Sewing catalogs & reference
Singer Student Handbook — Reference guide
Reference guide for Singer Student Handbook. 66 pages in English. Read the original PDF, download or print a copy without registration.
66 pagesEnglish13.8 MB PDF
Loading your manual…Open PDF directly
Document details
- Brand
- Singer
- Model / document
- Singer Student Handbook
- Document type
- Reference guide
- Language
- English
- Pages
- 66
- File size
- 13.8 MB
- Category
- Sewing catalogs & reference
- Document date
- Not specified in catalog
Search available document text
Find a term, then jump to its page in the original PDF. Image-only pages may not be searchable; check the PDF for exact wording and diagrams.
Page 2 · Read text
A CompIeIe listing of
SINGER EDUCATIONAL PUBLICATIONS
For Home Economics Classes
may be obtained
by writing to
SINGER SEWING MACHINE COMPANY
Educational Depaflment.
Singer Building,
149 Broadway
New York 6, N. Y.View original page 2Page 3 · Read text
S l N G E R*
Student's Manual
OF
Machine Sewing
«w
SPECIALLY PREPARED
FOR STUDENTS
IN SCHOOLS AND COLLEGES
‘ PUBLISHED DY
”NOR! SEWING MACHINE COMPANY
EDUCATIONAL DEPARTMENI
SINGER lUlLDING, 149 BROADWAY, NEW YORK
TH! SINGER MANUFACTURING COMPANY
‘A Ivodcmorl of THE SINGER MANUFACTURING COMPANY E
Form 1689—R0viud (658) Prim-d In U.S.A.View original page 3Page 4 · Read text
PREFACE
One aim in education is to equip the scholar for his or her future
career. To the girl interested in Household Economics the sewing ma-
chine offers wonderful possibilities. This booklet is to instruct her
regarding the care and operation of the Family Sewing Machine
to obtain best results.
A large part of the family income is usually spent by the woman, and
her knowledge of how to plan and make proper clothing for the family
has a great influence on the purchasing power of the income. By making
garments at home it is possible to provide wearing apparel for herself
and for those for whom she must provide, at a cost that will not only be
in keeping with her purse but it will give satisfaction and pleasure to
the wearer.
Success in home sewing depends greatly on the ability to use to the
fullest extent the modern sewing machine and its various attachments.
The cost of material for making a garment is usually one-half to one-
third the amount asked for a similar one ready made. The styles of
today can easily be followed and, with the help of charts that are fur-
nished with many of the patterns, the cutting is very simple. The modem
electric sewing machine takes away all the labor of stitching. By using
the attachments furnished with it, fashion touches may very quickly be
added without previous basting or preparation.
When one considers that the stitching for a garment may be done
very quickly and entirely without effort on the electric machine, is it any
wonder the woman of today is becoming more and more interested in
home sewing?
It is our hope that the instructions contained in this booklet will enable
you to learn the proper care and operation of your sewing machine,
so that you can obtain the greatest benefit from its use.
SlNGER SEWING MACHINE COMPANY
Copyright @ l957 by The Singer Manufacturing CompanyView original page 4Page 6 · Read text
Needle Bar—the vertical bar to which the needle is attached and
which moves the needle with the upper thread down
through the fabric at each stitch.
Presser Bar—the vertical bar to which the presser foot is attached.
This bar passes through a coil spring which exerts a pressure
on the bar and holds the fabric down against the feed dog
when sewing. The presser bar and foot may be raised by
means of the presser bar lifter.
Face Plate—the vertical plate on the left of the arm which may be
removed to give access to the needle bar, presser bar and
take-up.
Throat Plate—the plate in the bed directly under the needle through
which the needle passes and through which the feed dog
proiects upward.
Feed Dog—the toothed part which proiects upward through slots
in the throat plate, moving the fabric at each stitch. The
stroke of the feed dog is controlled by the stitch regulator
to give the desired length of stitch.
Bed Slide—the flat plate at the left of the bed which may be opened
to give access to the shuttle or bobbin case and other parts
of the lower stitch-forming mechanism.
Bobbin—the metal spool on which thread is wound to furnish the
lower or under thread supply.
Shuttle or Bobbin Case-the container in which the bobbin is placed
and around which the loop of the needle thread is passed to
form the lock stitch.
Rotary or Oscillating Hook—the part which enters a loop of needle
thread and carries it around the bobbin case to form the
lock stitch. In the long bobbin machine (SINGER No. 127)
this function is performed by the shuttle, which also acts as
a bobbin case.
lower Tension—the spring on the shuttle or bobbin case which con-
trols the delivery of thread from the bobbin.
Motor—the electric motor drives the machine by means of a belt.
It is attached by a single screw to the back of the arm.
Sewing Light—the electric lamp and reflector which throws its rays
on the bed of the machine.
Three-Pin Terminal—the plug and socket arrangement which con-
nects the electric supply cord to the motor, light and con-
troller.
The 66 Class Machine. the principal parts of which are illustrated
and described in the foregoing, is used extensively in schools and
colleges throughout the country. However, newer types of lock
stitch electric machines, that sew backward as well as forward, are
now being sold to schools, and some of their features (different
from those described above for the 66 Class Machine) are shown
on page 5. The machine illustrated is the 15-91, while the deluxe
rotary 201-2 Machine also possesses all the features mentioned.View original page 6Page 8 · Read text
Formation of the lock Stitch
The lock stitch made by sewing machines consists of an upper
or needle thread and an under or bobbin thread locked together
in the material which is being stitched, the lock being formed by
passing the upper around the lower thread and tightening them
together in the middle of the fabric.
We “2 TY-Tf'Tf'"
L2?155le ,. zwlfi
Fig. 3. Formation of the lock Stitch
When a stitch has been completed and before each succeed-
ing stitch is started, the fabric being stitched is carried from the
needle by the feeding mechanism and upon the length of its move-
ment depends the length of the stitch.
The presser foot holds down the fabric, prevents it from rising
with the needle and holds it in contact with the feed dog while the
feeding takes place.
Wind the Bobbins Evenly
A bobbin must be wound evenly to work pr0perly in the ma-
chine. Great care should be taken in winding bobbins to have the
thread placed on the bobbin smoothly and evenly, and the bobbin
should never be wound so fully that it is tight in the bobbin case
or shuttle. See Fig. 4. A correctly wound bobbin will insure a smooth-
- . running thread from the bobbin case and
will prevent an uneven stitch which may
occur if the thread is placed on the
bobbin unevenly.
If, on bobbin winders of the type
shown in Fig. 6, the thread winds to one
' " side of the bobbin, call the nearest
"9- ‘~ l'l' “hm" SINGER Shop and an adiuster will be sent Incorrectly Wound
Rig," Bobbin to correct the trouble.
Correctly Wound Always make it a point to have a suf-
~ iicient quantity of bobbins on hand so
that it is unnecessary to wind one color
of thread on a partly wound bobbin of
another color. Bobbins wound in this man-
ner are often uneven, and the ends of
the threads become tangled, causing con-
siderable trouble in the bobbin case.
On Machines which have bobbin
winder thread guide A, Fig. 5 fastened to
bed of machine, bobbin winder is some-
what different. If thread does not wind
evenly on bobbins of these machines,
loosen screw which holds thread guide A,
. Fig. 5 in position and slide guide to the
“9 5_ Bob“, Winder Adiw'mnt right or left as may be required, then
on Hot Machine tighten screw.
6View original page 8Page 9 · Read text
Increasing the Pressure on the Bobbin Winder
If the pressure of the rubber ring against the hub of the hand
wheel is not sufficient to wind the bobbin, loosen the adiusting
screw (see Fig. 6) and press the bobbin winder lightly until the
rubber ring is in contact with the hub of the hand wheel, then
tighten the screw. This type of bobbin winder is found on Class 66
(on most varieties), 99, ”5 and 1530 Machines.
If the rubber ring becomes
worn or if oil has been allowed
to come in contact with the
rubber, the ring will not have
the proper contact with the
wheel and will slip when at-
tempting to wind a bobbin. A
worn or oily ring should be re-
placed.
The bobbin winder on most
of the SINGER family machines
has an automatic stop which re-
leases the winder from the hand Fig. 6. Adiusling Pressure on Bobbin Winder
wheel when the bobbin has been
fully wound.
On machines having the type of bobbin winder shown in
Fig. 7, if the pressure of the bobbin winder pulley against the hub
of the hand wheel is insufficient
for winding the bobbin, press down
the bobbin winder until the latch
A, Fig. 7 drops down and holds it,
then loosen the adiusting screw
F, Fig. 7. With the forefinger, push
back the upper end of the slotted
plate E as far as it will go, as
shown in Fig. 7, and at the same
time press the bobbin winder pul-
ley against the hub of the hand . .
wheel, then tighten the adiusting F'ggggz'wflfi: °l
screw F.View original page 9Page 10 · Read text
Importance of Correct Needle and Thread
A perfect stitch can be obtained only when the thread is selected
to suit the fabric which is to be stitched and the needle is the correct
size for the thread. If the needle is too fine for the thread and the
material to be sewn, it is quite likely to break when crossing a
seam. If a large needle is used on fine material, the perforations
made by the needle will show on the finished work. A table of
correct needles for the various sizes and types of thread is given on
page 63 of this book as well as in the instruction book for each
machine. This table should be followed carefully when ordering
needles and when changing them for various classes of work.
Note: For best results, use needles sold by Singer Sewing Machine
Company.
Testing a Needle
An important essential for good work is that the needle be per-
fectly straight.
A straight needle can be determined by placing the flat side of
the needle on the slide plate of
the machine or any other per-
fectly flat solid surface. Hold the
needle flat against the plate and
hold the plate up to the light as
shown in Fig. 8. A straight
needle will show an even
amount of light under it and the
point will be in line with the
shank, while the point of a
Fig. 3. Testing a Needle for crooked or bent needle will be
Straightneu closer to or further from the
plate.
You will note from Fig. 9 that the
side of the needle with the flat on
the shank has a short groove at the
eye, while the other side has a
long groove. On all machines, the
thread must lie in this long groove
when sewing. If the needle is not
placed correctly in the machine, it
will not sew.
Fig. 9. Flat and Grooved
Sides of Needle (Enlarged)View original page 10Page 11 · Read text
To Set the Needle Correctly
Turn the hand wheel over toward you until needle bar rises
to its highest point. loosen thumb screw of needle clamp and re-
move the old needle from machine. Place new needle in needle
clamp, making sure that flat side of needle faces in the correct
direction, which can be determined as follows:
NEEDLE
<— FLAT FLAT —> THREAD EAD
SIDE SIDE THRRIGHT
RIGHT
£21393 £21394
Fig. 10 Fig. 11
On all machines having the On all machines having the
needle bar slot at the left, as needle bar slot at the right, as
shown in Fig. 10, the flat side of shown in Fig. 11, the flat side of
needle must face the right and needle must face the left and
needle must be threaded from needle must be threaded from
left to right (from long groove right to left (from long groove
side). This applies to Machines side). This applies to Machines
15-30, 15-86, 15-87, 15-96. 15-88, 15-89, 15-90, 15-91, 201,
1598, 66, 99, 101, 127 and 128. 221 and 3011‘.
The Necessity for Proper Tensions
The tensions on the sewing machine must be adjusted to suit
various fabrics. There are two tensions, the upper and the lower.
The upper tension controls the needle thread, while the lower ten-
sion controls the thread from the shuttle or bobbin case,
The definition of the word tension as given in the dictionary is:
”stress by pulling.” It is the pulling together of the threads that
completes a stitch on the sewing machine. After the needle thread
has passed around the bobbin case, the slack thread must be taken
up and some tension placed on both upper and lower threads as
they are drawn into the material and locked together.
the needle clamp on Machine 301 will not permit needle to be inserted incorrectly.
9View original page 11Page 12 · Read text
If both threads are under
proper tension, the lack occurs
in center of material being sewn
and a perfect stitch is formed as Fig. I2. Beth Tensions Correct
in Fig. 12.
If tension on needle thread is
~ > _—-'<,- 4: w-e—frwem. too tight, or if that on bobbin
“ELEMELELBN—‘Er—lg; thread is too loose, needle thread
‘ “ will lie along upper surface of
"e 13-179“ Upper Tendon material as illustrated in Fig. 13.
If tension on bobbin thread is
q _7_ _ . A too tight, or if that on needle
flfifi.ifiuv‘fl.'7fitlfllfi thread is too lease, bobbin
“-‘—"“*‘ 1‘“ "‘”‘- ‘ W- ~ʼ.ʼ:: thread will lie straight along
Fig. 14. Tight lower Tension under side of material as shown
in Fig. 14.
Fine materials require a light tension, while heavy materials
require more tension to produce a perfect stitch.
If too tight a tension is used on fine material, the threads may
break when material is pressed flat. A bias seam will pucker if ten»
sion is tight. if tension on a flat seam is too loose, there is danger of
thread being pulled out. A long stitch and a loose tension are often
used when basting, so that stitches may easily be pulled from
material.
How to Adiust the Tensions
1. Turn hand wheel until take-up lever is at its highest position.
2. Pass upper thread between tension discs into thread take-up
spring and through hole in take-up lever.
3. lower presser bar, as needle thread tension is released when
presser bar is raised.
4. Turn tension thumb nut B, Fig. 15
counter-clockwise until there is no tension
on thread.
5. Draw sufficient thread from spool
to provide a slack thread between spool
and tension so as to remove weight of
spool from thread while tension is being
adiusted.
6. Turn tension thumb nut B, Fig. 15 ‘ mm
clockwise to tighten tension while lightly Fi . 15. Adiutt‘n
drawing thread through take-up lever. m3 upp" 1.0.23.
until take‘up spring is lifted and thread
can be held in a straight line between take-up lever and tension
discs without taking thread through tension discs.
7. Complete threading of machine for sowing.View original page 12Page 13 · Read text
After upper tension is
adjusted, bobbin thread
tension spring should
be adiusted for about
some tension, comparing
tensions as shown in
Fig. 16.
Bobbin thread tension
is adjusted by turning
small screw near center
Fig. 16. Testing Upper and lower
of spring under which
Tensions Together thread passes on long
shuttle or round bobbin case. With a small screwdriver, turn screw
to right to tighten or to left to loosen tension. Then a few stitches
should be taken in a practice piece of material to see if stitch is
locked in center of material. If bobbin thread shows on top, Fig. 13,
under tension is too loose. If bobbin thread shows on bottom, Fig. 14,
under tension is too tight.
With under thread tension properly adiusted, a variety of dif-
ferent sizes of needle threads can be used without disturbing tension
on under thread, as the required change in tension to suit ma-
terial being sewn can be made by adiusting tension on upper
thread only.
Machines 15-88 to 15-9], 66-16, 201, 221 and 301 have gradu-
ated scales D, Fig. ‘IS so that, when correct tension is found for a
particular kind of work, it is only necessary to note number on scale
to obtain some tension at any time.
Preparing to Sew
Pull sufficient thread through
needle to start sewing, hold end
of thread in left hand and, with
right, turn hand wheel over un-
til needle goes down and up
again and under thread is
pulled up through needle hole
r .in throat plate. See Fig. 17. ,,
lay bo'h lhreads boc“ under fig. I7. Pulling up Under Thread
presser foot diagonally across
feed as shown in Fig. 18, to the right or left
depending upon which side of needle the
material is to be located, so that when
presser foot is lowered, the threads will be
firmly held between feed and presser foot.
Note: On some classes of family sewing ma-
chines, throat plate has distinct markings,
as shown in Fig. 18, which are to guide
- 3 - edges of seams and hems. These markings.
Hg' 12; ?;7?‘§2J3,:°”'°" at 1/8" intervals from 1/4" to 3/4” in dis-
tance from right of needle, assist in guiding fabric uniformly. Cross-
i'lView original page 13Page 14 · Read text
lines on throat plate indicate pivot point of needle when turning
square corners.
Edge of garment to be stitched should be placed iust far enough
under presser foot so that first stitch may be taken in material. Never
place material so far in front of
needle that first stitch will not be
taken in material, as this may
cause thread to become caught
in bobbin case and material may
not feed under foot properly un-
less edge has been caught with
needle. Position needle into fab-
ric where first stitch is to fall.
Holding thread ends, lower
presser foot, bringing tension
into operation. This prevents
thread from being caught in [Hi-YD
bobbin case. See Fig. 19 for
proper starting of material under Fig. l9. Beginning a Scam
presser foot.
Finishing a Seam
When finishing a seam, never sew beyond end of material. Stop
machine by placing hand on hand wheel shortly before end of seam
is reached. This will prevent thread from becoming caught in bob-
bin case. See Fig. 20.
Do not attempt to release material from machine until take-up
lever is at its highest point. See T, Fig. 27. When take-up is in this
position and presser foot is raised, the tension is released.
Always take material from
machine by pulling it straight rr '—'
back or away from you. This will
prevent needle from becoming
bent or broken.
Always have a sufficient
length of thread to prevent its
pulling through needle when you
start to sew next seam. Pull ma‘
terial back from you far enough
to allow upper and lower Fig.20.iinishinga$eom
threads to enter thread cutter
A, Fig. 17. Hold thread with both hands and cut with a quick down-
ward motion.
Hints for Sewing Various Seams
Always keep material to the left of presser foot, allowing seam
to extend to the right. This helps to prevent machine oil from soiling
goods and allows greater freedom of feeding than when garment
is allowed to pass under arm of machine.View original page 14Page 15 · Read text
ln stitching a skirt, all patterns are made so that the seams must
be stitched from the top down. This is true of every seam in a
garment. In stitching a blouse, the shoulder seams are stitched
from the neck down, and the under-arm and sleeve seams are
stitched from the armhole down. This is also true when sewing bias
seams on a skirt. It should be stitched from the waist line down in
order that the pattern will come together correctly, However, there
are exceptions. For example when stitching pile fabrics such as
velveteen and corduroy, always stitch with the pile, or from lower
edge of skirt to waistline, etc.
When sewing a bias edge to a straight edge, place the straight
edge against the feed. Hold the bias edge toward you in order to
adiust and ease the fullness in to prevent its stretching.
The Seam Guide
The seam guide is a help in straight
stitching. The guide is fastened to the
machine by means of the thumb screw,
as shown in Fig. 2]. It can be adiusted
to various distances from the needle as
desired.
The first practice with the machine
after understanding the threading, ten-
sions, etc., is straight stitching. At first,
use strips of paper without thread and
then saw on muslin, stitching several
rows close together. Always use a ”9.” 5.0,“ GM.
double piece of material when prac- '
ticing stitching.
Regulating the length of Stitch
The length of stitch should be regulated to suit the thread and
material that is to be used. In other words, after giving all other
conditions careful attention, do not spoil your sewing by using a
stitch that is too long and coarse.
When stitching fine material, use a fine needle, fine thread and
a short stitch. Heavy material requires a coarse needle and thread
and a longer stitch.
Between I2 to 15 stitches to the inch makes a desirable stitch
for ordinary sewing. To count the stitches, with machines on which
the stitch length is not shown, sew on a double thickness of muslin,
measure off one inch with a ruler and count the stitches.
I3View original page 15Page 17 · Read text
Machine 221-1. To change the length of
stitch, turn the thumb nut B, Fig. 25 away from
the stitch indicator plate A as far as it will go.
Then move the stitch regulator lever C until it
is in line with the number designating the de-
sired length of stitch and turn the thumb nut B
inward until it touches the indicator plate. The
machine will then make the indicated number of
stitches to the inch in either a forward or reverse
direction, depending upon whether the lever C
is at its lowest or highest position.
To feed the material in reverse direction,
raise the stitch regulating lever C as high as it
will go. The direction of the feed can be reversed . _
. . . . Stitch Regulatingat any potnt tn a seam Without removmg the In“ on 22“
work from the machine. Machine
Machine 30]. To change the length of
stitch, turn the thumb screw on the stitch
regulator lever Y, Fig. 26 away from the
stitch indicator plate X as far as necessary.
Then move the stitch regulator lever until
it is in line with the desired number of
stitches to the inch and turn the thumb
screw inward only until it touches the stitch
indicator plate, The machine will then make
the indicated number of stitches to the inch
, _ in either a forward or reverse direction,
l'gʼ 26' Regulator leversm‘h on depending on whether the lever Y is at its
30! Machine lowest or highest position.
To feed the material in reverse direction, raise the stitch regu~
lator lever Y as high as it will go. The direction of feed can be
reversed at any point of a seam without removing the work from
the machine.
On Machines of Classes 66 and 99, fitted with reverse feed, the
reverse feed should be used only for back tacking and not for con-
tinuous reverse feeding.
The direction of feed and length of stitch are regulated as in-
structed above for Machine 221, except that there is no thumb nut
B on the regulating lever.
Reverse Feeding on Fine Materials
Although long seams may be made in medium and heavy
materials on Machines 15-88 to 15-91, 201, 221 and 301, while
feeding toward the operator. the reverse feed should be used only
for short back tacking in thin or sheer goods. Such fine material
will tend to pucker if the reverse feed is used for more than about
1/2 inch.
15View original page 17Page 18 · Read text
Adiusting the Pressure on the Presser Bar
The presser foot rests on the feed dog, hold-
ing the cloth in position while the machine is
sewing. The pressure should be regulated ac-
cording to the fabric to be stitched, heavy
enough to prevent the material from rising
with the needle and still enable the work to
feed along smoothly. A pressure that is too
heavy will cause the machine to run hard and
will leave the print of the feed on fine mate-
rials.
increase the pressure by turnlng the adiust-
ing screw, at the top of the presser bar, to the
right. lighten the pressure by turning the ad-
iusting screw to the left. See Fig. 27. The
heavier the material, the more pressure is re-
quired except with pile fabrics (corduroy and
velveteen) when a lighter pressure is advis-
fig. 27. Regulating able, Fine materials require a light pressure.
the Pressure
Cleaning and Oiling
Sewing machines require daily oiling and
cleaning if they are used continuously all day. If used moderately,
a few hours a day, oiling and cleaning once or twice a week is
sufficient. A sewing machine, like all other machinery, will not give
proper satisfaction if the working parts are allowed to become dry
or gummed with a poor grade of oil. A sewing machine that has
not received the proper care will run hard and considerable energy
is wasted by using a machine in this condition. Always remove dust,
lint, threads, etc., before oiling any part of the machine or stand,
especially in and around the shuttle race.
Oiling the Machine Head
The equipment neces-
sary for the proper
cleaning of the machine
consists of a piece of
cheese cloth, a large
screwdriver, a small
screwdriver and a stil-
etto.
Care should be taken
to use high-grade ma-
chine oil and one drop
should be applied to Fig. 28. Cleaning and Oiling the Head
each bearing and each
point where there is any friction. it is poor economy to use oil of
doubtful quality, as it may gum on the working parts.
loView original page 18Page 19 · Read text
It is best to be safe and purchase oil from the sewing machine
manufacturer, who is interested in having it specially prepared for
sewing machines. Many household oils are not suitable for sewing
machine use.
When planning a thorough oiling, remove the upper thread.
slide plate, bobbin, bobbin case, needle and presser foot. Take out
the screws in the throat plate (the plate, A, Fig. 28, directly under
the presser foot, through which the needle passes) and remove the
throat plate. This will enable you to clean and oil the shuttle race.
On the 66 and 99 Class Machines, the oscillating hook is lubricated
by oil from a piece of red felt C, Fig. 28, which touches the top of
the hook. This felt wiper should be kept moist with oil at all times.
if ”H- ~ . ~ The face plate should also be removed
by taking out screw 8, Fig. 28 to give ac-
cess to the ailing points on the needle
bar, presser bar and thread take-up.
Put one drop of oil into each oil hole and
joint.
Release the belt from the band wheel
by turning the lever of the belt shifter.
Fig. 29, to the left while the machine is
running. To replace the belt after releas-
ing, place the feet on the treadle and
_ start the band wheel in the proper direc-
l — - tion. The belt will be thrown on the
”9- 29.11" ”‘l' Shll'" wheel automatically. Never throw the
belt off to the left side of the band wheel, as it is difficult to replace
it from this side.
After releasing the belt, turn back the head of the machine in
Order to reach the ailing points on the under side. By turning the
hand wheel slowly you will be able to observe all working parts.
Place a single drop of oil at each point, as this is sufficient to lubri-
cate the machine. After oiling all points on the under side, lower the
head into sewing position and oil each point on top of the arm.
Wipe away all surplus oil, thread up the machine and stitch on a
waste piece of material until all surplus oil that might drip onto the
goods being sewn has been worked out.
When a machine is used frequently, it is not necessary to re-
move the throat plate, slide, bobbin and bobbin case each time the
machine is oiled; but this should be done whenever a thorough
cleaning and oiling is required.
Do Not Lubricate Motor on any machine except 15-91, 15-125,
201-2 and 221-1. To lubricate these motors, see instruction book
accompanying these machines.View original page 19Page 20 · Read text
Oiling the Bobbin Winder
To insure smooth running of the bobbin
winder, the ailing points should be ob- in
served and care taken to see that they are turns”
not neglected when the rest of the machine
is oiled. See Fig. 30. if the winder is to be
used immediately after oiling, do not sit in
front of it. If too much oil has been applied,
it is liable to be thrown and sail your
clothes. Do not allow oil to come in contact
with the rubber ring on the bobbin winder,
as oil softens the rubber and causes it to
slip on the hub of the hand wheel. When
this happens, the only remedy is to replace fie- 30. om” H"
"W fing- Bobbin Winder
Removing Gummed Oil
lf the machine has been idle for several weeks and runs hard,
it is probably due to gummed oil. When a machine has become
gummed, all working parts should be thoroughly oiled with
SINGER‘ Sewing Machine Oil. Thiswill loosen the old oil if not too
badly gummed. Run the machine rapidly for a few minutes and
wipe thoroughly with a piece of cheese cloth. if the machine does
not run freely after this treatment, it should be examined by a
skilled sewing machine adiuster.
COMMON CAUSES OF MACHINE TROUBLES
Causes of Upper Thread Breaking
Machine improperly threaded (see instruction book).
Tensions too tight (see page TO).
Needle bent or having blunt point (see page 8).
Thread too coarse for size of needle (see instruction book).
Needle too fine for size of thread and material to be sewn (see
chart on page 63).
Burr on needle hole in throat plate (caused by breaking needle
when pulling material from machine).
Burr on needle hole in presser foot (caused from sewing aver
pins or breaking needle).
Needle incorrectly set (see page 9).
Needle too long for machine, or not all the way up in clamp.
Take-up spring bent or broken (send for adiuster to repair).
Tension discs worn so that thread works in groove (send for
adiuster to repair).View original page 20Page 21 · Read text
Causes of lower Thread Breaking
b Improper threading of bobbin case or shuttle (see instruction
ookL
Tension too tight (see page 10).
Thread wound unevenly on bobbin or bobbin wound too full
(see page 6).
Spring on bobbin case or shuttle worn to sharp edge.
Burr on under side of throat plate (sometimes caused by sewing
over pins or breaking needle).
To Avoid Breaking Needles
Do not sew heavy seams with too fine a needle.
Use proper site of needle for thread and material to be sewn
(see chart on page 63).
See that the presser foot or attachments are securely fastened
to the presser bar and that the needle does not strike the edge of
the hole or slot in the presser foot or attachment.
Do not pull the material to one side when taking it from the
machine. The needle may become bent and strike the side of the
hole in the throat plate when starting to sew (see page 8).
Do not pull material when sewing. The needle may become
bent and strike the back of the needle hole.
Do not bend the needle when pulling out the material before
cutting thread (see page 12).
Do not use a needle that is too long. It is liable to come in con-
tact with the bobbin case and break, probably spoiling the case
and requiring replacement. (Use warranted SINGER needles in
SINGER machines. See page 63).
Do not leave pins in the material after basting and do not sew
aver them with the machine.
Skipping Stitches
Needle blunt, bent or not correctly set into the needle bar.
Needle too small for the thread used.
Needle too short for the machine.
Stitches looping
Looped stitches are usually caused by an improper tension. If
the loop is on the upper side, it may be corrected by tightening the
under tension. If the leap occurs on the under side, it may usually
be corrected by tightening the upper tension (see page 10).
See that both the upper and lower threading is correct, that
the thread is of good quality and the correct size for the needle.
Test both tensions and stitch on the same material to be sewn.
looping of stitches is sometimes caused by the placing of the
bobbin in the bobbin case or shuttle so that the thread pulls from
the wrong side of the bobbin, or by the bobbin being wound too
fully. (See instruction book.)
19View original page 21Page 22 · Read text
Machine Not Feeding Properly
Improper feeding is often due to the pressure being too light
for the material to be sewn (see page 16).
The feed dog may be worn smooth. This may be determined by
running the finger over the feed dog teeth. If they are not sharp,
the feed dog should be replaced with a new one by a competent
adjuster.
The stitch regulator may have been set so that the feed is en-
tirely out of action.
On machines having a feed throw-out device, the feed throw-
out thumb screw may not be tightened all the way.
Heavy accumulation of lint on top of feed dog or underneath
throat plate. Remove throat plate to clean.
Machine Working Heavily
If the machine works heavily after standing, it is probably
gummed and needs a general cleaning (see page 18).
The belt may be too tight and hence putting excessive pressure
on the bearings.
Accumulation of gum and dirt around treadle and wheel bear-
ings will cause treadle to work heavily.
Sometimes thread becomes wound around the hub of the hand
wheel and the ends of the band wheel crank. With constant
running and contact with oil the thread works in next to the bear-
ings so tightly that it makes the machine run heavily. When this
happens, remove the thread with a stilletto or other sharp instru-
ment.
Puckered Seams
Tension is too tight.
Stitch too long for material being sewn, especially on fine
material.
Wrong presser foot used. It is always best to use only the
presser foot provided for each machine, as they are, in some cases,
not interchangeable.
Noisy Treadle
if the treadle is noisy, the screWs on which it is pivoted need
tightening. Release one of the screws by backing of? the nut one or
two turns with a wrench, place a screwdriver in the slot of the
screw and advance the screw toward the treadle iust enough to
take up the slack. Tighten the nut and test the treadle. If still noisy.
repeat the operation on the other side.
If the types of sewing machine used in your school are dif-
ferent from those described in this book, refer to the instruction
book accompanying the machine for particular details.View original page 22Page 23 · Read text
Threading Vibrating or long Shuttle Machine No. 127
Upper Threading Under Threading
Hold the shuttle be-
tween the thumb and
fingers of the left
hand as shawn. Place
the bobbin into the
shuttle with the
thread drawing to-
ward the right from
the side of the bob-
bin nearest you.
Place the forefing-
er of the left hand on
the end of the bobbin
and draw the thread
downward into the
long slot in the shuttle
as far as it will go.
Then draw the
thread straight up-
ward and under the
tension spring until
the bobbin begins to
unwind.
Turn the hand wheel ever toward
you until the thread take-up lever 4 is
raised to its highest point. Place the spool
of thread on the spool pin at the top of
the machine, lead the thread into the
thread guide 1 at the top of the face
plate, down, under and from right to left
between the tension discs 2, into the small
wire spring 3 at the left of the tension Drawing Up the Under Thread
discs, up and from front to back through With the left hand held the end of
the hole in the end of the thread take~up the needle thread, leaving it slack
lever 4, down into the eyelet 5 in front of from the hand to the needle, turn the
the face plate, into the lower wire guide hand wheel over toward you until
the needle moves down and up again
6, then from left to right through the eye to its highest point, thus catching the
of the needle 7. under thread; draw up the needle
thread and the under thread will come
Draw about two inches of thread up with it through the hole in the
through the eye of the needle with which throat plate. lay both threads baclr
to start sewing. under the presser foot.View original page 23Page 24 · Read text
Threading Oscillating Hook Machine No. 66
Upper Threading Under Threading
Hold the bobbin between the thumb and
forefinger of the left hand, the thread lead‘
ing on top from the right toward the left.
Raise the thread takevup lever 5 to
its highest point by turning the Place the bobbin into the bobbin can and
hand wheel over toward you. Place the draw the thread into the slot in the bobbin
spool of thread on the spool pin; lead case at the left (see 1).
the thread into the thread guide 1 at
the left and near the top of the arm,
down, under and from right to left
between the tension discs 2, into the
small wire spring 3 at the left of the
discs, under the thread regulator 4
at the loft (not through the eye of the
thread regulator 9 which is used only
let darning and embroidery). op and
from right to left through the eyelet 5
in the end of the thread take~up lever,
down into the eyelet in front of the
face plate 6, into the lower wire guide Draw the thread backward between the
7, then from left to right through the bobbin case and the tension spring until it
eye of the needle 8. Draw about two reaches the notch (see 2), then pull the thread
inches of thread through the needle with the left hand toward the right as illus-
with which to start sewing. trated, and close the slide.
22View original page 24Related documents and language editions
SingerPDF
1800s Singer Sewing Machine Catalog
Product catalog
36 pages · EnglishRead →
SingerPDF
1896 Singer Sewing Machine Catalog
Product catalog
254 pages · EnglishRead →
SingerPDF
1910 Singer Sewing Machine Catalog - Australiasia
Product catalog
20 pages · EnglishRead →
SingerPDF
1912 Singer Sewing Machine Catalog
Product catalog
242 pages · EnglishRead →
SingerPDF
1924 Singer Sewing Machine Catalog
Product catalog
319 pages · EnglishRead →
SingerPDF
1926 Singer Sewing Machine Catalog
Product catalog
12 pages · EnglishRead →
SingerPDF
Singer's Sewing Skills Reference Book
Reference guide
60 pages · EnglishRead →
From the ISMACS International. Original publisher and archive notices are retained.
Check the model and edition against your equipment.
PDF verified 2026-10-11.