Voigtlander INOS User manual

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  Preliminary Note
     Every Voigtlzinder camera is made to last for years pro-
  vided
  with       reasonable- and thiscare.is a pointIn histoownbe notedinterest- therefore,that it is handledthe user
  should caref ully study the instructions   f or the manipulation
                                     2
                            Digitally signed by mike
                       butkus
                     DN: cn=mike butkus,mike       o=orphancameras,
                      ou=29,
                      email=mike@butkus.
                          org, c=USbutkus Date: 2017.01.23
                         16:04:18 -05'00'





                               Fig. 1. Opening the camera
  of his instrument.  If, however, he works the various move-
  ments in a random nlanner without following our directions,
   it is easy to cause damage to apparatus of such refined con-
  struction, and the repair of any damage will naturally cost
  time and money. Therefore make it a rule to exercise care.
 Opening tlre Camera
    Take hold of the camera with the left hand, placing the
  thumb on the release button 2 (fig. 1). Now press on the
  btrtton 2, whereupon the baseboard springs out far enough
  to be grasped by the right hand and to be readily pressed

down until the struts l0 (fig. 1) distinctly snap into place.
Now take hold of the two finger-grips 3 (fig. 2) with the
thumb and the firstfinger of the right hand, and draw out the
lens-front 1 1 (fig. 2) so that it is secttred by the spring 13
(fig. 2) at the frbnt of the baseboard, where it comes into

           l-





          3
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         4                                                         11
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                 Eig.2. Working parts of the camera
place with a slight click. Be partictrlar to see that this i^t !o,
6therwise the pictures will be out of foctts, on account of the
focussing scale not being in proper register. Now release
the two  f inger-grips: the camera is now focussed on
"infinity" (-).
Foeussing on near obiects
   In the case of objects at short distances, focussing ildone by means of the iadial lever. The milled head^5 (fig. 2)
is thrust back with thumb and finger over the focussing
scale 4 (tig. 2). The pointer is set over the dot marked with
the requirtO distance in feet as shown in fig. 3, where three
different positions of the radial lever are indicated.

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 Irls dlaphragm
   The iris diaphragm plays an important part in obtaining
 sharp pictures.  It is operated by the lever 15 (figs. 4,5 and 6)
on the shutter and allows the aperture of the lens to be
reduced as required. The lever 15 shows the working aper-
ture or F/No. on a scale.





                                Fig. 3. Focussing scale

   The chief purpose of the stop is to extend the depth of
focus, which question is dealt with at greater length in the
section "Depth of Fdcus". A second use of the stop, but
one seldom needed, is for stopping down in very bright light
so as to avoid over-exposure of the negative. This is done if
the speed of the shutter is not suff icient to cut down the
exposure to the required time. By stopping down to obtain
greater depth of focus, a longer exposure is always required,
so that in many cases there are limits to the extent to which
this can be done.

Depth of Eoeus
   The lenses fitted to our cameras are designed to give at
full aperture a picture (sharp to the edges) of an object
lying in the plane which is focussed on. But when it  is

required to obtain sharp definition, in the one negative,
of objects at different distances from the camera, the
"depth of focus" needs to extend over a number of planes
in the object space and so the lens must be stopped down.
This applies to all lenses.
  When focussing on a given distance each lens aperture
corresponds with a certain range of depth of focus, which
becomes greater as the lens is stopped down. The aim of the
photographer is to adjust the stop and the distance fo-
cussed on so that as much as possible of the subject falls
within this range (or region) of depth of focus. It is a matter
of fact that, when stopping dowr.r, the depth of focus extends
far less towards the camera than towards the extreme
distance. For this reason focussing is done, at the outset,
on objects which are relatively near. This applies also
when there is little scope for stopping down on account of
the light or movement of the subject, since an unsharp
foreground conflicts with the natural sensation experienced
by our eyes, which are accustomed to perceive a near object
more clearly than one a long rvay off.
  On every "lnos" camera is an engraved scale of depth
of focus, which indicates the distribution of the focus
according to the stop used and the distance focussed on.
A glance at this useful table will show the conditions most
favourable to depth of focus. Those who make regular use
of the depth-of-focus  table will have no occasion to complain
of unsharp photos-
Shutter
   The camera is supplied with either of the three shutters:
Embezet, Ibsor or Compur.
Embezet Shutter wlth sell-timer
   The speed is regulated by means of the speed dial 16,
on which the figures T (for long time exposures) and B
(for short time exposures) as well as those for instantaneous
exposures (t/too,'lno,'lrs) are engraved. The speeds, although
fractions of a second, are written as whole numbers to make
the reading easier.

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   Instantaneous exposures: The speed is regulated by
turning the dial l6 right or left so that the required speed
is just above the mark on the dial below it.  In the right
position one feels a little click. The shutter is now ready for
making the exposure which is done by pressing the finger
lever 14 or operating the cable release screwed into socket 13.
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                      Fig.4, Embezet shutter
   Time exposures : Turn dial until letter B is opposite
the indicator; by pressing down the cable release or the
finger release, the shutter opens and remains thus for as long
as the pressure is exercised. If one intends to give an ex-
posure of three seconds, count "one little second, two
little seconds, three little seconds", as quickly as one usually
speaks. When saying "one" press the trigger and at the
conclusion of the phrase, the pressure is released by letting
the lever come up.
     If the letter  (' T' ' is above the pointer, the shutter opens
by operating the finger release 14 or the cable release and
remains open until the release is pressed a second time.
This position is used when giving exposures of anything over
twenty seconds or thereabotrts; for instarrce, night pictures
which may need exposures of several minutes, and also for
flashlight exposures where the shtrtter is left open and the
f lash makes the actual exposure.

Self-timer: Wherr giving instantaneoLls exposures of
     t/roo, rlso and tlrr sec. this shutter may be released autom ati-
   cally by means of a delay mechanism, so that one can take
   onets own portrait. The shr-rtter having been set' to the
   required speed, it is tensioned by pressing the lever 17 (with
   red knob) as far as it will go. The release trigger 14 or the
   cable release is then operated as for all ordinary exposrlre,
   but owirig to the action of the delay mechanism the exposilre
   does not take place until af ter the expiry of about   l 0 or
       I I secs.
       In the case when the clelay mechanism has been set as
   just directed but for some reason is uot reqrrired, the lens
   shoulcl be firmly covered with the palm of the hand, thus
   allowing of the shutter being operated without exposing
   the  f ilm. It is best not to keep thc delay mechanisrn
   tensioned.





                                               Irig. 5. Ihsor shutter

  Ibsor Slrutter (fig.5)
     The Ibsor shutter is automatic iu actiorr, but not fitted
   with a self timer. In addition to short and long time ex-
                                                                        sec.   posurcs, it gives instantaneous exposures from I to 'lrrs    It is manipulated in the same way as the Embezet.lr

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Compur Shutter ruitlr self-timer (fig. 6).
   Round the ring of the shutter is the rotating ring 16,
which is engraved with the letters f  (long time expost"tres)
and B (short time exposures) and with the instantaneous
speeds from I to tlrsosec. These latter are marked as whole
numbers instead of fractions, so as to be more easily read.
    Instantaneous exposures : Turn the ring 16 so as to
bring the speed required to the index line seen above the

                                                    t7            IB

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            t4
           l5
                                Fig. 6. Compur shutter
word "Voigtlzinder". The speeds range continuously from
1 to l/1ss s€c., So that any intermediate speecl may be obtained
by setting the index line between two conseclltive numbers,
e. g. rlTs between r/ro and t/too sec. But this does not apply
                                                    sec., norbetween 1/roo and the maximum speed of 'lrsobetween B and I sec. The shutter is set (tensioned) by
pressing the lever l8 to the right (when viewed from the
front) until it is felt to stop. As a general rule it is immaterial
whether the shutter is  f irst set to the speed and then tensionecl
or if the reverse order is adopted, but with the maximum
speed it must always be set to speed before tensioning.
The shutter is released simply by pressing on the trigger l4
or the flexible cable screwed in at 13.
   Time exposures. For time exposures the shutter is not
tensioned ; the lever 18 is locked when setting to T or B

and any force applied to press it down will damage the
shutter. By setting the letter.B to the index line, the shutter
opens on pressing the flexible release or trigger 14 and
remains open as long as the pressure is maintained. To give
an exposlrre of, say, 3 seconds, repeat distinctly and at the
normal rate of speaking "one little second", "two little
seconds", "three little seconds". The trigger or release is
pressed ad the "one", and pressure relaxed at'the end of
"three little seconds".
  By setting the letter T to the index line, the shutter
then opens on the first pressure and remains open until a
second pressure is given. This is the setting to use for
exposures which run into minutes and for those by flash-
light, since there is no need to keep the release pressed
during the period of exposure.
    Self-timer. To make an exposure with oneself in the
picture: the shutter is  f irst tensioned in the usual manner.
Then the button 17 on the rim is thrust in the direction
of the engraved arrow, whereupon the lever 18 can be
operated a second time, thus tensioning the self-portrait
release. Now press the trigger 14 or the flexible release,
just as in making an ordinary exposure. This sets in motion
the clockwork mechanism by which the shutter is operated
after about l2seconds. The speed is adjusted by setting
theringtotherequiredtime(1to'/'ooSec.).@
cannot be used in coniunction with the maximum speed.
   The exposure having been made, the shutter auto-
matically adjusts itself for normal exposures, so that the
operatioh above described must be repeated  if it is wished to
give a further exposure in the self-portrait manner.

Exposure
   The right exposure, which is the most essential factor
photography, depends on three points:
              l. Aperture of the iris diaphragm.
          2. Speed of the film.
           3. Value of the actinic

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  We supply with each camera an exposure calcul ator, with
which the time of exposure may be quickly and easily
ascertained.

Flnders
   The camera is fitted with two different finders, showing
the subject correctly both for full-size pictures and also
when using the adapter for smaller pictures.
   Frame or direct-vision Finder. This ccnsists of the wire
frame 12 (fig. 2) attached to the right-hand side of the
lens-front (when viewed facing the lens) and of the eyepiece I
(fig.2) placed on the long right-hand side of the camera
back. When not in use, the wire frame encloses the lens
panel. For operation,  it is turned out through lB00 and is
kept in place by spring bearings. The full space of the





                            Fig. 7. Frame  finder
             (a for large pictures    b for small pictures)                                     -
                                 11

frame shows the subject obtained in 3/ax 2y1ins. pictures,
whilst the inner section formed by the two cross wires
corresponds with the 23lru x  l1t/ro ins. picture. The eyepieceis likewise spring-hinged. to its base. For use, it is turned
up to the metal tongue provided on the camera back, so that
it is parallel with the wire frame.
   Like the lvire frame, the eyepiece has two different
apertures. To see the subject for the 3/+ x'?r,\ pictute,
the inner piece with the small aperture is turned back, with
a touch of the finger on the metal tongue, on to the camera
body, only the full open eyepiece remaining upright. The
eyepiece is then brought to sttch a distance from the eye that
its aperture coincides with the full space of the wire frame
(fig.7a). For tlie small pictures, the inner piece is turned
trp into place and its (smaller) aperture caused to coincide
with the corresponding mid portion of the frame as shown
in fig. 7b.
   Although at first the use of the frame finder may seem
a little inconvenient, it has certain positive advantages.
As the camera is at the eye level when viewing the subject,
the picture is taken in the natural perspective to which
we are accustomed' Also, the frame finder shows the
subject full size and with great acctlracy. It is only when
photographing a very ncar object that the picture in the
iramelinder (the same thing applies to the brilliant finder)
differs slightly from that obtained on the film. This last is
due to the so-called "parallax", and it should be kept
particularly in mind when taking 2ulru x  11l/ru pictures with
aid of the Focar Portrait Attachment (see page 2l).
    Brilliant Finder. For exposures at the waist level the
large-aperture brilliant finder 8 (fig. 2) may be used in the
normal position for upright 3/+ x 2/a pictures and for
oblong 2ilru X 111/ru pictures. For oblong 3/+ x 2y'opictures
and upright 2"lru x 111/16, it is turned through 900. The
image ihor"rld be viewed at the normal distance of comfortable
vision (about l0 ins.) taking care that the eye is directly
above the centre of the tinder.
    Fig. 8 shows how to tell the amount of subject included
when taking upright and oblong pictures in 3r/a x 2/4size.
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When taking the nearly scluare smaller pictllres it it sr-rfficierrtto take the-black points which project beyond the mask of
the finder as the corners of both the upright and horizontal
picture.
   The quite small but bright picture irr the finder can be
magnified three or fottr times by fitting on a Filder Magni-
fiei(see "Useful Accessories" at end of this booklet). Before





               Upright               Oblong
         Fig. B. Image in brilliant finder for 31 l+X2Ll* ins. pictures

closing the canlera the brilliant finder must always be in its
normal position (for upright pictures), otherwise the camera
rvill be damaged when closing  it.
Holding the Camera
    The proper field of the hand-camera  is in making instan-
taneous exposures of living subjects and thus featuring them
in unconstrained naturalness. Such interesting subjects are
constantly met with when going about but are rendered in
pictures only when exposllres are rnade witltout a lot of con-
sideration. Obviously some aptiturJe and, especially, a certain
amount of practice are callcd for.  It is therefore well to
become thoroughly familiar with the various movements by
practising them with the unloaded camera.
   So far as holciing the camera is concerned, there is little
difference between taking 3Y+ x 2/+ and 2'lru x  ltt/ru pic-
tures. The only thing to keep in mind is that for the upright

                             L3

smaller pictures the camera is held horizontal (baseboard on
one side) whilst for oblong small pictures it is held upright;
in each case the opposite of the position tor 3/a x 2/4 pic-
tures.
   The camera having been opened and focussed, a firm
position must be taken, since any slight wobble of the camera
during the exposure will result in pictures with double
outlirres. When holding the camera upright, the baseboard
is held with the left hand, the thumb on the left-hand edge
and the four fingers on the right. But when sighting with
the camera in horizontal position by means of the frame
finder, lay the left hand on the lower rounded part of the
camera body whilst supporting the camera by the upper
rounded part with the palm of the right hand. In the use
of the brilliant finder with the camera horizontal, the thumb
of the left hand is allowed to rest on the top edge of the
baseboard, and the four fingers on the lower edge.
   For holding the camera specially firmly, the back may
be pressed against the head when using the direct-vision
finder;for the upright position  it is placed against the fore-
head and nose (viewing the sight with the left eye) or, for the
horizontal position, against the nose and cheek bone. When
using the brilliant finder, the camera back is placed against
the chest.
   The best way to make the exposure is with the flexible
cable held in a wide curve (not tightly stretched), pressing
smoothly on the release, not with a jerk. Exposures of
1/u6 sec. and less may be made with the camera held in the
hand, if ordinary care is taken to stand steadily.
   For longer exposures, the camera must be used on a
firm support. It is placed on a table or other firm support
with the aid of the hinged strut 6 (fig. 2) or is screwed to a
tripod of the ordinary pattern. For use with the latter, the
camera is f itted with two tripod bushes, one in the baseboard
and the other in the side of the body.
  When first screwing the camera to a tripod, make sure
that the tripod screw is not too long for the particular bush,
otherwise it is an easy matter to ruin the thread. If the
tripod screw is too long, it must either be shortened or some
packing inserted.
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Closing the Gamera
    Bef ore closing the camera, every part of the camera
has to be in its normal position.
    1. See that the radial lever (5,  f ig. 2) is right home on
      the inf inity mark.
   2. See that the frame finder is in its resting place.
   3. See that the brilliant finder is in the normal position.
   4. See that the bellows are in the proper position, other-
     wise they are likely to be damaged if the camera
       is closed.
   Having observed the above five points, release the
lens-front from its catch by pressing with tlte thumb on



                                           /
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      I/l::1:.71.





                        Fig.9. Closing the camera
the spring 13 (fig.9) and pr"rsh it back a little with the finger
nail. Next rvith the thumb and first finger, grip the two
finger grips, enabling the lens-front to be readily pushed
into the back body. The bellows automatically fold
themselves into place as this is done.
  The lens-front must be entirely in the camera body
before turning up the baseboard; if not, the runners will be

                               15

bent. All being in order, hold the camera with both hancls
so that the first and second fingers lie on the back of the
camera whilst the lower part of the back body rests on the
two third  f ingers. Gentle pressllre of the thumbs on the two
struts will now release these from the catches, So that tlre
baseboard can be turned up.
   While Voigtl:inder cameras are solidly and substantially
 bttilt, yet force nrust not be usecl. They are instruments of
 preci-sion, rvhich naturally call for propcr handling.





                              F'ig. 10. Opening the film chambers
Loading the Camera
   The insertion of the roll-film into the camera  or
"loading", as this operation is shortly termed may be
Cone by daylight, as the film itself is protected against the
harmful action of light by several layers of opaque wrapping
paper. Nevertheless it is, of coursc, well not to load the film in
direct sunlight, but at any rate in the shadow of one's body.
    Bef ore opening the  f ilm chambers,  f irst turn the eyepiece of
the frarnefinder into the up position so as to avoid injuring the
Ieather covering of the camera. Hold the camera by the narrow
side, so that the back with the red windows is towards the
left hand. Now with the first finger of the Ieft hand slide the
catch 7 (fig. 10) which is placed under the carrying strap,
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sideways in the direction of  the  arrow, whereupon the
cover of the camera back can  easi  I y be turned on its hinge
clown into the open position  (fig.  I r ).
  19      1                            20





                           Fig. 11. View of film chambers
   On the upper film chamber (to receive the empty spool)
is the wincling key I (fig. I l) with the flat pin l9'bi whicli
the spool is turned when the winding key is operated. A
quarter turn of the winding key to the left (backwards)
suffices to bring this pin from its norrnal position a (tig. 12)





                                   F-ig. 12. F-ilm winding key
into the position b in which it is invisible from the inside of
the film chamber. The empty spool can now be inserted
very easily (fig. l3), only tacking care that the end c.f the
spool with the slot in it is pnt next to the rvinding key,

                                T7

and that both ends of the spool are put in simultaneously.
Now give the winding key one or two turns to the right, the
flat pin then springing automatically into the slot and
connecting the spool with the winding key.
   The fresh full spool is now laid in the other film chamber
(next to the hinge of the camera back), where it is held
in place by the springs 20 (fig. 11). It is very important that
the taper end of the red wrapping paper should project from
the film chamber on the side next to the hinge in order that
the fresh spool, in unrolling, may turn in the same direction,
i. e.to the right, as the ernpty spool is turned by the winding
key.





                           Fig. 13. Inserting empty spool
  Now tear of f the white adhesive strip  f rom the  f ull
spool with the finger nail, close the camera back half-way,
so that the spool cannot spring out, and draw the end of
the wrapping paper over to the upper film chamber. Then
insert the taper end in the long slit in the empty spool
(fig. 1a) andwind on the paper bygiving about I or I /2turnsto the winding key, the paper being thus stretched taut
between the two spools. At the same time make sure that the
paper is not askew on the spool, otherwise the film will
subsequently become jammed.
   All having been properly arranged, carefully close the
camera back by pressing the two halves together.

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Exposures of 3'lnx 2'lt ins. size
   For pictures of 3y+ x 211 ins. size only the lower of the
two small windows in the camera back is used. After
inserting the film, the winding key is turned slowly on until
(after about 10 or 15 turns) there appears between the
points of the arrow of this lorver wirrdow a hand, then some





                       frg.Fig. 14.I+.  AttacnlngAttaching wrapplngwrapping  paper
dots and finally the number l. The camera is rlow ready
for the first exposure. For the second and further ex-
posllres, the winding key is again turned so as to bring the
number 2 and the others up to 6 (or 8) successively into
place in the lower window.
     It is advisable to wind on to the next number as soorl
as each exposure has been made, that is, before closing the
camera, so as to avoid rubbing the film against the folds of
the bellows.
Adapter for small Pictures
   For making 12 pictures of 2tlru x ltt/ru ins. instead of
six of 3/+x 2/a ins. on a band of film, use is made of the
mask of spring steel, whiclt is fixed in the frame between
the two film chambers before loading the camera (fig. l5).
  The back of the camera is opened, the baseboard let
down an d the lens-f ront drawn  f orward so that the  f ol ds
of the bellows cannot get in the way. Now put the narrow
                              t9

side cf the mask under the narrow side of the frame over
which the film passes, letting the projecting side-pieces on
the mask fall into the recesses provided fcr them on the
frarne. When it is seen that all is correctly in place, the  f ilm
can be inserted in the  trstral wav.





           Fig. 15. Inserting the adapter (mask) for small pictures
  When making the small picttrres of 2'lru x ltt/ru ins.
almost the entire area of the film is utilised, so that there is
only a very small space betr,veen the successive pictures.
For this reason it is necessary to take care that the numbers
come bet''uveen the two points of the arrow (provided for this
purpose in the red winCows) when turning on the film. For
the first exposure the winCing key is turned until the figure  1
appears up to the arrows in the lower of the two redwindows.
When the first exposrrre has been rnade, thc filmkey is wound
trntil thc same figure I appears in thc upper window, the fiim
is then in position for the second exposure. The difference,
as compared with taking 3y+ x 21tl pictures, is that each
of the figures 1 to 6 is caused to appear first in the lower
window, and therr in the upper one for the next exposure.

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When the fig. 6 has appeared in the upper window and the
last exposure made on it, the whole film has been exposed.
  When taking the little pictures it is of very special
importance to wind on the film with the bellows extended,
best as soon as each exposure has been made. If the folds
of the bellows press against the mask used for the small
pictures, there is the danger that the film will be scratched
when winding it further behind.
   Inasmuch as the small negatives will frequently be
enlarged, special care should be taken in focussing and in
stopping down sufficiently when much depth of focus is
required. Slight unsharpness which would perhaps pass
unnoticed in contact prints is also enlarged in the enlarging
process and spoils the effect of the picture.
  When using the Focar Portrait Attachment for small
pictures, the direct-vision finCer shows less of the subject
on the side next the lens front, and more on the opposite
side, than is actually obtained on the film.  (Parallax,
see page 12.) This shift of the picture amounts to about  t/u
(for objects at 3 ft. distance) to l/s (for objects l/2tt. away)
of the long dimension viz. of the cross-piece in the frame.
In such cases, simply look somewhat obliquely through
the sight, viz. downwards for upright pictures and to the
left for oblong pictures, thus producing, in effect, a shift
of the sight relatively to the finder frame. By noting the
part of the image space which is covered by the shutter,
it is easy to observe the correct amount of subject.
Unloading the Gamera
   When the whole film has been exposed, turn the winding
key until the end of the red wrapping strip has passed by
in the windows and the film has thereby been wound on to
the upper spool. It is not possible to over-wind in doing this.
  Now turn up the camera back, as already described iir
fig. 10 for loading the camera. Next, hold the end of the
rcd paper in place with the left hand arrd, with the right
hand, give a few turns of the winding key until the paper
is wound fairly firmly. The paper should not be wound too
tightly, because the film may become marked by the friction
of one coil on another. Now givq the winding key a quarter
turn in the reverse direction take hold of the spool with the

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