Sewing machines
Davis New Minnesota Model A — User manual
User manual for Davis New Minnesota Model A. 20 pages in English. Read the original PDF, download or print a copy without registration.
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- Davis
- Model / document
- Davis New Minnesota Model A
- Document type
- User manual
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- English
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- 20
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- 50.3 MB
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- Sewing machines
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Page 1 · Read text
READ CAREFULLY
DIRECTIONS
FOR USING
THE NEW
MINNESOTA
MODEL A
Sewing Machine
SILENT AND
LICt RUNNINGView original page 1Page 2 · Read text
CENERAL DIRECTIONS.
Every machine before leaving the factory has been carefully adjusted
and minutely inspected, and its sewing qualities have been tested on every
class of work and found perfect in every respect.
Before the machine is used, care should be taken to clean and oil it
thoroughly, according to instructions; but do not tamper with the ad-
justments of the machine until you fully understand how to handle it.
Avoid unnecessary meddling with the working parts or adjustments at
all times, as serious trouble may result from tampering with the machine.
Do not allow tramp repairers or incompetent parties to attempt to
repair the machine.
Careful attention to the instructions in the book and a little practice
will soon enable the learner to operate the machine and all the attach-
ments.
Practice on strips of cloth and do not attempt to do practical sewing
until you have learned to guide the work properly and produce an even
motion in running.
Do not try to use the attachments until you are thoroughly familiar
with plain sewing and can handle the machine easily. If a machine gives
trouble it will almost invariably result from one of the following causes:
Improper setting of the needle, a crooked or blunt needle, poor thread, er
the needle not being the right size for the thread used.
Be sure to read all the instructions carefully and do not consider it a
waste of time, even if you have used other machines.
When ordering needles, shuttles, or parts of any kind, always give the
plate number of machine, which will be found stamped on top of the
front slide, directly in front of the needle.
Never run the machine when it is threaded up unless there la cloth
der the presser foot. If you do the thread will snarl and tangle and
may break the needle.
Do not run the machine with the presser foot resting on the feed and
no cloth between, or the sharp teen of the feed will injure the foot and
the feed teeth will be dulled.
Never run the machine with either of the race covers open, except to
turn the wheel very slowly by hand, or the shuttle will catch and cause
serious damage.
Do not try to help the feed mulling the work, lest you bend or break
the needle. The machine will feea thout assistance.
Do not allow lint or dust to accur late inside the shuttle, nor under
the shuttle tension spring. Any subst: nce inside the shuttle will prevent
the bobbin revolving freely, and anything under the spring will interfere
with a perfect tension.
To turn a corner, stop the machine, with the needle at least half way
down in the goods, raise the presser foot by means of the lifter at the
back and turn the work as desired, using the needle as & pivot.
After using the machine always Clean it well before putting it away.View original page 2Page 3 · Read text
5
OIL-
OIL
-G
-OLL
TO THREAD THE MACHINE.
(SEE CUT ABOVE.)
Before the machine leaves the factory it has been carefully inspectedand
tested with various sizes of thread from No. 40 linen to No. 150 cotton andfound
to work perfectly on all kinds of goods. The machine is sent out properly
threaded and care should be taken to observe how it is threaded when received.
It may, however, become unthreaded in transportation, in which case the oper-
ator should carefully observe the following directions:
Raise the needle bar to its highest point.
Place the spool of thread on the spool pin on top of arm as shown in cut;
draw the thread through the hook A above the tension, then down between the
tension disks B and up through the hook C at the left of the tension; then
through the take-up eye D, then back of the staple E on the bottom of the face
plate, drawing the thread forward so it will slip under the staple on the back
side;needle.then through the hook in the needle yoke F; then through the eye of the
Leave the end of the thread extending from the needle about three inches
long.View original page 3Page 4 · Read text
TO THREAD THE SHUTTLE.
Hold the shuttle in the left hand with the point of the shuttle toward the
operator. Drop the bobbin into the open end of the shuttle, turning the bobbin
so that the thread will draw from the under side of the bobbin when sewing,
then draw the thread toward you into the open slot in the shuttle marked B, at
the same time pressing a finger against the end of the bobbin so it will not turn.
Continue drawing the thread through the slot toward the point of the shuttle
until it is forced under the point A on the shuttle tension spring. The shuttle
is then ready for use.
TO ADJUST THE SHUTTLE TENSION.
The shuttle tension is adjusted by means of the screw C, using the small
shuttle screwdriver. Turn the screw to the right to tighten the tension and to
the left to loosen the tension on the thread.When the machine leaves the
factory the tension in the shuttle has been set exactly right for all ordinary
work and the kinds of thread generally used. It therefore needs no alteration.
The bore of the shuttle should be kept clean and clear of lint so the bobbin can
revolve freely and so the end of the bobbin does not project outside the shuttle
TO PLACE SHUTTLE IN THE MACHINE.
Draw out the front race cover or slide and place the shuttle in the shuttle
carrier with the point of the shuttle toward the operator and the spring on top,
then close the slide. When using some of the attachments it will sometimes be
found more convenient to withdraw the back race cover and remove or replace
the shuttle when the carrier is at the back end of the race.
TO CLEAN THE SHUTTLE RACE.
The face of the shuttle race must be kept perfectly clean and entirely free
from dust or gum. It should be cleaned frequently by rubbing with a piece of
cloth having a drop of oil on it, then wipe it clean with a soft dry cloth. If the
shuttle race becomes very gummy, first clean it thoroughly with a cloth satur-
ated with benzine or kerosene, afterward using an oiled cloth and then a dry
clean cloth as above explained. Breaking of thread and skipping of stitches
are often caused by failure to keep the shuttle race clean.View original page 4Page 5 · Read text
7
144 145
TO SET THE NEEDLE.
Raise the needle bar to its highest point and loosen the needle yoke
aut (No. 145-See illustration). Hoid the needle between the thumb and
irst finger of the left hand and pass the shank of the needle up through
the hole in the needle yoke (No. 144) as far as it will go, with the flat side
of the shank toward the needle bar. Then secure the needle firmly by
rightening the nut (No. 145). If linen or silk thread, or very coarse cotton is to be
used in sewing, the needle may be set a little lower than directed, so that the end of
che shank or the needle does not quite come up to the stop in the needle bar.
TO AVOID BREAKING NEEDLES.
When a needle is broken it is, in nearly every case, the fault of the
operator, and caused by pulling the work, so that the needle strikes
the throat plate, when it is bound to break. A needle may also be
broken by sewing heavy seams or very thick goods without having
the pressure on the presser foot as heavy as it should be for such work.
To increase the pressure on the goods turn the presser nut on top of the
presser bar to the right.. To decrease the pressure,for light work, turn
the presser nut to the left. A blunt needle or one with a hooked pcint
will cause trouble and prevent good work.
TO REGULATE THE LENCTH OF STITCH.
The stitch regulator is in front of the base of the arm, directly under
the bobbin winder. On the stitch regulator plate is a scale of numbers
which indicate the length of stitch. These numbers-No. 7, No. 10, No.
16 and No. 24-show the number of stitches to the inch. To obtain the
length of stitch desired, loosen the thumb nut by turning it to the left
and set the indicator with the pointer at the proper number. No. 24
gives the shortest stitch and No. 7 the longest. You can vary the stitches
from the scale by setting the pointer between the numbers. Be sure to
rasten the nut tightly after setting the indicator. To turn the stitch off
entirely, set the pointer at o.View original page 5Page 6 · Read text
8
EUCHASEE
FRICTION
LIGHTEN
TO WIND BOBBINS. •
(See Illustration above.)
The Hand Wheel Friction Nut has a right hand thread.
For Winding Bobbins hold the hand wheel with the left hand and with the right hand
turn the hand wheel Friction Nut (as narked in cut to the left or toward you-that is in th
diraction shown in cut by the arrow under the word "I,0OSEN." his will loosen the
pulley so the belt will run without turning the hand wheel or moving the sewing parts of the
Place the belt back of the grooved wheel on the bobbin winder (H) as illustrated
cut on he boerin tai the octed the sha lie (2) is aste riotte detaine other. da ol che
bobbin in the socket of the step (L,) on the left side, pulling the step nut (M) toward the left
to admit the bobbin and letting it spring back into place
Catch the end of the thread between the brass end of the bobbin and the socket of the
spindle (K) on the right side. Carry the thread through the slot in the end of the feed lever
T), then through the eye (N) at the lower end of the lever. When winding hold the thread
between the fingers but not too tight. An evenly and smoothly wound bobbin is necessary to
Do not fill the bobbin too full or it will not revolve freely in the shuttle.
A very hitle oit should be placed on the left hand end of the bobbin where it runs in the socket
of the step (L) and the spindle should be kept oiled through the oil hole (O).
When through winding bobbins remove the belt from the back of the grooved wheel (H)
and turn the hand wheel friction nut to the right or in the direction indicated by
underThethethreadword "TIcHter"should winduntilevenlyit onis thetightbobbinand theand machinefill it isalikereadyat forbothsewing,ends. his is regu-
lated by the finger or feed lever (J). If one endfills faster thanthe other the
should be bent slightly toward the end on which the least thread is wound. If it winds too
fast on the middle of the bobbin bend the feed lever slightly away from the bobbin.
bobbin should fill a little faster on the ends than in the middle. Be sure to stop winding before
thread is wound higher than the brass ends of the bobbin.View original page 6Page 7 · Read text
9
TO REGULATE THE PRESSURE.
The amount of pressure on the work is regulated by means of the thumb nut
on top of the presser bar. Turn this nut to the right to increase the pressure
and to the left to decrease the pressure. In sewing heavy or hard fabrics a
heavier pressure is required than for light goods. A lack of sufficient pressure
on the work will sometimes cause skipping of stitches because the presser foot
does not hold the goods firmly on the throat plate when the stitch is drawn.
TO COMMENCE TO SEW.
The machine having been properly threaded above and below as explained
in the preceding directions raise the presser bar and raise the needle to its high-
est point and the machine is ready for sewing. Place the goods under the press-
erfoot with the needle directly over the point where you desire to commence
stitching. Lower the presser bar by dropping the lifter at the back of the face
plate. Then start the machine by turning the hand wheel toward you.
TO REMOVE THE WORK FROM THE MACHINE.
Stop the machine with the needle at its highest point, and raise the presser
foot by means of the lifter. Press against the tension release with the right thumb
and with the left hand draw the work directly back from under the needle.
Then draw the threads over the thread cutter on the back side of the presser
Dar and the work is free.
TO TIGHTEN THE BELT.
The leather belt which transmits power from the balance wheel on the stand
to the hand wheel on the head should always be tight enough not to slip on the
pulley. It should not be too tight or it will cause the machine to run hard. If
the belt is too loose it should be made shorter. Unfasten the belt hook and cut
off squarely about one-half inch from one end of the belt. Punch a holefor the
hook in the end that has been cut and couple the belt.
TO TAKE OFF THE PRESSER FOOT,
Raise the needle bar to its highest point, loosen the nut just above the
presser foot by turning it to the left until the foot is free. It can then be drawr
of toward the operator.View original page 7Page 8 · Read text
10
THE TENSIONS.
The object to be attained is to have the stitch alike on both sides of the
fabric. This is accomplished by the tensions, or strain upon both threads.
The tension upon both threads should be as nearly alike as possible, and tight
enough only to make a smooth, firm seam. If the threads are of the proper
size for the material used, and both tensions right, the threads will be drawn
and locked together in the center of the goods, thus:
If the upper tension is too loose (or the lower one
too tight), the lower thread will lie straight along the under side of the goods,
thus: ? the upper thread showing in loops on the under side. On
contrary, if the upper tension is too tight (or thethez
shuttle tension is too loose), the upper thread will lie straight on the upper
side of the goods, thus: F f the lower thread showing in loops
on the upper side.
To tighten the upper tension, turn the tension nut to the right.
To loosen the upper tension, turn the tension nut to the left.
As the shuttle tension has been set right for general work when the machine
leaves our hands, as before explained, any needed regulation of the stitch in
this respect should ordinarily be made by changing the upper tension. If, how-
ever, when the upper tension is regulated so the lock is in the center of the
goods, both threads appear to beloose and the stitches and seam not smooth
at d firm, the shuttle tension is too loose, and should be tightened by turning
tle tension screw C to the right (see cut, page), then tighten the upper tension
correspondingly.
If the under thread cannot be properly drawn up without having the upper
tension so tight that the threads break, or if when the tensions are evenly
balanced, the goods are "drawn" or "puckered" (this will occur only in sewing
very light and "slazy" fabrics), the shuttle tension is too tight, and should be
loosened by turning the shuttle tension screw C to the left; then loosen the
upper tension to correspond.
The above particular explanation is given that every operator may fully un-
derstand the principles of the tensions.View original page 8Page 9 · Read text
11
SIZES OF NEEDLES AND THREAD.
Size of CLASS OF WORK TO SEW Size of Cotton, Linen or Silk
Needle
Very thin Muslin, Cambrics, Linen, etc. 100 to 200 Cotton,
00 000 to 00 Si ≤ Twist.
Very fine Calicoes, Linens, Shirtings, fine Silk Goods, etc. 70- oR Cotton,
0 ( silk 1 wist.
1 Shirtings.general domesticSheetings,goods,Bleachedand allMuslins,classesCalicoes,of generalSilkworkand A 79andtr:B Silk51 Cotton,Twist.
2 Al Silk,iz, seanSeaming,hes, stitching,Calicoes,etc.light Wooden Goods, heavy 50C Silkto 36 Twist.Cotten
Tickings, Woolen Goods, Trousers, Boys' Clothing corsets, 36 to 20 Cotton,
Cloaks, Mantles, etc. D Silk Twist.
20 to 10 Cotton,
1 Heavyetc.,Woolens,and HeavyTickings,Clothing generally.Bags, Heavy Coats Iousers, 60£ 51kto 80T Linen.wist,
USE GOOD NEEDLES AND THREAD.
Do not use poor thread or imperfect needles. Any good thread will co
good work on this machine. but you must not expect too make smooth, even
stitches with rough, uneven thread. Neither will the machine work well with a
cheap, inferior grade of needles. It is our interest to maintain the reputation
of our machines and we can always supply the best needles at as low prices as
possible. Orders can be sent direct to a by mail with money enclosed and will
be filled promptly. When ordering always mention size of needles desired and
give plate number of your machine, which will be found stamped on top of the
front shuttle slide directly in front of the needle.
Always use exactly the right size of needle for the thread used, as per table
above. Do not use too large a size uf thread for the work. If the thread is too
coarse to be properly bedded into the fabric a smooth even seam cannot be ob-
tained.When sewing two thicknesses of calico or shirting, No. 70 is stronger
than the thread woven in the fabric and will make a handsome stitch. The seam
will also wear longer than if coarser thread is used, because with coarse thread
the stitches lie on top of the fabric and are first worn away.
To Use Silk Thread.-A finer nee e is required for silk thread, ard for
using fine silk thread the tensions should be tightened, because silk thread, be-
ing loosely woven, will not be caught by a loose tension. It is also advisable to
set the needle a trifle lower or so that shank of the needle does not extend so fas
as it will go in the needle bar.View original page 9Page 10 · Read text
12
NARROW HEMMING.
Attach the hemmer foot in place of the presser foot, taking care that it
stands true and straight with the feed. Raise the hemmer to the lowest lift, clip
off the right hand corner of the cloth and turn up the edge about one-fourth of
an inch. Insert it in the scroll (or mouth) of the hemmer and push it forward
to the needle. Then let the hemmer down and start the machine, gently hold-
ing back on the work to keep it smooth, allowing the edge of the goods to pass
between the thumb and forefinger of the right hand while it is being hemmed,
keeping the scroll of the hemmer just full, as it will leave a raw edge and make
a rough and clumsy hem if there is too much turned in, and too little will not
turn under. In hemming on a curve or on flannel or slazy goods, draw gently
on the edge being hemmed, resisting the feed, and guide the work carefully.
The stitch may be laid close to the edge of the hem, or away from it, by
setting the hemmer to or from the needle, by swinging the hemmer to the right
or left. Practice is necessary with both hemming and felling before a neat seam
can be produced.View original page 10Page 11 · Read text
13
FELLING.
The foot hemmer and the feller are the same. If the hemmer is attached
it can be used in place of the presser foot in running up the seam,the under
edge of which should project about one-fourth of an inch beyond the upper, then
trim off the edges, if necessary, so as to leave just seam enough to fill the feller.
Open the work flat, wrong side up, and trimthe corner of the seam slightly,
and then push it into the feller until it reaches the needle, lower the feller
on the feed and start the machine. The feed-will carry the seam without help-
ing it, and makes a complete fell from the beginning.
The feller may be adjusted to the right or left, so as to sew close on the edge
of the fell, or away from it as desired.View original page 11Page 12 · Read text
14
MAKING WIDE HEM WITH HEMMER AND FELLER.
If a wider hem is desired than can be made with any of the hemmers, pro-
ceed as foliows :
Adjust the hemmer and feller as described on page 12.
Fold the cloth the with of the hem and place the fold to the right of the
eedle so that the edge of the folded part will easily enter the scroll of the hem-
mer and feller. Proceed as in ordinary narrow hemming, taking care to keep
the fold smooth, as shown in cut above.View original page 12Page 13 · Read text
15
TO MAKE A HEM AND SEW ON LACE AT ONE
OPERATION.
Attach the hemmer and feller and hem as already described. After
one or two stitches have been made in the hem, raise the presser bar and
needle,the needlepassdescends,the edge ofandthedrawlace intothe theendslotunderof thethehemmerneedle;throughlet downwhichthe
hemmer and begin sewing, holding the goods as shown in the above
illustration.
TO DO HEMSTITCHING.
Hemstitching can be made on this machine by the following method:
Fold blotting paper (or any other soft, thick paper which will tear
readily) until you get the thickness of paper the same as the opening you
desire to have in the hemstitching. Place one piece of goods under the
blotting paper, and the other on top of the paper; then place all under
the presser foot and sew them
should be doubled back and forthtogether.several timesAfterso asstitching,to creaseboththempieceswell
exactly on the line of the stitches. Then fold all four edges in the same
direction and hold them firmly while you tear out the paper on each side
of the seam, after which you open the hemstitching by folding each piece
together on either side. One edge of either or both pieces can be cut
straight and passed through the hemmer, or you can stitch along the edge
of the hemstitching on one or both sides, and finish oft the double edge
as desired.View original page 13Page 14 · Read text
16
WIDE HEMMERS.
Four widths of hemmers are included in the regular set of attachments.
Remove the presser foot and attach the width of hemmer desired in place of
the foot on the presser bar, fastening it securely with the thumb nut.
Fold the goods by hand the width of hem required, turning one fold only,
adding about one-eighth of an inch, which will be turned under by the hemmer.
Then insert the goods in the hemmer, forcing it back until the needle will catch
the edge of the goods. Lower the presser foot and sew as usual. Slightly press
on the goods with the two forefingers of the left hand. If more goods are re-
quired to fill the hemmer and turn the edge properly, slightly carry the goods
to the right. If too much goods are taken, carry to the left.
The line of stitching can be adjusted to the edge of the hem by moing the
hemmer to the right or leftView original page 14Page 15 · Read text
TO USE THE TUCK MARKER.
Raise the presser bar to its highest point. Remove the presser foot anâ
attach the tucker in its place so that the needle passes down through the center
of the round hole in the foot of the tucker, then fasten it securely in this position.
To regulate the size of tuck, loosen screv? A and place the guage D for any
desired width, moving to the right for wide and to the left for narrow tuck.
To regulate the space between tucks, move the marker D to the left for wide
space and to the right for narrow.
The figures on the scale B show the width of tuck, and those on the scale
C the width of space.
By adjusting guage B and guage C so that the scale indicators will point to
the same figures it will make the tucks just meet. When the above adjustments
have been made, besure and turn screw A down tight.
To commence tucking fold the cloth for the first fuck and place it beneath
and under the spring lip in front of the creaser with folded edge against the
guage D. Drop the presser foot and sew as usual.
The marker makes a crease in the cloth as it passes over the blade. After
the first tuck is completed fold the cloth on the crease and place in the tucker
gain as before. Continue this operation for the required number of tucks.View original page 15Page 16 · Read text
18
TUCKING.
The illustration above shows how the Minnesota Tucker produces the work
when the directions on page 17 are carefully followed. The variety of combin-
nations is almost unlimited and either narrow or wide tucks can be made, either
close together or at a distance from each other as desired.View original page 16Page 17 · Read text
19
DIRECTIONS FOR USING THE RUFFLER.
Lemove the presser foot and attach the ruffler in its place on the
presser bar with the fork of the lever over the needle nut A.
goods to be gathered between the steel blades or springs. If the ruffle is
to be attached to a band, place the band below the lower blade.
To make a fine gather, shorten the stitch and turn the adjusting nut
B to its highest point.
Lo make plaits, turn the adjusting nut B downward to the desired
point and lengthen the stitch.
For full gathers, adjust the ruffer the same as in making plaits, using
a short stitch.
The length of the stitch should match the size of the gather or plait,
so the folds will lie even and not pile up on each other or be too far apart.
Directions for Shirring. Remove the lower blade of the rufiler by soosen-
ing the separator post screw on right side of rufiler as attached to the
machine. The lower blade of the ruffler may then be drawn forward.
Remove the shuttle slide and insert the shirring plate in its place, push-
ing it as far as it will go. Attach whe upper part of the rufier and insert
the gover use the ruler without either the rufling plate or shirring plate
Never run the machine with the ruffer on without goods be
againsttween thethesteellowerblades,blade willas dullthe themovementteeth andofsoonthe teethmakeonthetherufflerupperuseless.blade
The ruffler properly attached to the machine is clearly shown in the
above illustration.View original page 17Page 18 · Read text
20
TO ATTACH THE BINDER.
Raise the needle to its highest point; remove the presser foot and attach
the binder in its place on the presser, fastening it securely with the thumb nut.
The small end of the scroll of the binder should rest on the needle plate with
the upper scroll of the binder on a line with the needle.
TO DO BIAS BINDING.
Pass the binding through the scroll of the binder and draw it back under
the needle. Place the edge of the material to be bound between the upper and
lower scrolls, then lower the presser bar and sew as Guide the clotl
with the left hand, and let the binding glide easily through the fingers of the
right hand to keep it straight. If the stitching should be too near or too far
from the edge of the binding, the binder can be moved to the right or left, until
exactly right. For bias binding, goods of any description can be used, and the
binding should be cut three-quarters of an inch wide, and uniform in width.
If very light "slazy" material is used the binding should be cut a little wider
than three-quarters of an inch in order to have the edges properly turned under.
Ordinary dress binding can be used in the binder by the same method as
described above. When such binding is used the edge of the binding will not
be turned under.View original page 18Page 19 · Read text
21
TO USE THE UNDER BRAIDER.
Remove the front race cover and slide the braider in its place, as
shown above.Take off the regular presser foot and put on the special
foot with two short prongs. Draw the braid through the braider tube, as
shown in cut, raise the presser foot and see that the needle passes through
the center of the braid. If not, the braider tube can be moved to the
right or left, as necessary, by loosening the adjusting screw which should
be set tight when the tube is in proper position. Use a No. 1 needle and
about 16 length of stitch. The pattern should be marked or stamped on
the wrong side of the material.View original page 19Page 20 · Read text
*NG.
After setting the braiding attacument in position, and inserting the
braid as described on page 21,wice the goods on the braider and under
Ure presser foot, with the patter. _ de up, and so the needle will be directly
baroverandthe sewpointaswhereusual,youguidingdesiretheto commencematerial sobraiding.the needleLowerwill thefollowpresserthe
pattern. The braid will be stitche, on the under side of the goods, as
shown in illustration above.
he machine while the needle is on its first rise and
cloth at the point where the vibrator slightly raises the presser foot and
swing the cloth round on the needle. Care must be taken in turning
cloth, not to pull the needle, thereby causing it to strike the plate and
bend or break.
NOTE.--All the attention that need be given to the braid is to have
it pass freely and smoothly through the braider. The bunch or spool of
braid may lay in the lap of the operator.
When you have finished braiding turn out the vibrator screw V even
with face plate.
TO APPLIQUE WITH BRAID.
Baste the goods to be appliqued on the background.Have pattern on
wrong side of background. Braid design as above; cut out the upper
goods around the design. This leaves the design appliqued on the back
ground.View original page 20From the ISMACS International. Original publisher and archive notices are retained.
Check the model and edition against your equipment.
PDF verified 2026-10-11.





