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Zenit Kodak lenses and shutters — part 2 Reference guide
Reference guide for Zenit Kodak lenses and shutters — part 2. 36 pages in English. Read the original PDF, download or print a copy without registration.
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. EXPOSURE
Exposuremeans: to exposethe film in your camer,ato light.
The dose of light any film needsto produce the right sort of
image depends on how sensitivethat film is to light. A fast
film is more sensitivethan a slow film.
Once your choice of film is settled,the basic condition of
exposureis settled with it. You are now left with the proble-m
of- scaling the light you find in front of your camerato the
amount your film needs.
Your job is to judge the light reflected from the subjectyou
arc about to photograph. Your grandfather as an amateur
photographer used to take into account his geographical
position,-thetime of year,the hour of the {uy,th9 stateof the
iky as well as the tone of the subject itself, qnd by so adding
one thing to another size up the light reflected from the
subject.The experiencedprofessional,of course,hardly ever
worked that way, He just had a look and he knew.
Today an exposuremeter does the same for any photo-
grapher.It takes a look, it measuresthe light and it lets you
know.
In fact, it does more than that. It translatesthe light mea'
sured straight into terms of photographicexposure.It does
so by presentingyou with the choiceof aperturenumbersand
shutterspeedssortingthem out in pairs.
Aperture and Speed
The aperture number or /-stop controls the amount of light
allowed to enter through the lens. These numbers run in a
series: 1.4-2-2.8-4-5.6-8-ll-16-22; each higher stop
number lets through just half the light of the next lower
number (next largerstop).
The shutter speedcontrols the length of time for which the
lens is kept open to light. Shutter speed figures represent
fractionsof a second:30 = l/30 second,500= 1/500 second. 'how The actual exposureis a product ot' thesetwo: much' 'howand long'. A iarge amount of light striking the film for
a short time may produce an image similar to that produced
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by a small amount of light striking the film for l long time.
Hence the free choice from a seriesof balanced aperture-
shutter combinationsoffered by your exposuremeter; more
or less open aperturespaired with more or lessquick shutter
speedsand more or less stoppeddown aperturespaired with
more or lessslow shutter sPeeds.
They all are right and yet one is better than the other.
Why should it be so?
Beiause both the aperture and the shutter alsohave second-
ary functions and effects.
The aperture not only controls the amount of light that is
allowedio passthe lens - it also has a bearing on how much
of the imagewillbe sharp.
The shutter, in controlling the length of time for which the
light strikesthe film, will inevitably record any movement that
hippened during that time as a slight or greaterblur.
So you are left with three things to think of,
How fast is the action you want to catch?
How much of the scenein front of the lens has to be sharp?
Is the light good enough for either?
If there is fast action you have to choose and pre-set an
appropriately fast shutter speed (pagt 45) and then pair it
with the stop which is right by your meter.
If the r..n. is to be sharp from a point close to the lens to
some other point well away from it you- $991d choose the
stop that rvili yield the necessarydepth-of-field (pug. 46) and
then pair it with the shutter speedagreedby your meter'
If the light is very poor, the chancesare that you will not be
able to cope with either extremely fast or particularly deep
subjects.Ybt your choice in putting shutterspeedof depth-of-
fiel-d first should still be governed by what you value most
about the picture you proposeto take.
Exposurb nowadays is no problem at all. You can arrive at
the right exposureby guessingit or measuringit. But to hit it
off in such a way that it will produce the picture you want is
still a matter of intelligentjudgement.
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i'Time ExPowres
When the light is very weak, especiallywhen you have to use
a small stop, even the slowest shutter speedmay be too short.
In that case,you needtime exposures.Set the shutter to B and
press the releasebutton. The shutter now remainsopen for
any length of time until you let go of the releasebutton.
For such time exposuresthe cameramust be mounted on
firm support such as a tripod. It is best to releasethe shutter
with ttre-help of a cable releaseto avoid shaking the camera-
This releasescrewsinto the centre of the releasebutton on
the camera.
For long time exposures,where the shutteris to remainopen
for longer than you can convenientlykeep the releasedepress'
ed, use a cable releasewith a lock. To make the exposure,set
the shutter to B, pressthe cablereleaseplungerwith the lock'
ing plate lifted. The shutter will now remain open until the
lo-king plate is depressed.On cable releaseswith locking
screws,tighten the screwon pressingthe plunger and undo the
screwto close the shutter.
(Istng an Exposure Meter (seeillustrations page 49)
To get the best results an exposuremeter has to be used
intelligently.This may look like a contradiction,sincewe have
already said that it is an accuratelight measuringinstrument.
But light from all parts of the subject, highlight, shadowsand
middle tones, falls on the meter, so the readingit givesus is an
averageone for the whole subjectarea.
Meters, separate,built in, or through-theJens,are scaledto
suit typically averagesubjects,i.e. subjectswith averageareas
of light, dark and middle tones. So if you point the meter at
a subject of this kind, the exposurereading will be correct.
But if the subject is not average- if there are large high-
light areasand little shadow, or large shadow areaswith few
highlights - then you have to modify the exposurereading
to obtain the best results.
So there is more to usinga meter than just pointing it at the
subject and acceptingwithout question the readingindicated.
Even with the models with built in meter which measures
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only the field actually reproducedon the film, one might want
to make an individual allowance,for example,in caseswhere
the main subject is very much darker than all its surroundings.
The usual method of using a meter is to point it directly at
the subject. This gives the correct exposurereadingprovided
the subject has an averagemixture of highlights, shadowsand
middle tones. But if there is a largebright area,or a largedark
area, the best method is to go near to the main subjectand
take a close-upreading. For example, if the subject is a figure
againsta white or dark background,by going closeryou will
reduce the amount of background affecting the meter and
therefore get a reading in terms of a more averagesubject,
which is what you want.
For some subjectsyou can take a reading from really close
up, aiming the meter at the part of the subjectthat you want
to make sure has optimum exposure. For instance,many
photographerstake a close-upreading of the sitter's face in
portraiture; out of doors you can take the readingfrom the
back of your hand insteadof goingup to the subject.
If you cannot go closeup to a subjectthat needsa close-up
reading,then try to find somethingnear at hand that is similar
in tone to the subject and on which the light falls from the
samedirection; take a readingfrom that.
When taking readingsof generalscenesincludinga good deal
of sky, you have to tilt the meter down slightly to reducethe 'seen'area of sky by the meter. The sky is a bright highlight
and, by tipping the meter down to exclude some of it, the 'average'subjectbecomes in tone range.
Open views, such as distant landscapes,usually have very
light shadows,so you can give a shorter exposurethan the
meter indicates.It is usual to give half the exposure,i.e. use
double the shutter speed,or use one stop smaller.
AGAINST THE LIGHT subjects are extreme cases of
non-averagetone range. The main lighting becomesa very
bright higruightin the field of view, so if you point the meter
straight at the subject, it will indicate too short an exposure
and give you a silhouetteeffect in the final picture.
This is all right if you want a silhouette. But if you want
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correct exposure for the subject, you should either take a
close-up reading, or take a reading from the czurleraposition
and give four to eight times the exposureindicated.
COLOUR FILMS have limited exposurelatitude, so partic-
ularly careful reading is advisable.The meter is used in the
sameway as for black-and-whitefilms.
Becauseof the importance of the highlights,if you are using
a meter from the cameraposition for an against-theJightshot,
it is best to only double the exposuretime (i.e. give it one
stop more) and not multiply it four to eight times as
recommendedfor black-and-whitenegativefilms.
Shutter Speedsand Movement
The actual shutter speedyou need within a seriesof avail-
able aperture-speedcombinationsis governedby considera-
tions of camera steadinessas well as of subject movement.
An unsteadycamerahold resultsin camerashake.Even the
slightest shake will result in inferior definition of the image.
Practicalexperiencegoesto show that 1/125 secis safe,while
you have to hold the cameraparticularly steadywhen using
1160 or ll30 sec. Where lighting conditions make longer
exposuretimes essential,and there is no subject movement,
either support the cameraon a tripod, or on a wall, table etc.
The shutter speedrequiredto arrestmovementdepends,of
course,primarily on the speedwith which the subjectmoves.
Remember,however,that parts of the subject(e.g. the legsof
a runner) may move faster than the subjectas a whole; you
may sometimes have to compromise and show such parts
slightly unsharp.Often that is not a seriousproblem, as slight
blurring - provided the main part of the subject is sharp -
helps to emphasisethe impressionof movement.Other factors
to considerare the distanceof the subject- the farther away,
the lessnoticeablethe movementblur; the focal length of the
lens - a long focuslens in effect bringsthe subjectnearer;and
the direction of the movement.Objectsmovingacrossyour field
of view blur more than if they are approachingor receding.
The most convenientway of allowing for all thesefactorsis
the aid of a simpletable.
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DEPTH.OF.FIELD SCALE
Zenith lenses have a depth-of-field scale engraved on the lens barrel behind the focusing ring. lt has
lines pointing to the distance scale from a set of aperture numbers each side of the focusing,mark.
Each oair of Ines from the same aperture number indicates the nearest and farthest planes of sharp
focus at that aoerture. Thus, with a standard lens set to 5 m, the depth of field extends from 2.3 m
to infinity at f 16 or, at f8, from 3 to l2 m.
The Helios 44 EM for Zenith TTL cameras is fitted with a
manual/auto wheel on the lens mount. The diaphragm closes
down to the pre-set aperture when the lever is moved to M so
that the effect of the shooting aperture on depth of field can
be seen on the focusing ring.
Lenses are changed by unscrewing
from the mount.
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Ap erture and D epth-of- Field
When you focus the Zenith on a given object, the image of
that object will be really sharp on the film. Things nearer or
farther away will be graduallylessand lesssharpuntil they are
noticeablyblurred. The rangeof distancesover which objects
are still acceptably sharp before you do notice the loss of
definition, is known asdepth-of-field.
You can control the extent of this sharpzone by the lens
aperture. As you stop down the lens, the zone of sharpness
grows in both directions;as you open up the lens, its depth
decreases.
You can readthe actualzone of sharpnessat variousapertures
and distancesfrom tables,but in practicethe most convenient
way is to use the depth-of-fieldindicator.This is a specialscale
of aperturenumbersmarked oppositethe distancescale.There
are two sets of such numbers from the largeststop (/2) to the
smallest (fl6) on each side of' the focusing index (the mark
that indicatesthe distanceto which you have set the lens).
At any distancesetting, the distancefiguresoppositeeach
pair of aperture numbers on the depth-of-fieldscalegive the
near and far limits of sharpness.For example,at 3 m you find '8'the two stop values on the scale(/8) oppositea little more
than 2 m and 3 m, so you have a sharpzone from about 2/a m '4'Io 4Yqm. At f4, the distancesoppositethe stop values will
be 23/qm and 33/qm respectively;at fI6 you get a sharpzone
from 1.8 m to 9 m.
You will also notice that the depth-of-field is greater at far
distances than at near ones. At I m and /8 the sharp zone
only coversfrom about 0.5 m to 1.1 m, just l5 cm altogether,
againstI m to the 3 m setting.
Two more points on depth-of-field.First, the depth obtain-
ed dependsalso on the focal length of the lens. Short-focus
lensesyield more depth and long-focuslenseslessdepth. That
is why the alternative lenses of the Zenith have their own
depth-of-field indicator.
Secondly, the sharp zones obtained by the indicator or
tables are based on a somewhatarbitrary assumptionof how
much blurring is acceptable. So depth-of-field data for
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different cameraswith the same lens may not always agree,
and you are also quite safe in rounding off figures obtained
from such data. And if you intend to make really big enlarge-
ments from your negatives,you can use stricter standardsof
sharpnessby simply stopping down the lens by one stop
further than the tablesindicate.
Zone Focusing
With action subjectsand similar occasionswhen you want to
shoot quickly, determiningsharpzonesevenwith the depth of
field indicator wastestoo much time. Thereyou needprepared
settingscovering given near the medium distancerangesthat
you can easilymemoriseand set on the camera.
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. FLASH WITH THE ZENITH
Flash is an efficient light sourcewhere no or insufficient
daylight is availablesuch as at night, indoors,etc. In the flash- 'sun'light you carry your own private with which you can
illuminateyour subjector sceneat any time and place.
THE FLASH BULB is similar to a small electricbulb. How-
ever,when current passesthrough it, it lights up in an intense
flaslr lasting usually about ll40 to 1/60 sec. Each bulb will
only flash once and has to be discardedafterwards.Altern-
atively,flash cubes,which are in effect four bulbs arrangedin
a cube.can be emploved.
The flash bulb ii insertedin a flash gun and the current from
the battery fires the bulb, while a reflector fixed behind the
bulb makessurethat all the light is directedtowardsthe subject.
The shutter speed,providedthat it is slowerthan 1/50 sec
has no effect on exposure,since the flash is shorter than the
exposuretime. With the Zenith, however,the shutter should
be set to l/30 secbecauseonly at that speedis the film totally
uncoveredfor a sufficiently long period for flash pictures to
be evenlyexposedall over.
Popularsize flash bulbs and cubesare now beingmade only
in the blue-tinted variety. These can be used for black-and-
white or colour (negativeor reversal)photography,either as
the solelight sourceor as fill-in lighting by daylight.
ELECTRONIC FLASH UNITS utilise the dischargeof a
high-tension capacitor through a flash tube. The power is
derived from an accumulatoror battery (there are aisomodels
working from the main electricitysupply).An electronicflash
outfit is rather bigger and heavierthan the flash bulb outfit,
the comparativelight output of the largerportableunits equals
that of a small flash bulb and its initial cost higher. On the
other hand, anything from 10,000 to 25,000 flashes are
obtained from one tube. The flashduration is extremelyshort
Qllo0 to l/2000 sec) and will arrestthe fastestmovement.
The cost of an individualexposureis negligible.
Electronic flash is suitable for black-and-white,negative
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F L A S H S Y N C H R O N I S A T I O N
The Zenith has a singie flash socket with a
l e v e r b e l o w t h e s h u t t e r s p e e d k n o b c o n t r o l l i n g
the type of synchronisation. In both cases
l/30 second is the maximum usable shutter
s D e e o .
When not using flash, the synchronisation ,u selector may bJ set in either the X or M
position.
Most flash guns can be fitted directly into the
accessory shoe of the Zenith camera. Alter'
natively, a flash bracket with an accessory
shoe at one end can be fitted to che base of the
came ra.
Using an exposure meter
Using an exposure meter (see page 4l). To take general reflected light..readings with the Zenith
mete-r (/eft), either point it direciliat thb subject or, with outdoor views, direct it slightly downwards
to cut down the amount of light reaching it from the sky.
Wh;;" the subiect differs app-reciably in tone from its surroundings (centre), take a close-up reading
on the subject itself and base the exposure on that.
Wiih "".y'.onrrasry subiects (right),'it is advisable to take separate close-u.p readings of the l.ightest
and.darkest p"rts oi importancelThe actual exposure should then be based on the mean of the two
reao r ngs,
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I colour film and for daylight type reversal colour films. It can alsobe used for fill-in lighting by daylight.
How to UseFlash
The Zenith shutter is internally synchronisedfor use with
flash bulbs and electronic flash. A standard 3 mm coaxial
socket is fitted to the front of the catneratop plate to accept
the cable from the flash gun. The flash unit itself is attached
to the accessoryshoeor alternativelyto a flashbracketwhich,
in turn, is screwedto the tripod bush of the camera.The latter
is generally pref'erable.It prevents direct reflections back
into the carneralens which can, in portraiture, produce recl
highlightsin the eyes.This, in fact, is a reflectionof the flash
from the eye'sretina.
As shutter speeduse l/30 seconly and set the flash synchro-
nisation lever below the shutter dial to X when working with
I electronicThe transportflash andleverM ofwhentheusingcafileraflashhasbulbsto beandfullycubes.wound on
before a flash bulb is insertedinto a flash gun which is con-
nectedto the camera.
Exposure Guide Numbers
There is a convenientway of working out exposureswith
flash and this is by meansof a guide nutnber.When you buy
flash bulbs you will always find the guide number in meters
and in feet for any speedof film printed on the packet.
To find the correct apertureto use,divide this guidenumber
by the distancebetweentheflash and the subject.For instance,
supposeyou find that the guide number of the bulb with theIt film in use is 160. If you then want to take a photographat a
distanceof l0 ft from the subject,divide 160 by 10 = 16.
Therefore, the correct aperture to use is 16. Alternativelyif
you want to use an aperture of /8 for any reason,then the
correct flash distanceis 160 + 8 = 20. So the flash must be
20 ft from the subject.
On electronicflash units a table or disc will be found giving
the correct aperture to choose for any film speedat various
distances,againin metresand feet.
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Synchro-Sunlight
If you want to use flash in conjunction with daylight, e.g.
to lighten deep shadows,the exposuretime is taken for the
sunlit side of the subject and the apertureused accordingto
this reading. Now take the flash guide number for the shutter
speedpre-selected,double it and divide it by the apertureto
be used.The resultis the flash-to-subjectdistancefor a normal
fill-in-light.With daylight colour film, you ian use flashbulbs
or electronicflash.
Example: Exposuremeter readingat ll30 sec- /16.
Guide number for the flash at 1/30 sec- 120.
The guidenumberdoubled is 240.
Divide240by 16 - 15.
That means that the flash gun should be 15 ft from the
subject. It is advisableto use an extension cable between
camera and flash gun. This enablesyou to place the flash
farther away from or closer to the subject than the carnera.
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U SING ALTERN ATIVE LEN SES
The field of view coveredby the standardlens is ideal for
the majority of subjects. Sometimes,though, a-greater or
;;;r;;d' ii.io of vie''w has distinct advantages'The Zenith
carnerashave an interchangeablelens mount permitting u-se
oi utt.tnutive focal length lJnsesfor such occasions.Sincethe
mid-1960'sthe univerlal 42 mm lens thread has been used,
;fi; early Zenith 3 m, on B camerashad a 3g mm thread
mount.
Wide-Angle' Lens
;-;iffi-angle lensis a lens of shorterfocal length. It seesand
reproducesmore of the subject in front of the camerathan
does- -Suchthe standardlens.
a wide-anglelens had definite advantagesin cases
*fpr. the practici'ble distancebetween camera and subject
is timitra und th. standardlens cannot record the whole of
i"nr-t"Ui..i. Tn. wide-angle_lens,is therefore, essentialfor
architecluralphotographyand interiors' you to go have a near even of- imige, To get a laige -subje9t, ti distant more to dwarf tend then Neir objects t;it. really"close
picture showspronouncedperspective li onrr'and the resulting
riir.tr. In this way, the wide-anglelens is used to emphasise
perspective.' ^ r r In uiew of its short focal length, the depth-of-fieldcoversa
particularly wide zone, even at full aperture.It can, the_re-
i;;;, b. employedwith advantageas a quick-shootinglens for
g.n.tul purpor-.swhere accuratefocusing or distance-setting
ivould be lnconvenient(e.g.through insufficienttime)'
zenith wide-anglelensesaie listed in the lens table. wide-
anglelensesmadJ for a whole rangeof cam-eras,.includingth9
Pra'ktica,Fujica and Cosina,will fit the modern 42mm thread
Zenith too.-But note that lenseswith automatic diaphragms,
but without manual 0verride.cannotbe usedon the E or B.
TelephotograPhY
A tele lini on the other hand has a smaller angle of view
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LENSES
Lenses available for the Zenith cover t.he range of focal lengths from 29 to ll00 mm with angles of
view from 75" to 250". The arrowed lines above compare ihe angles of view (right) for "".f, toc"t
length (/eft).
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than the standardlens. It is of longer l-ocallength, and repro-
a;;t less of the subject in froni of the camera than the
standardlens does,but on a largerscale'
Such a lens is'particularly suitable for subjects that are
difficult to approaih closely,such as animals,children, archi-
ir.turui detaili, sports evenis,etc. In photographingdistant
views without n.ui fot.ground, it brings the subjectnearer.It
alsopermits a greatercamera-to-subjectdistanceinportraiture,
producing u *o* pleasingand subduedperspective.At the
ffi;-i;?, its lesseidepth-of-fieldconcentratesdefinition on
ihe portrait, avoidingu iharp backgroundwhich would detract
from-'z:;;ilithe main object.
i;t f*ur lenses are listed in the lens table. Tele
f.nt* *ude For the many other cameraswill fit the 42 mm
tnieuO Zen{th too, but lenseswith autornatic diaphragmswill
not work on the E or B unlessthey have a manual diaphragm
switch.
Zoom Lenses
A zoom lensis so constructedthat its focal length is infinite-- rv-uuiiuurewithin statedlimits. It does away with the necessity
iot .fr*ging the lens when a different focal length is required
and facifitatesexact framing of the subject.Once focused,the
zoom lensesremain in sharp focus at all settingsof the zoom
control.
The zoom lens doesnot, howeveqoutmodelensesof a fixed
focal length becauseits definition,-covering[onuluDunrrypower,ffiffincontrast'nnt lvlttlt tlilfl, 0t tiltng$$ [00q lnfl Furthermore, the ,oo1n l.n, lenses. length focal fixed of the
l, bulky, heavy and cJstly, alq generally of a less wide maxi'
mum aperturethan fixed focal length lenses.'.
whil; there is no zoom lens in the Zenith range, there are
nurrrour makes on the market with the standard 42 mm
screw thread which will suit the Zenith
Tele Converters
A tele converter fitted between the lens and the body of the
Zenith increasesthe focal length of the lens used. There are
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www.orphancameras.com 2x, 3x and variable 2 to 3x converters.The 2x converter doublesthe focal length of the lens on which is is used,e.g.a 135 mm lens becomes270 mm focal length; the 3x converter treblesthe focal lbngth and the variable2-3x modelspermits variationsbetween2 and 3 times. The advantageof the tele converteris its small dimensions, cheapnessand lightness; the disadvantagesinclude the reduc- tion in effective aperture and the loss of definition which, while good, is not up to the standardof the unaided lens. Lens Changing To removea lens, simply unscrewit from the body. To insert a lens, screwit into the lens apertureof the camerabody until it comesto a definite stop without usingforce. Focusing ond D epth-of-Field Focusingwith a wide-angleor telephoto lens is the same as when using a standard lens. The reflex screenenablesthe irnageto be focused accurately. At the same time, the reflex screenshowsthe exact field of view of the particularlensused. There is no parallax errot nor are supplementaryfinders required. The alternativelenseshave their own depth-of-fieldindicator. This works in the sameway aswith the standardlens. Aperture Control System The f2 Helios lens of the Zenith B and E camerasused the pre-setaperturesystem.So do variousother lensesas indicated in the lens table below. It consistsof two control rings;the front ring pre-setsthe required aperture,but does not stop down the lens. You therefore focus and view the imageat full aperture.Immediately before the exposureyou turn the rear ring as far as it will go to stop down the lens to its pre-set aperture.This you can do by touch alone without taking the eye from the finder. After the exposure,simply turn the rear ring back againto open the lens to full aperture. The INDUSTAR /3.5 50 mm of the ZeniIh B and E uses manual apertu selectionwithout any speedup or simplifyingView original page 18
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mechanism.Here one focusesbest with full apertureand after-
wards one stops down the lens normally to the diaphragm
openingrequired.
The Zenith EM and TTL calnerasuse lenseswith automatic
aperture.You pre-setthe required apertureon the rear ring of
the lens mount by turning the aperture selectedto the index
mark. The aperture remains fully open for focusing and view-
ing so as to obtain minimum depth-of-field and maximum
brightness.When you releasethe shutter, the aperture stops
down to the pre-setfigure and re-opensautomaticallyto full
aperture immediately after the exposure.Pie-setand directly
manual lenseswork in their normal way on these carneras.
Lensesfor Zenith
In addition to the lenseslisted on page 56 a wide rangeof
other makes can be used on Zenith with the 42 x I mm'universal' thread.Automatic diaphragmlenses,though,cannot
be used on the Zenith B or E unless thev have a manual-
diaphragmsettingswitch.
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CLOSE-UPSWITH THE ZENITH
Thesingte.lensreflexcameraisparticularlysuitablefor *1th-^:upllt*:1111 wtten yor\iir,q photogrffictose-up etc'' the preflse bellows' extension iubtt,i;;;d'..iensioir
area covered as *rfi * ?nr-eia.t definition can be controlled
on the reflex fotutit-.ivg ttittn' Parallax' which makel close'up
work with alm"rt other type of camera at least very
difficult, or necessitites extensive auxiiiary attachments,
ri*otv""t"h; doesnot exist-i;;; in-l";"sesthe Zen\th calneras' ;;J;;; down to approxipa]9lvJ'9'in r0x6thin' approiim.tttry a fielaof distan;;;;;;;t at thisand lenses, close.up th.e.subject, still closer.to pt,otog,upt''To take
txttnti"i, tubei oi extensionbellows can be used'
Aose'(JP Lenses
For working at distancesbelow the shortestdistancesetting
oitt" t".io.i r.nt, ti;ttlup lensesmay b-e-usgd'Two lenses'
. *l"ii"pt.i anOa i3 diopter.ate suggested.It is conrrenientto
eet these lensesin tuiiuUir diameteihount to screw into the
Tront of the lensmount. . -,
The +2 dioptei supplementarylens allows focusing4 9 t9
lg3/ain, depending dn ttt. setting of the cameralens. The +3
Ai"ptrt'f*r'fo.urJt fromTlL to 13'1/8 in' -
The field .ou.r.o,-irr. distance at which the lens has to be
*i^;;'ii; a;ililon obtained,_canbe observedon the reflex for guide values' 56 taUleon page gl.ss. Ste *i"L"O- working with is required.when tiri. in .*p"r* No change
close-uplenses.To'obtain the best difinition, it is advisableto
use a medium aPerture'
Extension Tubes r ,
Forverycloserangewotextensiontubescanbeused.They
cover a subject to ."*ttu distanceof approxiqa^tely 15 in to
2rhin.There ut. t*Gntion tubesof 7,i4 and 28mm length'
They can be urro-inaiuidually or combined to allow photo- ti" rto* ipproximatelv2'7 x 4 in to 1 x ii.iitiig-a-zuupct llh in (= naturalsize).The expozuregivenby the uncoupled
58View original page 21Page 22 · Read text
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III meter of Zenith E and EM or separate-of meter has to be increased
p.roportionally to the degree lens extension and is from about l.8x to 4x.
ReversingRing
To obtain critical definition when-magnifying the subject
directly l_.5 times or more on the ntn, Ttre'Ja-ndardZenith
lens should be used reversed(front to back). itrllnr.s have
been designedand corrected ior use in teversedposition for
ultra cljlse-up work. To use the lens with its rio'nt pointing
to the film a reversingring is employed which ,.r.ru, into the
filter thread of the lens fo-r conniction to the eitension rings or bellowsattachment.
BellowsAttachment
The bellows attachment offers a continuously variableIIIIIIIII extensionfrom about 35 mm to about 150 mm. It is connect-
ed betweencanera body and rens.with the-si.;a;;e irn, uni
shortest extension, a subject size of .pptoxi*uiafi x r cm-,
and longgstextensionof-about 0.g x 1'.2"^ is coveied,gilindII scalesof .reproduction from about 0.9 to 2.g ui *Jrr.in[
distancesbetween lens and subject between uuoui z.s and
4 cm' The exposure.ci;enby a separatemeter or the uncoupled
exposure meter oI zenith E and EM has to be increised
proportionally to the degreeof extensionthat is from 4.g to l2x.
A Transparencycopying Attachment can be connected to .,
the ctose-upbellows for copying negativesand transparencies.
Photomicrography
An intermediate piece photomicrographyis available -for
connectingto the camerabodyon one end undioit, micro_
fope eyep-ieceat the other. The taking lens is removed. TheIIIII image of the microscope lens is visible-on th; .*.r. reflex screenfor focusing.
Copying Stand
A baseboardwith column and holding arm can be obtained
59
"."-*.!View original page 22Page 24 · Read text
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againstthe light photography. kns hoods are availablefor all
lenses.lrns caps, rear lens caps and body caps protect and
keep lens and camerabody dustfreewhen handled or stored
separately.
Spectaclewearersmay find it helpful to insert a 16 mm
diameterglasscorrespondingto their prescrip{ioninto the view-
finder eyepieceand which is held in position by its retaining
ring. This will enablethem to work without spectacles.
6r
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+:;*a-:a:.: ':a' :':iView original page 24From the M. Butkus archive. Original publisher and archive notices are retained.
Check the model and edition against your equipment.
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