Sewing machines
Singer 66-6 — User manual
User manual for Singer 66-6. 26 pages in English. Read the original PDF, download or print a copy without registration.
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Document details
- Brand
- Singer
- Model / document
- Singer 66-6
- Document type
- User manual
- Language
- English
- Pages
- 26
- File size
- 25.3 MB
- Category
- Sewing machines
- Document date
- Not specified in catalog
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Page 2 · Read text
18368
THE IMPORTANCE OF USING
INSTRUCTIONS
SINGER LUBRICANTS FOR YOUR
FOR USING ELECTRIC SEWING MACHINE
SINGER
"The Best is the Cheapest"
ELECTRIC SEWING MACHINE
Use Singer Oil on Machine 66-6
Knowing from many years experience
WITH ATTACHMENTS 120607
the great importance of using good oil,
OSCILLATING HOOK, FOR FAMILY USE
we put up an extra quality machine
oil, in bottles, especially prepared for
sewing machines.
Use Singer Lubricant on Motor
The Singer Motor Lubricant is espe-
cially prepared for lubricating the
bearings of the electric motor. This
is a pure non-flowing compound which
retains its consistency and possesses
high lubricating qualities.
PRINTED IN U. S. A. Е.8037
COPYRIGHT, U.S.A., 1915, 1921, 1923, 1924, 1926, 1928 and 1929,
BY THE SINGER MANUFACTURING Co. CABINET 40
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED FOR ALL COUNTRIES
THE SINGER MANUFACTURING COMPANYView original page 2Page 3 · Read text
2 3
Motor Can be Operated on Either Alternating
To all whom it may concern:
Current or Direct Current
The placing or renewal of the name "Singer"
(Reg. Û. S. Pat. Off.) or any of the trade marks
The electric motor, which is located at the back
of The Singer Manufacturing Company on
of the machine, can be operated on either alternat- any machine that has been repaired, rebuilt,
reconditioned, or altered in any way whatso- ing current or direct current, as desired. The
ever outside a Singer factory or an authorized standard windings of the motor are for 110 volts,
Singer agency is forbidden. and motors can be furnished for any voltage between
100 and 250.
DESCRIPTION
Special motors for 32 volts direct current, and
Machine 66-6, for family use, has an oscillating for 50 volts alternating current and direct current,
sewing hook and makes the lock stitch. have also been developed and are available.
It is especially designed for operation by elec-
tricity, having an efficient electric motor attached to Points to Determine Before Connecting
the upright part of its arm, the speed of the machine Motor to Electric Service Line
being controlled by means of a knee lever.
Obtain the following information from the Elec-
tric Light Company which supplies the electric
It is also equipped with the electric Singerlight.
current for the circuit to which the motor is to
be connected:
Cabinets 40 and 306, shown on pages 1 and 8,
respectively, are intended for use with Machine 66-6. 1. If current is direct, what is the voltage? The
When closed, either of these cabinets resembles an voltage must be within the range stamped on the
attractive desk or library table, the sewing machine name plate of the motor.
and motor being entirely concealed.
2. If current is alternating, in addition to the
voltage, what is the number of cycles? The number
of cycles must be within the range stamped on the
name plate of the motor.
The voltage of any circuit and, if alternating
current, the number of cycles, can be verified by
looking at the name plate on service watt meter
installed by the local Electric Light Company.View original page 3Page 4 · Read text
5 To Open Cabinet 40
(SEE FIGS. 2, 3, 4 AND 5)
Raise the two leaves at the top of the table and
the supporting rod will automatically spring out at
FIG. 2
FIG. 3
I'IG. 4. RAISING MACHINE OUT OF CABINET 40
Pull down the knee lever (Q) to the vertical posi-
tion as shown in Fig. 5.
E 8034
FIGS. 2 AND 3. To OPEN CABINeT 40
the left of the table. Allow the left leaf to rest on
the supporting rod and the right leaf to hang loosely
at the right of the table, as shown in Fig. 3.
With the right hand raise the front hinged portion
(K, Fig. 4) of the table, and at the same time place
the left hand under the front side of the arm of the
machine, as shown in Fig. 4, being very careful
not to touch the electric lamp or shade, and
raise the sewing machine head, then replace the 27970
hinged portion of the table and lower the machine
so that it rests on the table, as shown in Fig. 5. FIG. 5. KNEE LEVERONLOWEREDCABINeTTO40OPERATING POSITION
ALSO ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONView original page 4Page 5 · Read text
7
To Connectto Electricthe MachineServiceonLineCabinet 40
Push the terminal plug at one end of the electric
cord as far as it will go on the three-pin terminal
block at the right of the machine, as shown at P in
Fig. 5. Attach the plug at the other end of the cord
to the nearest electric socket and the machine is
ready for operation.
To Open Cabinet 306
E 7965
(SEE FIGS. 6, 7, 8 AND 9)
With the right hand push in the lever (L, Fig. G) FIG. 7. To OPEN CABINET 306
at the right of the table and at the same time with
the left hand raise the hinged flaps of the table top,
Fold back the hinged flaps as shown in Figs. 7as shown at M, in Fig. 6.
and 8, having the catch (N, Fig. 7) enter the spring
clip (0, Fig. 7).
M
6 7966
E 7660
FIG. 8. To OPEN CABINET 306
FIG. 6. To OPEN CABINeT 306View original page 5Page 6 · Read text
8
9
Raise the sewing machine head out of the cabinet
To Connect the Machine on Cabinet 306
as shown in Fig. 4, being very careful not to to Electric Service Line
touch the electric lamp or shade, then turn down
the hinged flaps of the table top and lower the ma- Push the terminal plug at one end of the electric
chine so that it rests on the table as shown in Fig. 9. cord as far as it will go on the three-pin terminal
block at the right of the machine, as shown at P in
Fig. 9. Attach the plug at the other end of the
cord to the nearest electric socket and the machine
is ready for operation.
CAUTION
When you have finished your sewing, always dis-
connect the plug from the electric socket.
To Close Cabinets 40 and 306
Remove the plug from the electric socket, also
remove the plug from the three-pin terminal block
at the right of the machine and coil the electric
cord around the machine.
E8035
With the left hand grasp the machine around the
front side of the arm, turn it slightly back on its
FIG. 9. KNEE LEVER LOWERED TO OPERATING POSITION hinges, and at the same time, with the right hand,
ON CABINET 306 raise the front hinged portion (K, Fig. 4, page 5)
ALSO ELECTRICAL CONNECTION of the table, lower the machine head, being care-
ful not to touch the electric lamp or shade;
then lower the hinged portion (K).
Pull down the knee lever to the vertical posi-
tion as shown in Fig. 9. On Cabinet 40 close the leaves, push in the sup-
sorting rod and swing back the knee lever.
Fig. 9 shows the swing-out drawer at the left of
the table.This drawer is provided with holders On Cabinet 306, unfold the hinged flaps of the
for spools, bobbins and oil can and has a compart- table top and place them into position, then swing
ment for the box of attachments. back the knee lever.View original page 6Page 7 · Read text
10
11
To Ensure Perfect Action of the Machine
turn it until the bulb pin (T, Fig 10) is out of the
notch in the socket, then withdraw the bulb and
The balance wheel must always turn over toward
the operator. shade.
Do not run the machine with the presser
resting on the feed without cloth under the presser foot R S
foot.
Do not run the machine when both bobbin case
and needle are threaded, unless there is material
under the presser foot. SINCER
Do not try to help the machine by pulling the
fabric, lest you bend the needle. The machine feeds
the work without assistance,
The slide over the bobbin case should be kept
closed when the machine is in operation.
To Turn Singerlight "On" or "Off"
Reach over the top of the machine and move the
57963
switch lever (R, Fig. 10) to the right or left as
desired. FIG. 10
To insert a new bulb, pass the bulb through the To Remove and Replace the Bulb
collar of the shade with the slot of the shade up-
ward. Hold the socket tightly with one hand and
tightlyTo removewith onethe bulb,handholdand thewithSingerlightthe othersockethand at the same time with the other hand press the
bulb into the socket with the bulb pin (T, Fig. 10)
turn the shade halfway around until the pin (S,
Fig. 10) for the shade is in the slot of the shade, then in the slot and turn it until this pin is in the noteh.
gently slip the shade off and allow it to hang free as Then slip the shade over the socket, the pin (S,
shown in Fig 10. Fig. 10) for the shade entering the slot of the shade.
See that the pin (S) is in the groove of the shade
Do not attempt to unserew the bulb. It is of
and turn the shade halfway around, or until it is
the bayonet and socket type and does not unscrew.
Press the bulb into the socket and at the same time at the top.View original page 7Page 8 · Read text
12 13
Instructions for Operating the Machine To Take Out the Bobbin
Draw to the left the slide in the bed of the Raise the presser foot (X, Fig. 11) by means of
machine and press the forefinger of the right handthe presser bar lifter (Z, Fig. 11) to prevent injury
to the foot (X, Fig. 11) and feed (W, Fig. 11).
E.5777
BB
AA
FIa, 12. REMOVING THE BOBBIN
E7954
upon the bobbin ejector (BB, Fig. 12) as shown
FIG. 11. FRONT VIEW OF THE MACHINE
above; this will raise the bobbin so that it can easily
Place a piece of cloth under the presser foot and be taken out.
let the foot down upon it.
Genuine Singer Needles should be used
in Singer Machines. To Start the Machine
These Needles and their Containers
Turn on the electric current, press the knee lever are marked with the
Company's Trade Mark "SIMANCO." to the right. As the pressure on the knee lever is
increased, the speed of the machine is increased,
the speed being controlled entirely by the amount Needles in Containers marked
of pressure on the knee lever. Operate the machine "For Singer Machines"
in this way, without being threaded, until you have
are not Singer made needles.
become accustomed to guiding the material and
operating the knee lever.View original page 8Page 9 · Read text
14
15
To Wind the Bobbin
balance wheel hub, and the latch (HH, Fig. 14) will
It is necessary to understand the stop motion drop down and hold it. Then press the knee lever
the same as for sewing.
(EE, Fig. 13) by which the balance wheel DD,
CC
2 DD, HH
GG
5 FF
SINGER
JJ
EE
E7953 4
FIG, 13, MACHINE THRKADED FOR WINDING THE BOBBEX
Fig, 13) enn be relensed when required, thus per-
mitting the winding of bobbins without running * KK
the stitching mechanism. E7952
To relense the balance wheel (DD, Fig. 13), turn
FIG. 14. WINDING THE BOBBIN
the stop motion serew (EE, Fig. 13) over toward
you. It is necessary to hold the balance wheel
The end of the thread must be held by the hand
while loosening the stop motion serew. until a few coils are wound and should then be
Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle broken off. Figs. 13 and 14 show the bobbin winder
(FF, Fig. 14) and push it up closely against the properlythreadedand in
shoulder, having the small pin in the spindle enter bobbin, the bobbin winder is automatically released
the hole in the side of the bobbin. Put the spool of from the balance wheel.
If the pressure of the rubber ring JJ, Fig.14)
thread on the spool pin (1, Fig. 13). Pass the against the hub of the balance wheel is insufficient
end of the thread into the thread guide (2, Fig. 13) for winding the bobbin, loosen the adjusting serew
then up into the lower eyelet (3,Fig. 14) of the (GG, Fig.14) and press the bobbin winder lightly
until the rubber ring is in contact with the hub of
bobbin winder thread guide, into the notch (4, Fig. 14)
and pass the thread through the hole in the left the balance wheel; then tighten the serew (GG). Bobbins can also be wound while the machine
side of the bobbin (5, Fig. 14), from the inside. Press is sewing
the bobbin winder pulley (JJ, Fig. 14) down on theView original page 9Page 11 · Read text
18 19
To Set the Needle
5 Turn the balance wheel over toward you until the
needle bar moves up to its highest point, loosen the
thumb screw (V, Fig. 11) in the needle clamp (Y,
Fig. 11) and put the needle up into the clamp as
far as it will go, with its flat side toward the right;
then tighten the thumb screw. To select the correct
needle see page 49.
To Thread the Needle
SEE FIG. 19 ON THE FOLLOWING PAGE
Turn the balance wheel over toward you until the 2
thread take-up lever (5) is raised to its highest 3
point. Place the spool of thread on the spool pin
at the top of the machine, lead the thread into the
thread guide (1) at the left, down, under and from
right to left between the tension dises (2), into the
small wire spring (3), under the thread regulator (4)
at the left (not through the eye in the thread
regulator), up and from right to left through the 4
hole in the end of the thread take-up lever (5), down
into the eyelet (6), into the lower wire guide (7), 7
then from left to right through the eye of the
needle (8).
Draw about two inches of thread through the
eye of the needle with which to commence sewing.
Instructions for threading the machine for darning E 7951
and for embroidery are given on pages 47 and 48.
FIG. 19. THREADING THE NEEDLEView original page 11Page 12 · Read text
20
21
To Prepare for Sewing
To Remove the Work
Have the thread take-up lever at its highest point,
Let the thread take-up lever rest at its highest
then with the left hand hold the end of the needle
point, raise the presser foot and draw the fabric
back and to the left about two inches; pass the
threads over the thread cutter (LL, Fig. 20) and
LL pull down lightly to sever them. Leave the ends of
the threads under the presser foot.
Tensions
For ordinary stitching, the needle and bobbin
threads should be locked in the centre of the thick-
ness of the material, thus:
E 7969 708
FIG. 21. PERFECT STITCH
If the tension on the needle thread is too tight, or
FIG. 20. DRAWING UP THE BOBBIN THREAD if that on the bobbin thread is too loose, the needle
thread will lie straight along the upper surface of
turad, le bing it slack frowe to hand to thenitle. the material, thus:
thus catching the bobbin thread; draw up the needle
thread and the bobbin thread will come up with it
through the hole in the throat plate (see Fig. 20).
FIG. 22. TIGHT NEEDLE THREAD TENSION
Lay both threads back under the presser foot.
If the tension on the bobbin thread is too tight,
To Commence Sewing or if that on the needle thread is too loose, the bobbin
Place the material beneath the presser foot, lower thread will lie straight along the under side of the
the presser foot and commence to sew, pressing the
material, thus:
kneethe machine.lever (Q, Fig. 5, page 5) to the right to start
When sewing thick material, it may be necessary,
E113/9to turn the balance wheel over toward you by hand
to start the machine. This should also be done if
the machine stops when sewing across thick seams. FIG. 23. LOOSE NEEDLE THREAD TENSIONView original page 12Page 13 · Read text
22 23
To Regulate the Tensions To Regulate the Length of Stitch
The tension on the needle thread should only be The length of stitch is regulated by the large
regulated when the presser foot is down. Having thumb screw (KK, Fig. 14, page 15) at the front of
the machine near the bobbin winder.
To lengthen the stitch, turn this thumb screw over
to the right. To shorten the stitch, turn this thumb
screw over to the left.
To Regulate the Pressure on the Material
E7978
For ordinary family sewing, it is seldom necessary
to change the pressure on the material. If sewing FIG. 24. NEEDLE THREAD TENSION
fine silk or flimsy material, lighten the pressure by
turning the thumb screw (CC, Fig. 13, page 14) on
lowered the presser foot, turn the small thumb nut
(U, shown in Fig, 24, above, and Fig. 11, page 12) at the top of the machine over to the left. To increase
the front of the tension discs over to the right to the pressure, turn this thumb screw over to the right.
increase the tension. To decrease the tension, turn The pressure should be only heavy enough to
prevent the material from rising with the needlethis thumb nut over to the left.
and to enable the feed to move the work along The tension on the bobbin thread is regulated by
the larger screw (AA, Fig. 12, page 13) which is evenly; a heavier pressure will make the machine
nearest the back in the bobbin case tension spring. run hard.
To increase the tension, turn this serew over toward
To Sew Flannel or Bias Seams
you. To decrease the tension, turn this screw over
from you. Use a short stitch and as light a tension as possible
When the tension on the bobbin thread has been on the needle thread so as to leave the thread loose
enough in the seam to allow the goods to stretch once properly adjusted, it is seldom necessary to
change it, as a correct stitch can usually be obtained if necessary.
by varying the tension on the needle thread.
A Stitch to Ravel Easily
To Turn a Corner can be made, if desired, by having the tension
on the needle thread so light that the bobbin thread Stop the machine when the needle is commencing
will not draw into the goods but lie straight, as its upward stroke. Raise the presser foot and turn
shown in Fig. 23, page 21.
the work as desired, using the needle as a pivot,
then lower the presser foot.View original page 13Page 14 · Read text
24 25
To Oil the Machine
Take out the thumb screw (MM, Fig. 25, page 24)
To ensure easy running, the machine and stand near the lower end of the face plate, raise the plate
require oiling and if used continuously should be and slip it off over the head of the serew near the
upper end of the plate; put one drop of oil into each
of the oil holes and joints.
At the back of the machine is a round plate or
cover, fastened by a thumb screw; loosen the serew,
SINGER
turn the plate upward and fasten by tightening the
screw; turn the balance wheel slowly and oil the
moving parts inside, then turn the cover down and
MM fasten it as before.
£ 7976
FIG. 25, FRONT VIEW, SHOWING OILING POINTS
oiled each day. With moderate use, an occasional
oiling is sufficient. Oil should be applied at each
of the places shown by arrows in Figs. 25 and 26. £ 4563
One drop of oil at each point is sufficient. Oil holes FIG. 26. OILING POINTS IN BASE OF MACHINE
are provided in the machine for bearings which
cannot be directly reached.
To oil the mechanism under the slide, draw the To reach the parts underneath the bed of the
machine, turn the machine back on its hinges andslide (see Fig. 25) to the left and after removing the
lint and dust which may have accumulated (see apply oil to the oil holes and bearings indicated
instructions on pages 27 to 30, inclusive) put a by the arrows in Fig. 26.
few drops of oil on the small piece of felt at the
right of the bobbin ejector. The slide should then
be elosed.View original page 14Page 15 · Read text
26
27
To Lubricate the Motor
To Clean the Stitch Forming Mechanism
NEVER USE OIL ANYWHERE ON THE
MOTOR. When the machine is shipped from the After considerable use, the stitch forming mech-
anism of the machine may become clogged with
lint and this may interfere with the perfect opera-
tion of the machine.
+ G G Occasionally remove the bobbin case from the
machine, as instructed below and on the following
page, and remove any lint, etc., which has accumu-
lated in the machine.
To Remove the Bobbin Case
(OPERATOR BEING AT THE FRONT OF THE MACHINE)
7364
Raise the needle to its highest point by turning
FIG, 27, MOTOR GREASy TURES the balance wheel over toward you. Draw the
alide plate (NN, Fig. 28) slightly to the left, then
factory, the two motor grense tubes (GG, Fig. 27) lift its right hand end and draw it toward the
are filled with sufficient lubricant for approximately needle until it is disengaged from the spring in the
six months' use, under ordinary circumstances. bed of the machine.
At least once every six months thereafter, these
grease tubes should be refilled with the Singer
Motor Lubricant, furnished with the machine. To
do this, insert the tip of the tube of lubricant into NN
the hole at the top of each of the grease tubes
and force the lubricant through each hole until
both grease tubes are filled.
To Lubricate the Controller
Also occasionally lubricate the bearing points of
the controller mechanism located beneath the ma- 7971
chine at the right of the cabinet.
FIG. 28. SLIDE REMOVEDView original page 15Page 16 · Read text
29 28
To Replace the Bobbin Case
00 (OPERATOR BEING AT THE FRONT OF THE MACHINE)
See that the needle is raised to its highest point
and that the latch (00, Fig. 31) is raised from the
slot (PP, Fig. 31) and moved toward you.
PP
E7972
FIG, 29.RAISING THE LATCH
Insert the nail of the forefinger of the left hand
under the latch (00, Fig. 29), raise the latch just
high enough to clear the edge at (PP, Fig. 29) RE
and then move it toward you.
Under no circumstances must the screw
The loosening of this 00
Brey will change the end or lose bet thin
the bobbin case and bobbin case position bracket.
87974
FIG. 31. SHOWING THE BOBBIN CASE
POSITION BRACKET
Hold the bobbin case between the forefinger and
thumb of the left hand, as shown in Fig. 30. Insert
the forked end of the bobbin case under the throat
plate so that the fork straddles the end of the
FIG. 30. REMOVING THE BOBBIN CASE
Hold the bobbin case between the forefinger and bobbin case position bracket (RR, Fig. 31). Then
the thumb of the left hand as shown in Fig. 30. Tit with a slight twisting motion of the bobbin case
the bobbin case to the left and at the same time to the left and to the back, lightly press it down-
slightly turn the right or forked end toward you
so that it is moved out of engagement with the wardly until the edge of the sewing hook engages
in the groove under the rim of the bobbin case. sewing hook. Then tilt the bobbin case toward
the right and remove it (see Fig. 30).View original page 16Page 17 · Read text
30
31
Having set the bobbin case into the correct
position, lock the latch (00, Fig. 31) in the notch
(PP, Fig. 31) to hold the bobbin case in place. HINTS
Machine Working Heavily. If the machine
runs hard after standing idle for some time, use a
little kerosene in the oiling places, run the machine
rapidly, then wipe clean and oil.
To Avoid Breaking Needles. See that the
SS
presser foot or attachments are securely fastened by
the thumb screw. Do not sew heavy seams or very
thick goods with too fine a needle. A large needle
and thread to correspond should be used on heavy
work (see page 49).
See that the needle is not bent and avoid pulling
1975
the material when stitching.
FIG, 32. REPLACING THE SLIDE Breaking.of Needle Thread. If the needle
thread breaks it may be caused by:
Then replace the slide from the right, as shown
in Fig. 32, being careful to see that the two ends Improper threading.
of the spring (SS, Fig. 32) enter the grooves on the Tension being too tight.
The thread being too coarse for size of needle.underside of the slide.
The needle being bent, having a blunt point,
Genuine Singer Needles should be used
or being set incorrectly. in Singer Machines.
These Needles and their Containers Breaking of Bobbin Thread. It the bobbin
are marked with the
thread breaks it may be caused by:
Company's Trade Mark "SIMANCO."
Improper threading of bobbin case.
Tension being too tight.
Needles in Containers marked
Skipping of Stitches. The needle may not be
"For Singer Machines"
accurately set into the needle bar or the needle may
are not Singer made needles. 2 be blunt or bent. The needle may be too small for
the thread in use.View original page 17Page 18 · Read text
32 33
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING THE FOOT HEMMER-Hemming and Sewing
ATTACHMENTS on Lace
FOOT HEMMER Hemming Start the hem as previously explained, and when
it is well started, raise the needle to its highest point.
Raise the needle to its highest point. Remove
the presser foot and attach the foot hemmer in its
FIG. 34
FIG. 33 Raise the hemmer to relieve its pressure on the hem,
pass the end of the lace through the slot in the side
place (see Fig. 33). Clip off the right hand corner
of the hemmer, under the back of the hemmer and
of the cloth, so that it will take the roll easily, turn
over the hem, as shown in Fig. 34.
up the edge about a quarter of an inch, insert it in
Take care that the hem is not displaced in the
the mouth of the hemmer and draw or push it along
hemmer and that the needle goes down through the
until under the needle. Then let down the presser
lace and hem together. Then let down the presser
bar and after taking two or three stitches, draw
bar and guide the lace over the front of the hemmer,
gently on the ends of the threads to help the work keeping it well into the slot.
along till the feed catches it. In order to produce
a smooth even hem, the mouth of the hemmer must
be kept just full. FOOT HEMMER-Felling
Fig. 33 also shows what is known as a bag seam The two pieces of cloth to be felled should be laid
or fell, made by passing two pieces of fabric through one over the other, right sides together, the edge
the hemmer together and hemming them down. of the under piece being a little farther to the rightView original page 18Page 20 · Read text
36
37
ADJUSTABLE HEMMER-Wide Hemming
instead of on the edge (see Fig. 39). After loosening To make a hem more than 1 inch wide, loosen
the binder set screw and adjusting the binder, the the thumb screw in the hemmer and move the scale
2: 5120
FIG. 39
Fra, 38
line of stitching can be brought nearer the centre,
to the right as far as it will go, then swing is toward this being more effective when making French folds.
you as shown in Fig. 38 and tighten the thumb
screw. Fold and crease down a hem of the desired TUCKER
width; pass the fold under the extension at the right
Retrove the presser foot and attach the tucker
of the hemmer, and the edge into the folder as
in its place. The width of the tuck is determined
shown in Fig. 38, and proceed to stitch the hem.
by the scale of figures nearest the needle, which
shows in eighths and sixteenths of an inch the dis-
BINDER-Binding
tanceTheofcreasethe edgeor ofmarkthe forfoldthefromsecondthe lineandoffollowingstitching. Remove the presser foot and attach the binder in
tucks is determined by the scale nearest the operatorits place.Pass the binding through the scroll of
and this is set by the line in front of the needle holethe binder and draw it back under the needle.
Place the edge of the goods to be bound between
inadjustthe presserthe scalefoot.nearestFor blindthe operatortucks withoutso thatspaces,thethe scrolls of the binder and draw it under the needle.
figure opposite the line on the presser foot will be
Lower the presser bar and sew as usual. To make the same as that at which the guide is located on
French folds, proceed as directed for binding except the scale nearest the needle. To make spaces be-
that the fold is stitched on the face of the material tween the tucks, move the front scale farther to the
left until the desired space is obtained.View original page 20Page 21 · Read text
38 39
Ruffler
Having adjusted the scales for tuck and space as
Lines 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 shown in Fig. 41 indicate
desired, fold the material and crease by hand; pass
where the material is to be placed for various
operations, as follows:
B
F
E
E 5115
FIG. 40
the folded edge between the spring and spur near
you, then between the two blades of the second
scale, and back under the presser foot; draw to the
right against the guide, lower the presser bar; see 5
that the lever which the needle clamp strikes is in its
backward position so as to form a crease for the 32 E 7801
next tuck, then proceed with the first tuck.
For the second tuck, fold carefully at the crease FIG. 41. THE RUFFLER AND ITS PARTS
made by the spur and place the edge of the first tuck
underneath and against the spur at the left. The Line 1-the correct position for the material to
spur will serve as a guide and will also make a which the ruffled material is applied.
distinet crease for the next tuck. Always place the
Line 2-material to be ruffled.
last tuck against the spur to ensure perfect work.
Line 3-the facing for the ruffle.
When making the last tuck, the lever upon which
Line 4- the strip of piping material.
the needle clamp strikes while tucking should be
Line 5—the edge to be piped.
raised to its highest point; while the lever is in this
position no crease for a sueceeding tuck is made Refer to Fig. 41 when inserting the material in
the ruffler.
upon the goods.View original page 21Page 22 · Read text
40 41
The names and uses of the principal parts of the To Adjust the Ruffler for Gathering
ruffler are as follows:
(SEE REFERENCES IN FIG. 41) The adjusting finger (F, Fig. 42) is not intended
for gathering and should be moved forward or away
A—Foot-the part by which the ruffler is attached from the needle, as shown in Fig. 42.
to the presser bar.
B-FORK ARM the section that must be placed
astride the needle clamp.
C-ADJUSTING SCREW-—the screw that regulates the
fullness of the gather
D-PROJECTION -the part that projects through the D
slots in the adjusting lever.
E- ADJUSTING LEVER-—the lever that sets the ruffler
for gathering or for making a plait once at
every six stitches or once at everytwelve
stitches, as desired; also for disengaging the
ruffler,when either plaiting or gathering is E
not desired.
F-ADJUSTING FINGER-the part which regulates
the width or size of the plaits. 3 7828
G-SEPARATOR GUIDE- the guide on the underside
of the ruffler, containing slots into whic the
FIG. 42
edge of the material is placed to keep the
heading of the rufile even; also for separating
the material to be ruffled from the material to
which the ruffle is to be attached.
H-RUFFLING BLADE the upper blue steel blade Fig, 42) will
with the teeth at the end to push the material enter the slot marked "j" in the adjusting lever (E)
in plaits up to the needle. when the lever is released The ruffling blade will
J-SEPARATOR BLADE the lower blue steel blade then move forward and back once at every stitch.
without teeth, which prevents the teeth of the Insert the material to be ruffled between the two
ruffling blade coming into contact with the blue blades, following the line 2 in Fig. 41. Draw
feed of the machine, or the material to which the material slightly back of the needle, lower the
presser bar and commence to sew. ruffle or plaiting is to be applied.
To make fine gathering, shorten the stroke of the
To Attach the Ruffler to the Machine ruffling blade by turning the adjusting screw C, Fig
42) upwardly; also shorten the stitch. To make full Raise the needle bar to its highest point and re-
move the presser foot. Attach the ruffler foot A,
Batting, lent en the strerescrew to(C)doingdownwardly,alady, Fig. 41) to the presser bar by means of the thumb
also lengthen the stitch. By varying these adjust- screw, at the same time placing the fork arm
ments, many pleasing varieties work can be (B, Fig. 41) astride the needle clamp as shown in
Fig. 42. accomplished.View original page 22Page 23 · Read text
42
To Make a Ruffle and Sew it to a
the ruffle so that the wrong sides are together. Garment in One Operation If
the facing is to be on the wrong side, place the right
sides of the garment and the ruffle together.
Insert the material to be ruffled between the two
blue blades, as shown in Fig. 43, following the line
FIG. 44
17030 Piping a Ruffle
FIG, 43 Insert the material to be ruffled between the two
blue blades, following the line 2, in Fig. 41. This
2ufollowingto 15theto lineb2 cho1, in thuFig. 41.getProceedthat partithe bisametho
as for gathering.
The edge of the ruffled seam can be bound by
using the binder.
To Ruffle and Sew on a Facing
in One Operation
Insert the material to be ruffled between the two
ble salades, ol which the rue 2, is to be attached,
2 7837 underFig. 41.thePlaceseparatorthe materialblade, followingfor the facingthe lineover1,the
upper blue blade, as shown in Fig. 44.following FIG. 45
the line 3, in Fig. 41. The facing may be straight
or bias material. If the facing is to be on the material must not be over 1¼ inches wide,
right side of the garment, place the garment and it is carried through the ruffler with the finishedView original page 23Related documents and language editions
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