Sewing machines
Sears Burdick — User manual
User manual for Sears Burdick. 13 pages in English. Read the original PDF, download or print a copy without registration.
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- Brand
- Sears
- Model / document
- Sears Burdick
- Document type
- User manual
- Language
- English
- Pages
- 13
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- 3.4 MB
- Category
- Sewing machines
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Page 1 · Read text
144449900
DIRECTIONS
FOR USING THE
NE!"'
SILENT
AND LIGHT RUNNING
BURDICK
Sewing • Machine;
SEARS FOEBUCK
Cheapest Supply House on Earth
78-96 FULTON ST.
73-87 N. DESPLAINES ST. CHICAGO, ILL.13-31 WAYMAN ST.
WE SELL EVERYTHING. OUR 1286-PAGE CATALOGUE QUOTES THE
YOU FROM PAYING TOO MUCH TO YOUR STOREKEEPER AT HOME
PARTLY PAY POSTAGE, AND WE WILL MAN
IF 18 EN ABDRESS.View original page 1Page 2 · Read text
48209
NIAH
Certificate of Guaranty.
Certificate No. 241536
Chis is to Certify, that the
(the number and make of which have been regis-
tered) is guaranteed as represented and with fair
C usage we hereby bargain and agree to make good
any defect in material or workmanship for a
period of twenty years..
When referring to this Guaranty, please do
not fail to state Certificate Number.
Dated at Chicago, this day of
A. D. 190-
Catalogue No..
SEARS ROEBUCK N° CONG
...CHEAPEST SUPPLY HOUSE ON EARTH...
78-96 FULTON -87 N. DESP CHICAGO, ILL.View original page 2Page 3 · Read text
GENERAL DIRECTIONS. FOR: BEGINNERS. B7
Every machine before leaving the factory has been carefally adjusted If you are not accustomed to the use of a'sewing machine or find it
and minutely inspected, and its sewing qualities have been tested on every difficult to get a regular and even motion to the treadle, it should be
class of work and found perfect in every respect. learned by running the machine without threading it [up, withfthe shut
Before the machine is used, care should be taken to clean and oil it tle out and the presser foot raised offIthe feed. First|"loosen the hand
thoroughly, according to instructions; but do not tamper with the ad-
wheel by turning the friction nut B (see eut on page 8) away from youe
justments of the machine until you fully understand how to handle it.
same as is done to use the bobbin winder, so the hand wheel will revolv
Avoid unnecessary meddling with the working parts or adjustments at
all times, as serious trouble may result from tampering with.the machine. freely on the shaft and without running the sewing mechanism. Place your feet on the treadle with the instep directly over the center and turn Do not allow tramp repairers or incompetent parties to attempt to the hand wheel toward you with the right hand, allowing the feet torepair the machine. move back and forth on the rocking treadle with the motion produced Careful attention to the instructions in the book and a little practice and continue this motion by pressing on the treadle alternately with the will soon enable the learner to operate the machine and all the attach-
ments. heels and toes until an easy and steady motion is obtained. After be-
coming entirely familiar with the treadle movement in this way, then Practice on strips of cloth and do not attempt to do practical sewing
connect the hand wheel with the machine by turning the friction nut B
until you have learned to guide the work properly and produce an even
toward you. Then raise the presser foot with the presser lifter at the
motion in running.
back of the face plate, start the hand wheel toward you and continue the
Do not try to use the attachments until you are thoroughly familiar
motion with the feet as already learned. When you are proficient in this
with plain sewing and can handle the machine easily. If a machine gives
motion put a piece of cloth between the feed and the presser foot, drop
trouble it will almost invariably result from one of the following causes:
the lifter so as to let the presser foot down on the cloth and operate the
Improper setting of the needle, a crooked or blunt needle, poor thread, or
machine in this way without threading it up until you have learned to the needle not being the right size for the thread used.
guide the material and make a straight seam. Be sure to read all the instructions carefully and do not consider it a
Do not attempt to do any sewing until you have become proficient in
waste of time, even if you have used pther machines.
When ordering needles, shuttles, or parts of any kind, always give the running the machine by the treadle and can start the machine readily
plate number of machine, which will be found stamped on top of the without turning the wheel in the wrong direction. Always remember
that the top of the hand wheel should turn toward the operator.front slide, directly in front of the needle.
Never run the machine when it is threaded up unless there is cloth BREAKING THE UPPER THREAD.
This may be caused byimproper threading of the machine; the
under the presser foot. If you do the thread will snarl and tangle and
upper tension being too tight; the needle being too small for the thread;
may break the needle.
the needle being set the wrong side out, or set crooked; the needle bein ?
Do not run the machine with the presser foot resting on the feed and
set too high, or by a sharp edge on the shuttle, or the needle being to ›
no cloth between, or the sharp teeth of the feed will injure the foot and
large for the hole in the throat plate.
the feed teeth will be dulled.
BREAKING THE LOWER THREAD.
Never run the machine with either of the race covers open, except to
This may be caused by the shuttle being wrongly threaded; theturn the wheel very slowly by hand, or the shuttle will catch and cause
tension being too tight; the bobbin being wound too full, so it will netserious damage.
revolve freely; a rough or sharp place on the edge on the shuttle at the
Do not try to help the feed by pulling the work, lest you bend or break
heel, or by failing to keep the shuttle race clean.the needle. The machine will feed without assistance.
Do not allow lint or dust to accumulate inside the shuttle, nor under CAUSE OF A MACHINE MISSING STITCHES.
Should there at any time be skipped or long stitches at intervals itthe shuttle tension spring. Any substance inside the shuttle will prevent is owing to the needle. being set too low (or too high in very heavy sew-
the bobbin revolving freely, and anything under the spring will interfere
with a perfect tension. smallortoritsthehavingthe beinbecomeuse,bentand awaysometimes,from thetoshuttle,she polet of the sheil. too
When using very fine needles, and also when o turns corner. crod cue macule Wild bad needle at east nie
down in the goods, raise thepresser foot by means of the lifter at the stitchingcoming accidentallyheavy work,blunted.be sure that the points of the needles arepe fect,
and on a line with the center of the direction of the needle, ard not
blunted or turned over. After using the machine always clean it well before putting it away.View original page 3Page 4 · Read text
OIC
TO OIL THE MACHINE.
The thorough oiling of a sewing machine is of the utmost importance
as it insures ease of motion and prevents premature wear. Every point
on the head of the machine where oil should be applied is indicated on
the cut on page 5 by the word "oil" with dotted lines showing TO THREAD THE MACHINE.
the exact spot for oiling. Oil holes will be found for each bearing which (SEE CUT ABOVE.)
cannot be reached for direct application of oil. Before the machine leaves the factory it has been carefully inspected
To oil the parts inside the head: Raise the needle bar to its highest point, and tested with various sizes of thread from No. 40 linen to No. 150 cotton
then put one drop of oil on each side of the needle bar on top of the ma- and found to work perfectly on all kinds of goods. The machine is sent
chine, and one drop in each of the oil holes in the head as shown on the cut. out properly threaded and care should be taken to observe how it is
To oil the works underneath the bed plate: Throw off the belt and turn back threaded when received. It may, however, become unthreaded in trans-
the head on its hinges, then apply a drop of oil on each bearing marked portation, in which case the operator should carefully observe the follow-
on eut above. ing directions;
To oil the stand: The journal of the balance wheel below the table, the Raise the needle bar to its highest point.
bearing at each end of the pitman and the bearings of the treadle on Place the spool of thread on the spool pin on top of arm as shown in
each side, are the five points on the stand which require regular oiling. cut; draw the thread through the hook A above the tension, then down
After oiling run the machine a few moments to distribute the oil and between the tension disks B and up through the hook C at the left of the
then wipe carefully. Be sure every part is clean before commencing to sew. tension; then through the take-up eye D, then back of the staple E on
If the machine runs hard it must be due to lack of proper oiling of the bottom of the face plate, drawing the thread forward so it will slip
some bearings. Should the machine become gummed from long standing under the staple on the back side; then through the hook in the needle
or poor oil, apply kerosene or benzine to all the bearings to remove the yoke F; then through the eye of the needle.
gum, then run the machine rapidly, wipe clean and oil thoroughly with Leave the end of the thread extending from the needle about three
good sewing machine oil before beginning to sew. inches long.View original page 4Page 5 · Read text
TO THREAD THE SHUTTLE.
FIG. 3
TO SET THE NEEDLE.
Raise the needle bar to its highest point and loosen the nut on the
needle yoke. Hold the needle between the thumb and finger of the left
Hold the shuttle in the left hand with the point of the shuttle hand and pass the shank of the needle up through the hole in the needle
toward the operator. Drop the bobbin into the open end of the shuttle, yoke as far as it will go, with the flat side of the shank toward the needle
turning the bobbin so that the thread will draw from the under side of bar. Then secure the needle firmly by the nut on the needle yoke. It linen
the bobbin when sewing, then draw the thread toward you into the open or silk thread, or very coarse cotton, is to be used in sewing, the needle may be set a little
slot in the shuttle marked B, at the same time pressing a finger against lower than directed, so that the end of the shank of the needle does not quite
the end of the bobbin so it will not turn. Continue drawing the thread come up to the stop in the needle bar.
through the slot toward the point of the shuttle until it is foreed under
the point A on the shuttle tension spring. The shuttle is then ready for use. TO AVOID BREAKING NEEDLES.
TO ADJUST THE SHUTTLE TENSION. When a needle is broken it is, in nearly every case, the fault of the
operator, and caused by pulling the work, so that the needle strikes
The shuttle tension is adjusted by means of the screw C, using the the throat plate, when it is bound to break.A needle may also be
small shuttle screwdriver. Turn the screw to the right to tighten the broken by sewing heavy seams or very thick goods without having
tension and to the left to loosen the tension on the thread. When the the pressure on the presser foot as heavy as it should be for such work.
machine leaves the factory the tension in the shuttle has been set exactly To increase the pressure on the goods turn the presser nut on top of the right for all ordinary work and the kinds of thread generally used.It presser bar to the right. To decrease the pressure, for light work, turn
therefore needs no alteration. The bore of the shuttle should be kept the presser nut to the left. A blunt needle or one with a hooked point
clean and clear of lint so the bobbin can revolve freely and so the end of will cause trouble and prevent good work.
the bobbin does not project outside the shuttle.
TO RECULATE THE LENCTH OF STITCH. TO PLACE SHUTTLE IN THE MACHINE.
The stitch regulator is in front of the base of the arm, directly under
Draw out the front race cover or slide and place the shuttle in the the bobbin winder. On the stitch regulator plate is a scale of numbers
shuttle carrier with the point of the shuttle toward the operator and the which indicate the length of stitch. These numbers-No. 7, No. 10, No. spring on top, then close the slide. When using some of the attach-
16 and No. 24- show the number of stitches to the inch. To obtain the ments it will sometimes be found more convenient to withdraw the back
length of stitch desired, loosen the thumb nut by turning it to the leftrace cover and remove or replace the shuttle when the carrier is at the
and set the indicator with the pointer at the proper number. No. 24back end of the race.
gives the shortest stitch and No. 7 the longest. You can vary the stitches
TO CLEAN THE SHUTTLE RACE. from the scale by setting the pointer between the numbers. Be sure to
fasten the nut tightly after setting the indicator. To turn the stitch off The face of the shuttle race must be kept perfectly clean and entirely
entirely, set the pointer at 0. free from dust or gum. It should be cleaned frequently by rubbing with
a piece of cloth having a drop of oil on it, then wipe it clean with a soft
dry cloth. If the shuttle race becomes very gummy, first clean it
thoroughly with a cloth saturated with benzine or kerosene, afterward
using an oiled cloth and then a dry clean cloth as above explained.
Breaking of thread and skipping of stitches are often caused by failure to
keep the shuttle race clean.View original page 5Page 6 · Read text
TO RECULATE THE PRESSURE.
The amount of pressure on the work is regulated by means of the
thumb nut on top of the presser bar.Turn this nut to the right to in-
crease the pressure and to the left to decrease the pressure. In sewing
heavy or hard fabrics a heavier pressure is required than for light goods.
A lack of suficient pressure on the work will sometimes cause skipping
of stitches because the presser foot does not hold the goods firmly on
the throat plate when the stitch is down.
TO COMMENCE TO SEW.
The machine having been properly threaded above and below as ex-
plained in the preceding directions raise the presser bar and raise the
needle to its highest point and the machine is ready for sewing. Place
the goods under the presser foot with the needle directly over the point
where you desire to commence stitching. Lower the presser bar by drop-
ping the lifter at the back of the face plate.Then start the machine by
turning the hand wheel toward you.
TO REMOVE THE WORK FROM THE MACHINE.
Stop the machine with the needie at its highest point, and raise the
presser foot by means of the lifter. Press against the tension release
with the left thumb and with the right hand draw the work directly
TO WIND BOBBINS. back from under the needle. Then draw the threads over the thread
cutter on the back side of the presser bar and the work is free.
TO TIGHTEN THE BELT.
The leather belt which transmits power from the balance wheel on
the stand to the hand wheel on the head should always be tight enough
not to slip on the pulley. It should not be too tight or it will cause the
machine to run hard.If the belt is too loose it should be made shorter.
Unfasten the belt hook and cut off squarely about one-half inch from one
end of the belt. Punch a hole for the hook in the end that has been cut
and couple the belt.
TO TAKE OFF THE PRESSER FOOT.
Raise the needle bar to its highest point, loosen the nut just above
the presser foot by turning it to the left until the foot is free. It can
then be drawn off toward the operator.View original page 6Page 7 · Read text
-11—
THE TENSIONS. SIZES OF NEEDLES AND THREAD.
The object to be attained is to have the stitch alike on both sides of
Size of CLASS OF WORK TO SEW
the fabric. This is accomplished by the tensions, or strain upon both Size of Cotton, Linen or
threads. The tension upon both threads should be as nearly alike as
Very thin Muslin, Cambrics, Linen, etc. 100 to 900 Cotton possible, and tight enough only to make a smooth, firm seam. If the 000 and 00 SIlk Twist
threads are of the proper size for the material used, and both tensions
Very fine Calicoes, Linens, Shirtings, fine SIlk Goods, ete. 70 to 100 Cotton, right, the threads will be drawn and locked together in the center of the
goods, thus: 70 to 50 Cotton.
A and B Silk Twist.
If the upper tension is too loose (or the lower one too tight), the lower
0 to 25 Cotton
All kinds light Woolen Goods,
thread will lle straight along the under side of the goods, thus:
CAINEWOOI
the upper thread showing in loops on the under side. On the contrary, if 10mts, Cooks, Gund Trousers, Boys' Clothing
10VY 001L
the upper tension is too tight (or the shuttle tension too loose), the upper thread and Heavy Clothing general, Coats, Trous- 30 to 80 Linen.
will lie straight on the upper side of the goods, thus: the lower
USE GOOD NEEDLES AND THREAD.thread showing in ioops on the upper side.
Do not use poor thread or imperfect needles.Any good thread will To tighten the upper tension, turn the tension nut to the right.
To loosen the upper tension, turn the tension nut to the left. do good work on this machine, but you must not expect to make smooth,
As the shuttle tension has been set right for general work when the even stitches with rough, uneven thread.Neither will the machine work
machine leaves our hands, as before explained, any needed regulation of well with a cheap, inferior grade of needles. It is our interest to main-
the stitch in this respect should ordinarily be made by changing the up- tain the reputation of our machines and we can always supply the best
per tension.If, however, when the upper tension is regulated so the lock needles at as low prices as possible. Orders can be sent direct to us by
mail with money enclosed and will be filled promptly. When ordering Is in the center of the goods, both threads appear to be loose and the
always mention size of needles desired and give plate number of yourstitches and seam not smooth and firm, the shuttle tension is too loose, and
machine, which will be found stamped on top of the front shuttle slideshould be tightened by turning the tension screw C to the right (see Fig. 3,
directly in front of the needle.page 6), then tighten the upper tension correspondingly.
If the under thread cannot be properly drawn up without having the Always use exactly the right size of needle for the thread used, as per
table above. Do not use too large a size of thread for the work. If theupper tension so tight that the thread breaks, or if when the tensions are
evenly balanced, the goods are "drawn" or "puckered" (this will oceur thread is too coarse to be properly bedded into the fabric a smooth even
only in sewing very light and "slazy" fabrics), the shuttle tension is too tight, seam cannot be obtained. When sewing two thicknesses of calico or
and should be loosened by turning the shuttle tension screw C to the left; shirting, No. 70 is stronger than the thread woven in the fabric and will
make a handsome stitch. The seam will also wear longer than if coarserthen loosen the upper tenston to correspond.
The above particular explanation is given that every operator may thread is used, because with coarse thread the stitches lie on top of the
fabric and are first worn away.fully understand the principles of the tensions.
To Use Silk Thread.-A finer needle is required for silk thread, and for
using fine silk thread the tensions should be tightened, because silk
thread, being loosely woven, will not be caught by a coarse tension. It
is also advisable to set the needle a trifle lower, or so that the shank of
the needle does not extend so far as 't will go in the needle bar.View original page 7Page 8 · Read text
NARROW HEMMING.
Attach the hemmer foot in place of the presser foot, taking care that
it stands true and straight with the feed. Raise the hemmer to the
lowest lift, clip off the right hand corner of the cloth and turn up the
edge about one-fourth of an inch. Insert it in the scroll (or mouth) of
the hemmer and push it forward to the needle. Then let the hemmer FELLING.
down and start the machine, gently holding back on the work to keep it
smooth, allowing the edge of the goods to pass between the thumb and The foot hemmer and the feller are the same. If the hemmer is
forefinger of the right hand while it is being hemmed, keeping the scroll attached it can be used in place of the presser foot in running up the
of the hemmer just full, as it will leave a raw edge and make a rough and seam, the under edge of which should project about one-fourth of an inch
clumsy hem if there is too much turned in, and too little will not turn beyond the upper, then trim off the edges, if necessary, so as to leave just
under. In hemming on a curve or on flannel or slazy goods, draw gently seam enough to fill the feller. Open the work flat, wrong side up, and
on the edge being hemmed, resisting the feed, and guide the work care- trim the corner of the seam slightly, and then push it into the feller until
fully. it reaches the needle, lower the feller on the feed and start the machine.
The stitch may be laid close to the edge of the hem, or away from it, The feed will carry the seam without helping it, and makes a complete
by setting the hemmer to or from the needle, by swinging the hemmer to fell from the beginning.
the right or left. Practice is necessary with both hemming and felling The feller may be adjusted to the right or left, so as to sew close on
before a neat seam can be produced. the edge of the fell, or away from it as desired.View original page 8Page 9 · Read text
-14-
WIDE HEMMERS.
Four widths of hemmers accompany each machine.
Remove the presser foot and attach the width of hemmer desired in
MAKING WIDE HEM WITH HEMMER AND FELLER. place of the foot on the presser bar, fastening it securely with the thumb
nut.
If a wider hem is desired than can be made with any of the hemmers, Fold the goods by hand the width of hem required, turning one fold
proceed as follows: only, adding about one-eighth of an inch, which will be turned under by
Adjust the hemmer and feller as described on page 12. the hemmer. Then insert the goods in the hemmer, forcing it back until
Fold the cloth the width of the hem and place the fold to the right of the needle will eatch the edge of the goods. Lower the presser foot and
the needle so that the edge of the folded part will easily enter the scroll sew as usual. Slightly press on the goods with the two forefingers of the
of the hemmer and feller.Proceed as in ordinary narrow hemming, left hand. If more goods are required to fill the hemmer and turn the
taking care to keep the fold smooth, as shown in eut above. edge properly, slightly carry the goods to the right. If too much goods
are taken, carry to the left.
The line of stitching can be adjusted to the edge of the hem by mov-
ing the hemmer to the right or left.View original page 9Page 10 · Read text
-17-
DIRECTIONS FOR USING THE RUFFLER.
nonove che broccer loot and nucn che Tumer 10 1lo 00re on the
TO USE THE TUCK MARKER. presser the fork of the lever over the needle nut A. Piace the
Tucking.—Raise the presser bar to its highest point. Remove the pres- goods to be gathered between the steel blades or springs. If the rufile is
ser foot and attach the tucker in its place so that the needle passes down to be attached to a band, place the band below the lower blade.
through the center of the round hole in the foot of the tucker, then To make a fine gather, shorten the stitch and turn the adjusting nut
fasten it securely in this position. To make plaits, turn the adjusting nut B downward to the desired
Lo regulate the size of tuck, loosen screw 4 and place the gauge D for point and lengthen the stitch.
ny desired width, moving to the right for wide and to the left for nar For full gathers, adjust the rufiler the same as in making plaits, using
row tuck. a short stitch.
To regulate the space between tucks, move the marker C to the left The length of the stitch should match the size of the gather or plait,
for wide space and o the right for narrow. so the folds will lie even and not pile up on each other or betoo far apart.
The figures on the scale B show the width of tuck, and those on the Directions for Shirring.—Remove the lower blade of the ruflier by toosen-
Ing the separator post serew on right side of rufier as
By adjusting gauge B and gauge D so that the scale indicators will machine, The lower blade of the rufiler may then be drawn forward
point to the same figures it will make the tucks just meet Remove the shuttle slide and insertthe shirring plate in its place, push-
made, be sure and turn screw A down tight. ing it as far as it will go. Attach the upper part of the rufier and insert
To commence tucking fold the cloth for the first tuck and place it the goods
eneath and (under the spring lip in front of the creaser) with folded edg
Drop the presser foot and sew as usua
The marker makes a crease in the cloth tween the steel blades, as the morement of the teeth on the upper blade
After the first tuck is completed fold the cloth on the crease and place in against the lower blade will dull the teeth and soon make the ruther useless.
che muccer armas betore. Continue this operation for the required The rufiler properly attached to the machine is clearly shown in the
number of tucks. sbove illustration.View original page 10Page 11 · Read text
—19-
TO ATTACH THE BINDER.
Raise the needle to its highest point; remove the presser foot and
attach the binder in its place on the presser, fastening it securely with
the thumb nut. The small end of the scroll of the binder should rest on
the needle plate with the upper scroll of the binder on a line with the
needle.
TO DO BIAS BINDING.
Pass the binding through the scroll of the binder and draw it back
under the needle. Place the edge of the material to be bound between
the upper and lower scrolls, then lower the presser bar and sew as usual.
Guide the cloth with the left hand, and let the binding glide easily
through the fingers of the right hand to keep it straight. If the stitch-
ing should be too near or too far from the edge of the binding, the binder
can be moved to the right or left, until exactly right, For bias binding,
goods of any description can be used, and the binding should be cut three-
quarters of an inch wide, and uniform in width.
If very light "slazy" material is used the binding should be cut a
little wider than three-quarters of an inch in order to have the edges
properly turned under.
Ordinary dress binding can be used in the binder by the same method
as described above.When such binding is used the edge of the binding TO USE THE UNDER BRAIDER.
will not be turned under.
Remove the front race cover and slide the braider in its place, as
shown above. Take off the regular presser foot and put on the special
foot with two short prongs.Draw the braid through the braider tube, as
shown in eut, raise the presser foot and see that the needle passes through
the center of the braid.If not, the braider tube can be moved to the
right or left, as necessary, by loosening the adjusting screw which should
be set tight when the tube is in proper position. Use a No. 1 needle and
about 16 length of stitch. The pattern should be marked or stamped on
the wrong side of the material.
DSI. |View original page 11Page 12 · Read text
TO DO QUILTING. The quilter I is attached by passing the rounded part through the hole in the presser bar made for that purpose, as shown above. Adjust it to the right or left, according to the distance required between the lines of stitching. Fasten it by the small serew 1, in the presser bar, having the guide or flat part of the quilter raised just far enough above the bed of the machine to allow the free passage of the work under it. Guide the work so that the last line of stitching will be directly under the flat part of the quilter. This will make the lines of stitching perfectly straight and equal distances apart.View original page 12
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