Sewing machines
Sears Franklin or Minnesota Model M (black and white scan) — User manual
User manual for Sears Franklin or Minnesota Model M (black and white scan). 34 pages in English. Read the original PDF, download or print a copy without registration.
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- Brand
- Sears
- Model / document
- Sears Franklin or Minnesota Model M (black and white scan)
- Document type
- User manual
- Language
- English
- Pages
- 34
- File size
- 53.6 MB
- Category
- Sewing machines
- Document date
- Not specified in catalog
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Page 1 · Read text
INSTRUCTIONS
for Operating the
FRANKLIN
OR
MINNESOTA "M"
SEWING
MACHINE
SEARS, ROT BUCKAND CO.
"THE WORLD'S LARGEST STORE"
F2142View original page 1Page 2 · Read text
9631
Machine Fo.
Certificate of Guarantee
This is to Certify that this Sewing Machine is war-
ranted to be perfect in material and manufacture, and to
be perfect in operation if properly managed. This machine
has been carefully inspected and adjusted, and there are
no defects in material or workmanship. It has been deliv-
ered to the transportation company in perfect condition,
carefully packed, and we guarantee it to reach your station
in good order.
With fair usage we hereby agree to make good any
defect in material or workmanship for a period of twenty
years.Natural wear and tear on any of the parts is not
considered a defect in material or workmanship.
This guarantee does not apply to attachments, or the
breaking of needles, shuttles, bobbins or belts.
When referring to this guarantee please do not fail to
state Head Number.
SEARS, ROEBUCK & CO.View original page 2Page 3 · Read text
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
The Object of This Book
I Sewinghow toMachineuse it. this book to provide every us showing
READ THIS BOOK CAREFULLY.
The first thing to do when you open the machine is
TO READ THE SIMPLE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY
Even if you have used a sewing machine before, READ THIS
BOOK before you try to operate this machine.
By means of this book we make it unnecessary to depend on
the instruction of a teacher, who says so many things in so short
a time that most of them are-forgotten. This book says all these
things and it is always at hand to repeat them in case of need.
The illustrations are actual photographs of the machine.They
show exactly how the different parts of the machine and its
many attachments work.
By following the instructions in this book
YOUR MACHINE WILL ALWAYS GIVE PERFECT
SATISFACTION.
Every Sewing Machine is tested thoroughly at the factory
before being packed for shipment. Just before packingthe
machine the tensions are adjusted and the machine is oiled.
During shipment more or less dust gathers on the machine, so
after opening the machine carefully wipe it with a dust cloth
and then OIL IT according to the directions given on the follow-
ing pages.
IF YOU READ THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK CARE-
FULLY YOU WILL HAVE NO TROUBLE WITH YOUR
MACHINE.View original page 3Page 4 · Read text
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
Instructions on the Care and Operation of this
Sewing Machine
The illustration on the next page will make you familiar with the
names of the parts of the Sewing Machine Head. On the following pages
we tell you just what to do when you unpack the sewing machine. WE
URGE YOU TO READ THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK VERY CARE-
FULLY, particularly the first half of the book, which tells you how to take
care of your machine. We repeat, if you carefully READ THIS BOOK
and follow the directions and instructions closely YOU WILL HAVE
NO TROUBLE WITH YOUR MACHINE. When you oil the machine
use the oil which comes with the machine and always BE CAREFUL TO
PURCHASE GOOD SEWING MACHINE OIL. The oil listed in our
big General Catalog is very good. You would be surprised to know how
much really depends on the quality of the oil used to get satisfactory results
from your sewing machine. If you cannot purchase the proper kind of
sewing machine oil at home, order it from us when you order other goods.
THE NEEDLE IS ANOTHER VERY IMPORTANT PART of the
sewing machine. cheap, poorly made needle may cause all kinds of
trouble and even prevent the machine from sewing. Many people are
careless in purchasing needles. This Machine uses the same needle as
the Singer Shuttle Machine, commonly known as the Style 27 Singer
WE RECOMMEND that you purchase your needles from us, becaust
you will then get the correct needles of fine quality FOR LESS MONEY
THAN YOU CAN BUY ELSEWHERE. We sell only high grade sewing
machine needles, consequently our machines do not cause trouble on this
decoulll. WHEN YOU ORDER NEEDLES MERELY MENTION
THENAME AND GIVE THE HEAD NUMBER OF YOUR
MACHINE.
Please DO NOT attempt to CHANGE any of the adjustments of
your sewing machine. Do not turn any screws to see how they work
The machines are carefully adjusted and tested at the factory and are in
so that THE ADJUST-
MENTS SHOULD NOT BE INTERFERED WITH. TH YOU CAT-
ful to followour suggestion in this regard you will secure far better
results, and after you have become familiarwith the operation of your
machine and its different parts YOU WILL HAVE NO DIFFICULTY
whatever in making changes in the tensions, should you find it necessary
to sew on extremely light or slazy material.
If you have any trouble and cannot determine the remedy from this
book,write to us and we will be only too glad to advise you promptly
just what to do.
sven though you have operated a machine we hope you will read
his book carefully and familiarize yourself with the different workin,
parts of the Head. By following the simple rules and the directions which
you, WE ARE SUREYOU WILL ALWAYS FIND YOUR
MACHINE READY WHEN YOU WISH TO SEW.View original page 4Page 6 · Read text
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
To Oil the Stand.
The journal of the balance wheel below the table, the bearings
at each end of the pitman and the bearings of the treadle on each
side are the five points on the stand which require regular oiling.
After oiling run the machine a few minutes to distribute the oil
and then wipe carefully. BE SURE EVERY PART IS CLEAN
BEFORE COMMENCING TO SEW.
BANDWHEEL-
CENTER BRACE
* RIGHT
EFT- LEG
LEG
-DRESS
GUARD
STEELS
PITMAN
OIL-
TREADLE
OIL O
TREADLE-
ROD
Figure 4.
If at any time you are in need of repairs for the stand, send us
a full size drawing of the part and mention the name and head
number of your machine. The number will be found on the bed-
plate, in the rear right hand corner, behind arm of machine.
Prices of repairs will be found in our General Catalog:View original page 6Page 8 · Read text
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
Oiling®
A sewing machine, like every other piece of machinery, needs oiling
to insure easy running and to prevent unnecessary wear of the parts
which bear upon each other.
If a machine is used continuously IT SHOULD BE OILED
EVERY DAY. With moderate use an occasional oiling is sufficient.
The pictures on the opposite page show by arrows the points where oil
should be applied. ONE DROP OF OIL at each point is plenty. More
than this will retard rather than help the action of the machine. Oil
holes are provided in the arm of the machine for parts which cannot be
directly reached. Oil is applied to the shuttle through the oil hole under
the front shuttle slide.
Oil is applied to the needle bar cam through the hole in the back
of the cam house. The needle bar should be raised to its highest point.
The movable trade mark plate on the back of the arm just below the
spool pin, and the plate in front just above the tension, give access to
other parts which it is very necessary to oil.
To oil the works underneath the bedplate, throw off the belt, turn
the head back and apply the oil on bearing, as shown by the arrow
marks in the illustration.
On automatic lift machines the shipping screw on the bedplate
near the base of the arm must be taken out before the head can be
turned back.
IF THE MACHINE RUNS HARD it is due to lack of proper
oiling of some bearings. Should the machine become gummed from
long standing or poor oil, apply kerosene to all the bearings to remove
the gum; then run the machine rapidly, wipe clean and
THOROUGHLY WITH GOOD SEWING MACHINE OIL
before beginning to sew.
Be sure to use ONLY good quality sewing machine oil. Include
your order for oil in a freight shipment.View original page 8Page 9 · Read text
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
HAND WHEEL
STITCH
REGULATOR
FRICTION
NUT
Figure 5.
Running the Machine.
A uniform motion is necessary to secure the best results. If you
are not accustomed to running a sewing machine you should practice as
follows: Firstraise thepresserfoot, then remove theshuttle (see
Figure 8, page 12,replacing the shuttle slide; loosen the hand wheel,
holding the rim with the left hand while turning the friction nut toward
you with the right; your feet on the treadle, WITH THE INSTEI
IRECTLY OVER THE CENTER, and turn the hand wheel towar
you with the right hand, allowing the feet to move up and down on the
rocking treadle with the motion produced Continue this motion by
pressing on the treadle, first with the heel, then with the toes, until an
easy and steady motion is obtained. After becoming familiar with the
treadle movement in this way, connect the hand wheel with the machine
turning the friction nut away trom you. ALWAYS HAVE THE
PRESSER FOOT RAISED WHILE OPERATING THE MACHINE
WITHOUT HAVING CLOTH UNDER THE PRESSER FOOT.
Now start the hand wheel toward you and continue the motion with
the feet as already learned, Whenyou
are able to operate the treadle with a steady motion put a piece of cloth
between the feed and the presser foot, drop the presser foot down on the
you have learned to guide the material and withoutmake a straightthreadingseam.it "p, until
attempt to do any sewing until you are able to run the machine by the
treadle and accustomed to starting the machine readily without turning
the wheel in the wrong direction REMEMBER, THE TOP OF THE
HAND WHEEL SHOULD TURN TOWARD THE OPERATOR.View original page 9Page 10 · Read text
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
5
OIL
Figure 6.
Winding the Bobbin.
If an Electric Machine see Instructions on Page 33 also.
Hold the hand wheel with the left hand while turning the friction nut
toward you with the right hand. This will release the sewing mechanism
of the machine.Pull the bobbin winder toward you until the small pulley.
wheel (1) comes in contact with the belt. OPERATE THE MACHINE
UNTIL THE DISTRIBUTER (2) IS AS FAR TO THE RIGHT AS
IT WILL GO. Place one end of the bobbin in the socket of the spindle
(3) on the right side and the other end of the bobbin in the socket of the
step (4) on the left side, pulling the step nut (5) toward the left to admit
the bobbin and letting it spring back into place.Catch the end of the
thread between the brass end of the bobbin and the socket of the spindle
(3) on the right side, carry the thread through the slot (2), then to the
lower end of the distributer to the slot (6), then through the eyelet in
the upper corner of the face plate (2), (see Figure 7, page 10), placing
the spool on the spool pin.Run the machine as previously instructed and
the bobbin will be automatically wound. BE SURE TO STOP WIND-
ING BEFORE THE THREAD IS WOUND HIGHER THAN THE
BRASS ENDS OF THE BOBBIN.
A DROP OF OIL should be placed as indicated by the arrows
marked"oil."
When through winding the bobbin, push the bobbin winder back
against the arm of themachine and turn the friction nut on the hand
wheel away from you until it is tight and the machine will be ready for
sewing.
On Parlor Cabinets the belt should be placed back of pulley wheel
marked 1.View original page 10Page 11 · Read text
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
STOP PIN
B→
"FLAT
LONG GROOVE
SHORT
GROOVE
Figure 12.
To Set the Needle.
Raise the needle bar to its highest point and loosen the needle
clamp screw (A), (see illustration). Hold the needle between the
thumb and first finger of the left hand and pass the shank of the needle
up through the hole in the needle clamp (B) AS FAR AS THE STOP
PIN, WITH THE FLAT SIDE OF THE SHANK TOWARD THE
NEEDLE BAR. After setting the needle, turn the hand wheel until the
needle passes part way through the hole in the needle plate and then
tighten screw "A" securely.
NEVER USE A NEEDLE WITH THE POINT BLUNTED OR
TURNED OVER.
You can save money and get high grade needles by ordering from
Sears, Roebuck and Co. Whenordering mention the name of
machine and give the head number.View original page 11Page 13 · Read text
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
the forefinger of
the left hand hold the bob.
bin gently place lead
he thread with the right
hand through the slot in
end the shuttle, drawingitunderthe
BELOWBELOWTHEAND SLIGHTSLEFT
the point of the shuttle, as
shown in the illustration.
Figure 10.
Carry thethread
up straightabove
the shuttle,the
illustration
TH
THREAD TOMAKE SUR
THATBOBBIN RE-
VOLVES FREE-
break offtheendof the threadthat
inches hang fron
the re-
store theshuttle
the machine
and replace the
front shuttle
slide.
Figure 11.
-13-View original page 13Page 14 · Read text
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
Figure 13.
To Prepare for Sewing.
BEFORE COMMENCING TO SEW, raise the presser foot and
take hold of the end of the needle thread, leaving it slack from the end
of the wheel until the needle
moves down,dosedle;and rmup agamnthe ba To ITS HIGHEST POINT." The needle
thread has then been carried around the under thread, which can be
drawn up through the hole in the throat plate by the needle thread
BOTH SHOULD THEN BE LAID BACK UNDER THE PRESSER
FOOT.
THE BEST RESULTS ARE OBTAINED WHEN BOTH THE
UPPER AND LOWER THREADS ARE THE SAME SIZE AND
QUALITY. Many people use threads sewing
tabrics; for example, it is impossible to make a good looking stitch on
any machine with say No. 40 cotton whensewing two thicknesses of
calico or shirting. No. 70 cotton is stronger thanthe tabric and will
make a handsome stitch.
TO TURN A CORNER,stop the machine while the needle is
rising, but before it is out of the material, raise the presser foot and
turn the corner, using the needle as a pivot.
FOR SEWING FLANNEL OR BIAS SEAMS use a short stitch
and light tensions so that there will be sufficient thread in the seam to
allow the goods to stretch, if necessary.View original page 14Page 15 · Read text
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
TO ALTER THE LENGTH OF STITCH. On the side of the
arm near the bobbin winder is a large thumbscrew called the stitch
regulator. (See Figure 5, page 8.) Turn it to the right toward the
hand wheel to make the stitch longer, and to the left toward the needle
to make the stitch shorter.
TO REMOVE THE WORK.Turn the hand wheel until the needle
is at its highest point, raise the presser foot and DRAW THE FABRIC
BACK about 3 inches in a straight line with the back shuttle slide;
pass both threads over the thread cutter, and with a slight downward
pressure they will be severed close to the end of the stitching.
TO AVOID BREAKING NEEDLES. When a needle is broken it
is in nearly every case the fault of the operator, caused by PULLING
THE WORK so that the NEEDLE STRIKES THE THROAT PLATE.
A needle may also be broken by sewing heavy seams or very thick goods
without having the pressure on the presser foot as heavy as it should be
for such work.
BREAKING THE UPPER THREAD. This may be caused by
IMPROPER THREÄDING of the machine, the UPPER TENSION
being TOO TIGHT, the NEEDLE being TOO SMALL for the thread,
the NEEDLE being SET the WRONG side out or set CROOKED, or
by a sharp edge on the shuttle, or the needle rubbing against the press-
foot.
BREAKING THE LOWER THREAD. This may be caused by the
SHUTTLE being WRONGLY THREADED, the TENSION being
TOO TIGHT, the BOBBIN being wound TOO FULL so it will not
revolve freely, a rough or sharp place on the edge of the shuttle spring
or on the heel of the shuttle, or by FAILING TO KEEP the SHUTTLE
RACE CLEAN.
CAUSE OF A MACHINE SKIPPING STITCHES. Should there
at any time be skipped or long stitches at intervals, it is owing to the
NEEDLE being SET TOO LOW or its having become BENT AWAY
from the shuttle, or its being TOO SMALL for THE THREAD IN
USE, and sometimes because the POINT of the SHUTTLE becomes
accidentally BLUNTED. NEVER USE A NEEDLE WITH THE
POINT BLUNTED OR TURNED OVER.
TO CHANGE THE PRESSURE OF THE PRESSER FOOT ON
THE MATERIAL. Turn the large regulator screw (see Figure 1, page
4) at the top of the arm directly over the presser foot to the right to
make the pressure heavier, or to the left to make it lighter. The pressure
should be ONLY heavy enough to PREVENT the MATERIAL RISING
with the needle and to insure that the feed moves the work along evenly;
a heavier pressure would make the machine run harder and be of no
benefit.
—15-View original page 15Page 16 · Read text
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO
To Regulate the Tension.
This Machine is fitted with an AUTO-
4 MATIC TENSION RELEASE.When you
regulate the tension, the presser foot must
be down. The upper tension is regulated by
the tension regulator (see 1, Figure 13½);
turn the tension regulator ONLY A QUAR-
TER OF A TURN AT A TIME over to
the right to make the upper thread tighter,
or to the left to make it looser.
Caution: Always see that the thread con-
troller spring (4) is always above the arm
(5), as in Figure 13½.
Figure 13½.
Figure 14.°
For ordinary stitching the upper and under threads should be
LOCKEDIN THE CENTER of the thickness of the material, as
shown in Figure 14.
Figure 15.
If the upper thread is held too tightly by its tension, or if the under
thread is too loose,the thread will lie straight along the upper surface of
the material, as shown in Figure 15.
Figure 16.
If the under tension is too tight, or the upper too loose, the thread
will lie straight along the under sideof the material, shown
Figure 16.
The under tension is REGULATED by a SMALL SCREW near
THE POINT of the shuttle on its upper side (see
Curn this screw over to the right ONLY A OUARTERmgure 1o,OF pageTURN13)
AT A TIME to make the thread draw off harder, or to the left to make
it draw easier. After this tension has been once properly adjusted it is
rarely necessary to change it, as a correct stitch can usually be obtained
by varying the tightness of the upper thread.
The Belt.
If the belt is too tight the effect is to make the machine run heavy
It should be just tight enough so that it will not slipwhen the band
wheel is revolving. If the belt is too loose remove one end of the hook
cut off a short piece and connect the belt. KEEP THE BELT AS FREE
FROM OILAS POSSIBLE, BECAUSE OIL WILL CAUSE THE
BELT TO ROT.View original page 16Page 17 · Read text
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
Use Good Needles and Thread.
First selectthe THREAD TO SUIT THE GOODS,
NEEDLE TOSUIT THE THREAD, according below.
Remember NOT to use TOO LARGE A SIZE OF THREAD for the
DO NOT USE POOR THREAD OR IMPERFECT NEEDLES
Any good thread will do good work on this machine, but you must not
expect tomake smooth, even stitches with rough, uneven thread. If
the thread is too coarse to beproperly bedded into the fabric a smooth
even seam cannot beobtained. Whensewing TWO THICKNESSES
of calico or shirting, No. 70 COTTON IS STRONGER than the thread
woven in the fabric and will make a handsome stitch The seam will also
wear longer than topif coarserof thethreadfabricis used, becausefirst wornwith coarseaway.thread the
will the machine work well with cheap, poorly made needles. It is to
our interest to reputation of our machines, and we can
always supply HIGH GRADE NEEDLES AT THE LOWEST PRICES.
Orders may be sent direct to us by mail with money enclosed; theywill
be hlled promptly. When ordering ALWAYS MENTION THE NAME
OF THE HEAD AND THE HEAD NUMBER
To Use Silk Thread.
Set the our read to leone to om the one ano
Sizes of Needles and Thread.
Silk
Class of Work to Sew
ThreacSeed of Cotton
00 150-300 000
Very Thin Muslins, Cambrics, Linens, etc.
90-150 00 Yene silk Go Cas oes, Linens, Shirtings,
60-90 1 0-A
all kinds of Heavy Calicoes, Light Woole
oods, Heavy Silk, Seaming, Stitchin 40-60 B 2 etc.
3 30-40
Ticking: Cose, Code, rates, Boys'
4 20-30 D
-17.-View original page 17Page 18 · Read text
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
The Attachments.
Few people realize how easy it is to operate the attachments, and
because no effort is made to learn, or a wrong start is made, they neglect
to take advantage of the opportunities which the attachments afford. We
here offer suggestions which we hope will be followed by every user.
If you make an earnest effort to learn how to use the different attachments,
we are sure you will use your sewing machine twice as much as you would
if you did not know how to use and operate them. With the different
attachments there is no end to the variety of the work which you can do
with your machine. Remember that the successful operation of the attach-
ments comes through practice, and you must not expect to make a shirt
waist or dress by means of the attachments without first practicing their
uses and knowing just what they can do.We recommend that you purchase
material and practice the various operations of the different attachments,
and as a guide we suggest that you buy the following materials:
One yard of white Lonsdale cambric; have it cut into strips 1 inch
wide. These strips are most useful in learning the operation of the
rufiler.
One-half yard of Persian lawn or similar material; ¼ yard of batiste.
Cut these into 10 or 12-inch squares and practice tucking and shirring;
then after some of this material has been shirred or different styles of
tucks have been made (see page 24 for tucking and page 22 for shirring),
the edges of the squares may be bound by use of the binder (see page 29).
One roll of bias binding, ⅞ inch wide, will be sufficient to learn how
to use the binder.
One strip of Fruit of the Loom heavy muslin, ½ yard wide, cut
crosswise, will give you sufficient cloth for learning the operation of the
set of hemmers.
One bunch of cotton braid for learning the use of the under braider.
Three or four squares of some heavy and rather stiff material,
stamped with a design, would, in connection with the braid, be sufficient
for learning the operation of the under braider.
Remember that practice makes perfect. If you buy these materials
and learn the different uses of the attachmentswe are sure that you
will get a great deal more service out of your sewing machine and that
you will make a great many things at a considerable saving in money
which you would not do if you did not know how to operate the
attachments.View original page 18Page 19 · Read text
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
-2
Figure 18.
The Ruffler.
Remove the presserfoot and attach the ruffler in its place on the
presser bar with FORK of the ruffler lever (B) around the needle
clamp screw (A), thentighten the attachment holder thumbnut (C).
Turn the hand wheel SLOWLY needle passes
down through the center of the round hole in the foot of the
The lines 1, 2, 3 and 4 show how to place the different pieces of
cloth under the ruffler.
Line 1-The lower piece or band to which the ruffle is sewed.
Line 2-The piece to be gathered.
Line 3-The heading, or upper piece, when ruffling between two
pieces.
Line 4-The strip of piping.
The thumbscrew (E) regulates the fullness of the ruffle.
-19-View original page 19Page 20 · Read text
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
Ruffling.
Place the goods to be gathered between the ruffer blade and the
separator bladeand push forward until under the foot, lower the
presser bar and commence to sew.
To make a fine ruffle, shorten the stitch and turn the adjusting
screw (E) to the right one-quarter turn at a time until the ruffle looks
satisfactory.
To make a full gather, turn the adjusting screw (E) to the left and
use a short stitch.By regulating the adjusting screw (E) and the length
of stitch you can make all variations from the very scant to the full
ruffle.
NEVER TRY TO REGULATE both the adjusting screw (E) and
stitch at the same time.
If the ruffle is to be sewed on to the band, place the band under the
separating blade.
NOTE-The ruffler should never be used without cloth between the
blades.
To remove the work see paragraph 2, page 15.View original page 20Page 21 · Read text
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO
Ruffling, Piping and Sewing on Heading.
Attach shirring plate as described on page 22.
Remove the separating blade from the ruffler, as directed on the
next page, then attach the ruffler to the presser bar.
Fold the piping (A) and insert into the pipe gauge (see Figure 18,
page 19). Fold the heading (C) and insert into slot right in front of the
piping gauge. Place the band (B) to be ruffled between the ruffling and
shirring blades, lower the presser bar and commence to sew slowly.
The quality and varietyof the work depends entirely upon the
operator.
For sizes of needles and thread see page 17.View original page 21Page 22 · Read text
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
308832
Shirring.
Partlyremove both shuttle slides and insert the shirring plate,
as shown above. Before attaching the rufflertothe presser bar,
loosen the screw (A) back of the ruffler, take off the separating blade,
as shown above,then attach the ruffler to the presser bar.
Place the goods between the shirring blade and the ruffler blade
and proceed the same as ordinary ruffling.
Use the quilter as a guide for subsequent rows of shirring or by
creasing thecloth before starting to shirr, the creaseswill act as a
guide for the stitching.View original page 22Page 23 · Read text
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
To Use the Tuck Marker.
Raise the presser bar, remove the presser foot and attach the tucker
in its place so the needle passes down through the center of the round
hole in the foot of the tucker.
To regulate the size of the tuck, loosen the screw (A) and place
the gauge (D) for any desired width, moving to the right for wide and
to the left for narrow tucks.
To regulate the space between the tucks, move the marker (C) to
the left for wide space and to the right for narrow.
The figures on the scale B show the width of the tuck and those on
scale C the width of space.
By adjusting gauge B and gauge C so that the scale indicators will
point to the same figure, it will make the tucks just meet. When the
above adjustments have been made be sure to turn screw (A) down
tight.
You will get better stitching by using No. 70 or No. 80 cotton in
preference to No. 40 cottonView original page 23From the ISMACS International. Original publisher and archive notices are retained.
Check the model and edition against your equipment.
PDF verified 2026-10-11.










