Film cameras
Seneca Box Scout User manual
User manual for Seneca Box Scout. 20 pages in English. Read the original PDF, download or print a copy without registration.
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Document details
- Brand
- Seneca
- Model / document
- Seneca Box Scout
- Document type
- User manual
- Language
- English
- Pages
- 20
- File size
- 1.4 MB
- Category
- Film cameras
- Document date
- Not specified in catalog
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Page 3 · Read text
No. 2 Box Scout
Indicator for operating the shutter is located
at side of Camera.
Slide or indicator in front of Camera. above
the lens, is ad.justable for "Time,' and (,Instantane-
ous" or snapshot exposures. When this slide is at
bottom of opening, shutter is set for ,,Time,, ex-
posures; whe_n it is at top of opening, shutter is
set for snapshots.
2 Box Scout has one diaphragm opening in , iIo slrutter.
Nos. 2A and 3 tsox Scouts
Indicator for operating the shutter is located
at side of Camera,
I'hese Carnertrs have tlrree diaphraEm openinEs
in slrutter, nirrrrely:Large-Lcv€r(No. f6); Mediuin (N"o.'dia- 32); Small (\o. -6t). fof ad.iusting
plrrtrgrn openings is located at top of Camera-.
Slide or indicator in front 6f Camera, above
the lens, is adjustable for ,,Time,, and ,,fnstanta-
neous" or snapshot exposnr.es. When this slide is
at bottorn of opening, shuttcr is set for ,,Time"
exposures; when it is at top of opening, shutter is
set for snapshots.
Nos. 2C and 3A Box Scouts
Indica_tor for operating the shutter is the lower -
levt,r at the side oi Carnera.
t hese Cameras have three diaphraqm oneninss
in..shutter. namely: Large-f,ever(No. lo), frediuin 1N-o.'di,r_:JJ), Snrall (.No. 6a). for'ad,iusting
p_hlagrn openings is upper. lever located at s-ide of('irnrera.
Indicator or slide in front of Camera, above
the lens, is adjustable for ,.l.ime" and ,,Instantane_
ous" exposures. When this slide is at bottom of
shutter is set for ..Time" exposures; when!.p9ning_,
it is at top of opening, shutter is sct for snapshots.
3View original page 3Page 4 · Read text
Before Loading
Before plaeing a roll of film in the Camera, re-
move the inner p-art (this is called the film cham-
ber) from the Camera and see what takes placg
when the various indicators or levers are moved.
Examine the shutter for the diaphragm openings;
look for the slide which tells how to change the
Camera from snapshots to time exposures; then
push the shutter indicator and see ho'v it works
?or both snapshots and time exposures. (The de-
scription on page 3 rvill give the exact I rcation of
the various indicators. )
Although the Camera may be loaded in direct
sunshine, i1 is safer to perf orm this part in sub-
dued light.-a Sufrcient light wilJt pass through tlt"
lens in small fraction of a second to change the
sensitized surface. In the same amount of time a
ray of sunshine may penetrate the loosened w-1ap-
pirg and destroy the result of much patient effort.
Again we say it-read the directions carefully
and investigate the use of every part bef ore the
film is loaded in the Camera. Finally, see that the
shutter is closed before loading.
Loading
the
Camera
I-Place the
camera upo1l
a t a b l e a n d
pull back the
c l i p s u p o n
einher corner.
See Fig. I.
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slide the other elip toward the front of camera.
( rhe'e are tr,vo clips- on Nos. zc, g and BA sizes.)
I l-Remove the film chamber at the side by'l pulling out upon the u'inding I."y. See Fig. II.
Fis. II
III-Place the empty spool at the winding k"y,
nraking sure to ad.fust tfre^slot of the spool {o the
flange of the rvinding key.
Fis. Irf
5View original page 5Page 6 · Read text
IV-Insert the film cartridge in the now ernptv
cornpartment. See Fig. III.
V-Break the gummed sticker around the cart-
ridge and wind the black paper around the back
of the film chamber, taking care that the printing
on the protecting paper appears on the outside.
If the printing does not appear on the outside, re-
verse the loaded cartridge or the sensitized sur-
face rvill be turned away from the lens, making
pictures impossible. In threading the paper through
the slot of the empty spool, be careful that it is
started perfectly strzLight. Should this be neglect-
ed, the film will run over the flanges of the spool
and sive considerable trouble. Turn the windinq
key iivo or three times to bind the fiIm upon tlrE
spool.
VI-Lift the film chamber across the shorter
distance and insert it in the outer box rvith a dip
to the right. This draws the paper tight trround
the corners and allows the film chamber to drop
into position. Replace the catches in their original
i positions so as to lock film chamber securely.
VII-Turn the winding key until a hand ap-
pears in the ruby v'indow. A few rnore turns will
bring No. I into the center of the window, at
which time the film is in position for tal<ing the
first picture. After taking first picture, then turn
winding key until "2" appears in the ruby window,
etc., until I'ou have used up the entire roll of fill.
' Making the Exposure
The Scout Camera is always ready to take pic-
tures of ob.fects six feet or more away. It is un-
necessary to make any adjustments; no focusing
is required.
To take a vertieal picture, aim the Camera at
the object and look dor'vn into the view finder.
6
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'I'he irnage shorvs those objects included in the pic-
ture.
Tlo take a horizontal picture, turn the Camera
over on the side and proceed the same as for a
vertical picture.
For snapshots, see that the indicator or slide in
front of Camera, directly over the lens, is at the
top of opening. One operation of shutter release
lever is necessary for snapshots.
For time exposures, see that the indicator or
slide in front of Camera, directly over the lens, is
at the bottom of opening. One operation of the
shutter lever opens the shutter, and then after
giving sufficient time to the exposure, push the
Iever again to close the shutter.
The largest diaphragm opening (No. 16) is
uped for all snapshots and these must be made in
#- bright light with the sun falling directly on the
object to be photographed; otherwise, you will not
get a fully exposed negative. The medium open-
ing (No. 32) is used when photographing an ob-
je-t on the water and you 'wistr an instaitaneous
or- snapshot exposure. Do not use this opening to
tal<e an instantaneous exposure of a landscape or
a portrait. The smallest opening (No. 6a) is never
used for snapshots; use it for time exposures, such
as interiors or outdoor work whenevei the Camera
can be rested on a table or some stationary ob,fect.
Little aid can be given to the beginner in re-
gard to the proper exposure, excepting to say that
a portrait ordinarily requires an exposure-three
times as long as a laldscape, because the subject
o_r group-is close to the Camera. When the sky is
cloudy, the exposure needed is about three tiines
a5 lgng as when the sun is shining. Unless it is
shining-brightly, an instantaneous o1 snapshot pic-
ture will be under-exposed.View original page 7Page 8 · Read text
When taking a snapshot, it is advisable, when-
ever practicable, to rest the Camera on solnething
solid. Amateur photographers sometimes think
that they need only to press the shutter lever, but
the practice of the more expert is to rest the Cam-
era on something when.making snapshots. If the
Camera is moved while the picture is being taken,
it is very apt to produce a blurred picture.
The following table is figured for indoor time
exposures made between the hours of 10:00 A. M.
and 3:00 E. M., using the largest diaphragm open-
ing. If the medium opening (No. 32) is used,
dolrble the length of time; if the smallest opening
(No. 64) is used, give four times the exposure.
White W'alls and More Than One Window
Bright sunlight outside. ... 4 seconds
H a z y s u n . . - . . . . . . . . 1 0 < s , I '
'irCloudy bright .... . .20 "
C l o u d y d u l l . . . . . . . . 4 0 ' (
White Walls and Only One Window
B r i g h t s u n l i g h t o u t s i d e . . . . 6 s e c o n d s
H a z y s u n . . . . . . . . . . 1 5 " ,
Cloudv bright . .. .. .30 '( ( (C l o u d y d u l l . . . . . . . . 6 0
Medium Colored \il'alls and Hangings and
More Than One Window
B r i g h t s u n l i g h t o u t s i d e . . . . 8 s e c o n d s
H a z y s u n . . . . . . . . . , 2 0 "
Cloudy bright .. .. . .40 s(
C l o u d y d u l l . . . . . . . . 8 0 "
Medium Colored \il'alls and Hangings and
OnIy One W-indow
Bright sunlight outside . . . .12 seconds ( (H a z y s u n . . . . . . . . . . 3 0
Cloudy bright .. . . . .60 "
C l o u d y d u l l . . . . . . . r 2 0 ' 3
;
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Dark Colored Walls and Hangings and
More Than One Window
Bright sunlight outside. . . .20 seeonds
H a i y s u n . . l . . . . . . . 4 0 s (
Cloudy bright .. . ...80 ..
Cloudy dull.. ..2 minutes, 40 ..
Dark Colored Walls and Hangings and
Only One Window
Bright sunlight outside. .,. .40 seeonds
H a i y s u n . . I . . . . . . . 8 0 s .
Clou{y b_right . .2 minutes, 40 's
Cloudy dull.. ..5 minutes, 20 ..
! The lens is carefully corrected. to make-ana
go-od picture but it is not designed to mak"
enfargement much larger than fbur or five times 'ne original size of the picture. It is also *"nrl
ated for ordinary light^ conditions. fake snip_
shots from ten uitil, fwo-thirty in the wi"i"" uria
from nine until four-thirty in the summer when
the. object is _in bright sunshine. Turn your back
to the srr1-flep'f pbint the camera at it. When
the light gets weak^er, make time exposures.
Removing the Film
I-After making all .the_exposures on the roll,
keJ'until all the paper is *;;pp"d 9l_rl",lindingaround the exposed film.
ff-Remove the film chamber as instructed forloading and take out the exposed roll. I
III-Use the gummed sticker in the now
empty spool to keep the exposed roll tighily
IV-Do not twist-the film on the spool in "oii"a.order
to tighten it; it is likely to rub the 6mulsion and
consequently to spoil your pictures.
V-Place the empty film spool in the Camera,
opposite winding key.
0View original page 9Page 10 · Read text
Vl-Replace the film chamber in the camera
in readiness for use upon the next occasion.
YII-In case you are developing your own pic-
tures, the film is reacly for the dark ioom. If lou
are having your pictures developed and priniecl,
ask your dealer to show you how you may secure
mor_e pleasure frorn the time spent in photographic
l'orl< by doing your o\\'n finishing.
Important
I-Film should be developed as soon as possi-
trle after exposure. This is necessary to obtain the
best results.
II-Make sure the film is rolletl tightly be-
trveen the spool flanges before sealing arnd removal
from camera.
Ill-Examine the lens frequently to see that it
is clean. Ihis can be done b,l' opening the shuttei',
as for time exposures, and rernoving the film cham-
ber (rvhen there is no film in it), holding the cam-
era so that you can look thtough the lens. If the
lens is found to be dirtv, wipe calefully flont ancl
back with a clean soft handlccrchief.
Developing the Film
These directions for developing are not to be
regarded as absolute, but only as general hints
from which the amateur should deviate ert the first
moment he obtains ruore pleasing results. Remem-
ber that the value of any rule in photography- is
gauged by the excellence or mediocrity of the re-
sult secured by follou'ing that rule. If you {ind
another way of getting a better or even the sanre
result, use the new way at once; you ar.e wideniilg
your acquaintance in picture making.
I-Empty the contents of the Seneca M. Q.
tube (both chemicals) into ten ounces of water,
mix as p-er printed directions and place in a tray
irt r our left.
ro
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II-In the center place a tray of clear, cool
water for rinsing
III-AI the riqht set the trav of acid hvno
solution, for rnakin-g which complete directions "a're
given upon the box.
IV-Ilxclude all layq of r,vhite light from the
room and let the ruby light be at l6ast one and
one-half feet from the developing tray.
Developing
I-tlnroll the film and detach the entir.e strip
from the protecting blacl< paper.
II-With one end of the strip in each hand,
held a firm clip, pass it continuously through !y
the developer. In about one minute ihe blaik
between lpaces _the pictures will begin to show.
In about two minutes the images rvili'shor,v some-
what clearlv.
Ill-Continue the development for five or ten
minutes until the contrast lJetween the lisht and
clark parts of the negative has become vErv dis-
tinct or the irnage begins to show on the back of
the fiInr. If some of the negatives, as you holcl
them between your eye and ruby light, ar"e darker
than others. tliey have been for a longer
time, but this difference will "*pos"ibe easilv tal<en cire
o,f in llre printing. It is only n.,.".so.y to rvatch
the degree of contrast
r-Afi"r developiffTil""t"nu-y,rinsethreeorIi four times in the -iaaTe tray of #ut"" Ulf"""-y".i
desired, the exposures may be cut apart JL-I{ and fixcd sr,par,rrtely
Fixing
I-Pass the negatives face- down through the
solution two or thrie times before completel-y sutr-
merging them in the hypo solution.
t tView original page 11Page 12 · Read text
II-If the negatives have not been cut apart,
fold the strip several times without allowing it to
crack at the ends. Press these down so that the
solution l'ill reach all parts of the film. Two or
three minutes after the last trace of milkiness has
disappeared, it is safe to admit white light to the
room. Allow the negatives to remain in the hypo
solution for ten minutes longer.
III-Remove the negatives to running water
and alloq' them to remain there for an hour. In
case running water is not available, change the
water five times the first ten minutes, moving the
negatives occasionally. Then allow them to soak
foi an hour. If desired, the water may be changed
four or five times during a half hour of washing.
It is essential that the negatives be thoroughly
washed.
IV--Suspend the wet negatives in such a way
that neither side rvill come in contact with any-
thing while drying. The Seneca Film Clip will be
found to be very convenient for this purpose as
well as for handling the fihns while developing.
Defects in Negatives
Veiled Whites or Fog
Film handled too close to ruby light.
Exposed to rays of white light.
Muddy Effects
Exhausted developer.
Forcing under-exposed negatives in develop-
ment. 'l'oo lvarm a developing solution.
Irregular Light Spot,s
Llneven development due to failure to keep all
parts of the negative evenly moistened dur-
ing development.
Uneven immersion in the developing solution.
' Over-exposure.
Air bells upon the film during development.
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Milky Spots on Negatives
Failure to keep negatives entirely covered bvr fixing bath or iniufficient time for fixing.
Don'ts
Don't start until the chemicals are thoroughly
dissolved.
Don't use a tray for developing if it has pre_
viously been used fbr hypo sotution' or final *i.n-
rng.
Don't use chemicals after their strength is gone.- 4 -bypo solution is exhausted when ,ir*"*_
ous air bells settle around _the_edgeof the tray and remain there. When the develofing solution"loses
its strength, it turns brown.
Don't allow one ray of white light to enter the room.
Don't hold the strip too close to the ruby lamp;
it may cause fog.
Don't let a trace of hypo reach the developer;
spoil the wtrbie solution. Wip" 5loui *^gi"^pnands uponT"y a clean towel errch time aftei taking
them from the hypo solution.
Don't remove the netatives from the hypo until
j!9f thoroughly fixecl. Too long is better than ,u"", roo snort..
Don't blame the materials; read the clirections
over again or ask your dealer.
;*
Making the prints
I-Mix the contents of the Seneca M. e. tube (both chemicals) thoroughly wittr- six o,,n-"", oi
water at about 20" Fahr. and place tray at the left.
II-In the center have a tray of elear, cool-"--
water for rinsing the prints after "devet"pi;;:
l 3View original page 13Page 14 · Read text
III-Dissolve thoroughly the acid hypo accord-
irg to directions upon the box and set the tray to
the right.
IV-Darken the room to semi-darkness. It is
unnecessary to have the room-- c-ompletely dgk
since Senecu pup"" can be handled safely- ten feet
from an ordiniar] gas jet or incandescent bulb.
Printing
I-Place the smooth side of the negative against
the glass of the printing frame, allowing the dull
or pYcture side oi the film to face up.
II-Take one sheet of the der''eloper paper
from its liEht-proof u'rapping- and laf it concave
side clown ilpon tne negaiive. This allows the dull
surface of the negative to come into contact with
the emulsion side of the Paper.
For a negatioe of normal contrast wse Med'ium
Seneca to o|tain be'st results' When the neclatio,e'
is weak or thin', usa lIard' Seneca. If the' dark
places (the lfigh l"i,ghtsof the negatiae) &re- DerY
hnntt nid, thu"contiast betzoeen the I'i'ght q,nd,d'ark
portions oeru mtarkecl, uso Soft Seneca. It is ztery
irnportant t-hat paper zaith the eorrect de.gree of.
contrast be wsed' zi;ith each class of negatiaes. A
sof t or zueak p&per, f or instance, zti,th u contrasty
nasat'iae uill pioilwce the sdnxe result as a con'
tr6,sQ peper zaith a weak negatioe. The Harcl
SeneZa tneets the aoerage requirements of an amcl-
taur rnore closely than any other d,egree of con-
trast.
III-Clamp the back of the p{rnling -forframe into
place and eipose to artificiai light several
seconds.
With an ordi,nary gas ldqht and' a negatizte of
auera,ge d,ensi'ty erposb Senicu Paper- about -eight
,n"onht-touniing bne hundred, tztso hund,recl, etc.
fncandescent electric bulb i's a trifl'e f aster.
t 4
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r-Arter right,hidethe exposed paper"*nor,,3""1;1il:T.,*htuntil the room has bein darkened
enough to permit its being handled safely aEain.
Remove the paper frorn thE frame and immerle it
in the developer with a quick sidewise motion so
that the solution reaches all parts at approximate-
ly the same time. The rooni may ,rori'be liEhted
again to enable the operator to iollow the devel-
oping more closely.
II-Leave the paper in the developer until the
pjc'ure ha9-cope tq more tlran the right lligtrtly- shades of black and.white."q The rvill Ue[in picture-
to appear in about six seconds.
. _ If- the _shadozps are tight-'notor f oggy and, aTtpear
slously, the. puper has biei"brposed.'llong
enough. If , on the other hand,, the shad,ozo, o/n
oery-intense aniL colte- up quickl,y, the enTtosure
l:.as.been too Ref ore rnaki,n{'&ny erposures, ^long.
"cut a, sheet of pq,per i,nto striTts oia ,rnlake tri,ctt eul
p_osu_re.s.You zt:ill-soon fi,nd- ruthat ereposure gi,oes
the best results. Not on[y wlitt this sclue a consi,d,_
elgble amount of paper, but i,t zoill enable you. lo
obtain plen,sin(t results more qui,cktE.
Rinsing
I-At this point take the print from the de_ -
veloper quicl<I;' and rinse in the middle trav.
Fixing
I-Submerge the print in tlre hypo solution and --
the prints do not become matted, since in that caseIt allow it to remain for fifteen miirirtes. See that
the hypq solution will not fix ttrem evenly. Ri;;;
the hands in clean water before touchifig d";;_
oper again, as hypo in the developer causei stains.
II-'Wash the prints in running water for anf hour, taking care again that they"do not becorne
t 5View original page 15Page 16 · Read text
matted. If running water is not available, change
the water ten or twelve times during a half hour.
Be sure that the prints are thoroughly washed.
III-Place the prints face down on either
stretched cheesecloth or a blotter. The time neces-
sary for drying may be shortened by first laying
them upon a piece of clean glass and pressing out
the surplus water. Then dry them upon cheese-
cloth or blotters as before.
Defects in Prints
Foggy Whites
Paper handled in too strong a light.
Paper too old.
Muddy Effects
Forcing development of under-exposed prints.
Exhaustecl devdloper.
Irregular Light Spots
fJneven development due to failure to keep
print fully submerged during development
or to immerse print evenly.
Over-exposure to light.
Stains
Over-development.
Forced development.
Chemically dirty dishes or hands.
Failure to fix a sufficient length of timee ;' ) .
Round White Sp'ots in Clusters
Air bells upon the print after being immersed
in developer. Rub the print lightly with
the finp;er to scatter them.
Oval Dark Spots in Clusters
Air bells upon the print after being immersed
in the fixing bath face downward. Immerse
them face upward and move about to dis-
plaee the bubbles.
l 6
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Don'ts
Don't start until the chemicals are thoroughly
dissolved.
Don't use a. tray for developing if it has been
used for pyro developer, hypo solution or final
washing.
Don't use chemicals after their strength is
gone. A hypo solution is exhausted when numer-
ous air bells settle around the edge of the tray and
remain there. When the developing solution loses
its strength, it turns brown.
Don't have the lights too bright while tlte print
is in the developer; it may cause fog.
Don't fix the prints too long; it has a tendency
to turn them brorvn.
Don't let a trace of hypo reach the developer;
-!re drop may spoil the whole solution. Rinse the
hands in clean water everv time vou tonch the
hypo.
Don't blame the materials if your first results
are not as good as you expected; read the direc-
tions over again or ask your dealer.
Portraits
By the use of the Seneca Por-
trait Attachment, excellent por-
trait pictures can be made at
a distance of three feet from
the subject.
This attachment is a Supple-
mentary lens that is fastened in
an instant to the front of Cam-
era.
Price with instructions
(Mention size of your Camera)
t 7
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Seneca f)eveloping and Printing Outfit
Suitable for the 3l^ x 5r,/" ( post card ) and all
smaller sizes.
//
I
EI, - ,
Each outfit contains:
Two 4x5 Japanned. Travs,
One 4-ounce MeasurinE Glass
9r" 3_5A* I Printing - Frame u,ith glass,
One Candle Larnp,
I'wo M. a. Developing Powders,
9r" package, Y+ pound, Acid Fixing Pow'der,
package_(\Z sheets) 3Y+*51, Se,necaPaper, 9r"
One Seneca Exposure Meter,
Price, complete $2.,00
Seneca Metal Tripod
Madt of heavy gauge seamless brass tubing.
The lower legs, which telescope, are finished ln
polished brass-the upper, in black enamel.
No. 300 (3 sections) $ 2 . 1 0
No. 400 (4 sections) 2 . 75
No. 500 (5 sections) 3.0t)
l 8
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Non- C urli ng-O rtho ch ro matic-H on-Halat io n
The Sen-x roll filrn has a wide exposure latitude
which eliminates the chance of failure from under
or over-exposure. It fits all standard makes of
Cameras.
Get a roll of Sen-x film from your dealer. If
he does not stock it, send us your order with your
dealer's name. We will see that you are .supplied
with it. Then t"y the film. If it is not satisfac-
tg*y to you in everv way, \r'e will refund the pur-
chase price.
Sen-x Film for Box Scouts
No. 360 (-t!o.f 20) for No. Z Box Scout, 2bc per roll, 6 ex. No. 348 for (No. tr6) No. 2A Box BOc Scout, 6 ex. ber roll, tZA) . No. 372 (-{". Box Scout, 45c roll, O ex. g _ ber for No.
No. 390 (-t!o.rB0) for J!o. zC Box Scout, 45c ber roll, 6 ex. No. 3Zi (No. tZE) for No. BA Box Scout, 55c ber roll, 6 ex.
(Be sure to order the film by number. Then
fou are . sure of getting the correct size for your
Camera. )
catalog_ deseribing our eomplete iine of cameras
and, Accessories u,:ill be sent upon request.
Seneca Camera Mfg. Company
ROCHESTER, N. Y.
t l 9View original page 19Page 20 · Read text
Greater Possibilities
with the
SENECA
FOLDING SCOUT
VERY one who owns a Box Scout
Camera is sure to be Pleased with
it and the pictures it t-akes. -. .$"
will alpreciate its many good qualities
and wil feel as though something were
missing when he goes on a trip without it.
The Seneca Folding Scout, equiPPe&
with Rapid Rectilinear lens, is- a Camera
of oreco-ofirrtsreater possibilities.'it We unhesitating-
lva/ to the amateur wli'o
#ish"s to gradubte from the box type of
Camera. For one who wants a more
speedy, compact instrument, the Folding
Scout fills the bill.
This popular model is made in fi-ve
different sires. You will be sure to find
a Foldin'g Scout that rvill fit your taste
and youi\pocketbook.
No. 3A (post card) size Foldilg Scout,
fitted with- Rapid Rectilinear lens and
Deltax or Marvel shutter, $19.50 list.
Full information agd prices on other
sizes will be mailed.upon request.
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Check the model and edition against your equipment.
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