Sewing machines
Standard Rotary (1915) — User manual
User manual for Standard Rotary (1915). 16 pages in English. Read the original PDF, download or print a copy without registration.
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- Brand
- Standard
- Model / document
- Standard Rotary (1915)
- Document type
- User manual
- Language
- English
- Pages
- 16
- File size
- 3.8 MB
- Category
- Sewing machines
- Document date
- Published 1915
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Page 1 · Read text
INSTRUCTIONS
FOR USING THE
"STANDARD"
RotaryShuttle
Sewing Machine
Lock and ChaiN Stich am Anachmens
The
Standard Sewing Machine Co.
CLEVELAND, OHIO
U. s.View original page 1Page 2 · Read text
INDEX
Page INTRODUCTORY. General Instructions 1.2
Belting
Bobbin. to wind The "Rotary" machine, with which this
Bobbin, to take out. Instruction Book goes, is the most perfect machine that
Bobbin case. to thread. was ever made, and most complete in all its accessories and
attachments. It should be thoroughly understood by tho Bobbin case and bobbin in position sew 55
Binding 16 isoperatorcapableinoforderproducing.to get fromTo knowit allwhattheitadvantageswill do andthathowit
Embroidering 22 it will do it, you must carefully study the instructions con-
Etching. tained in this book. By so doing you will find constant
Feed, to raise or lower delight and surprise at the variety of work that ean bo 239
French Folds 16 accomplished, and at the simplieity and perfection of the
Hemming 12-13-14 machineappliancesis awhichmine produceof delightfulsuch wonderfulsurprises,results.full of richnessThis for
Hemstitching those who dig for it, and a revelation to all who strive to
Needle. to set do the Ligher class of work it is capable of producing.
Needle, Size to use IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS.
Oiling machine 24673 This machine has been carefully constructed
Oil, kind to use. thoroughly tested at the factory.
If you have occasion to write about your machine, alwaysPresser Foot 259
give serial number of head on stitch regulating plate. Puffing 21 Allow no adjuster, who is not an established agent of this
Quilting 15 company, to repair or touch this machine. Competing agents
Ruffling ..18-19-20 are often unscrupulous enough to put the machine out of
Sewing, to begin order in an attempt to sell a new one.
Stitch, Lock ... See that your needle is the proper length and straight.
Stitch, to regulate Skipping stitches and crooked sewing is often the result of
Stitch, Lock and Chain 10-11 either.point ofThetheneedleshuttle,eye shouldand justbe asbelowcloseit aswhenpossiblethe loopto theis
Shirring 21 formed. Buy needles only of "Rotary" agents or send to
Shuttle, in position for sewing the factory. When ordering, give the serial number of
Shuttle, to take out your machine.
Treadle Motion Do not run the machine when the presser foot is down
Threading Machine without cloth between it and the feed. It tangles the thread,
Thread to use. roughens the foot and dulls the feed points.
Do not pull the cloth along when stitching. This is liable
Thread Cutter to pull the point of the needle onto the needle plate and
Tensions, to regulate either break the needle or roughen the needle plate. A rough
Tucking needle plate or needle plate hole may eause trouble and
Underbraiding breaking of thread. The feed will move the goods along
properly. When to take out the workView original page 2Page 3 · Read text
To tarn a sharp corner, lower the needle through the
cloth; then raise the presser foot and turn the work, using
the needle as a pivot.
"Rotary" machines will never break thread nor make
a poor stitch when the right needle is used and the ma-
chine is properly operated. If the upper thread breaks it
is usually due to a knot in the thread, but might be
caused by a rough needle plate hole; improper threading;
too tight an upper tension; the needle being set incor-
rectly; too small a needle for the thread.The lower
thread might break from too full a bobbin; from the bob-
bin being wound unevenly; from too tight a lower tension;
or from the thread having slipped over the bobbin in the
shuttle.
Puckering of goods is caused by too much tension TO OIL.
above and below; or by too much or too little pressure Oil all moving bearings frequently. These are marked
on the presser foot. "Oil" in euts 1, 2, 6 and 7. Also remove face plate by
A Rotary Shuttle machine requires different handling unscrewing thumb serew P, Fig. 7, and oil needle bar con-
from an old style vibrator.The shuttle movement is differ. nection at both ends, needle bar bearing and take-up cam
groove. ent. (By revolving in a closed race the shuttle movement
is reduced from S inches (4 inches each way) per stitch on Put one drop between shuttle and race, as shown in
a vibrator to a round and round movement on our Rotary, Fig. 6, below E, every time machine is used.Use a good
the long wearing tiring travel, the two stops and two starts grade of oil and only a little at a time.
of shuttle to each stitch being done away with. To gain the
full benefit of these wonderful resuits, all foreign substances
must be kept out of the shuttle race and that kept well oiled.)
Never run your machine with needle threaded and without
goods under presser foot. Always draw up the under thread
through hole in needle plate before starting to sew. Always
raise take-up to its highest point before attempting to remove
work. The Rotary closes its stitch with take-up at highest
point, and needle bar descended part way toward the goods.
Unless take-up is at highest point, the upper thread is
around the shuttle, and taking out the work at this period
will draw the thread between shuttle and race and make
the machine stiek or bind. Watch the take-up, and pay no
attention to position of needle bar. In case any foreign PIG. 2,
substance gets between shuttle and race, and causes machine R Feed lift adjusting screw.
to run hard, which is only possible by improper handling, BELTING.
reverse the movement of machine. Run it backward several Drop head machines are belted and unbelted by lower.
revolutions, and the heel of shuttle will clean out the race. ing the head and throwing the belt on or off over the hand
Them a drop of oil in the race will be sufficient to allow free wheel. On box top machines the belt is thrown off from
and easy movement of mechanism forward in proper direc- the driving wheel; and rebelted by simply operating the
tion. treadle and letting the lug on the drive wheel catch the
belt which forces it back into the groove.
Preserve this Instruction Book.View original page 3Page 4 · Read text
THE TREADLE MOTION.
Before attempting to sew, the operator should learn to
tread the machine so that it will make an easy, uniform
motion, without jerking. To do this loosen nut H, Fig. 7, on
the right of hand wheel, by turning it towards you by hand.
This will disconnect the working parts of the machine so
that only the treadle, lower wheel, and upper pulley will run.
Place the feet squarely on the treadle. Turn the small wheel
away from you and press down on the heel and toe alter-
nately, until you can make an easy motion. When this is
accomplished, turn the nut on hand wheel from you until Fig.4. Fig. 5
Bobbin and Caseit is tight, when the whole machine will operate. Raise Shuttle
the presser foot and repeat the treading process, with the
hand wheel turning from you (which is the proper direction HOW TO THREAD BOBBIN CASE
for sewing) until you can stop and start the machine ensily The Bobbin Case is threaded as follows:
by the foot, and can make a smooth even motion.
When you have become expert in the above, put cloth Place the bobbin on the pin of the bobbin case, letter A,
under the presser foot, and without threading the machine, Fig. 5; draw the thread up through the slot B, and under
practice the treadle motion again until you have complete the tension spring C, which completes the threading. The
control of it, when you will be ready to sew. bobbin must be placed on the pin of the bobbin case so that
it will turn in the same direction the thread pulls out.
TO TAKE OUT THE BOBBIN AND CASE
Raise the take-up to its highest point (see Fig. 7) take Push the bobbin and ease into position in machine as
out the work and cut the threads; open shuttle cover. shown in Fig. 6, taking care to platt the projection P, Fig. 6,
This will enable you to get a view of the bobbin and case, into the recess of the bobbin case.
Fig. 6, reach under the table with left hand, take hold of
smallthe bobbinhingedcasebar.andonbobbinbobbinout casewith theat triedfinger.the fell
replacing case be sure that same is entirely in shuttle
before letting go of hinged bar 0.
TO WIND THE BOBBIN
Place the bobbin firmly on the spindle
of the bobbin winder with notched side
here bin bobbin novendererielley, and h:
loosen the upper belt wheel or pulley
by turning the thumb nut H half way
round. Push the Bobbin winder back
against the belt, and into the groove
of the pulley on the bobbin winder, and
it will automatically lock and be held
into place. Place the spool of thread
Fig. 6.
B.B' HeFigsochenthen throughthroughtensionstension bonis bedbed
of machine; wind the end of the thread Fig. 3
around the bobbin until it is fastened; Bobbin SHUTTLE, BOBBIN CASE AND BOBBIN IN then work the treadle, and the thread
should wind evenly and when bobbin is POSITION FOR SEWING
full enough, it will automatically stop
winding. Before beginning to sew, Letter B, Feed; C, needle plate; P, bobbin case guard;
tighten the thumb nut on the hand E, shuttle; O, bobbin case; D, shuttle race cap; A and F,
wheel as before. screws holding shuttle race cap and bobbin case guard.
5View original page 4Page 5 · Read text
NEEDLE AND THREAD.
TO SET THE NEEDLE. 1st. Select the thread to suit the goods, next select a
To take out the needle, raise the needle bar to its highest needle suited to the thread.Use as fine a needle as will per-
point, loosen the needle clamp serew, letter N, Fig. 7, on the mit the thread to pass freely through the eye.
right of the bar and pull down the needle. 2nd. To seeure the greatest strength of a seam both
To set the needle, hold it in the left hand, raise the threads should be alike. In stitching with silk for ornamental
needle bar to its highest point, loosen the needle clamp screw work only, and where strength is not required, it is eco-
enough to give room for the shank of the needle to pass up nomical to use cotton thread in the shuttle, which should be
into the hole in the bottom of the needle bar; push the needle of good quality.The machine does not require so large a
up, with its flat side to the right, as far as it will go, then thread as in hand sewing to give the same strength of seam.
tighten the screw. The following table will be found useful as a general
guide, which may be varied as experience and judgment
Never leave the screw loose nor the needle partly out of its
suggest.
socket. Size of Size of Size of
MATERIALS Cotton Needle
Heavy Woolen Clothing.............20 to• 36.. …………………….. No. 6
Dressmaking.....Woolen Clothing and Flannels.... .....4U...60 toto 80...O50..... .....or A...No.B... No: 45
Muslin or Linen................. .......90 to 110...0 or A... No. 3
Fine Linen Underclothing .. ...120 to 150.00 or 0... No.
Embroidery, Lawns, etc. .....200 to 500......000... No. 1
A needle plate with extra large needle hole can be pro-
cured when the machine is wanted for heavy work.
THE STITCH.
The lock stitch consists of two threads, one (the upper
thread) taken from the spool upon the upper arm and led
through the tension, take-up and guides to the needle; the
other (the lower thread) from the bobbin which lies in its
case in the shuttle; in stitching, the two threads are, locked
Fig. 7. together at each descent of the needle, and the threads drawn
A--Spool stand I_Bobbin winder tight by the take-up and tensions.
B_ Thread guide J-Shuttle cover TO BEGIN SEWING.
C_ _Tension K-Stitch regulator
D. Intermediate take-up M- Presser bar and needle Having threaded the machine and the bobbin case as
E_-Thread guide bar cap screws described, turn the hand wheel slowly from you with the
F-_Take-up N_-Needle clamp screw right hand, holding the end of the upper thread with the
G- Presser foot nut O Presser foot Jeft. When the needle descends, the shuttle will carry tho
H_-Loose pulley nut P_ Face plate thumb screw upper thread around the lower thread; the needle then
rising the lower thread can be drawn up through the hole
in the needle plate by the upper thread; lay both threads
TO THREAD THE MACHINE. back under the presser foot, place the material under the
Place the spool on the spool pin A, Fig. 7; draw the needle, lower the presser foot and you are ready to sew.
thread through the thread guide B; thence down to the right Guide the work with the left hand, starting the ma-
of and between the tension dises C, which will also bring chine with the right hand by turning the hand wheel from
you, keeping the work free so as not to urge or hold back the thread into position in the intermediate take-up spring
D; thence up through the take-up slot F, down through the on the feed.
thread guide E, to the needle, which thread from left to right.View original page 5Page 6 · Read text
TO REGULATE TENSIONS The thread can be cut off within two or three inches of
The beauty of the stitch depends largely upon the the needle and make the next stitch perfect if the take-up
thread being drawn evenly into the goods, so that it wili is at its highest point. Be careful not to break or bend
show alike on both sides of the work, and this depends the needle when taking out the work. Never take out
upon the tensions. If the threads used are of the proper the work, except when the take-up is at its highest point.
size for the material sewed, and both tensions are equally
tight, the threads will be drawn together and locked in THE PRESSER FOOT
the center of the goods, as in figure No. 1 The pressure of the foot is presumed to be right for
If the thread should be straight along the under side
of the goods, it is because the bobbin case tension is too ordinatharesing and seldom service shanties, burning.
tight, or because the upper tension is too lose, as in it to the right or downward for more pressure, or to the
figure No. 3. left or upward for less pressure; the pressure should be
If the thread should be straight along the upper side only heavy enough to prevent the goods rising with the
of the goods, it is because the upper tension is too tight needle and so that the feed moves the work along evenly;
or bobbin case tension is too loose, as in figure No. 2 a heavier pressure would cause the feed points to injure
Soft and thin goods require little tension, but on thick the material and the machine to run harder. The presser
and heavy goods the tension should be stronger, both foot must be set so that the needle passes midway between
above and below. the two prongs.If the foot is set a little to one side or
For sewing flannels and bias or other goods that are the other, it is likely to push the needle out of its proper
liable to stretch, the tensions should be light, so that the path, so that it will strike the needle plate or cut the
thread will be loose enough to stand the strain of stretch- upper thread. The presser foot is raised by the little
lifter at the back of the face plate, which is called the
in in the Rotary, the bobbin case tension should be some. presser bar lifter.
what lighter than that of ordinary shuttle machines and TO RAISE OR LOWER THE FEED
very seldom requires changing, it being self-adjusting to The feed is a positive, strong feed, and does not depend different sized threads. All changes usually required can upon springs for any of its four motions.It can, there-be made by regulating the upper tension; do this only fore, he relied on to carry the goods without assistancewhen the presser foot is down. by the operator. As it goes from the factory. the rise To tighten the upper tension, turn the thumb screw and fall is correct for all ordinary sewing, and it is bestC. Fig. 7, to the right; to loosen, turn to the left. not to meddle with it in any way. If, however, it is nec- Should it be necessary to increase the bobbin case essary to change its rise and fall. loosen the screw R. tension, tighten the screw in the bobbin case tension
spring E, Fig. 5, with the small screw driver turning to Fig.as desired.2, whenThenyou tightencan movethe screw,the feedbutpointsee firstup orthatdownthe right to decrease the tension, loosen the screw, by turn- feed surface is perfectly straight with the bed of theing to left. machine.
REGULAR & IRREGULAR STITCHING. TO TAKE OUT THE SHUTTLE
The shuttle should never be taken out except to clean.
When it is taken out for that purpose, clean the race
also
To take it out, raise the needle to highest point, then
remove the two screws, letters A and F that fasten the
ring that holds the shuttle in position, then remove
shuttle.(See Fig. 6.)
When the shuttle is put back into the race, see that
the driving pins are in a position that will bring the point
ofdrivingthe shuttlepins atintotheholestop whenon eachthe needleside ofisshuttle.down, fittingIf the
shuttle is put in so that the point is not at the top when
the needle is down, it will not catch the loop, and no
Fig. Nos. 1, 2, & 3. stitch will be formed.
TO REGULATE THE STITCH THREAD CUTTER.
To lengthen the stitch, loosen the thumb nut K.
Just above the thumb serew of the presser bar will be
Fig. 7, and push forward, then tighten the nut. To short-
en, pull toward you and tighten nut. seen a thin steel collar that surrounds the bar and flares
TO TAKE OUT THE WORK atwiththethetop.leftThishandisfromthe threadthe frontcutter.to theByrearpassingover thethe threadutter, Stop with the take-up, letter F, Fig. 7, at its highest
point; raise the presser foot to highest point, which re- and pressing down into the flange of the cutter the thread
leases the tension, and draw the work out to the left. will be cut and the end fastened.9View original page 6Page 7 · Read text
To remove chain stitch spider, reverse the operation.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING CHAIN STITCH ATTACHMENT Chain stitch machine should NEVER be used with a
C LONG stitch. Set stitch indicator at No. 5; finer thread
and needle can be used than when making lock stitch,
except when embroidering.
Crossing Seams. This attachment will give no trouble
in passing over any ordinary seam.
To fasten Off Seam and Take the Work Out, and to
Fasten Off at End of Work. Sew off end of seam two
stitches. More than this may leave the seam unlocked.
Stop with the needle at its highest point, lift the presser
Fig. 8, Spider Fig. 8¼. Spider foot, and with the right hand draw some slack thread through
Fig. 8 shows chain stitch attachment before Coarse treads, linen or silk. can be used for the eve of the needle, then lower the presser foot, and hold-
being placed in shuttle. beautiful results. OTTOrOICE
Fig. 8⅓ shows position in which chain stitch attach- ing the slack thread firmly, pull it upward from the work
ment should be held when placing same in shuttle. till it breaks in the goods. Lift the presser foot. Pull the
work from you, and the end of the thread will be drawn
HOW TO CHANGE FROM LOCK STITCH TO CHAIN STITCH
through the loop. Pall the end of the thread which will
Remove bobbin case and bobbin, turn the shuttle Ist.
by moving hand wheel forward, so that the center of tighten the knot and fasten off the seam.If you cannot
needle slot, I of shuttle is facing downward as in Fig. 9. pull any slack thread from the spool it is because the
Open shuttle cover J in Fig. 7. tension is not released.
Take the attachment in left hand with first 2nd.
finger on lever A and thumb on B as in Fig. 8½, press To Fasten Off in the Work. Stop the needle in the
hnger and thumb together, slip stem C over spindle J work, place the fingers on the work close to the presser foot
in center of shuttle, see Fig. 9. taking care that prong to prevent work from moving, raise presser foot, and take
D passes just in front of the shuttle point, as shown in one more stitch in the last hole made. Then break off the Fig. 10, then release pressure of first finger and thumb
and the attachment will be held in place. thread, take out the work, and fasten off as directed in
3rd. Remove the regular needle plate and put in its preceding paragraph.
place the special slotted needle plate. This plate must
be used when using the chain stitch attachment. To Fasten Seam to be Trimmed or Cut.Seams that you
4th. Thread up the machine in usual way and start wish to trim from the finishing end should be fastened by
by placing the finger on end of thread until first stitch sewing back in the same row of stitching, a little beyond
or two has been made. This prevents the thread from the point of trimming. If it is necessary to trim the finish. being drawn down into the race.
Sth. If thread should break, make tension stronger ing end of a seam that has not been fastened as above,
by wrapping thread around needle, by drawing thread immediately after cutting, lock the seam by inserting a pin
down back of needle, then around, before threading. through the loop on the under side of the goods, pulling the
6th. Do not force the attachment into the shuttle; end of the thread through and drawing it backward upon
it should slip into place readily.
7th. Do not run the machine backward when thread- the seam.
ed up, and do not sew off the goods, as this will cause To Take Out Seam. It is one of the decided advantages
the thread to break. of this attachment that the work can be taken to pieces, if
PROPER USE OF THIS ATTACHMENT REALLY GIVES YOU TWO MA- required, without injuring the material, by simply unlocking
CHINES IN ONE. the seam at any point and drawing out the thread.
N. B. To turn a corner, let the needle down so that the
point will enter the goods, but not far enough for the eye
of the needle to enter; then turn the goods, using the point
of the needle as a pivot, and proceed to sew; or turn the
goods when the take-up is at its highest point and use the
thread as a pivot. If you turn the goods without doing as
above instructed a skipped stitch will result.
The seam ean only be taken out in one direction, viz.,
towards the point of starting. It is, therefore, a good plan
Fig. 9. Shuttle Fir. 10. Spider in Shuttle, to begin all seams from the end most exposed.
H-Shuttle point 1-Needle Slot J-Shuttle Spindle Note position of B and H.View original page 7Page 8 · Read text
HEMMING AND FELLING HEMMING AND SEWING ON LACE AT ONE
OPERATION
The hemmer and feller which accompanies this machine NARROW HEMMING. is made with a slot for the needle to pass through instead of
Raise the presser bar and needle; remove the presser foot a round hole.This slot is to enable the operator to make a
and put in its place the hemmer foot; fasten it firmly. Clip off hem and sew on lace at the same time.Start a narrow hem
the right hand corner of the eloth and turn the edge of the and pass the end of the lace through the slot in the side of
eloth upward into the scroll of the hemmer and over to the the hemmer, earrying it under the back of the hemmer and left far enough to turn the hem. Then draw the cloth on top of the hem; then proceed as in ordinary hemming.
through the hemmer from you until the hem comes under Keep the lace well in the slot so that the needle will catch
the needle. Let the hemmer foot down and proceed to sew. it every time.
Guide the work as shown in the above figure, keeping the
scroll of the hemmer just full,
FELLING.
The hemmer is also the feller. Stitch two pieces together,
their edges to the right and the under edge projecting about
¼ inch beyond the upper; then open the work out flat edges
up; draw the edges at the beginning of the seam into the
hemmer, and proceed to sew, as in eut, page 10
French seams suitable for curve or body seams can also
be made with the feller by inserting two pieces with edges
even.
WIDE HEMMING.
Any width hem ean be made with the hemmer and feller
upon thin fabries by simply folding the goods the desired
width of hem, and then passing the edge through in
narrow hemming.
WIDE HEMMING-
12 13View original page 8Page 9 · Read text
QUILTING.
BINDING.
Fasten the quilter to the presser bar just above the foot, Raise the presser bar and the needle. Attach the binder
putting it on from the rear, being eareful not to push the in place of the presser foot.
presser foot out of position. The curved part or quilter arm Pass the binding through the scroll of the binder and
will serve as a guide and should be as far from the needle draw it back under the needle. Place the edge of the goods
as the desired distance between seams. The distance by- to be bound between the serolls of the binder and draw it
tween needle and quilter arm ean be regulated by loosening under the needle. Lower the presser bar and sew as usual.
the presser foot nut and moving the arm to the right or left. For bias binding, goods of any description ean be used.
WIDE HEMMING. For the binder ordinarily used, the binding should be eut
seven-eighths of an inch wide, in order to turn under at the
The wide hemmers belong with the regular set of attach- edges.
ments, and are used for wide hemming and on heavy goods. TO BIND WITH COMMON DRESS BRAID.
Attach in place of presser foot as in eut above.Fold the Proceed the same as when using bias binding, as ex-
goods (by hand) the width of hem required, turning one plained above. The only difference is, the dress braid being
fold only, adding about one-eighth of an inch, which will be narrower the edges will not be turned under, as is the ease
turned under by the hemmer; introduce the edge of the eloth with bias binding.
the same as for a narrow hem, and proceed in the same way,
holding the goods in the right hand. TO MAKE FRENCH FOLDS.
IMPORTANI Attach the binder as usual. Pass the binding through
the binder and sew as usual, stitching the edges together.
Always insist, when buying needles for the Rotary ma- This can be sewed on at the same time if desired.
chine that you get needles with IMPERIAL stamped TO BIND SCALLOPS.
on the shank. If you use any other needles for the In binding seallops, after binding around the scallops,
stop the machine with the needle in the goods, fold the elbow
Rotary you are sure to get into trouble. Some merchants
or angle of the following seallop so as to form as nearly as
may tell you they have other needles that will do just as possible a straight line, and continue binding. Hold the
well-_-but they won't. ALWAYS INSIST on getting goods being bound a little firmer than the binding, which
needles for the Rotary with the "IMPERIAL" stamped on will prevent its being drawn.
shank.View original page 9Page 10 · Read text
THE RUFFLER.
This rufler makes not only the ordinary rufle, vary-
ing from the faintest suggestion of a gather, to a plait
one-fourth of an inch deep, with one stitch to each ruffle,
but it makes plaits from one-fourth to three-fourths inch
wide, each plait sewed to the band or foundation by five
distinct stitches. During four stitches the gathering blade
remains stationary while the machine continues to feed
and the needle to sew. At the fifth stitch the gathering
blade moves and another plait is made, the edge being
caught by the stitch
TUCKING.
Attach the tucker firmly to the presser bar in place of
the foct; see that the lever which works the creasing arm
is under the needle clamp screw. To adjust the tucker loosen
the thumb serew. The width of the tuck is regulated by the
distance of the edge-guide to the right of the line of the
needle or seam; the tuck will be exactly as wide as this
distance. The space between tucks is determined by the
distance of the creasing blade to the left of the line of the
needle or seam.The figures on the scales on the tucker are FIG. 11
for convenience in adjusting the width of tuek and distance
between tucks. If the pointers on the two scales are at the TO ATTACH THE RUFFLER.
same figure, them the creasing blade is twice the distance
to the left of the needle that the edge-guide is to the right, See that the screw D lies with the pointed end to the
and the tucks will meet; that is, the crease of one tuck will right, as shown in Fig. 11. Raise the needle and presser
lie exactly over the seam of the last tuck. When adjusted bars.the slotRemoveA, Fig.the 11,presserpushingfoottheandslotattachonto thethe presserruffler barat
as wanted, tighten thumb screw. from the front as far as it will go. Adjust so that the
TO OPERATE TUCKER. prongs of the fork B, Fig. 11, will he on either side of
the needle clamp screw, as in cut on page 19.
Make the first crease in the usual manner by hand. In- You will observe that the disc F is notched on the
sert the cloth between the creasing arm and blade and the outside, and that two of these notches are deeper than
blade spring; the part that is to be tucked on the top. Draw the others. When the ruffler is attached to the machine,
it to the right until the crease of the cloth comes against one of the deep notches should be at the top, and the
the edge-guide. Then sew as in plain work. Fold at the pawl of the lever B, that is, the small end nearest you,
crease in making subsequent tucks. Take care that the tuck should be in the deep notch and held there by the screw
last made is inside the gauge that is directly beneath the head D.
ereaserIn maitingblade. the last tack, throw the lever above the These rufflers are sent from the factory adjusted in that way. needle clamp so that the creasing arm will not operate.
16View original page 10Page 11 · Read text
ORDINARY RUFFLING. RUFFLING AND SEWING ON.
Insert the goods to be ruffled between the blades H, Place the piece to be gathered between the two blades
Fig. 11, pushing the cloth from you, with the aid of the of the ruffler, as in ordinary ruffling and the goods on
small screw driver or stiletto, until it lies smooth under which the ruffle is to be stitched under the ruffler on the
the needle. bed of the machine. Proceed as in plain ruffling.
To make a rufle very full either shorten the stitch of
your machine or instead of this turn the thumb serew C, RUFFLING, SEWING ON AND PUTTING ON
Fig. 11, to the right. To make a scant ruffle turn thumb FACING AT ONE STITCHING.
screw to the left, or instead, lengthen the stitch of your
machine. Place goods and material to be ruffled exactly as in
"ruflling and sewing on." Place facing over the blued
For full or scant ruffling it is advisable to shorten or blades and under the foot, and proceed as usual, being
lengthen stitch of machine, rather than to adjust with
thumb screw, other than to make the crimper move far careful to keep goods and facing straight and smooth
enough to pick up the cloth
SEWING ON RUFFLE WITH NARROW HEADING.
TO MAKE FIVE-STITCH PLAITS.
Fold over edge to be gathered ½ inch. Place ma-
All that is required is to turn the screw D, Fig. 11, terial to be ruffled between blued blades, under second
half way around, so that the sharp end will be to the left guide and over first guide. Place garment underneath the
in the position shown by the faint line that projects from ruffler, allowing it to come out to the left of the needle the attachment at the letter D. It will be seen that the the width of the rufle; this will make bottom of ruffle and rufling blade moves only at every fifth stitch. The dis-
lance between folds will be regulated by the length of the bottom of garment perfectly even. Be sure and keep
stitch garment straight.
It is not practical to make five-stitch plaits less than
one-fourth of an inch apart.View original page 11Page 12 · Read text
PUFFING.
Cut the goods the width of puff required and ruffle
each edge alternately. Bands may be sewed on by fol-
lowing instructions for ruffling and sewing on. Puffing
is shown in cut on page 20, in center of goods.
UNDERBRAIDING.
This attachment is placed in posi-
tion as follows: In the needle plate
at the right of the presser foot you will
see two openings. Place the point A
in the opening farthest from you, and the
SHIRRING. pin C in the opening nearest you. Push the
attachment into these openings as far as
Attach the shirring blade, which find it will go, which will fasten it. Before
in the box of attachments, in the same pushing it into place be careful to put the
manner as the underbraider is attached. braid into the channel of the attachment
Before attaching the ruffler to the with enough projecting from the end to
presser bar, grasp the attachment firmly Underbraider. insure its coming under the needle and
between the thumb and forefinger of the
presser foot. Place the goods wrong side
left hand and push down with the right ip with the pattern traced on the upper side, and proceed
hand on the part at the bottom of the
attachment that projects to the right s in ordinary sewing, following the pattern.
Shirring Blade It will be found that this part swings
downward on a pivot, and that the sep-
arating blade is attached to it. Continue to push down- EMBROIDERING.
ward and backward until the part is swung into position,
at the back of the ruffler, where it will be entirely out of This attachment is the simplest, most compact and solid-
the way of the work. Attach the ruffler as described. ly built of anything of the kind that was ever put upon the
Place the goods between the ruffling and shirring blades, market. Arrasene, Tinsel, Chenille and all other threads used
and proceed the same as in ordinary ruffling. in embroidery can be used with this attachment.
20View original page 12Page 14 · Read text
stitch exactly in the middle of the cloth. This is necessary
in order to have perfect work. When the strips are sewed
together, remove from the machine and separate the strips
from each other, folding the cloth so that the stitching shows PRICE LIST OF PARTS
like drawn work between two pieces.Crease the cloth neatly
on both sides of this drawn work or hemstitching, as it is FOR THE
generally called, and stitch closely to the edge to hold the
work in position.These strips can be used as bands between ROTARY SHUTTLE SEWING MACHINE
rows of tucks, pufing, embroidered insertion, lace, etc., or can FAMILY STYLE
be sewed together and used for a yoke or solid trimming.
A little experimenting will enable the operator to join RegulatorWhenPlate,ordering ports250 number,mense fansnamemunaberand priceice machineof part, asonperStitck.list
the strips neatly, and care is all that is required in trimming streetState address,plainly whethertown. countyyou wishand partsstate. sentSendby mail or express,and RIVE
and folding the strips so as to make the bands the proper cover postage. No order will be filled forpricelessof thanparts10andcentsenough
distanee apart, and the open work the width desired.
This attachment will not do the hemstitching of handker-
chiefs, or work where threads are actually drawn from the No. Name of Part Price
goods, but produces work that is very effective and desirable D201202 ArmScrews $3.50.05
Do for use in all sorts of garments, as the joining of the threads B202 Screw Washer …OK B212
in the center of the open work makes a durable trimming that 203B 203D BushingWasher
will stand the severe tests of the laundry. 204
201 SidePlate This open work, or hemstitching, as it is called, com-
mends itself to every practical woman who uses a sewing ma-
chine, as it is easily made and is an economical way to use
up strips of cloth that cannot be used for other purposes.
Thumb*
SEWING MACHINE OIL. Set
When buying sewing machine oil, it is more economical RetainerScrew Los:
to get the best, and it is very important that you always use utomati Assemb
oil especially compounded for sewing machines. Frame
Poor oil gums and fills up the oil holes and does not PulleySpin
afford proper lubrication and consequently the machine will Throw-off
not run easily.
If good sewing machine oil cannot be obtained from Frame Stud
your dealer, send your order direct to us and you will get the Extension
very best, suitable for any machine. Bob'n Winder Tension
REMEMBER 3626BA Bobbin Case, assembled
3626B Shell
If you have any trouble with your Rotary; D3626B Tension Spring Seres 228C remember that when your machine left the
factory it was in perfect sewing order and if E3627 Latch Pin
3627
you have any trouble now, it can only mean B3627 Slidc...as
something has happened to it after shipment C3627 Stop
from factory. Read this Instruction Book D36272231 Guard Sprins
carefully and if you cannot remedy the 258VA Face Plate, assembled
trouble then write to factory before you try D259A Screw ....o
to adjust it yourself, unless you thoroughly 389D Thread G suide
B260 Feed Bar ..... understand the mechanical construction. Do F260 Pivot Stud
not let people tamper with your machine StudSetAdjustingcrew... unless you know they are absolutely reliable.
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From the ISMACS International. Original publisher and archive notices are retained.
Check the model and edition against your equipment.
PDF verified 2026-10-11.