Singer 99 — User manual

Form K1810              This book should be carefully
(347)                         preserved for reference




            INSTRUCTIONS


                FOR USING

 SINGER SEWING MACHINES

      No. 99

 OSCILLATING HOOK, FOR FAMILY USE





     When requiring                  Look for the
    Needles. Oil,                 Red "S"
    Parts or Repairs                    There are Singer
     for your machine                  Shops in every City





  THE SINGER MANUFACTURING CO.





                                                                                                IS AUNTESSIELSERIESELESSEEN

All Rights Reserved                      Printed in Great Britain

WARNING

    It is essential that your machine
 should be kept well oiled, in accordance
 with the instructions given on pages 14
and 15 of this book.
  Singer Oil, which is specially pre-
 pared for sewing machines, is supplied
 in tins which have the well-known
Singer Red "S" printed thereon,

   Singer Needles are stamped with the
Company's Trade Mark "Simanco"
 and are sold in green packets which also
 bear the Singer Red Letter "S  .?*

   Needles in Containers marked
      "For Singer Machines"

   are not Singer made needles.

   Should your machine require over-
 hauling or repair, apply only to a
 Singer Shop or Singer Salesman,
otherwise you will risk its being irre-
 trievably damaged.

  Every description of sewing machine
 repaired, or exchanged.

Form K1810

 To all whom it mav concern:
  The placing or renewal of the trade-mark
"SINGER " or°any other of the trade-marks
 of The Singer Manufacturing Company (all
 of which are duly Registered Trade-marks)
 on any machine that has been repaired, rebuilt,
 reconditioned, or altered in any way whatso-
 ever outside a Singer factory or an authorised
 Singer agency is forbidden.

         SINGER SERVICE
  Now that you have purchased your new
 Singer Sewing Machine we do not want you to
 feel that vour relations with us have come to
 an end.
   The following instructions are worded so
 that they may be easily understood by every-
 one, and we would suggest that you study
 them carefully in order that you may obtain
 the fullest use and pleasure from your sewing
 machine. If, however, you require further
 assistance we would ask you to call at the
 local Singer Shop where advice will always
 be willingly given in the use of any Singer
 Machine and its Attachments.
  We hope, too, that you will make the Singer
 Shop your headquarters for sewing supplies
 and service. Only there, or through Singer
 authorised representatives, can you secure
 genuine Singer oil, cotton, needles, etc. all
 of which are so important in obtaining the
  best results from your sewing machine.

HAVE YOU SEEN THE
SINGER MOTOR?





      K31715
     One screw attaches it to your machine
 Guts out all fatigue!
   Both hands free to guide work!
     Makes sewing a pleasure!
        Better work done in half the time!
 And then, after dark, there is the
 SINGERLIGHT
 which, by showing the stitching more
  clearly, prevents eyestrain and saves time
  and annoyance when threading the needle

      Any Singer Shop or Singer Salesman
                will tell you all about them

The Hand Attachment





                                       K3373
         Fig. 1.                      Fig. 2.

WHEN thethe handcoverattachmentis removedwillfrombe foundthe machine,to be out

        of working position, as shown in Fig. 1. To
 operate the machine, pull the small spring stud

 (2, Fig. 1) and turn the handle back until the lever
 (1, Fig. 1) enters the socket (3, Fig. 1); also see
 that the hinged finger (4, Fig. 2) is turned back
 between the spokes of the wheel. The machine will
 then be ready for working, as shown in Fig. 2.

   Before replacing the cover, the lever should be
 disengaged, and the handle placed in the position
 shown in Fig. 1.

Balance Wheel Stop Motion


  This device allows the balance wheel to run free, so
                            that bobbins may
                          be wound without
                    operating the
                         mechanism.  To
                              loosen the wheel,
                            hold it with the
                      left hand, and
                        with the right
                               hand turn the stop
                         motion screw over
                       towards you, as
             K 3031 shown in Fig.3.
              Fig. 3.

      To Operate the Hand Machine
   Tighten the balance wheel and place a piece of
 material under the presser foot (8, Fig. 5). Then
 lower the latter by means of the lifter (4, Fig. 5).
Now turn the handle over from you to work the
 machine, without its being threaded, until you are
accustomed to guiding the material with the left
hand.

   The advantages of an electric machine, are:
 Higher speed, and, both hunds being free, a greater
 variety of work. A Singer Motor may be applied to
your machine at any time. (See bage 2 of this book.)

5

  To Ensure Perfect Action of the Machine

  Do not work the machine with the presser foot

lowered or with the needle threaded, except when

sewing.



  The slide (4, Fig. 6) must be kept closed.

           To Set the Needle
                 (See Fig. 4)
                              Raise the needle
                              bar to its highest
                           point and loosen
                         the thumb screw
                           (A). Hold the
                                  needle with the left
                            hand and, with its
                               flat side to the
                                   right, insert it into       Flat
         Side.        Enlarged     the needle clamp                 View of
                        Flat Side.      (B) as far as it will
               K4155            gO.  Then re-
                             tighten the thumb
       Fig. 4.  Positioning Needle     screw.
            in Needle Clamp.

6

           To Thread the Needle
                   (See Fig. 5)

  Turn the balance wheel until the lever (9) is at
its highest. Place a reel of thread on the spool pin
and pass the thread through the guide (10), down
and from right to left under and between the
                       tension discs (12), over
          9   theleft ofsmallthe discsspringand (6)underat
 2.        10  the slack thread regulator
                    * (13).  Then pass the
                        thread up and from right
                        to left through the hole
                       in the lever (9), down
         6  into the eyelet (5), into                       the guide (7), and from
                            left to right through the
                      eye of the needle, leaving
                 an end three or four
 5.                     inches long.
17.                 11  *NOTE-For darning
             13 12  and embroidery work, pass
                            the thread through. the hole
 7..                    ... 14      in the slack thread regula-
                  * 15       tor (13), instead of under it.
 8- O)L     ***'1.68.KI9GI it isToabsolutelyobtain best neces-results
            Fig. 5.          sary that the needle used
be of the size stated for the number of cotton,
linen or silk, as shown on inside of back cover.

 If rough or uneven thread is used, or if it passes

with difficulty through the eye of the needle, the
machine will not function satisfactorily.

  The Singer Needle Threader saves time,
trouble and patience, and is invaluable to those

having defective sight.

To Take Out
the Bobbin

   Draw the slide
 (4, Fig. 6) to the
 left and press the
 forefinger of the
 right hand upon
 the bobbin ejector,
as shown in Fig. 6.
 This will raise the
 bobbin so that itcan be easily       4      K4208
taken out.
                                    Fig. 6.
          To Wind the Bobbin
                    (See Fig. 7)
  Loosen the balance wheel (see Fig. 3) and place a
reel of thread on the spool pin. Place an empty
 bobbin on the spindle (1) and turn the former until
 the hole in its right side engages the pin in the
 spindle shoulder.  Now pass the end of thread
                     through the guide (10,
     3              Fig. 5), up into the eyelet     2                (5), into the notch (2)
                  and.from the inside,
                    through the hole in the
                          left side of the bobbin.
                   Hold the end of thread
                    with the left hand and
                     with the right press the
                     pulley (6) against the
                         ledge of the balance wheel
                            until the latch retains the
                     winder in position. Turn
                       the balance wheel over
                        *1316   towards you a few times,
            Fig. 7         then break off the end of

thread and açain operair the machinc.  The winder
 stops automatically when the bobbin is full. Re
 tighten the balance whel for sewing.

   If the pressure of the rubher ring against the
 ledge of the balance wheel is insufficient for windin
 the bobbin, loosen the screw (3) and press winder
 lightly until the pulley (6) is in contact with the
ledge.  Then retighten the screw. Afterwards
 push the Jatch to release the winder from contact
 with the balance wheel.



 To Replace the Bobbin in the Bobbin Case

  Take the bobbin between the thumb and fora-
finger of the left hand, with the end of the thread
 leading from the top to the left, and in this position
                                replace it in the bob-
                             bin case, as shown in
                          Fig. 8. Draw the
                             thread into the slot
                                  (2, Fig. 6), hack be-
                            tween the spring and
                                thesideof the bobbin
                               case until it reaches;
                             the notch (3, Fig. b),
                             then across the bot-
                        bin and into the
                   K4209 notch in slide (4,
                                  Irig. 6). Now close
                Fig. 8.           the latter.

9
  To Clean the Stitch-forming Mechanism
   If the stitch-forming mechanism should become
clogged with lint and interfere with the perfect
 operation of the machine, remove the bobbin case,
 as described in the following instructions, and dis-
lodge the lint accumulated in the machine.

     To Remove the Bobbin Case
                 (See Fig. 9)
   Raise the needle to its highest point, and remove
the slide (4, Fig. 6) by drawing it to the left as far as
 it will go and raising its front edge.
   First remove the
bobbin from the
bobbin case, then
 insert the nail of
 the left forefinger
under the latch
"B."  Raise the
 latter and draw it
towards you on to
the edge  "A."Hold the bobbin                  A B   K2721case between the
thumb and fore-                   Fig. 9.
 finger of the left hand, at the edge nearest the latch

       "B," as shown in Fig. 9, and lift it out towards you.

  Under no circumstances must the screw in latch "B'
 be loosened, as this would put the stitch-forming
 mechanism out of adjustment.

10

        To Replace the Bobbin Case

                                 Raise the needle
                      to its highest
                        point, with the
                               latch (B, Fig. 10)
                        in the position
                               illustrated. Hold
                          the bobbin case
                             between the fore-
                          finger and thumb
                           of the left hand,
                                  at the edge farthest
B                 K2722 partfrom(astheshownforkedin
                 Fig. 10.             Fig. 10), and insert
                             the latter beneath
 the throat plate so that thefork straddles the position
 stud; then, with a slight twisting motion of the
 fork to the left and to the back, lightly press down
 the bottom case until the edge of the sewing hook
 engages in its groove.
  Having correctly
 inserted the bob-
 bin case, move the
 latch (B, Fig. 10)
 into the notch to
hold the bobbin
 case in position,
 and then replace
the slide from the
 right, as shown in
Fig. 11, being care-
 ful to see that the
 two ends of the
 flat spring (A, Fig.
 11) enter the grooves                       K2723
 on the underside of
the slide.                          Fig. 11.

11

         To Prepare for Sewing
  With the left hand hold the end of the ncedle
 thread, leaving it slack from the hand to the
 needle. Turn the balance wheel over towards you
 for the needle tö
move down and
 up again to its
highest.  Pull the
 thread you are
 holding, and the
 under thread will
be brought up
 with it through
 the hole in the
throat plate, as
 shown in Fig. 12.
 Place both ends
of thread under
 and to the back of
 the presser foot.               Fig. 12.
         To Commence Sewing
   Place the material to be sewn bencath the presser
 foot, lower the latter, and commence to sew by
 turning the balance wheel over towards you.

   NOTE.--Do not try to help the feeding of the work
 by pulling the material, as this may deflect the needle
and cause it to break.  The machine feeds without
 any assistance.
         To Remove the Work
   Raise the take-up lever (9, Fig. 5) to its highest
and lift the presser foot (8, Fig. 5). Move the
 material back and to the left, and sever the threads
by passing them over the thread cutter above the
presser foot. Leave the ends of the threads a few
inches long under and at the back of the presser foot.

12

    To Regulate the Tensions (See Fig. 13)





                         Correct Stitch.

  For ordinary stitching, the tension on the upper
 and under threads should be equal, so as to lock
 both threads in the centre of the work, as above.

   If either tension is stronger than the other,
 imperfect stitching will be the result thus:


     Needle thread tension          Needle thread tension
           too strong.                      too weak.

   Fine fabrics require a light tension, while
 heavy materials want more tension to obtain
 a perfect stitch.

   The tension on the needle thread should be regulated
 only when the presser foot is down.
  A correct stitch can usually be obtained by
 varying the tension on the needle thread (see
Fig. 13).

                       Lower the presser foot and turn
                   the thumb nut in the direction
                  illustrated by the arrow to in-
                  crease the tension or in the
                   opposite direction to lessen it.
               As all machines are correctly
                    adjusted before leaving the fac-
                  tory, the under tension seldom
                      requires to be altered, but if this
               becomes necessary tighten the
        K1467             • screw (1, Fig. 6) in the spring on
            Thumb the outside of the bobbin case to
            Nut increase the tension, or loosen it
        Fig. 13.        slightly to lessen the tension.
  Always use thread with corresponding size of
 needle as per Table on bage 3 of cover.

13
To Alter the
Length of Stitch
   (See Fig. 14)

   To lengthen
the stitch, turn  SINGER *O
the thumb screw

 over to the right;
to shorten the
stitch, turn the
thumb screw over
to the left.                            KaSS
                                      Fig. 14.


    To Change the Pressure on Material

   For ordinary family sewing it is seldom necessary
 to change the pressure on the material. If sewing
 fine silk or flimsy material, lighten the pressure
 by giving the thumb screw (1, Fig. 5) two or
 three turns upwards. To increase the pressure,
 give the thumb screw a few turns downwards.


            To Turn a Corner

   Stop the machine when the needle is rising but
still in the material.  Raise the presser foot and
 turn the work, using the needle as a pivot. Then
 lower the presser foot.


      To Sew Flannel or Bias Seams

   Use a short stitch and as light a tension as

 possible, so that the stitching will be loose enough

 to stretch with the goods.

14

           To Oil the Machine





                             Fig. 15.


   To ensure easy running the machine requires to
 be oiled so that all moving parts in contact are
covered with a film of oil. These should never
 be allowed to become dry.

  If used constantly, the machine should be oiled
 daily, while with moderate use, an occasional oiling
is sufficient.A drop of oil applied at the points
 indicated by arrows in Figs. 15 and 16, is sufficient.
 To oil the needle bar mechanism, remove the face
 plate (3, Fig. 5) by taking out the thumb screw
 (17, Fig. 5) and loosening the small screw (2, Fig. 5).
 It is most important that oil be applied to
 point "A" Fig. 15 when the take-up lever (9,
Fig. 5) is at its lowest. There are also two holes
 in the hand attachment to which oil should be applied
 occasionally. When oiling, insert the oil can spout
well into the oil holes. Apply a drop of oil to the
 small piece of felt lubricating the oscillating hook
 and to the rollers at the right of the hook shaft.

15





                                                                          K1320

                           Fig. 16.

  After oiling, run the machine rapidly for a few
minutes so that the oil may reach the bearings.
Neglect to oil the machine will shorten its
life and cause you trouble and annoyance.

 Always use Singer oil. Inferior oil clogs
the bearings, prevents efficient working, and
causes rapid wear of the mechanism.

16
         HINTS
  Machine working heavily. If the machine
runs hard after being idle, oil with paraffin. Then
 run rapidly, wipe clean and oil with Singer Oil.

   Needles Breaking. See that the needle is not
 bent, the upper tension is not too tight, and the
 presser foot or attachments are securely fastened.
 Avoid pulling the material and do not sew heavy
 seams or thick goods with too fine a needle (see
table on inside of back cover).

   Thread Breaking. If the needle thread breaks,
see that:
   The machine is properly threaded.
   The upper tension is not too tight.
   The needle is not bent, blunt or set incorrectly.
  The thread is not too coarse for the needle see
     table on inside of back cover).
   The thread take-up spring (6, Pig. 5) is not
   broken.

   Should the under thread break, loosen the under
 tension (see page 12), and see that the bobbin case
 and under the tension spring are free from fluff.

  Skipping of Stitches.See that the needle is
 correctly set (see page 5), is not blunt, bent, or too
fine for the thread.
   Stitches Looping.  See that the spring (6,
 Fig. 5) is not broken, that the upper and under
 tensions are equal (see page 12), that both bobbin
 case and needle are properly threaded, that the
 thread is of good quality and of correct size for the
 needle (see table on inside of back cover).

  Material Puckering.  See that both tensions
 are equal.

INSTRUCTIONS
           FOR USING
     ATTACHMENTS

           WHICH MAY BE APPLIED TO
  SINGER MACHINES
      No. 99


NOTE.-To obtain the best results from the alluch-
        ments, the machine should be titled for
          electric drive.(See page 2 of this book.)
           Before applying any of these attachments
           raise the needle and remove the presser foot.
         After substituting the attachment turn the
         balance wheel slowly over towards you to
        make sure that the needle passes through the
           centre of the needle hole.



     Darning by sewing machine is
      infinitely neater, stronger, and
     more quickly done than by hand.

       A tiresome task becomes a pleasure!
    Read how to do this in separate
      pamphlet, Form 1001 ad 33, which
      may be obtained free from any Singer

             Shop or Singer Salesman.

18

                Bias Gauge
  The Bias Gauge will be found very useful (especi-
 ally in the case of soft materials) when cutting bias
strips from ⅚ inch to 13 inches in width. This may





                                        K4159

be done by placing the bias gauge upon the point of
the scissors and setting the blued indicator to the
width desired. The line I is the point at which to
 set the blued indicator for facings, the line B for
binding, and the line C for cording or piping.
  Insert the material in the gauge with the edge
 against the blued indicator, and hold as shown
above.
  Bias binding for use with the Binder Attachment
 should be cut 1 inch wide, and to do this the
 indicator should be set midway between the lines
F and B.