Sewing machines
"Noiseless" Willcox & Gibbs - 1921 — User manual
User manual for "Noiseless" Willcox & Gibbs - 1921. 43 pages in English. Read the original PDF, download or print a copy without registration.
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- Brand
- Willcox & Gibbs
- Model / document
- "Noiseless" Willcox & Gibbs - 1921
- Document type
- User manual
- Language
- English
- Pages
- 43
- File size
- 29.5 MB
- Category
- Sewing machines
- Document date
- Published 1921
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Page 1 · Read text
DIRECTIONS
FOR SING
WILLCOX & GIBBS
AUTOMATIC
Noiseless Sewing Machine
TRADE MARK.
Fac-simile of Gilt Medallion upon bate of each Machine
Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Company
Home Offices
658 Broadway, Corner of Bond Street
NEW YORK
BRANCHES IN PRINCIPAL CITIES
See List, Inside Back CoverView original page 1Page 2 · Read text
BEST SEWING MACHINE OIL
Good Sewing Machise Oil is essential to the
proper working and wearing qualities of our
machine. You are absolutely sure of getting
THE BEST if you purchase from us.
Most of the sewing machine oil kept on sale at
other places is liable to gum up the machine and
cause you trouble and unnecessary expense and
repairs.
We guarantee our Oil to be the best for the
purpose in every respect, and can send it by mail
or express.
Via mail including box and postage, 30 cents per bottle.
TRADE MARK CAUTION
The medallion shown upon the title page is our
Registered Trade Mark, We, therefore,caution
the public against purchasing any sewing machine
purporting to be of the ""Willcox & Gibbs system"
or manufacture, whether"Automatic" or"Ten-
sion," which has not this Medallion upon it.
W. & G. NEEDLES-CAUTION
SAMAR BAS
Needles not bearing both stamps W. & G.J and
PAT. MARCH 10, 1801 as shown above, are spurious.
andBuyyouNeedleswill beofsureus directto get orblyat"Genuine.our Branch Offices,You are
almost certain to get worthless imitations (called Will-
cox and Gibbs Needles) from SewingMachine agents
and dealers, and from fancy goods stores.
The perfect or even satisfactory working of our ma-
chine depends upon using Genuine Needles.
Needles offered at less than ourprices are not
genuine, are liable to injure the machine, and cause
great dissatisfaction and annpyance in use.
Needles, as well as Cotton, Silk, &c., can be forwarded
by mail.View original page 2Page 3 · Read text
WILLCOX & GIBBS
AUTOMATIC
HIGHEST STANDARD OF EXCELLENCE.
All Working Parts Thoroughly Hardened.
NO. 6.- DROP CASE.
This style is in Quartered Oak or in Black Walnut, having four Drawers with
Locks. The Top or Leaf forms anExtended Table when opened for use. Orna-
mental Iron Stand on Casters. The Treadle works on knife-edge bearings.
Hand Attachment Only, $7.50
Automatic Machine with Hand Attachment,
ready for use.
Any of our Automatic machines when removed from the Table can be easil
fastened to theHand Attachment by, Screw (furnishedAttachment), and the Machine can then be used by hand on any tabie.with
ine,Ladieswill findspendingthis compacta fewHandweeksMachineace aseesgreatretiteconvenience.centry When packedel
tue trunk it occupies little space.
TRAVELING CASE.
For the traveler we
enclose the Hand Machinerecommendand protectthe itusefromof dustour Blackand damage.Walnut or Oak Case to
WILLCOX & GIBBS S. M. CO.View original page 3Page 4 · Read text
• WILLCOX & GIBBS SEWING MACHINE CO.
Attachments.
The followingAttachments are supplied without extra
charge with each Machine (except that with Styles No. 2,
Table, The Awake, eat , did Lehin or Alled Witnes
are not included). When required separately, the prices
are as follows:
TUCKER, a simple and useful attachment, which
marks andcreases desired width of
tuck, while the previous one is being stitched see
page 35 .. $3.00
RUFFLER, made especially for the Willcox & Gibbs
Automatic Machine. it gathers, forminga beautiful
Ruffle as fast as an ordinary seam is sewed, and if de-
sired, sews on the band at the same time.
See page 34...... 3.00
*LINEN OR FLANNEL HEMMER (turns a hem
much wider than the Narrow Hemmer), and is spe-
cially adapted to hemming Alpacas, Woolens, heavy
Cottons or Table Linens. See page 24.......... 2.00
*NARROW HEMMER, for turning and stitching
very narrow hems. See page 23.......... 2.00
*WIDE HEMMER, which is also the FELLER,
for turning in the edge and stitching all wider hems
after they have been folded the desired width, and for
finishing fells after the first seam has been sewed.
See pages 25 and 27... 1.50
HEMMER NUT, to fasten either hemmer .20
BRAIDER, made to order. See page 3I.
GATHERER, when in use, is attached to the Press-
er-foot. See page 30..... .25
QUILTER, for executing any description ofguilt-
ing in parallel lines, diamonds, checks,&c., without
marking. Also used as a top guide when stitching
3-ply*tucks, and for other similar purposes.
page 29 •25
Dozen Needles (25 cents ½ dozen—5c. each). .48
Needle Wrench I5
Guide .20
Guide Screw •25
Bottle of Oil • 15
.I0 Oil Can
Belt •35
Bodkin .05
*Our Hemmers are all attached to the Cloth-plate (not to the Presser-foot).
and are self adjusting. The Hem is turned underneath so that the stitching
is done, as it should be, on the right side of the fabric.
See Caution about Needles and Oil inside front Cover.View original page 4Page 5 · Read text
THE AUTOMATIC.
IMPORTANT
To Owners of the Willcox & Gibbs
Noiseless AUTOMATIC Sewing Machine.
€ Do not allow anyone, claiming to have been sent
by us, to repair or even examine your AUTOMATIC Sew.
ing Machine, because we do NOT employ traveling agents
or repairers for this purpose.
If you want your Automatic Sewing Machine to give
the very best, and most satisfactory service, you must avoid
use of Imitation Needles, Cheap Oil or Counterfeit Parts.
Machines are often injured through disregard of these sim-
ple warnings.
Should your Sewing Machine from any cause fail to
work properly, time and money will be saved by communi-
cating directly with us, giving full explanation of the diffi-
culty. Or better still, send the Machine Head at once to
us, or to one of our Branch Offces (see List, inside
back cover), where only what is needed will be done:
Genuine parts only will be applied, and by workmen who
understand their business and have the proper tools for
making repairs.
Do not trust your Machine to a general sewing ma-
chine repairer, to risk his use of imitation parts, and who
has neither the proper tools nor experience necessary to do
the work as it should be done.
We prefer, when delay is allowable, to estimate cost
of repairs (after receipt of machine) and then ask owner
for instructions before repairing it.
Machines rented, repaired and exchanged.
Any supplies needed can be sent by mail, on receipt of
letter enclosing postage stamps, or money order, covering
proper amount.
Cotton—10 cents a spool, or $1.20 per dozen — sub-
ject to change without notice. Add 5 cents a dozen for
stopage.
Colored Cotton, and Spool Silk, we always carry in
stock.
Oil-15 cents per bottle. If ordered by mail, add 15
cents to cover mailing box and postage.View original page 5Page 7 · Read text
THE AUTOMATIC. 5
I.-DIRECTIONS FOR USING
THE WILLCOX & GIBBS NOISELESS
AUTOMATIC SEWING MACHINE.
Description of Stand.
TABLE TOP
ARGE WHERE
QUARD
LEFT LEG
RIGHT LEA
CASTOR
CASTOR READLE
CASTOR:
Fig. 1-Names of the Parts of the Stand.
The Stand, as shown above, consists• essentially of
the Table Top; Right Leg; Left Leg; Treadle Rod;
Large Wheel, turning upon the Wheel Stud; Pitman,
connected at its upper end with crank of Large Wheel
by the Crank Stud; and Treadle, connected with the
lower end of Pitman by the Treadle Stud.
The Large Wheel is covered in front by a Guard to
protect the dress of the operator, and in a recess in
this Guard is a small Rubber Ball, which, acting as a
Brake, prevents the Wheel turning the wrong way.View original page 7Page 8 · Read text
6 WILLCOX & GIBBS SEWING MACHINE CO.
Description of Machine.
SPOOL, PIN
SPOOL PIN HOLDER
TAKE UP PULL
OFF
AUTOMATIC
TENSION
LIFTEB→
- TENSION ROD
FOOT BAR - BALL STUD
NEEDLE BAB
SCREW LEVER STUD
-NEEDLE BAR _ CONNECTINGROD
PRESSER FOOT-
-NEEDLE BAR NUT
CLOTH PLATE
NEED SURFACE
RED BAd
SMALL WHEEL
- LUNK
"STITON
LOOPER
ROCKER TO FRAME
Fig. 2-Names of the Parts of the Machine.
This illustrates the principal parts of the Machine, to
which reference is made in the course of these Direc-
tions, and a careful study of which will be found
exceedingly helpful to the learner.
Treadle Practice.
Before commencing to sew,practicerunningMachine, with one foot, without thread in the
Needle, and with Presser Foot raised from Cloth
Plate, until you can with ease produce a regular
motion.
The Cap that covers the Looper must be kept
closed while practising or sewing
as Weit runsadviseso veryuse oflightly.one foot only in running Machine,View original page 8Page 9 · Read text
THE AUTOMATIC.
Oiling.—Notes and Cautions.
A little care bestowed in properly oiling and clean-
ing Machine will abundantly repay owner in ease of
running and general comfort.
Use oil put up expressly by us, which is decidedly
best for the purpose, and can be obtained at any of our
Branch Offices. Should Machine run hard after
standing for some time (which it may do if any oil
except ours is used), oil with a little kerosene or
benzine, and after running it a few minutes, oil again
with our sewingmachine oil. (See "Best Sewing
Machine Oil' on inside of front cover.)
A bottle of oil and an oiler accompany each
Machine sent out by us.
The Machine should be cleaned and oiled two or
three times a week, or every day, if in constant use.
Keep outer rim of Large Wheel, underneath Table,
free from oil. This will prevent its turning backward
in consequence of oil reaching Rubber Ball. Should
it do so, wipe outer rim of Large Wheel and Rubber
Ball thoroughly with a cloth, then apply powdered
chalk or pumice stone to Rubber Ball.
If oil gets on your work, rub the spots with soap and
cold water before putting garment in the suds.
Oiling the Stand.
The Stand requires oiling in only three places, at
each of which will be found oil holes, namely — Wheel
Stud, Crank Stud (both to right of Pitman), and
Treadle at its connection with Pitman. (See Fig. 1,
on page 5.)
To oil them move toe of Treadle to its lowest point.
This will raise both Stud oil holes to the top-the
only position in which they can be reached for oilingView original page 9Page 10 · Read text
WILLCOX & GIBBS SEWING MACHINE CO.
Oiling the Machine.
It is not necessary to use a screw driver to get at any
of the Parts requiring oiling or cleaning
All our later improved Automatic Sewing Machines
have "Oil Holes" in Cloth Plate, and all Parts under-
neath Cloth Plate are oiled by simply applying a drop
of oil in each "Oil Hole," (Fig. 3) and need not be
removed from table as shown in Fig. 4.
Occasionally Machine should be removed from Table
and cleaned underneath.
OIL-
OIL-
OIL- OIL.
OIL
OIL
OIL-
OIL
ONL
OIL- DIL-
OIL
Fig. 3.
Oil all places on Machine as here indicated. Do not
oil the Automatic Tension.
Run Machine rapidly for a few moments to work
oil into bearings, taking care to raise Presser Foot.
Carefully wipe superfluous oil from every part you
can reach, without removing Machine from Table.View original page 10Page 11 · Read text
THE AUTOMATIC.
Sewing Machine Oil.-Caution.
Use only oil put up by us, and you will avoid
unnecessary expense in frequently having your machine
cleaned and repaired. See inside Front Cover.
Oil
oil
Fig. 4-Shows Places to be Oiled underneath Cloth Plate in
our Earlier Automatic and B Sewing Machines, which
do not have"' Oil Holes" in Cloth Plate.
Remove the Automatic B-Machine from Table by
means of Thumb Screw; lay it down in position
shown in Fig. 4; pull down the Cap and apply a drop
of oil to the places underneath Cloth Plate indicated
by arrows.View original page 11Page 12 · Read text
10 WILLCOX & GIBBS SEWING MACHINE CO.
Setting the Needle.
This operation so important, and in other Machines
so difficult, is rendered easy and certain by the patented
improvement, applied to the Automatic Sewing
Machine.
Fig. b-Inserting, or Taking
out the Needle. Fig, 6-Pushing up the Needle.
Let Presser Foot down on Cloth Plate by turning
Lifter to right or left; raise Needle Bar to its high-
est pointby turning
Small Wheel; then hold-
ing Needlebetween
thumb and finger
(Fig-5), and with groove
toward the left,let its
point go down into
"Needle-hole" in Plate
until you are able to
bring shank of Needle
directly under end of
Needle Bar.If it does
not readily enter, roll it
between thumb and fin-
ger while pressing it up,
Fig. 7-Fastening the Needle, and it will soon find its
• proper position and en-
ter easily. Then push Needle up as far as you canView original page 12Page 13 · Read text
THE AUTOMATIC.
with the fingers: then apply slot in Wrench (27, Fig. 6)
below the taper on the Needle, and push it up as high
as it will go. Before taking
Wrench off, hold Needle again
firmly between thumb and finger,
Fig. B.-The Wrench to prevent its slipping down; then
place Wrench on Nut (e Fig. 7), and turn it to right
until Needle is firmly held in its place.
Keep the Needle sharp. A dull Needle cannot do
good work, and is liable to become bent in going
through the cloth. Sharpen on a fine oil-stone. Never
use a bent Needle.
To Take Out the Needle.
Let Presser Foot down, and raise Needle Bar to its
highest point.Unscrew Needle Bar Nut with Needle
Wrench, taking a half turn to the left.
To Tighten the Belt.
Should Belt become loose after use, and you wish to
tighten it, unscrew one end of Belt from brass ferrule,
and shorten it by cutting off from one-quarter to one-
half inch; then place end of Belt on bare floor, or on
any smooth hard surface where you can gently roll it
under your foot, so as to compress the end which en-
ters ferrule, and screw together as below.
To Apply the Belt.
Pass one end between the Pitman and Large Wheel,
then pass both ends up through slot in Table.Hold
end of Belt (having the ferrule) in left hand; take the
other end of Belt between thumb and finger of right
hand, and turn it towards you sir full turns-this will
put a twist, or "kink" in Belt. Then push end of Belt
hard into ferrule, screwing it in as far as you can by
turning it from you—-which will take twist out of BeitView original page 13Page 14 · Read text
I2 WILLCOX & GIBBS SEWING MACHINE CO.
To Thread the Machine.
Machines are always sent from our offices properly
threaded; therefore, observe Machine carefully wher
you receive it. The direction of thread is shown by
the darts in Fig. 9.
2
Pig. 9- Shows the Manner of Threading the Machine.
When threading, first pull out Spool Pin, and place
spool upon it, noticing that spool revolves freely around
Pin. Replace Spool Pin. Raise Needle Bar to high-
est point by turning Small Wheel, and then proceed as
follows:
*I. Thread from back toward you, through the two
staples and hole in Arm known as Pull-off (1, Fig. 9).
2. Then carry thread between spool and Automatic
Tension, being careful to draw thread between the
washers under cap of Automatic Tension (2, Fig. 9).
end of thread it can be more really
passed through Pull-off and tolen places, die in ee mgView original page 14Page 15 · Read text
THE AUTOMATIC 13
3. Thread from right to left through Thread Pin
on top of Frame (3, Fig. 9).
4. From right to left through Wire Staple (4,
Fig. 9).
NOTE.-Do not thread through loop of Spring under this Staple,
unless embroidering
Take thread between thumb and finger of both
hands, passing it between Needle Bar and Take-up,
and press it from you into opening at top of Take-up
(5, Fig. 9).
Downwards through Thread Pin (6, Fig. 9).
7. Through Needle Eye from left to right (Fig. 9).
To Regulate Length of Stitch to Size of
Thread or Silk Used.
OVE ORL
22
STITCHES
TO AN
INGH
OOON-NUOWLA NEEDLE ON NUNNOTI STITCH
HANDLE OF STITCH-REGULATOR
Fig. 10-" Table" Stamped on Cloth Plate.
From Fig. 10 it will be seen that there is stamped
upon Cloth Plate of the Machine a• "Table" showing
proper size of Needle and length of stitch for each sizeView original page 15Page 16 · Read text
14 WILLCOX & GIBBS SEWING MACHINE CO.
of cotton or silk. For example: For 80 thread or
0 silk, use a No. 2 Needle, and 22 stitches to an inch.
To left of this "Table" is a slot, surrounded by a
shield inscribed "Stitches to an inch." To obtain
length of stitch required, move handle of Stitch Regu-
lator until proper number appears through slot. The
length of stitch indicated by the "Table" should always
be used, as the proper elasticity will then be secured in
all seams. A strict adherence to the "Table" will
always ensure good and durable work.
Selecting Thread or Silk.
When selecting thread or silk for machine sewing,
the operator should bear in mind that generally three
or four sices finer than that used in hand sewing is
strong enough, and best adapted to the work. For in-
stance, where 6o cotton would be used in hand sewing,
use 8o cotton on the Machine. By using 80 or 9o cot-
ton on muslin you will have a seam as strong as the
fabric, and a chain so small on under side of garment
as to make it almost impossible to detect it after laun-
dering. This rule also applies to finer materials.
The following rules on this subject will be found
useful:
For bleached muslin,
shirting, &c., use
{From 8o to 100 white cotton. § From 70 to 100 black cotton.
Dress Making ..... 170 only in colors, 0 or A silk.
For tucking cotton From 100 to 200 cotton.
or silk....
For light woolen clothing,.2000,flannels,00 silk.&e. •70 to 90
For heavy woolen clothing. 6o to 80
For fine liuens... 100 to 150
For fine lawns, Nainsooks, &c 120 to 200View original page 16Page 17 · Read text
THE AUTOMATIC.
For embroidering* ...E or F silk
For hemming silk or wool goods... ... 000 silk
For braiding......: .8o cotton or 0 silk
"Glace" is the strongest and most even spool cotton,
and while any good cotton can be used, "Glacé"
invariably gives the best results.
When colored cottons are required, use only Brook's,
and in the case of black select one number coarser than
called for in above rules. Colored cotton can be had
only in number 70.
Size Needle to be Used.
The "Table" stamped upon Cloth Plate (Fig. 10)
shows by number the proper size of Needle to be used
with each size thread or silk
The number is stamped on shank of each Needle.
CAUTION.— Every Needle made by us is stamped on
shank, [w. & G. and PAT. wAR. 18, 100 All others are
worthless imitations and invariably give trouble, as well
as injure the Machine. Imitations or bent needles
will cause loose stitches and breaking of thread.
The Automatic Tension.
This important feature of the Willcox & Gibbs
Automatic Sewing Machine calls for few words of
explanation, as it is entirely self-acting, requiring no
attention or skill on the part of operator, no matter
what nature the fabric may be, or what size thread or
silk is required
No adjustment of the Automatic Tension being re-
(See hen treatin for eat a)y, thread through Embroidery Spring.View original page 17Page 18 · Read text
16 WILLCOX & GIBBS SEWING MACHINE CO.
quired for any size thread of silk, or any kind or thick-
ness of work, it only remains for operator to select
thread or silk, and to regulate the stitch, by following
the directions on page 14 and the "Table" stamped on
Cloth Plate (Fig. 10). The operator can then be
certain that Machine will start immediately and do
perfect work.
The Automatic Tension is not at all liable to get
out of order, but will remain perfectly adjusted and
self-adjusting, if not meddled with.
We repeat the caution: Do not Oil the Automatic
Tension.
To Place the Work and Begin Sewing.
Raise Needle to its highest point, also Presser Foot.
Place work under point of Needle, Have two or three
inches of thread drawn through the eye of Needle.*
Pass thread under Presser Foot, towards the left.
Let down Presser Foot, the thread being held fast be-
tween Presser Foot and cloth.
The thread may be held lightly under the finger, in-
stead of being passed under Presser Foot, in which
case, hold it until two stitches are made. If held too
tightly, the thread will break at the first stitch.
Crossing Seams. •
The Automatic Sewing Machine will give no trouble
in passing over any ordinary seam. Very heavy seams
may need a little assistance.
•Unless the Needle Bar is at its highest point,the thread is held by
the Automatic Tension, and cannot be drawn through.View original page 18Page 19 · Read text
THE AUTOMATIC. 17
To Fasten Seam and to Take
the Work Out.
To Fasten End of Seam.—Sew off end of seam
two stitches; more than this may leave seam unlocked.
Stop with Needle at its highest point. With left
hand, catch thread between Needle and Thread Pin
(6, Fig. 9), and pull some slack through the Automatic
Tension.* With right hand, draw the slack through
the eye of Needle, and, grasping thread firmly, cut
the thread close to the goods. Lift Presser Foot
and then pull the goods from you, and end of thread
will be drawn through the loop. Next, pull end of
thread, which will tighten the knot and fasten off the
seam.If you cannot pull any slack thread from the
spool, it is because the Needle Bar is not at its highest
point.
To Fasten Seam in the Goods.—Stop the Needle in
the goods, place the fingers on the goods close to
Presser Foot to prevent goods from moving, raise
Presser Foot, and take one more stitch in last hole
made. Then break off thread, take out goods and
fasten off as directed in preceding paragraph.
To Fasten Seam to be Trimmed or Cut.-Seams
that you wish to trim from the finishing end should be
fastened by sewing back in the same row of stitching,
a little beyond the point of trimming. If it is neces-
cary to trim the finishing end of a seam that has not
been fastened as above, immediately after cutting,
lock the seam by inserting a pin through loop on the
under side of goods, pulling end of thread through and
drawing it backward upon the seam.
Unless the Needle Bar is at its highest point, the thread is held b
he Automatic Tension, and cannot be drawn throughView original page 19Page 20 · Read text
18 WILLCOX & GIBBS SEWING MACHINE CO.
To Take Out Seam.
It is one of the decided advantages of the Automatic
Sewing Machine, that, if required, its work can be
taken to pieces, without injuring the goods, by simply
unlocking the seam at any point, and drawing out
the thread.
The seam can be only taken out in one direction, viz.:
towards the point of starting. It is therefore a good
plan to begin all seams from the end most exposed
To Turn a Corner.
Stop with Needle raised to its highest point; raise
Presser Foot and turn the work. As the thread acts
as a pivot the work will become displaced from the
position where the Needle was withdrawn; therefore,readjust the work so that the Needle will enter it at
proper distance from last stitch, let Presser Foot
down, and proceed.
Difficulties of Beginners.
As in all things "Practice makes perfect," so in the
operation of the Willcox & Gibbs Automatic Sewing
Machine, all the varied kinds of work which can be
done on it will be accomplished with ease and in per-
fection as you daily grow more accustomed to its use
while closely following this book of instructions. When
in trouble arising from inexperience or failure to ob-
serve these directions, the following important features
should be specially observed:
"It will not feed." -STITCH REGULATOR not
set according to "Table" on CLOTH PLATE (see
p. 13). Thread wound on LOOPER. Needle bent.
Threads or ravelings caught on PRESSER FOOT.
Cloth caught in HEMMER or other attachment.
Very heavy seams will not pass under PRESSERView original page 20Page 21 · Read text
THE AUTOMATIC. 19 FOOT without a little assistance. (See "Crossing Seams" page 16). "It ravels when I take the work out." -Stop Machine with Needle at its highest point and before it runs off the cloth more than two stitches.Never turn Machine backward to raise Needle. This precaution will leave last stitch always locked. (See page 17). "It drops stitches." —Needle is bent, or not right size for thread according to "Table" (See page 13) ; or you are using soft finished cotton (See page 15). "The thread breaks." -Machine is not threaded up right (See page 12). You did not start according to instructions (See page 16). You are sewing goods too hard for Needle to penetrate without soaping, or you are using wrong sized Needle for the thread (See page 15) ; black or colored soft finished cotton (See page 15) ; or the thread is caught on spool or wound around SPOOL PIN; or Automatic Tension does not hold the thread (See "Tension does not work," page 20). "The Looper winds up." —Caused either by not holding on to end of thread in starting, or by not put- ting threadunder PRESSER FOOT. (Seepage 16) ; or leaving PRESSER FOOT up; or stitch not right by "Table" (See page I3). When this difficulty occurs pull down the Cap and clear thread from LOOPER, being careful not to scratch LOOPER "It runs hard." -Machine or Stand needs oiling, or you have been using poor oil that gums. (See pages 7 and 8.) Thread or ravelings are wound in between SMALL WHEEL and CONNECTION ROD-this can occur only with our earlier AUTOMATIC and B-Machines.All our latest AUTOMATIC Sewing Machines have been so improved that this difficulty is entirely removed.View original page 21
From the ISMACS International. Original publisher and archive notices are retained.
Check the model and edition against your equipment.
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