Film cameras
Rolleiflex SL66 User manual
User manual for Rolleiflex SL66. 35 pages in English. Read the original PDF, download or print a copy without registration.
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Document details
- Brand
- Rollei
- Model / document
- Rolleiflex SL66
- Document type
- User manual
- Language
- English
- Pages
- 35
- File size
- 2.2 MB
- Category
- Film cameras
- Document date
- Not specified in catalog
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Page 2 · Read text
CLICK HERE TO GO TO
ROLLEIFLEX SL66 CASE BOOKLET
Rolleiflex SL66 Metering Hood
,View original page 2Page 3 · Read text
www.butkus.us
Digitally signed by Mike Butkus
DN: cn=Mike Butkus, o=Butkus camera manuals,
ou=butkus.org, email=mike@butkus.org, c=USMike Butkus Date: 2023.02.08 17:08:53 -05'00'
Rolleiflex SL 66
A camera for experts, designed for you: we congratulate you on your choice
We take it for granted that as an owner of the SL 66 you know all about the basic technicalities of photography.
So we have kept the instructions concise. Taking, the extended scope of the camera and interchangeable
components are covered in three chapters. The tabular sections sum up all important data to show you at a
glance the facts about the range of focal lengths and camera extensions.
We are sure of your photographic success with the Rolleiflex SL 66. If you have any further photographic or
technical queries, your Rollei Dealer - you can recognize him by the blue/grey Rollei service placard - or our
own technical service is fully at your disposal.
Page
5. Your First Rule 1
Shooting Practice 12. Extended Depth
6. Loading the Magazine 12. Pre-releasing the MirrorView original page 3Page 4 · Read text
7. Checking for Readiness to Shoot 13. Multiple Exposures
8. Shooting 13. Flash Shots
9. Film Transport and Shutter Tensioning 14. Exposures with Filters
9. Unloading the Magazine 14. Exposures with the Lens Hood
Further Scope 14. Tripod Quick Coupling
10. Distance Scale 14. Accessory Shoe
11. Scale of Reproduction 15. Neck Strap
11. Depth of Field 15. Film Type indicator
Interchangeable Components
22. Subject Distances, Subject Fields and Scales
16. Lens Changing
of Reproduction
16. Changing the Focusing Hood
22. Normal or Reversed Lens Mounting?
17. Changing the Magnifier
23. Focusing Correction for Infra-red
17. Changing the Focusing Screen
24. Focusing Ranges Summed up
18. Changing the Magazine
26. The Depth Tilt Indicator
19. Loading the Spare Magazine
30 .Care of the Camera
Tables and Data Summaries 30. The Rolleiflex SL 66 and Accessories
20. Interchangeable Lenses
31. Handling Faults and Remedies
21. Scales of Reproduction, Lens Extensions,
Exposure FactorsView original page 4Page 5 · Read text
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Your First Rule
Before you load or unload a film, before you remove or
fit the magazine, before you press the release--always
cheek that the crank is unfolded and blocked.
For this purpose swing the crank fully forward as far as it
will go (1) and back again to its stop (2).
This tensions the shutter. It also sets up the automatic
safety interlocks to prevent film waste during film
changing or magazine changing. Accidental double
exposures, blank frames and overlapping pictures are
impossible.
Once the crank locks, you know immediately c that the
camera is ready for correct operation.
Shooting Practice
You will find everything on the next four pages: from loading the fresh film to unloading the exposed film.
You can also practice the individual steps a a camera without film. For this the came' must be in its standard
shooting state - with the magazine attached and the slide pulled out (push it into the storage compartment I the
back).View original page 5Page 6 · Read text
Loading the Magazine
The procedure for loading the magazine is the same whether it
is on the camera or off the camera. When only one magazine is
in use, there is no need to remove it from the camera. In this
case the magazine slide remains permanently in the storage
compartment in the rear of the magazine.
Basic rule: Unfold the crank (1) and turn it forward and
backward until it locks.
To open the magazine: Unlock the back (2) and swing open
(3). This also makes the magazine knob (4) jump out; the
exposure counter (5) now indicates No. 1. Grip the film insert
by the central bar (6) and swing it out of the magazine.
Setting the film counter to 12 or 24 exposures: Switch over the
setting lever (7). The film counter (5) shows by its number - 12
or 24 - whether the magazine is set for No. 120 or 220 roll
film.
You can switch over even when the magazine is closed, as
long as the film counter still shows No. 1.
Loading a roll film: Swing open the spool holder (8). Remove
the seal of the roll film (9) and fit the spool between the fixed
and the hinged shaft pins so that the black inside surface of the
backing paper (10) faces outwards. Run the backing paper
round the film insert and thread it into the slot (11) of the
empty spool. With one or two turns of the gear wheel (12)
tighten the paper leader firmly well. This will keep the
distances between the exposures sufficiently small to avoid a
possible loss of the 12th or 24th exposure (film transport
control may be interfered by film windings being too loose).View original page 6Page 7 · Read text
www.butkus.us Checking for Readiness to Shoot Grip the film insert by its centre bar and slide it into the magazine with the take-up spool first, so that the gear wheels on the insert and inside the magazine engage (13). Check the film advance by a short turn of the magazine knob (14). Then swing the magazine back closed (15) and check that it locks. Advancing the film to exposure No. 1: Turn the magazine knob until it locks and then push in (16). The backing paper is now spooled up and the film feeler mechanism has locked any further film transport: the film is ready for the first exposure. For subsequent exposures the crank advances the film. Releasing the magazine knob. On depressing the release (17) with a pointed object the magazine knob springs out. Thus the film can be wound off and unloaded after any shot-- even with the magazine removed from the camera. The loading indicator (18) in the underside of the magazine shows a dot and a dash in line like an exclamation mark: "The magazine is loaded!'. When the magazine is empty, the dash is at right angles to the dot. The Rolleiflex SL 66 is now ready to shoot. If in doubt, it is possible to check with the crank lock even after loading the film whether the camera is correctly set: push the lever (19) in the direction of the crank handle and at the same time try to turn the crank. If the crank is not locked, swing it down, let 9 of the lever (19) and complete the crank movement forward and back again. The camera is now ready to shoot. If you notice that you forgot to wind the crank only when pressure on the release has no effect, the same procedure still avoids wasting a film frame. You can lose the first picture - and in fact wind the film through completely - only if the cranking movement was not complete an the crank is not pointing forward. While this in no way harms the camera, you can avoid it by making a habit of checking the locking of the crank before loading the camera.View original page 7
Page 8 · Read text
Shooting
Turn the lens cap to the left and remove. Open the focusing
hood (1). To close, push in the side panels.
To raise the magnifier press the key (2). To fold it back again,
press down the magnifier frame between magnifier and the
front of the focusing hood (3) until it engages.
1. The Shutter Speed
Turn the knob (4) to engage the appropriate shutter speed. The
figures 1000 to 1 are fractions of a second, B is the setting for
time exposures of any duration. Intermediate speeds cannot be
set.
Shutter speeds for flash: see page 13.
Exposure value correction: see pages21 and 25.
2. The Aperture
Turn the aperture ring (5). It engages at full and half stop
settings.
The 40 mm, 50 mm, 80 mm, 120 mm, 150mm and 250 mm
lenses have a fully automatic spring loaded iris diaphragm.
The lens remains fully open until the moment of exposure. The
aperture closes down to the pre-selected value only on pressing
the release.
For other lenses: see page 20
3. Focusing
Turn the focusing knob (6) until the picture appears sharpest
on the screen (7).
With lenses of very long focal length and when using extreme
depth tilt the mirror may cut off a strip near the top of the
screen image. The film in every case still records the full
picture area.
Distance scale: see page 10. Depth of field: see page 11.
Depth tilt: see page 12.View original page 8Page 9 · Read text
www.butkus.us 4. Releasing Unlock the release button (by turning) and press (8). When the red dot is visible from above, the release is locked. When the red dot is not visible from above, the release is free. Time exposures at the B setting: Press down the release button for the duration of the required exposure time or keep it in the depressed position by the locking collar. The shutter only closes on unlocking or letting go of the release. The release button incorporates a cable release thread. Film Transport and Shutter Tensioning After every exposure unfold the crank and turn it fully forward and back again until it locks (9). The forward swing tensions the shutter while the return swing to its final position advances the film. The camera is then ready for the next exposure. During shooting the crank may remain unfolded for immediate operation. Unloading the Magazine After the last exposure the magazine knot springs out when you turn the crank - an audible and visible sign that the film is finished. First complete any started crank movement (10) swing fully forward and back. Then keep turning the magazine knob (11) until the remainder of the backing paper is spooler up and the knob turns freely without resistance. Open the magazine (12) remove the insert Swing away the spool pin and take out the exposed roll. Transfer the now empty feed spool to the take-up end from which the exposed spool was removed. This now becomes the take-up spool for the next film. Film transport principles summed up: To advance the film from exposure to exposure always use the crank-- but wind up backing paper leaders and trailers always with the magazine knob.View original page 9
Page 10 · Read text
Further Scope Distance Scale At every subject distance the Rolleiclear focusing screen with central micro prism provides a direct and precise check on the image sharpness. The distance scale on the focusing knob is normally used only for depth of field estimation, for zone focus settings and when using flash. The figures on the distance scale apply only to the first complete turn of the focusing knob (with the lens mounted the right way round). The distances are measured from the film plane to the subject. To adapt the scale to the interchangeable 50, 80, 150 and 250 mm lenses the focusing knob contains stored in it four distance scales. The focal length corresponding to the scale in use is shown on the face of the knob. For changing the scale see page 16. The bellows extension of 2 inches (50 mm) can be further increased by extension tubes of 40 and 80 mm used either singly or in combination. This yields still nearer focusing distances with all lenses. With the lens mounted in "retro" position subject distance can be further reduced for (reversed, front element facing the film) the I still larger scales of reproduction. Focusing ranges: see page 25.View original page 10
Page 11 · Read text
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Scale of Reproduction
In close-up work the scale of reproduction is more important
than the subject distance. With the aid of the scales (for three
focal lengths) on the bellows rail you can set the camera
directly to the required scale of reproduction. In this case the
best way of getting the subject sharp is to bring the camera
nearer to or farther away from it.
Explanation of the scale (1):
The four scales apply to the focal lengths of 80, 150 and 120
mm (normal mounting) and 80 mm fitted back-to-front
("retro" mounting). The triangular marks indicate the
orientation of the aperture setting index on the lens when the
latter is mounted normally (2) and back-to-front (3).
The magnification factor to the left of the horizontal setting
mark indicates the scale of reproduction on the film (image
size/subject size), e. 9. 0.4 = 0.4 :1. The required exposure
correction is indicated above the bar (for instance - = reduce
the exposure value by 1 step).
The figures are set and read off along the common scale limit
(the degree scale).
The centre line indicates the length of the bellows extension in
millimeters. For the scales of reproduction with different
bellows extensions for all focal lengths, including the use of
extension tubes, see page 21.
The contra line also acts as the index for the degree scale when
tilting the lens (depth tilt: see page 12).
Depth of Field
You can check the extent of the depth of field directly on the focusing screen or indirectly on the focusing knob.
1. For lenses with spring loaded iris diaphragm press the stopping-down key (4). This can be locked by
inclining it and released the same way. The lens then stops down the pre-selected value. The ground glass
screen is particularly suitable for this check on the final image appearance.
2. Opposite the distance scale index lines with appropriate aperture figures show the extent of the depth of field
(for a circle confusion of 56 microns or 0.0022 inch). Either estimate the actual subject distances measure by
accurate focusing of the screen Image.
Beyond the first full turn of the focusing knob or when using the depth tilt the figures act index values for the
measured distances.View original page 11Page 12 · Read text
At increased extensions the effective aperture of the lens changes. When the bellows tension is more than half
the focal length, the effective aperture (which is what matters for the exposure and the depth of field) no lone
corresponds to the f-number engraved on the lens scale. For actual depths of field under these conditions see
page 25.
Extended Depth
You can gain extended depth by tilting the lens axis
when the subject is confined to one plane at an angle to
the camera. By tilting the camera and in addition tilting
the lens axis it becomes possible to extend the zone of
sharp reproduction over a large distance range even at
full aperture. You can increase this zone further by the
depth of field gained on stopping down.
Tilting the lens: Release the locking knob (1) by turning
to the left. Press down the lever (2) and raise or lower
the lens to set the centre line of the scale (3) to the
required value on the degree scale. Then tighten the
locking knob (1) again.
The lever (2) engages at the two maximum tilt positions
as well as in the centre position of 0°. The locking knob
should however also be tightened when the camera is
used normally with zero tilt.
At the infinity setting no tilt is possible; on turning the
focusing knob forward through half a turn the full tilt of
+8° becomes available.
Important: When turning the focusing knob back with
the tens tilted, the movement limit of the bellows
extension is reached before the infinity position.
Never force the focusing knob past this limit.
"Schelmptiug Indicator". Extended depth by tilting depends on three parameters:
1. The distance setting to the centre of the field;
2. The vertical height of the camera above the object plane, and
3. The angle of tilt of the lens.
In practice you can determine these three values in every case with the aid of the indicator (see page 26).View original page 12Page 13 · Read text
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Pre-releasing the mirror
The movement of the instant return mirror is mechanically and pneumatically braked during releasing. The
mirror starts to swing slowly, accelerates and then slows down again. The gentle conclusion of the swing
movement helps to keep the camera steadier.
In addition you can pre-release the mirror, for example when using a not very rigid tripod, for shots with long
focal lengths or in the extreme close-up range.
To pre-release the mirror: Press down the sliding key (4). Release the shutter in the usual way. After the
exposure the mirror returns into its viewing position.
To bring the mirror back again without taking a picture, cover the lens with the lens cap, release the shutter and
retension it with the film transport disengaged (see Multiple Exposures, page 13).
Multiple Exposures
After the first exposure press the lever (5) inside the
unfolded crank in the direction of the crank handle and
at the same time start turning the crank. Let go off the
lever (5) and complete the normal to-and-fro crank
movement.
This tensions the shutter without advancing the film. As
a check, note that the magazine knob does not turn.
This procedure can be repeated after every exposure to
make any number of exposures on the same film frame.
Flash Shots
All types of flash can be used. The flash cable plugs into
the outlets X and FP. To release the Rollei flash cable
plug, push the button (6) to the right and pull out the
plug.
X-Synchronization
In a focal plane shutter two blinds run down one after
the other. With flashes of very short firing delay the
entire image is exposed only if both blinds fully uncover
the film. Therefore such flashes can only be used up to a
certain shutter speed. At unsuitable speed settings (i. e.
1/60 to 1/1000 second) the flash does not fire either.View original page 13Page 14 · Read text
Shutter Speeds for X-Synchronization Electronic flash: 1/30 to 1 second and B. Flash bulbs (such as AG 3 B. XM 1 B. PF 1 B. FB 1 B. M 3 or similar): 1/15 to 1 second and B. FP-Synchronization Long peak FP (focal plane) flash bulbs are available specially for focal plane shutters. They yield a uniform light output over a longer period. These flash bulbs can be synchronized with the fastest shutter speeds. Their maximum light output is utilised at about 1/60 second. Shutter Speeds for FP-Synchronization FP bulbs (such as XM 6 B. PF 6 B or similar): 1/1000 to 1/60 second. Exposures with Filters The 50 mm, 80 mm, 120 mm, 150 mm, 250 mm, and 1000 mm (Tele-Tessar) lenses have the same size VI bayonet mount and use the same filters. To tit the filter: Insert the filter in the inner bayonet ring of the lens and secure by turning fully to the right. The 500 mm Tele-Tessar uses its own screw in filter. The 1000 mm Tele-Tessar uses filters of bayonet size VI inside the lens body (see separate instruction manual). The 1000 mm Mirotar requires special filters which are inserted from the side in the optical path of the lens. The filter mounts carry, where applicable, a correction value for the exposure value (for example --1.5 for the medium yellow filter). This correction value is deducted from the measured exposure value. Exposures with the Lens Hood The same lens hood fits lenses of 80, 120 150 and 250mm. A special hood is used for the 50 mm lens, a retractable hood is part of the 500 mm lens. An integrated hood belongs to the 1000 mm Tele-Tessar. The 30 mm and 40 mm lenses as well as the 1000 mm Mirotar are used without any lens hood. To tit the hood: Place the lens hood in any position over the outer bayonet ring and secure by turning to the right.View original page 14
Page 15 · Read text
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Tripod Quick Coupling
The camera can be mounted on a tripod or on the bracket
of an electronic flash either via the tripod bush or - still
more conveniently - with the tripod quick coupling. This
utilizes the dovetail guide in the camera base.
To prepare the quick coupling: Screw the coupling unit
to the tripod or to the bracket of the electronic flash and
turn the knob (1) fully to the left. The locking latch (2) is
now swung out of the way and the dovetail guide
unobstructed.
Mounting the camera: Place the camera in the dovetail
guide, push forward and then tighten the knob (3) by
turning to the right. This swings up the locking latch and
presses the camera firmly into the dovetail guide.
To remove the camera proceed in the reverse order, first
turning the knob (1) fully to the left.
Caution: The tripod quick coupling is unsuitable in
connection with the Polaroid magazine and/or the
focusing slide for the extension bellows.View original page 15Page 16 · Read text
Accessory Shoe
The accessory shoe in the left side panel takes small light-weight accessories - e. g. an exposure meter or spirit
level.
Neck Strap
To hang the camera round
the neck, hook the broad Film Type Indicator
snap hooks of the neck
strap (4) into the two strap To mark the film type
eyelets at the side of the loaded in the magazine,
camera. tear off the tab of the film
box, fold it in half and
The eyelets rotate freely, so push sideways into the
that the camera can swing window handle of the
in any shooting direction magazine slide (6). This
and also hangs down direct indication of the
naturally when carried over film packing, featuring
the shoulder. both its lettering and
characteristic colour,
To release the neck strap avoids mix-ups when
press the spring lock and switching between several
push obliquely underneath magazines.
the eyelet. The snap hook
comes free on pressing
against the camera side.View original page 16Page 17 · Read text
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Interchangeable Components
Lens Changing
The instructions for lens changing apply equally to lenses
mounted normally and reversed, and also for the Luminar
adapter and the extension tubes.
To remove the lens: Press the key (1) and at the same time
turn the lens to unlock it from its bayonet mount and lift off.
When using extension tubes, press the corresponding key on
the extension tube.
To fit a lens: Line up the red marks on the lens and on the
lens panel opposite each other (2), insert the lens in the
bayonet mount and turn to secure until it engages with an
audible click.
For shots with the lens reversed (in the retro position), fit the
front bayonet mount of the lens into the camera mount. In this
case line up the red mark on the front mount of the lens with
the mark on the camera. With the lens mounted in this way,
and also when using extension tubes, the automatic
diaphragm control is disengaged and you have to set the
apertures by hand.
When using the Mirotar mirror lens or the 1000 mm Tele-
Tessar follow the instructions enclosed with this lens.
To change the distance scale: Fully pull out the focusing
knob and turn it in this position (3) until the required focal
length appears in the cut-out window (50, 80,120 and 150
mm). The easiest way of changing the focal length is to turn
the pulled-out knob to the right when set to the infinity stop.
Changing the Focusing Hood
The focusing hood and focusing screen can always be
changed irrespective of the operating state of the camera.
To remove the focusing hood: Press the two buttons (4) at the side with the thumb and second finger of the
hand while holding the latter over the closed hood from the front. At the same time lift the rear edge of the hood
with the index finger.
To fit the hood: Insert the hood (with the magnifier release at the back) and engage it by pressing home.
The folding focusing hood can be changed against other special hoods. These are fitted and removed in the
same way.View original page 17Page 18 · Read text
Changing the Magnifier
Changing the Focusing Screen
First remove the focusing hood.
To remove the frame with the focusing screen:
Raise the two retaining springs (6) at both sides,
push the frame forward and lift out.
To remove the focusing screen itself: Press the two
shiny retaining springs at the rear edge of the
focusing screen in succession against the frame and
pull the focusing screen out of its guides. Hold the
screen by the edges only avoid touching the
underside of the Rolleiclear with its embossed
pattern.
The focusing screen can be changed against various
special screens, which are all inserted in the same
way. The embossed (rough) side of the screen being
inserted must face the camera.
To refit the frame: Drop in the frame against the
name plate, press down the frame along both ledges
at the side and pull it backwards (7) until the
retaining springs engage.
Available Alternative Screens:
Rolleiclear with central micro prism. A bright central
area serves for checking the image sharpness.
Rolleiclear with prism rangefinder for specially
precise observation of the sharpness of the vertical
image lines.
Rolleiclear with full area micro-prism pattern.
Ground glass screen with very fine grain for
universal application.
The line grid aids in leveling the camera.
If You Wear Glasses:
For sharp focusing without glasses you can replace the magnifier in the folding hood by alternative magnifiers
to suit individual eyesight defects within a range of +3 and - 3 dioptres (to match the spectacle prescription).View original page 18Page 19 · Read text
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Press the magnifier backwards from the front edge of the mount and lift (5). Push the replacement magnifier
backwards into the magnifier frame and press down to secure.
Changing the Magazine
The magazine on the camera is firmly locked to the body
once the slide is pulled out. To avoid double exposures
and blank frames it can only be removed or fitted when
the shutter is tensioned (after working the crank) and the
slide pushed in. Automatic interlocks ensure that the
magazine can only be changed under the correct
conditions.
Removing the Magazine
Check that the crank is locked (if not, swing it fully
forward and back).
Pull out the slide from its storage compartment (1) and
fully push it in its guides from above (2). The magazine
lock (button 3) is now free.
Press the button (3) and at the same time lift off the
magazine.
As a safety measure, the slide cannot be pushed fully
home if the crank was not fully tensioned. If this
happens, pull out the slide halfway and operate the crank.
Attaching the Magazine
Check that the crank is locked (if it is not, fully swing it forward and back).
Hook in the magazine from above (4) and press it against the back (5) until it engages and locks.
Pull out the slide and store in the rear compartment.View original page 19Page 20 · Read text
Safety interlocks:
1. The magazine will not go on if you omitted to tension the crank. Remedy: Remove the magazine again and
swing the crank fully forward and back.
2. With the magazine in place and the slide pulled out, the release button is locked if you did not fully tension
the crank. Remedy: Before turning the crank, push the slide in again, remove the magazine and complete the
crank movement.
To change over to a different film type, you can switch two loaded magazines at any time and irrespective of
the position of the film counter on either magazine. Since pulling out the slide at the same time double locks the
magazine on the camera, it is best to close the magazine with the slide only when it is to be removed.
Loading the Spare Magazine
Separate magazines are supplied with a protective cover.
This is always used on the free magazine. To fit the
magazine to the protective cover or to detach it, proceed
as with the camera (6).
When the magazine is off the camera it is closed light-
tight by the slide; you can load it in the same way as a
magazine on the camera (releasing the magazine knob --
> page 7 7).
If you have pulled out the slide of a spare empty
magazine and accidentally moved the outer cog wheel of
the magazine, the slide will not go in fully. Remedy: half
pull out the slide (7), turn the cog wheel in the direction
of the arrow (8) until it locks, and push back the slide.
Important note: To ensure reliable operation of the film
feeler system, the film insert of the magazine must not be
interchanged. Always check that the serial number of the
magazine (on the mating surface for the camera) is the
same as that on the film insert (at the left hand side).View original page 20Page 21 · Read text
www.butkus.us Tables and Data Summaries Interchangeable Lenses + Diaphragm Systems: A--Fully automatic spring-loaded diaphragm. The iris is always fully open. When you release, it closes down to the pre-selected aperture just for the duration of the exposure. V -- Pre-selector aperture. The diaphragm closes down to the pre-selected value when you rotate the setting ring to its stop. E -- Geometric aperture scale, shown in relative exposure factors. With the Luminar lenses the scale starts at 1 for the full aperture engraved on the lens; each succeeding value corresponds to an exposure interval of one lens stop. The factors indicated facilitate the calculation of the exposure increase over the exposure at full aperture. The Mirotar mirror optical system has no diaphragm and is always used at its full aperture of f/5.6. Here the exposure may be controlled by altering the shutter speeds or if necessary by fitting special neutral density filters. * With diaphragm shutter * Luminar lenses: The data apply in every ease to the Luminar without adapter. The Luminar lenses 16, 25, 40, 63 mm use the same adapter with microscope thread.View original page 21
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