from the camera. However, it must be handily retained especially on trips, since otherwise a new roll-film cannot be loaded into the camera. To Insert a Full Film Spool: in the same way as applies to the take-up spool (6). The pointed end of the backing paper must point in the direction of the take-up-spool chamber, so that the colored side of the backing paper remains on the outside. Threading the Film (Paper Leader) -View original page 22
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www.butkus.us After inserting the new film-spool tear the tape seal open and remove it. 1. Thread the beginning of the backing paper through the rollers of the film feeler mechanism (important!) and draw it up to the take-up-spool, colored and printed side outwards (1). 2. Push the paper leader through the long slot of the take-up-spool as far as it goes (2). 3. Tighten the backing paper by one spool turn (=approximately 3/4 crank turn), making sure that the paper is wound up properly on the take-up spool (3). Close back (with the film pressure plate adjusted according to instructions!). Film Transport The correct positioning of the film according to the first and following numbers of the exposure counter is accomplished exclusively by the crank. The correct operation of this is governed by stops: Swing out crank (4), turn it until it stops with one continuous swing (5) and then back again until the next stop (6)! It is now locked, until the automatically wound shutter is released. The simple rule then reads: If the crank can be turned, it must be turned - once in each direction until it stops, until it locks! When advancing the film to exposure No. 1 some 4 to 5 comp 1 e t e crank turns are required. During the last turn a slight resistance of the mechanism must be overcome as the counter moves from 0 to 1. If it should happen that the crank reaches starting position when it stops, reverse direction one full turn, so that it locks! During continued film transport the amount of crank travel decreases gradually to about a half turn.> When making exposures in rapid succession it is unnecessary to fold down the crank each time. It remains locked in its starting position, ready for the next film advance, with a slight pressure of the thumb keeping it against its stop. If longer intervals occur between exposures the question could arise: has the film already been advanced and the shutter wound? The crank gives the answer immediately:View original page 23
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