White Magic Key Buttonhole Worker — User manual

COVER ATTACHING SCREW      CLOTH CLAMP
      ADJUSTING KNOB

                                          COVER
                                                                       FORK ARM




                                                                   ADAPTOR



                                                                  ADAPTOR
                                                                     CLAMPING SCREW


HINGED RETAINER PLATE


                      STiTCH WIDTH
                     ADJUSTOR        BETAINER PLATE HINGE
                                                                            CLOTH CLAMP



Make beautiful buttonholes on your sewing machine
                 with the
MAGIC KEY BUTTONHOLE WORKER

 This Magie Key controlled buttonhole     ment to control the size and contour of
  worker is your key to fine buttonhole     your buttonhole. You just select the key
  making on your own sewing machine.    from the assortment that comes with
  Like slipping a coin into a slot the    your buttonhole worker and you get
  proper Magic Key slips into the attach.      just the kind of buttonhole you want.

TRIM STRAIGHT BUTTONHOLES

Now buttonholes are fun to make and fast
 and easy too. because your sewing machine
does all the work. You don't even use your
hands to guide or hold material. You just
 clamp the material into position, take your
 hands off, run your machine and presto!,
like magie you have a beautifully worked
 buttonhole. The Magic Key automatically
 controls the attachment. Once it is in posi-
 tion it will make buttonhole after button-
 hole each an exact duplicate of the other,
and more beautifully worked than if done                                                       MAGIC KEY FOR STRAIGHT BUTTONHOLE
 by hand.                                             AND SAMPLE OF BUTTONHOLE IT MAKES




  KEYHOLE BUTTONHOLES, TOO

 Never before has it been possible to make
 tailored-type keyhole buttonholes on a
family sewing machine. But you can now.
In your assortment of keys is one for a
 keyhole buttonhole of just the proper size
 for tailored suits and coats where such
 buttonholes add so much to making vour
garment look well tailored. Once you have
become familiar with this attachment. vou
 will discover additional uses for vour
buttonhole worker such as limited types
of monogramming, simple embroidery and
 decorative designs.                                   MAGIC KEY FOR KEYHOLE BUTTONHOLE
                                                        AND SAMPLE OF BUTTONHOLE IT MAKES

SELECT MAGIC KEY FOR KIND

 AND SIZE BUTTONHOLE WANTED

 A set of five Magic Keys with which to make
 various size buttonholes is furnished with
 the attachment. The sizes cover buttonhole
lengths ⅘*. ⅘", 1¾". and 11/106" for
regular buttonholes and a key for a 1¼,*       LINE SHOWS ACTUAL
 kevhole buttonhole for suits and coats.      LENGTH OF CUTTING AREA
                                                   IN COMPLETED BUTTONHOLE(The 1¼ key for a regular buttonhole
is already in the attachment.) The length
of cutting area of the buttonhole made by                           THIS CIRCLE ON END OF
each key is indicated by the measurement                             LINE INDICATES THIS
 line embossed on back of key and the size                            IS KEY FOR MAKING
                                                                   KEYHOLE BUTTONHOLE        6



  notation embossed alongside of line. To
 determine the key needed to make the cor-
  rect size buttonhole for a flat button, place
 the button over this measurement line on
 the back of the key.

     • Make Sample Test Strip
  Using each key make a sample of each
  buttonhole on a scrap of light colored
 fabric. Mark the length under each one
  and keep sample handy in your buttonhole
  worker case. Use sample buttonholes to test
  ornamental buttons which are thick or
  irregularly shaped.
             7

TO CHANGE MAGIC KEY

   • Lift Hinged Retainer Plate

  Turn the cloth elamp adjusting knob clock-

  wise until the cloth clamp has just passed
  its extreme forward position moving out
  from the attachment. Turn the attachment

 bottom side up as shown. Push the retainer
   plate toward the back by pushing hinged
 edge with thumb. This will free the retainer
   plate from the lock in the rear. At the same         THEN LIFT
                                                 HINGED RETAINER
  time lift rear end of plate until the key         PLATE HERE
 which is in the attachmentg      is accessible.


• How To Insert Key


Remove the key by grasping it on each side
 through the curved finger slots. Having
                                                       FINGER SLOTS
 selected the key for the size buttonhole
 desired, pop it into place of the one re.
 moved. If key doesn't drop flush into the
opening. jiggle key or turn cloth clamp
 knob slightly so teeth in key and cogwheel
in attachment will mesh. One end of key is
 larger than the other so that ker cannot be
inserted improperly. Snap the retainer plate
 back into position. The attachment is now
 ready to be put on the presser bar of the
sewing machine.

HOW TO ATTACH BUTTONHOLE
         WORKER

    • Remove Presser Foot and Holder                              LOOSEN
                                                                SCREW

Your buttonhole worker is one of the easiest
 attachments to use and also one of the

easiest put onto your sewing machine.

 To attach. first remove the presser foot
 holder with the presser foot attached, from
 the presser bar of the sewing machine by
loosening set screw just above the knurled                                 SLIP OFF HOLDER
 thumb screw. Holder will then slip off.                               AND PRESSER FOOT
                                                                    TOGETHER             10


  • Attach Feed Cover Plate

Your Magie Key buttonhole worker con-
 trols the cloth with its own cloth clamp, so
  the regular cloth feed on your sewing ma-                       LINE UP NEEDLE
                                                                 HOLES BEFORE
  chine must be covered before buttonhole                    TIGHTENING
 worker is attached. This is done with the                    ANCHOR SCRE
  feed cover plate. Place the feed cover plate
  over the needle plate on the machine as
 shown. Allow the needle to enter the slot in
  the plate, making sure it is in the center.
 Fit the anchor screw through the hole in the
 anchor plate and into screw hole in the bed
 of the machine. Tighten with a serew driver.
               11

GUIDE IN
         ATTACHING                     FROM BACK

      BUTTONHOLE WORKER                                      HOOK FORK ARM
                                                                      OVER NEEDLE
                                                                        CLAMP SCREW
        (Continued from Preceding Page)

 Raise needle to highest position. Raise fork
 arm of buttonhole worker into line with
 the needle clamp. Guide attachment into
 position from the rear, placing the fork
 arm astride hub of needle clamp and the
 adaptor around presser bar of sewing ma-
chine. Important - lower sewing machine
 presser bar. Straighten attachment so it is
square across machine. Tighten adaptor       PUT ADAFTOR AROUND
                                                   PRESSER BAR AND
 clamping screw with a screw driver.             LOWER PRESSES BAR



  • Test Position of Worker

 Before threading the sewing machine, test
 to see that buttonhole worker is on machine
 straight by operating with a piece of paper
 under the cloth clamp. The needle will per-
 forate a pattern of the stitching on the
 paper. This pattern should center left and
  right in the opening of the cloth clamp. If
 line of stitching is not straight in cloth
 clamp. loosen adaptor screw and straighten
  the buttonhole worker. Run sewing machine
 slowly as it stitches around end of button-
 hole to avoid breaking needle. If buttonhole         CLOTH CLAMI
 worker is not on straight needle may strike
 one side of cloth clamp when attachment is
  set for widest stitch.

ADJUSTING STITCH WIDTH
 Lever at side controls stitch width. Press
 down to move to any of six positions:
 towards W for wide, N for narrow. Use
 wide stitch on heavy fabrics, narrow on
 light fabrics. Make test on Fabric to be
 used to determine most attractive width.
  • Cutting Space Width
Cutting space is self adjusting. Attachment       W. 654321 N gives a wider space as required for heavy
 or bulky fabrics, and a narrow space as
 required for sheer fabrics. It makes a slight-
  ly larger cutting space when set at wide
 than when set at narrow.                          PRESS DONE AND MOVE
               14                             FORWARD.FOR NARROW STITCH,                                              BACKWARD FOR WIDE STITCH



          HOW TO MAKE BETTER BUTTONHOLES

    Check these before starting       Thread machine in the regular way. Nor-
                                      mal thread tensions can be used. However,
   Check needle for size and sharpness.
                                 a tighter lower tension will produce a
 Use fine thread.                                           whipstitch buttonhole effect, and a very
   Thread machine in regular way.                                              free bobbin tension and tight upper ten-
 Normal thread tension preferred.                                          sion will produce a purl stitch effect.
V Adjust presser bar pressure so cloth is     If fabric being used has a tendeney to
   held firmly when clamp is down.                                              slide under the cloth clamp. increase the
                                       pressure on the presser bar slightly by Be sure the sewing machine needle is
sharp.straight and the right size for turning the presser bar cap serew down
ized.threadandbeingsilk used.threadsFinemakecotton.neatermercer-severalbutton-firmly. Seeturnsyourso clothsewingwillmachinebe heldinstrucmore
holes than coarse heavy threads.             tion book on how to do this.
                              15

MAKING THE BUTTONHOLE                                                                           END OF MARKING
                                                                              EVEN WITH LAST
 Turn cloth clamp adjusting knob until                                MARKS ON SIDE
                                                                            OF CLOTH CLAMP
 clamp is fully towards you. Having first
 marked the centerline of buttonhole on
garment with chalk or line of basting,
  raise presser bar and place garment under
  the cloth clamp.
   Using the cloth clamp markings and slot
 to accurately position buttonhole, center
this marking line left and right in slot of
cloth clamp.
End of centerline marking should be oppo-      COMPLETED    CENTERED LEFT  MARK FOR                                           BUTTONHOLE AND RIGHT IN   POSITION OF
 site last line at rear of cloth clamp. This is                    CLOTH CLAMP   BUTTONHOLE
               16


 the starting point for stitching all except
extended buttonholes, regardless of size kes
 used. Lower the presser bar so cloth is held
 taut and smooth under cloth clamp.
Hold upper thread, start stitching, guid-
 ing thread under stitching. Thread can be
held so it will be under stitching around
entire buttonhole, giving extra strength, or
 clipped after several stitches have fastened
  it. Stitch around buttonhole until several
stitches overlap at the starting end. Stitch
around second time for stronger, more
 raised finish. Tie end threads on wrong side.
 Make samples on the fabric to be used be-                                                    CENTERLINE OF
fore making buttonholes on your garment.      BUTTONHOLE MARKED
               17                               BY BASTING

HINTS ON WORKING BUTTONHOLES       RIGHT SIDE
                                                 GARMEN
        IN VARIOUS FABRICS

     • Loosely Woven Fabrics
 • Jersey Fabrics

 Good buttonholes can be made in all types
 of fabrics. However, loosely woven fabrics
 and fabrics which stretch easily such as
  jersey, should have an interfacing of a firm
  fabrie. This interfacing holds fabrie firmly
 so a neat buttonhole is made. The added

Usefirmnesscambriealso orkeepstaffetabuttonholesbetween inwoolensshape.
and rayons; organdy or lawn between light-
 weight and sheer fabries.
                                                                            ACING             18


• Pile Fabrics        • Nap Fabrics
When working with several thicknesses of
 fabrics with high pile or heavy nap. teeth
 of cloth clamp may interfere with inserting
 garment under cloth clamp. This can be
easily overcome by holding a piece of clear
 cellulose, such as cellulose used as window
 in your card case, over the material while
 it is being positioned under the cloth clamp.
 When the cloth is correctly positioned in
 cloth clamp the cellulose can be slipped out
 and sewing machine presser bar lowered to
clamp garment into position. Slide cellulose
 over finished buttonhole when removing          SHEET OF CLEAR CELLULOSE
 garment from under cloth clamp.                  TO HOLD NAP DOWN WHILE
                19                              CLOTH IS MOVED UNDER CLAMP

• Tarlatan for Firmness

  Spongy. stretchy fabries such as crepe.
  broadcloth. and jersey may tend to resist
  or follow the needle. If interfacing is not
  desired or does not completely overcome
   difficulty,of such fabrics.tarlatanHowever,can be usedtarlatanover isthetem-top

  poraryhole is stiffenerbeing made.for use only while button-


   After buttonhole is made tarlatan is easily

 removed hy snipping close along one side  of tarlatan where it is held by buttonhole
   stitch. It will then pull out of stitching very
  easily. Any individual threads remaining                                      DI
  are easily pulled out.
                   20


    • Double-Decker Buttonholes
A raised buttonhole stitch for straight or
keyhole buttonholes, smart on tailored suits                         WIDE UNDERNEATH
 and coats, is made by putting a narrow                            STITCH
 stitch buttonhole right on top of a wide                                    STITCHNARROW TOP
stitch buttonhole.
First make buttonhole with stitch-width ad-
 justor set at wide. Stitch around twice for
extra raised effect. Then without removing
 garment, changing only the stitch width to
 narrow, stitch around the buttonhole again.
Thread ends may be guided under as filler
threads or clipped off as in making regular                                             THREAD END HELD BACK
 buttonholes. A novel effect is produced by      SO IT WILL BE UNDER
 changing color of top thread for each stitch      STITCHING
width.
                 21

• Filler Thread Gives Raised Effect         HOLD FILLER THREAD AHEAD OF NEEDLE                                                     SO IT FALLS UNDER STITCHES WHILE
                                                            STITCHING DOWN RIGHT SIDE
 When an extremely raised effect is desired
   hold a filler thread under the needle as the
  buttonhole is being made. Number 3 DMC
  or a similar embroidery floss can be used
   to accomplish this effect.
   Place the filler thread under the needle so
   it will be caught in the first stitch. Continue  working buttonhole in the regular way hold-
  ing the thread slightly up. directly in front
  of the needle. It is not necessary to move
  thread as the sidewise motion of the fabric
  under cloth clamp will carry stitches over
  the thread. Coming down the right side just
                 22


 hold thread steady directly in front of               HOLD FILLER THREAD*BACK AGAINST
                                                        ADAPTOR CLAMP SO FILLER THREADneedle.
                                                               FALLS UNDER STITCHES WHEN
 As the cloth clamp swings over to work up                 STITCHING UP LEFT SIDE
the left side of the buttonhole, transfer the
  filler thread to the left hand and hold it in
line directly in back of the needle. Hold it
high and as close as possible back against
 attaching clamp or adaptor so it will be in
 line for the needle. Do not hold too tightly
or the filler thread will draw up stitches.
 • Cutting Buttonholes
 Use buttonhole scissors or small sharply
pointed scissors to cut the buttonholes open.
Cut carefully from end to end so none of
the buttonhole stitches will be cut.
              23

• Making Extended Buttonholes

Make an extended buttonhole in two easy
 steps. First stitch a one-inch, open-ended
 buttonhole. Then add the length and end
  in a second step to get size desired in
 finished buttonhole.
  In making an extended buttonhole, use the
 ]e" key for either the keyhole or the
 straight buttonhole, depending on which
 type is wanted.
 For the first step, making one-inch section of
buttonhole, place garment under the cloth
clamp so centerline marking of buttonhole
is centered in clamp left and right. End of
centerline marking, as in making regular
                24



 buttonholes. is opposite last line at rear of
 cloth clamp. Lower cloth clamp. Then set
 cloth clamp by turning adjusting knob so
 needle is opposite 2nd mark from front
    on left side of cloth clamp. it is not neces

 allowsary foroneyouinchto frommeasureneedleit. butto backthis willend
 of centerline marking. Start stitching up
 left side of buttonhole. Continue stitching
 around end and down right side until needle
 is opposite starting point. You have now
  completed a one-inch buttonhole with end
 nearest you open. Put needle down into
  fabric. Hold fabric firmly with left hand.
  (it must not move) raise cloth clamp by            END OE STEP ONE     MARK OR raising presser bar with right hand. Then                                                                RIGHT. MEEDLE DOWN IN FABRIC WHILE
 move cloth clamp by turning cloth clamp             CLOTH CLAME IS RAISED AND MOVED
                  25

adjusting knob. Make almost complete eir.
 cuit but stop clamp so needle is at mark on
 right side of cloth clamp that will give
  desired increase to one-inch buttonhole to
 make size wanted. Each space between the
  marks ahead of needle adds ⅛" to one-inch
  buttonhole already completed. To make a                       ONEONE ENDEINCH COMPLETEDINCLUDING
 1½" buttonhole allow 4 spaces ahead of                            ONE
  needle, that is, your needle should be oppo.
  site the 5th line on the right side of clamp.
 Lower cloth clamp. continue to stitch down
 right side. around end. and up left side.
 stopping exactly at 5th line on left side of clamp. This should complete extended
buttonhole. If you desire to stitch around
 buttonhole a second time to get a more
              26



 raised effect. needle should be down to hold
 cloth so you can reset attachment to start
 of step one and repeat as above.

     Step 1
Start I from up
per end of basting
 on left side opposite
2nd line on front off*
cloth clamp. Stitch                           Step 2upper part of
tonhole.                       Stop, lower needle,
             2 T clothraise clampfoot andadjust.turn
             T    King knob to upper                               right side to con-
                          tinue lower end of
                              the buttonhole.
                27

HOW TO DO MONOGRAMMING

       AND EMBROIDERY


With practice you can embroider with your
buttonhole worker. Use simple monograms
 and designs of even stitch widths of not
more than ½. the widest stitch on button-
 hole worker. Use the 1%6" Magie Key for
a straight buttonhole in the attachment.
 Trace design on fabric. Pin or haste tarla-
 tan underneath. Place a filler thread on the
line so it will be caught in the first stitch.
Use number 3 DMC or similar embroidery
floss as filler.                                                      FILLER CORD GUIDED
                28                                     UNDER STITCHES


 Turn cloth clamp adjusting knob until the
needle is at the top of the opening start.
ing down the right side. When following
straight lines work down the right side.
stop with the needle on the right opposite
 second line from the front end. Lower
needle and raise attachment, turn cloth
 clamp adjusting knob until the needle is
  at the upper right side of cloth clamp.

When curved lines are followed stitch only
 a few stitches at a time, raise foot and turn
  fabric to keep stitching lined-up. Always
 have needle down in material when clamp
 is raised. It is easier to follow a curved
 line if needle is stopped on the outer side
 of the curve when fabrie is to be turned.
               29

UNSCREW KNOB AND
  REMOVE                                                           REMOVE SCREW TO
    KEY                                                              REMOVE COVER





                                               PJ* ON SHAFT

                      PJ GROOVE
PJ° ON COG WHEEL

                                                                           PJ ON SURFACE OF SLIDE PLATE
                                                              ON BOTH SIDES OF ATTACHMENT





                         OIL PAWL AND RATCHET
                     TWICE A YEAR


                        LUBRICATION POINTS
                  • Oil Twice a Year • Petroleum Jelly Once a Year

   Your buttonhole worker has been lubri-must be removed to reach the parts re-
    cated at the factory and with normal use quiring petroleum jelly.
      will need little lubrication. Only one drop
                                     The cover is easily removed by un-     of fine sewing machine oil about twice a
                                           screwing cloth clamp adjusting knob and     year is needed on the pawl and ratchet.
    This is easily oiled through the fork arm removing one screw in top of cover. Cover
       slot without removing cover.                        lifts off. To lubrieate cogwheel that con-
                                                       tacts the Magie Key, turn the attachment
    Other parts may be lubricated with sew-bottom side up and release the retainer
    ing machine motor lubricant or petroleum plate. Remove the key and apply a small
    jelly about once a year. Except for the amount of petroleum jelly to the cogwheel
    cogwheel located under the key. cover with your finger.
                             31