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BOOR 400 W B 0-15 5M.
DESRSUNSSSABSBBELSSRUD

  INSTRUCTIONS
HANDFOROPERATING THIS
   SEWING MACHINE

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§ INDEX.





 To Oil the Machine

  To the Learner

 General Remarks

 To Set the Needle

 To Wind the Bobbin

 To Thread the Shuttle

 To Place the Shuttle .

 Lower Thread Breaking

  Threading Machine

  To Regulate the Tensions                  8
Upper Thread Breaking

! To Drav Up Shuttle Thread               9
                                      9
MissingRead forStitchesSewing                         10

Length of Stitch                          10

 To Remove Work                      10

  To Adiust Presser Foot
 Gauge                                  11

  To Hemstitch
                                         11
To Remove the Foot                                         11
 To Select Needles and Thread            12
 Outfit                           12
  Foot Hemmer and Feller               13
 Felling.                          14
  To Hem and Sew on Lace              14
 Quilting                           15

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OIL                                   oil.Oil the bobbin-winder in places where there is

                                                                                  any friction.
   Poor        oil            is dearer                      than                           good                                oil,                                     because                                             it                                                ruins                                                      the
 parts       of          the              machine                      and                          does                               not                                   last                                        as                                           long.                                                 It              TO THE LEARNER.
 makes the machine run hard: corrodes and eats into
 the bearings, making them rough and hard to operate.                     A little time given to the study of the instructions,
 It clogs and fills up the of holes, so that, unless the                 before commencing to use the Machine, will be found of
operator carefully and laboriously picks out the holes,                 great advantage. Any-one can learn to use this Sewing
 the oil cannot penetrate to the bearings and soon the                  Machine. It is simple in construction, and requires so
 machine begins to run hard. Be sure you get the best.                  little change for any kind of work, that its operation

                                                                        can be easily understood.

                                                                              Attention to the instructions here given, and a little

                                                                         practice, will soon enable the learner to successfully

                                                                        operate the Machine.

                                                                          Do not attempt to use the Attachments until you can
                                                                   manage the Machine with ease on plain sewing

                                                                     The cause of a machine not working properly will
                                                                     be found, ninety-nine times out of a hundred, in the

                                                                        improper setting of the needle, the use of poor thread,

                                                                         or a size too large for the needle, or in the wrong ad-

                                                                           justment of the tensions.

                                                                           If at any time the Machine fails to perform its work

                                                                          properly refer to the instruction book to ascertain the
                                                                    cause. This will help you out of the tramble if you

                                                                               carefully follow the directions.

                                                                       For example, if your machine misses stitches, you
                                                                 turn to the index: (inside front cover), "Missing
                                                                    Stitches." On page 9 you read, " Should there at any

                                                                            time be skipped or long stitches at intervals, it is owing
                                                                            to the needle being set too low, or its having become
                                                                         bent away from the shuttle, or its being too small for
                                                               the thread in use, etc., etc." You will therefore be
                                                                 able to easily remedy the trouble. We advise a care-
                                                                               ful perusal of " General Remarks.
                                                  Do not allow lint or dust to accumulate in the shuttle

                                                                         or under the shuttle tension spring, as any foreign sub-

                                                                             stance inside the shuttle (particularly in the inner end)

   If the machine runs hard after standing idle for some                   will prevent the proper action of the bobbin, and under
time, use a little kerosene oil in the usual way and run               the tension spring will render the shuttle tension

rapidly, then wipe clean, and oil with the best prepared                    inoperative.

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TO SET THE NEEDLE. GENERAL REMARKS.

First loosen the screw that clamps the needle and
The presser foot must never be let down on the feed,
push to the left sufficient to allow the shank to enter;
unless when you are sewing and have cloth under it.
allow the needle bar to rest at its highest point; then
When the shuttle is in, the machine must not be run take the needle (with the flat side of shank towards
with either of the shuttle slides out or partly open, the needle bar) between the thumb and finger of the
the shuttle is liable to get out of position and break
left hand, and insert the needle into the groove (as far
some portion of the machinery.
up as it will go) under the clamp, and screw fast.
We caution purchasers to see that the manufact- Observe that the needle passes through the hole in
urers' plate number of the machine is plain and in good the Throat Plate without touching either side. If it
condition. If defaced or obliterated, it is sure evidence touches, take hold of it near its point, and press it
of fraud, and we will not warrant, or in any way be gently in the opposite direction, until it is free.
responsible for such machines. To avoid imposition
buy only of us, or authorized dealers. TO WIND THE BOBBIN.

Do not run the machine backward or with both

threads in, without sewing.

Do not use a dull or bent needle, or draw the work

faster than the feed will naturally carry it, as needles

are frequently broken by failing to observe the latter

caution.

When ordering parts always live the piate number
of machine.

Avoid changing the shuttle tension, as a change of

upper tension will generally give the result desired.

Remove the shuttle from the carrier with the fingers

only. Never use the scissors, as they may blunt the

shuttle point or bend the shuttle spring.

In setting the attachments be sure to lift the presser
Unlock the balance wheel with thumb and forefinger
foot from the right, and do not let the attachments
of the right hand by drawing the key (12) out, turning
drag over the feed or strike the feed.
it part round (this will prevent the machine from
Recollect, that every part where there is the least wearing, and save the trouble and annoyance of un-
friction should be carefully oiled. Only a very small threading it, and removing the work while the bobbin
quantity of oil should be used at a time. is being filled). Then swing the bobbin winder until it
Never wind a knot on to the bobbin, and see that no is in position and presses firmly against the wheel. Place
knot gets into the eye of the needle, always use good the spool of thread to be wound from on the spindle
(80) and put the bobbin in the bobbin winder. Pass thread.

Катававава

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BOMBER SARGE DEEN^ONDERAR
the thread from the spool, once around the tension TO ADIUST PRESSER FOOT.
screw (104) as shown in cut, thence down between
the bobbin winder frame and wire guide at (A), then
At the top of the Machine, back of the needle bar,
through slot (B) at bottom of thread guide, then into
will be found a screw, which, by turning to the right,
V shaped slot of thread guide at (C). To secure the increases, and to the left, decreases the pressure of
end of thread preparatory to winding, place it between the presser foot. Heavy goods require more pres-
the head of the bobbin and its socket at the right hand. sure than light goods. Too much pressure will
Proceed as in sewing. When the bobbin has been pucker fine cloth, while too little pressure on heavy
filled, swing the winder from wheel and turn back the cloth will let presser foot rise as the needle ascends.
key (12) until it enters the hole and locks the balance Care should be taken to adjust the pressure correctly.
wheel. All machines are properly adjusted for ordinary work,
TO THREAD THE SHUTTLE. the screw should not be changed except on extra
thick or thin goods.
GAUGE.

Every machine has a Gauge. It is attached to the
1 enablingbed platetheby operatormeans oftothesewthumbat a screw,given distanceand used fromfor
the edge of the goods.
TO HEMSTITCH.

FIG Fold blotting paper (or other soft paper) which can
be readily torn, until you get.thickness corresponding

to the opening desired in the hem-stitching; put one of
the pieces of goods under the paper and ha other

above, then place all under the presser foot and boxes
through them. After being sewed, both pieces will be

double. Fold back the cloth first on one side, then on

the other, all in the same direction and hold firmly
while You tear out the paper. Remove the other half

of the paper and open the hem-stitching. one edge of
each, or either piece may be cut and passed through
the hemmer, or a row of stitching can be passed along,
side the hemstitch, and the double edge finished off as

you choose.
Take the shuttle in the left hand, with the point TO REMOVE THE FOOT.
toward you; draw off about two inches of thread from

the bobbin, thread running from the upper side, (see
Fig. 1); drop the bobbin into the shuttle as far as it Raise the needle bar to its highest point, loosen the
binding nut which is just above the foot, by turning to
will go; then draw the thread into the open slot of
the right, then draw the foot out.
shuttle, at the same time putting a little pressure with

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13
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TO SELECT NEEDLES AND THREAD. 105, Throat Plate, coarse; 150, Oil Gan, filled; 154
Quilter; 66, Six Bobbins, one of which is filled ready
Size of Size of Gotton, for use in shuttle; 151 Hemmer and Feller, Package
Needle GLASS OF WORK TO SEW. tinen oP SIK. of Assorted Needles,
Very Fine Thin Muslins, Cam- 120 to 300 brics. Linens. etc. Cotton. iNSTRUCTIONS Very Fine Calicoes. Linens. 90 to 120 Cotton, lanenshirungs, TOOOS. etC.Fine Silk 000. & 00 Silk Twist. FOR USINg THE
Shirtings, Sheetings, Bleached FOOT HEMMER AND FELLER.
Galicoes. Mus inS, Silas 60 to 90 Cotton.
General Domestic Goods, and O and 00 Silk Twist. al casses of Genera Work.
40 to 60 Cotton, All windsWooleno Ir Goods,.garo Calicass,
Silks, Seaming Stitching, etc. A and O Silk Twist.
Tickings, Woolen Goods, Trou- 24 to 40 Cotton.
sers, cloaks,Boys grothing,Manucs, Corsets,etc. A and o silk Twist
Heavy HeavyWoolens Coats.and Tickings,Trousers.10 andto 21 I'WIst.Cotton,anoA
oU to ou minen.

Bags,coodsCoarseof anyCloths,terture.Heavy 40very&toD Coarse60SilkLinen,Twist,Cotton.B, C
ir Needles O, B, 1-2 and 1, use throat plate with Small Raise the needle to its highest point and raise the
needle hole; for 2, 3, and 4 use throat plate with Large hole. presser foot to its first lift by turning the lifter to the

right. Loosen the nut A, take off the presser foot and OUTFIT.
replace with the Hemmer. Set saime to its right place
and fasten nut A by turning to the left. Raise the
154 presser bar by turning the presser foot lifter to. the
right, and pass the edge of the cloth into the. hemmer
in the manner shown in the illustration, drawing it

through the hemmer as far as the needle hole, in order
105 that the feed may at once catch the cloth. Then let
150 the hemmer down upon the feed surface, and operate
33 the machine as usual. Should the goods begin to
run Outof the hemmer, carry them to the Right;
should too much run into the hemmer carry the goods
to-the Left. About one-fourth. of an inch in width
is as much of the goods as is usually required to
form a perfect hem. If the stitch takes the hem

too far from the edge, turn the hemmer a little to the
Every Sewing Machine is threaded up and ready for Right. It, on the contrary, the stitch does not catch
use when it leaves our factory, accompanied by the the edge of the hem, turn the hemmer a little to the
following accessories; 32, Gauge; 33, Gauge Screw left.

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14 15

FELLING. QUILTING.

Sew the two edges of the cloth together, the under

one projecting one-fourth of an inch beyond the upper;
then open out the work and crease the seam down, Insert the quilter through the small hole in the
the wide edge over the narrow edge. Draw the wide- presser bar, and fasten with the screw in the back of
folded edge into the hemmer, the same as if it were presser bar, moving it to the right or left to the re-
a hem, and drop the foot. Then guide the fold edge, quired width of the rows of stitching. Raise or lower
and work the machine the same as in ordinary hem- the quilter according to the thickness of the goods.
ming. A wider fell requires a wider seam, which is Having made the first row the desired distance from
turned the same as a wider hem. the edge place the work so that this row will be un-
der and in line with the lower edge of the quilter,
TO HEM AND SEW ON LACE. which will form a guide for each row of stitching; the

last row made always passing under and in line with

the quilter while stitching the pext.

Put the edge of the fabric into the hemmer. When
the hem is well started, raise hemmer foot by means

of the presser lifter and also raise the needle. Then
pass the lace through slot in the side of hemmer,

carrying it back under the hemmer on top of the hem.

Proceed as in ordinary hemming, keeping lace well in
the side.

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