Film cameras
Zeiss Ikon Icarette 500 User manual
User manual for Zeiss Ikon Icarette 500. 17 pages in English. Read the original PDF, download or print a copy without registration.
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Document details
- Brand
- Zeiss Ikon
- Model / document
- Zeiss Ikon Icarette 500
- Document type
- User manual
- Language
- English
- Pages
- 17
- File size
- 0.7 MB
- Category
- Film cameras
- Document date
- Not specified in catalog
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Page 3 · Read text
*.t
C.+
A->
H,+
a +A GK G
A- Spring to release the bottom-board
B- Brilliant view finder
Winding key
D..._ Sight combined with the iconometer
F- Spring locking the back of the Camera
G- Knobs for pulling the front forward
H- Screw for using the rising front
f- Iconometer direct view finder
Stand for upright exposures
Arm-locks to keep the bottom-board in position JI{:s- t- Focusing scale, with lever
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Fig. I
Fig.2
Illustratior?s fo show how trre spool should be insertedView original page 4Page 5 · Read text
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BEFORE USING THE CAMERA
t
Doubtless you are eager . i try your new camera, but if
you can restrain yourself just a little, it will be better to
read the first part of these instructions (as far as "Ge- {
neral Suggestions") before you load, or attempt any pictures.
Become familiar with the various movements and ad-
justments, with the operat.on of the shutter, the finders,
the method of focusing, &c., before the camera is loaded
with film, and it is more than likely your actual progress
in picture-making will be rnore rapid, and you will waste
less film. -
Don't use force
In working any of the movements of the camera or shutter
it is not necessary to use force. The mechanism of the
instrument is adjusted and tested so that all parts work
smoothly and easily. If this doesn't seem to be so when
you first take hold of the camera, the chances are, you
are not "taking hold" in tire right way. The camera is
strongly'made, but forcing is apt to cause damage.
To open the front of the camera
press the button A. The front then springs out and should
be drawn down till it catches with a click. The standard,
bearing lens and shutter, is moved forward by grasping
the two knobs GG just below the shutter. Press the two
knobs toward each other and pull the standard out on its
track as far as it will go.
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Focusirg
The lens is now in position (if the standard is really
drawn out as far as it will go) for photographing objects
at a distance of 100 feet or mcli'e, and if you look at the
pointer over the focusing scale T, you will see that it
rests upon the mark oo or the letters "Inf.", which stand
for "infinity". To focus the !.:ns for nearer objects, the
pointer must be depressed anC moved forward till it is
over the figures indicating the number of metres (or feet)
which the object is distant from the camera. When the
pressure on the pointer is released, the pointer will
snap into a corresponding notch and be held secu-
rely. Focusing should be dor:e with considerable accu-
racy-but more will be said ;rbout that later.
Before closing the camera, be sure fhe focusing pointer
sfands at "Inf." (.Oc).
The stops
Lens openings are called "stops" or diaphragms. The
figures on the top rim of shutter, "6.3", "9"r "12.5", &c.,
or "6.3", "8", "11" are the stop numbers and are so
calculated that each number, starting with the lowest,
denotes a stop that requires half the exPosure of that
bearing the next higher nlmbe,:. For exampll, stop 12.5 (1 1)
is enough smaller than 9 (8) so that it allows only half
as much light to pass through it in a given time there- - fore stop 12 (ll) necessitates an exposure twice as long
as stop 9 (8) to allow the same amount of light to reach
the film. These are F stop rrumbers. That is to say, the
numbers are denominators of fractions of which the focal
length of the lens is the numerator. Perhaps that is enough
to i"y about stops at present. We will refer to them
again later.View original page 6Page 7 · Read text
--
The finders
There are two finders on the Icarette Camera. One is the
well-known "brilliant" or reflecting type, which needs no
special description or explanation. When the camera is
first opened, the finder is in position for making a ver-
tical view. The finder turns on a pivot for horizontal views.
Take care that it is retu:ned to the vertical position
before attempting to c/ose:. the camera. The otherfinder
is of the direct vision type, and consists of a wire frame
at the front and a peepsight at the back of the camera;
The wire frame, when the camera is first opened, l;es flat
against the front of the sh'.:tter. It is hinged at one side
and to be used must be swung half way around. At the
rear of the camera, on the edge directly backward from
the wire frame as extendel, is the peepsight a thin
metal slide, having a round hole, which is pulled- out from
the camera body as far as it will go. In use, the camera
is held so that the eye is directly back of and as close
as possible to the peep-hole. Then what :s seen through
the wire frame is the view that will be included in the
picture. It will be noted that the outline .defined by the
wire frame is not exactly rectangular. but is slightly irre-
gular in shape the irregularities being necessary so that -when the camera is closed the frame may avoid certain
projecting parts of the shuner, &c. The operator will ex-
perience no difficuity, however, by reason of the irregular
outline if he bears in mind that the view actually included
is bounded by a rectangle coinciding with those parts
in the wire frame which are farthest from the centre.
The rising front
This adjustrirent is controlle:l by a milled screw D, at the
top of the front standard. Turn this screw and observe
that by so doing the lens is raised or lowered. The ob-
6
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theject of tbis movement is to enable the inclusion in view of more or less above or below the normal angle of the lens, without tilting the camera. It is employed principally in photographrng krrrildings and architectural suUjeits where tltting the carnera would result' in distortion of parallel vertical lines in the picture. The lens is in norhal position when a white dot on the front standard which b-ears the rising fiont screw is directly opposite a similar white dot on the sitfe of the shutter' .If is important that the lens should be in its normal positioi, with t/rese two white dofs opposife each other, when the camera is o/osed. A valuable and exclusive feature is the use of the di,ect vision (wire frame and peephole) finder. in combination with the rising front, as provided in the Icarette. Ordinarily, the rising front is of doubtful utility whr n applied to a roll film camera, for the operator has no sure means of knowing just how much more is included at the top of the pictpre when the front is raised, and how much less at the bottom and viCe versa, when - the lens is below the nortnal position. The reflecting finder does not show it, but the wire frame at the front of the Icarette moves up or down with the lens, and so shows exactly what is includecl in the view when the lens is above or below its normal position. i Closing the camera There are three things to look out for particularly when closing the camera. Compactness is a Paramount charac- teristic of the Icarette and tl:is is possible only by stow- ing away each part in the smi'rllest possible space every - part, therefore, must be in its proper place. Before clos-View original page 8
Page 9 · Read text
itg the camera be sure that the reflecting finder is in
position for vertical vier,l's, that the lens is at normal
position as shown by the dots on standard and shutter
being..opposite each otheq and that the focusing pointer
is at "Inf.". Then press the two knobs G, togethir, and
push the lens standard bac,k into the body of the camera
as far as it will go. Press down on the arm-locks S, at
each side of bed and the camera will close readily. If it
does not do so, do not force it, but look again and make
sure that all parts are in their proper position if theyare, there will be no difficulty in closing the- camera.
Loading the camera
The Icarette makes a photograph 311+><21/a inches.
The back of the Icarette is removed by taking the camera
in your left hand, front side against the palm, winding
key at the upper side, and pushing the button .$ at the
winding end of the camera, in the direction of the arrow.
Then remove the back by grasping it in the middle with
your right hand. Loading (or removing the exposed film)
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should be done in subdued light, in the house or in a
shady, spot outdoors, never in- the open sunlight. Nor
should the film wound on the spoor, timJprevious
to its removal for development, be allow"a"i "ny to unwind or
become loose. If it does, right is likely to reach the film and spoil it.
The back of the camera, havinrl -atbeen removed, the empty spool is placed in the recess the winding end of ihe
camera. The hinged spool holder is swung o-utward. one end is movable and should be drawn orri f". enough to
permit the empty spool to be inserted. The windini tey
c pulls out fai- inough to permit the empty spool to be
inserted, and when pressed in, the inner or the winding
key fits in the slot at one end of spool.""iThe one end of
the spool, slotted thus must be near the key which fits into it, when it -C:is pressed back into the camera.
wlnd the key to'make sure that it has entered the spool
and turns it. The box and o'ter wrappings having b."r,
removed from the film cartridge, the seal-is broken and
the full spool inserted in the recess at the end of camera
opposite the winding key. The end of paper is drawn
across the back of camera and threaded into the long slot in the empty spool, taking care to start it ex"acily
straight, so that when the wincling key is turned, the eage"s
of ,1. pape.r will be exactly even with the flanges" at spool-ends.
Don't get the paper wrong side out.
It _shoald..fegd -fnom the fuII spoo/ so that the direction I of rotation of the full spoo/ is toward the winding end of the camera. +;
turns only, just sufficient to catch I Turn the key one or two !h. paper firmly, then replace the back on the camera.
ft Yl.-" -doing this, begin with the narrow part of the back, which is even, and place it over the groove on the narrow
and even part of the camera body; then push the other
end of the back, which carries the spring -E, over the part
of the camera body. Pull out the meial stiae which strletasView original page 10Page 11 · Read text
I
I
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the little window in the camera-back. and turn the key
till a hand appears at the window F. Then open the
front of the camera and lower the front so that the bellows
begin to unfold, before winding the film, till the figure I
apPears at the window. The reason for doing this'is, that
when the camera is closed, the bellows may Press slightly
against the film; and ani. friction on the film, such as
drawing it across the fsl'r.5 of the bellowso may cause
marks on the film. For th;s reason it is well'to wind the
film after each exposure before the camera is closed.
rRemoving the expused film
After the last exposure on the roll had been made, give
the winding key several turns,'enough to be sure that the
film on the spool is protected by several thicknesses of
paper. It is just as well, not to. turn the key so many
/imes that the free end of paper becomes disengaged frgm
the spool, before removing the back of the camera. In 'jsremoving the roll of expolred film, be sure that does
not unroll or become loose on the spool' At the same
time, do noi attempt to wind it tighter, for this will al-
most surely cause friction marks on. the film. I
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GEN ERAL SUGGESTI O N S
what has been said up to this point has special reference
to the operation of the lcarette c;-imera. Now some further
suggestions will be offered which apply not only to the
Icarette but equally to the operation of all pocket i"-.t.s.
I{eep the camera and.lens free from dusf. Dirt and dust
are enemies of the photograp,rer especially dust,.: - and particularly to the user of a small i"-"*. In con-
tact prints a few,dust marks on the negative may do no.
harm, but when an enlargement is made, every dust mark
is enlarged too, and makes an ugly blemish on the print.
Be careful, therefore, to dust orrt the inside of the camera
frequently with a clean, lintless cloth or camel's-hair brush,
or both. The lenses should also be kept clean, and should
be unscrewed from their mour:ting occasionally, and care-
fully and gently wiped with a soft cloth (an old but clean
linen handkerchief is good) and afterward dusted with a
camel's-hair brush. Be very carr:ful not to scratch the len6es.
EXPOSURE SUGGESTIONS
Right exposure fies at the very foundation of all successful
photography.
The following are a few sugge:sted exposures for common
subjects that will probably not be iar out of the way.
They are calculated for a lens opening of F 6.3,
should give fairly full light action on speed film. "rra
Outdoors
rnte_nse sunlight, no shadow detail required, such as open
landscapes or views on the water, l/roo second. nrigtrt sunlight, view, but so':re shadow detail requirid, lpen ','so second.
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Open view in light that would be called "cloudy bright",
oi view with near objects that is lighted by sun, but con-
tains more or less shadow detail which should be plainly
shown, l/to to l/zs second, Under trees or on porch, where
principal part of view is in shadow, whether partly illu- l/l to l/to second' tt"a by direct sunlight or not,-it
4 SIndoors 7d{/',t,
Portrait near window,' well lighted and using reflector or
having light from windows on tv!'o sides, l/s to 1 second.
Interior .rie*, well lighted by two or more windows,-10 lightnot shut off by treei or other objects, 2 to seconds.
In the case of interior views it is usually advisable for
the sake of depth (securing; both near and distant objects
sharply) to use a Stop not larger than F 16 and lengthen
the exposure accordingly. R.emember that each successively
smaller stop requireJ a dor.:bling of the exPosure. So that
Fl8 wouta reqrri.e eight times the exposure of F6'3, or
in the case given of a well lighted room, 16 to 80 seconds.
Overexposuie isn't nearly so much to be feared as under-
exposure in the majority of subjects.
Fdrtunately for the photographer who cannot always de-
termine the correct exposure for the Particular subject,
the film provides considerable latitude. If the right ex-
posure for a given subject were' let us say' one second,
probably from half a second to four seconds ^trythi.tg a very satisfactory result.would give
Camera should be held steadY
Much of the amateur photographer's trouble can be traced
to an unsteadiness of the camera at the instant of ex-
posure. This results inevitably in a blurring of the details
itr the picture. It is especially 'important in the case of
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small negatives from which enlargements may be desired,
that the camera be very steady when the exposure is made.'
The use of the wire or antinor.rs release is less likely to
jar the camera than the trigger, and the reflecting finder
is usually better to use than ttre direct vision finder for
comparatively slow exPosures ',vith the camera held in
the hand. Steady-handed peopi.: are readily able to make
as slow an exposure as l/to c,r even l/s second without
moving the camera, but rlzs is apout as slow as most
people are sure of'without a fir:in support for the camera.
LIse a tripod whenever you can
There is no law against using a hand camera on a tripod.
It is really best to use a tripod or other firm supPort for
even a very small camera when it is at all possible or
convenient.
Just hint on developing
If you do your own developing, which iq recommended,
be on guard at all times against scratching or marking
the film, because such marks or scratches will be very
objectionable if enlargements ere made. Don't touch the
face of the film with the fing';rs any more than you can
help, either before, during or after development' or even
after the Film is dry. If you develop the strip of film by
see-sawing it through the soltttion, do it with the face of
film upward so that it will be the back of the film that
comes in contact with the tray. Don't develop too far,
for a too dense negative dor.:sn't usually make a satis-
factory enlargement. When you hang the filrn up to dry,
carefully mop off the superfluous water with a wad of clean
cotton-wet and squeezed or:lt so that it is just damp-
before you begin the mopping operation, and finally,
do not hang the film where dust is apt to settle upon
it during the process of drying.
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nv-
, Compur shutter
giv'es'I'irn:, ttulb and various
rnstant'.yeo'J :'JxDosures.
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F''.rr instantaneous
first of all set the diaphragm
s,.'eie (f) to the stop (aperture)
required, then set the dial (f.)
with the letter I (M) against
the pointer, revolve the dial (R)
in the direction of the arrow,
(fr',rim right to left, never in
the opposrfe drre ction or it
wil! be damaged), till the inrended speed is opposite the
indicator, then depress the le',"er (i) and the shutter is set.
The exposure may be made b5. a pressure on the lever (d)
or by using the cable releasr: which is inserted. at (o).
Long time exposures
Set the dial (t) at'T (Z), opsn the shutter by pressure
on lever (d) or on the cable release. A second pressure
closes the shutter.
Short time (Bulb) .exposures
Set the dial (f) at B and oJren the shutter by pressure -pressure on release. Immediately this ceases, the'shutter
will close.
Nofe. The shutter is autonatic for Time and Bulb
exposures; lever (r) becomes then locked.and no attempt
r,Tlust be made to use it.
The lens apertures, or stopri, are regulated by the small
lever (f), the diaphragm scale and indicator will be found
at .the top of the shutter. behind the dial (R).View original page 16Page 17 · Read text
,. \*-- , +t
THE DIAPHOT
-,ti[o" 1321 l5
A novel and unique Actinometer
For novic: e or exPert
Light and small. For vest pocket or chatelaine.
Perfectly simple. Accurai.e and reliable under all con-
ditions. A novel and useful little instrument giving
accurate exposures for any subject. Simply view
the the subject through the eye piece and read
correct exposure against the diaphragm (f/) values
Din -\ 6
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