Film cameras
Polaroid Land Camera Model 95A, 95B, 700 User manual
User manual for Polaroid Land Camera Model 95A, 95B, 700. 21 pages in English. Read the original PDF, download or print a copy without registration.
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Document details
- Brand
- Polaroid
- Model / document
- Polaroid Land Camera Model 95A, 95B, 700
- Document type
- User manual
- Language
- English
- Pages
- 21
- File size
- 3.0 MB
- Category
- Film cameras
- Document date
- Not specified in catalog
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Page 3 · Read text
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KNOWYOURCAMERA
Opening and closing . . . 3
The exposure controls. . 4
Aiming and focusing. . 4
How to hold the camera. . . . . . 5
Focusing the 700 6
Free camera modification 6
Choosing the film 6
OPERATIONS
Loading the fiIm 7
H o w t o m a k eu p i " t , r r " .. : . . . . . 1 0
How to coat prints L2
Exposure meters 13
3000 speedfilm outdoors 13
Time exposures 13 Rear view shows: (A) film tab in tab slot; (B) cutter bar; (C) back door lock; (D) Flash pictures 14 film release switch. Model 700 also has The winkJight 15 rangefinder housing shown below. Picture troubles 16
MISCELLANEOUS
Care of the camera. . . . 20
Print care. 20
Copies and enlargements 20
Repair stations 20
MODEL 700: This camera has an auxiliary
rangefinder to help you get correct focus
and sharp pictures. Use of this device is
explained on page 6. Except for the range-
finder, the camera operates in exactly the
same way as the N{odel 95A.
PI-EASE
Do yourself a big favor and spend a few tion. There is no charge for this work
minutes reading this booklet before you (paee 6).
take your first picture. Provided that it has not been damaged,
Model 95A cameras were manufactured your modified camera will be capable of
from 1954 to 1957: Model 700 cameras making excellent biack-and-white and
from 1955 to Ig57: Model 95B cameras color pictures.
from 1957 to 1960. This booklet has been Because the Polaroid Land camera is the
specially prepared for new owners of used only camera in the world that develops its
cameras of those rnodels. own pictures, it is unlike any other camera
The Model 95A, 95B, and 700 cameras you have ever owned or used. We urge you
were almost identical in construction and to read the instructions carefully, not be-
with minor variations one set of instruc- cause the camera is difficult to use - it
tionswill do for all models. Where necessary, isn't - but because it's different.
special instructions have been included. A few minutes now with this booklet,
In the time since your camera was manu- practicing the operation of. the camera
factured, there have been important before loading it ivith film, will help you to
changes in Polaroid Land films and im- get good pictures on your first roll.
provements in camera design to assure If you want more information about any
better results with those films. For best of the material in this booklet, or about
results with current films, certain modifi- your ca:mera, film, or other equipment,
cations should be made in your camera by rvrite to Customer Service. Polaroid Cor-
an authorized Polaroid camera repair sta- poration, Cambridge, Mass. 02139.
2View original page 3Page 4 · Read text
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KNOWYOURCAMERA
Get acquainted with the camera without
any film in it. First, try opening and closing
the camera a few times.
How to open the camera
Press the front cover latch (arrow) and
the cover will pop open part way. Open the
cover fully so the braces click into place
and lock it open rigidly. Digitally signed by
Grip the metal bracket directly under mike mikeDN:o=orphancameras,cn=mikebutkus butkus,the shutter housing and start to pull the ou=29,
org, c=USshutter slide out. butkus email=mike@butkus. Date:
Pull the slide out all the wzy, until it 10:19:182017.10.31-04'00'
locks firmly in place. If the slide is not
pulled out all the way and locked, pictures
will be blurred.
How to close the camera
Always set the distance scale to the
Infinity mark (as shown) before closing the
front cover. If it's not set to Infinity you
may not be able to close the front cover,
and if you do get it closed it may jam so
that you can't open it.
Also, be sure that the front viewfinder
is pushed down before closing the camera.
Squeeze the slide release (black piece)
and push the shutter slide all the way back
into the camera body.
To close the front cover, hold the camera
as shown, press the side braces with both
thumbs to unlock them and then push the
front cover closed.View original page 4Page 5 · Read text
www.orphancameras.com The exposure controls Turn the wheel (A) on the shutter housing; note that the numbers in the window (B) change. On the Model 95A and 700 these are called the exposure numbers and they run from 1 to 8. On the Model 958 they are called EV numbers and run from 10 to 17. Except that they are nine numbers higher, the EV numbers on the Model 95B have exactly the same function as the exposure numbers on the 95A and 700. Number 8 (EV 17) sets the smallestlens opening and fastest shutter speed, for use in brightest sunlight. Turn to ft7 (EV 16) and you give twice as much exposureas at #8 (EV 17); turn to ff6 (EV 15) and you double the exposureagain, and so on. At #L (EV 10), which is for dimmest light, you are giving l28X as much exposure as you did at #8 (EV 17). When you turn from a lower number to the next higher number you cut the expo- sure in half each time ff7 gives half the exposure of. fr6, for example, and EV 16 gives half the exposureof EV 15). Use high numbers (6, 7, 8 or 15, 16, L7) for subjects in bright light; use low num- bers for subjects in dim light. On page 10 we'll explain how you pick the right expo- sure number or EV number. For all pictures except time exposures the I/B switch (D) must be set to "I" (Instantaneous, or snapshot). How to make a time exposure is explained on page 13. Aiming and focusing Flip up the rear finder. This is only half of the viewing system; you also need the front finder. The front finder is made up of two wire frames. Pull it out all the way, by the outer frame. This will also raise the smaller. inner wire frame. Look through the rear finder; you should see the complete outer frame of the front finder. This finder setting is accurate for distant scenicsand other subjects as close as about 8 ft. However, for subjects closer than 8 ft. the front finder should be reset (paee5).View original page 5
Page 6 · Read text
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Subjects closer than 8 ft. may be partly
cut off in the picture unless you adjust the
front finder.
On the back of the shutter housing you
will find the markings 4, 8, INF. Push in on
the inner wire frame until the end of the
wire frame (arrow) is at the desired dis-
tance mark (4 ft. here).
The camera actually records slightly
more of the scene than you see in the view-
finder to allow for small errors in centering
and focusing.
Estimate the distance carefully. Then
press down the lever and slide it along the
distance scale until the notch is opposite
the estimated footage (4 f.t. here). For
very accurate settings, measure distance
from the subject to the front of the lens.
How to hold the camera
Pass your left hand underneath the
carrying strap and get a firm grip on the
eamera body. Grasp the front of the cam-
era with your right hand, leaving the index
finger free to press the shutter release.
Your hold will be steadier if you can rest
the calnera on your right shoulder and
against your nose. Get your eye close to the
viewfinder but don't press on it.
Gently squeeze the shutter release lever
until you hear a distinct click. Don't poke
it or jab at it.
For vertical pictures the grip is the same
as for horizontals. In fact, it's easiest to
first hold the camera correctly horizontally
and then just shift to the vertical position.View original page 6Page 7 · Read text
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Focusingthe 700
The rangefinder on the Model 700 tells
you the distance in feet from the camera to
the subject - it does not set the camera
for that distance.
To learn how the rangefinder works, do
the following: First, set the rangefinder
wheel to the Infinity mark (". ). Now look
through the little window - you will see
a bright spot in the center. Aim the bright
spot at a nearbY subject (a lamP, for
example, 4-5 f.t. away).
You should see two images of the lamp
in the bright spot. Turn the wheel until
the images come together to make one im-
age; the rangefinder now is focused. Look
at the footage markings to get the right
distance and set the distance scale.
FREECAMERAMODIFIGATI()N Out of focus ln focus
Open the back of your eamera (as shown
on page 7) and compare it with the photo.
If your camera does not have the guide
rails (arrows) it should be modified with-
out delay. There is no charge.
Pack your camera carefully and ship it
insured to the nearest authorized Polaroid
camera repair station (page 20) or ask your
dealer to handle the shiPPing.
Enclose a note stating: "Install tracking
guides." Re sure to include your name and
address, clearly printed or typed. Also ask
for an estimate of the cost of any repairs
that the repair station may find necessary.
CHOOSINGA FILM
For most black-and-white snapshots
you'll get best results with Type 42 (200
speed) film. Use it for both daylight and
flash pictures. For information about using
3000 speed fllm, see page 13.
Your camera can make excellent color
pictures. Ask your dealer for the free
booklet about making color pictures with
roll fllm cameras, or write to Customer
Service, Polaroid Corporation, Cambridge,
Mass. 02139 for the booklet.
(rView original page 7Page 8 · Read text
www.orphancameras.com LOADINGTHEFILM We suggest that you start with a roll of Type 421200 speed) film. Hold the camera as shown and swing the back latch lever as far as it will go. The back will open slightly. Don't open it all the way yet; first lay the camera on a clean, flat surface, front dowtr. Open the outer back and lay it flat. Then open the inner back panel. If there is a spool in the negative film chamber (A) remove it. The larger chamber (B) is for the positive print roll. Examine the steel rollers (C) carefully. They are the heart of the cleveloping -""h- anism. The negative and positive materials pass between these rollers, which squeeze the developer pods and distribute the de- veloper chemicals evenly between the nega- tive and positive sheets. It's important to keep these rollers clean. Use a damp cloth to remove any specks or deposits that may appear on the rollers as the camera is used. Inspect the rollers each time vou load a film. To open the foil bag, hold it as shown, tear the top right corner open (there's a thumb grip mark there) and pull down to rip the bag open. Don't grab the film around the middle when trying to open the foil bag. You may crush one or more developer pods and ruin some of your pictures.View original page 8
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www.orphancameras.com Loading (cont.) The two rolls that make ob tft" film are wrapped in a paper leader. Open the seal that holds the leader closed, unwrap the leader, and hold the large white positive roll and the smaller negative roll as shown. Be careful not to break the clear tape seals (arrows)on the two rolls. If you do, you're likely to have seriouspicture troubles later. Insert the two rolls in the chambersnext to the bellows.If the larger one sticks, push it in only by the edges; don't press the middle of the roll. Hold the leader straight up (but don't pull hard) and clos.ethe inner back panel. The steel roller should be about rAin. from the small holes in the leader. Lay the paper leader flat betrveen the metal guides (arrows) on the inner back. Check that the white paper is smooth and flat (A). If there is a deep crease at (A) it means that part of the leader has been tucked into the positive roll chamber; open the inner back again and carefully lift the leader straight up to remove the crease in the leader. Close the outer back; be sure that the leader stays between the metal guides. 1fu Raise the camera and hold it as shown. Swing the back latch lever as far to the left as it will go, squeezethe back cover tightly shut, and then swing the lever back all the way to the right. Check both sides of the outer back to be sure that they are fully closedand locked. 8View original page 9
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IMPORTANT: Hold the camera as
shown, left hand under the strap and
gripping the top of the camera securely,
but flexibly enough to let it line up with
the direction of your pull when you start
to pull the leader out of the camera. Keep
your thumb off the film release switch.
If you hold the camera in any other way,
you are apt to pull the leader out at an angle
and damage the film.
Pull the leader straight out of the
camera until it stops firmly. I)on't be sur-
prised if you seem to be pulling out a lot of
paper on this first pull. You must pull out
the entire leader (about 15 in.) before the
film stops, but it will stop automatically.
Raise the cutter bar; you should see the
word STOI' (bottom photo). If not, keep
pulling until you see it.
Don't touch the film release switch while
pulling the leader. If you do, the film won't
stop automatically and you'll waste a con-
siderable part of the roll.
Now change your grip on the camera.
You can press the strap end against your
body as you hold the cutter bar tightly
closed with the left thumb and tear the
leader off with your right hand. trlease dis-
card the waste paper carefully - d6n'[ [s
a litterbug.
The most recently manufactured Model
958 cameras have a locking cutter bar;
once it's snapped into place you needn't
hold it down. To unlock the cutter bar. lift
the plastic strip.
Tearing off the leader against the cutter
bar leaves a small white tab, which you will
pull later to develop your first picture.
Never tear ofr the leader with the cutter bar
open. If you do, there'll be no tab for you to
pull to develop your first picture.
The camera is now ready for the first
picture. You can always tell what number
picture is ready by lifting the cutter bar
and looking at the tab.View original page 10Page 12 · Read text
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Get ready to pull: Turn so as to shield the
camera from direct sunlight. Hold the
camera as shown,left hand under the strap
and gripping the top of the camera securely,
but flexibly enough to let it line up with the
direction of your pull when you start to
pull the tab.
With your right hand, Iift the cutter bar
and get a tight hold on the tab with your
thumb and several fingers.
If you hold the camera in any other way,
you are apt to pull the tab out at an angle
and damage the film.
Pull the tab to start development: Keep
your finger away from the film release
switch . Pull the tab straight out with a
single smooth, decisive motion. This starts
development, so begin timing as soon as
you pull the tab.
Pull it about as hard and rapidly as you
might to pull down a window shade; not
hard enough to pull the shade off the roll
(or the film off the spool) but not slowly
and hesitantly either. The film will stop
automatically.
If the tab will not pull easily, flip the
film release switch again (and don't touch
it afterwards).
If it's still balky, the film may be stick-
ing to the inside of the back door. Open
and close the door and pull again.
Wait the recommended development time:
While waiting, hold down the cutter bar
and tear off the excess paper. (If you have
a Model 95B with locking cutter bar you
need not hold it down; once pressed down
it locks in position.) Please discard the
paper carefully - don't be a litterhug.rI
Check the film instruction sheet for exact
development time: This time varies for dif-
ferent types of film, and even the develop-
ment time for a particular film may change.
Temperature also affects developing times,
so be sure to get the correct development
recommenddtions.
Open the door: When the development
time is up, slide the latch of the back door
and open the door.
l lView original page 12Page 13 · Read text
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Removethe print: Get your fingernail un=
der the triangular cutout and lift the print
out carefully. Notice that it's lifted out
straight, not at an angle.
Don't let the print fall back on the damp
negative.
Separatethe print by tearing the precut
edge that holds it to the rest of the roll.
Close and lock the back door.
Straighten black-and-white prints: Re-
move the curl by drawing the print face up
over a straight edge, as shown. DON'T do
this with color prints; if you do you will
crack and damage the surface.
Coatblack-and-whiteprints: Lay the print
face up on a clean, smooth, disposablesur-
face, such as a piece of paper. Apply the
Print Coater along the entire length of the
print, including edges, borders, and cor-
ners, with 6 or 8 overlapping strokes. For
the last two or three pictures in each roll,
pressthe coater hard against the tab end of
the print (not right on the image) for a
moment to releaseextra liquid, then spread
the liquid smoothly acrossthe print.
If a clean, flat coating surface is not
available, flatten the film box and store the
prints in it until you get to a more con-
venient location.
DON'T coat color prinls
T2View original page 13Page 14 · Read text
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EXPOSUREMETERS
The photo at right identifies the different
models of Polaroid photoelectric exposure
meters that have been marketed over the
years. Only (1), the #625, is available new
and this is the one to buy if you need a
meter. The others are discontinued models
but they may turn up in used camera kits.
They arc: (2) #620; (3) PR-23A or PR-23B;
(4) PR-23; (5) PR-22. For information
about any of these meters write to Cus-
tomer Service, Polaroid Corporation, Cam-
bridge, Mass. 02139.
No matter which of the above meters
you have, keep in mind that it measures
the brightness of the iight reflected from
the subject. Therefore, when taking a read-
ing be sure to bring the meter close enough
to the most important part of your subject
so that the meter's electric eye "sees" only
the subject and not the background. How-
ever, don't come so close as to cast a
shadow on the subject.
3(l(l(lSPEEDFILMOUTDOORS
Type 47 (3000speed)film can't be used
in your camera in daylight without special -!3
accessories.You needthe 45 Light Reducer, fiwhich fits over the lens; then you use the
same exposures as for Type 42 film. lT
Cameras that do not have an "L" before
the serial number (on the folding foot un- t3
der the front cover of the camera) must be {3e"fitted with light seals.To get these and the
43 Light Reducer, see your Polaroid Land
camera dealeror write to Customer Service,
Polaroid Corporation, Cambridge, Mass.
02139.
HOWTOMAKEA TIMEEXPOSURE
Set the I/B srvitch to "8" and the
shutter will stay open as long as the
shutter release is held down. The I/B
switch automatically returns to "I" after
each exposure.Place the camera on a firm
support. For best results, screw a cable re-
ieaseinto socket (A). Exposures must be
arrived at by trial and error. If the picture
comesout too dark, increasethe exposure
time; if too light, decreaseit.
13View original page 14Page 15 · Read text
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FLASHPICTURES
Your camera has synchronization for
flashbulbs at all exposure numbers (or EV
numbers) and for electronic flash at #4
through #8 (EV 13 through EV 17).
The flashgun wire connection is on the
front of the sliutter housing. Guide the
wire under the bellows and around the
shutter so it can't block the Iens.
The electronic flash connection is on top
of the shutter housing. A special adapter
cord (Polaroid #490) is needed. This is
shown at f.ar right.
If a used flashgun came with your cam-
era be sure it has fresh batteries. The
Polaroid BC flashgun rt202 is the correct
one for your camera. (There were also
similar guns, but gray to match the IVIodel
700 camera, designated ff240.) It is shown
with its diffuser for close work and bounce
flash bracket #290. IJse Press 25 or No. 5
bulbs for black-and-white; Press 258
(blue) or No. 58 (blue) for color.
The rt202 flashgun can be used for either
direct flash (far right) or bounce flash
(below) with the gun aimed at a white
ceiling 7-9 ft. high. Bounce flash is prefer-
able for all black-and-white snapshots in
average sized rooms with white ceilings of
ordinary height.
The film instruction sheet contains com-
plete, accurate exposure guides for flash
pictures. It's most important to estimate
correctly the distance in feet from the
camera to the subject, as the flash exposure
guides are based on the camera-to-subject
distance.
If 5'su1 camera is numbered 1-8, foilow
the exposure recommendations printed in
black; if it's numbered 10-17 follow the
exposure reeommendations in red.
Direct flash pictures with Typ e 42 fiIm
and Press 25 bulbs will be overexposed if
the subject is closer than 6-7 ft., even at
18. To cut down the light the equivalent
of two exposure numbers, place the
diffuser over the flash gun shield.
Don't try to make flash pictures of your
subjects at ordinary distances with Type 47 SHUTTERSETTINGSFORTYPE42 ROLLS
(3000 speed) film unless the 4S Light For No. 5 oror PressPres: 2525 FFloshbulbsloshbulbson
Redueer (described on page 13) is over the Dist. (Feet) 3t/z 4 5 6 8 l 0 l 5 20
Iens. Then use the exposure guide for 200 DIRECTFLASH l 6 x l 6 * 1 7 1 7 l 6 r6 t 5 1 4
speed fllm. 7+ 7* I I 7 7 6 5
l 3 l 2 BOUNCEFLASH <--tf-+ 4 3
*Use diffuser over flosh gun.
l4View original page 15Page 17 · Read text
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PICTURETROUBLES
We hope that no single Polaroid Land you are faced with one or more of these
camera owner ever encounters all the kinds difficulties, stop and carefully decide what
of picture taking and camera operation you must do to correct the trouble and
troubles shown on these pages. However, if prevent it from recurring.
All black: No light reached the film. I'er-
haps you made only one exposure but
pulled two tabs in a row. The flash sync
may be inoperative; the shutter may be
broken. If some faint details are visible,
perhaps you used a high exposure number
(EV 16 or EV 17) in dim light where you
should have usedEV 10 or EV 11 Check
all your picture taking steps. 'f'est the
shutter, without film if possible.
All white: No image or a few barely
visible details. If the picture area has an
overall cream tint with china white bor-
ders, the film developed correctly bpt the
negative was greatly overexposed or was
light struck in some way.
You may have left the back door open
while pulling the tab. Or perhaps the cam-
era back was opened after loading with
film. If there are faint details, perhaps you
used EV 10 or EV 11 in bright sunlight
when you should have set EV 16 or EV 17.
Or, you were using 3000 speed film when
you thought the camera was loaded with
Type 42 (200 speed) film.
Or, the I/B switch may have been at
"8" instead of at "I".
EXPOSURE,ilATURALLIGHT
Too dark: IJnderexposed, probably be-
cause the camera was set incorrectly.
Follow the exposure guide in the film in-
struction sheet or use an exposure meter.
To make a lighter picture of the same
subject in the same lighting conditions,
turn the exposure control to the next
lower number.
Too light: Overexposed, probably due to
setting the camera incorrectly. Follow the
exposure guide in the film instruction
a +.,ltlsheet. To make a darker picture of the
same subject in the same lighting condi-
tions, turn the exposure control to the next
higher nurnber.
16View original page 17Page 18 · Read text
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EXPOSURE,FLASHORWINK-LIGHT
Too dark: Moderately underexposed.
Either you misjudged the distance in feet
from camera to subject, or you set the ex-
posure control to the wrong number. Fol-
low the flash exposure guides in the film
instruction sheet, or the wink-light ex-
posure guide on the back of the wink-light.
Or, use the same exposure setting but come
closer to the subject.
T o o l i g h t : M o d e r a t e l y o v e r e x p o s e d . "fi?
Either you misjudged the distance in feet 6 .
from camera to subject or you set the ex- +gr#'
posure control to the wrong number. Fol- ;ffi $"low the flash exposure guides in the film * + r
instruction sheet or the wink-light exposure
guide on the back of the wink-light. To
make a darker picture of the same subjectfrom the same distance, turn the exposure *;-**ffi
control to the next higher number.
Burned out: Heavily overexposed even
though the exposure control was set to a k-'*# "t"l
high number. You were too close for direct
flash. Or you tried to use Type 47 (3000
speed) film for direct flash. Follow the ffi__'&direct flash exposure guides in the film
instruction sheet. Use the flash diffuser for
pictures of close subjects. Don't use 3000
speed film for direct flash.
This can also happen with Type 47 film
and the wink-light. Follorv the exposure
guide on the back of the wink-light.
FUZZYPICTURES
,ly;.-WS ,; ., Most camera or subject: Movement, likely Lr&sH# dii,affi "* #
ffi . "ee# : *d when the shutter dim light happen into
moves slowly, but can happen even in
bright sunlight. Squeeze the shutter re-
lease, don't poke at it. If your subject is
moving around rapidly, wait for or ask for
less movement while you shoot.
Be particularly careful when shooting
wink-light pictures. These are usually
made at very slow shutter speeds.
Subject blurred: If everything else in the
picture is sharp and the subject did not
move, you had the camera set for the wrong
distance. Estimate the distance in feet
carefully and set the distance scale. For
most accuracy with close subjects, measure
from the front of the lens.View original page 18Page 19 · Read text
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TABPULLINGERRORS
Marks like these: This is called mistrack-
ing, and is caused by pulling the tab out at
an angle instead of straight out of the slot.
With moderate mistracking (top photo)
you may save some of the remaining ex-
posures by pulling the remaining tabs very
straight. Once severe mistracking gets
started (right) the rest of the roll probably
will be ruined.
Pull the tab only as shown on page 11.
If your camera doesn't have the tracking
guide rails shown on page 6, have this free
modiflcation done without delay.
Hesitation marks: You slowed down,
hesitated, or stopped in the middle of the
tab pull. Don't stop or hesitate while
pulling the tab. Pull it straight out of the
camera fairly rapidly, smoothly, in one
continuous motion, until the film stops
automatically.
Torn print roll: You pulled the tab too
strongly. When the film reached the stop,
the positive print roll was torn in half and
the print to be developed was dragged part
way out of the slot. When this happens,
throw away the rest of the film, clean the
back of the camera and the rollers. Pull the
tab less violently and follow the tab pulling
instructions on page 11.
Torn negative: Only part of the print is
developed and developer chemicals are
smeared over the rest and inside the cam-
era. The negative roll was torn in half in
some wzy, either due to an error in loading
or pulling the tab at an angle.
Discard the rest of the film. Clean the
rollers and the back of the camera with a
damp cloth. Follow the loading instruc-
tions carefully. Pull the tab straight. If
your camera doesn't have the tracking
guide rails shown on page 6, have this free
modification done.
1 RView original page 19Page 20 · Read text
www.orphancameras.com Film didn't stop: Usually caused by
touching the film release switch while
pulling the tab. Once you have releasedthe
film, keep your fingers away from the film
releaseswitch. If it happens when you're
not touching the release, the mechanism
may need to be repaired.
Partial development: If an irregularly
shaped section of the picture stays blank,
it means that the developer pod for that
picture was damaged in some way before
you developed the picture. Perhaps you
broke the pod during loading. NEVER
squeezethe roll of film. Follow the loading
instructions on page 7.
Fogged film: Heavy fogging from the
long edgesof the print towards the middle
is probably due to loading the camera in
bright sunlight, or breaking the negative
roll seal during loading, allowing the nega-
tive to partly unroll. Load film out of the
bright sun; don't break the seal on the
negative roll.
If you get a wedgeshapedfog strip at the
tab end of the print, the back door prob-
ably was unlatched when you pulled the
tab. If the door was wide open, the entire
print will have an even fog.
Dark stains: Causedby developer chemi-
cals that stick to the print. To avoid this,
lift the picture from the back of the cam-
era quickly; don't let it fall back on the
negative.
If you work fast you can get rid of the
stain. With color, wipe it off immediately
with a dry tissue; with black-and-white,
use the coater liberally, discard the coater
to avoid staining other prints.
-spots: Seriesof Usually two or three sets
of spots (pinkish in color prints). Caused
by dried developer or other dirt on the
steel rollers. Keep the rollers and the back
of the camera clean.View original page 20Page 21 · Read text
www.orphancameras.com
CAREOFTHECAMERA
Rollers: The two steel rollers must be POIAROIDCAMERAREPAIRSTATIOI{S
kept clean and free of foreign matter,
which can causeevenly spacedspots along PolaroidCALIFOR}IIACorporation(WestDiy,)
the length of the print. Before loading each San333Gabriel,WestMissionCaliforniaDrive91776
roll of film, turn the rollers slowly and re- R. M. Cudabac
move any foreign deposits.Use a moistened 678ASanFrancisco,HowardStreetCalifornia94105
cloth; scrape hard accumulations loose c0L0nAD0
with a matchstick or piece of card, never Rocky100MountainE. 20th AvenueCameraReDair
with anything metallic. Don't use your Denver,Colorado80205
fingernails, either. 0tsTntcTStraussPhoto-Technical0F corumBtAService
Interior: Foreign matter also may collect Washington,930 F Street.0.C.il.W.20004
on the black painted parts of the interior. FtontDr
Clean those parts in the same way as you SouthernPhoto-TechnicalService
clean the rollers. .i St.24 SecondPetersburg,Street.FloridaS. 33701
Lens: Keep both the back and the front EEORGIA
clean, and be particularly careful to avoid Pola_r-ojd1325LoganCorporationCircle,(SoutheastN.W. Div.)
fingerprihts. First blow off loose lint or Atlanta,GeorSia30318
dust, then breathe lightly on the surface to PolaroidrLUlt0rsCorporation(Midwestoiv.)
moisten it, gently wipe with a piece of 2041MelroseN. JanicePark,lllinoisAvenue60160
elean absorbent cotton or wadded facial International844 WestAdamsCameraStreetCorD. tissue. Don't scrub it! Chicago,lllinois60607
Lubrication: Don't try to oil any part of t(El{TUCl(Y
your camera. Camera445 SouthService,FifthInc.Street
Louisville.Kentucky40202
t0ulstAilA -Repair Murphy'sCamera
2320-22TulaneAvenue
Neworleans,Louisiana70llg
MASSACHUSETIS
folaroidCorporation(Factory)
640 MemorialDrive
PRINTCARE tlxl{EsoTACambridge,Massachusetts02139
NorthwestCameraRepairCo.
The Print Coater leaves a hard plastic 209Minneapolis,LqebArcadeMinnesota55402
coating on your print. If you bend or mtss0ulrl
creasecoated pictures, or write on the back NewtonPhotographicJ. oraperEquip.Services
S. Brentwood Blvd.of the print, you can crack this coating, 2915 (Brentwood), St. Louiswhich can Missouri631114 'W.rite lead to discoloration along the IIEW'ERSEY
cracks. only on the tab or on the MackCameraService
back along the edges. Union,1025CommerceNew JerseyAvenur07083
As with any photograph it is wise not to iEw Yonx
use paste or rubber cement to mount your Mack78 EastCameral3thServiceStreetof N.Y.
pictures. Impurities in many adhesives New York.NewYork 10003
may causethe pictures to discolor.Polaroid oilt0PolaroidCorporation(No.CentralDiv.)
Land prints may be stored safely in a Cleveland,4640 Manufacturing0hio 44135Road
Polaroid Picture Alburn, or in albums TEXAS
with separate transparent acetate pages. Polaroid8919DiplomacyCorporationRow(SouthwestDiv.)
Dallas,Texas75247
wAslill{GIot
Photo-Tronics
223 Westlakel{.
Seattle,Washington98109
CAl{ADA
PolaroidCorporationof Canada,Ltd.
24 PlywoodPlace
Torontol8
Fi
cllctAltD 1.COPIESANDENIARGEMENTS Polaroid (U.K.) Limited
0ueensway Excellent copies and enlargements of QueenswayHouse
. Hertfordshireblack-and-white and color pictures are Hattield
G€NilANYavailable from Polaroid Copy Service. An Polaroid
30order blank is iyrcludedin the film package. HolzhausenstrasseGMBH Frankfurt/ MainIt gives details of prices, sizes available,
mailing, etc.
Printed in U.S.A. Poloroid@View original page 21From the M. Butkus archive. Original publisher and archive notices are retained.
Check the model and edition against your equipment.
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