Sewing machines
Seidel & Naumann Models 8 & 9 Bobbin Shuttle — User manual
User manual for Seidel & Naumann Models 8 & 9 Bobbin Shuttle. 17 pages in English. Read the original PDF, download or print a copy without registration.
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- Brand
- Seidel & Naumann
- Model / document
- Seidel & Naumann Models 8 & 9 Bobbin Shuttle
- Document type
- User manual
- Language
- English
- Pages
- 17
- File size
- 5.5 MB
- Category
- Sewing machines
- Document date
- Not specified in catalog
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Page 1 · Read text
Every Naumann sewing machine
must have the name on the
front of the arm,
while the registered trademark
must be statedon the
foundation plate.
The machine comes with a
K' [} 8/ 9 factory certificate.
Bobbin Shuttle
. Sewing Machine
CN
User Manual Nv 4008 Holl. ty pt Pg.View original page 1Page 3 · Read text
1. General Information
Read these instructions carefully, making every movement on
the sewing machine. Never use force. Use only the
recommended sewing machine oil for lubrication. To obtain
good results, use the needles specified for this machine (see
Section 10 The Needle).
If the machine should fail due to the passage of time or due
to improper handling, one should not call in one or the other
mechanic, but go to our representative where the machine
was purchased. He knows it best and has an interest in
keeping it in good order.
Shuttles, bobbins and other parts must always be purchased
from our representative.
2. The Drive Belt
Once the packaging of the machine is removed, place the belt
in the belt slot of the flywheel and insert it through the holes
of the table top around the axis of the undercarriage
flywheel, then hook it together and rotate the wheel one or
more time.
This is where the drive belt comes to rest on the drive wheel.
The belt should not be too tight or the machine will run with
difficulty. If, over time, the belt becomes somewhat loose, it
should be made proportionately tighter.
Page 3View original page 3Page 4 · Read text
3. Disengage/Engage the Motion Clutch
If the knob "a"(Figure 1) is turned in the direction of the Oiled through holes 1, 2, 3 (Figure 1a). The number and
arrow 1 (hold the drive wheel), the motion clutch is location of oil holes vary between different models of hand
disengaged. If the knob "a" is turned in the direction of the cranks.
arrow 2 (hold the drive wheel), the motion clutch is engaged.
4. Treadle Practice
Figure 1 Disengage/Engage the Motion Clutch
3a. The Hand Crank Figure 2 Treadle Practice
The hand crank is only supplied with hand or treadle Remove both upper and lower thread, and raise the presser
machines on special order. It is attached behind the arm of foot lever “b.” (Figure 2). Disengage the motion clutch.
the sewing machine and is connected to the machine by a
pawl "a" (Figure 1) which engages in the spokes of the wheel. The handwheel must never run in the wrong direction. Start
By pressing a finger on "a," from the inside out, the the handwheel in the right direction with one’s hand.
connection with the wheel can be broken again. The wheel Place one’s feet in a comfortable position on the treadle foot
must be turned in the direction of the arrow. The crank 5
rest, and start practicing pedaling until one gets the feel of it.
(Figure 1a) is held by spring-loaded pin 4 and is released by
pulling back pin 4 and can then be placed around the wheel, Rethread the upper thread path, reinsert the shuttle, and re-
as otherwise the cover would not go over the upper part of engage the motion clutch. Place a scrap of fabric under it
the machine. (some scrap, not actual sewing) and lower the presser foot
lever again.
Now begin to pedal and practice this until one has mastered
sewing. It is wrong to pull on the fabric, as this can bend the
needle. The machine should never be started with the presser
foot down without fabric underneath.
One should pay attention to the noise the machine makes
when it is running. The size of the kick should not
dominate.The tone of the machine should be a regular
whirring tone.
Figure 1a The Hand Crank
Page 5Page 4View original page 4Page 5 · Read text
5. Removing the Shuttle 6. Winding a Bobbin
The sliding plate "c" (Figure 3) is opened by turning the The thread runs from the spool of thread through the rear
handwheel and the shuttle is brought into the forward guide hole 1 (Figure 5) between the two tension discs 2
position to see exactly the places and how the thread has through the slot in hole 3 of the lever, of the thread guide 4
been inserted. and is then inserted into the hole of the copper disk of the
coil from the inside out. Now the spring bolt 5 is pulled back
This will be useful in the following exercises.
slightly and the disc with holes is placed in the thread winder
Then one presses on the spring (d), which ejects the shuttle 6 in such a way that it engages in one of the holes of its disc
(Figure 3), and take out the shuttle. The bobbin will fall out of and the thread is gripped thereby at the same time. Now one
the shuttle by itself. starts pedaling, after releasing the mechanism and pressing
lever 7 from below. The thread is now evenly rolled onto the
bobbin. When the bobbin is full, the thread winder will jump
out of the drive wheel by itself.
Figure 3 Removing the Shuttle
Figure 5 Winding a Bobbin
Figure 4 Inserting Shuttle in Shuttle Holder Tray
Care must be taken: after the shuttle has been placed in the
shuttle holder tray, both slides of the shuttle compartment
must be closed before the machine is set in motion.
Otherwise, the shuttle may jump out and render the work
useless. (Figure 4).
Page 7
Page 6View original page 5Page 6 · Read text
7. Inserting a New Bobbin 8. Loading the Shuttle
Hold the shuttle with the left hand, with the point turned Please make sure that the shuttle holder tray is fully forward,
towards oneself [Figure 6] and insert the bobbin in such a place the shuttle in it and close the slide c. (Fig. 9)
way that the thread can be unwound from top to the right so
the blunt part of the bobbin comes out.
Hold the bobbin and the shuttle and guide the thread up to
the end of the slot (Figure 7), then again vertically until the
thread has slipped under the pointed part of the tension
spring and check the tension of the shuttle by pulling the
thread (Figure 8).
Figure 9 Close the Slide
9. The Presser Foot
Figure 6 Figure 7 If one is sewing thin fabrics, it will be effective if one turns
screw "K" (Figure 10) back slightly (turn it counterclockwise)
to reduce the pressure on the fabric.
10. The Needle
To insert a new needle, raise the needle bar to its highest
point and insert the needle, (flat side to the right) until she
strikes from above. Then the screw of the needle holder is
tightened.
Figure 8
Page 8 Page 9View original page 6Page 7 · Read text
Only type No. 705 needles are used.
__________________________________________________
Type Cotton Yarn
No. 705 No.
Batist, netting, tulle No. 7 100 - 150
Very fine linen, fine
Calico, fine silk fabrics No. 8 80 - 100
Linen, silk fabrics No. 9 60 - 80
Chunky linen, heavy
fabrics No. 10 50 - 60
Fine woolen fabrics,
Leather stitching No. 11 30 - 50
Woolen fabrics, Sheets No. 12 20 - 30
11. The Stitch Plate
The regular stitch plate should be exchanged with the small
hole stitch plate, which is provided when sewing with a thin
needle and thin thread.
When inserting the stitch plate, make sure that the needle is
positioned exactly in the center of the hole in the plate.
Figure 10
12. Threading the Upper Thread
13. Raising the Lower Thread
The upper thread runs from the thread spool 1 (Figure 10)
through the thread eye 2 (hook in) between the two tension The upper thread is held in the left hand, the gear wheel is
discs 3 (insert in) through the spring 4 (hook in) through the turned and turned (towards oneself) and the thread is
hole in the lever 5 through the hole 6 in the front plate (hook tightened slightly, causing the lower thread is raised. Now put
in from behind) through the hole of needle holder 7 (place in both thread ends to the back and hold them in one’s hand
front) and is inserted from left to right through the eye of the until the first stitches have been sewn.
needle. The thread should hang about 10 cm from the hole.
Page 11
Page 10View original page 7Page 8 · Read text
If there are loops on the underside (Figure 13), the tension of
the upper thread is too weak.
14. Sewing
Place a piece of fabric underneath for a trial sewing and begin
to sew. Do not pull or slide the work with one’s hands, Figure 13 Upper Thread Tension Too Weak
otherwise the needle could easily break.
Which of both is the case can easily be determined by
15. Thread Tension
checking the tension of the threads by hand (that of the
upper thread with the presser foot loosened).
Look closely at the sewn seam. It should be the same as
Figure 11, i.e. the threads should join each other in the
16. Upper Thread Tension Adjustment
middle of the fabric. A stitch is perfect if it looks the same
from both sides.
If it is too strong, the nut "g" must be turned in direction 1
(Figure 2) according to arrow.
Figure 11 A Perfect Stitch 17. Lower Thread Tension Adjustment
The tension of the upper thread is then equal to the tension If the tension spring is too strong, the screw of the tension
of the lower thread. spring is turned out slightly by means of the screwdriver that
is provided, but not so far that it protrudes outwards,
otherwise the thread will get stuck on it and can break. If it is
The machines are always regulated before they are delivered. too weak, one must loosen the tension spring screw slightly.
Figure 12 Upper Thread Tension Too Strong
If there are clear loops at the top (Figure 12), then the
tension of the upper thread is too strong or the tension of the
lower thread too slight.
Figure 14 Loosening Tension Spring
Page 12 Page 13View original page 8Page 9 · Read text
18. Stitch Length Mechanism 20. Skipped stitches
The stitch length mechanism (Figure 15) allows for precise The cause can be:
control of the stitch length.
a) that the machine has been twisted due to improper
handling,
b) the needle is bent, too low, or misplaced,
c) the thread is too thick, the needle is too fine.
21. An Uneven Seam
occurs when:
a) the bobbin is wrong and set, so that the thread is pulled
away in the wrong direction,
Figure 15 Stitch Length Mechanism b) the top and bobbin threads are not precisely controlled by
the tensions (see Article 15 Side 12-13),
If the knob screw "i" is set to 0 -- the fabric will not be fed at
all, if one presses it down, the stitches will become longer and c) Fabric, thread and needle do not match, so needle or
longer. thread is too thick or too thin,
d) the bobbin is not evenly wound.
If one wants to sew backwards with the same length of stitch,
then screw in the screw "i" until it stops and it is knocked
22. Machine Maintenanceupwards over the zero point.
The machine must always be kept clean and well oiled. 19. The Thread
The thread can break, when:
a) the stitch plate hole is rough or the needle is bent,
b) if the thread tension is too great,
c) the thread is too thick or not evenly thick or the needle is
too fine,
d) the slide tension screw has been unscrewed too far,
e) if instead of the large-hole needle plate, the small-hole
plate is taken using thick needles and thick thread.
f) if the wrong type of needle is used,
Figure 16
g) the needle is not seated properly.
The places that need lubrication are indicated by a dot and a
line (Figure 16).
Page 14 Page 15View original page 9Page 10 · Read text
To oil them, only the finest sewing machine oil should be 23. Accessories
used. All other types harden in the machine and make them
unusable.
With every shuttle sewing machine one will receive:
1. 10 needles in different thicknesses, including one in the
machine.
2. 6 bobbins in a box, one of which is in the shuttle.
3. 1 regular presser foot on the machine.
4. 1 seam guide with screw.
5. 1 narrow hemmer and a wide hemmer.
Figure 17 6. 1 ruffler.
The parts to be oiled, [Figure 17]. 7. 1 adjustable hemmer.
8. 1 Quilter and 1 Quilt Button.
The places where lubrication is required are indicated by a 9. 1 braider.
point and a line, are indicated in figures 16 and 17. The
10. 1 spring to regulate the thread.machine must be oiled continuously at points 1 - 6. (Figure
18) Point 6 is opposite the footboard. 11. 1 slide to arrange the stitches.
12. 2 screwdrivers and 1 screwdriver for the shuttle.
13. 1 oil can.
14. 1 bottle of oil.
15. 1 user manual.
16. 1 box for the tools.
Other devices are supplied at extra cost on request.
Figure 18.
If the machine has not been used for a long time, all parts
should be particularly well cleaned with petroleum. This work
is done in this way until all residues of dirt have been
dissolved by the petroleum, after which everything is wiped
clean. Then one can oil again with sewing machine oil.
Page 17
Page 16View original page 10Page 11 · Read text
Then one takes the fabric, pulls it in the seamer as the picture
shows, and carefully begins to sew.
The fabric should be guided in this way during sewing. That
24. Attachments for the Sewing Machine
the hemmer is completely filled and the seam in the cove is
turned sufficiently. But there should never be too much walk
in. This happens very easily when the fabric in front of the
The Sewing Machine hemmer's cove is pressed in too much by hand. By training
one will soon learn the right way.
To sew over, place two pieces of fabric on top of each other,
but leave the edge of the piece underneath to protrude about
4 mm. The protruding side alone must match the hemmer.
Walk through the sewing machine. In this way the two pieces
are sewn together.
Figure 18b The Foot for Wide Hems
The Wide Hemmer
It is used for hemming very thick fabrics or two fabrics at
once. The use is exactly as described above. Also beautiful
Figure 18a The Foot for Narrow Hems
seams can be achieved with the broad seamer, as described
Then the fabric is laid out, the seam is smoothed and the lace above with the sewer.
that is now formed is passed one more time through the
sewing machine to sew it flat.
The Adjustable Hemmer
The Hemmer for Narrow Hems
The adjustable hemmer is closed when the ruler is tightened
with the thumb screw, and is used for sewing particularly
After the hemmer has been screwed on in place of the wide or thick seams. One proceeds exactly in the same way as
normal presser foot, bring the beginning of the fabric to be with the narrow seamer, by bringing the bent beginning of
hemmed and which has been turned 1 mm wide with a the fabric into the cove under the needle and making sure
pointy object as far as it will go towards the cove of the that there is always enough fabric in the seamer, so that the
hemmer, to the needle edge turns twice.
Page 18 Page 19View original page 11Page 12 · Read text
Figure 18d The Sliding Braider
Figure 18c The Adjustable Hemmer
The Seam Guide
To use this hemmer for hemming of different widths, loosen
the screw in the groove. The plate and division can then be
moved. The narrowest hem is obtained when the pointer is When a seam has to be made that must run parallel to one
set to 0; the higher the number one takes, the wider the side, the seam guide is screwed onto the plate with the
seam becomes. The loosened screw must be retightened appropriate thumb screw, which fits into the hole to the right
before sewing. of the stitch plate.
The Sliding Braider
The braid is wound smoothly on a bobbin, put it on top of the
pin and the braid through the eyelet for thread to presser
foot. This has, as shown, an oblique opening through which
the braid is pulled downwards, so that it lies just under the
needle during sewing. With some practice one will quickly
become familiar with the use, as with the other feet.
Figure 18e The Seam Guide
Depending on the desired distance from the side of the
fabric, the fabric, put the straight side of the ruler less or
more away from the needle.
The ruler is also useful for sewing pleats and folds or for
sewing one seam next to another in the same direction or in a
straight direction. This saves time-consuming drawing lines.
Page 20 Page 21View original page 12Page 13 · Read text
The Binder The Ruffler
The ribbon trimmer is used to trim clothes and laundry. With the help of this simple tool one can catch up on the
bottom one of two fabrics placed on top of each other, while
the top one remains smooth. The fabric to be drawn up is
placed under the ruffler on the fabric slider and that which is
to remain smooth, scrub in the slide of the inhaler. The fabric
slider only reacts to the bottom fabric, leaving the other
behind. The bottom fabric will then lie in small pleats. The
larger the stitch is made, the larger the pleats become. One
gets dense folds when one puts on the outer fabric. For large
tailoring companies and for the manufacture of laundry it is
recommended to purchase the self-inhaler and the self-
folder, which can be ordered from the seller of the machine
or from the factory.
Figure 18f The Binder
Pinning on the tape is saved. The band is placed between the
two hooks (holders) in such a way that it moves loosely
between them and the borders are made in this position (like
the ruler) with the screw on the plate. The fabric is now
placed under the presser foot, between the two hooks that
already hold the band, so that it lies around the fabric and
can thus be sewn.
Figure 18g The Ruffler
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The Quilter 25. Notes on Darning and Embroidering
This is important when sewing quilted pieces. With the help Preparation of the Machine
of these, one can sew rows and squares of equal width,
without the need to be drawn in advance. The quilter, a bent
piece of metal, is passed simultaneously through the lateral At the highest position of the needle, the presser foot with
holes in the quilting bracket and into the conveyor rod, as the screw is removed. Then the conveyor rod is lowered so as
shown in the drawing, and fastened to the conveyor rod with not to preclude the tension of the upper thread. In order to
the screw in the back of the bracket. It can be set wide or be able to manually control the movement of the embroidery
narrow. frame when embroidering and darning and thus change the
length and direction of the stitches as necessary, the needle
plate is exchanged for the embroidery stitch plate (see Fig.
19).
Thread and Needle
When darning, use good machine darning thread No. 50 or
no. 60.
Figure 18h The Quilter
First make a straight seam, which has been drawn, then slide
the fabric as far to the right of the seam as the rows should
be apart, and then fasten the quilt so that the bottom part
just falls on the first seam. When sewing further, one should
make sure that the seam in question is guided exactly along
the quilter. The same is done with the following seams and
square.
Figure 19 The Darner
For embroidering, the best machine silk or colorfast
embroidery thread is used for the upper thread, while for the
bobbin thread also machine thread No. 50 or no. 60 takes.
The gauge of the needle should be in proportion to the
thread, about No. 7 or no. 8.
Page 24 Page 25View original page 14Page 15 · Read text
Embroidery Frame
The fabric that one wants to darn or embroider is stretched in
an embroidery frame and then it is smoothed out. If the
window does not close properly, one can make do by moving
the outer frame, by means of a screw or by wrapping the
inner frame with fabric.
Figure 20 The Embroidery Frame
The Darning
The darning also serves as a preliminary exercise for
Figure 21 Darning
embroidering. The lower thread is pulled upwards and
both ends of the threads are held by hand until the first Thus, by sliding the window forwards and backwards, one
stitches are done. The needle is inserted about 1/2 cm in lays seam after seam in the same weaving threads (Figure
front of the hole and now with quick pedaling and slow, 21), until the whole hole is evenly covered. Now one turns
regular sliding of the window (Figure 20), short stitches are the window a quarter of a turn, and stops in the same way
sewn across the hole, also 1/2 inch past the hole. across it until the hole is completely covered. If the hole is
very large, the hole can be tightened, which is darned on both
sides and then darned across the hole across the darning
cotton.
Page 27
Page 26View original page 15Page 16 · Read text
Floral Embroidery Open Hem Embroidery (Fig. 25)
If one has obtained some sureness by darning, then then one
can begin embroidering simple easy patterns.
Figure 25 Open Hem Embroidery
One can make this by machine not only faster, but also muchFigure 22 Leaf Embroidery Figure 23 Leaf Emb.
finer than by hand. After the necessary threads have been
drawn out, at the simple open seam the threads that remain
are tied together at the edge by means of cross-stitching. The
The pre-drawn outline must be exactly followed, the threads
order of the stitches is shown by the arrows on 25. If the
direction and position are treated exactly as with the hand
threads are gathered in the middle, one goes ahead with a
embroidery.
normal stitch and gather the necessary number of threads
with grappling stitches. If one wants to create a special
embellishment, one can draw another wave-shaped sewing
stitch through the open seam when it's finished.
Figure 24 Flower Embroidery
The bobbin thread should always be fine, (yarn No. 100 to
150).
Page 28
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Cut Fabric Embroidery Monogram Embroidery
The fabric is first sewn with small stitches and then cut out The pre-drawn letters are first worked with long stitches, as
according to the pattern. Then begin the lace stitch and draw appropriate, and then
the longitudinal seams in equal distances over the cut fabric,
embroidered over with even, closely spaced cross stitches.
moving the steps and the fabric back at the same time, after
which the longitudinal seams are crossed with transverse
seams.
Each transverse thread must be connected to the longitudinal
thread by crossing over.
Obtain small, round buttons. One lets these places go around
the needle several times. After finishing the pattern, make a
thin cord around the cut places and embroider over that
cord. In this work one should use embroidery silk of the same
color and then tighten the tension of both threads a little
more than with normal embroidery.
Figure 28 Monogram Embroidery
One can also use ordinary thread as bobbin thread for
embroidering letters.
Prick Patterns
Figure 26 Cut Fabric Embroidery
Finally, the machine can also be used for pricking patterns as
a direct substitute for a special machine and even the most
difficult drawings can be pierced. For this, however, a special
needle without an eye must be used, which can be obtained
from the dealer or the manufacturer.
Figure 27 Cut Fabric Embroidery
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