Wheeler & Wilson Adjusting the Curved Needle Sewing Machine — User manual

AdjustingAdjusting thetheCurvedCurved NeedleNeedle SewingSewing MachineMachine -- NBWikiNBWiki http://www.needlebar.org/nbwiki/index.php?title=Adjus..http://www.needlebar.org/nbwiki/index.php?title=Adjus...

   AdjustingAdjusting thethe CurvedCurved NeedleNeedle SewingSewing
  MachineMachine

     FromFrom NBWikiNBWiki

    byby J.D.J.D. BelcherBelcher

      (submitted(submitted byby DaveDave King)King)

       OriginallyOriginally publishedpublished inin WorkWork Magazine,Magazine, thethe illustratedillustrated weeklyweekly journaljournal forformechanics.mechanics. JanuaryJanuary 4th4th
     1902


      {Click{Click onon thumbnailsthumbnails forfor largerlarger images)images)

       TheThe curvedcurvedneedleneedlelockstitchlockstitch sewingsewingmachinemachineisisusedusedextensivelyextensivelyinin thethe manufacturemanufactureofofshirts,shirts,
      collars,collars, cuffscuffsandand whitewhite goodsgoods generally.generally. ItIthashasveryveryfewfewpartspartsandandconsequentlyconsequently runsruns veryvery
      smoothly,smoothly, beingbeing easyeasy andandsilent.silent. ItIt consistsconsistsofofa acurvedcurvedarmarm AA (Fig.1),(Fig.1),carryingcarrying anan upperupper needle,needle,
      anotheranother armarmB Bhavinghavinga apresserpresserfootfoottotoholdholdthethefabricfabric firmly;firmly; aa rotatingrotating hookhook C,C, recessedrecessed toto
       receivereceive aa spoolspool carryingcarrying thethe underunder thread;thread; andandaa feederfeeder toto produceproducethetherequiredrequiredlengthlengthofofstitch.stitch.
      TheThe wholewholeisis operatedoperatedbyby anan eccentriceccentric camcamDDsituatedsituatedunderunderthetheclothcloth plateplate E.E.

                                                                  Fig.Fig. 22 representsrepresents aa hookhook forfor aa curvedcurved
                                                          needleneedle machine.machine. TheThe groovegroove AA isis aboutabout
                                                                  7/8in.long,7/8in.long, beginsbegins aboutabout 5/8in.5/8in. fromfrom thethe
                                                      extremeextreme point,point, isis aboutabout 1/8in.1/8in. widewide andand
                                                              1/16in.1/16in. deep,deep, graduallygradually taperingtapering andand
                   FIG. 1                                      narrowingnarrowing tilltill ititreachesreaches thethe
                                                           circumference;circumference; atat aa shortshort distancedistance (B)(B)
                                                             beyondbeyondthisthis thethe hookhook isis chamfered.chamfered. CC
                                                           representsrepresents aa recessrecess whichwhich admitsadmits aa
                                                         metalmetal spoolspool holdingholding thethe underunder thread.thread. AA
                                                           bridgebridge DD fromfromthethethroatthroat toto thethe heelheel ofof
                                                             thethe hookhook actsacts asas aa guardguard andand preventsprevents
                                                           thethe needleneedle springingspringing onon toto thethe hookhook
                                                                  point.point. EE isisaawasherwasher oror backback wallwall ofof thethe
                                                          hook,hook, andand referencereferencetoto itit willwillbebemademade
                                                                  later.later.


       TheThestitchstitch differsdiffers fromfrom thethe usualusual locklock stitch,stitch,andand aa knowledgeknowledge ofofitsits formationformation willwill greatlygreatly aidaid thethe
      mechanicmechanic inin adjustingadjusting thisthis classclass ofofmachine.machine. TheThe needleneedle carryingcarrying thethe upperupper threadthread descendsdescendstotoitsits
      lowestlowest pointpoint ofof travel,travel, thenthen risesrises slightly,slightly,formingforming thethe threadthread inin toto aa loop,loop, intointowhichwhich thethe pointpoint ofof
      thethe rotatingrotating hookhook entersenters (see(see Fig.Fig. 3).3).AsAsthethehookhook revolves,revolves,ititmakesmakes thethe looplooplargerlargerbybydrawingdrawing
     moremore slack;slack; continuingcontinuingitsits movementmovement thethethreadthreadis isdrawndrawnintointothethegroovegrooveA (Fig.A (Fig.2)2)untiluntil itit
      reachesreaches thethechamferedchamferedpartpartB. B.At Atthisthispointpointoneonelinelineofofthethethreadthreadslipsslips offoff andand fallsfalls overover thethe outerouter
       sideside ofof thethe bobbinbobbin oror spoolspool (the(the otherother lineline ofof thethe threadthread lieslies atat thethe rear).rear).TheThe looploop thusthus passingpassing
      roundround thethe bobbinbobbininterlocksinterlocks thethe underunder threadthreadandandformsformsa alockstitch.lockstitch. NowNow itit cancan easilyeasily bebe seenseen
       thatthat whenwhen thethe hookhookhashasmademaderatherrathermoremorethanthanhalfhalfa arevolutionrevolutionthethelooploop wouldwouldslipslip offoff thethe hookhook
      andandbecomebecomeuncontrollable,uncontrollable,hencehenceit itisisnecessarynecessarytotoholdholditit untiluntil thethe hookhook hashas completedcompleted itsits
       action.action. ForFor thisthis purposepurpose aa smallsmallbrushbrushA A(Fig.(Fig.4)4)isis fixedfixed soso asas toto presspress slightlyslightlyagainstagainstthethehookhook
     andand thusthus retainretain thethe threadthread untiluntilthethehookhookpointpointhashasenteredentered thethelooploopmademade forfor thethesucceedingsucceeding
        stitch,stitch,atatwhichwhich timetime thethe threadthread isisreleasedreleasedowingowing toto thethe bevelledbevelled edgeedge ofof thethe hookhook passingpassing thethe
      brushbrush andandmakingmakingan anexitexitforforit.it. AtAt thisthis pointpoint (see(see Fig.Fig.4)4)therethereremainsremains aa longlong looploop totobebe drawndrawn inin
       toto thethe fabric.fabric. InInmostmost machinesmachines aatake-uptake-upleverleverisis attachedattachedforfor thisthis purpose,purpose, butbut herehere thethe looploop isis
     drawndrawn inin toto thethe goodsgoods byby thethe actionaction ofof thethe hook.hook. AfterAfterthethehookhook hashas enteredentered thethe loop,loop,formedformed byby
      thethe risingrising ofof thethe needle,needle, ititenlargesenlarges it,it,andandininsosodoingdoingdrawsdraws upup thethe slackslack ofof thethe previousprevious stitchstitch
     andand lockslocks itit (see(see Fig.Fig. 4).4).TheThe dotteddotted lineslines indicateindicate thethe upperupper thread,thread, thethe fullfull lineslines thethe lowerlower oror


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      bobbinbobbin thread.thread.TheTheillustrationillustration representsrepresentsthethelockinglockingofofthethestitchesstitches inin thethe centrecentre ofof thethe material,material,
     andand thethe hookhookjustjust enteringenteringthethelooploopisis aboutabouttotodrawdrawthethepreviouspreviousstitchstitchtighttightinintoto thethe fabric.fabric.
      EvidentlyEvidently eacheach stitchstitch isis formedformed partlypartly fromfrom thethe formerformer stitch,stitch, butbut withwith thethe additionaddition ofofsomesome
      threadthread drawndrawnfromfromthetheupperupperreel.reel. OnOnthisthis upperupper reelreel therethere mustmust bebe aa certaincertain amountamount ofof tensiontension
      oror thethe hookhook inin itsitsactionactionwillwilldrawdrawthreadthread fromfrom thethe reelreel insteadinstead ofofdrawingdrawing upup thethe previousprevious loop.loop.
      Therefore,Therefore, aa tensiontension pulleypulley isis operatedoperated byby aa spring,spring, andand greatgreat carecare shouldshould bebe exercisedexercised inin
       adjustingadjusting thethe tensiontension andand pressurepressure ofof thethe brushbrush againstagainst thethe hook.hook.





                                                                                           FiG 4



      ToTo setset aa needle,needle, loosenloosen thethe needleneedle yokeyoke byby meansmeans ofof aa wrench;wrench; placeplace thethe needleneedle shankshank throughthrough
      thethe smallsmall holehole inin thethe needleneedle yoke,yoke, havinghaving thethe longlong groovegroove toto thethe leftleft hand;hand; thenthen screwscrew thethe yokeyoke upup
       firmly.firmly. SeeSee thatthat thethe needleneedle passespasses throughthroughthethecentrecentreofofthetheholeholeininthetheneedleneedleplate;plate;ifif itit doesdoes not,not,
     bendbend itit untiluntilititdoes.does.TurnTurnthethewheelwheeluntiluntilthethehookhookpointpointreachesreachesthetheneedle,needle,whenwhen thethe eyeeye shouldshould
      bebe 1/6in.1/6in. belowbelow thethe pointpoint ofofthethehook.hook.However,However, ininsomesome machinesmachines thethe eyeeye ofof thethe needleneedle shouldshould bebe
       setset levellevelwithwith thethewasherwasher oror backback partpart ofof hookhook whenwhenthethepointpointofof thethe hookhookisis justjust upup toto thethe needleneedle
       (see(see Fig.Fig. 2).2).WhenWhen turningturningaa squaresquarecorner,corner,raiseraisethetheneedleneedletilltill thethe eyeeye isis nearlynearly outout ofof thethe goods,goods,
     drawdraw thethe threadthreadupwardsupwardsfromfromthetheeyeeyeo theo theneedleneedleuntiluntilquitequitetight,tight, raiseraise thethe presserpresser foot,foot, andand
      turnturn thethe materialmaterial toto thethe desireddesired angleangle andand proceedproceed toto sew.sew.



       ToTo timetime thethe hook,hook, thethe instructioninstruction bookbook directsdirects thatthat thethe needleneedle bebe setset soso thatthat whenwhen thethe pointpoint ofof thethe
      hookhook justjust reachesreachesit,it, thethe centrecentre ofof thethe eyeeye willwill bebe levellevelwithwith thethe toptop edgeedge ofof thethe backback partpart ofof thethe
      hookhook (see(see Fig.Fig. 2).2).ThreadThread thethe machinemachine withwith cottoncotton andandhavehavethethestitchstitch aboutabout 1/20in.1/20in. long,long, andand
      beginbegin toto sewsew onon twotwo thicknessesthicknesses ofof unbleachedunbleached calico.calico. TurnTurn thethe machinemachine withwith thethe handhand andandstopstop itit
      thethe momentmoment thethelooploopisiscastcast offoff thethe hookhook onon toto thethe bobbin.bobbin. RaiseRaise thethe
       clothcloth presserpresser andand seesee whetherwhether thetheeyeeyeofof thethe needleneedle isis 1/16in.1/16in. aboveabove
      thethe cloth.cloth. (This(This isis howhow itit shouldshouldbe.)be.)IfIf itit isis tootoo high,high, lowerlower itit halfhalf thethe
      distancedistance itit isistootoohigh,high,andand again,again, timetime thethe hookhook byby thethe needle;needle; ifif thethe
                                                               2%      needleneedle isis tootoo low,low, raiseraise itithalfhalfthethedistancedistanceandand re-timere-time thethe hook.hook.


      TheTheShortShortleverlever FF (Fig.(Fig. 1)1) determinesdetermines thethe strokestroke ofof thetheneedleneedle arm,arm,
     andand itsits correctcorrect positionposition isis asas follows:-follows:-WhenWhen thethe armarmisis atat itsits lowestlowest
       point,point, thethe centrecentre ofof thetheneedleneedle clampclamp shouldshould bebe 5/8in.5/8in. fromfrom thethe cloth-cloth-
       plate,plate, andand atat itsitshighesthighestpointpointbarelybarely2 23/163/16in.in.fromfromthethecloth-plate.cloth-plate.TheTheneedleneedleclampclamp shouldshould
     movemove aboutabout1 11/2in.1/2in. fromfromhighesthighesttoto lowestlowest position.position. AA handyhandy gaugegauge(Fig.(Fig.5)5) forfor testingtesting thesethese
      distancesdistances cancan bebe mademadefromfromsheetsheetsteel,steel,3in.3in.byby3in.3in. byby 1/16in.1/16in.


       ToTo regulateregulate thethe tensiontension ofof thethe underunder thread,thread, asas nono specialspecial devicedevice isis fixed,fixed,thethethreadthreadshouldshoulddrawdraw
      fromfrom thethe spoolspool quitequite freely,freely,thethespool,spool,whenwhen unwinding,unwinding, turningturning towardstowards thethe operator.operator. TheThe spoolspool isis
      heldheld inin positionposition byby aa ringring slideslide GG (Fig.1)(Fig.1) whichwhich isis adjustable.adjustable. IfIfthethespoolspoolhashas tootoomuchmuch play,play, thethe
      upperupper thread,thread,insteadinsteadofofpassingpassingtotothethefrontfrontsidesideofof thethe bobbin,bobbin,willwill fallfall insideinsideandand break;break; inin suchsuch


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      aa case,case, removeremove thethe ringring slideslide andand screwscrew inin thethe adjustingadjusting screwscrew HHaa little.little. CareCaremustmust bebe takentaken notnot
       too setset thethe ringring slideslide tootoo tighttight againstagainst thethe spool,spool, ororititwillwillimpedeimpedeitsitsfreefreemovement,movement, whichwhich isis
      imperativeimperative toto thethe perfectperfect workingworking ofof thethemachine.machine.


       ToTo setset thethe brushbrush accordingaccording toto thethe instructioninstruction book,book, makemake thethe stitchstitch 1/20in.1/20in. long.long.UseUse twotwo
      thicknessesthicknesses ofof unbleachedunbleached calicocalico only.only.SetSetthethesegmentsegment whichwhich holdsholds thethe brushbrush aboutabout 1/8in.1/8in. aboveabove
      thethe lowestlowest pointpoint toto whichwhich itit cancan go,go, andand soso thatthat thethe leftleftedgeedge ofof thethe brushbrush willwillbebe eveneven withwith thethe
       pointpoint ofof thethe hook.hook. SetSet thethe brushbrush soso thatthat thethe lowerlower twotwo thirdsthirds willwill touchtouch thethe hook;hook; butbut itit mustmust notnot
      bebe pushedpushed sosohardhardagainstagainstthethe hookhookasastoto dividedivide thethe bristlesbristlesnornorpresspressagainstagainstthethechamferedchamfered partpart
       ofof thethe hook.hook. AfterAfterthethebrushbrush straightensstraightens thethelooploopacrossacrossthethebobbin,bobbin,thetheneedleneedlearmarm shouldshould
      descenddescend 1/32in.1/32in. only.only. IfIfititdoesdoesnot,not,lowerlowerthethesegment.segment.TheThe threadthread mustmust bebe perfectlyperfectly freefree fromfrom
      thethe brushbrush whenwhenthethepointpoint ofof thethe hookhook hashas enteredentered thethe newnewlooploop 1/4in.1/4in.


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          • ThisThis pagepage waswaslastlast editededited onon 77 JulyJuly 2009,2009, atat 09:41.09:41.





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