Greist Buttonholer — User manual

THE GREIST BUTTONHOLER

 The Buttonholer is truly an interesting aid to sewing. Once it is properly reg-
 ulated it does its job quickly and will create a perfect buttonhole. You do not
 have to turn the material in order to change the direction of the stitching. The
buttonhole attachment moves forward and backward, stitching both sides of
the buttonhole. No matter whether you are putting it on a dainty baby dress
or a heavy coat, the finished buttonhole will be a thing of beauty, and it can
be made in a few minutes.

 If you have had trouble keeping your buttonholes the same size, you will find
the buttonhole attachment is a wonderful help. With it there is no guess work.
The buttonholes will be uniform in size and shape as long as you are using
the same template.

Before you begin to use this time-saving attachment, read carefully the in-
formation given in this little booklet. It will make your buttonholer a joy
to operate.                    FORM 777R           Copyright 1966 MITE Corporation

FORWHATATTACHINGTYPEINSTRUCTIONSIS YOURSEE:MACHINE?





     TYPE I                       TYPE II                                          TYPE III                                                             TYPE IV

   FASTEN ATTACHMENT TO MACHINE

  TYPE I

        1 - Remove presser foot.

         2 - Attach feed cover plate to machine. See page 12 for instructions.

         3 — Tilt attachment slightly to the right and guide the Buttonholer into po-
                   sition from the rear of the machine so that the needle clamp slides into
               the slot of the Fork Arm.

         4 - Securely fasten to the presser bar with the slotted clamping screw using
4             a screwdriver.

TYPE 11 & IV



   FIG. A                      FIG. B





 Type Il or IV illustrates the presser bar of your machine.

 The adaptor on the attachment you have just received is illustrated in Fig. A.

 You must first remove the knurled knob on the presser bar.

 TO DO THIS loosen the small screw at the side (type Il) or the back (type IV) and
 slide it down to remove. Slip the attachment in place from the back of the machine
 and tighten the presser bar nut securely as shown in Fig. B.

 TYPE III

     1 - Unscrew presser bar nut and replace with the nut supplied with attachment.

 2 - Slip the attachment in place from the back of the machine and tighten nut se-
      curely with the wrench supplied.                                               5

PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTION


                              Keeps template retainer plate in place. A —LOCK
 B-ADJUSTING KNOB              Controls position of cloth clamp.
 C -COVER SCREW               Holds cover in position.
D-COVER                      Conceals working parts of attachment.
                                     Straddles needle clamp in order to operate.E -FORK ARM
                                   Attaches to presser bar.F —ADAPTOR
                                 Holds fabric firmly.G -CLOTH CLAMP
                                 Holds fabric firmly as stitches are made.
H —STRIPPER FOOT
  SLOTTED CLAMPING
                                  Fastens attachment to presser bar.
    SCREW
                                    Controls width of side stitch.J - STITCH WIDTH ADJUSTER
K -TEMPLATE RETAINER
                                     Keeps templates in place.    PLATE
                                      Protects the feed of the machine.L-FEED COVER PLATE
                                     Fastens feed cover plate to machine.M —SCREW
                                                                 7

ADDITIONAL
                              TEMPLATESTEMPLATES
                              WITH
AVAILABLE
                              ATTACHMENT

VARIETY OF TEMPLATES


A set of five templates are furnished with the attachment —
%, ⅝", '¾", and 1⅒" for straight buttonholes and 1⅒"
for the keyhole type. Keyhole buttonholes are usually placed
 in suits and coats. The template for the keyhole buttonhole is
in the attachment when purchased.


Additional templates may be obtained in sizes ⅜", ½", and
1%" for straight buttonholes, ⅝" for the keyhole and an eye-
let template for belts, lacings, shower curtains.


On the back of each template there is a measurement line
which indicates the size of the buttonhole and the distance

the fabric may be cut.
                                                            9

TO CHANGE OR INSERT TEMPLATE

 Fig. A
       1 - Turn the adjusting knob (B) clockwise so that the cloth clamp (G)
                is fully extended.

       2 - Turn the attachment over.
      3 — To unlock template retainer plate (K) press and push away from
           you on the hinged edge with the thumb of your left hand.

 CHANGING TEMPLATE

  Fig. B
           1 - Insert the thumb and finger in the curved slots and lift template
            as shown. (Illustrated)

       2 - Place desired template in slot.

            3 - It may be necessary to turn the adjusting knob (B) so that the gears
           mesh, allowing the template to drop into place.

       4 - Snap the template retainer plate in position and the attachment is
            ready to be placed on the presser bar of the machine.              11

TO ADJUST WIDTH OF STITCH



 1 — The width of stitch for making a button-
     hole is determined by the Stitch Width
      Adjuster (d).



2 — To regulate the stitch width, press the
     adiuster down and move it to the set-
     ting desired, "N" for narrow stitches
    "W" for wider stitches.




Usually a narrow stitch width is used for a
small buttonhole and a wide stitch width for
a large buttonhole.


                                                                   13

HELPFUL HINTS                            CUTTING
                                       Use a small pointed scissors to cut the buttonhole
                                     opening. It may also be cut by placing the button-
                                      hole over an empty spool using a razor blade.

                              INTERFACING
                                     Appearance of buttonhole is improved if a piece of
                                      interfacing is used. The correct interfacing should
                              be selected according to the fabric type.
                            MATERIAL PROTECTION
                         On heavy material the teeth of the cloth clamp may
                                       interfere with the inserting of the garment. To en-
                                 sure a smoother placement under the cloth clamp
                                   with no danger of teeth catching into the fabric,
                                 place a piece of cellophane over the buttonhole
                                marking before it is placed under the cloth clamp.
                                      After garment is correctly positioned, remove cello-
                              phane before lowering presser foot.
                                     Slide cellophane over the finished buttonhole when
                                removing the garment. (Illus.)                     3
                          THREAD
                                   Special thread is not required. #50 mercerized cot-
14                                  ton and size A silk thread give excellent results and
                                  should be used with a size 14 needle.

TO MARK BUTTONHOLE POSITION





       1 - Carefully mark position and length of buttonhole.
          (Illus.)





      2 - Buttonholes may be marked with a basting line, or
       by using a tiny chalk or pencil mark.





  3 - Spacing between buttonholes should be carefully
       measured.

                                                            15

EDGE OF FABRIC    MAKING A BUTTONHOLE

                                      1. Turn adjusting knob (B) so that the cloth clamp (G) moves
                                                all the way forward towards you and the needle is in
                                    the center of cloth clamp. (Illus.)

                                   2. Place material under cloth clamp and align buttonhole
                                    length markings with front and rear lines on the cloth
                               clamp with needle at end of length mark.

                                    3. Lower presser bar so that cloth is held smoothly under
                                   the cloth clamp.
                                   4. Hold the needle thread and take a stitch drawing the
                                bobbin thread up to the right side of material.
      5. Hold the two threads in your left hand and in front of the attachment. Allow a
        few stitches to cover the threads so that they are fastened securely. Clip threads.
      6. Stitch around the entire buttonhole. For added strength stitching around the
         buttonhole twice will produce a stronger buttonhole.

      7. Remove work from machine.

       8. Draw upper thread to wrong side, tie and clip threads.
     Always make a test buttonhole using the same fabric thickness as in the finished
16   garment, to make sure width of stitch and size of buttonhole are correct.

TO MAKE A LARGER BUTTONHOLE


 1. Mark buttonhole position and length.
 2. Use either of the 1⅒" template depending on the type
    desired.

 3. Turn adjusting knob (B) so that the cloth clamp (G) moves
     all the way forward toward you and the needle appears
    at center line on rear of cloth clamp.

4. Place material under cloth clamp and align buttonhole
   length markings with front and rear lines on cloth clamp.
     (Illus.) Page 18

5. Lower the presser bar, so that the material is held
   smoothly under the cloth clamp. DO NOT LOWER THE
   NEEDLE.

6. Turn the adjusting knob (B) clockwise again until the
   needle is opposite the second line from the front on the
   left side of the cloth clamp. This is the starting point.
                                                      17    (lus.) Page 18

7. Hold needle thread and take a stitch drawing the bobbin thread up to the
     right side of material.


  8. Lower needle holding thread end to the left. Clip thread ends after they are
    fastened with a few stitches.


  9. Stitch up left side of buttonhole, around the end and down the right side
     stopping directly opposite the starting point. One inch of the buttonhole
     has now been made with the end nearest you remaining open. (Illus.)


10. LEAVE NEEDLE IN FABRIC. Hold fabric on bed of machine with left hand as
   shown.



11. Raise the presser bar, taking care not to shift the fabric.


                                                            19

12. Before continuing, you must decide which line on the cloth clamp must be
           brought opposite the needle in order to adjust the attent                                                                                 avide
           the extra length which is needed.


          Turn the adjusting knob clockwise so that the cloth clamp moves across the

        one right side, serpie enthe the let side, are the beeks any adved



      13. Lower the presser bar, and continue stitching down the right side across
           the end and up the left side to complete the buttonhole. Overlap the stitch-
           ing at the starting point.


      14. Remove work from machine.


      15. Draw upper thread to wrong side, tie and clip threads.


20

Each space between the lines that are ahead of the needle adds
 ⅛" to a 1 inch buttonhole. Therefore, if you wish to add ½ inch
 to the length of the buttonhole, you will turn the adjusting knob
 until the needle is opposite the fifth line from the rear on the
 right half of the cloth clamp.

 The following list will help you make the necessary calculations.
 Counting the lines from the rear,


  line 1 produces a 2                             line 5 produces a 1½
inch buttonhole                            inch buttonhole
 line 2 produces a 1⅞                           line 6 produces a 1⅜
inch buttonhole                                           inch buttonhole

 line 3 produces a 1¾                                                    line 7 produces a 1¼
 inch buttonhole                           inch buttonhole

 line 4 produces a 1⅝                                                   line 8 produces a 1⅛
inch buttonhole                                           inch buttonhole

                                                        21

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         ZAG          CAUTIONBUTTONHOLER    STRAIGHT  TYPE