Mamiya 1000DTL User manual

(posted 4-5-02)

        This is the exact duplicate for the 500DTL except it's top speed is 1/500 sec.)

              TABLE OF CONTENTS

Description of Reference Points ..3

                                     Section 9. The Automatic Lens ..19Section 1. Specifications ..5

                                     Section 10. Changing the Lenses ..20Section 2. Insert the Silver Oxide
Battery ..7
                                     Section 11. Holding the Camera ..21
Section 3. Film Loading ..8
                                     Section 12. Self Timer ..22
Section 4. Setting the Film Speed
                                     Section 13. Flash Photography ..22
..11
                                     Section 14. Rewinding the Film ..23
Section 5. Selecting the Shutter
Speed ..12                                     Section 15. Helpful Hints ..24

Section 6. Focusing and Viewing                                     Section 16. Troubleshooting Your
..13                               Camera ..25

Section 7. Setting the Exposure ..14                                     Section 17. Meter Cut Off Points ..27

Section 8. Depth of Field ..17

Description of Reference Points for the Mamiya/Sekor 1000DTL





1. Self Timer Activating Button                                        9. Film Plane Reference Point

2. Self Timer Winding Lever        10. Penta-Prism Housing

3. Neck Strap Eyelet                11. FP & X Flash Terminals

4. Automatic Reset Exposure        12. Rewind Knob with Rewind
Counter                        Crank

5. Meter " Off " Locking Button     13. Film Compartment Door
                                     Slide
6. Shutter Release Button with
Threaded Cable Release             14. Focusing Ring
Receptacle

15. Depth of Field Scale
7. Single Stroke Rapid Film
Advance Lever                     16. Aperture Ring

8. Shutter Speed Dial and            17. Spot/Average Meter
ASA/DIN Window               System Selector Switch





                                                              23. Rewind Release Button
18. Film Chamber
                                                              24. Film Advance Sprockets
19. Battery Compartment Cover19. Battery Compartment
Cover                                                        25. Film Take Up Spool

20. Tripod Socket                                             26. Film Pressure Plate

21. Automatic/Manual Selector Lever                          27. Hinged Film Compartment
                                                   Door
22. Viewfinder Eyepiece
                                                              28. Film Cartridge Pressure Plate

FOCUSING AND VIEWING:

                       The Mamiya/Sekor 1000 DTL is a Single Lens Reflex. This
                       means that you view the subject through the taking lens.
                           Since the same image is transmitted to the eye as to the
                               film, parallax is eliminated. The subject is registered on the
                             film exactly as it is seen by the photographer.

                          Focusing (Refer to Figure K) the 1000 DTL is made easier
                       by the micro diaprism focusing grid in the viewfinder. This
                                    is the small round area in the center of the finder which
                            exaggerates the difference between the " in focus " and "
                            out of focus " image. By rotating the focusing ring (141 on
                             the lens barrel, the micro diaprism can be made to
                             disappear. When this happens, the image is in focus for
                           both the eye and the film. For subjects with irregular
                               outlines, like wooded hillsides. the entire ground glass area
                            of the viewfinder may be utilized for focusing. In any case
                            (except with infra red materials} when the image appears to
                         be sharp in the finder, it will be sharp on the film.

                    When using infra-red film, first focus the image as above.
                       Then note the distance as represented by the number which
                           appears opposite the footage index mark on the lens barrel.
                           Rotate the focusing ring until this number is opposite the
                           small red mark, and the lens will be correctly focused for
                               infra-red photography at that distance. This is necessary
                          because infra-red film is sensitive only to infra-red light
                               rays, which focus on a plane slightly behind that of
                            ordinary light rays. (If you want IR, go digital !)

SETTING THE EXPOSURE:

                           There are two ways of determining correct exposure with
                               the Mamiya/Sekor 1000 DTL. Whether you use the- Spot
                              or the Average system will depend upon the type of
                                picture you are taking. In either case, before taking the
                               reading, set the Automatic/Manual selector lever (21) on
                               the lens barrel to the letter " A" so that the automatic
                           diaphragm feature of the lens is activated.

                    "SPOT" Reading:
                        The "Spot" method of exposure calculation is especially
                              valuable when the most important area of the picture is
                                 either much lighter or much darker than the general
                                picture area, or in landscapes, where sky light would
                                  register a much higher reading than trees or buildings at
                           ground level. Such a situation would cause under
                            exposure if the subject were to be measured with a
                              conventional, averaging meter from the camera position.
                               " Spot " reading is also useful for subjects under
                                 insufficient lighting such as indoor shots or night scenes,
                            because the exposure meter needle reacts faster under
                               these conditions than during average reading.
                       To obtain a spot reading, set the shutter at the speed at
                          which you wish to take the photograph. Move the
                            Spot/Average selector switch (17) toward the letter " S "
                              as far as it will go (Refer to Figure L).

Looking through the viewfinder you will notice that the small pointer at the bottom of the field is
now on the letter " S " between the meter area brackets. These brackets outline the area of
sensitivity, about 6% of the total picture you are viewing. Focus the lens so that the subject area is
critically sharp. Then aim the camera so that the bracketed area falls upon the most important part
of the picture you are about to take (Refer to Figure M). Make sure that the brackets do not include
any part of the picture that is either lighter or darker than the section you are reading (Refer to
Figure N).

Press the film advance lever (refer to Figure O) toward
                                  the camera body as far as it will go. (NOTE: If the film
                             advance lever is in the meter Off-Lock position, move
                                  lever away from body until locking button (15) snaps
                                   up.) While pressing the film advance lever toward the
                             camera body as far as it will go, rotate the aperture ring
                                 (16) Located on the lens) until the needle at the right of
                                  the finder is centered between the open ends of the
                                reversed letter " C " (refer to Figure P). The exposure
                                          is now set, with the selected area of the picture being
                                   correctly exposed. You may now release the pressure
                           on the advance lever and make final composition
                              changes before tripping the shutter.



"AVERAGE" Reading:
When the scene to be photographed is made up of areas of equal importance, an overall, average
reading will result in the best picture. To accomplish this, set the desired shutter speed, and push
the Spot/Average selector switch toward the letter " A ". The pointer in the lower section of the
viewfinder now for moves outside the Spot Meter bracketed area to the letter " A ", indicating that
the whole picture is being measured by the meter. Focus on the subject area. Center the needle on
the reversed " C " as above, by rotating the aperture ring while pressing the film advance lever.
When taking an " Average " reading, the picture should be composed before the exposure is
adjusted.


Exposure Setting When Using Non-Automatic Lenses and Close-Up Accessories:
When using pre-set lenses, non-automatic extension tubes, bellows, microscopes, or other close-up
accessories, the lens diaphragm must be manually operated until the correct exposure setting is
determined. The 1000 DTL meter requires no special calculations or compensations to read
correctly through extension tubes, bellows or other attachments. The meter reading must be
obtained after final focus, since exposure is influenced by distance between the lens and the film.
Activating the meter and setting the exposure is accomplished as referenced above.

NOTE: You may reverse the above procedure if you wish to take a picture at a particular aperture
for any reason. In this case, instead of choosing the shutter speed first, select the lens opening
desired before taking the reading. Then, center the needle in the reversed " C " by rotating the
shutter speed dial.


DEPTH OF FIELD:
When a camera lens is focused to give a sharp image of a particular subject, some objects slightly
behind, as well as some objects slightly ahead of the subject focused on, will appear to be sharp.
The distance between the nearest and farthest objects, which are in focus, is called Depth of Field.

Depth of Field changes each time the focusing distance changes, becoming greater as the lens is
focused on points farther from the camera position, while decreasing as the point of focus becomes
closer. Other factors influencing depth of field are the focal length of the lens and the diaphragm
opening at which the picture is taken. The shorter the focal length and/or the smaller the lens
diaphragm opening, the greater the depth of field for any given focusing distance, and vice versa.

Proper use of depth of field can enable the photographer to utilize the principles of "selective
focus," which often means the difference between ordinary snapshots and pictures of quality. For
example the proper selection of a "sharp" zone of focus can eliminate an unwanted object in the
background. The same could be true for foreground objects.

When you wish to view the depth of field before taking a picture with the 1000 DTL, set the lens
diaphragm on " automatic". Focus with the micro diaprism as explained before. Then press the film
advance lever as if taking a meter reading. This causes the lens diaphragm to close le. g. stopped
down). If you have already taken the meter reading, the lens is now at the diaphragm opening at
which the picture will be taken.

The depth of field now appears in the finder exactly as it will be in the finished picture. By
changing the focus while the lens diaphragm is stopped down, you can select the area of sharpness
in your picture. When using non-automatic or pre-set lenses, the diaphragm must be closed
manually, but the same results can be achieved.


                          You may also determine depth of field by checking
                                    the scale 115) on the lens barrel (Refer to Figure Q).
                            Numbers representing lens apertures appear at the
                                  near and far limits of depth for any given focus
                                    distance and lens opening.



                                For example, if the standard lens is focused at 30 ft.,
                               one of the lines representing f/11 appears at the 15ft.
                                mark. The other line [again representing f/11) is at
                                    the infinity symbol. What this means is that if a
                                     picture is taken with the lens focused at 30 ft., and
                                    the diaphragm is set at f/11, all objects in the picture
                               between 15ft. and infinity will be in focus. This
                              method is extremely valuable when the lens
                               diaphragm is stopped down too far to allow enough
                                        light for the picture to be viewed through the
                                  viewfinder and depth of field set visually.

THE AUTOMATIC LENS:

                            The standard lens on the Mamiya/Sekor 1000 DTL is
                                equipped with a fully automatic diaphragm. This
                            means that you may view a scene with all light
                                  passing through a wide open lens, but actually take
                                   the picture through a stopped down aperture as
                                   indicated by the meter.

                                  In order for the automatic features of the lens to
                                    operate, set the Automatic/Manual selector lever
                               121) on the lens barrel on " A" (Refer to Figure R).
                         You will notice that after taking a meter reading in
                                   the normal manner, releasing the pressure on the film
                               advance lever causes the lens diaphragm to open up
                                     to its widest aperture. However, when you press the
                                     shutter release button to take a picture, the lens
                                   automatically stops down again to the aperture
                                   indicated by the meter. The diaphragm remains
                                stopped down only for the instant it takes for the
                                exposure to be made, and reopens itself immediately,
                                so that the eye has almost no sensation of having
                               been " blacked out."


The automatic feature of your lens does not work when used on non-automatic bellows or on
extension tubes. In order to read the meter in this case, proceed as explained in the earlier sec

CHANGING THE LENS


                          CAUTION! PLEASE READ THIS SECTION
                        CAREFULLY BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO
                      REMOVE OR INSTALL A LENS.

                          To remove an automatic lens from your camera, first
                                  depress the meter " OFF " locking button. Set the
                               Automatic/Manual selector lever on the lens to " A ".
                                Support the camera (refer to Figure S) body in the
                             palm of the left hand with the lens projecting
                               upward. With a firm grip on the camera body, use
                                   the right hand to turn the lens barrel
                                 counterclockwise until all threads have been
                                 disengaged.

                          To mount a lens on the camera, reverse the above
                                  procedure, turning the lens barrel clockwise until it
                                      stops. Always be sure the meter is in the " OFF "
                                  locking position, and that the threads are properly
                                engaged. No resistance should be felt when
                              mounting a lens. If excessive pressure is necessary,
                             remove the lens completely, and inspect the threads
                                     for dirt or other foreign matter.


If slight resistance is met when removing a lens, grasp the lens barrel as close to the camera body as
possible to avoid accidental damage.

Do not touch the reflex mirror after removing the lens. Dust particles may be removed with a
blower or a soft camel hair brush

HOLDING THE CAMERA


                                   Support the camera (Refer to Figure T) on the palm of the
                                                left hand with the thumb and forefinger curled lightly but
                                      securely around the bottom and sides of the focusing ring.
                                     Place the palm of the right hand against the end of the
                                 camera body. The right forefinger automatically rests near
                                       the release button, and the thumb is on the film advance
                                          lever. Bring the camera up to eye level, and rest it against the
                                    forehead with the viewing eye close enough to the
                                     viewfinder to see the complete subject area. The forehead is
                            now helping to steady the camera. The left elbow should be
                                     held as close to the body as possible.

                            You may compose the picture either vertically or
                                       horizontally and the viewfinder shows the exact format of
                                       the picture. As a general rule, the camera should not be held
                                            at shutter speeds slower than 1/60 of a second. This becomes
                                         particularly important when using lenses of longer than
                                  normal focal length where it may be necessary to use even
                                           faster speeds to eliminate hand movement. At speeds slower
                                     than 1/60, use a tripod or other support to eliminate camera
                                movement.


The release button should be gently squeezed when taking a picture. Never use a plunging or
pushing motion.


SELF TIMER


The self timer (2) provides a method of taking delayed action pictures,
thus allowing a photographer to be in his own pictures.

When the self timer lever is rotated clockwise (refer to Figure U) , 8 it
full travel of approximately 180 degrees, a delay of ten seconds is
provided before the shutter position is released. Shorter intervals may
be accomplished by rotating the lever for shorter distances anywhere
between 90 and 180 degrees. The self timer activating button (1) is
located behind the lever, and is visible only when the p timer is set for
use.

Since the self timer operates independently of the shutter releases
button, the camera may be operated in the usual way, with the' release
button, even when the self timer has been set.

NOTE: If the self timer lever is not rotated to at least 90 degrees, timer
will not function properly.

FLASH PHOTOGRAPHY




                            The flash terminals, marked FP and X (11) (Refer to Figure V)
                                 allows for a choice of flash synchronizations. The selection of a
                                   terminal depends upon the type of flash used, as well as shutter
                                   speed. The following table shows the correct combinations to be
                                used in various flash situations. These combinations must be
                                      rigidly followed to insure correct synchronization.




Flash synchronization chart is not included since flash bulbs are no longer available.

REWINDING THE FILM:
When you have finished taking all the pictures in a cartridge, either 20 or 36, you must rewind the
film back into the cartridge.

To do this, push in the rewind release button (23) located on to,. bottom of the camera body.
(Button will remain inset without pressure until film advance lever is advanced a couple strokes)
Wind the rewind crank (12) in the direction of the arrow until you feel t tension in the film lessen.
That indicates that the film has left the take-up spool. If for any reason you are not sure that the
film has been totally rewound back into the cartridge, continue to hold tension on the rewind
crank and at the same time advance the film advance lever a full stroke. Trip the shutter and
advance again. Repeat this at least 3 times. If you do not feel a tension or pulling on the rewind
crank when advancing the film advance lever, film has been completely rewound. Open the back of
the camera and remove the cartridge.

AVOID DIRECT LIGHT WHEN UNLOADING/LOADING THE CAMERA.

HELPFUL HINTS:

STORAGE
When the camera is not to be used for an extended length of time, store with the shutter un-wound.

This relieves tension on the spring. Lock the exposure meter "Off." Remove the battery.

Never store in areas where temperatures exceed 100 degrees F. or go below freezing (32 degrees
F).

Protect against excess moisture by using silica gel or other desiccant.

Never expose the camera to direct sunlight for extended periods of time.

Avoid areas where exposure to salt water or salt air occurs.

CARE AND CLEANING

Always use a blower or camel hair brush to clear film chamber and area around take up spool
before loading film into camera.

Clean lens with lens tissue and regular lens cleaning liquid only. Do not clean lens at all unless you
notice that it needs it. Avoid rubbing the surface of the lens if there is any loose grit or dirt present.
Never rub lens with tissue alone. Always use a lens cleaning liquid. Never touch the lens with your
bare fingers.

Never rub the surface of the reflex mirror. If there are foreign particles of any kind that cannot be
removed by blower or camel hair brush, leave them alone until a factory approved serviceman is
avails able. Dirt on the mirror can have no effect on the picture.


TROUBLESHOOTING YOUR CAMERA:

The proper operation of a precision instrument like the Mamiya/Sekor 1000 DTL camera requires
strict attention to the correct manipulation of controls. In many cases, the camera may appear to
malfunction simply because some small detail was overlooked, or not operated in the proper
sequence. Before you decide the camera is broken, there are some things you can look for if you
should experience any type of camera failure. A few of the problems and their probable causes are
listed below.

Problem: NOT ENOUGH LIGHT IN VIEWFINDER.

Possible cause: Diaphragm closed. Lens Automatic/Manual selector lever set on " M " instead of "
A " Correct this by moving lever to "A " setting.

Problem: EXPOSURE METER NEEDLE WILL NOT MOVE TO TAKE READING.

Possible cause: Improper shutter speed for film and light conditions. Try changing shutter speeds
until needle moves. Or, be sure there is a battery in the camera. Use only specified type of battery
(silver oxide. Or silver oxide battery may have been inserted wrong. Check to see that terminals are
in the positions indicated in the instructions.

Problem: FILM COMPLETELY BLANK WHEN PROCESSED, INDICATING NO
EXPOSURE HAS BEEN MADE.
Possible cause: Improper loading. Review the section on film loading and be sure you are loading
the camera correctly, with the film being securely attached to the take up spool and winding in the
CORRECT DIRECTION, that is, UNDER the take-up spool. Film may not have gone through
camera at all.

Problem: SELF TIMER DOES NOT OPERATE SHUTTER.
Possible cause: Timer not rotated full 90 degrees. Timer must be rotated to some point between 90
and 180 degrees.

Problem: FLASH PICTURES EITHER BLANK OR ONLY PARTIALLY EXPOSED.
Possible cause: Improper shutter speed for the type of bulb used. Or improper cord receptacle used
for the type of bulb or shutter speed. Check Flash Synchronization tables carefully.

Problem: LENS VERY HARD TO REMOVE FROM CAMERA. STOP IMMEDIATELY!
Possible cause: Pressure on Film Advance lever causing automatic diaphragm actuating plate to
press against pin on back of lens. THIS CAN CAUSE SERIOUS DAMAGE TO LENS. Check to
be sure that the meter is turned " OFF." DO NOT USE FORCE. (Webmaster - the lens should
screw on and off very easily. Two other possible problems, dirt on the screw part of the lens
or the lens has been "cross threaded" It was not put on straight and is ruining the threads of
the lens. Check the lens for any "white areas" around the threads. They are painted black,
and white threads can be an indication that the metal is being cut.)

Problem: SHUTTER WILL NOT RELEASE.
Possible cause: Film Advance lever not advanced far enough. A full stroke is necessary for winding
the shutter. However, a ratchet incorporated within the advance mechanism will allow you to
accomplish a full wind in a series of short strokes.

If any problem listed above cannot be solved in the manner suggested, do not attempt to repair your
camera. Take it, or send it, instead, to your nearest service station. A minor problem could possibly
be aggravated by tampering.



METER CUT OFF POINTS

                                       The Mamiya/Sekor 1000 DTL
                                                  incorporates automatic
                                            disengagement or cut off points for
                                                  the metering system at varying
                                             ASA/shutter speed settings. When a
                                                     certain combination of shutter speed
                                           and ASA points is reached, both
                                              metering systems (spot system and
                                               averaging system) are disconnected,
                                           and in turn the needle immediately
                                       moves upward above the plus (+)
                                                  reference symbol (refer to Figure W).
                                          Changing the shutter speed or ASA
                                                      setting will reengage the metering
                                                system.

(Webmaster - This means that certain combinations of film ASA and shutter speeds can not
determine a correct exposure.
The manual gives no reference points for this but as I remember: ASA 400 film would meter down
to 1/8 of a second. ASA 800 to 1/15 a second)