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"Noiseless" Willcox & Gibbs - 1907 — User manual

User manual for "Noiseless" Willcox & Gibbs - 1907. 40 pages in English. Read the original PDF, download or print a copy without registration.

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Brand
Willcox & Gibbs
Model / document
"Noiseless" Willcox & Gibbs - 1907
Document type
User manual
Language
English
Pages
40
File size
3.5 MB
Category
Sewing machines
Document date
Published 1907

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Page 1 · Read text
DIRECTIONS

                FOR USING
WILLCOX & GIBBS
 AUTOMATIC
 NoiselessSewing Machine


                  oX&

     TRADE                               l:cl MARK
                    ==~

                          .CO·

         F&e◄imile of C.ilt Medallion upon b.a.o of each Machine

Willcox & Gibbs Sewing  Machine  Company
                                 Chiel  Offic.e:
            658  Broadway,  Corner  of Bond  Street
              NEW YORK


         BRANCHES IN PRINCIPAL CITIES
                  See  Liat, lnaide  Back Cover
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Page 2 · Read text
BESTSEWINGMACHINEOIL
  Good Sewing  l\1achine Oil is  essential  to the
proper  working  and  wearing  qualities  of our
 machine.  You  are  absolutely  sure  of  getting
THE BEST  if you purchase  fro1u us.
  Most of the sewing machine  oil kept on sale at
other places is liable to gum up the n1achine and
cause you  trouble and  unnecessary expense  and
repairs.
  We guarantee  our Oil  to be the  best  for the
purpose  in every respect, and can send it by n1ail
or express.
     Vin mail including box o.nd postage,  2tt cents per  bottle.
     Vin cxp~!-S-8  bottles  fot              21.cents.



     TRADE  MARK  CAUTION
  The  n1eclallion shown upon the  title page is our
Registered Trade  Mark.  \Ve, therefore,  caution
the public againstpurchasinganysewing    1nachine
                                                                                          11purporting  to beof the "Willcox&Gibbssysten1
or manufacture,  \Yhether "Automatic"   or "Ten-
sion,"  ·which has not this Medallion upon  it.


     W. & G. NEEDLES-CAUTION
                                       C    ►               C-lstl®.!t.5

  Needles   not   bearing   both  stamps  jW. & []   and
 PAT.  MAACH   ,o. ,oo, as sbown above, are spurious.
  Buy Needles  of ua direc.t  or  at  our Brnnch   Offices,
and you will be sure  to get only "Genuine."   You are
almost  certain  to get worthl~ss  imitations  ( called  \Vill-
cox and Gibbs  Needles) from Sewing  l'lfachine agents
and dealers, and from fancy goods  stores.
  The perfect or even  sati~'factory working  of our ma-
chine depends upon using Genuine  Needles.
  Needles   01£1:rcd at  !ess  than  our  prices  are  not
genuine,  are  !table  to 1n1ure the machine,  and  cause
great  dissatisfaction  and annoyance  in use.
  Needles, as well ns Cotton, Silk, &c., can be forwarded
by mail.
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Page 3 · Read text
WILJ.,COX & GIBBS
   AUTOMATIC
        HIGHEST  STANDARD  OF EXCELLENCE.
     All Working   Parts  Thoroughly   Hardened   .





                                                                                        •





                       NO. 6.-DROP  CASE.
    This  style  is in Qunrtered  Onk or in Black  \Valnut,  having  four  Drnwer"!; with
Lock~.  The Top or Leaf fnrms~n   Extended  Table when opened for  ¥so.  Orna-
mental  lrou Stand  on Cnsters.    'l'he  'l'rcadle  works on knlle-edge   bearangs.





                                           Hand Attachmea.t  Only, $S.00
   Automatic  Machine  with Hand Attachment.
                ready f~r  use.
    Any  of our Automatic  mnchines when  removed  from  the  Table  cnn be ensiJy
fastened   to the  Hnnd   At.tnehment   by   :\ 'rhumb   Screw (furoi~hed   wit.h  ench
Attachment),   nnd  t..he Machme can then be used by hand on any tab1e.
    Ladies  :-pending   (L few weeksa.t  the se..1.side or in the  country   or when  travel•
 !rq,  will  find this  comp.-t·t  Hand  1\fachfne ,~ grc:.at convcnienco.   When  pack('d  in
t1:e tr..mk   it occupies   liltlc  spuce.
                     TRA VEUNC  CASE.
     F'<'r the tr:n·eler  we  rccommcn<l  the use of our  Black  Walnut  or Oak Ca~c to
enclose the Hand  )lnchine  and protect   it from  dust and damttge.              .$5.00
       WILLCOX & GIBBS S.  i'tI. CO.
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2  WILLCOX & GIBBS SEWING MACHINE  CO.
                 Attachments.
   The  following  Attachments   are  supplied  without  extra
  charge  with each .Machine (except  that with Styles No.  2,
 No. 4. No. 4 and Leaf, Hand-Machine,  and Head  without
  Table,  the T11cker, Rttfflcr, and Li1te,i or Flamiel Hemmer
 are not i11cluded).  When  required  separately,  the  prices
  are as follows :

  TUCKER,  a simple and  useful  attachment,  which
 measures,  marks  and  creases  any  desired  width  of
 tuck, while  the  previous  one  is being  stitched.   See
 page 35  ............................................                                      . $2.00
   RUFFLER,  made especially for the Willcox & Gibbs
 Automatic  Machine.    It  gathers,  forming  a beautiful
 Ruffle as fast as an ordinary seam  is sewed, and  if de-
 sired,  sews  on   the   band    at   the  same   time.
 See  page  34. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  2.00
  *LINEN OR FLANNEL HEMMER  (turns  a hem
 much wider  than  the Narrow Hemmer),  and  is spe-
 cially  adapted  to hemming  Alpacas,  Woolens,  heavy
 Cottons  or Table  Linens.  See page 24 ..............           2.00
  *NARROW HEMMER,  for  turning  and  stitching
 very  narrow  hems.  See page 23. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . .  2.00
  *WIDE  HEMMER,  which  is  also  the FELLER,
 for turning  in the edge and stitching  all wider hems
 after they have been folded the desired width, and for
 finishing  fells  after  the  first seam  has  been  sewed.
 See pages 25 and 27. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1.50
  HEMMER  NUT,  to fasten  either  hemmer.........          .20
  BRAIDER,  made  to order.  See page 3, .........        .
  GATHERER,  when in use, is attached  to the Press-
 er-foot.   Sec page  30. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..  . . . . . .    .25
  QUILTER,   for executing  any  description  of quilt-
ing  in  parallel  lines, diamonds,  checks,  &c., without
marking.    Also used as a top guide wh~n stitching
3-ply  tucks,  and  for  other  similar  purposes.    See
page  29   . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .   .25
Dozen Needles  (20  cents ½ dozen-4c.   each)........       .35
Needle Wrench    . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  .15
Guide  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .    .2.0
Guide Screw   . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  .25
Bottle  of Oil..   . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .     .10
Oil Can  ...........      (Oil Can filled.  15c.).............            .10
Belt    . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .   .25
Bodkin    . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .   .05
 •Our Hemmers are all attached to tho Cloth-plate (not to the Presser-
foot), a..ndarc seU adjusting.  The Hem is turned  underneath  so  that
th&stitching  is done, as it should be, on tho right side of the fabrfc.

  See Caution about Needles and Oil inside front Cover.
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Page 5 · Read text
THE AUTOMATIC.                  3

                     11\IPORTANT
             To Owners  of the Willcox & Gibbs
            Noiseless AUTOMATIC    Sewing  1\lachine.
                        it1lJ" Do not allow anyone, claiming  to have been  sent
             by us, to repair or even examine your AUTOMATIC  Sew-J
               ing Machine, because we do NOT employ traveling  agents
               or repairers  for this purpose.
                        If you want your Automatic  Sewing Machine  to give
                the very  best, and most satisfactory  service, you must avoid
               use of Imitation  Needles, Cheap Oil or Counterfeit  Parts  .
                          .Machines are often  injured through  disregard  of these sim-
                ple warnings.
                  Should  your Sewing Machine from any cause  fail to
             work properly-, time and money will be saved by communi-
                cating  directly  with  us, giving  full explanation  of the  diffi-
                 culty.  Or  better   still, send  the Machine Head  at once  to
                 us,  or  to  one  of  our  Branch  Offices  (sec   List,  inside
              back  cover),  where  only  what  is needed  will be done;
             Genuine  1>arts only will be applied, and by workmen who
               understand   their  business  and have  the  proper  tools  for
             making repairs.
              Do not  trust  your  l\Iachine  to a general  sewing ma-
               chine  repairer,  to  risk  his use of imitation  parts, and who
               has neither  the proper  tools nor experience  necessary  to do
                the work as it should be done.
               vVe prefer, when delay  is allowable,  to  estimate  cost
                of repairs  (after  receipt  of machine)  and  then ask owner
                 for instructions  before  repairing   it.
                 Machines  rented,  repaired and exchanged.
               Any supplies needed can be sent by mail, on receipt of
                   letter  enclosing  post.age stamps,  or money  order, covering
               proper amount.
                   Cotton-5    cents  a  spool,  or  55  cents  per  dozen--
                subject  to change without ·notice.  Add s cents a dozen for
                postage.
                   Colored  Cotton,  and  Spool  Silk, we always  carry  in
                 stock.
                      .Oil-ro   cents  per  bottle.    If ordered  by mail, add 15,
               c~11tsto cover mailing box and postage.
                          Vi~ Exl)rcss 3 bott)~s  for ~5c.
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Page 8 · Read text
6  WILLCOX  & GIBBS SEWING MACHINE  CO.

           Description   of 1\lachiue.



                                                                                                                                                                  '                                                       ..

                                                   .TENSIONROD

                   NEEDLEBAB
                       lSCREW

                                                COHNECTlNQ
                                                                                              •  ROD





    •

           Fig. 2-N ames of the Parts o( the Machine.

  This illustrates tl1e principal parts of the Machine, to
,vhich reference  is 1nade in the course of these Direc-
tions, and a  careful  study  of which  will be found
exceedingly helpful to the learner.
              Treadle Practice.
   Befor.e  commencing   to  sew,  practice   running
Machine,   ,vith  one   foot,  without  thread   in  the
Needle, and  with  Presser  Foot  raised  from  Cloth
Plate,  until you can  with  ease produce  a  regular
motion.
  The Cap  that  covers  the  Looper  must  be  kept
closed while practising or sewing.
 We advise use of 011efoot only in running l\llachine,
11sit runs so very lightly.
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THE AUTOMATIC.                7

                  Oiling.-Notes  and Cautions.

        A  little care bestowed in properl'J'oili119and clea.11,-
           ing Machine  ,viii abundantly  repay owner  in ease of
           running and general comfort.
•'          Use oil put up expressly by us, which is decidedly
            best for the purpose, and can be obtained at any of our
          Branch  Offices.   Should  Machine  run  hard  after
           standing  for some ti1ne ( which  it n1ay do  if any oil
           except  ours  is used),  oil with a  little  kerosene  or
           benzine, and after running  it a few n1inutes, oil again
           with our sewing machine  oil.    (See  "Best Sei11i119
         Machine Oil" on it1side of fro11tcover.)
        A  bottle  of   oil  and  an  oiler  accompany  each
          Nfachine sent out by us.
           The Machine should be cleaned and  oiled two or
            three times a week, or every day, if in constant use.
           Keep outer ri1n of Large Wheel, underneath Table,
             free from oil.  This will prevent  its turning backward
            in consequence of oil reaching Rubber  Ball.  Should
                 it do so, wipe outer ritn of Large Wheel and Rubber
            Ball  thoroughly  with  a  cloth, then  apply po,vderecl
           chalk or pumice stone to Rubber  Ball.
                 If oil gets on your work, rub the spots with soap and
           cold water before putting garn1ent in the suds.

                        Oiling  the Stand.

           The  Stand  requires  oiling in only three places, at
           each of ,vhich will be found oil holes, namely-Wheel
            Stud,  Crank  Stud  (both  to  right  of  Pit1nan), and
           Treadle  at  its connection with Pitn1an.   ( See Fig.   I,
          on page 5.)
          To oil them move toe of Treadle to its lowest point.
           This  will raise both Stud  oil holes to the top-the
           only position in which they can be reached for oiling.
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•


8  WILLCOX & GIBBS SEWING MACHINE CO.

             Oiling  the  l\lachine.
    It is not necessary to use a screw driver to get at any                                                                             •.
of the Parts  requiring oiling or cleaning.
   All our later improved Automatic  Sewing Machines
have "Oil Holes" in Cloth Plate, and all Parts under-
neath Cloth Plate  are oiled by si1nply applying a drop
of  oil in each "Oil  Hole,''  (Fig.  3) and need 11ot be
removed from table as shown in Fig. 4.
  Occasionally Machine should be re111ovedfrom Table
and cleaned underneath.


   o,~,_-
     01~:--.........:~
    01~--



                                      01

                                  OIL QI





                              Fig. 8.
   Oil all places on Machine as here indicated.  Do not
oil the A1tto111aticTensio11.
  Run Machine rapidly  for a few mo1nents to ,vork
oil into bearings, taking care to  raise Presser  Foot.
Carefully  ,vipe superfluous  oil fro1n every part you
can reach, without removing Machine from Table.
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THE AUTOMATIC.                 9


               Sewing  ~lachine  Oil.-Caution    .

•
            Use  only  oil put up by  us, and you  will avoid
           unnecessary expense in frequently having your 1nachine
            cleaned and repaired.  See inside Front Cover.



           OiZ





                 Fig. 4-Shows  Plae<.>Sto be Oiled  unde,•ncath  Cloth  Plate  in
                  our 1:.'arlier Automatic  and B Sewing Machines, wbicb
                       do 1101 have" Oil Holes"   in Cloth Plate.

              Ren,ove the Automatic  B-Niachine from Table by
            1neans of Thumb  Screw;  lay  it down  in position
           shown in Fig. 4; pull down the Cap and apply a drop
              of  oil to the places underneath Cloth  Plate  indicated
            by arrows.
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THE AUTOMATIC.                       11

            with the fingers; then apply slot in Wrench  ( 27, Fig. 6)
           below the taper on the Needle, and push  it up as high
                                  as   it  will  go.   Before  taking
                           Wrench  off, hold  Needle  again•         Ci      ' :?SC.   .
                                        iirinly between thumb and finger,
                                          r;.  &-.,,,.  w,..,,.,   to prevent its slipping down; then
,\            place Wrench on Nut  (e Fig. 7) 1 and turn  it to right..               until J\•eedle is firmly held in its place.
             Keep the Needle sharp.  A. dull Needle cannot do
           good work, and  is  liable to become bent  in going
             through the cloth.  Sharpen on a fine oil-stone.  Never
            11sea bent Needle.

                To Take Out the  Needle.
               Let Presser  Foot down, and raise Needle Bar to its
              h(qhcst point.  Unscrew Needle Bar Nut with Needle
           Wrench,  taking a half turn to the left.

                  To Tighten  the  Belt.
              Should Belt become loose ·after use, and you wish to
              tighten   it, unscrew one end of Belt from brass ferrule,
            and shorten  it by cutting off from one-quarter  to one-
               half inch ; then place end of Belt on bare Aoor, or on
            any smooth hard surface where you can gently roll it
            under your foot, so as to con1press the end which en-
                ters ferrule, and screw together as below.

                  To Apply  the  Belt.
               Pass one end bet\veen the Pitman and Large Wheel,
             then pass both ends up through slot in Table.  Hold
            end of Belt ( having the ferrule)  in left hand; take the
              other encl of Belt bet,veen thumb and finger of right
             hand, and turn  it towards yo1t six full  turns-this   will
              put a twist, or "kink" in Belt.  Then push end of Belt
             hard into fern1le, screwing  it in as far as you can by
                  tur11i11g  it  f1·011i yo11,-which will take twist out of Belt
            and leave it straight.
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12  WILLCOX & GIBBS SEWING MACHINE  CO.

       To Thread  the  lliachine.

  Machines are ahvays sent from our offices properly                                                                                                                                            '•threaded;  therefore,  observe 1\IIachine carefully when                                 '
you receive  it.  The direction of thread  is shown by
the darts in Fig. 9.





    Fig. 9-Shows  the Manner of 'rhreading  the Machine.

  When threading,  first pull out Spool Pin, and place
spool upon it, noticing that spool revolves freely around
Pin.  Replace Spool Pin.   Raise Needle Bar to high-
est point by turning Small Wheel, and then proceed as
follows:
  *I   Thread  fro1n back toward you, through the two
staples and hole in Ann known as Pull-off  (r, Fig. 9).
    2.  Then carry thread between spool and Automatic
Tension,  being careful  to draw  thread between the
washers under cap of Automatic  Tension  (2, Fig. 9).

•lilrBy  doubling t1.nd·twi~tfog ond of  thread   it cnn bo more  readily
passed through Pullrl>ff and fo11owiug places, when threading.
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THE AUTOMATIC.                    13

   3.  Thread from right to left through Thread  Pin
on top of Fraine  (3, Fig. 9).
   4.  From  right  to  left  through Wire  Staple  (4,
Fig. 9).
  NOTE.-Do  not  thread  through  loop  of Spring  under  this  Staple,
unless embroidering.
   5.  Take thread benveen thun1b and finger of both
hands, passing  it between Needle Bar and Take-up,
and press  it from you into opening at top of Take-up
 (5, Fig. 9).
   6.  Downwards through Thread  Pin  (6, Fig. 9).
   7.  Through Needle Eye from left to right (Fig. 9).
 To Regulate  Length  of  Stitch  to Size  of
          Thread  or Silk  Used.





                HANDLEOf STITCH-REGULATOR.

                                                                        "'      -1(
           Fig. 10-"  Table " Stamped on Cloth Plate.
   Fron1 Fig. ro  it will be seen that there  is stamped
 upon Cloth Plate  of the Machine a "Table" sho,ving
  proper size of Needle and length of stitch for each size
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14  WILLCOX & GIBBS SEWING MACHINE  CO.

of cotton or  silk.  For  example:   For 80 thread  or
0 silk, use a No. 2 Needle, and 22  stitches to an inch.
  To  left of  this· "Table"  is a slot, surrounded  by a
shield  inscribed  "Stitches  to an  inch."   To  obtain
length of stitch required, n1ove handle of Stitch Regu-
lator  until proper number appears through  slot.  The
length of stitch indicated by the ''Table" sho11ldal111ays
be 11sed,as the proper elasticity will then be secured in
all sean1s. A  strict  adherence  to  the "Table"  will
always ensure good and durable work.

           Selecting  Thread   or  Silk.

  vVhen selecting thread or silk for 111achinesewing,
the operator should bear in mind that generally three
or fo1w sizes fi11e-rthan  that used in hand seiving 1s
strong e11011_qh,and best adapted to the work.  For in-
stance, where 6o cotton would be used in hand sewing,
use 8o cotton on the Machine.  By using 8o or 90 cot-
ton on muslin you ,viii have a seam as strong as the
 fabric, and a chain so sn1all on under side of garn1cnt
as to n,ake  it aln1ost in1possible to detect  it after  laun-
dering.  This rule also applies to finer 1naterials.
  The  following rules on this  subject  will be found
 useful:
 For bleached n1uslin, { From 8o to roo white cotton.
    shirting, &c., use
                    From 70 to roo black cotton.
 Dress 1faking  • • • • •  { 70 only in colors, 0 or A silk.
 For  tucking  cotton  { Fro1n roo to 200  cotton.
 J  or  silk.  . . . . . . . . .    000, 00 silk.
For  light woolen clothing, flannels, &c ......   70 to 90
For heavy ,voolen clothing ................       6o to 8o
                                                                                       •For  line linens .........................               100  to 150
 For fine lawns, Nainsooks, &c .........        : .. 120  to 200
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THE AUTOMATIC.             xs

           For  embroidering*   ...................       E  or F  silk
           For hem111ingsilk or wool goods ............     000 silk
           For braiding ....................         8o cotton or O silk
              "Glace"  is the strongest and most even spool cotton,
           and  while any good  cotton  can  be  used,  "Glace"
             invariably gives the best results.
           When colored cottons are required, use only Brook's,
           and in the case of black select one nu1nber coarser than
             called for in above rules.  Colored cotton can be had
            only in nun1ber 70.

                      Size  Needle  to  be Used,

            The "Table" stamped upon Cloth Plate  (Fig.  10)
           shows by number the proper size of Needle to be used
            with each size thread or  silk.
            The number is stamped on shank of each Needle.


             CAU1'ION.-Every Needle made by us is stamped Ori
             shank, jw. & G.j and  •••· M••·•••,....    A.11others   are
              ,vorthless imitations and invariably give troH-ble,as well
             as injure  tile Maclline.    I1nitations  or  bent  needles
               will cause loose stitches and breaking of thread.
                 The Automatic  Tension.

               This  i1nportant feature  of  the Willcox & Gibbs
            Automatic  Sewing Machine  calls for  fe,v ,vords of
              explanation,  as  it is entirely self-acting,  requiring no
               at;tention or  skill on the part of operator, no matter
            what nature the fabric may be, or what size thread or
j               silk is required.
           No adjustinent  of the Automatic 'fension being re-

                •W11en th.r-eadfng!or embroidery   I th rend through Embroider)'  Spring.
                  (See "Embroidering,"  page  82.)
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16 WILLCOX & GIBBS SEWING MACHINE CO.

quired for any size thread or silk, or any kind or thick-
ness of work,  it only 1·en1ains for operator  to select
thread or silk, and to regulate the stitch, by following
the directions on page 14 and the "Table" stamped on
Cloth  Plate  (Fig.   10).   The  operator  can  then be
certain  that Machine  ,viii  start  immediately and do
perfect work.
  The Automatic  Tension   is not at  all liable to get
out of order, but will remain perfectly adjusted  and
sel£-adjusting,  if not n1eddled with.
  We repeat the ca11tio11:Do not Oil the Automatic
Tension.

 To Place  the  Work  and  Begin  Sewing.

  Raise Needle to its highest point, also Presser  Foot.                   •
Place work under point of Needle.   I·Iave two or three
inches of thread drawn  through  the eye of Needle.*
Pass  thread  under  Presser  Foot,  towards  the  left.
Let down Presser  Foot, the thread being held fast be-
hveen Presser  Foot and cloth.
  The thread 111aybe held lightly under. the linger, in-
stead  of being passed under  Presser  Foot,  in which
case, hold  it until two stitches are 1nade.  If held too
tightly, the thread will break ai: the first stitch.

             Crossing Seams.

  The Automatic  Sewing Machine will give no trouble
in passing over any ordinary seam.  Very heavy seams
n1ay need a little assistance.                                                                       .
                                                    t  •Unless the Needle Bar is o.t its ki.G'_hestj}Dintt. the thread  is held by
t.he Automatic Tension, a.nd cannot be drawn tnrough.
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THE AUTOMATIC.                 17

              To Fasten   Sean1 and  to Take
                            the Work  Out.

            To  Fasten  End  of Seam.-Sew   off end of seam
            two st-itches; mote than this n1ay leave seam unlocked.
             Stop with  Needle  at  its  highest  point.   With  left
             hand, catch thread behveen Needle and Thread  Pi11
                (6, Fig. 9), and pull some slack through the Automatic
             Tension.*  vVith right hand, drav, the slack through
              the eye of Needle, and, grasping  thread  firmly, cut
              the  thread  close  to  the  goods.   Lift  Presser  Foot
            and then pull the goods fro11i you, and end of thread
                  ,viii be drawn through  the loop.  Next,  pull end  of
               thread, which  will tighten  the -knot and fasten  off  the
              sea1n.  If you cannot pull any slack thread from the
              spool, it is because the Needle Bar is not at its highest
               point.
            To Fasten Seam in the Goo'ds.-Stop   the Needle in
              the  goods, place the  fingers on  the goods  close to
               Presser.  Foot  to prevent goods fro1n n1oving, raise
              Presser  Foot, and take one more stitch in  last hole
             1nade.  Then  break  off  thread,  take out goods and
               fasten off as directed in preceding paragraph.
            To  Fasten Seam  to be Trimmed  or Cut.-Seams
                that you ,vish to tritn frorn the finishing end should be
               fastened by sewing back in the saine row of stitching,
             a  little beyond the point of trimming.   If  it is neces-
              sary to tri1n the finishing end of a sea1n that has not
             been  fastened  as  above,  i1nn1ediately after  cutting,
                     ,  lock the sea111by inserting a pin through loop on the
             under side of goods, pulling end of thread through and
.            drawing  it baclnvard upon the seam .
,                      •unless  the Needle Ba..ris nt its l11"ghestpq1itt, the thread  is held by
                   the Automntic Tenaion, and cannot bo drawn through.'
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18 WILLCOX & GIBBS SEWING MACHINE CO.

          To Take Out Seam.
     It is one of the decided advantages of the Automatic
 Sewing Machine,  that,  if required,  its work can be
 taken to pieces, without injuring the goods, by simply
 unlocking the seam  at any  point, and  dra,ving  out
 the thread.
   The seam can be onll taken out in one direction, viz. :
 towards the point of starting.    It  is therefore a good
 plan to begin all seams fron1 the end 1nost exposed.
          To Turn  a Corner.
   Stop with Needle raised to its highest  point;  raise
 Presser Foot and turn the ,vork.  As the thread acts
 as a pivot the work  will become displaced from  the
position where the Needle ,vas withdrawn;  therefore,
 readjust  the work so that the Needle will enter  it at
 proper  distance  fro1n last  stitch,  let  Presser  Foot
 do,vn, and proceed.
           Difficulties  of  Beginners.
  As in all things "Practice makes perfect," so in the
operation of the Willcox & Gibbs Automatic  Sewing
Machine, all the varied kinds of work which can be
done on  it will be accomplished with ease and in per-
 fection as you daily grow more accustomed to its use
,vhile closely following this book of instructions. When
in trouble arising from inexperience or failure to ob-
serve these directions, the following important features
should be specially observed :
   "It  will not feed."-STITCH  REGULATOR  not
set according  to "Table" on CLOTH  PLA·TE  (see
p. 13).  Thread wound on LOOPER.   Needle bent.                                                     I
Threads  or ravelings caught on PRESSER  FOOT.
Cloth  caught  in HE111MER or  other  attachment.                                   I
Very heavy seams  will not  pass under PRESSER
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THE AUTOMATIC.                  19

        FOOT  without a  little assistance.     ( See "Crossing
            Sean1s" page 16) .    •                   "It  ravels  when   I  take  the  work  out."-Stop
           Machine with Needle at its highest point and before  it
             runs off the cloth more than two stitches.  Never turn
           Machine backward to raise Needle.  This precaution
              will leave last stitch always locked.  (See page 17).
                   "It  drops  stitches."-Needle     is bent, or not  right
              size for thread according to "Table" ( See page 13) ; or
           you are using soft  finished cotton  ( See page 15).
             "The  thread  breaks."-11:achine   is not threaded up
              right  ( See page 12).  You did not start according to
              instructions  ( See page 16). You are sewing goods too
            hard  for N eeclle to  penetrate  without  soaping,  or
           you are using wrong sized Needle for the thread  ( See
           page 15);  black or colored soft  finished cotton (See
           page  I 5) ; or the tl1read is caught on spool or wound
           around SPOOL PIN;  or Auton1atic Tension does not
            hold  the  thread  (See  "Tension  does  not  work,"
           page 20).
             "The  Looper  winds  up."-Caused    eitl1er by not
            holding on to end of thread in starting, or by not put-
             tingthread under PRESSER  FOOT. (Seepage 16); or
             leaving PRESSER FOOT  up; or stitch not right by
            "Table"  ( See page 13).  vVhen this difficulty occurs
              pull down the Cap and clear thread from LOOPER,
            being careful not to scratch LOOPER  .
                    •
                   "It runs hard."-11achinc   or Stand needs oiling, or
           you have been using poor oil that gums.  (See pages
           7 and 8.)  Thread or ravelings are wound in between
        SMALL WI-IEEL and CONN,ECTION  ROD-thi~
           can occur onl-y ,vith our  earlier AUTO111ATIC andi
           B-Machines.  All our  latest AlITO MA TIC  Sewing
           Machines have been so i111provedthat  this difficulty i~l
              entirely removed.
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20  WILLCOX & GIBBS SEWING MACHINE  CO.

  "Wheel  turns  backward."-There     is oil on rin1 of
LARGE WHEEL.    (See  directions  for  preventing
\/\Theelturning backward, page 7.)                                                                                                                   •
   "Belt  •slips."-See   directions  to Tighten  the  Belt,                                           Ipage 11.
                                                                                                       I  "Sewing  is much too loose."-You   have a shorter
stitch than required by "Table"  (See page 13) or you
have threaded  through EMBROIDERY   SPRING.
 (See NOTE near top of page 13.)  Or you have not
drawn thread benveen the Tension Washers.   (See  2,
page 12.)
   J6J" Imitation   or  bent  Needles  will caus'l  loose
stitches and breaking of thread.
   "Tension  does not work."-A   knot on thread may
have broken off in AUTOMATIC TENSION.   Raise
 Needle Bar  to highest  point, and draw  a  piece of
 folded writing paper behveen Washers, both front and
back of Tension.

           Accident  to Machine.

   In case of accident, unscrew Machine from Table,
 pack tightly in a small box, so that  it will not be shak-
 en about in transit, and send by Express  to us, or any
 of our Branches  for  repair.   First  tic a. ta,g or card
 with yoiir 11a1nea11df 111/address to the 1lrfachine be-
 fore 11ailiugup the bo,r, and give the office to which
 you send  it  full  particulars,  stating  also number of
 JV[achine. Do not se11d the Thutnb Screw or Attacli-
 11,ents.
   Address,                                                         •
    WILLCOX & GIBBS S. M. CO.,
                658 Broadway,  New  York.                                                 l
   For  list of Branches see inside back cover.
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THE AUTOMATIC.                     21


 II.-DIRECTIONS  FOR USING THE
         ATTACHMENTS.

             The Guide.





                 Fig. 18-Sbowing  Use of Guide.

  Fasten  Guide A  to Cloth  Plate  by Guide Screw
D, as far fron1 Needle as you wish the sewing fro1n
edge of work.

     Beware of Imitation Needles and poor Oil.
View original page 23

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