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Fujica 35MM CAMERA GUIDE — part 1 Reference guide
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Contents
PART I THE FUJICA CAMERAS
INTRODUCTION g
1. THE FUJICAREX II T4
2. THB FUJICA 35-EE, 35-SE, AND 35-ML 33
3. THE FUJICA AUTO.M 49
4. THE FUJICA V.2 59
5. THE FUJICA HALF-THE FUJICA DRIVE-
FUJICA HALF I.g-FUJICA MINI 63
PART II BASIC INFORMATION
FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS
1. TECHNTQUES FOR BETTER PHOTOGRAPHS 80
2. FILMS AND FILTERS FOR FUJICA CAMERAS 96
3. EXPOSURE METERS FOR MANUAL OPERATION 106
4, LIGHTING 110
5. COMMON SENSE CARE FOR FUJICA CAMERAS 125
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Fig. l. Sara Pentz, Picture Editor of TV Guide, photographed by her eight-year-oldniece using a Fujicarex ll.View original page 6
Page 7 · Read text
Introduction
The family of Fujica cameras has grown rapidly in the
past few years. There are nine models to be covered in this
guide, including a single-lens reflex, rangefinder 35s, and
half-frame 35s. The family is not that diverse, however. The
35-EE, 35-SE, and 35-ML are essentially the same camera
with different features that are explained fully in the text.
The Half and the Drive are the same model, the Drive having
a spring motor as an added feature.
The Fujica camera line consists of instruments of ad-
vanced design, and utmost simplicity of operation, which are
capable of producing excellent photographs for beginners and
advanced amateurs. This is true of all Fujica models: the
Fujicarex II with its "control cluster," the 35-EE and 35-SE
with their coupled electronic light meters, the ML Automatic,
the Auto-M with a patented computer shutter, the V-2 with
CdS electric eye, the Half and Drive with electric eye pro-
gramming shutters, and the Mini, the lightest half-frame
camera made.
The designers of the Fuiica cameras claim but one goal-
to enable the beginner to come up with excellent results on the
very first try. As authors, and experienced photographers, we
decided to put this to the test with a novice. Our good friend
Sara Pentz, Picture Editor of TV Guide, graciously agreed to
work with us, since by the nature of her work she was inter-
ested in photographs but had never taken any herself' At
various times over a period of months, Sara used the Fujica
Auto-M, the Fujicarex, and the Half. When she returned the
cameras, we plied her with questions, and examined the
contact sheets most critically. It was apparent from looking
at Sara's photographs that the Fujica designers had a right
to their claim-for these were certainly good results for a
first try (see pages 6 and 11).
Later she told uS, "I knew nothing about operating a
camera even though I have to know a lot about pictures in
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my job. The first thing I did was to take myself to a quiet spot
where I could read the Owner's Manual-intently, and with
one objective, to understand how to operate that particular
camera. By following directions, I had no difficulty in loading
and unloading the film, in making the few necessary adjust-
ments, or in framing and focusing the subject matter.
"The most important thing, I feel, is getting your enthu-
siasm up to a fever pitch and then taking pictures right away.
Getting that first roll through the camera and on its way to the
lab (or a friend's darkroom) is the first big step. The quicker
you have pictures to look at, the better. It seems to me that
the excitement of taking pictures mounts directly in pro-
portion to the quickness with which you can see what you did!
Once I had that first contact sheet in my hand with 36 (yours
might be 20) potential prize winners, I knew I was on my
way. Then, I went back to the Manual for a review. This time
I was concerned with what I had done wrong-a couple of
technical errors, a composition that could have been improved,
a camera position that would have been better if I had shifted
to another angle. Studying contact sheets is one very good
way of improving both technique and picture sense.
"You want me to tell you some of the things that were
confusing?" Sara asked. We sure did. She went on, "The most
difficult time was with that terrible trio-ASA, shutter speed,
and l/stops. Depth of field, that's another trial, except with
the Fujicarex when I could use the depth-of-field preview
button. That was great. As a picture editor, I love those
photographs where there is a large head in the foreground
and the background is all soft and misty with blobs of light
where it is out-of-focus. I want to do the same thing, but
that depth-of-field table is too complicated.
"Another thing, most valuable to picture-takers like me
are specific examples of just what you can do-in available
light, to stop fast action, when to use slow shutter speeds, and
simple indoor lighting. Portraiture is the most important sub-
ject with me, as it seems to be with most newcomers to photog-
raphy. I'm not ready to get snarled up in flash photography.
I want to know how to take good pictures with ordinary
room lamps, by window light, or maybe a couple of photo-
flood bulbs."
You will see, by flipping back to the Contents page, that
we have covered all of Sara's suggestions and questions plus
a lot more in Part II-Basic Information For Photographers.
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Fig. 2. These photos, and the
one on page 6, were taken by
beginner Sara Pentz with the
Fujicarex ll, the Auto-M, and
the Mini.
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- FUJICA'S QUALITY CONTROL
Fujica cameras are precision instruments. Their quality is
the result of coordinated research, design, manufacture, and
testing in the factories of one responsible company, the Fuji
Photo Film Company, Ltd., of Japan. Fully integrated con-
trol is exercised over each step in the manufacturing process:
from the casting of raw optical glass to the polishing of the
finished lens, from the designing and tooling of shutter com-
ponents to electronic testing of every shutter speed, from
basic research and experimentation to the final assembling of
the camera itself, and from the checking of each separate
part to its testing in synchronized action with every other part.
If you look on the back of any Fujica camera, you will see
a little sticker that says Passed. This means that the rigorous
standards of inspection by the Japan Camera Inspection Insti-
tute have been met. It is this agency, under government regu-
lations, which organized and supervises the inclusive set of
quality controls.
The three-, four-, five-, or six-element Fujinon and Fujinar
lenses used on the Fujica cameras are fast-l/1.8, f / 1.9, and
f /2.8. They are of the most modern design, utilizing "rare
earth" optical glass in their manufacture. The lenses are fully
coated and color corrected. They are capable of recording the
finest detail clearly and sharply from corner to corner. In
addition to yielding high resolution, the contrast qualities of
the lenses yield images with brilliance and snap.
The quality of the Fujica cameras is a reflection of the
company that makes them. The Fuji Photo Film Company,
Ltd., of Japan employs about 6,500 people in every phase of IIphotographic research, development, and manufacture. The
company does not depend upon others for the production of l
components, but designs and builds all of them in its own
plants to assure highest quality control. The main products IIlof this company include optical raw glass, lenses, cameras,
binoculars, projectors, enlargers, cine films, roll films, X-ray 1I
films, sheet films, photographic papers, and photographic chem- It
icals. This manufacturing background means quality in your I
Fujica camera. i1
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
We realize that the majority of our readers will be usingone model of a Fujica camera and logically will be interested lIj
only in the section of the guide that pertains to that camera. Iit 2 lView original page 10Page 11 · Read text
However, in order to avoid needle'ssrepetition of information
that involves all cameras or photographic techniques, we have
included it in what seemed to be the most practical place. For
example, the explanation of the ASA film speed rating is in
Chapter l, although this information is needed for the proper
operation of every other camera. On the other hand, informa-
tion of a general nature-not having to do with the operation
of the camera-has been placed in Part II. It includes Tech-
niques for Better Photographs, Films for Fujica Cameras,
Exposure Meters for Manual Operation, and Lighting. You
will find cross-reference to this material in each chapter of
Part I, The Fujica Cameras.
*,
1 3
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CHAPTER I
The Fujicarex II
The single-lens reflex, or SLR, is a camera in which the
image passesthrough the lens and is then reflected by a mirror
to a groundglass viewing screen. The image is brought into
focus by playing the lens back and forth until the subject
appears sharp. The same light rays used for focusing form
the latent image on film, so there is no danger of parallax
error (the difterence in view between the rangefinder image
and the taking lens in the rangefinder 35mm). Through-the-
lens viewing and focusing enable the photographer to judge
depth of field visually so he can easily take advantage of selec-
tive focus. In other words, with the lens set wide open, say at
f/2, a very small section of either foreground or background
will be in focus with the rest of the picture out-of-focus. The
more the lens is stopped down (moving towards f /16), the
more picture foreground and background comes into focus.
Another feature of SLR viewing is that you see what you will
record with a variety of lenses. Fujica marked its entrance
into the SLR field with the introduction of the Fujicarex II
early in 1962.
On the single-lens reflex, when the release button is
pressed the mirror flips up out of the way as the lens dia-
phragm closes to its preset aperture; the shutter opens and
the image is recorded on the film. After the exposure has been
made, the mirror instantlyrreturns to its viewing position and
the diaphragm reopens fully.
CONTROL CLUSTER
Ever since the first 35mm camera, there has been argument
regarding the placement of camera controls. The Fujicarex II
is the first camera to have solved this problem with the intro-
duction of the control cluster. Most of the previous 35mm
cameras were designed to be held in the right hand while the
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Fujicarex
left hand made the control adjustments for shutter speed, lens
opening, and focusing. This method of operating the camera
seemed most practical, since you were more than likely taking
the exposure reading with an off-the-camera meter, then ad-
justing the controls, then moving the camera to eye level for
focusing. Your hands could then be shifted to the camera
body for maximum support during actual exposure. Cameras
with built-in exposure meters, the needle visible in the view-
finder, changed all that. It became routine, and most practical,
to focus and change the exposure during shooting with the
camera at eye position throughout.
The big problem was how to support the camera firmly
while adjusting the controls. Fuji solved the problem by
exchanging the duties of each hand-in fact, the controls were
shifted from the left hand to the right thumb. The natural
resting place for this finger with camera at eye level is at the
back of the camera just below the rapid wind lever on the
Fujicarex. All of the controls are clustered in this area: the
viewfinder window, the single stroke rapid wind lever, the
exposure wheel, and the focusing wheel.
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4A. Real.yis\/-the "Control Cluster."
48. Top view of camera.
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4C. Bottom view of lens housing.
4D. Bottom view of camera.
Fig. 4. FujicarexIl components.1-6 are the "Control Cluster."
(1) Viewfinder window (14) Distance scale (meters)
(2) Shutter release (15) Exposure counter
(3) Single stroke, rapid wind lever (16) Film-type reminder
(4) Exposure wheel (17) Shutter release and standard
(5) Focusing wheel cable release socket
(6) Shutter speed selector ring (18) Lens component lock
(7) F/stop (lens opening) window (19) ASA selector ring lock
(8) Electric eye light-gathering (20) "M" and r'X" flash selector
window and self-timer
(9) Distance scale (feet) (2t'1 Depth-of-field preview button
(10) Foldaway film rewind crank (22, Standard flash terminal
(11) Standard accessory shoe (23, Film rewind release button
(12') Fujinon interchangeable lens (24) Gamera back slide lock
component (25, Standard tripod socket
(13) ASA selector ring
T 7
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The two horizontally placed wheels fall under your thumb.
The top black one, plainly marked Exposure, changes the lens
opening, and the bottom chrome one, marked Focus, makes
the image sharp. It is no longer necessary to take either hand
off the camera while controlling the distance setting or the
exposure.
LOADING THE FUJICAREX II
Loading the Fujicarex is a simple operation. Having
selected the film you want to use, either in a 20- or 36-exposure
roll, carry out the following steps. Try to arrange a loading
area, especially if this is your first time with a 35mm camera,
that is in dim light and where you have a firm support for the
camera. Get into the habit right now of saving the box the
film came in so you will have it when you remove the exposed
film. It is the safest place to store the film until you can get it
to a processing lab or your darkroom.
1. The most convenient way to hold the camera is with
the lens pointing down and away from you so the camera
back slide lock is at your left where you can easily pull it
down. This action causes the camera back to spring open
automatically. Swing it open completely.
2. Rotate the film take-up spool with your thumb (Fig. 5A)
in the direction of the white arrow until you can see the slotclearly. .ttrr
3. Place any standard 35mm cartridge in the film chamber _!
ion the left (Fig. 58) with the narrow leader of the film at
the bottom.
4. Thrust the end of the film leader into the take-up spool
slot until it catches securely. Be sure the sprocket teeth engage
the film perforations.
5. Hold the film cartridge with your left thumb, using
very little pressure. Press the shutter release button and make
one full stroke with the rapid wind lever (Fig. 5C). This starts
the film the take-up on spool and takes up the slack in the itrfilm leader. The teeth of the film sprocket wheel should now t
engage the sprocket holes in the film. In the event they do not, ,tr
just rotate the take-up spool with your finger until a sprocket
tooth does engage a sprocket hole in the film. As you close
the camera back, check to see that the sprocket tooth has
not disengaged. Press the camera back in firmly to close the
camera. Push up the slide lock so the camera back locks. Note:
the exposure counter on top of the camera is now at "S"
position.
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6. Press the shutter release button and advance the
trigger several times until the number 1 appears in the expo-
sure counter window. The camera is now ready for your first
exposure.
UNLOADING THE FUJICAREX II
After taking the last exposure on your roll of film-which
will be either fi"t.rr" 20 oi 36, depending g-n the number of
frames on the roll-you will find that the film advance lever
swings only partly out and is locked in that position. Do not
forcZ the [rrrr, as this may tear the film out of the cartridge.
i,rrt press in the film rewind button. This unlocks the trigger,
which can now be advanced for the remainder of the full
stroke. The following three steps must be made to unload
the film safelY.
1. To rewind the film into its original cartridge, press in
the film release rewind button (Fig. 6A) until it clicks into
position. (The button will remain in until you use the film
uduu.rr. lever during the next loading, when it will spring
out automatically. ) ihe dot on the rewind button will rotate
as the film rewinds, indicating that the film is going through
all right.
2. Swing out the film rewind crank (Fig. 68) and turn it
in the direclion of the arrow. You will know the film is com-
pletely rewound when the tension ceases and the release but-
ton stops rotating.
3. bp.n the camera back as you did when loading the
film. Remove the film cartridge and place it in the original
box. Have the film processed as quickly as possible'
Fig. 6. A & B. Release rewind button and crank'
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OPERATING THE FUJICARBX II
There are five simple steps to the operation of the Fujicarex
II. These are, after setting the film ASA speed: 1) wind the
film advance lever, 2) set the shutter speed, 3) meter the
exposure,4) focus, and 5) take the picture by pressing down
on the shutter release. Be sure you are thoroughly familiar
with them, and the order in which they should be made. Com-
mitting the procedure to memory, and always following the
same sequence, will permit you to operate your camera with
sureness,ease, and rapidity.
FILM SPEED
The first slep is setting the film speed or ASA rating for
the film you have loaded into your camera. This rating is ,#
clearly marked on the pamphlet packed with the film. On the
Fujicarex II, this setting is done by pressing in the ASA setting
lock and rotating the ASA setting ring until the desired num-
ber aligns with the red triangle. If the ASA setting ring stops
in any position and will travel no further, rotate the shutter
speed selector in the direction you want the ASA setting ring
to move. This frees the ring for further travel.
In case you have been puzzled by the term ASA, it is only
an abbreviation of American Standards Association, and indi-
cates the sensitivity of the film. Thus, the ASA number gives
you a basis of comparison for the sensitivity of one film with
that of another. For instanQe, a film rated at ASA 200 is twice
as fast as one rated at ASA 100. The fast films would be util-
ized when you are shooting in a low-light situation or you want
to stop fast action with a high shutter speed.
The Fujicarex II has a special adjustment for films rated
at ASA 32, 64, and i60, as they do not appear on the ASA
ring that handles all other films rated from ASA 10 to 1600.
The procedure is as follows: Look to the far right in the
viewfinder. Next to the meter needle, you will see two curved
lines topped with the numbers 32 and 160. These are to be
# usedloadedaswithcorrectASAexposure32, 64, andindicators160 film.onlyIf whenyou arethe usingcameraASAis
32 film, the ASA selector ring is set at the number 50; for
ASA 64 film, it is set at 100. After the setting is made, the
exposure wheel is moved until the needle points to the ASA
32 correct exposure indicator. Film rated at 160 requires that
the ASA selector ring be set at number 200, and the exposure
wheel rotated until the exposure needle points to the 160 cor-
rect exposure indicator.
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SHUTTER SPEEDS
The second step is setting the shutter speed, which is done
by rotating the shutter speed selector ring. For example,
if you wish to use a shutter speed of l/ 125 sec., turn the
ring until the number 125 lines up with the red square above
the l7'stop window. If the shutter speed selector ring stops
and will not continue, rotate the exposure wheel in the direc-
tion you want the shutter ring to move.
Many inexperienced photographers are confused by the
terms shutter speed and f / stop. These are terms you must use
constantly, so the meanings should be firmly and accurately
established in your mind. The l/stop controls the amount of
light that passesthrough the lens to the film. The shutter con-
trols the length of time the light will act on the film.
THE F/STOPS
Let's take the l/stops first. The symbol I is an abbreviation
for focal length; the slash indicates that the numeral following
is a fraction of the focal length and the numeral indicates that
fraction. Thus, on the Fujicarex, the f / 1.9 lens means that
the widest effective aperture has a diameter that measures
| / 1.9 of its focal length. The l/stops represent the relative
amounts of light that will be admitted at various openings
on the 50mm Fujinon lens. These stops are 1.9,2.8, 4, 5.6, 8,
1 1 , 1 6 , a n d 2 2 .
The confusion seems to begin when you are told that
changing to a smaller f/number means that you have opened
the lens wider and therefore are allowing more light to enter.
If you think of the l/stops as fractions, it is easier to accept
the seeming discrepancy. For instance, you know that 1./2 is
more than 1/4,so you can accept the fact that f/2.8 is larger
than I/4. You stop down the lens when you shift the aperture
or lTstop from l/2.8 to f/4 and you open, up the lens when
(1/2). (I/4) Just rememberyou from change to f /2.8 f /4
the low doubles t stop toward one full moving that l/number
the exposure, and shifting one full stop toward the higher 1
l/number reduces the exposure by half.
SHUTTER SPEED SYSTEM
The shutter speed system has the same type of progression
as the l/stops-that is, starting with one full second, it moves
by halves as follows: t, 2, 4, 8, 15, 30, 60, t25,250, and 500,
in the case of the Fujicarex shutter. The 1 stands for I second,
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but the other numbers are all fractions- l/2, l/4, l/8, and
so on. As with the l/stops, changing from one shutter speed
to the next means halving or doubling the amount of light
allowed to enter the camera. For instance, shooting at 1/500th#t sec. means that just half as much light is admitted as when
you shoot at l/25}th sec. In reverse, l/3}th sec. allows twice
as much light to enter the lens as 1zl60th sec.
There is a definite and important relationship between
these two sets of lens controls that permits you to obtain
specific effects without changing the overall amount of light
admitted. The automatic cameras use this interrelating of
l/stops and shutter speeds based on the fact that different
combinations of l/stops and shutter speeds give equivalent
or l/ 60 at I/ll.,t exposures.11250at f /5.6Thus, l/125 at f/8 is the exposure equivalent of
CHOOSING SHUTTER SPEED
The second step in operating the Fujicarex concerns the
choice of a shutter speed setting. The choice of shutter speed
depends on two things: the amount of light you are shooting
in, and the mobility of the subject matter. For instance, if it is
a situation where there is little light-early and late daylight
hours, hazy or cloudy days-you would have to choose a slow
shutter speed such as 1/60th.If the subject, on the other hand,
is moving very fast, then you need speeds of L/250th or
,* 1/500th sec.
CHECKING THE EXPOSURE
The third step is concerned with obtaining the correct
exposure for the film and the light you are working with.
Your Fujicarex II is equipped with a match-needle exposure
system with a selenium cell meter. The needle is visible in
the viewfinder window. The electric eye is coupled to both
the exposure wheel and the exposure needle. All you have
to do is hold the camera to your eye and point it at the subject.
With your thumb, rotate the exposure wheel until the exposure
needle points to the correct exposure indicator between "LJ"
'60" (underexposure) and (overexposure), unless you are
using film rated at ASA 32, 64, or 160, as explained previously.
If the exposure needle points to "fJ" and rotating the
exposure wheel does not move the exposure needle, you have
chosen too fast a shutter speed for the amount of light on
your subject. Select a slower speed, then rotate the exposure
wheel until the needle points to the correct exposure.
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Conversely, if the exposure needle points to "O," it means
you are using too slow a shutter speed for the brightness of
the light. Shift to a faster shutter speed, then rotate the expo-
sure wheel until the needle indicates the correct exposure.
We have already discussed how the twin controls of shutter
speed and lens opening operating together regulate the total
amount of light falling on the film. The extent of time that the
light acts on the film is controlled by shutter speed, while its
brightness is regulated by the lens opening. The sum of these
two is the exposure. Correct exposure (and correct develop-
ment) results in a negative, and subsequently a print, in which
there is a long range of tones from black through the interme-
diate grays to white. Underexposure means a loss of important
detail in the shadows and a print that is dull and lifeless. Over-
exposure affects the highlight areas and results in loss of
detail.
The automatic shutter speed/lens opening combinations
possible with the Fujicarex assures you of correctly exposed
film when you point the needle to the correct exposure indi-
cator. Once this has been accomplished, the automatic coupling
of shutter speed and lens opening will be set correctly for a
wide range of picture situations. Notice that as you rotate the
shutter speed selector ring the numbers in the f /stop windowchange. As a faster shutter speed is selected, a correspondingly t
wider lens opening is set automatically. If you choose a slower
shutter speed, the correspondingly correct smaller lens opening {
is set automatically. As long as you are shooting in the same i
light, you can change from slow shutter speeds, as for scenic
shooting, to fast action by simply rotating the shutter speedring; the correct f /stop is set automatically. This is the impor- $
tant interrelating of f /stops and shutter speeds at work, asexplained on page 22-23. Ef
. FOCUSING THE FUJICAREX II The fourth step is the very important one of focusing the Ift
camera so your image is sharp and clear. The Fujicarex II,
with its bright finder image, shows you a slightly smaller thanlife-size viewing and focusing image. The outer Fresnel lined r,t
area can be used for focusing if you are used to a groundglass I
viewing screen. To be absolutely sure of sharp focus, there is
a central rangefinder that gives you a well-outlined triple-split
image. If you have not focused correctly, the subject in the
center area will appear to be split in the middle. By rotating the
focusing wheel, you can line up the subject in the viewfinder.
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DEPTH OF FIELD
You are viewing and focusing with the lens wide open
becausethis yields the brightest image. The lens automatically
stops down to the pre-selected l/stop at the instant of expo-
sure, thereby bringing more of the picture into sharp focus.
This is depth of field in operation. Simply put (a fuller
explanation and a depth-of-field table are in Chapter 1, Part II)
it refers to how much of the picture from.foreground to back-
ground is acceptably sharp. This is controlled by the lens stop
and the distance from the subject. One of the great features of
the Fujicarex II is its depth-of-field preview button, located
on the lens barrel just below the shutter speed selector ring.
By turning it fully to the right as you look through the view-
finder, you can see the actual areas of sharp focus as they
will record when the lens is stopped down. You will notice
that the viewing screen becomes darker and the image appears
sharper. This is most apparent when the pre-selected lens
opening is, say, f /16.
TAKING THE PICTURE
The fifth step is the actual exposure of the film. Be sure,
whether you hold the camera horizontally or vertically, that
it feels comfortable. Your hands should not feel cramped or
unnaturally strained. Your right forefinger should rest easily
on the shutter release button. * The shutter release action is comparable to that of squeez-
ing a rifle or pistol trigger. Carry out this action in a firm
but gentle way. Practice with your camera until you get the
feeling of "play" in the shutter release button. Then you will
know just when you are about to squeeze past the critical point
of shutter release and a click announces that the film has been
exposed. Never jerk down on the shutter button, even at the
highest speeds, or you will risk blurring the picture through
camera movement.
You can avoid camera jar, while taking slow exposures
release. This is a you use a cable if a tripod, on camera-J with shutter thread of the inner into the that screws cable flexible
release button. The other end of the cable has a plunger that
activates the shutter release button. You can also avoid camera
shake by using the self-timer.
MANUAL SETTINGS
The Fujicarex II may be used manually if you feel this is
an advantage. Some photographers do because it permits them
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to "bracket" ( one exposure over and one under the normal
reading), which may be done in full or half stops. This pro-
vides a choice of density with black-and-white film or fuller
color saturation with color film.
To obtain a manual setting, ignore the automatic controls.
Select a shutter speed by rotating the shutter speed selector
ring until the desired speed is aligned with the short red line.
After you have set the shutter speed, rotate the exposure
wheel until the desired lens opening appears in the f / stop
window (Fig. 7). You are ready to make the picture. (Note:
Using an auxiliary exposure meter is discussed in Chapter 3,
Part II.)
Fig. 7. Arrow indicates f/stop number in window.
TIME EXPOSURES
There will be times when you must work in extremely dim
light, requiring exposures of longer than one second. In this 668"case, use the (bulb) setting so the shutter remains open
as long as the shutter release is depressed. On the Fujicarex II,
you rotate the shutter speed selector ring until the 668" aligns
with the red square above the f / stop window. Press the shutter
release, the shutter opens, the mirror moves to "taking posi-
tion," and the lens diaphragm closes down to your preset
aperture. After the desired lapse of time, the pressure is re-
moved from the shutter release, which allows it to close, the
mirror to return to "viewing" position, and the lens diaphragm
to open fully. Thus, you may expose the film for any length
of time. Remember that for time exposures the camera should
be on a tripod or otherwise firmly supported to avoid camera
movement and a blurred image.
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DELAYED EXPOSURES
Your Fujicarex II is equipped with a self-timer that will
delay the shutter release mechanism for eight seconds. (Again,
the camera must be firmly supported.) The device is most
commonly used on occasions when the photographer wants to
be included in the picture or when he is in the field alone and
wishes to add a figure to the scene.
To use the self-timing device, you advance the film and
set the shutter by actuating the film advance lever. Set the
shutter speed and l/stop. Move the flash selector lever to the
"V" position. When you press the shutter release, you will
hear a buzzing sound that indicates that the eight-second
period has started. After this eight-second interval, a click will
be heard, indicating that the picture has been taken.
FLASH-ELECTRONIC AND BULB
The use of synchronized flash is routine procedure with
the majority of photographers today. It is the quickest and
easiestmethod of obtaining adequate lighting for pictures any
time of day or night, indoors and outdoors. You can achieve
many different and remarkable effects by use of flash on
camera, off camera, bounced from a reflecting surface, and
so on. (More complete information is contained in Chapter 4,
Part II.)
Your Fujicarex II shutter is fully synchronized at all
speedsfor electronic flash or Class-M flashbulbs. For electronic
flash, move the flash selector to the "X" position. For flash-
bulbs, move it to the "M" position. Then attach the cable of
your flash unit to the flash terminal. The correct exposure for
* electronic flash can be obtained from the instruction leaflet
supplied (some units have this information on the unit itself$ with either direct reading or an exposure dial) by the manu-$
facturer. For exposure with flashbulbs, use the table on
page 93.
INTERCHANGEABLE LENS COMPONENTS
Your Fujicarex II comes equipped with an f /1.9 Fujinon
50mm or "normal" focal length lens. This means that the focal
length is about equal to the diagonal of the negative area of
35mm film. For a greater part of your photography, especially
when you are a beginner, the normal lens is excellent.
There are two accessory lens components available for the
Fujicarex ll-the f / 4 Fujinon 35mm wide-angle and the
27
www.orphancameras.comView original page 25From the M. Butkus archive. Original publisher and archive notices are retained.
Check the model and edition against your equipment.
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