"Trial at Home" Willcox & Gibbs — User manual

.-.lii   !{Cnttwc    Wal,·   .i    (!.   (,i',b.  "A  ritourntic     ''    . 'Uimt
      S,wing  Madrincs kn"<! mr Medallimi  1'r,ufr  .:tf,u·k (, -~
        illus·trnfcd uji(m tkt  /i1·.,;tfa,,•e of  this hoc:k)criduddtd  w
         tll~ b,asr!,mrd tlit 1rddilim1al Tr,rdc M,rrk
                           \\·1i.1.cm: & Gums  .. M.  Cl).
     upon thr1 arm  01' Ln•,•i·,  r!S  ~rr,,~/I   (Ji!  JS.,..,i;J3·   Jfm:l,i'iw
       ;wt  ;<r• 1/iclrkcrl  .. 1rnd'f'1£Tf'Wlrng  t,,, 1,r n111~,  irre .f:·,wd1dn,l
       imil,ttions.

        CAUTION  ABOUT  NeEDLES    .
                                                                                               .. .:;::::=:a,

                                            ~::f.jlii.-               ~·-
      Un  ·1ti·.- ,if 5.PORlOlJSNEBl>LE,S:thcJ" ,m; Pjtw  tlu:
        s,1ic arnsr  of {1,r.l ;,•m·k, ,1111{11r1· lialtl,· fn iiijuu   lh  uurd1h1c.
             H,·!'1·1 1 ~(m,·im· 11ecdit:hrt'S .,1.-wipt;I ,11J tiu: ~hr.wk •• flr,t .
              .\f,1J'.  19,  !8 H  ·• and  , 111r  r·cJf_tfr,·td   1'1mfr   Mr1d:  jr>r
       .\'udles :-
                    W. & Cr.

       iNOHL-Needle,s     are   liiint   safely  by  11ost.   Pries  2~c1. ,ea,ch.,
                         -~, .. Pe I" ·do .:e-n, i:i..ndf105 tage.
          St,wrp;.  ,Jr    l ,ma/   , h·,frr  _{/r111d1J.rfa·,ry~ .icn ..mfw1y
        llrda:  Jar .rnJ,,',lics.
       To m_1oi1liPitpo·itio1!  rim/ Jo1.,,/J;,rch1:sc botle r1rncldllt.S
      1md  s,1ppu~.s,!fr.;:/    lr(Jl!l   OIH'  of •~Ill'O(Ji.ce~(s:.i:elist c·n
       opj,N,iit:}tttt)  crfrout    ,t Certifi~d ,lgc111.
             lF.i: ;•rrei,N: llr,· ~i•,Mfrst  i1.s.1r.~/,1J1 ,·from  thrJ,rc,;;omut.1·ul,i~
      fi1m nf m,r M,:drims  "J'  t/r,1g  ;,·ha /.-aw  I  t·il ,i/:c111. In
      acrrno«·led.,.lw~.. a:lfh /hm;'h,  /hr ,..,alfrnbleHid {/an rc11daea·
        ,rs, ·r:e licg lo inf i:m1! e • ·c -~ii,1U  f)1J J1,1J•P.,\'to f 01·,rm·d our
      Proice List,    t~c.i p J.tt pw  to ,my ,1dd1·cs ~c•il/r.which 1r.e

 I

I_I

THE HAND l\>IACHINE.





  The  l\1ac.hine is fMtenod hy   ::i, Thumb  Screw  to either t.be.
Hand  Appliance  c.u-thn Stand,  ,uul, by bPing rr.111ov,cdft:omon~
to the  ut-her,  it  1nn,.r be workc(l hy bond  ot  loot, u,f, plcaaure.
Pfo.co the  nw,ehin.t! Axac::t.lySquare  on  f,he Htrnd  Appliance  or
St~nd, so Umt the b(!)t and whccJ may work  frcr.ly.

  Tbo  In.strndione;  n.ro mostly  npplicnb}e t◊  both  hand  and
Trct1,dlc movomenh,.  The H1rnd Appli,rnoo 1-e-quiresoccflsional
oiling at  the oil-hole. in  the contrc of tho tldving  wbc~E!i.

                                             -   3   -

DESCRIPTION  OF STAND.





   'l'bo St,uHI, ti~ !5howu in  the 111.i<neent,  com•isl-s of  t.hc TabJe
Top;   Right  L•f:  ; Left Le(:;  Trtiadlc  Roel;  Lnr(:e Wheel,
tul'niug  upon  fl1❖   \\'heel  Stud  ;  Pit.man.  connected at   it:i
upper  cml  with cmuk  o(  U\rgu  Wlrn-01 by  ,ho  Crank   Stud;
:11u1Treadle,  connc-ctcd ,vitb the lower encl of  Pitmall by tb0
Treadle  Stud.

   'l'be  Lat·gc  Wh1•c,J i.s C<ffCI'Cllju  front   lty  n Guard  ~o 1wolA:!ct.
Ute <lre"™o(  ~11(1 \\'Orl.1.!r,  and  i11 ~ n!c.-ss iu this guard  is a smRll
Uuhlx!r  Ba.II, wliich, neting  t\.S n Drnke,   )ff(•,·cut-s ·the wheel £row
t11rni11g the wron~  w~,_v.

                                    -    ,J  -

DESCRIPTION OF lvlACHINE.





                  Fig.  2.-Nttt()Os  or 1hc Par!~ of the Mncldn~.

  Tho abo\'8 cut  shon·s  tho  principnl  pRrts  ofi f,ho l\facbiue  lo
which  1·cfcrcocc is   Jll1'.{ic  iu  ~he cout'se 0(  l-bcse dirccl-ious, hut
 t.bo "Lift-or"   i:s t\nerecl imd now 6Ue,l ouLside of Foot Bar, and
 f.ho "'.l.'nl.c up .. i1:1ns illust.ratetl upon pngo 12.

        TREADLE PRACTICE.
  Defore bcginniDg l,o sew, prnttie6 working Lhe Treadle    ,\·itbottt-
 tbreud  in Lhe ueedh~.tuul  witb Lho Presser  Foot   r:'l.~sedfrom
tho Clot.h  Plate,  unLil you can protfoco a  regulu.r moLion with
·C1100,
  H  is  better to work the  treadle wiLh one  foot,  and,  as  far RS
po!:!aible,by action or tho 1mkl&.
    'l'be Cap which covers tho Looper should be ker,t closed.

                                         -  5  -

NOTES ANO CAUTIONS ABOUT OJLING.
   'L'lw liUlc c-:\ro nccc~;.11·yti, kt;ep the mncltint: f>t'OporlycJe.•nH!tl
 nntl oiled  is amply  rtfJf1,id hr  ,be  ctt.~ :uul  plensaul,uesa 0£ its.
 wol'ldug.
   "·hen  ouly ns~d ()CO\Sion{tlly,t,bo m$lchine slloulcl he oiled nud
 wlpc11~w(1  c)J' Llire<•time.5  ti. week;   if in  consbl.,nt  Ul:IC,  ii; should be
 oile1l cn•ry tlny.  Alw:1y::iwipe ch:n.n hefor~ using.
   "COSMOJ..1~1:   ••  (s.t.tpplie,lhs 111'>nutl onr· <x-rLifi~aAgent$)   ii;  U1~
 l}e$t oil for the sewing  nu\Chine.  U  h:.1.r;t.h!! higbes~  lubric:,ting
power:   it ofo~,n~csnnil hrigbtnns  the be:uiug:-:   it, pn•\·c-nLs rust;
 it nc,·l"t' bceom~  rnnci<I;  it. nc,·or thickens:.,hon~   it does not clog
 the  mac:him.•,'1,nt-kocps  it  in  reucliucss  for  hmno,liut<~ working.
 lisl' nu other  oil  when. H Cos,s1,r,1Nt:   ·• can  possibly  ho obtainc<L
Sent  bi  post  for  ls.  6d. per  bottle.
  Should   the  l\fochine  run  hurcl  from  Jong, disuse   and.
 neglect,   :ipply  a  Hetlc- hcn7.itw  ius(c:-ul  of  oil,  and   after
 wodi..ing   until    ii  ,·nns   frccfy,   uil'~} t-hc m,,cl1inl} $1J1dogniu
~1,1:ply,,il.
  Th( .. nrnchine:-sho\lhi  lJt co,·orcd wb')n nut in 11$1!.
  Th<-ouOOrri111 or I ;ar~I) \\~hC!t•Iof the SLtuuf sbonhl  be Cree from
oil. oibt~t"•'·isc i~ um_y tum  Ul1,ckwarcl. fiiumM   it <lo so, C:1,(chilly
wipo  tbc  rim  of  t.bl!  lti,q;c  wh~('I,  l'uhl  pn&. pow(lered  cbt1lli or
rmmice.st-0110011t,he l'uhber b:dl of the Brnke  to ah$oi:l.>the  oil.
  ShooM  oil get upon the  ~\·ork. rub  l,he spoi  wit,h sot1,1>nnll cold
wntor l,e(ore washing.
    Ne\ 1er  t>Ut oil in or about  tbe Automatic  Tension.

         OILING THE STAND.
  The   St::i.rid rw1uiros oiling  in  or1ly tbree   pl:tees,  at  rncb  of
wbioh  will he  foun-<l oiJ  holeff;  nnmcly-0•11~r-e  Hub  of Large
 1\"bcel, Crnul< Hub of Large Wheel (both to l'ighL of Ibo Pitm,u),
and Tr:etulle Rt  it,  connootion wHh tho l'il,111n.u. (8<"1'flff.  of Stmul
rm 11rrge4.)
   In oiling tbe St.n1H1hrinl:  tbr  toc ◊i  tl,c, 'J'nn,wu:  '1owu to its:
lowest point.    'l'b.is pfoces the Crnnk  l:luh l,ehn,- the Coutre Hub•
of L::irge Wheel. n111lU1c oil,holei:. in both ou ~be llllpcr. side-~Le-
only pooition in which they cnn Lo ruchul.

OILING  THE   ·1AGHINE.





                     Pig   Jj ,-SI,  uwil1_,rplr,i,er,. 1,,, 1.., Oih•rl.
    Clo h  Plat~  (two  o'i]-hol ·s).
    Needle  Bal"  (t.w i  p]accs) a11d !Foot Efar (t1ro  placcis), nhov~
               en.eh boo foA'.
    Needle  Bar  Screw.
    Lenr   Stud.   (JU  hole.
     Shaft.    ( 0 il 1wk.)
    Imwc • encl g[ C nnect:h1g Rod.    (Oil  bule,)
    L-ower eml of  'l'eHs'lon  Rod.    (Oil  lw!e.)
     UF1•e•·erHl u! CounectiHQ, Rod.   {Oil hole.)
  R1,1,nlhe   fo.cliit1e tapid]y  fur n (cw minute.~,  t.o work  ib.ci ori]
inho hhe linnritig.,  t.n.king Clll    l;o rni~I:!'lh  PJ\esser  Foot.    Oa.t·c-
folly  wip{I t e snparllum  s oil from    \'arr  1m-rt  :i l!llYC  the  Cloth
Plate.  Then   1111f:1"" en  thjj  :\l!t'c~1~ne fr~1111  tf1~  '.l'::d1l11;) rmt1 wipe H,o
pi\d~  tmder  the  l: loLl1 Pin.ha.
 n j3 oot, 1urol)S$1H'Y• o ,1~'!l  t:i-~ •i•ew-"lri,·ei·  to  e~t:h UJUJof ~he,parta
whicb re.11iire.oirrig  1tr clei11ni11g.

                                                                i   -

fii:;.  •t-Showi11s::  11lrlc~  1mtitrn(:'nd1    (:Jqt.b  Pla,¢,   •·ht'.I~   the
                                 '.\li1ef1hw ,:Ju.m!tl be oii1.·docew~ion:dh·, wb,m   il    i;  romo"cd from
                                   the    f:llile,    or   81\lltl   AJ1pli1\11cc Jl:,_<r.°c,10 l:e   Cl('..J111Nl (f/d1< rt/~1'1
                             m1>rt' p,1rtic11forly  ta  tl,r  ,,,rH<'t  11mcM11cs 1ritb,J1tf  .,u,,.Jf(l'  j,. Clvt1,
                            Plar,J.

                     1.  Hcmto\·e ~he Mnc11i11efrom th~ Table  by means  or
                  'l'bumb  Screw:  ln.y it down  in Mie posir.io:n shown  h1 abo,·e c
                   (Pig. 4·1; pull ,lown  tho Cop,  fl.nd npply   a, drop  of  oil to  t
                 plnccs mutcmel\l,b tho C.loth Plale,   indie,\l.ed by a,rrows (J?ig. ,
                namely:

                        Shaft,  where it passes ~brougb the (mme.
i
                      Eccentric,  wbieb 01:1cmtesFeed Dnr.

                  Lower en<lof Rocker.

                  Feed  Bar  Stud  nn,1 slot at Imel<end of J."ce-clDar:-.Ii''

2.  Cany  Hie  h11~1"1 ht1h•cou  nicl am1 Autottrntic    'f,cl!lsl!Qn;
           drawing   the  t!1read  inlo  U10   sfot.  t1mle1• the  mp, o[  tension
              (2, Fig.   )·
              ~-  Thro   l from  riglit  ~o ]e(t 'hronrrb  ~he Th.-ead P(q on lhl?
I'          top, of fmme  ,H, Fig_, ).
                       -i.  From  rtigh · t.o le Et lbrcmgh Wire  Staple   (4, F'ig..fl).

                                    ·4..,,:;.-IJ1"t   ·1m1t ·LhJ~I~  thn:t1Ji1,;ll!to.,~I,      l!f "'Pi:in11:111~l1•irll11.:-   ~~t1l,1•.  11 rl •~P.n1,111= Ll;yr;:1tnct.
                      1:l" lio1\r ot  1-u{,0,;t-~tlteh r, ,eJii ll[L'e<I,,1 R l1> ~r:n!m1irl<e•1•

                               (i,   Pns.s  l.1e lm!41.cllln·tmgh  thl:'! cirmdn,r (•pen i11g aL tbe br,j_)of
             the Ti1,k(!'.1_q1BP:t  h1n11cdin,teiJbeliiud tlJC lllef~i11e n11r, Lim l'U -ir,m
             oi which i.-ii'LiHr:lib:~dliy Ji'ig-11™~,  nml 811. Bl• ~1n,, l 1e oo~ton is
                         :i..~  lie l111r.ko[ flat Booe[ siu·iug.     . 'co Fig·.  1~ l!t!jm.·J.



                 7,   'fht'Oll{(h Need.le Eye  ho1t?   l •{t rn right {Fig. 8).
I                    x·ne.~To         d,tll)j:;!   ·~~Hor,  1)11!.:-ldy'<iLt!~   Jtl'\cidtl@ IE thr<)aJ1.. 1:,   ,LL rmi  lire  opu(il  r,l,11.,                 horAlr;:r,llo  H,aurr,,,,,     ..  .,,, n-.i)•.111.¢~l'OQI pill  ~;~1; c,.. I', I  ·,1, ~,~ 1110"1..-,:,, '"~.,   .. i e .. 11.011,1 ,~o
                               f1-1;!,r;ale!-kl biJ,tn!d.  t:1·lint, drf\ii'  ~oC.Wn.dL1~11.1a, it~•c of   Jil!'N    ·,,.     :.\JI:.Ori  ~b!(I   t;:fl{l,tr  li.l:'.ldl,ifl;!.:II                   eo-t  rn th1C11111~h er!,'".!o1:J1t.!t-illt!'  ..

SELECTING  C01TON  OR  SILK.

    Col.f<m m· SHI!  fot  nuLe!iin   ·'Bwing  1111,r  generalJy  Im   b.1·ee,
  siws  fi1.1er Urn.n blmt. Med  ·n  .ha.ncl sewing,   il!J  it, fa sl,roug enmwh
  mid  lmtte·  ar.la  terl  to  U.1e., ork:.   J.ior i E1rat1ae wh  1·e 40 ooU.011
  won hi   l:ie Ufl•c:1 in  haml  11ewiHg,  11 c 60   ei·  'FO c-otbo11on  the-
  i\llaebi m.!.  11l1P  fvllowi1.ll{rnl.<ls on tbis an bJP.etm11.y  Ii!~ 1,1sefoJ:-
      Foir (;illico, kmg cloth,  elc..        ... Us,e OotLon  "os. GO to  80
      l"<Jr liue  l1urn, llflll>sooks ebr·.  ~-.     ,,             .,     100  l.n J.fiO
      f'or IinC! lin •ns                               ...      ,,             ,,      80  ,to 1211J
       F'ur li"'M Wt)ol1ims, l11mncls,etc.      ,,            ,,     lO to  60
       Ji'or hen ·y  00H1m s                             ,,             ,,     20 to  40
                  •                                          ,,           .,   W to  70
      1-'or 411· ·ru:ikiu~             O•'  Silk Nos .. 2'!  or  f.lO (eq11al lo A or 0
                                      in ~bC!'• '.l'ii.hfo'')
     li'ur-h1~111ming:,;ilk,1~te,; Silk Nn. 86 (QqtmJ <1 0   in lho   ' Ttl fo ")
     Fear f'n1lH'oidur,\·•      ...      .,,  8 to 10     ..  For   .,    ,          ,.
     For  hrai,1tn,ir...                   .,   no     .,   O
                                                    01·  01.1t.l.r~II N0, 70.
    Au,\' _go,1rlcottou  wr1rks \l°el.i on  l.be  }fo  bhui t:x~pt   ,,or}' line
                 ll                    lhl    I·,. ts     [! f               f'•I                        ([    I\ni h( ]_  F'Ql'   bin.ck          OJ'   t'tllo11red co   ttotl.S    uae  l)ll                                "'
 µ,-!:Leofii1isl1 11.  Sof  fh1i·sl1H1.Ihlnck  n<l ooio11red cottons wiU 0€te;1
 hn·11l,  i•i' work  rn~ 11.l-is r111Clri1·il,y.t so gln.c • coL!4)11in  pfocl! of  Ii 11~ u
 U11·mil.
      THE AUTOMATIC  TENSJON.
    'l'hi> Autom111tic  Teu:Sjon.   i;; not   lia,bl·'  h.11  gt>t  ol1t  of  ord<?t;
 ib will remain  p •1-fectly r«1jm;l«l  nml   1'lelr-1•~1;11ln,ih1,g,if  11ot.
 huupero~l vri~h.
   X<->t~.-Ellt,   ol u,- ,ul @r " d<!pn<H al   Ii llUiO  ti,    !,,lin~il,n ,a 1  ,,,..,_.,tir,;      <lllil'"! /hmi,ki~11
  (Ir  1:ll~ r-:i1:t1m DI'  in·,r•f.;"'Uln.t-Uy1·11 i:'ltJ~5,~i;;-i11~  ..  Stie ■ciJ  t,,bi,i41~[!fll'"~  rmi:R, t-11.e e:e~~  bm; i.o,H:il
  hi~11e:;1.    i llt.  a.ml 1dU1 ;\ :fitif:  ¢.ftlitrhrfo1JllDt!tlle•  t11.1ehfl.1);1,'R-1ihc .n.:s1m~     of' U}e  '1',1!1);6110:nr IIJ! 11
  piiri; ,n.11t ,;In~     tr IL'd iou,

  We t-epe11t the  el\\l tim1 : Do not oU tbe  1'ensio.n..
  TO PLACE THE \VORK AND BEGIN
                SEWING.
  Ra"ae the 11ectUe lo  its  l:ii:ghe:st point,  also bho Pnasser   Foot.
Place   f,h~  wol'k  uoder   t.hc  puint-  ,of  t.bo  11111Jcil•     ,Se{)  tha-~ two
or  throo  inches  of  thread  are  dr&ll'U   Lhrnngh   t.ha eye  uf  the


                             -H-

neoo'le,"' bu~  th  re mush be 110 slack  thread  between   lhc  11ee,lle-
  OJO and  tho  tcnsiou.   Pa   !'I £b~ thread   1.1.mhr-t,bo P  esser  Poot_,
 t-0w rds  thl" fo(t..  Lee down  the Fress~r  Fooi,  the  ~lu:end being
  held  betwe  II th~  PreR    i- Foot, ond UHr HH'lf.iari!l.l,Lo~ ,no! d~aU-0n
  t·igl.l.
   Tho  Urre:t(l may be  held  unde[  ebe finger  lightly; i.nsklnd  of
 being  pa:ss~cl nmim· the  PrcS5ecr  oot.    Ill  this  cn.<:ie ho]d  i • to lhe
 dg:M 11nm tum .st.itch'1sn.ro 1;11:ldf!.   If  hoLil  to{,I  tigMly  the  ~hm1tl
 wiU brook  at the fir~L sLi!.::Lt.  If  'it should  sru1.,ptwic-c in aucecm,1011
  it  is probaMy  'ln111nd r01md  the.  foop-e:r l\lld  mtIBt• Lo ti!lno'l'ed
 before skuting  abesh.    (,~ee.:Lloper  Scissors,   page 81.J
     NOJ'B.-U   Id, mnmb!    fs -.er~  1:,r,.,,1Mlil ;l  •    tt. tq ~mt,,,.        t:lie Uiw <1!smin dJOOJ~h
  mbbod.  wl:tb ,·Ith.I !10"-!',

TO FASTEN  OFF  THE  SEAM AND TAKE
          OUT THE  'WORK.

   Tu fa;,"le-nf~(j rd hnd of ll'ork.   :."ow Loj•oud  fl.10 end  of seam hto
•stUdres.  ~-lt.1niii.mu ~bis m :iy 1m1,\'~ l.lrn seam onloc kcd.   ,Al~yays
 stop  ~1th  t:fae noodle  at  its: high.est point.         '\-\1i b the leU biu: d
 elltcb  th,e thre.,d  be,twcen U1  n•e~He and  th~ad    pi,1 {O, I ig.   ),
 m:id pull  !!'-OlllC shwl,  'h~·ougli    ll'lf!  Le11sio11."'    1int,b  Im  i·igl1  thaw
 lbe   'a.ck H1ro11gl-i~he e" e oJ the  11c0Jle mid  p11 I!  it  upwn.rd from
 the work Un i~ b ·ealis:.  Lift   thli  Presser    l•oot.    Pnll  the  worlr
fron, you:, t~ml U1(! e11d of  the  thre:'1,a will  111  ilm,;rn  ~brough tl1e
 loop.   Pnll  the 0ml o{ thread  lu t,ighten the kllot.
      · o J,1- l-t11 ajJ in  aic H ork-Stop    wi h  negille  n·  l:tigbes  point,
 1:n.·e!Lktile   tb:t'l'!l'11 as  i1l_10\·emul  lo ke out  t,ho wo  - tlnm  p1tll  he
 threa,1  hacl1 on  tJu~ sen.m to &igh"'1n.  0  i: ~t,01.11,lbe  n  fillle, i1~ lhe
 wor.k a-a it- i!o  l'is.ing, plncc  tho  fiiagcir"S<m ihe  work- t:Joge, to Um
Presser   Foot   to prewen  work  ffoin  mo·'l"ing,. mis:o  the  .Pres:rer
 li'oo  ,  fll'.I(] make. oao m.ore sti ti -  i 2 tJ ~ Inst hofo mC1de.
          '.l.'o    fw.;Jen                 , 'eam    to    he  aj'tcn~-arJ.sC11l' (as   iil  jiiti-,i~ Gar-me11ts)..-
8e<111118Ul!1~ roquiro  kl   b   e,11L Crom l,he  flniBh.i-11g           end   shm.1.M be
fastt!oocl by sewi1 g  bt~ck iu  U1.G ame  row  or  11·~11clib1g& liute
beyond  •   ~~ po 1n  o-( cu Uiog;  or  Ui,e sli ~chi.tig m fl.,Yhe. done from


      •  Ullllf',J; It,  io""11e 1bc Ill.'1l itH ll~ri<lt   (1<11':nt,l,h,i tbm,,!  is~ td   'f  tll!ii 1,,qt,;,;;1,-tlr- '.l"o~~,..,
 Mel  ,:,,r.,11.<)~ be dn.,.c  LILllMr~l:J.

                                                 -     la--

el\d1 en•1,finishing-in (or t.owcml)Lbe.tni(l11Jeo( &.ht1i;cam.  (Scnins
 finished iu  this wny o.rP.nlwa.ysper£e.r.tly$Olhl, o,,en ofter the end
 isentuff.)      Ir  it  i:s nc'<?cssaryto cut  tbo finishh1g c-ml of   ti. g(mm
 t.bn.t hns not been fnstcucd as n.bo\·c, intme<.li&fclynJler culting,
 rc-loek t.be:se:-uuhy in!Jertinga pin Lltruugl1Urn loop on U1Quntler
 sido of  tho  Sot11h, pulling  tho. cwt or  the  Lhrcit1Al~hrough, and
 1ln1,wiogit back upon U1(!seam.
       l'\'nm..-•n.,  ~wtl!.: m.11;~tuttb~    «rptn    fl) l,e klo ~t,    be::~U I.be J(f'tcltol)t\\ro  J«lowM
  thi$  l'ill oot, I:") tbet-...-..-:-.u~ l1Y.1,ei1w.;;beln;111(1,\l'Nl&t«ti.an fa llC'l.'t~       tel alJl)W li:r Ibo- Gl)(HU
  hth•s  W!\'../ltl•.t.-0, !<-~•i~11:-e11,e ~11iJitc  clM!idtr.
      TO TAKE OUT A SEAl\1.
   lL is on<!of 1,1.Jedceid0(1 nd,·1,ntnges of  this  Machine that  tho
 sawi!lS can be taken out, i£ toqttfrcd, without injuring  the mnt-Orinl,
 hy timply unlocking U1e !';t'.Un  ,d any 1:ioint"Jnud <lrawiug 011i  the
 tbrcn.d.                                                             •
  Tho scam can   I)(! taken  0111, Qnk  in ooo direeti<m, ,·iz., iown.rds
 the point or  sh\r'Ling.  His  Lbcro£~l'Cwell Lo hP.giu nll seams from
the 1indmos:t e:i:{lo~d.
       TO TURN A CORNER.
   Rt.op with  t.b.c needle  raiscc1 to  Ht-!highc&t point;  raiso tbe
Pressel· Foot  ttn•l tum  tbe work, U1e tbrea<l orily aef.ing l\S a
ph·oL.  Shonld the work becom~ dispbeed,  ro•:.'tdjui:.tit ao  tlui,t
tho noodle will e1lter   IL~ the proper cli.sl,oueefrom the 11\S,stitcb;
let. down the .Presi..erFoot nnd proceed.
    ACCIDENTS TO THE l\1ACHINE.
   In case o[ ncci1l<-nt.1 Ull$Crcw m:lcbinc from stand,  paolt i& tigbUy
in   1t, smnll hox ~o Hu~, jt. will not ~et ,d111-lu.mllhont in transit, and
sen,t  it  to  OJI<' of 0111: olficc-.sfor  ropnir.  Tie a enrd ttith nam&
nn1l [nil adclr~s  to the machine, n.nc.la.th-·iscthe omce to whic.b iL
is scml Mi lo p:u·tieulnf1t.git·ing  tlie number of &ho mnebine.  Do
 tlot  settd tlie tlmmb•~tr.1,,; or t'ICf!e.i;.~rics.
 ~ ':\~ere,·u.~e ft  .~r...,c.drhv.:r #)JOit  lite machine: or allow an
11.t1.i;.kill~dmeeJ1mtfr to tttu111er witl1 ·it.
  Tbe following nctt5sotics nceo1J\J)nny cncb. mn.cbine :-
  Guide  nnd  Goido Screw i  Self  Sewer;  Co,mnon  Demmer;
Quilter;  Gntberet·;  Neetlle ,vrcncb:    Stilot.f.o; 1 D02en Ne-e<.llea:
Oiler  (filled) ; nnJ n book of Directions.

                                             -   16   -

THE  GUIDE.





                fi'askn Gulde A t.o Cloth Plate by Guide Screw  J>, n.s for
           from fh~~JH':C(lloM you wish t•hesowing from ~ge  of the work.





                THE SELF -SE\1/ER.f
             Fnsten 11,o Self-Sewer   to  tloo Cloth  Plate   l.oy 11,o Guide
           Screw,  dmw •bo et,,tb bolweon tbe  plat,a  ol  tbo Self-Sewer
            ngainst the guidti pius, ahd s11pport-tb&work fiO U1ni its weight
             sloes noi draw i• 0111 of lhc Self-Scw~r.

                                                                                          -         ]j'     -

TO REGULATE  LENGTH  OF STITCH  TO
    SIZE  OF  TI-IRE.AD OR  SULK USED.





     Siz!:'11~! ~ilt  11or1·0spondiag
          "fl 6lll. eq ua!s   o.  Jill.           A csllk  e, mils  • 'o,  !!~,
           I     .,         No.  12.                       01    111          ..    Nlo, 30.
     U    ,.         No.   6.                   (KJ1 ·~            .,      t,1(1. 36 .
      B   ,,                f,lo. 20.                          f.llffl  ,.         .,,  No. fll.

   St-0.m,pedur on the Cloth  Pla.te  i.s 11>•• T11.he •• €Fig. 9) showing
 tbll  propcei:sioo of  ,iooclle anil  lengUi of  stitch  for en.cit slz.e o-f
,cot;ton or  silk..   (  OI' ·,e,xamplc: U',or , o. 7C11coHon  or O i;fk-
egm1-l •o No. 80 silk-1100 No. 2 needle, n.n • 22  stikhc.~  to  the
.inch).   ~.l'othe  left  11( tMs  "'!'able'       ii; o.slot~ in ,a shi@lcli.uacriberl
"S,tl,tchP.$ lo on  inch,..  to  1n i,,ka ~ho kmg~h of   r;,U ch rerJuin'!a,
mova, l'he b!l.mJie of  Stitch  Regulato1·  tmi.i  tho  f)N[Jt!r  uumlier
t~ppe.o.rsthr-011gli the. sM.    'Ji'ha length   of  $ti tch   t n dicated
by the  "Table''  on the  cloth  plate sn ould  al ways, be
used. as  the  prO'per  elastidt,y  will then  be seemed   in
all  seams. A  strict  adherence   to the    .. Tabla..   will
always  ensure good and dllI'able work.

                                                -    11!1 -

Thrf!iul (/or  gotl1eri11901ily) ns shown t\hcwo, lo~-.ing the coiLc
 (lU~  of Pull  Off  (.1), a111ltlrn.w it  dirGtt  from Lha reel  into   tl
-g«)(),·e of !he Automatic  Tension   (2), then lo Thread  Pin (S
•e.tc.,o.sus.nnl.

   Pince  tho  work  in  the  oo.li11t1,rywa-y, :nntl  allow  iL to  fc<
 f=ly.
    If   it doe,,not gulhm·full <:t1()11gh,lcnglbcn  lbo stitch;  or incrct\!
 tho t~n1:1ion,l,y t.n.kinghoh1 Q( tho th1·~t\d tiel,wcen the Automa,i
 Tension  (2) o.nd tbo Thread  Pin  (fi),ancl wim.Uu~ it  (lllCO  ogn:
 in  groo,·e  of Tension   twith  ncc,Ho  llt  highest  poiul)-noL  mo·
 thnn  lhrt)e  l,imcs  jo  111!. J(  too full-, ~hor(ou  s~Hch, or  unwin
-cxtt"1\coil o( tbr<.mdfn-,m Tension.

  Tho fulncs.s o(  gi\tbering depeiuls on so(l.n,el)S  of ge1ods,lcugt
 of  stit-cb, ar.ul tiglitne~~ o( tension,

   For nain~ook, 10 atifehcs to  tlu~ ineh1 r1ud no e:-ctra.h1rns c
 thrcnd n.roond Tension,   or at most one Lurn. will anawer.
    l•'or cnlic<l, 12 siitchcs  V> J.J1einch, and  l.hre~ turns  rouml ~t
·Tension  may be rcqllirei:1.


   TO GATHER  and  SE\V on BAND  at
                     SAi'\IIE  Tll\iE.

    Pill  Gatherer  on Presser   Foot.    1'h.rend ns  for  onlir:iar
·Se.wing, wit-h No. 00 or 70 cotton, using 12 stitches  to ,he ind
 Put Lbc piece  to he glllh<'retl untlcr  t,he biuu1, holding  bs11d wit
.right  bond,  ancl nuder  piece wi~b left.

   Holtl hook bnml, so Lhn.t focclca.n only make  !-hort f:ltiLcbes.

   The  fuJuet-:-~nnd  l'cgulorily  of gath~ring  1lcp0n<l entirely upo
.the skill of opernl~r in liol<liugbond (See R'1nlcr, p. 29).

                                              -   20   -

TO BRAID.





                                            ig,  l-1.-Bm.idinr,

  Pus  i:be bra.id  be: ween  th~  ,oes of  the  Special  Brniding   ..J'
Presser Foot.   um  the   1lll,tcrisl so  a.s ~o follow  any  de!lired
pri.~bern. Io  turnfog  ~quaro roruerR   (. ,w dirretiou  "To   lttm  ~
Cnr:ner;.'' p1~gel6),. dr6'w u;p the hl'i!lid 11-litHc before 11gaii:Ista.rting.
Use from 16 &o 20 11Litchosto  tfo:i in~h.  (See Vibr11.tor,page 80) ..

                                    21   ·-

THE EXTRA  ACCESSORIES   .
    .r:\ se , ol  i m l,Jfl t:m t  11,1u.l~aefo? uppli11nce~ is  h1cJiule,cI in  our
..'C'11seof   .\ ooesso,-ies.  '   8 eHrral of Hie    at lac,;hme1n   hlli:e  been
. lightly  moil ifietl,  but  lhe rm:trim ~j ons  for  their  use t·-cm11inf..he
:-iMlle,
          NARRO\V  HEl\.lMER,





                                                      =·•   ...u.~
                                                                      ~-~4-:~7
      ~




                           1                                                               l


   Fa.~ n   il,a  N3rru'\\'I-' He~mmer   to  th  ·Cloth  Plate  wHb  tl:io
Hemmer    ut.   n~,i!i~ Presser  Foot,   !\.ntlwithout  a11y fohling
.r11ss tbe  eclgs of  la.bric  to  l 1e bem:rned beJtwce11Um .JJlades  1.l
n.nd C.   '\Yith ihe SU1etto  (St!? Fig .. I 0) pn -h forwi111l   lie, gom:fa

until  tbe front, l"(lge {46)  is 11111101:the  n!!ec11r.. LoL down  the foo
                   nud. proceoo,  keeping  i:bc oogo of  i&lrngooiL  ng1tina,1,tfa1 tnro  o
                     tha Hemmer  -U).





              A~ tho falJ1•ie p11,,!;S@;;Uui Hem.mer,  ~he fi11 "~r pl11.ceclagninsi   i·
                               !Lil sbot1rn hi Fig.   l 1  111nTrnsi  1·L111md, !:!lrfiig7r.thu Iii~ eml o[ hem,
            H  .it  il!I n1ecessfirS to adm  tl1e mn terial  out  of Um Henune
                   oofor,a flnishi.ng,  without.   '[('>lf.ing it f,c-cdtbroush,  rnise tho l'resse
                 Foot  a'iHl pnll  tlrn wm·k. Jrnm yo,t • uoh l,1~d.:w!lt,ils,o.r siclewn,y!!, c
 r               you ,vi •l injm"  the Hen11net\
i!
  I               1n hcu1inin~ mie !he  u1::n,Llarger  st[LC:b to tJ11.1,l,inclimited by tb.l
  t                      ••b~h1e•· on  i:-hc (~Loth  Plate;   Urnfi, [cw 'jO coU-Qin'lli!O 20  st.ii:ch(
                     to the  iti  }1, i1rt<m4 of 22, M  tbo  footling is refau·ded rome11r·ha~h
                    tbe ;Hetnurnr.
                            '!'he Hemmer   Blades   !houM ue.•.-el'lie 1:Jcmt.
           'TO 1\.IAKE NARRo,v   HEr.-l AND SE'W OJ
               TRl1\IMIN G AT THE SAME   Tll\.:IE.
                     Pl1u:e  e,lga  of  trimming  be~w~m  hem   n,ncl feed  rmrfac
                  guiding  with  tiager     ~(1  11s kl slikh   e,lge fast lumootb bem.

THE   l\.1EDIUM  HE_·fMER.
  Tlbe Medium Hemmer,.  li\e tbe Narrow Hemmer,  tu.rna the
i'EIW edg  under, and is used in pl'ooii:;.elyt,he Honie  mannor, mfbltiog
a  horn of  aboo.t  Hiroo-sixtoon.ths ol   t~!li inch.  tn widlh.     .lt  is
am,fd1mblein dt'•l!Ssnnking hcuuning  table and liieil linen, 0tc:.

   THE  FELLER  and  ·wtDE  HEMl\.iER.

  The  Faller   1s: uscfol  in making  undcrclolhing   as   it  turns
11 be1u1t-ifoUyuoot aud: ttniform  foll, no fackmg   Ot'  flxing  being
req~iroo..  U m11y nlr;.o be  r1ae1:la  a hermner whoo & wld r
11em }s  requircil   t.lrn.n hose  t-urncd by  t.l,e h(!r:mnors already
  o.seribetl.

    TO  I\11.AKE A FELLED  SEAM.





                                     -  211 -

La~,·the ~wo pieces ono upon th(', otbc.r, the undct piece projecting
beyond the upper.  Sew them  togct.bor wit.b the nuwbiue, t1,Howiog
lol' n.scnm o[ such t\'idth ao will be suita.l,Je to the mRterinl.   Turn
the V1·orl<ovor, open  it- out ,~ml crc.i_iicU,e !:-e.11111,lown with  the
nnrrow e1lgo iu~i(lc.  l'lwn nUacb  the FellCJ' tltH1iu:-erl tbe edgo
AS in  Fig. JS:  bol<l tho sc:un, where  it  hi join-Afl,well up ngoinst
the side or the bh«le or Urn Feller  (1, Fig, 19): keep  it in  this
position, as the woi·k p.i.sses Unon:rh, by pr,!~-sing it. geufly  nga.inst.
the  blilde of  tbe Feller   "'·ith tho  liri;t. liligcr of tho right ht\nd;
n.t.the so-we timo with  the  left hnnd lu~op th~ work smooth, Bud
gently gnidt.\ Cowan.lsthe lert.

  1~befirst· i-st•:,111of n r..-11on ~he·l,ias sliouhl alwnys be hegun from
tho hnrrow end of tho work.

   Lr tht!- feller   (l<lt!~=noL Lum in 1\II l,hc nlw edge of l,he m11tcl'inl,
1ho ~m    is too witlc.





                         Pig, 1!1,-Finl~hin.c:   ll Felle(l &:\111.



                                             -   26   -

TO MAKE  A WIDE  HENJl.





                                       ]fiB- !:!Q.-Ilegimi.ic,g     ll\ W[rlo Hem.


                                1 be edge lo oohem1:ne~lshould  bCl out  inst.cau oI tO!tn;  for iE
          he edge is strotche;,t lhr-ou"h ooitlg tum, or othernfae,  the mntcdal
        whem tbe ·emu  i ~ewn ml1::!t be st1dcl1ecl !.o1111eqital leugtb..  T e
             ru.nhe.TiaJ lllill5I  he  fold-ea rlCJ\\'I! tn·et1ly. ancl   distinctly    Cl'e11Seil  rl
             lihtle  widl!I!'.'t,b.:om~he wich,li of hem d~sircd.    '•'h   -et1ge i.. then
            pltice1l in tho Henuner    (.}1'i~.  20).  folfi  (t. ) eat  ring  under  the
           up1.11!rlilade  {l),  rnul fol   (,!H) pll!!eiug ov r iL   'rhie OO"llo( tho
                                               11nl1;i.m1-t t.he turn  of  t-hc bfadc at (52) tlm·ing·,l.      mat~rial  is kept op
           lhe procoss of stitd:iing  n,e  hem..   Thi!'l   i!:i gen  ndl); ikm~ Ly  l.,o
             oi(l of ~he guiil,e, wliif:.h sctv•es to gnide  llie   \\'Ol'k,   f.m1lhOiMU1e.
          ,eogc in lhe Hemmer.