Sewing machines
Eldredge Improved Rotary B — User manual
User manual for Eldredge Improved Rotary B. 40 pages in English. Read the original PDF, download or print a copy without registration.
40 pagesEnglish48.4 MB PDF
Loading your manual…Open PDF directly
Document details
- Brand
- Eldredge
- Model / document
- Eldredge Improved Rotary B
- Document type
- User manual
- Language
- English
- Pages
- 40
- File size
- 48.4 MB
- Category
- Sewing machines
- Document date
- Not specified in catalog
Search available document text
Find a term, then jump to its page in the original PDF. Image-only pages may not be searchable; check the PDF for exact wording and diagrams.
Page 3 · Read text
Helpful Suggestions
Know the machine thoroughly. become acquainted with the parts,
call every part by its name. See large illustration, pages 20 and 21.
There are only two places to oil the motor. They are plainly evident,
one oil hole above each armature shaft bearing. Just a drop of oil a day
is sufficient if the machine is used constantly. A drop once a week where
it is used occasionally, as in the home, will assure perfect running and
satisfactory results.
Thread the machine as shown in Figure 15, page 13.
Thread the bobbin case as shown in Figure 12, page 10. Do not
allow dust or dirt to collect under bobbin case spring.
Do not allow presser foot to come in contact with feed when machine
is running. Always have a piece of cloth between them.
Read motor lesson on page 4.
Know your set of attachments.
Do not change any of the adjustments. The machine was perfectly
adjusted at the factory.
Should you find it necessary to have the head of the machine repaired,
get in touch with the firm that_sold you the machine. Arrangements can
then be made to return the head to the factory where expert attention will
,be given it. ’
A full set of attachments comes with this machine The lessons given
in the Instruction Book will show you the best use for each attachment.View original page 3Page 4 · Read text
General Instructions wasmumnmuurm
Before leaving the factory every machine has been carefully adjusted
4'- and minutely inspected, its sewing qualities having been tested on all kinds '
of work, and found perfect in every respect. .
Before commencing to sew be certain to oil and clean machine ac—
cording to instructions.
After using the machine, always see that it is well cleaned before put-
ting it away.
Do not tamper with the adjustments of the machine; serious trouble
is almost sure to result from any unnecessary meddling with the working
parts.
Do not attempt to use the attachments until you can manage the
machine wrth ease on plain sewmg.
In sewing where special elasticity is required, as on bias scams, or
very elastic material, hold the work back slightly, to keep the cloth
stretched while being sewed.
Machine not working properly generally is caused by the following:
The thread being too coarse or fine for the needle, the needle being bent
or blunted; poor thread. See that the needle is perfectly straight and that
it is pushed up as far as it will go into the needle bar. It should pass
nearly through the center of the needle plate hole when properly set.
Should the machine miss stitches in running off from a thick seam,
hold the cloth back slightly to keep it straight and to prevent its rising
up with the needle. In using slack, twisted, or uneven silk, should it be-
come frayed or roughened, the needle is too fine. or has a hook upon its
1 point caused by striking the needle plate.
To turn a corner. Stop the machine with the needle in the cloth, after
it has been down and come partly up. Then lift the presser foot and turn
the work in the direction desired, using the needle as a pivot.
The presser foot must never be left down on the feed when the
machine is running unless there is cloth between, as the sharp teeth of
the feed will injure the bottom of the presser foot.
When ordering needles, or parts, or supplies of any kind for this
machine, always give the full name and number of the machine. This
number will be found stamped on bed plate to the left side of the stitch
regulator.
3View original page 4Page 5 · Read text
_........
._,.-
...,-
Figure 1
The motor voltage is shown on the etched plate attached to motor.
The motor is universal and will operate with equal success on any current
from 105 to 120 D. C. or A. C., 25 to 60 cycles. Be sure your powersupply
is correct, then proceed.
FIRST. Attach cord from lamp socket to junction block under motor.
This is the cord with the socket that is smooth, it fits into the junction
block socket that has two connection prongs extending from it.
SECOND. Attach cord from foot control. This plug has the two
prongs which fit into the recessed holes in junction block.
HIRD. Turn on the electric switch to apply power to motor. Place
foot control in convenient position. Pressure on foot pedal will start the
machine. If your machine is of the cabinet type equipped with knee con-
trol slight pressure by the knee on the controller lever will start the
machine.
CAUTION. Be sure you have a piece of goods between presser foot
and feed. To operate machine without cloth under presser foot will cause
serious injury to machine.View original page 5Page 7 · Read text
Figure 6
OILING THE MACHINE
To secure satisfactory service from your machine and to have it
wear well it must be oiled thoroughly occasionally. If the machine is
in continuous use, it should be oiled every day. Used moderately, only
occasionally is oiling necessary. In the above illustration (Figure 6)
all the places you must oil are shown. One drop of oil at each point is
sufficient.
if the machine drags. runs heavily or makes undue noise. use a
little kerosene in all oiling places, run the machine rapidly for a few
minutes, wipe clean and then oil with a good grade of sewing machine
oil.
Do not use a cheap, nor a heavy oil. It will gum the machine and
will not lubricate the parts. After thoroughly oiling the machine, sew
for a yard or two on a piece of waste material before starting on regular
work. This will prevent any oily thread from being worked in.
Detailed instructions for oiling essential parts are given on pages 7
and 8. Be sure to read these directions also.
6View original page 7Page 8 · Read text
OILING THE MACHINE (Continued)
OILING FACE PLATE PARTS
See Figure 7
V To remove the face plate remove thumb
screw which holds plate to arm of machine.
Oil parts marked by letter (0) in Fig. 7.
being sure not to overlook any of them. Oil
freely but not too liberally. otherwise the oil
will drip down and soil the goods. After oil—
ing wipe up superfluous oil and replace face
plate. Oil the machine every day you use it.
Figure 7
OILING THE HOOK RACE
See Figure 8
The accompanying illustration
shows the bobbin case cover open
to permit oiling of the hook race.
full directions for the same being
p‘ given on the following page. After
_ oiling these parts be sure and close
Figure 8 the bobbin case cover up tight.
_ If Bobbin Case_Cover works loose and will not stay tightly closed,
insert screw driver in slot in cover (see Fig. 8—page 7) and expand it
sufiictently to cause a tight fit.
«a.View original page 8Page 9 · Read text
OILING THE MACHINE (Continued)
See Figure 9
Figure 9
The above is a full size view of the hook race showing the place [or
oiling, the same being indicated by an arrow and the following: “Oil 4."
A (Iron of oil at this point will suffice. Oil the machine every day you
use it.
HOOK PUlNlRit
THE HOOK POINT
The Hook Guard
The hook guard is attached to the hook with two screws and the
point of the guard moves in the same direction as the point of the hook
on the outside of same. This guard throws the thread of the bobbin out-
stde of the line of the point of the hook, obviating the possibility of the
thread becoming tangled and stopping the machine. being also exceedingly
useful in assisting the machine to do excellent work on all classes of goods
and with any thickness of thread. from 150 to 20 including also silk thread.
8View original page 9Page 10 · Read text
T0 WIND THE BOBBIN
. Figure 10
Care should be exercised in winding bobbin to have the thread on the
bobbin evenly and smoothly.
To wind bobbin. first throw machine out of gear. This is done by
turning knurled brake button one quarter turn towards you. By turning
balance wheel with hand you can now see if machine is free and out of
gear. Place empty bobbin mi bobbin winder spindle and raise bobbin
winder to position as illustrated above (Fig. 10). Then place spool of
thread on spool pin. Lead the thread thru the guide just below the spool
(Letter A). then down and thru guide next to stitch regulator (Letter B) then
up and wind once or twice around empty bobbin. Be sure bobbin is tight
on Spindle and that the bobbin winder rubber pulley is in contact with the
chrome plated surface of the balance wheel. Now start the. motor and
wind the bobbin. Do not wind the bobbin too full. An overloaded bobbin
does not work properly. v
\Vhen thru winding bobbins. break contact of bobbin winder pulley by
pulling frame towards you. Put machine into gear by turning knurled
brake button one quarter turn away from you.
9.."a"”Wme
E.View original page 10Page 11 · Read text
REMOVING THE BOBBIN CASE
Figure 11
With the left hand turn the bobbin case cover to the left and back as
far as it will go (see Fig. 8. page 7). Then grasp the bobbin case with
the thumb and finger of the left hand as seen in accompanying illustrations
and remove it from the hook.
THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE
Figure 12 Penn
Place the bobbin in the case as shown in accompanying cut (be sure
that the thread runs in the direction shown in cut); hold the bobbin case
in the left hand. With the right hand draw the thread in slit in bobbin
case at “A”, then draw the thread under the spring and up through the
forked ends of the spring between “C” and “D.”
10View original page 11Page 14 · Read text
r
.—Ml‘xfimvral..,m
...-
Figure 15
To thread the machine, place the spool on the spool pin, then carry
thread into the little slot between the discs (2), pass the thread on the side fun-w“ toward you between the discs, but be careful not to wrap it around them.
Then straight down and once around the tension pulley (3), thence down
under the auxiliary (4), up through the take-up (5), down under the thread
guide (6). There is an opening in this guide at the left side to allow“ the
thread to enter it. Then through the needle bar thread guide (7), and
finallyhthrough the eye of the needle (8), threading the needle from left to rig t...__e.-._.l..\, 13View original page 14Page 16 · Read text
THE AUTOMATIC TENSION
Is a most important feature of this machine, as it is entirely self—acting,
requiring no attention or skill on the part of the operator in adjusting the
tension on either the upper or low er threads. no matter what the nature
of the fabric may be, or What size or kind of thread is used. The machine,
before being sent out, is tested at the factory on a very wide range of
thread and fabric and under all ordinary conditions and throughout a very
wide range of work. Absolutely no adjustment of the tensions is required
whatsoever for such work.
If for manufacturing or special work of any sort it is desirable to alter
the tensions, the lower tension can be increased or diminished by adjusting
the screw (B) which holds the tension spring on the bobbin case (Figure
12, page 10). Turn this screw to the right to increase tension, to the left
to diminish.
The upper tension can be adjusted in the following manner:
to increase the tension, turn the tension disc (marked “T" Fig. 15, page 13)
toward you; to decrease it turn the disc from you. When the desired
tension is obtained, it will remain as set. This adjustment is made with
the fingers, no screw driver is necessary.
CAUTION
Do not under any circumstances tamper \\ 1th or turn the stationary
slotted screw on which the tension disc “T” (Fig. 15) turns. To do so
will break it and destroy the tension. If any adjustment of the automatic
tension is necessary turn the disc “T”—in accordance with the instruc-
tions on this page. Never under any circumstances oil the tension.
REMOVING THE WORK
To remove the work stop the machine with the needle out of the goods
and with the take-up lever at its highest point. This is important. Raise
the presser foot with the presser bar lifter located at the back of the face
plate. After this is done the Automatic Tension release comes into action
and releases all tension on the upper thread. \Vith the take-up standing at
the highest point and with the presser foot raised. the needle is also raised
so that the eye of it is above the presser foot. As the machine stands in
this position, draw the work backward away from the presser foot and then
bring both threads over from the back and cut them with the blade of the
thread cutter which fits into the presser bar.
TO RAISE THE FEED
First remove screw holding needle plate in position and take out needle
plate. Directly under the needle plate is a small screw in the center of
the feed bar. Turn this screw to the right sufficiently to raise the feed to
the desired position. The feed is at the proper height when it is at its
highest point and the full length of the teeth Show above the needle plate.
The numbers on the index plate from 1
to 0 indicate long and short stitches. By
moving the indicator from you to number (1)
the machine will sew six stitches to the
inch, while when moved towards you to /;' ’
number (0) it will sew 34 stitches to the 'Q“‘“\“\‘“&\ \ . . . S“ m‘émkxinch. You may sew any desired length stitch
by moving indicator to the point on scale to
suit the length of stitch wanted. The in-
dicator automatically locks itself at all
points, doing away with screws and levers
to fasten it. Figure 18 i
15View original page 16Page 17 · Read text
TO THOROUGHLY CLEAN MACHINE
b.»
Figure 19
The above is an underview of your machine. It shows the feed
mechanism and the simplicity of the construction which causes the
machine to run so easily and quietly.
To tilt the head back as shown in illustration, press down on bed plate
catch release (see large illustration, pages 20 and 21.)
To thoroughly clean machine. use kerosene on points shown above.
Run the machine rapidly for a short time, then oil with a good grade of
machine oil. Follow same procedure as given on page 6.
Should it become necessary to remove the sewing head from the cabi-
net, you will observe that there are two small set screws on the under-
side of the cast iron bed plate of the sewing head that hold the hinges
in place. Loosen these screws by turning four or five turns to the left,
after which, by lifting the head upward it will disengage from the hinges.
It is unnecessary to remove the wood screws from the cabinet in order to
take the sewing head off.
16View original page 17Page 18 · Read text
HOW TO USE THE ATTACHMENTS
The following pages take up the use of your set of attachments. \\'ith
a little practice you should soon be doing the fancy sewing formerly sent
to an experienced seamstress. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE THE
ATTACHMENTS UNTIL YOU ARE FAMILIAR WITH THE
MACHINE, AND CAN DO PLAIN SEWING SUCCESSFULLY.
NARROW HEMMING
NARROW HEMMING
Remove the presser foot and insert in its place the foot hemmer.
Raise the presser bar lifter to the right, clip off the right hand cor-
ner of the cloth and turn up the edge about one-quarter of an inch,
so as to enable it to pass easily into the scroll of the hemmer, push
it forward to the needle, let the hemmer down and start the machine,
gently holding back on the work to keep it smooth and allowing the edge
of the goods to pass between the thumb and forefinger of the right
hand while it is being hemmed, keeping the goods rolled up on the edge
as it passes into the hemmer. The latter should be kept just full. If
too much cloth passes in, it will make a rough and clumsy hem, or the
goods will be crowded out of the hemmer. If too little, the raw edge
will not be turned in.
In hemming a curve on flannel or very elastic goods, draw gently
on the edge being hemmed, resisting the feed slightly, and guide the
work carefully. The stitch may be made close to the edge, or away
from it by loosening the screw at the back of the attachment holder
and swinging the hemmer slightly to the right or left.
17View original page 18Page 19 · Read text
FELLING
FELLING
The narrow hemmer and feller are the same. If the hammer is
attached it can be used in place of the presser foot in running up a
seam. Sew together two pieces of cloth with the under edge project-
ing between one-eighth and one-quarter of an inch beyond the upper
edge, then trim the edges if necessary, leaving enough goods between
the row of stitching and the edges to fill the hemmer and turn it nicely,
open the work flat, wrong side up, and trim the corner of the same
slightly, then push the goods into the feller until the needle is reached.
Lower the feller on the feed and start the machine. The feed will carry
the seam through without assistance, making a complete fell from the
beginning. There is no necessity of touching the goods at all, but just
as well to keep them smoothed out nice and flat.
The positive double feed makes this variety of work a special fea-
ture of this machine.
18
L-View original page 19Page 22 · Read text
TUCKER
TUCKER
Slip the fork of the tucker into the attachment holder on the presser
bar, and with the screw fasten it down firmly, being careful to have
the needle go through the needle hole in the tucker frame. The tuck
marker is operated by the neck of the needle clamp striking in the
tuck lever.
The rear scale of the tucker indicates the width of the tucks to be
made, and the front scale indicates the distance between the different
tucks.
To have tucks that just meet, set rear scale at Figure “l” and
front scale at Figure “2,” etc. To have tucks that overlap, set the front
scale at a lower figure than the back and to have tucks separated, set
the front scale at a higher figure than the back.
Fold the cloth at the place where the first tuck is desired. and place
it under the tucker lever and the presser foot, with the folded edge to
the right and against the upright guide of the tucker. The tucker lever
and creaser mark the cloth for the next tuck, and after the first tuck
is completed the cloth should be folded along this mark and placed as
before, and so on.
22View original page 22Page 23 · Read text
WIDE HEMMING
WIDE HEMMING
With each machine is furnished four hemmers of assorted widths.
They are called foot hemmers because they are fastened to the presser
bar of the machine, the same as the regular sewing foot. Select the
width of hemmer that you desire to use, and attach it to the machine
as shown above. You will readily see that it can be adjusted to the
right or left a little, so as to stitch as close to the edge of the hem as
desired, by loosening the set screw of the attachment holder and
swinging the hemmer to desired position. Take the cloth in both hands,
the right hand in front of the hemmer, and the left, behind. Insert
the edge of the goods in the scroll of the hemmer and draw it back and
forth a few times, while gradually feeding the cloth into the hemmer,
so as to fill the scroll completely. When you have the hemmer full,
draw the cloth back toward you to start the hem near the end. Let
down the presser foot and proceed as in narrow hemming.
23View original page 23Page 24 · Read text
BINDING
BINDING
Remove the presser foot from the machine and attach the binder in
its place. The binder is adjustable sidewise, to bring the stitching prop-
erly close to the edge of binding. The little downward projecting lug
serves as a guide to prevent the narrow widths of binding from riding out
under the foot toward!» the right.
With this new multiple binder a garment can now be piped and bound
in one single stitching. Even two bindings of contrasting color can be
entered into their correct size slots for piping, and enclosed in a still nar-
rower binding, giving the effect of a double reversible piping. The nar-
rowest width should be entered into its slot first and drawn through to
the needle, then followed by the others.
The Multiple Slot Binder will carry binding of six different widths
single fold commercial bindings sizes 1, 2, 3, 4, 3, and 6. They are fed
respectively through the five slots in the binder scroll, beginning with
the smallest. Sizes 5 and 6 are fed through slot No. 5. The single fold
commercial binding for sale in department stores must be used. In addi-
tion, it will carry the familiar 15/16 inch bias cut binding which every
woman has always used, making it herself with the aid of the scissors
gauge, from self material or otherwise. The 15/16 bias cut binding is
entered through the open mouth of the scroll.
Finer fabrics call for the narrower bindings. The binding should be
entered into the slot or scroll, depending on the size binding used, and
passed through until the end comes under the needle. then the material
to be bound is placed between the folds of the scroll. next lower the binder,
then start the machine. Feed the binding with the right hand and guide
the goods with the left, being careful to keep the goods well between the
scroll and to keep the binding from becoming twistedt
24View original page 24Page 25 · Read text
.c,,....L............
Directions for Using the Edge-Stitcher
“22W
The Edge-Stitching Attachment is fastened to the. machine in the
same manner as the Presser—foot. The different slots which are numbered
from 1 to 5 in the above illustration serve as guides for sewmg together
laces, insertions, embroideries, sewing in p051tion folded or hemmed edges,
bias-folded material or piping.
Slots No. 1 and 4 are used for sewing lace insertions, lace and em-
broidery or lace and tucking strips together.
When a wide piping is desired the piping is inserted in slot No. 3
and the edge to be piped in slot No. 4. If a narrow' piping is desired the
piping is inserted in slot No. 3 and the edge to be piped in slot No. 2.
Slot No. 5 may be used as a guide for French seaming.
When using folded tape to finish underwear, children’s clothes, aprons,
etc., the tape is placed in slot No. 1 and the garment in slot No. 5.
This attachment is very useful in trimming such articles of clothing
as aprons, women’s and children’s dresses and underwear, sh1rtwaists, silk
blouses, boys’ rompers and suits, or for articles for household decoration
such as fine bureau scarfs and thin curtains, baby carriage covers and
doilies.
Very beautiful effects may be obtained in yokes, guimpes, sleeves,
collar and cuff sets, vestees, fichus, lace waists, cam1soles,_etc., by joining
rows of lace insertion, alternate rows of lace and embroidery 1nsertions,
or alternate rows of tucking and lace insertion.
The folded tape, which may be purchased in any department store in
all colors, qualities and widths, is indispensable to use with this Attach-
ment. The folded piping, which also may be purchased ready turned, will
exactly fit the piping slot in this attachment.
The Edge-Stitcher is adjustable for the stitching in relation to the
~ edge of the garment, lace, etc., by means of the lug in the side. This
makes it possible to stitch any material exactly on the edge.,,‘..
..-Awuu. 25
”—
n-u—A‘View original page 25Page 27 · Read text
RUFFLING OR GATHERING
This Style Ruffler Is Standard Equipment With Your Machine
RUFFLING OR GATHERING
In attaching the ruffler, raise the needle to its highest point, re—
move the presser foot by loosening the milled edge nut of the attach-
ment holder. Raise the operating arm of the ruffler and place the jaw
astride the stem of the needle clamp, raise the ruffler and place the jaws
of the frame into the attachment holder in the same manner as the
presser foot, then screw the milled edge nut down firmly, taking pains
to set the ruffler so that the needle will pass through the center of
the needle hole.
The fullness of the gathers is controlled by the adjusting screw
in the fulcrum of the operating lever; turning this screw to the right de-
creases the fullness of the gathers, to the left increases the fullness.
It is always best to regulate the length of stitch to correspond with the
fullness of the gathers, especially when making scant gathers be sure
to have the stitch adjusted short.
For plain or single ruffling, insert the edge of the cloth to be
ruffled, between the upper and under plates of the ruffler, until the edge
of the cloth is under the needle. then start the machine and feed the
goods straight through.
For making ruffling on a band, insert the band in the slots of the
front of the ruffler and carry the band under the separator blade and
”w next to the feed on the machine, then place the cloth to be ruffled the
same as for a plain ruffle.
27View original page 27Page 29 · Read text
RUFFLING BETWEEN BANDS
As For Making Aprons
Place the lower band in the ruffler, having the right side of the
goods up; place the apron into the ruffler gauge, then place the top band
over or on top of the ruffler gauge and under the ruffler foot. This
operation will blind stitch the band on each side of the apron.
RUFFLING AND SEWING IN PIPING
It is most convenient to do this work from the upper side, although
it can be done from the lower also, by using the shirring plate. Place
the goods for the ruffle in the ruffler the same as for plain ruffling,
then insert the piping into the gauge nearest the ruffle gauge, drawing
it through under the foot, insert the folded edge of the band into the
gauge nearest the needle, drawing it also under the foot. You will notice
v that the band and piping gauge is made adjustable to the right or left,
LilL so you may stitch as close to the edge as desired.
—1
REMARKS
Should the crimping blade need to be sharpened, never file or grind
it from the bottom side, but always from the top. It should be filed
or stoned on angle, like the edge of a chisel.
The best work can be done when the crimping blade carries the
cloth just beyond the needle as each crimp or pleat is formed.
HEMSTITCHING
Fold 9. blotting paper (or other soft paper), which can be readily
torn, until you get a thickness corresponding to the opening desired in
the hemstitching; put one of the pieces of goods under the paper and
wother above, then place all under the presser foot and sew through
3pm. After being sewed, both pieces will be doubled back and forth
o‘crease them well exactly on the line of stitches. Then fold all four
edges in the same direction, and hold firmly While you tear out the
paper. One edge of each or either piece may be cut and passed through
the hemmer, or a row of stitching can be passed longside the hemstitch
and the double edge finished off as you choose.
29View original page 29Page 30 · Read text
PUFFING
l’UFFING
All puffing is done with the ruffler. which attachment should be
put in position on the machine as instructed under the head of ruffling.
To make puffing, insert the band into the gauge or slot in the separator
plate below the crimper plate, the same as for ruffling on a band, place
the cloth to be puffed between the plates, the same as for a single
ruffle, then proceed and gather one side, then reverse the goods, com-
mencing at the opposite end and opposite edge, using a band for the
new edge same as the first one. This-stitches the band on both sides
of the ruffle, and makes a handsome piece of puffing. The operation
may be repeated as many times as required. are
47 For scalloping, muslin cut lengthwise of the cloth and one,
wide is required; fold or double this strip thus producing a folded 15.1.
one-half inch in width, insert the cloth or band to which this sip)
loping is to be attached in the same manner as for puffing. Se. tne
feed of the machine to produce a long stitch and adjust the ruffler
very full so as to form pleats, then start sewing and swing the folded
strip from side to side, keeping time with the machine; if the scalloping
is made about 8 or 9 pleats to each scallop it is a nice size.
30View original page 30Related documents and language editions
EldredgePDF
Eldredge
User manual
20 pages · EnglishRead →
EldredgePDF
Eldredge B Long-Shuttle
User manual
44 pages · EnglishRead →
EldredgePDF
Eldredge Two-Spool (16)
User manual
13 pages · EnglishRead →
EldredgePDF
Eldredge Two-Spool (25)
User manual
15 pages · EnglishRead →
Montgomery WardPDF
Montgomery Ward Damascus Vibrating Shuttle
User manual
14 pages · EnglishRead →
NationalPDF
National Regal Paveway Electric
User manual
1 pages · EnglishRead →
Western ElectricPDF
Western Electric Number 2 Portable
User manual
44 pages · EnglishRead →
From the ISMACS International. Original publisher and archive notices are retained.
Check the model and edition against your equipment.
PDF verified 2026-10-11.