Eldredge B Long-Shuttle — User manual

—IMPORTANT—



Be sure that the voltage, marked

on the name plate of your motor,
»  the same as the current  in

         your home.

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS


    Before leaving the factory every machine has been carefully adjusted
and minutely inspected, its sewing qualities having been tested on all kinds
of work, and found perfect in every respect.

   Do not tamper with the adjustments of the machine; serious trouble is
almost sure  to result from any unnecessary meddling with  the working
parts.

    Before commencing  to sew be certain  to  oil and clean machine ac­
cording to instructions.

    After using the machine, always see  that  it  is well  cleaned  before
putting it away.

   Do  not attempt  to  use  the attachments  until you can manage  the
machine with ease on plain sewing.

     In sewing where special  elasticity  is required, as on  bias seams, or
veiy  elastic  material,  hold  the work  back  slightly,  to keep  the  cloth
stretched while being sewed.

    Machine not working properly generally  is caused by the following
The thread being too coarse or  fine for the needle, the needle being bent
or blunted; poor thread.  See that the needle is perfectly straight and that
 it  is pushed up as far as  it will go into the needle bar.   It should past
nearly through the center of the needle plate hole when properly set.

    Should the machine miss stitches  in running  off from a thick seam.
 hold the cloth back slightly  to keep  it straight and to prevent  its rising
 up with  the  needle.   In  using  slack,  twisted, or uneven  silk, should  it
become frayed or roughened, the needle is too fine, or has a hook  •••;?:•. its
 point caused by striking the needle  plate.

   To turn a corner. Stop the machine with the needle in the cloth. Then
 lift the presser foot and turn the work  in the direction desired, using the
 needle as a pivot.

    The  presser  foot must  never be  left down on  the  feed when  the
 machine is running unless there is cloth between, as the sharp teeth of the
 feed will injure the bottom of the presser foot.

   When  ordering  needles, or  parts, or  supplies  of any kind  for  this
 machine, always give the  full name and number  of the machine.  This
 number will be found stamped on bed plate underneath front shuttle slide
    Know your machine.  Refer  to large illustration on pages 20 and 21
 which will help  u to identify the parts as explained in instructions.

                                          3

INSTRUCTIONS FOR SETTING MOTOR PULLEY





             Figure 4                            Figure 5





               THE MOTOR PULLEY



      It  is very important to have the motor pulley set correctly. A
bearing as  in  figure 4  will generally be found  to be just  right.   If  the
motor pulley  is set in too far against the balance wheel as  in Figure  5.
the machine will start hard, the motor will heat up quickly, the machine
will not run as fast as it should, and the motor pulley will soon wear out.
A very good way to find  if pulley  is set right  is to hold the balance
wheel and press the control lever.  If the motor pulley slips around on
the balance wheel, the pulley  is set right.   If, by holding the balance
wheel, the motor is also stopped, the motor pulley is set in too far and
should be adjusted until  it slips when balance wheel is held.


   CAUTION:  Be careful  to avoid gCtthl    . any  oil on  the rfa* of the
hand wheel and the rubber face of the motor pulley,





                                                5

WINDING BOBBINS





                         Fig. 7—Winding the Bobbin

   With the  left hand, hold the balance wheel, turning the brake button
(center, right of wheel) toward you with the right hand.  This stops the
sewing mechanism  of the machine.  Push  the bobbin winder up so  that
the rubber wheel conies  in  contact with  the balance wheel.  Catch  the
thread in with the bobbin as  it  is inserted  in the right end of the socket;
pull out the spindle socket at the left to admit the other end of the bobbin
and  let  it back slowly.  Carry  the thread from the bobbin,  first    t .ro‘ <
the upper end, then through the lower slots in the distributor.  Start the
motor and be sure  to stop before  the thread  is wound higher than  th?
metal ends of the bobbin. When  finished  pull bobbin winder  town an
tighten brake button.

          TO REMOVE SHUTTLE FROM CARRIER

                                          Pull  out  front  shuttle  slide  far
                                  enough to bring shuttle carrier into
                                                  full view.  Push down the point of
                                          shuttle to release  it at the back, and
                                      with the thumb and  forefinger  lift
                                                          it from the carrier. Do not attempt
                                           to remove the shuttle by pulling at
                                        the spring, as this  is liable to bend
                                                               it out of shape.
    Fig. 8—Removing the shuttle
           from carrier

THREADING THE MACHINE





    Fig. 12—The machine threaded, showing the different thread guide*


     Place thread on spool pin (A) carry  it between the discs    >: he fric­
tion thread guide (B). Then down to the right an
 (C), under spring, and with a turn from you hook into loop (D).  Carry
 thread up through takeup (E), threading from front to
 takeup, E, at highest point when threading).  Bring tinea    I  Iowa    •
guides (F) and (G) and into needle (H)—threading  fr >m  left to right.
   Do not wrap thread around discs of friction thread guide (B) or ten­
sion discs (C).




  The sewing guide  is attached  to
the bed of the machine by means of
the thumb screw and  is used as  a
guide for straight stitching.




                                                          Fig. 13

                                       9

TO COMMENCE SEWING

     After the machine  is threaded, pull up the under thread by turning the
 balance wheel over with the right hand, while  holdin;: the upper thread
 with the  left hand. Allow the needle to enter the needle hole to pmk up
 the under thread.  Both threads should then be pulled to the back of the
 presser foot. Lower the presser bar after the cloth h inserted, and begin
 to sew, regulating the speed with the pressure of the foot on the motor
 foot  control.
     Unless there is cloth between do not leave the presser foot down on the
 feed while the machine  is running, as this injures both foot and fe-

          TO REGULATE THE LENGTH OF STITCH
    The  length of stitch  is regulated by means of  the  stitch  regulating
 screw.  (See Fig.  16 on pages 20 and 21). To lengthen the stitch, loosen
 the screw and push  it up. To shorten the stitch, push the screw down or
 to a higher  figure. Always tighten the screw before sewing.

        TO AVOID THE PRESSURE ON THE MATERIAL
     In ordinary sewing  it  is seldom necessary to change the pressure of
 the presser  foot on  the material.  In sewing  fine  silks, chiffon or other
 delicate fabrics, lighten the pressure by turning the presser bar reg    <
 up (See Fig. 16 on pages 20 and 21). This releases the pressure from the
material and prevents prints or roughness appearing on  fine materials.
   To  increase  the  pressure when sewing on heavy  materials  or over
heavy seams, turn  this regulating screw down.

               TO REMOVE THE WORK

    Stop the machine with the thread take-up at the highest point, raise
the presser foot and draw the fabric back. Pass the threads over the thread
cutter and  pull down gently  to
break them.  Leave the end  of
the  threads  about  three  inches
long,  so  the  upper  thread  will
not pull through the eye of the
needle when you  start  to sew
again.


  THE THREAD CUTTER

   It  is easily snapped into place
on  the presser  bar. The thread
cutter will be found in the small
envelope  in  the box  of  attach­
ments.

                                                       Fig. 15
                                Thread cutter attached to machine

TO REGELATE THE TENSIONS

         tl » important to thorr    t.   '.        tand th® regulating of the tension
                                                                                       its  effects upon  the
   general appearance O                                                                 .   matter what kind of material you
   art tmttg. the thread should lock  in the center, as shown  in the figure
   hen-w





          If the upper  tenston  it too  tight, or the under tension too loose, the
        * ---a  - w-                             • ; a' —g the surface of the material, as shown in figure
   brio*





                        .  ... — _r.  .cr .rn  ]k too tight, or the upper tension too loose, the
I CT4f  t        -  »traight along the underside of the material, as shown in
F  igmre hekrw.





                                                                                                               ■    :    take a perfect stitch you will find
                                                                                                                                                            ’      •      '       '               .    :   mmc r cr ’ower tensicu.      -  r.f
                                                   er  tension, and a knot of thread
  CStN* it tt> be beM op. This would not allow spring to press on the thread.
  Looms 4*the sbottJe*.*',•tensionar.d adjustscrewtension(See Fig.screw.11 on page S), slightly raise the

     The opper tension  is governed by flat discs.  These are regulated  to
  pre** on the thread by turning   I             regulators  (See  Fig.  16 on
   pag^CS 30 and 21) to the nght to tighten and  to the  left to loosen.  A
              •'  ’ —                           '   i      '  ''                       tr t mses by loosening the screw
                  '          '                   •   *           '  -                                              .                       •        .  tested when the presser bar
       »   »t  a »                                   ‘       «■ -.  «  -   t 4.     • thrown up


                                            12

TO SEW ON THE BIAS ON FINE MATERIALS

    Use a short  stitch and a loose tension on  the upper thread, so  the
thread  is  left loose enough  in the seam to allow the goods to stretch,  if
necessary.


                   A BASTING STITCH

    Use the longest stitch the machine will make and a loose upper ten­
sion.  This stitch can easily be pulled out.


             TO AVOID BREAKING NEEDLES

    See that the presser foot or attachments are securely fastened to the
presser bar by means  of  the thumb screw and  that  the  needle passes
through needle hole.  Do not sew heavy seams or thick goods with too
fine a needle.  Use the table on page 10 for the correct size of needle and
thread to correspond with materials.  Avoid pulling the work while stitch­
ing; merely guide the cloth and the feed will carry  it along.



           CAUSES OF UPPER THREAD BREAKING

   When the upper thread breaks  it may be caused by—
                  Incorrect threading of machine;
                Tension too tight;
                Thread too coarse for needle;
                 Needle bent, blunt-pointed, or set incorrectly;
                  Starting machine at full speed;
               Not bringing up lower thread correctly.


           CAUSES OF LOWER THREAD BREAKING

    This may be caused by  incorrect threading  of  the  shuttle; by  net
bringing up lower thread before starting to sew; by having tOO               ..
sion; or by having bobbin wound too full to revolve freely in the shuttle


                   SKIPPING STITCHES

   The needle may not be properly set;  it may be blunt or bent.  The
thread may be too heavy for the size ot the needle.  Needle may be too
short.

                                           13

FELLING





                        FELLING



   The narrow hemmer  and  feller  arc  the  same.   If  the hemmer   ;>
attached  it can be used in place of the presser foot in running up a >ear.i
Sew together two pieces of cloth with the under edge projecting betwee   i
one-eighth and one-quarter of an inch beyond the upper edge, then  trim
the edges  if necessary, leaving enough goods between the row    ■:  stitchir
and the edges' to  fill the hemmer and turn  it  nicely, open the work  fiat.
wrong side up, and trim  the corner of the same  slightly, then push  the
goods into the  feller until the needle  is reached.  Lower the  feller on the
feed and start the machine. The feed will carry the seam through with mt
assistance, making a complete  fell from the beginning. There is no nerc.
sity of touching the goods at  all, but just as well to keep them m;. mthed
out nice and  flat.


   The positive double feed makes this variety of work a  pcctal feature
of this machine


                                             15

TUCKER





                     TUCKER


     Slip the fork of the tucker into the attachment holder on the presser
bar, and with  the screw fasten  it down firmly, being careful  to have the
needle go through the needle hole in the tucker frame. The tuck marker
is operated by the neck of the needle clamp striking in the tuck  lever.

   The  rear scale of  the. tucker indicates the width of  the tucks  t<> be
made, and  the  front  scale  indicates  the  distance between  the  different
tucks.

   To have tucks that just meet, set rear scale at Figure ‘T* and  front
scale  at Figure "2"  etc. To have tucks  that overlap, set the  front  scale
at a lower figure than  th<- back and to have tucks se]
scale at a higher figure than the back.

    Fold the cloth at the place where the  first tuck k desired, ami place
it under the tucker lever and  the presser  foot, with  the  folded edge   t     ■
the right and against the upri  hi  juide of the                                                        .
and creaser mark  the  cloth  for the next  tuck, and  after the  tivxt  tuck
is completed the  cloth should be  folded along  this mark and  placed
before, and so on..


                                           17

BINDING
   Remove the presser foot from the machine and attach  the binder  in
its place. The binder  is adjustable  sidewise,  to bring the stitching prop­
erly  close  to  the edge  of  binding.  The  little downward  projecting  lug
serves as a guide to prevent the narrow widths of binding
under the foot toward the  right.
   With  this new multiple binder a garment can now be piped and b >un     '.
in one  single  stitching.  Even two bindings of contrasting  color can  be
entered into their correct size slots for piping, and enclosed in a  still  r. i:
rower binding, giving the  effect  of  a double reversible piping  The     ■    i
rowest width should be entered into  its  riot  first and
the needle, then followed by the others.
   The Multiple  Slot  Binder will carry  bindin
single  fold commercial  bindings  sizes   1,  2,  3,  4,  5, and  6.  They  are  tc  1
respectively through  the  five  slots  in  the  binder  scroll,  beginning  with
the smallest.  Sizes 5 and 6 are  fed through  slot No.  5.  The single  told
commercial binding  for sale  in department stores must be used   In add:
tion,   it  will  carry  the  familiar 15/16 inch bias cut binding                                                             .   •.
woman has always used, making  it  her elf  with  the
gauge, from  self  material  or  otherwise. The  15/16
entered through the open mouth of the scroll.
    Finer  fabrics  call  for the narrower bindings. The binding should be
entered into the  slot or  scroll, depending on  th
passed through until the  'aid <ome   ui  lei
to be bound  is placed between the folds of the scroll, next lower the bin let,
then  start the machine.  Feed the bindin    vitl  the  i
the goods with the  left, being careful to keep the goods well between  tin
scroll and  to keep the binding from becoming  twisted.
                                          19

Exp. B. T. Long Shuttle Ty





                            refer to this picture and
You will find  it helpful to
                      To Thread Machine


                                                       2C

RUFFLING BETWEEN BANDS

                       As For Making Aprons

     Place the lower band in the ruffler, having the right  ide  «,f the
 up; place the apron into the  ruffler gauge, then place the top band <ner
 or on top of the ruffler gauge and under the ruffler foot.  This operation
 will blind stitch the band on each side of the apron.



             RUFFLING AND SEWING IN PIPING

       It  is most convenient to do  this work from the upper  side, although
  it can be done from the lower also, by using the shirring plate.  Place the
 goods for the ruffle in the ruffler the same as for plain  rtiffliriLg, then insert
 the  piping  into  the gauge nearest  the  ruffle gauge, drawing  it through
 under the foot, insert the folded edge of the band into the gauge nearest
 the needle, drawing  it also under the foot. You will notice that the band
 and piping gauge  is made adjustable to the right or left, so you may stitch
 as close to the edge as desired.



                     REMARKS

    Should the crimping blade need  to be sharpened, never  file or grind
 it from the bottom  side, but always from the  top.  It should be  filed or
 stoned on angle, like the edge of a chisel.

    The best work can be done when the crimping blade carries the cloth
just beyond the needle as each crimp or pleat  is formed.



                    HEMSTITCHING

    Fold  a  blotting paper  (or other  soft  paper), which can  be  readily
torn,  until you get a thickness corresponding  to the opening desired  in
the hemstitching; put one of the pieces of goods under the paper and the
other above, then place  all under the presser foot and sew through them
After being sewed, both  pieces will be doubled back and  forth  t<> crease
them well  exactly on  the  line  of  stitches.  Then  fold  all  four edges  in
the same  direction, and hold  firmly while you tear out  tin-  paper  (Rm­
edge of each or either piece may be cut and passed through the hcminci,
oi a row of stitchin     ■ can be pas ed Ion      ■ ide the h
edge  finished  off as you choose.


                                       23

SHIRKING





                       SHIRRING


    Shirring is done with the same attachment used tor ruffling, and direc­
tions for placing the attachment in position will be found under that head
ing.  Before placing  the  ruffler,  the separator blade should be removed
To do this, loosen the  little slotted set screw which  is at the front end of
the frame; drop the front end of the separator blade downward and draw
it forward. Remove the front shuttle slide and insert in  its place the >lnr-
ring plate.

   The object of using the shirring plate instead of the separator plate  n
the ruffler,  is to permit the shirring of work of any width. To produce the
work the goods should be inserted same as for plain ruffle, the pres>er bar
lowered and the stitching commenced.   It  is always best, however, to run a
small tape underneath the goods, this greatly strengthens the work  The
tape should be run through the guides  in the shirring plate

   The  fullness of the shirring  is controlled  in the same manner    ..   the
fullness of the  ruffle. The length of the stitch should be adjusted   t     ■ cor­
respond with the  fullness of the gather being produced

BRAIDING





                       BRAIDING


    Attach  the braider foot  to  the holder on  the presser bar instead  of
the regular sewing foot.


   Remove the front shuttle slide and insert in  its place the under hr   ler
plate.  Raise the presser bar  lifter, pass the end of the braid through the
slot, or groove,  in  the under braider  plate, draw  it through and pass   it
under the braider foot.


   Then place the stamped pattern under the foot and lower the   t      t mt
position  to  sew, guiding  the  cloth with  the  right hand and  holdin   the
braid with the  left hand to keep  it from twisting.




                                      27

Illustrated List of Parts
                         for the
            EX. B. T.
           (LONG SHUTTLE)
     Electric Sewing Machines

When ordering new parts, specify the part number and part name





                                   29

LIST OF ILLUSTRATED PARTS (Continued)

                                                                  Shipping
 Part No.      Description                                    Weight
           Motor Cover and Motor Shell Assembly

 NSC-23-R  Motor Cover (brush holder end) with NSC-25 bearing.
          RM-28 bearing spring, TOC-38 brush holders, TJ-41
             screws, and CFC-64 carbon brush screws (order  this
            motor cover if serial number is prior to 5B-41176)     .   ...    8 oz.
 NSC-23    Motor Cover (brush holder end) with NSC-25 bearing,
            and RM-28 bearing spring (order this motor cover  i’
                serial number  is after 5B-41175)----------    ...  ...            8 oz.
 NSC-25    Bearing with  oil wick and rawhide washer.  (Used  in
             both motor  covers)-----------------------------------------------  2 oz.
 RM-28     Bearing Spring (used in both motor covers)---------------  2 oz.

 TOC-38A  Brush Holder (2 used)  each....---------------------------------   2 oz.

 TJ-41      Brush Holder Retaining Screw (2 used) each----------- --  2 oz.
 27NS-42    Bearing Cap  (fits brush holder end cover)               2 oz.
 NSC-44    Motor Cover with NSC-25 Bearing and RM-28 bearing
            spring  ------------------ -------------------------------------------   8 oz.
27NS-47    Bearing Cap     ........                               .........            2 OZ.
NSC-70A   Motor  Shell                                              ..           .....               lib.




            Field Assembly

15NSC-48B Field Core with Coils, brown motor cord and core bush­
              ing,  115  volt------------------------------------ --- ---- ---------     1  lb.
            Specify any other voltage
NSC-46     Field Coil with  \1/^' line lead extension, 115-V           4 oz.
            Specify any other voltage--------------------   ---- ------
NSC-52     Field Coil with 134" line lead extension, 115-V              4 oz.
            Specify any other voltage
NS-60      Fibre Retaining Strip for Motor Cord                   2 oz.
10M-59A    Field                                                      2 oz, Clip
NSC-49     Field Core, only                                                                           1  lb.
15NS-84-B Brown Motor Cord                                             2 oz.
NSC-73    Cord  Bushing                                                                                                      .      ...                      2 oz.
                        Prices Quoted on Request

                                      35

HOW TO ORDER REPAIRS FOR
       THE EXPERT  B.  T.
      SEWING MACHINE

   Repairs  or  needles may be  obtained from  the
dealer who sold you the machine, or direct from
 the  manufacturer.  When  ordering  repair  parts,
always  give the name and number  of the  parts
•wanted as  well as  the number  of your machine
which will be found on the bed plate under the front
shuttle   slide.  When  ordering  needles,  always
specify that Eldredge F.  S. or Class “C” needles
are wanted and be sure to mention the thread size.
A table of correct sizes will be found on page 10.
            Prices Quoted on Request.