Sewing machines
Singer 15-86 — User manual
User manual for Singer 15-86. 24 pages in English. Read the original PDF, download or print a copy without registration.
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- Brand
- Singer
- Model / document
- Singer 15-86
- Document type
- User manual
- Language
- English
- Pages
- 24
- File size
- 7.5 MB
- Category
- Sewing machines
- Document date
- Not specified in catalog
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Page 2 · Read text
18712
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING SINGER SEWING MACHINES
SINGER OIL FOR YOUR 15-86
SEWING MACHINE
(WITH ATTACHMENTS 120603)
"The Best is the Cheapest OSCILLATING SHUTTLE, FOR FAMILY USE
KNOWINGexperiencefromthe greatmanyimportanceyears
of using GOOD OIL, we put
up an extra quality machine oil.
in cans, especially prepared for ISINGER
sewing machines.
Genuine Singer Needles should be used
in Singer Machines.
These Needles and their Containers
are marked with the
Company's Trade Mark "SIMANCO." 1
Needles in Containers marked
"For Singer Machines'
are not Singer made needles. 2 PARTS OF THE MacHInE StanD
A. BELT GUIDE D. TREADLE
Copyright, U.S. A., 1915, 1920, 1923, 1924, 1928,
1929, 1931, 1932, 1933, 1935 and 1937 B. BanD WHEEL E. BELT SHIFTER
by The Singer Manufacturing Co. C. BanD WHEEL CraNk F. Leg
All Rights Reserved for all Countries G. DRESS GUARDView original page 2Page 3 · Read text
To all whom it may concern:
To Operate the Machine
The placing or renewal of the name
"Singer" (Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.) or any of Raise the presser foot (B) by means of the presser bar lifter (C) to prevent injury to the foot (B) and
the trade marks of The Singer Manufac- feed (A).
turing Company on any machine that has
been repaired, rebuilt, reconditioned, or
altered in any way whatsoever outside a
Singer factory or an authorized Singer
agency is forbidden. SINGER
C
NOTE
Although this book contains general instructions
covering the use of the machine and its attachments,
if you are further interested, you can obtain a copy
of our book "Short Cuts to Home Sewing," which
gives more detailed instructions.
FIG. 2. FRONT VIEW OF THE MAcHIND
A small charge is made for this book as well as
for three other books which comprise the Singer
Sewing Library and are a valuable aid in the home. It is necessary to undeistand the stop motion
The additional books are: "How to Make Dresses." (E) by which the balance wheel (D) can be released
"How to Make Children's Clothes" and "How to when required, thus enabling the operator to become
Make Draperies, Slip Covers, etc." proficient in the use of the treadle, and permitting
You are also invited to take full advantage of the winding of bobbins without running the stitching
mechanism. It also allows the operator to wind Singer Service by calling at any of our shops for
bobbins without removing partially sewn work andpersonal help with your sewing problems. You will
without unthreading the machine. receive courteous and prompt attention and there
is no obligation.View original page 3Page 4 · Read text
4 5
To release the balance wheel (D, Fig. 2), turn the Do not try to help the machine by pulling the
stop motion screw (E, Fig. 2) over toward you. fabric lest you bend the needle. The machine feeds
It will be necessary to hold the balance wheel while the work without assistance.
loosening the stop motion serew. The slide over the bobbin case should be kept
closed when the machine is in operation.
After releasing the balance wheel, place your feet
upon the treadle and with the right hand turn the
balance wheel over toward you. This will start To Remove the Bobbin the band wheel, treadle and pitman, the sewing
mechanism having been disconnected. Turn the balance wheel over toward you until
Continue the motion thus begun by an alternate the thread take-up lever (5, Fig. 10) is raised to
pressure of heel and toe, until a regular and easy
movement is acquired, and the balance wheel kept
in continuous rotation by use of the feet alone.
When you are thoroughly familiar with the treadle
movement, and can restart the machine without
turning the balance wheel in the wrong direction,
tighten the stop motion screw to connect the balance
wheel with the stitching mechanism.
Place a piece of cloth under the presser foot, let
the foot down upon it, and operate the machine in
this way without being threaded, until you have
become accustomed to guiding the material. E10382
To Ensure Perfect Action of the Machine FIg. 3. REMOVINg THE BOBBIN Case
The balance wheel must always turn over toward
the operator.
Do not run the machine with the presser foot its highest position. Draw to the left the slide
resting on the feed without cloth under the presser in the bed of the machine.Reach down with
foot. the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, open the bobbin case latch (A, Fig. 3) and lift out the
Do not run the machine when both bobbin case bobbin case. While the latch remains open, the
and needle are threaded unless there is material bobbin is retained in the bobbin case. Release
under the presser foot. the latch, turn the open end of the bobbin case downward and the bobbin will drop out.View original page 4Page 5 · Read text
6 7
To Wind the Bobbin balance wheel hub, and the latch (B, Fig. 5) will
drop down and hold it. Then operate the treadle
Release the balance wheel (D, Fig. 2) by turning the same as for sewing.
the stop motion screw (E, Fig. 2) over toward you.
It is necessary to hold the balance wheel (D) while
loosening the stop motion screw.
A
SINGER
5/2232
FIg. 5. WINDING THE BOBBIN
FIG. 4. MACHINE THREADED FOR WINDING THE BOBBIN
The end of the thread must be held by the hand
Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle until a few coils are wound and should then be
(A, Fig. 5) and push it up closely against the broken off. When sufficient thread has been wound
shoulder, having the small pin in the spindle enter upon the bobbin, the bobbin winder is automatically
the slot in the side of the bobbin. Put the spool of released from the balance wheel.
thread on the spool pin (1, Fig. 4). Pass the thread
into the thread guide (2, Fig. 4) at the top of the If the pressure of the rubber ring (D, Fig. 5)
face plate, then up into the lower eyelet (3, Fig. 5) against the hub of the balance wheel is insufficient
of the bobbin winder thread guide, into the notch for winding the bobbin, loosen the adjusting serew
(4, Fig. 5) and pass the thread through the slot in (C, Fig. 5) and press the bobbin winder lightly
the left side of the bobbin from the inside. Press until the rubber ring is in contact with the hub of
the bobbin winder pulley (D, Fig. 5) down on the the balance wheel; then tighten the screw.View original page 5Page 6 · Read text
8 9
To Thread the Bobbin Case
To Replace the Bobbin Case
Hold the bobbin
between the thumb After threading, take the bobbin case by the
and forefinger of lateh, holding it between the thumb and forefinger
the right hand, with
the thread on top
drawing from left to
210385 right (see Fig. 6).
Fig. 6
With the left hand hold
the bobbin case as shown in
Fig. 6, the slot in the edge •B
being at the top, and place
the bobbin into the bobbin C case.
E10379
FIG. 9. BOBBIN CASE THREaDED anD REPLACED
E10384
FIg. 7
Then pull the thread of the left hand. Place the bobbin case on the
into the slot in the edge centre stud (B, Fig. 9) of the shuttle body with the
of the bobbin case (see position finger (A, Fig. 9) opposite the notch at the
Fig. 7) and down under top of the shuttle race. Release the latch and press the bobbin case back until the latch catches the
the tension spring into groove near the end of the stud. Allow about three
210386 the slot at the end of inches of thread to hang free from the bobbin case the tension spring (see
Fig. 8 Fig. 8). and close the slide in the bed of the machine.View original page 6Page 7 · Read text
10 11
To Set the Needle 5
Turn the balance wheel over toward you until the
needle bar moves up to its highest point, loosen
the thumb screw (A, Fig. 10) in the needle clamp
and put the needle up into the clamp as far as it
will go, with its flat side toward the right, then
tighten the thumb screw.
Upper Threading
(SEE FIG. 10 ON THE FOLLOWINg PAGE)
Turn the balance wheel over toward you until
the thread take-up lever (5) is raised to its highest
point. Place the spool of thread on the spool pin
at the top of the machine and pass the thread to the left through the thread guide (1) at the rear
of the face plate, down, under and from back to
front between the tension dises (2), up back of the
tension thread guard (3), down into the loop of the
take-upspring (4), up and from back to front through
the hole in the end of the thread take-up lever (5),
down into the eyelet (6) on the face plate, into the
lower wire guide (7), then from left to right
through the eye of the needle (8).
Draw about two inches of thread through the eye
of the needle with which to commence sewing. E17250
FIg. 10. UPPER ThrEaDINgView original page 7Page 8 · Read text
12 13
To Prepare for Sewing
To Remove the Work
With the left hand hold the end of the thread,
leaving it slack from the hand to the needle. Turn Stop the machine with the thread take-up lever
(5, Fig. 10) at its highest point, raise the presser
foot and draw the fabric back and to the left, pass
the threads over the thread cutter (A, Fig. 11) and
pull down lightly to sever them. Leave the ends of
the threads under the presser foot.
To Turn a Corner
Stop the machine when the needle is commencing
its upward stroke. Raise the presser foot and turn
the work as desired, using the needle as a pivot,
then lower the presser foot.
1302
To Regulate the Pressure on the Material
FIG. 11. DRAWINg UP THE BOBBIN TErEaD
For ordinary family sewing, it is seldom necessary
to change the pressure on the material. If sewing the balance wheel over toward you until the needle
fine silk or flimsy material, lighten the pressure by moves down and up again to its highest point, thus
turning the thumb screw (A, Fig. 4) on the top ofcatching the bobbin thread. Draw up the needle the machine over to the left so that it screws up. To thread and the bobbin thread will come up with it
increase the pressure, turn this thumb screw over to through the hole in the throat plate, as shown in the right so that it screws down. The pressure Fig. 11. Lay both threads back under the presser
foot. should be only heavy enough to prevent the material from rising with the needle and to enable the feed to
To Commence Sewing move the work along evenly. The heavier the ma-
terial, the heavier the pressure; the lighter the Place the material beneath the presser foot, material, the lighter the pressure. lower the presser foot and commence to sew, turn-
ing the balance wheel over toward you.View original page 8Page 9 · Read text
14 15
To Regulate the Length of Stitch Tensions
The machine can be adiusted to make from 6 to threadsFor ordinaryshould bestitching,locked inthetheneedlecentre ofandthebobbinthick- 30 stitches to the inch as indicated by the numerals ness of the material, thus:
on the stitch indicator plate (C, Fig. 114).
The number of stitches to the inch that the ma-
chine is set to make is indicated by the number which
is in line with the upper edge of the stitch indicator FIG. 12. PERrEcT StITCH
(B, Fig. 11a). If the tension on the needle thread is too tight, or
if that on the bobbin thread is too loose, the needle
thread will lie straight along the upper surface of
To change the length of stitch, the material, thus:
loosen the thumb screw (A, Fig.
11a) and move it up or down un- Ellis
til the upper edge of the stitch FIG. 13. TIGHT NEEDLE ThrEaD TeNsIoN
indicator (B) is in line with the If the tension on the bobbin thread is too tight or
bottom of the number of the de- if that on the needle thread is too loose, the bobbin
sired length of stitch, then tighten thread will lie straight along the under side of the
material, thus: thumb screw (A).
E12238 A
Fig. 11a FIG. 14. Loose NEEDLE ThrEaD TENsIon
Basting
To Regulate the Tensions
The longest stitch made by the machine, No. 6 The tension on the needle thread should only be
on the stitch indicator plate, is found satisfactory for regulated when the presser foot is down. Having
basting, after loosening the tension on the needle lowered the presser foot, turn the small thumb nut
thread so that the stitches may be easily pulled (B, Fig. 4 at the front of the tension discs over
from the material. toward you to increase the tension. To decrease the
Machine basting is firmer and more even than tension, turn the thumb nut over from you.
that done by hand in addition to being much quicker. theThescrewtension(A, onFig.the7)bobbinin thethreadbobbinis caseregulatedtensionby
spring. To increase the tension, turn the screw over
To Sew Flannel or Bias Seams to the right. To decrease the tension, turn the
screw over to the left.
Use a short stitch and as light a tension as possible
on the needle thread so as to leave the thread loose When the tension on the bobbin thread has been
enough in the seam to allow the goods to stretch changeonce properlyit, as a correctadjustedstitchit iscanseldomusuallynecessarybe obtainedto
if necessary. by varying the tension on the needle thread.View original page 9Page 10 · Read text
16 17
To Oil the Machine On the back of the arm is a round plate or cover,
To ensure easy running, the machine requires oil- fastened by a thumb screw; loosen the serew, turn
the plate upward and fasten by tightening theing and if used continuously, it should be oiled each
screw; turn the balance wheel slowly and oil the
moving parts inside, then turn the cover down and
fasten it as before.
To reach the parts underneath the bed, the
SINGER belt must be thrown off the band wheel on the
machine stand. For this purpose a belt shifter
FIG. 15. OILING POINTS AT THE FRONT OF THE MACHINE
day. With moderate use an occasional oiling is
sufficient. Oil should be applied at each of the FIG. 16. OILING POINTS IN BASE OF MAcHINE
places shown by arrows in Figs. 9, 15 and 16. One
drop of oil at each point is sufficient. Oil holes are (E, Fig. 1) is placed on the front of the band wheel.
provided in the machine for bearings which cannot By pressing the belt shifter lever to the left and
be directly reached. working the treadle meanwhile, the belt is released
Draw to the left the slide in the bed of the ma- and the head can then be turned back on its hinges.
chine and apply a few drops of oil to the shuttle race The places to be oiled are indicated in Fig. 16,
(C, Fig. 9). The slide should then be closed. by arrows pointing to the oil holes and bearings.
Loosen the screw (A, Fig. 15) near the upper end To oil the stand, put a drop of oil on the centres
of the face plate, raise the plate and slip it off over on which the band wheel and treadle work, and
the head of the screw; put one drop of oil into each both ends of the pitman rod which connects the
of the oil holes and joints. treadle with the band wheel.View original page 10Page 11 · Read text
18 19
HINTS
Belt of Foot Power Stand. See that the belt
is not too tight. It should always be tight enough INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING THE
not to slip. If too loose. remove the hook at one
end. shorten the belt and reioin. ATTACHMENTS
Machine Working Heavily. If the machine
runs hard after standing idle for some time, use a
little kerosene in the oiling places, run the machine
rapidly, then wipe clean and oil. The Foot Hemmer
To Avoid Breaking Needles. See that the The Foot Hemmer (Fig. 17)
presser foot or attachments are securely fastened by
is attached to the machine in
the thumb screw. Do not sew heavy seams or very place of the presser foot. Raise thick goods with too fine a needle. A large needle
and thread to correspond should be used on heavy the needle to its highest point,
work (see inside cover page at back of book). loosen the thumb screw which
See that the needle is not bent and avoid pulling clamps the presser foot to the
the material when stitching. presser bar and remove the
presser foot. Attach the Foot
Breaking of Needle Thread. If the needle
thread breaks it may be caused by: Hemmer to the bar, taking
Improper threading. coras care to tighten the screw firmly
Tension being too tight. FIg.17. THE FooT so that the Hemmer will not
The thread being too coarse for size of needle. HEmmer become loose when the machine
The needle being bent, having a blunt point, is running. Turn the balance
or being set incorrectly. wheel slowly to make sure that the needle goes
Breaking of Bobbin Thread. If the bobbin through the centre of the needle hole and that the
thread breaks it may be caused by: lower thread is properly pulled up.
Improper threading of bobbin case.
Tension being too tight. How to Start the Hem at the Very Edge
Skipping of Stitches. The needle may not be
accuratelv set into the needle bar or the needle may How to start the hem at the very edge of the
be blunt or bent.The needle may be too small for material is of great importance in learning to use the
the thread in use.
Hemmer. If the hem is not started at the edge and
Free Instruction for using the machine is gladly the material is pulled bias a perfect hem cannot
given at any Singer Shop. be made.View original page 11Page 12 · Read text
20 21
There are several ways of starting the hem at the Making a Hem with the Foot Hemmer
edge, but the most practical one is as follows:
The same width of material must be kept in the
Hemmer at all times. After placing the correct
0393
FIG. 19. MAkING A HeM WITH THE FOOT HEMMER
width of material in the Hemmer hold it in a
210380 straight line and you will find it quite easy to make
a perfect hem. See Fig. 19.
FIG. 18. STARTINg a HEM AT THE EDGE Making a Hemmed Seam with the Foot Hemmer
The hemmed seam is very practical to use on
1. Fold over about ⅛" of the edge of the material underwear, or in fact on any garment where a straight seam is used and where a small double seam
at the starting point for a distance of about one inch. would be suitable.
2. Place the material in the Hemmer at an angle
leading to the right at a point just beyond the fold.
3. Draw the material toward you through the
Hemmer, as shown in Fig. 18, at the same time
making the second fold at the very edge. Continue
to draw the material through the Hemmer until the
edge is just under the needle. Place the upper and
lower threads together under the Hemmer foot and
assist in starting of the hem by slightly pulling the
threads from the back as the machine is run. E10399
FIG. 20. MAKING A HEMMED SEAMView original page 12Page 13 · Read text
22 23
When using this seam, the garment must first be bringing it up through the slot at the right of the
fitted and the edge of the material trimmed, allowing Hemmer. See Fig. 21. Lower the bar, turn the
for about one-eighth inch seam. The two edges are balance wheel and catch the edge of the lace with
placed together and inserted in the Hemmer in the the needle. Guide the hem with the right hand and
same manner as a single hem. If the material is the lace with the left. Care should be taken not to
bulky, the edge of the upper piece of material mav stretch the lace as it is being fed into the Hemmer.
be placed about one-eighth inch in from the edge of It is not practical to sew gathered lace on with
the lower piece. See Fig. 20. the Foot Hemmer, as the fulled lace catches in the
The free edge of a hemmed seam may be stitched Hemmer slot.
flat to the garment if desired. First open the work
out flat, then place the hem in the scroll of the A very attractive way of applying lace so that the stitching of the hem is not visible is to start the hem Hemmer, which acts as a guide, holding the edge
of the hem in position while it is being stitched. in the regular way, slipping the lace in from the Left as you would the second piece of material when
If the seam is stitched flat to the garment one row making a hemmed seam.
of stitching is visible on the right side.
The hemmed seam may be used on muslin, lawn, ADJUSTABLE HEMMER--Hemmingpercale, organdie or other fine materials where a
narrow seam is desirable. Remove the presser foot and attach the adjustable
Hemming and Sewing on Lace in One Operation hemmer in its place, as shown in Fig. 22. This
Start the hem in the regular way and with the
needle holding the hem in position, raise the presser
ABOA
E5112 FIg. 22
PIg. 21. HemmIng AND SeWING On Lack
hemmer will turn hems from 16 inch to 18 inch wide.
bar sufficiently to allow the edge of the lace to be The adjustment is made by loosening the thumb
slipped in under the Foot Hemmer, at the same time screw on the hemmer and moving the scale to theView original page 13Page 14 · Read text
24 25
right or left until the hem turned is of the desired Attaching the Binder to the Machine
width. Place the cloth under the hemmer and draw Raise the needle to its highest point and remove
the edge toward the left under the scale, as shown the presser foot from the machine by loosening the
in Fig. 22. Draw the edge of the cloth back and
forth until the hem is formed, stopping with the end
under the needle. Lower the presser bar and com-
mence to sew, being careful to so guide cloth as to
keep hemmer full.
AdjustingScrew
ADJUSTABLE HEMMER-Wide Hemming
Outside.
To make a hem more than 18 inch wide, loosen Slot of
Scroll
the thumb screw in the hemmer and move the scale
Binder
Aprón Scroll
Centre Slot 7 E9761
Fig. 24
thumb screw which holds it in place. Compare the
foot of the Binder and the presser foot and you will
ore see that they are attached to the machine in the
same manner. Attach the Binder to the presser bar.
Turn the balance wheel slowly
toward you to make sure that the
Binder is properly attached to the
E8433 bar and that the needle goes through
the centre of the needle hole.
FIG. 23
Inserting the Binding in
the Binder
to the right as far as it will go, then swing it toward
you as shown in Fig. 23 and tighten the thumb Cut the binding to a long point
screw. Fold and crease down a her of the desired to left, as shown. Insert the pointed
width; pass the fold under the extension at the right end in the binder scroll (Fig. 26) FIg. 25
of the hemmer, and the edge into the folder as until the pointed end comes through CUTTING POINT
shown in Fig. 23, and proceed to stitch the hem. the lower end of the scroll. ON BINDINgView original page 14Page 15 · Read text
26 27
Pull the binding through under the presser foot The Adjustment and Operation of
before starting to sew. Note that as the binding the Binder
passes through the scroll of the Binder the edges The edge to be bound should be held well within are turned in.
the centre slot of the scroll (A, Fig. 28). If the
B
E10387
FIg. 26. INSERTINg BINDINg IN BINDER
Binding May be Purchased Cut and Folded A E LOCOS
for Use with the Binder
FIG. 28. ADJUSTINg THE BINDER
Folded bias binding
may be purchased for material is allowed to slip away from the scroll
use with the Binder. when near the needle, the edge will not be caught
in the binding. With a little practice it is quite easy
and colors. Folded to hold the edge in the scroll.
bindings for use with Various materials and conditions require different
the Binder must meas- FIG. 27. INSERT FOLDED adjustments of the Binder to bring the stitching
IN OUT- ure ⅑" in width. The BINDINg
SIDE SLOTNo. 5 width in stand- close to the edge. A wider adjustment of the Binder
ard brands usually measures ½", but it is always is required when binding curves than is necessary
well to be sure of this before purchasing. when binding a straight edge.
Folded binding is inserted in the outside slot of the To adjust the Binder for stitching, loosen screw (B,
Binder, as shown in Fig. 27. The Binder is adjusted Fig. 28) and move scroll to the right for a narrower
and operated in the same manner as when using adjustment and to the left for a wider adjustment.
unfolded binding. One-half inch braid or ribbon may Care should be taken to see that the screw is well
be used in the same manner. tightened after making an adjustment. To become A binding inserted in the outside slot of the Binder
will be turned only once. It is therefore necessary perfectly familiar with the adjustment of the Binder,
to have finished edges when using binding in this slot. practice is necessary.View original page 15Page 16 · Read text
28 29
Binding Outside Curves of the binder and to the left, allowing unfinished
edges to swing naturally into the scroll of the binder.
Practice is required to bind a curved edge properly.
The edge to be bound must be allowed to pass freely Never pull the binding as it feeds through the
Binder, as bias material is very easily stretched and
will be too narrow when it reaches the needle. When
this occurs the edges will not be turned.
When binding a curved edge (see Fig. 29), turn
the material only as fast as the machine sews. It is
not possible to hold the material in the entire length
of the scroll when binding a small curve.
Do not push the material in too fast, as the edge
will then become puckered, and do not stretch the
E70389
material or the curve will not be the proper shape
FIG. 29. BINDINg an OUTSIDE CURVE when finished. If the stitching does not catch the
edge of the binding the scroll should be adjusted a
trifle to the left.
through the scroll and should not be crowded against
the wall of it. Guiding should be from the back
Binding Inside Curves
It will be necessary to practice binding an inside
curve on various kinds of material, as this curve is
found on nearly all garments which may be finished
with a bound edge.
When binding an inside curve with the Binder,
straighten out the edge as it is being fed into the
attachment. When doing this, care should be taken
not to stretch the edge of the material.
E5074 E 5088
If the material is soft, like batiste or crepe de chine,
FIg. 30. SAMPLE OF OUT- FIG. 31. SAmPlE oF add a row of machine stitching close to the edge of
SIDE CURVE INSIDE CURVE the curve before binding.View original page 16Page 17 · Read text
30 31
Applying a French Fold to a Curve The Parts of the Tucker and Their Uses
Select the Tucker from the box of attachments,
A French fold is applied by placing the material
compare it with Fig. 33 and note the names and uses
under the attachment and stitching the binding in
of the various parts, as follows:
MARRING TUCK GUIDE
CLEVER ADJUSTING SCREW
TUCK
GUIDE
TUCK SCALE
AND
SMOOTHER SPACE SCALE
BLADES ADJUSTING SCREW
E70395 SPACE
SCALE
GROOVED, * SPUR
BLADE BLADE C 5310
FIG. 32. APPLTINg FRENCH FOLDS
FIG. 33. THE TUCKER anD Its WorKIng PARTS
The Tuck Guide, which is adjustable and may be
position as shown in Fig. 32. A line made by basting
set for any desired width of tuck.
or with chalk or pencil may be used as a guide in
The Tuck Scale, containing figures which indicate
applying rows where wanted.
different widths of tucks. The tuck scale also
acts as a smoother blade, keeping the tucks of
DAINTY WAYS TO USE THE TUCKER
The uniformTuck Guidewidth.Adjusting Screw, by means of
which the tuck guide may be set at any point
Tucking is the natural trimming for fine materials on the tuck scale.
such as lawn, organdie, batiste, etc., and may be The Space Scale, containing figures on the upper
made without basting in any width from a fine pin blade which indicate the width of the space be-
tuck to one inch wide when using the Singer Tucker. tween tucks. The middle or grooved blade
The Tucker gauges the width of the tuck and while contains a groove into which the material is
one tuck is being stitched the mark for the next pressed by the spur at the end of the lower or
tuck is being made. spur blade, thus marking the goods for the
It is so simple to make tucks in this way that it is folding of the next tuck.
a joy to plan garments with this fascinating trimming. The Space Scale Adjusting Screw, by means of
Then, too, such trimmings may be made without which the space scale may be set at any desired
extra cost. The fashion magazines always give point.
numerous suggestions for tucking various garments. The Marking Lever, which presses on the grooved
The following pages will explain the adjusting and blade, marking the material as it passes between
operating of this time-saving attachment. the grooved and spur blades.View original page 17Page 18 · Read text
32 33
Where to Oil the Tucker To adjust the width of space between the tucks
The only place on the Tucker that requires oiling loosen the space scale adjusting screw and move the
is the stud on which the marking lever works. One space scale until the desired figure is directly in a line
drop of oil occasionally is sufficient at the point with the centre of the needle hole. You will find indicated by the arrow in Fig. 35. Careless oiling
will result in oily blades and soiled material. When a line in front and back of the needle hole to indicate
the marking lever does not move up and down freely, the centre.
it requires oiling. If neglected, it may become so
dry that it will stay down and cause a drag on the Before starting to sew, tighten the screw firmly
material instead of lifting freely as the mark is made. to prevent the scale shifting when the Tucker is
in operation.
To Attach the Tucker to the Machine The figures on the tuck scale indicate the width of
Raise the needle bar to the highest point, remove tuck in eighths of an inch, the marks between figures
the presser foot from the machine and attach the are sixteenths. The marks on the space scale are
Tucker in its place. Care should be taken to see that double the width of those on the tuck scale, so that the Tucker is securely fastened to the presser
bar when both scales are set at the same figure, blind and that the needle goes through the centre of the
needle hole. Note the position of the marking lever, tucks without spaces between them are made.
making sure that it is in the lower position and
that To make space between tucks, first set the tuck the needle clamp works on it as the machine sews.
seale, then move the space scale to the same number
How to Adjust the Scales on the Tucker and as much farther to the left as you wish to have
The width of the tucks and the space between space. Each number on the space scale represents
them is determined by the adjustment of the scales. one-quarter of an inch and each mark between
Adjustment for width of tuck is made by loosening numbers one-eighth of an inch.
the tuck guide adjusting screw, which allows you
to move the tuck guide to the desired figure on the Use the table below to assist you in setting the
tuck scale. The tuck guide should be set just over Tucker.
the figure you wish to use. The adjusting screw TUCK SPACE
should always be well tightened GUIDE SCALE
⅛" tucks with ⅛"no space 1 11½
nO
¼" ¼"
½" nO½" E 40054 no 22448 3468
Note Fig. 34, showing Tucker set at a pin tuck
FIG. 34. TUckeR SeT AT PIN TUCk AnD 2 SPACE and 2 for space.View original page 18Page 19 · Read text
34 35
Where to Insert the Material to be Tucked RUFFLER
Fold and crease the first tuck for its entire length Lines 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 shown in Fig. 36 indicate
by hand, insert it in the Tucker from the left, placing where the material is to be placed for various
operations, as follows:
B
E
210398
FIG. 35. PROPER POSITION OF MATERIAL IN TUCKER
it between the grooved blade and the spur blade of
the space scale, and between the two blades of the
tuck scale. See Fig. 35.
Care should be taken to see that the material is H E9832
placed far enough in the Tucker to feed against the
tuck guide. Draw the material towards you until FIG. 36. THE RUFFLER AND ITS PARTS
the edge is directly under the needle. Lower the
presser bar and sew. You will note that the Tucker is Line 1-the correct position for the material to making a mark for the next tuck.
When the first tuck is finished, fold the material which the ruffled material is applied.
on the mark made by the spur during the sewing of Line 2-material to be ruffled.
the first tuck and insert the folded edge in the Tucker.
Line 3-the facing for the ruffle.
It is most important to see that the first tuckIS
against the inside of the spur. After lowering the Line 4-the strip of piping material.
presser bar, raise the material slightly and adjust it
Line 5--the edge to be piped.
until the folded edge is just touching the guide and
the preceding tuck is against the spur. This insures Refer to Fig. 36 when inserting the material in
even tucks. the ruffler.View original page 19Page 20 · Read text
36 37
The names and uses of the principal parts of the To Adjust the Ruffler for Gathering
ruffler are as follows:
The adjusting finger (F, Fig. 37) is not intended
(SEE ReFeReNces in FIg. 36)
for gathering and should be moved forward or away
A Foot the part by which the ruffler is attached from the needle, as shown in Fig. 37.
to the presser bar.
B-_Fork Arm-_-the section that must be placed
astride the needle clamp.
C AdJUSting Screw-the screw that regulates the
fullness of the gather.
D PrOJEcTION-the part that projects through the
slots in the adjusting lever.
E ADJUSTIng Lever the lever that sets the ruffler
for gathering or for making a plait once at
every six stitches or once at every twelve
stitches, as desired; also for disengaging the
ruffler, when either plaiting or gathering is
not desired.
F. ADJUSTING FINgER the part which regulates
the width or size of the plaits.
G SEPARATOR GUIDE- the guide on the underside 2.7928
of the ruffler, containing slots into which the
edge of the material is placed to keep the FIg. 37
heading of the ruffle even; also for separating
the material to be ruffled from the material to
which the ruffle is to be attached Raise the adjusting lever (E, Fig. 37) and move it
H-RUFFLIng BlaDE-the upper blue steel blade enterto thetheleftslotso markedthat the"1"projectionin the adiusting(D, Fig.lever37) will(E)
with the teeth at the end to push the material
in plaits up to the needle. when the lever is released. The ruffling blade will
J_ SePARATOR BLADE the lower blue steel blade then move forward and back once at every stitch.
without teeth, which prevents the teeth of the Insert the material to be ruffled between the two blue blades, following the line 2 in Fig. 36. Draw
ruffling blade coming into contact with the the material slightly back of the needle, lower the
feed of the machine, or the material to which presser bar and commence to sew.
ruffle or plaiting is to be applied.
To Attach the Ruffer to the Machine To make fine gathering, shorten the stroke of the
rufling blade by turning the adjusting screw (C, Fig.
Raise the needle bar to its highest point and re- 37) upwardly; also shorten the stitch. To make fuil
move the presser foot. Attach the ruffer foot (A, gathering, lengthen the stroke of the ruffling blade
Fig. 36) to the presser bar by means of the thumb
screw, at the same time placing the fork arm byalsoturninglengthenthetheadjustingstitch.By screwvarying(C)thesedownwardly,adjust-
(B, Fig. 36) astride the needle clamp as shown in ments, many pleasing varieties of work can be
Fig. 37. accomplished.View original page 20Page 21 · Read text
38 39
To Make a Ruffle and Sew it to a the ruffle so that the wrong sides are together. If
Garment in One Operation the facing is to be on the wrong side, place the right
sides of the garment and the ruffle together.
Insert the material to be ruffled between the two
blue blades, as shown in Fig. 38, following the line
I 7830 E7824
FIG. 39
FIG. 38 Piping a Ruffle
Insert the material to be ruffled between the two
blue blades, following the line 2, in Fig. 36. This
following the line 1, in Fig. 36. Proceed the same
as for gathering.
The edge of the ruffled seam can be bound by
using the binder.
To Ruffle and Sew on a Facing
in One Operation
Insert the material to be ruffled between the two
blue blades, following the line 2, in Fig. 36.Place
the garment to which the ruffle is to be attached,
under the separator blade, following the line 1, in
Fig. 36. Place the material for the facing over the
upper blue blade, as shown in Fig. 39, following
Fig. 40
the line 3, in Fig. 36. The facing may be straight
or bias material. If the facing is to be on the material must not be over 1¼ inches wide, as
right side of the garment, place the garment and it is carried through the ruffler with the finishedView original page 21Related documents and language editions
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