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Singer 306K Service — Service manual

Service manual for Singer 306K Service. 174 pages in English. Read the original PDF, download or print a copy without registration.

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Singer
Model / document
Singer 306K Service
Document type
Service manual
Language
English
Pages
174
File size
22.8 MB
Category
Sewing machines
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FormForm 2073220732
            PrinterPrinter inin llll SS AA

       SERVICESERVICE MANUALMANUAL
                     FORFOR
      SINGERSINGER
        SWING-NEEDLESWING-NEEDLE
     SEWINGSEWING MACHINESMACHINES

      FORFOR COMBINEDCOMBINED STRAIGHTSTRAIGHT ANDAND ZIGZAGZIGZAG STITCHINGSTITCHING
                   REVERSIBLEREVERSIBLE FEEDFEED




                        "SINGER"SINGER SS





                                   MachineMachine 306w25306w25


                               SeeSee IndexIndex onon pagespages 169169 toto 174174

THETHE SINGERSINGER MANUFACTURINGMANUFACTURING COMPANYCOMPANY

        *A*A TrademarkTrademark ofof THETHE SINGERSINGER MANUFACTURINGMANUFACTURING COMPANYCOMPANY


                                                          InsertInsert inin placeplace ofof CorrespondingCorresponding SheetSheet inin FormForm 2073220732 (257)(257)
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PROPERTYPROPERTY OFOF

        THETHE SINGERSINGER MANUFACTURINGMANUFACTURING COMPANYCOMPANY



ThisThis isis aa privateprivate andand confidentialconfidential communicationcommunication toto andand forfor thethe useuse ofof onlyonly

thethe employeesemployees ofof TheThe SingerSinger ManufacturingManufacturing CompanyCompany andand itsits affiliatedaffiliated com-com-

panies.panies. Reproduction,Reproduction, sale,sale, distribution,distribution, oror publicationpublication thereofthereof toto thethe publicpublic

isis forbidden.forbidden.
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TABLETABLE OFOF CONTENTSCONTENTS



                                                           PacePace
 SINGERSINGER AutomaticAutomatic Swing-NeedleSwing-Needle SewingSewing MachinesMachines ................             33 toto 7979

 SINGERSINGER Non-AutomaticNon-Automatic Swing-NeedleSwing-Needle SewingSewing MachinesMachines ofof ClassClass 306306 andand
     MachineMachine 206K43206K43                                                   8181 toto 8585

 SINGERSINGER Non-AutomaticNon-Automatic Swing-NeedleSwing-Needle SewingSewing MachineMachine 206K25206K25        8787 toto 102102

 SINGERSINGER AutomaticAutomatic Swing-NeedleSwing-Needle SewingSewing MachinesMachines ofof ClassClass 319319       ..103..103 toto 123123

 SINGERSINGER AutomaticAutomatic Swing-NeedleSwing-Needle SewingSewing MachinesMachines ofof ClassClass 401401           ..125..125 toto 162162

  DescriptionsDescriptions ofof MachinesMachines ............                                            ....163....163 toto 168168
IndexIndex                                                   169169 toto 174174





SINGERSINGER AUTOMATICAUTOMATIC SWING-NEEDLESWING-NEEDLE
          MACHINESMACHINES

   TheThe instructionsinstructions onon thethe followingfollowing pages,pages, upuptotoandandinclud-includ
inging pagepage 79,79, applyapply toto 306306 AutomaticAutomatic Swing-Swing- NeedleNeedle Machines.Machines.
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TiPSTiPS ONON SETTINGSETTING UPUP




   AfterAfter removingremoving thethe machinemachine fromfrom itsits packingpacking case,case,      6.6. ByBy meansmeans ofof anan oiloil cancan filledfilled withwith Varsol,Varsol,
 setset itit upup inin thethe orderorder notednoted below.below.                         floodflood thethe sewingsewing hookhook assembly.assembly. RunRun ma-ma-
                                                   chinechine forfor aboutabout threethree toto fivefive minutesminutes untiluntil  1.1. InspectInspect forfor concealedconcealed damagedamage incurredincurred
                                                                      allall thethe tackytacky oiloil isis washedwashed out.out. ThenThen ap-ap-    duringduring transit,transit, typicaltypical formsforms ofof whichwhich areare
                                                       plyply SINGERSINGER OilOil andand run-inrun-in thethe machinemachine    asas follows:follows:
                                               againagain forfor threethree toto fivefive minutes.minutes.
     BentBent armarm shaft.shaft.
     BrokenBroken oror bentbent handhand wheel.wheel.                           7.7. OilOil thethe sewingsewing machinemachine completely.completely. SeeSee pagespages
                                          7474 toto 77.77. WipeWipe awayaway allall surplussurplus oil.oil.    CrackedCracked oror bentbent bed.bed.

    NoisyNoisy gearsgears (high(high pitchedpitched whiningwhining geargear tonetone asas     8.8. MakeMake suresure therethere isis heatheat expansionexpansion clearanceclearance
        wellwell asas geargear growl)growl) causedcaused byby severesevere shock.shock.         .015.015 toto .020.020 inchinch betweenbetween rearrear armarm shaftshaft bush-bush-
    MachineMachine boundbound tighttight byby severesevere shock.shock.                  inging andand flangedflanged bushing.bushing. SeeSee pagepage 27.27.

    BrokenBroken oror bentbent under-bedunder-bed parts.parts.
                                                             9.9. InspectInspect conditioncondition ofof needleneedle beforebefore makingmaking sew-sew-
    BrokenBroken oror crackedcracked motormotor endend covers,covers, lightlight andand                                                            inging test.test. SeeSee pagepage 5.5. CheckCheck hookhook andand needleneedle
      pulley.pulley.                                                                      relationship.relationship.
    BrokenBroken oror bentbent stitchstitch regulatorregulator lever.lever.
                                                      10.10. Sew-inSew-in thethe machinemachine andand checkcheck thethe stitchingstitching forfor    WaterWater damagedamage (observe(observe forfor waterwater marksmarks insideinside
                                                              correctcorrect behaviorbehavior ofof bightbight controlscontrols andand pendulumpendulum        carton).carton).
                                                        motion.motion. SeeSee pagespages 5252 toto 55.55.
 2.2. TurnTurn handhand wheelwheel overover towardtoward youyou toto makemake cer-cer-
     taintain thatthat sewingsewing mechanismmechanism turnsturns freely.freely.          11.11. MakeMake suresure stitchstitch regulatorregulator movesmoves freely;freely; thatthat itit
                                                  doesdoes notnot creepcreep whenwhen sewingsewing oror thatthat itit stickssticks oror
 3.3. WipeWipe offoff allall tracestraces ofof thethe tackytacky anti-rustanti-rust oiloil usedused                                                                   binds.binds.
    toto protectprotect thethe polishedpolished andand platedplated surfaces.surfaces.
    GiveGive particularparticular attentionattention toto thethe needleneedle threadthread     12.12. TestTest windwind aa bobbinbobbin toto bebe suresure thatthat bobbinbobbin windswinds
     tensiontension assembly.assembly.                                          evenly.evenly.

 4.4. ApplyApply motormotor andand lightlight toto machinemachine andand checkcheck     13.13. CheckCheck bobbinbobbin casecase tensiontension withwith silksilk asas describeddescribed
    operatingoperating behavior.behavior.                          onon pagepage 21.21.

5.5. RemoveRemove bobbinbobbin casecase andand washwash inin Varsol,Varsol, mak-mak-                                                   14.14. PolishPolish thethe headhead toto aa satinsatin finish.finish. DoDo notnot leaveleave
    inging suresure allall tracestraces ofof tackytacky oiloil havehave beenbeen                                          anan oilyoily oror aa greasygreasy filmfilm onon anyany portionportion ofof
   washedwashed outout fromfrom underunder thethe tensiontension spring.spring.            thethe headhead oror thethe cabinet.cabinet.
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ORDERORDER OFOF INSPECTIONINSPECTION OFOF CUSTOMER'SCUSTOMER'S
))                        MACHINESMACHINES ATAT THETHE BENCHBENCH

         1.1. ObtainObtain completecomplete informationinformation concerningconcerning thethe    7.7. CheckCheck relationshiprelationship ofof needleneedle withwith sewingsewing hook.hook.
            customer'scustomer's sewingsewing problemproblem beforebefore makingmaking anyany       SeeSee pagespages 99 andand 4141 toto 44.44.
            adjustments.adjustments.

                                                               8.8. CheckCheck pendulumpendulum motionmotion ofof needleneedle bar.bar. SeeSee
         2.2. ObtainObtain samplessamples ofof thethe customer'scustomer's materialmaterial andand
                                                   pagespages 5252 toto 55.55.
           threadthread forfor finalfinal testing.testing.

         3.3. CheckCheck threadingthreading ofof machine.machine.                           9.9. InspectInspect hookhook timingtiming atat centralcentral positionposition ofof needle.needle.
                                                SeeSee pagepage 43.43.

         4.4. InspectInspect needleneedle for-for-

                                                            10.10. CheckCheck needleneedle barbar heightheight atat extremeextreme leftleft needleneedle                  a.a. Make.Make. AllAll SINGERSINGER needlesneedles areare markedmarked withwith
                                                                        position.position. SeeSee pagepage 44.44.              thethe Company'sCompany's trademarktrademark SIMANCOSIMANCO **

            b.b. ComparisonComparison ofof sizesize withwith thethe threadthread used.used.
                                                            11.11. CheckCheck feedfeed mechanismmechanism for-for-
            SeeSee pagepage 10.10.

                                                                            a.a. TimingTiming ofof feedfeed movement.movement. SeeSee pagepage 29.29.
                   c.c. DamageDamage (Needle(Needle bentbent oror blunt-needleblunt-needle eyeeye
                rough.)rough.)                                             b.b. FeedFeed dogdog height.height. SeeSee pagepage 30.30.

             d.d. RelationRelation toto needleneedle holehole inin throatthroat plate.plate. CheckCheck          c.c. PositionPosition ofof feedfeed dogdog inin throatthroat plateplate slots.slots.
                  forfor straightstraight sewingsewing andand forfor maximummaximum zigzagzigzag          SeeSee pagepage 32.32.
                 stitching.stitching. SeeSee pagespages 2222 andand 52.52.
                                                                     d.d. TestTest feedfeed forfor slightslight forwardforward motionmotion atat "O',"O',

        5.5. CheckCheck conditioncondition ofof needleneedle holehole (or(or slot)slot) inin
           presserpresser footfoot andand inin throatthroat plate.plate.                  12.12. TestTest bightbight controls,controls, usingusing needleneedle perforationperforation
                                                                            tests.tests. SeeSee pagespages 5858 andand 59.59.

         6.6. CheckCheck threadthread clearanceclearance betweenbetween positionposition fingerfinger
         andand bobbinbobbin casecase holder.holder. SeeSee pagepage 4242                                                              13.13. CheckCheck armarm shaftshaft connectionconnection beltbelt forfor looseness.looseness.





                                  55

                                                              InsertInsert inin placeplace ofof pagepage 55 inin FormForm 2073220732 (257'(257'
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SUGGESTIONSSUGGESTIONS TOTO THETHE SERVICEMANSERVICEMAN ININ THETHE NOMENOME




   QuiteQuite frequently,frequently, whenwhen aa machinemachine isis notnot sewingsewing         c.c. locationlocation in:in:
 satisfactorily,satisfactorily, thethe requiredrequired adjustmentsadjustments cancan bebe accom-accom-                throatthroat plateplate
 plishedplished inin thethe homehome byby aa SINGERSINGER Serviceman.Serviceman.                  presserpresser footfoot

                                                                             relationrelation toto sewingsewing hookhook pointpoint

   ConditionsConditions suchsuch asas faultyfaulty operationoperation ofof thethe bightbight
                                                                d.d. damagedamage fromfrom strikingstriking hookhook pointpoint
controlcontrol oror wornworn oror damageddamaged partsparts maymay havehave toto bebe

 remediedremedied atat thethe SINGERSINGER Shop,Shop, butbut thisthis decisiondecision shouldshould                                                           4.4. CheckCheck threadingthreading ofof machine,machine, bothboth upperupper andand
 bebe mademade onlyonly afterafter thethe machinemachine isis thoroughlythoroughly checkedchecked                                                          underunder threads.threads.
inin thethe exactexact orderorder outlinedoutlined below.below.

                                                             5.5. CheckCheck tensionstensions ofof bothboth threads.threads. SeeSee pagespages 1515
                                                  toto 21.21.  UseUse aa ChecklistChecklist similarsimilar toto oneone shownshown onon pagepage 77
 asas aa recordrecord forfor thethe manman atat thethe bench.bench.
                                                        6.6. InspectInspect woundwound bobbinsbobbins forfor properproper winding.winding.
                                            SeeSee pagepage 79.79. BobbinBobbin mustmust turnturn freelyfreely insideinside
                                                    bobbinbobbin case.case.
ORDERORDER OFOF INSPECTIONINSPECTION ININ THETHE HOMEHOME

                                                     7.7. InspectInspect threadthread take-uptake-up springsettings.Seespringsettings.See  1.1. InspectInspect recentrecent samplessamples ofof sewingsewing mademade byby thethe
                                               pagespages 1919 andand 20.20.     customercustomer onon thethe machine,machine, beforebefore checkingchecking ma-ma-
     chinechine itself.itself. AskAsk customercustomer toto indicateindicate onon sewingsewing
                                                            8.8. CheckCheck hookhook andand needleneedle relationship.relationship. SeeSee pagespages
    samplessamples thethe particularparticular stitchingstitching faultsfaults sheshe hashas                                                   9,41,9,41, 4343 andand 44.44.
   mademade referencereference to.to.

                                                          9.9. CheckCheck timingtiming ofof needleneedle barbar andand sewingsewing hookhook
 2.2. CheckCheck thethe combinationcombination ofof needleneedle andand threadthread         duringduring straightstraight stitching.stitching. SeeSee pagepage 43.43.
    usedused byby customer.customer. SeeSee pagepage 10.10.
                                                    10.10. CheckCheck positionposition fingerfinger inin bobbinbobbin casecase basebase forfor
                                                         properproper threadthread space.space. SeeSee pagepage 42.42.
 3.3. CheckCheck needleneedle for-for-

                                                        11.11. CheckCheck heightheight ofof feedfeed dog;dog; itsits positionposition inin throatthroat
         a.a. wearwear oror damagedamage (needle(needle blunt,blunt, bentbent oror
                                                                        plate.plate.
         burred).burred).

      o.o. positionposition inin needleneedle clamp.clamp. SeeSee pagespages 1212 andand    12.12. CheckCheck performanceperformance ofof bightbight controlcontrol mechanism.mechanism.
       88..88..                                   SeeSee pagespages 6262 toto 6767 andand 9292 toto 99.99.
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SAMPLESAMPLE CHECKCHECK LISTLIST
))                      FORFOR SERVICEMANSERVICEMAN ININ THETHE HOMEHOME
         ITEMSITEMS REQUIRINGREQUIRING ATTENTIONATTENTION AREARE INDICATEDINDICATED BYBY CHECKCHECK && MARK:MARK:

        1.1. QUALITYQUALITY OFOF STRAIGHTSTRAIGHT STITCHINGSTITCHING -CENTRAL-CENTRAL           RIGHT.RIGHT.           LEFTLEFT

        2.2. ZIGZAGSZIGZAGS ININ STRAIGHTSTRAIGHT SEWINGSEWING POSITIONPOSITION [[ STAGGERSSTAGGERS OO

         3.3. FRAYSFRAYS ANDAND BREAKSBREAKS SILKSILK THREADTHREAD DURINGDURING -CHAINING-CHAINING                 #25#25 STITCH.STITCH.
         FRAYSFRAYS ANDAND BREAKSBREAKS MERC.MERC. COTTONCOTTON THREADTHREAD DURING-DURING- CHAININGCHAINING --          #25#25 STITCH.STITCH.
       FREE-HANDFREE-HAND EMBROIDERYEMBROIDERY DD ZIGZAGZIGZAG SEWINGSEWING [[ STRAIGHTSTRAIGHT SEWINGSEWING OO

        4.4. QUALITYQUALITY OFOF SATINSATIN STITCHSTITCH

        5.5. QUALITYQUALITY OFOF ZIGZAGZIGZAG STITCHING_STITCHING_

         6.6. QUALITYQUALITY OFOF TWINTWIN NEEDLENEEDLE SEWING.SEWING.

        7.7. STALLSSTALLS ONON SATINSATIN STITCHINGSTITCHING OO SEWSSEWS ININ REVERSEREVERSE ATAT "O""O" DD

       8.8. MACHINEMACHINE HARDHARD TOTO STARTSTART OO KNOCKSKNOCKS ATAT HIGHHIGH SPEEDSPEED DD

       9.9. NEEDLENEEDLE RUBSRUBS THROATTHROAT PLATEPLATE LEFTLEFT SIDE.SIDE.        RIGHTRIGHT SIDESIDE

        )) 10.10. RELATIONRELATION OFOF HOOKHOOK TOTO NEEDLE-TOONEEDLE-TOO FARFAR AWAYAWAY [7[7 STRIKINGSTRIKING NEEDLENEEDLE

      11.11. HOOKHOOK TIMING-SLOWTIMING-SLOW OO FASTFAST [J[J

      12.12. SKIPSSKIPS ONON STRAIGHTSTRAIGHT STITCHINGSTITCHING OO ONON ZIGZAGZIGZAG OO

     13.13. MACHINEMACHINE LOOPSLOOPS [[ GATHERSGATHERS

      14.14. HOOKHOOK RATTLESRATTLES O]O]      FEEDFEED NOISYNOISY                   TAKE-UPTAKE-UP LEVERLEVER
                                    ININ LOWLOW POSITIONPOSITION OO         LOOSELYLOOSELY FITTEDFITTED ••

     15.15. BIGHTBIGHT CONTROLS--EASYCONTROLS--EASY [7[7 HARDHARD OO TOTO MOVEMOVE
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NEEDLESNEEDLES ANDAND THREADSTHREADS



    ForFor perfectperfect stitching,stitching, thethe selectionselection ofof thethe Class,Class,     constant,constant, maintainingmaintaining anan identicalidentical relationshiprelationship be-be-
  VarietyVariety andand SizeSize ofof aa needleneedle toto bebe usedused mustmust bebe basedbased    tweentween short-grooveshort-groove sideside ofof allall 206206 ×× 1313 andand 306306 ×× 11
  uponupon thethe designdesign andand capacitycapacity ofof thethe particularparticular sew-sew-     needlesneedles andand thethe hookhook point.point. Therefore,Therefore, anyany increaseincrease
  inging machinemachine asas wellwell asas thethe workwork toto bebe accomplished.accomplished.     inin thethe diameterdiameter ofof thethe bladeblade resultsresults inin aa shiftingshifting ofof
                                                      onlyonly thethe centerlinecenterline ofof thethe needleneedle bladeblade awayaway fromfrom
                                                       thethe hookhook point.point.

                                      TheThe distancedistance Y,Y, Fig.Fig. 22 fromfrom thethe butt-endbutt-end
  ForFor efficientefficient andand attractiveattractive sewingsewing results,results, thethe    ofof thethe shankshank ofof thethe needleneedle toto thethe toptop ofof thethe
  needleneedle bladeblade isis designeddesigned toto bebe asas slenderslender asas possible,possible,                                                   needleneedle eyeeye isis constant,constant, regardlessregardless ofof needleneedle sizes,sizes,



                             FLATFLAT SIDESIDE                      BLADEBLADE
                         OFOF SHANKSHANK





                                                   FigFig 2.2. NeedleNeedle DistancesDistances



 whilewhile sufficientlysufficiently strongstrong toto avoidavoid breakagebreakage atat thethe                                                          withinwithin allall ClassesClasses andand VarietiesVarieties ofof needlesneedles recom-recom-
 needleneedle eye.eye. Therefore,Therefore, thethe sizesize ofof thethe needleneedle eye,eye, re-re-                                          mendedmended forfor aa particularparticular sewingsewing machine.machine. ThisThis isis toto
 quiredquired byby thethe thread,thread, determinesdetermines thethe idealideal sizesize ofof thethe                                                      maintainmaintain thethe correctcorrect relationshiprelationship ofof thethe heightheight ofof thethe
needleneedle blade.blade. TheThe actualactual sizesize numbernumber ofof thethe                                                 needleneedle eyeeye toto thethe pointpoint ofof thethe hook,hook, throughoutthroughout allall
 needleneedle isis basedbased uponupon thethe diameterdiameter ofof thethe                                                         possiblepossible changeschanges ofof needles,needles, asas listedlisted forfor thethe sewingsewing
 needleneedle bladeblade atat thethe eyeeye ofof thethe needle.needle. ThisThis    machine.machine.
 diameterdiameter isis constantconstant forfor allall sewingsewing machinemachine
needlesneedles ofof thethe samesame sizesize number.number.                   However,However, thethe sizesize ofof thethe needleneedle eyeeye increasesincreases withwith
                                                          thethe sizesize ofof thethe needleneedle toto accommodateaccommodate heavierheavier thread.thread.
  TheThe distancedistance XX betweenbetween thethe short-grooveshort-groove sideside     Therefore,Therefore, anyany increaseincrease inin thethe lengthlength ofof aa needleneedle
 ofof thethe needleneedle bladeblade andand thethe positionposition ofof thethe flat-sideflat-side      forfor oneone particularparticular machinemachine isis mademade fromfrom thethe toptop ofof
ofof thethe needleneedle shank,shank, seatedseated inin thethe needleneedle bar,bar, isis                                                    thethe needleneedle eyeeye towardtoward thethe pointpoint ofof thethe needle.needle.





                              88
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HOOKHOOK ANDAND NEEDLENEEDLE RELATIONSHIPRELATIONSHIP





                                                     Fig.Fig. 3.3.

                                         RelationshipRelationship ofof HookHook PointPoint toto NeedleNeedle EyeEye



    TheThe hookhook pointpoint shouldshould passpass thethe needleneedle asas closeclose asas possible,possible, withoutwithout strikingstriking it.it. ThisThis willwill insureinsure
hookhook pointpoint entryentry ofof threadthread looploop duringduring ornamentalornamental zigzagzigzag stitching.stitching. AdjustAdjust byby looseningloosening screwscrew M4M4 andand proceedproceed
asas instructedinstructed onon pagepage 41.41.
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CHARTCHART SHOWINGSHOWING RELATIONSHIPRELATIONSHIP OFOF TYPESTYPES OFOF FABRICS,FABRICS,

                     THREADTHREAD ANDAND NEEDLENEEDLE SIZESSIZES ANDAND

                      MACHINEMACHINE STITCHESSTITCHES TOTO THETHE INCHINCH



                                                              MACHINEMACHINE STITCHESSTITCHES
                                                        PERINCHPERINCH
                              THREADTHREAD        NEEDLENEEDLE       INSIDEINSIDE       TOPTOP
     TYPESTYPES OFOF FABRIGSFABRIGS           SIZESSIZES           SIZESSIZES       SEAMSSEAMS       STITCHINGSTITCHING

FilmyFilmy materialmaterial comparablecomparable toto Net,Net,   MercerizedMercerized 0000
  Marquisette,Marquisette, Chiffon,Chiffon, SilkSilk andand ChifChif    100100 CottonCotton                                99        1515 toto 2020      1515 toto 2020  fonfon Velvets,Velvets, Voiles,Voiles, NinonNinon         0000 andand 000000 SilkSilk
                                      NylonNylon ThreadThread
 SheerSheer materialsmaterials comparablecomparable toto
                                         MercerizedMercerized OO Lawn,Lawn, Dimity,Dimity, SyntheticSynthetic Sheers,Sheers,
                               8080 toto 100100 CottonCotton
 PaperPaper Taffetas,Taffetas, PurePure Silks,Silks, Gossa-Gossa-                                1212 toto 1515       1515 toto 2020                                        00 SilkSilk
 mermer Silks,Silks, SilkSilk oror SyntheticSynthetic Tricots,Tricots,
                                      NylonNylon ThreadThread SyntheticSynthetic Velvets,Velvets, SatinsSatins

 LightweightLightweight materialsmaterials comparablecomparable
   Gingham,Gingham, Chambray,Chambray, Pique,Pique,    MercerizedMercerized 5050
 Poplin,Poplin, Percale,Percale, Cretonne,Cretonne, Chintz,Chintz,   6060 toto 8080 CottonCotton
 Faille,Faille, Bengaline,Bengaline, WoolWool Flannel,Flannel,     AA SilkSilk          1414                          1515 toto 1818
 WoolWool Jersey,Jersey, WoolWool Crepe,Crepe, CottonCotton   NylonNylon oror DacronDacron
 VelvetsVelvets andand Velveteens,Velveteens, LightweightLightweight      ThreadThread
 SuitingsSuitings

 MediumMedium heavyheavy materialsmaterials compar-compar-
ableable toto Corduroy,Corduroy, Crash,Crash, Gabar-Gabar- HeavyHeavy DutyDuty Merc.Merc. 4040                                   1616       1010        1212 dine,dine, Rep,Rep, HeavyHeavy SuitingsSuitings andand Coat-40Coat-40 toto 6060 CottonCotton
ingsings
HeavyHeavy materialsmaterials comparablecomparable toto
                              3030 toto 4040 CottonCotton Sailcloth,Sailcloth, Denim,Denim, Ticking,Ticking, Over-Over-                                                                1010                                   1818      88                              DacronDacron ThreadThread coatingscoatings

  PlasticPlastic materialsmaterials                  MercerizedMercerized 5050
                                                            1010




                            TWISTTWIST OFOF THREADTHREAD

   ForFor ordinaryordinary stitching,stitching, eithereither rightright oror leftleft twisttwist
 threadthread cancan bebe usedused inin thethe needleneedle andand inin thethe bobbin.bobbin.               HOLDHOLD THISTHIS ENDEND
                                                                                         ROLLROLL OVEROVER


   ToTo determinedetermine twisttwist ofof thread,thread, holdhold threadthread asas shownshown
 atat rightright andand turnturn threadthread overover towardtoward youyou betweenbetween
 thumbthumb andand forefingerforefinger ofof rightright hand.hand. IfIf threadthread isis leftleft
 twist,twist, thethe strandsstrands willwill windwind tighter;tighter; ifif rightright twist,twist, thethe
 strandsstrands willwill unwind.unwind.                                                        Fig.Fig. 4.4. DeterminingDetermining thethe TwistTwist ofof ThreadThread



                           1010
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TOTO ORDERORDER NEEDLESNEEDLES FORFOR SWING-NEEDLESWING-NEEDLE MACHINESMACHINES


        SingleSingle needlesneedles forfor thesethese MachinesMachines areare ofof ClassClass
                                                        threadthread willwill interfereinterfere withwith thethe successfulsuccessful useuse ofof thethe
                                                  machine.machine.
andand VarietyVariety14,14, 1616 andand20620618.18.xx 1313 andand areare mademade inin SizesSizes 9,9, 11,11,
                                                 WheneverWhenever aa machinemachine breaksbreaks threadthread oror skips,skips, trytry
                                                            thethe nextnext sizesize largerlarger needle.needle.
       TheThe sizesize ofof thethe needleneedle toto bebe usedused dependsdepends uponupon thethe
      sizesize ofof thethe threadthread whichwhich mustmust passpass freelyfreely throughthrough thethe      OrdersOrders forfor needlesneedles mustmust specifyspecify thethe QuantityQuantity re-re-
     eyeeye ofof thethe needle.needle.                                                              quired,quired, thethe SizeSize number,number, alsoalso thethe ClassClass andand VarietyVariety
                                                    numbers,numbers, separatedseparated byby anan x.x.

      DoDo notnot useuse roughrough oror unevenuneven threadthread oror threadthread whichwhich
                                                   TheThe followingfollowing isis anan exampleexample ofof anan intelligibleintelligible order:order:
     passespasses withwith difficultydifficulty throughthrough thethe needleneedle eye,eye, asas suchsuch
                                                             "100"100 No.No. 18,18, 206206 xx 1313 Needles.Needles.



                     DESCRIPTIONDESCRIPTION OFOF 306306 xx 11 TWINTWIN NEEDLESNEEDLES

     Twin-needlesTwin-needles ofof ClassClass andand VarietyVariety 306306 ×× 1,1,
                                                                     "100"100 No.No. 14,14, 306306 ×× 1-31-3 Needles."Needles."
    mouldedmoulded togethertogether inin oneone assembly,assembly, areare mademade inin SizesSizes
    1111 andand 1414 forfor aa maximummaximum bightbight ofof 3mm.3mm. AlwaysAlways
     includeinclude desireddesired bightbight whenwhen ordering,ordering, asas shownshown byby
                                              TheThe bestbest stitchingstitching resultsresults willwill bebe obtainedobtained withwith
    thethe followingfollowing example:example:
))                                                   needlesneedles soldsold byby SingerSinger SewingSewing MachineMachine Company.Company.

                    1515 xx 11 NEEDLESNEEDLES FORFOR MACHINESMACHINES OFOF CLASSCLASS 401401


     TheseThese machinesmachines useuse needlesneedles ofof ClassClass andand VarietyVariety
                                                           1515 xx 1,1, availableavailable inin sizessizes 9,9, 11,11, 14,14, 1616 andand 18.18.



                     TOTO PREVENTPREVENT BREAKINGBREAKING OFOF NEEDLESNEEDLES

     TheThe mostmost commoncommon causecause ofof needleneedle breakagebreakage isis thethe
                                                   unlessunless thethe correctcorrect relativerelative positionposition betweenbetween thethe
    pullingpulling ofof thethe materialmaterial byby thethe operator,operator, whilewhile thethe ma-ma-
                                                        needle,needle, throatthroat plateplate andand presserpresser footfoot isis maintained,maintained,
   chinechine isis sewing..sewing.. ThisThis practicepractice isis entirelyentirely unnecessary,unnecessary,                                                  asas instructedinstructed onon pagepage 52.52.
   asas thethe machinemachine (when(when properlyproperly adjusted)adjusted) willwill feedfeed thethe
    materialmaterial correctlycorrectly withoutwithout assistanceassistance                   TheThe needleneedle oror thethe hookhook pointpoint maymay breakbreak unlessunless thethe
                                                   machinemachine isis correctlycorrectly timed,timed, asas instructedinstructed onon pagespages 4141
     AttemptingAttempting toto performperform zigzagzigzag stitching,stitching, whilewhile thethe   andand 43.43.
  machinemachine isis fittedfitted withwith straightstraight stitchingstitching throatthroat plateplate
  oror presserpresser foot,foot, willwill alsoalso causecause breakingbreaking ofof needles.needles.   NOTE:NOTE: DoDo notnot exceedexceed numbernumber threethree onon bightbight
                                                controlcontrol whenwhen sewingsewing withwith twintwin
    TheThe needleneedle maymay breakbreak unlessunless itit isis correctlycorrectly locatedlocated
                                                         needles,needles, otherwiseotherwise bendingbending oror break-break-
   yinyin thethe needleneedle clamp,clamp, asas instructedinstructed onon pagepage 12,12, oror                                              ageage willwill occur.occur.


                                        1111

                                                        InsertInsert inin placeplace ofof pagepage 1111 inin FormForm 2073220732 (257)(257)
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LOGATIONLOGATION OFOF NEEDLENEEDLE ININ NEEDLENEEDLE CLAMPCLAMP




     IfIf thethe needleneedle isis incorrectlyincorrectly placedplaced inin thethe needleneedle     Fig.Fig. 6,6, facingfacing thethe rearrear ofof machine,machine, awayaway fromfrom thethe
clampclamp andand isis incorrectlyincorrectly threaded,threaded, thethe machinemachine willwill     operator,operator, thenthen securelysecurely tightentighten needleneedle clampclamp thumbthumb
nornor sawsaw                                         screw.screw.



       MOVEMOVE TOTO
                       NEEDLENEEDLE CLAMPCLAMP
           HIGHESTHIGHEST
                    THUMBTHUMB SCREWSCREW
          POINTPOINT





                                                                                   FLATFLAT SIDESIDE
                                                                TOTO REARREAR
                            INSERTINSERT NEEDLENEEDLE
                      UPUP ASAS FARFAR ASAS
                             POSSIBLEPOSSIBLE
      LONGLONG GROOVEGROOVE
         TOTO FRONTFRONT ->->
                                                                                 SHORTSHORT
                                                                              GROOVEGROOVE



                 Fig.Fig. 5.5. SettingSetting thethe NeedleNeedle                               Fig.Fig. 6.6. FlatFlat SideSide ofof NeedleNeedle (Enlarged)(Enlarged)



  MakeMake suresure thatthat needleneedle isis notnot bluntblunt oror bent.bent.         YouYou willwill notenote fromfrom Fig.Fig. 66 thotthot thethe sideside ofof thethe
                                                   needleneedle withwith thethe flatflat onon thethe shankshank hashas aa shortshort groovegroove

                                                            atat thethe eye,eye, whilewhile thethe oppositeopposite side,side, shownshown inin Fig.Fig. 5,5,
                                             hashas aa longlong groove.groove. OnOn allall machinesmachines thethe needleneedle isis
  LoosenLoosen needleneedle clampclamp thumbthumb screwscrew andand insertinsert needleneedle     threadedthreaded fromfrom thethe longlong groovegroove sideside towardtoward thethe shortshort
inin thethe needleneedle clampclamp slot,slot, allall thethe wayway upup againstagainst thethe     groove;groove; thusthus thethe needleneedle onon thisthis machinemachine isis threadedthreaded
stop,stop, withwith thethe flatflat sideside ofof thethe shankshank ofof thethe needle,needle, seesee    fromfrom frontfront toto rear.rear.
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FORMATIONFORMATION OFOF THETHE LOCKLOCK STITCHSTITCH





                     THREADTHREAD TAKE-UPTAKE-UP
                                                                                                  -- THREADTHREAD TAKE-UPTAKE-UP
                             LEVERLEVER
                                                                             LEVERLEVER




                      VANVAN SISI





                       TENSIONTENSION                                                             TENSIONTENSION
                      DISCSDISCS                                                           DISCSDISCS





                                                    ÑEEDLEÑEEDLE
         MAMA WEEDLEWEEDLE
                   PRESSERPRESSER FOOTFOOT
                                                    PRESSERPRESSER FOOTFOOT

      HOOKHOOK        BOBBINBOBBIN CASECASE                                                            BOBBINBOBBIN CASECASE
         POINTPOINT
                                            -- ROTATINGROTATING HOOKHOOK                                                                                                                                      ,, HOOKHOOK POINTPOINT

                                                        ROTATINGROTATING HOOKHOOK


                      Fig.Fig. 7.7. PointPoint ofof HookHook EnteringEntering
                                                                                            Fig.Fig. 8.8. LoopLoop ofof NeedleNeedle ThreadThread
                  LoopLoop ofof NeedleNeedle ThreadThread                                                                                EnclosingEnclosing bobbinbobbin CaseCase


       Fig.Fig. 77 showsshows thethe firstfirst stagestage inin stitchstitch forma-forma-                                                                 Fig.Fig. 88 showsshows thethe secondsecond stage.stage. TheThe hookhook isis soso
      tion.tion. TheThe threadthread leadingleading toto thethe needleneedle isis slackslack be-be-                                                        timedtimed asas toto enterenter thethe threadthread looploop andand carrycarry thethe looploop
    causecause thethe threadthread take-uptake-up leverlever hashas begunbegun itsits                                                       aroundaround thethe bobbinbobbin casecase containingcontaining thethe bobbinbobbin thread.thread.
     descent.descent. TheThe needle,needle, afterafter reachingreaching itsits lowestlowest point,point,                                                     Take-upTake-up lever,lever, inin descending,descending, furnishesfurnishes allall thethe threadthread
     risesrises toto formform aa looploop ofof threadthread forfor thethe hookhook pointpoint toto                                                             requiredrequired toto enlargeenlarge thethe looploop forfor passagepassage aroundaround bob-bob-
    enter.enter.                                                            binbin case.case.))




                                    1313
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FORMATIONFORMATION OFOF THETHE LOCKLOCK STITCHSTITCH (Continued)(Continued)





                -THREAD-THREAD TAKE-UPTAKE-UP
                                                   THREADTHREAD TAKE-UPTAKE-UP
                      LEVERLEVER                                                                    LEVERLEVER




                    WANWAN SITSIT





                    TENSIONTENSION                                                         TENSIONTENSION
                     DISCSDISCS                                                      DISCSDISCS




              NEEDLENEEDLE                                                             •• NEEDLENEEDLE

             PRESSERPRESSER FOOTFOOT                       PRESSERPRESSER FOOTFOOT


    BOBBINBOBBIN     HOOKHOOK POINTPOINT                                       HOOK-HOOK-     BOBBINBOBBIN CASECASE
    CASECASE
                                                 POINTPOINT
                 ROTATINGROTATING HOOKHOOK                                                                                                          -- ROTATINGROTATING HOOKHOOK



     Fig.Fig. 9.9. BobbinBobbin ThreadThread EnclosedEnclosed byby NeedleNeedle ThreadThread                              Fig.Fig. 10.10. StitchStitch CompletedCompleted


   Fig.Fig. 99 showsshows thethe thirdthird stage.stage. TheThe looploop ofof thethe        Fig.Fig. 1010 showsshows thethe finalfinal stagestage ofof lockinglocking thethe stitch.stitch.
needleneedle threadthread hashas beenbeen castcast offoff thethe hookhook andand thethe    AsAs thethe take-uptake-up leverlever risesrises toto itsits highesthighest position,position, thethe
take-uptake-up leverlever isis risingrising quicklyquickly toto taketake upup allall thethe slackslack   feedfeed dogdog isis completingcompleting itsits forwardforward motion,motion, thusthus lock-lock-
thread.thread.                                                    inging thethe twotwo threadsthreads intointo aa locklock stitch.stitch.
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THETHE PERFECTPERFECT LOCKLOCK STITCHSTITCH





                     Fig.Fig. 11.11. CrossCross SectionSection ViewView
                        ofof PerfectPerfect locklock StitchStitch                                      Fig.Fig. 13.13. CrossCross SectionSection ViewView ofof LockLock StitchStitch
                                                                                 withwith LooseLoose NeedleNeedle ThreadThread TensionTension



   WhenWhen thethe tensionstensions ofof bothboth thethe needleneedle threadthread andand
                                                    IrregularIrregular stitching,stitching, suchsuch asas isis shownshown inin
  thethe bobbinbobbin threadthread areare correctlycorrectly adjusted,adjusted, thethe stitchesstitches
                                                        Fig.Fig. 14,14, isis usuallyusually causedcaused byby aa combinationcombination ofof
   willwill bebe lockedlocked inin thethe centercenter ofof thethe thicknessthickness ofof thethe
                                          twotwo oror moremore ofof thethe followingfollowing conditions:conditions:
   material,material, asas shownshown inin Fig.Fig. 11.11.

   WhenWhen thethe tensiontension ofof thethe needleneedle threadthread isis setset tootoo
                                                           a.a. TooToo looseloose oror tootoo tighttight needleneedle threadthread tension.tension.
  tighttight inin relationrelation toto thethe bobbinbobbin thread,thread, excessexcess bob-bob-
                                                              b.b. TooToo looseloose oror tootoo tighttight bobbinbobbin threadthread tension.tension.





         Fig.Fig. 12.12. CrossCross SectionSection ViewView ofof LockLock StitchStitch withwith
                 TightTight NeedleNeedle ThreadThread TensionTension                                     Fig.Fig. 14.14. CrossCross SectionSection ViewView ofof anan
                                                                                             IrregularIrregular LockLock StitchStitch



 binbin threadthread isis drawndrawn toto thethe toptop ofof thethe material,material, causingcausing
                                                                              c.c. DamagedDamaged oror improperlyimproperly setset tensiontension springspring onon
 aa looseloose stitch,stitch, asas shownshown inin Fig.Fig. 12.12.                                                             bobbinbobbin case.case.
  WhenWhen thethe tensiontension ofof thethe needleneedle threadthread isis setset tootoo     d.d. WornWorn oror damageddamaged positionposition finger.finger.
looseloose inin relationrelation toto thethe bobbinbobbin thread,thread, excessexcess          BentBent needleneedle oror damageddamaged needleneedle eye.eye.
 needleneedle threadthread isis drawndrawn toto thethe bottombottom ofof thethe materialmaterial                                                         ImproperImproper feedingfeeding ofof material.material.
 andand thethe bobbinbobbin threadthread maymay lielie straightstraight alongalong thethe un-un-
                                                               g.g. UseUse ofof wrongwrong needleneedle andand threadthread combination.combination.
dersidederside ofof thethe material,material, asas shownshown inin Fig.Fig. 13.13.
                                                         h.h. IncorrectIncorrect feedfeed time.time.





                           1515
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TENSIONTENSION CONDITIONSCONDITIONS




  WhenWhen checkingchecking andand adjustingadjusting machinemachine forfor tensiontension    properproper tensiontension ofof machinemachine isis toto startstart withwith longestlongest
 conditionsconditions inin relationrelation toto perfectperfect sewing,sewing, useuse aa SizeSize 1414      stitchstitch andand makemake suresure thatthat nono loopinglooping appearsappears inin thethe
 needleneedle andand "A""A" silksilk thread.thread. SilkSilk threadthread shouldshould bebe usedused    stitching.stitching. ThenThen shortenshorten stitchstitch toto approximatelyapproximately #25#25
 toto establishestablish properproper "O'"O' settingsetting ofof needleneedle threadthread ten.ten.    andand notenote whetherwhether oror notnot tensiontension isis satisfactory.satisfactory. IfIf
sionsion andand bobbinbobbin threadthread tensiontension shouldshould bebe adjustedadjusted     noticeablenoticeable variationsvariations occur,occur, makemake suresure allall tracestraces ofof
 withwith silksilk asas describeddescribed onon pagepage 21.21. AfterAfter completingcompleting     thethe tackytacky anti-rustanti-rust oiloil areare removedremoved fromfrom thethe polishedpolished
sewingsewing teststests withwith silk,silk, repeatrepeat thesethese teststests withwith #50#50    surfacessurfaces ofof thethe sewingsewing hookhook andand tensiontension parts.parts. SeeSee
mercerizedmercerized cottoncotton thread.thread. SilkSilk threadthread willwill showshow upup     instructionsinstructions onon pagepage 4.4. FailureFailure toto washwash thethe hookhook
anyany tendencytendency forfor thethe machinemachine toto skip,skip, frayfray oror breakbreak     withwith VarsolVarsol andand toto oiloil itit afterafter cleaning,cleaning, maymay resultresult inin
threadthread beforebefore suchsuch conditionsconditions wouldwould bebe notednoted withwith    manymany formsforms ofof loopinglooping trouble.trouble.
mercerizedmercerized thread.thread.

   TestTest thethe machinemachine atat thethe followingfollowing settings:settings:           SATINSATIN STITCHINGSTITCHING

     1.1. StraightStraight sewingsewing atat left-,left-, centralcentral andand right-right-     WhenWhen satinsatin stitching,stitching, feedfeed andand tensiontension adjustmentsadjustments
       handhand positionposition ofof needleneedle andand atat bothboth longestlongest    mustmust bebe veryvery carefullycarefully mademade toto insureinsure aa uniformuniform
        andand shortestshortest stitchstitch setting.setting.                        qualityquality ofof satinsatin stitch.stitch. CordingCording ofof fabricfabric cancan bebe ex-ex-

                                                     pectedpected ifif excessiveexcessive needleneedle threadthread tensiontension isis employedemployed     2.2. MaximumMaximum zigzagzigzag stitchingstitching atat extremeextreme left-left-
                                                     oror ifif "O""O" dialdial tensiontension settingsetting isis tootoo high.high.
      andand right-handright-hand positionposition ofof needleneedle andand atat
        bothboth longestlongest andand shortestshortest stitchstitch settings.settings.

                                       OPENOPEN ZIGZAGZIGZAG STITCHINGSTITCHING
STRAIGHTSTRAIGHT STITCHINGSTITCHING
                                         OnOn openopen zigzagzigzag stitchingstitching itit isis notnot alwaysalways possiblepossible toto
  TheThe amountamount ofof needleneedle threadthread tensiontension requiredrequired toto     locklock thethe stitchstitch inin thethe cornerscorners withoutwithout cordingcording thethe fab.fab.
makemake aa satisfactorysatisfactory straightstraight stitchstitch willwill varyvary withwith eacheach      ricric unlessunless 11 oror 22 thicknessesthicknesses ofof somesome crispcrisp underlay,underlay,
machine.machine. AA closelyclosely fittedfitted hookhook maymay requirerequire betweenbetween                                                suchsuch asas organdy,organdy, areare used.used. WhenWhen underlayunderlay isis used,used,
#5#5 andand #7#7 onon dialdial tension.tension. AA looselyloosely fittedfitted hookhook maymay     additionaladditional needleneedle threadthread tensiontension maymay bebe requiredrequired toto
requirerequire betweenbetween #4#4 andand #6.#6. TheThe safestsafest testtest toto insureinsure    locklock thethe stitchstitch inin thethe corners.corners.





                                     1616
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SEWINGSEWING DIFFICULTIESDIFFICULTIES                                 CAUSESCAUSES               REMEDIESREMEDIES

                                            NeedleNeedle tootoo smallsmall forfor sizesize   UseUse correctcorrect needle.needle. SeeSee pagepage
                                                    ofof thread.thread.              10.10.

                                    TooToo littlelittle needleneedle threadthread    IncreaseIncrease upperupper tension.tension. CheckCheck
                                                tension.tension. FaultyFaulty take-uptake-up     strokestroke ofof spring--replacespring--replace ifif neces.neces.
                                                    springspring action.action.               sary.sary. SeeSee pagespages 1919 andand 20.20.

     IrregularIrregular settingsetting ofof stitchesstitches withwith largelarge beadsbeads                            FreeFree hookhook ofof anyany threads,threads, gumgum
    showingshowing onon thethe undersideunderside ofof thethe fabric.fabric.      CloggedClogged oror stickysticky sewingsewing     oror otherother foreignforeign matter.matter. IfIf neces-neces-
                                          hook.hook.                                                                      sarysary replacereplace hookhook andand bobbinbobbin
                                                                      casecase holder.holder.

                                                                       ProvideProvide .020.020 inchinch threadthread spacespace
                                                                   betweenbetween bobbinbobbin casecase holderholder andand
                                                           InsufficientInsufficient threadthread space.space.
                                                                          positionposition finger.finger. SeeSee pagepage 42.42.
                                                                              InspectInspect fingerfinger forfor roughness.roughness.

                                       NeedleNeedle threadthread tensiontension   ReduceReduce tension.tension.
    FabricFabric drawingdrawing onon openopen zigzagzigzag stitchstitch ofof     tootoo tight.tight.
   mediummedium stitchstitch length.length.
                                      PressurePressure onon taketake -- UpUp   ReduceReduce pressurepressure onon take-uptake-up
                                                                              spring.spring. SeeSee pagepage 20.20.
))                                                springspring isis tootoo great.great.                                                         ReduceReduce tensiontension soso thatthat materialmaterial
                                                                                             isis notnot drawndrawn yetyet stitchstitch lieslies flat.flat.    FabricFabric drawingdrawing onon allall shortshort zigzagzigzag stitchingstitching    NeedleNeedle threadthread tensiontension
                                                                     UndersideUnderside stitchingstitching willwill notnot locklock   fromfrom mediummedium toto maximummaximum bight.bight.              tootoo tight.tight.
                                                                                         inin cornerscorners butbut inin betweenbetween needleneedle

                                                                                       perforations.perforations.

                                                            TensionTension mustmust bebe lighterlighter forfor   MaterialMaterial drawingdrawing whenwhen sewingsewing withwith Silk,Silk,
                                       UpperUpper tensiontension tootoo tight.tight.    syntheticsynthetic threadsthreads thanthan forfor cotton.cotton.   NylonNylon oror DacronDacron Threads.Threads.
                                                               ReduceReduce tension.tension.

                                                     UseUse aa solidsolid footfoot inin placeplace ofof aa
                                                  MaterialMaterial maymay bebe flaggingflagging
   MachineMachine skippingskipping atat extremeextreme leftleft oror rightright                                                                hingedhinged foot.foot. ReplaceReplace needle.needle.
                                                   withwith needle.needle. NeedleNeedle maymay
  needleneedle positionposition whenwhen sewingsewing withwith SilkSilk oror                                                          CheckCheck heightheight ofof needleneedle barbar inin
                                   bebe bentbent oror settingsetting tootoo   NylonNylon threads.threads.                                                                                   relationrelation toto hook.hook. SeeSee pagespages 4444
                                            high.high.
                                                  andand 45.45.


    AllAll adjustmentsadjustments onon needleneedle threadthread tension,tension, seesee pagepage    bobbinbobbin threadthread tensiontension isis correctlycorrectly setset atat thethe factoryfactory
   18,18, shouldshould bebe mademade onon thethe assumptionassumption thatthat thethe    andand shouldshould notnot bebe unnecessarilyunnecessarily disturbed.disturbed.
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TOTO REGULATEREGULATE THREADTHREAD TENSIONSTENSIONS





NEEDLENEEDLE THREADTHREAD TENSIONTENSION

   ThisThis machinemachine isis equippedequipped withwith aa one-cycleone-cycle dialdial ten-ten-
sionsion which,which, whenwhen setset correctly,correctly, offersoffers aa barelybarely per-per-
ceptibleceptible tensiontension atat "O""O" toto aa maximummaximum atat thethe endend ofof
oneone completecomplete rurnrurn oror thumbthumb nurnur


  AtAt "O""O" therethere shouldshould bebe aa barelybarely perceptibleperceptible amountamount

ofof tension,tension, asas otherwise,otherwise, difficultydifficulty maymay bebe experiencedexperienced
whenwhen sewingsewing withwith twintwin needles,needles, satinsatin stitchingstitching andand
otherother formsforms ofof closedclosed ornamentalornamental stitching.stitching.                                   Fig.Fig. 15.15. "O""O" SettingSetting


   PullPull threadthread throughthrough tensiontension discsdiscs toto testtest amountamount     ofof nono tension.tension. ThenThen advanceadvance oneone holehole toto rightright toto givegive
ofof tensiontension onon threadthread atat "O""O" position.position. AtAt thisthis pointpoint    minimumminimum tensiontension atat zerozero position.position.
therethere shouldshould bebe aa slightslight pullpull onon thethe threadthread toto indicateindicate
                                      TOTO OBTAINOBTAIN INGREASEDINGREASED TENSIONTENSION RANGERANGE
therethere isis aa minimumminimum tensiontension whichwhich graduallygradually increasesincreases
withwith thethe turningturning ofof thumbthumb nutnut AA toto thethe right,right, providingproviding     OnOn somesome occasionsoccasions aa slightslight increaseincrease inin maximummaximum
  aa fullfull rangerange ofof tensionstensions withwith oneone revolutionrevolution ofof thethe    rangerange ofof needleneedle threadthread tensiontension maymay bebe requiredrequired forfor
thumbthumb nut.nut. IfIf thethe pullpull isis tootoo strongstrong forfor aa minimumminimum      specialspecial work.work.
tension,tension, presspress inin dialdial CC toto disengagedisengage pinpin BB onon nutnut      TheThe additionaladditional tensiontension maymay bebe obtainedobtained byby usingusing
fromfrom dial,dial, andand resetreset pinpin inin nextnext holehole toto leftleft ofof previousprevious     tensiontension indicatorindicator No.No. 125415125415 andand tensiontension springspring No.No.
setting.setting. RepeatRepeat thisthis adjustmentadjustment untiluntil aa pointpoint isis reachedreached    4586945869 ifif thethe machinemachine isis notnot equippedequipped withwith thesethese parts.parts.




             TOTO REMOVEREMOVE ANDAND DISASSEMBLEDISASSEMBLE NEEDLENEEDLE THREADTHREAD TENSIONTENSION


  TurnTurn thumbthumb nutnut AA overover toto thethe leftleft (counter-clock-(counter-clock-    removeremove it.it. ThenThen removeremove tensiontension partsparts fromfrom studstud asas
wise)wise) untiluntil itit stops.stops. ToTo separateseparate pinpin BB inin thumbthumb nutnut AA    shownshown inin Fig.Fig. 16.16.
fromfrom dialdial C,C, presspress inin dial,dial, unscrewunscrew thumbthumb nutnut andand
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TOTO REASSEMBLEREASSEMBLE ANDAND REPLACEREPLACE NEEDLENEEDLE THREADTHREAD TENSIONTENSION

          PlacePlace tensiontension partsparts onon thethe studstud asas illustrated:illustrated:         3.3. TensionTension springspring mustmust bebe mountedmounted soso thethe halfhalf coilcoil
                                                                          atat frontfront isis inin thethe lowerlower position.position.        1.1. MakeMake suresure tensiontension discsdiscs areare freefree ofof oil,oil, gritgrit oror))
          grease.grease.

        2.2. IndicatorIndicator mustmust showshow plusplus andand minusminus signssigns atat toptop      4.4. FingerFinger ofof slottedslotted washerwasher mustmust pointpoint upwardupward toto
             forfor operator'soperator's convenience.convenience.                                                                      actact asas aa stopstop forfor dial.dial.


        060060




                                                                                                    Е24740Е24740


                                                    Fig.Fig. 16.16. NeedleNeedle ThreadThread TensionTension AssemblyAssembly
))
                  TOTO ADJUSTADJUST THETHE THREADTHREAD TAKE-UPTAKE-UP SPRINGSPRING

   STROKESTROKE OFOF SPRINGSPRING                                        TOTO SETSET TAKE•UPTAKE•UP SPRINGSPRING STROKESTROKE

     TheThe take-uptake-up springspring J,J, Fig.Fig. 1717 shouldshould bebe atat restrest      LoosenLoosen setset screwscrew L,L, Fig.Fig. 17.17.
     againstagainst itsits stopstop asas thethe pointpoint ofof thethe needleneedle entersenters thethe     RotateRotate tensiontension studstud ZZ clockwiseclockwise withwith aa screwdriverscrewdriver
    fabric.fabric.                                                         (turning(turning wholewhole tensiontension assembly)assembly) toto completecomplete itsits actionaction
                                                 over.over.
                                                    RotateRotate tensiontension studstud ZZ counter-clockwisecounter-clockwise withwith aa
    WhenWhen adjustingadjusting take-uptake-up spring,spring, thethe strokestroke                                                             screwdriverscrewdriver (turning(turning wholewhole tensiontension assembly)assembly) toto com-com-
   mustmust bebe adjustedadjusted first,first, thenthen followedfollowed byby thethe     pleteplete itsits actionaction earlier.earlier.
    pressurepressure ofof thethe spring.spring.                                                         SecurelySecurely tightentighten setset screwscrew L.L.





                                         G8G8



                           Fig.Fig. 17.17. SettingSetting                                                    Fig.Fig. 18.18. RemovingRemoving
                      StrokeStroke ofof springspring                                        TensionTension AssemblyAssembly

                                    1919
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PRESSUREPRESSURE OFOF SPRINGSPRING                                      InsertInsert assemblyassembly intointo machinemachine withwith plusplus andand minusminus

                                                         signssigns ofof indicatorindicator inin uppermostuppermost positionposition andand holdhold ten-ten-

                                                            sionsion assemblyassembly inin place.place.
   TensionTension onon threadthread take-uptake-up springspring shouldshould bebe justjust
  sufficientsufficient toto taketake upup slackslack ofof needleneedle threadthread untiluntil needleneedle     MoveMove looploop ofof springspring toto thethe leftleft soso thatthat itit maymay comecome
 pointpoint reachesreaches thethe fabric.fabric.                                     toto restrest againstagainst itsits stop.stop.





          1.81.8

                                   E25055E25055                E25056E25056

                     Fig.Fig. 19.19. ShowingShowing                                                                                      Fig.Fig. 20.20. SpringSpring
                     SpringSpring                                                  LeftLeft ofof CenterCenter LineLine



   ExcessiveExcessive pressurepressure willwill causecause fabricfabric toto cordcord (draw)(draw)       SecurelySecurely tightentighten screwscrew G8,G8, Fig.Fig. 18.18.
 duringduring satinsatin stitchingstitching oror widewide bightbight zigzagzigzag stitching.stitching.
                                                             TestTest pressurepressure ofof springspring toto determinedetermine ifif aa finerfiner adjust-adjust-
                                            mentment isis needed.needed.
    InsufficientInsufficient pressurepressure willwill causecause loopinglooping oror threadthread
breakage.breakage.                                  NOTE:NOTE: IfIf moremore pressurepressure isis required,required, movemove smallsmall tailtail
                                                                   ofof springspring L8L8 intointo thethe nextnext studstud slotslot toto thethe
                                                                           rightright ofof previousprevious setting.setting.

                                                                                                     IfIf lessless pressurepressure isis required,required, movemove smallsmall tailtail ofof springspringTOTO ESTABLISHESTABLISH MINIMUMMINIMUM PRESSUREPRESSURE OFOF SPRINGSPRING
                                                L8L8 intointo thethe nextnext studstud slotslot toto thethe leftleft ofof previousprevious setting.setting.

   TurnTurn screwscrew G8,G8, Fig.Fig. 1818 counter-clockwisecounter-clockwise andand   NOTE:NOTE: AA veryvery finefine adjustmentadjustment forfor pressurepressure ofof thethe
removeremove tensiontension assembly.assembly.                                        springspring cancan bebe hadhad byby looseningloosening screwscrew G8,G8,
                                                                 Fig.Fig. 1818 andand turningturning completecomplete assemblyassembly
                                                                clockwiseclockwise toto increaseincrease pressurepressure andand counter-counter-
   slideslide springspring onon tensiontension assemblyassembly soso thatthat tailtail ofof
                                                                 clockwiseclockwise toto decreasedecrease pressure.pressure.
 springspring L8,L8, Fig.Fig. 1919 isis inin oneone ofof thethe studstud slotsslots andand toptop
 ofof springspring J,J, isis justjust leftleft ofof centercenter lineline onon indicatorindicator inin              RetightenRetighten screwscrew G8G8 andand testtest springspring pressurepressure
 thethe areaarea betweenbetween dotteddotted lines,lines, illustratedillustrated inin Fig.Fig. 20.20.            byby sewing.sewing.





                                     2020
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